This is one of the best step by step, how to videos I've ever seen on just about any topic - and especially on Taco cab mount mods. Complete with measurements and potential pitfalls. Great video! Thanks!
You have to actually go off-roading to see the need for a BMC when you have 33s or bigger tires. If just driving around and never flexing the suspension at full lock in a either direction and you have a 4” lift, than yeah probably won’t need one. 🤦🏼♂️
"we will use a sawzall so we don't have to use a plasma which will throw sparks and potentially cause fire" proceeds to immediately use a 4.5" angle grinder 🤣 jokes aside very informative video! Will be doing this before going to 35s thanks!
Thanks for posting this video, just bought a set from Alpines website for an FJ Cruiser. Just went to 35’s and I am getting rubbing with a previous body mount chop already.
I’d also recommend to all you guys who actually off-road to trim your those fenders. I wish I trimmed mine sooner, I knocked both of my fenders out of place on just 34s now going to 35s and trimmed those guys.
The body mount actually serves as 2 purposes. In the event of a crash it stops the wheel from going into the cab and crushing driver. With the new one you lose the safety aspect
Yeah, the cab mount is also a safety feature. would def be effed if you got into a head on collision. Legs would be crushed. Look it up you’ll find crash test information. But whatever not like a serious off-roader that would actually do this mod is concerned about collision safety lol...
Wear rubber gloves when you’re using acetone. It takes 6 seconds once it hits your skin to get to your liver. If you’re like me you your liver takes enough abuse. Great video guys
Hmm. I'm wondering if you can just trim the stock body-mount really far and not replace it with a plate. That would basically give you the same clearance . . .
How do you take care of the odometer and speedometer issue when getting bigger tires?? That’s really my biggest concern with dealing with the dealer servicing and all that how do you keep the odometer correct??
Hypertech sells a kit that's plug and play. It connect behind your gauge cluster and is adjustable for any tire size using the software on your pc. I have one on my truck, adjusted it multiple times for 33's and currently for 35's
Perfect and good until you get in a car wreck and don’t have the full on cab mount to spare your legs but if bigger tires is worth turning you into LT. Dan then by all means go for it.
Body mounts in an accident, in a body on frame vehicle, is to minimize the amount of frame pulse in a crash that's transferred to the body from the frame, its the bushings not the metal frame bracket that transfer the energy. The tire's not coming busting thru the frame and into the cab
If I’m not mistaken,I noticed he welded down hand and down hand welds don’t produce as much strength as a vertical weld. I could be wrong but as a Ironworker I know when we weld out in the field with stick welding and if we weld down hand instead of a vertical the inspector would fail the weld if he saw this. Overall cool video👍
@Edward Anderson - Yup! You are not wrong bud. Welding downhill just makes a nicer smoother weld that can be easier to control the puddle with, and for the most part it is just a lazy approach to welding that part inplace.
You’re right but one thing I hate about welding up hill is you need to run a lot colder weld and obviously it won’t look as good for the finished product. Most customers are very judgmental on the way a weld looks. They don’t care if it’s right as long as it looks good. 🤦♂️
@@JYates89coupe Exactly. Very much like the folks that lift a truck with blocks and spacers just to "look" the part, but don't add any value to the function of lifting in the first place.
@@JYates89coupe I understand but 2 things,one who’s going to see that being it’s underneath the truck? 2nd,Me personally would rather have a weld look somewhat decent then to have that clip/body mount possibly snap and break off and god forbid that happens while in motion or operating the truck then you got a huuuuuge lawsuits your hands man and the risk of possibly injuring someone? Don’t get me wrong,I’m in no way shape or form going against what you’re saying bud,I’m just speaking in general? If you practice long and good enough you can make that vertical look like a down hand weld,I’ve welded vertical with my Mig and they’ve come out pretty damn good but then again there’s days I’m in the garage welding all day so that definitely helps!👍
Is there enough room to weld along the top outside portion of the new mount? I saw you did sides inside and out but couldnt tell if there was weld on the top inside and outside.
I’m not tryna hate or anything but I feel like the chopping it slightly & welding it up method is easier & faster too LoL but aye whatever floats your boats 🤙🏼
It doesn’t seem like the Tacoma frame and parts are built for 35” tires. Will be interesting to see what kinds of longevity impacts come from driving and handling 35” tires.
I need this done on my truck is this guy in Utah.? How much was the mounts. Labor. I would do it myself don't have a pro welder. Let me know thanks. They make these for the second gen..kit
I have a 1 inch Bilstein lift in the front and I was able to fit 35s with just a little bit of rubbing that eventually went away after the tread wore down a bit.
Similar to what we explained on this video. We were also barely rubbing. I am sure if we got a couple more miles on our tires the rubbing would go away. The rubbing will come again once you cycle through the suspension or when you try to park going into reverse by locking your tires fully. Not everyone is going to want to wait for they tires to slim down to fix their rubbing issue as it’s not an actual solution to the problem.
as long as the bushings fit it shouldn't be a problem. I could be wrong though. I'd reach out to Alpine -- he's super responsive. info@alpinedesignsoffroad.com
Looks easy enough, but dude... Where is the guard on that grinder? Zip disks don't fuck around when they shrapnel. Picked one out of a guy at works cheek, you could see it rubbing his molar. 15 stitches later
I have a 2019 Tacoma TRD OR. I have the BFG KO2s on my truck, but haven't changed the tire size. I was thinking about adding 33" or 35" tires sometime this year, but I'm concerned about the added stress to the CV axles and deeper components such as the front differential. Do people who add larger tires take this into consideration? Do you have recommendations to strengthen these components?
Canyon Overland A lot of people don’t take this into consideration no. A lot of modifications need to be done to make 35s and even 33s work properly but even then it does take a toll on the drivetrain. A 3” lift is basically essential to running big tires, which also requires a diff drop to correct the CV angles. Also you’ll be looking at UCA to improve caster and move the tire away from the cab. The biggest issue is power loss, you’ll ser need to re-gear to 5.29s. It’s not really worth it to me unless you have an almost 100% dedicated overland/off-road rig.
One approach is to do a thing and run till something gives. Upgrade that and do it again until the next part breaks. Eventually and with enough time and money spent, most items of limitation are worked out. However, it will come at a pretty heafty price. You either pay to play up front, or play and pay as you go. Unfortunately safety is compromised at every step of a modified vehicle. Not to say you can't reengineer the safety back into it, it just doesn't get done by most people that modify their vehicles. Your mileage may vary.
just adding tire size causes minimal stress on the CV, it only has to turn a bit more mass. lifts that causes more CV angles are the CV killers. RCV makes really strong CV, they claim it is stronger than solid axles. Then you have stronger pinion gears that even stock trucks break sometimes. There's no real solution, you can only beef up so much until something else breaks. CV are WAY easier and cheaper to replace and rebuild than diff gears. It can even be a trail repair if you bring a spare CV
Sorry if someone has asked this before. Did you do anything to the sway bar so it doesn’t rub after going to a true 35” tire? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Get a relocation kit, or completely remove it. Most people with tires this size remove the sway bar for better articulation, and tbh it doesn't really help with body roll all that much anyways.
Got the same king shocks and 275/70/17 BFG MUD TERRAIN for now and stoked Not feeling good about cutting the frame on my 50 thousand dollar truck till it’s at least paid for🤪
We sell the relocation kit yes, you can find it on out website here: tacomabeast.com/products/2016-2021-tacoma-front-cab-mount-relocation-kit?_pos=1&_sid=f709ee9ed&_ss=r
@@insaynbcr if you’re wanting to run a tire that size you have to get the clearance from suspension lift. Cutting the body to fit a tire that size may clear when on the ground and steering but during travel with your suspension articulating it’s going to give you issues.
@@insaynbcr I deleted a couple comments I made last night, I really do enjoy his channel. I had a little too much whiskey and got way to opinionated lol. I hate to see someone take shortcuts when doing mods, if your going to do do it right.
@@larrysmith5578 Agreed! Get the tire clearance with the lift and the right rim tire combo. Honestly if I ever decided to put 35" or bigger tires on my '17 Taco, I would probably just go full SAS with an actual steering box. Hopefully there is something out there that has the wheel speed sensors already integrated in the axle setup to keep the computer happy. With the larger tires and SAS would come larger brakes to help stop the mass. Currently I am joyfully rolling on 255/85R16 KM3 tires, 2.5" ADS lift with ICON billet UCA's. With both the stock LCAs and the ICON UCAs tuned pretty much at stock alignment still, I get the slightest touch upon full stuff with tires turned roughly 30% either way, on the thin pastic liner well above the unmoletested factory cab mounts. Once I get the Marlin weld in alignment reinforcement kit for the LCAs installed, I plan to take advantage of the ICON UCAs to work out the forward caster adjustment and camber correction they offer. This should effectively weed out any further contact down there.
Maybe? The guys that make these parts for us make them for other trucks, so if you want to place a custom tundra order feel free to reach out to our support team at support@tacomabeast.com and they’ll be happy to help you place it 🙌
Flimsy AF. At least box it in from the bottom by welding another plate. There is a reason why Toyota engineers designed that entire bracket as robustly as they did.
@@RE3B00T true I own the second generation for about 4 years. Made it a mission to try to chase the rest living in the midwest during the winter time found myself quite often playing whack-a-mole finding rust spots and fixing them LOL thank God the bed is composite
@@RE3B00T And where it is driven. For example, I have a '97 Taco with 245k+ miles on it and very very little rust anywhere on it. I live the normally wet PNW and play on the coastal sand/beach with it. Also have a '17 Taco with 31K miles and zero rust so far.
This is one of the best step by step, how to videos I've ever seen on just about any topic - and especially on Taco cab mount mods. Complete with measurements and potential pitfalls. Great video! Thanks!
Thanks Matt!
Get the relocation bracket, chop and plate is old school.
OSHA out here having a heart attack
I'm running 285s on my 2017 tacoma! 2.5 toytec 4 inches lift I didn't need to do a body mount chop! Thanks for the great content
Yeah, inches of lift should be more than enough to clear 33s
You have to actually go off-roading to see the need for a BMC when you have 33s or bigger tires. If just driving around and never flexing the suspension at full lock in a either direction and you have a 4” lift, than yeah probably won’t need one. 🤦🏼♂️
HiddenX lol 😂 no flexing suspension at the mall.
Not necessary for the mall.
Pics of your truck??
"we will use a sawzall so we don't have to use a plasma which will throw sparks and potentially cause fire" proceeds to immediately use a 4.5" angle grinder 🤣 jokes aside very informative video! Will be doing this before going to 35s thanks!
Thanks for posting this video, just bought a set from Alpines website for an FJ Cruiser. Just went to 35’s and I am getting rubbing with a previous body mount chop already.
If you relocate the cab mount, what stops the tire from smashing into the cab and turning you into Lt. Dan in the event of a collision?
Nothing.
Hopes and dreams
Anyone thinking about this should watch Tinkers Adventure
He mention about not having sparks using the saw. He end up using a wheel cutter and sparks fly everywhere 😂
Dope! Best of all it doesn’t seem like much work.
I’d also recommend to all you guys who actually off-road to trim your those fenders. I wish I trimmed mine sooner, I knocked both of my fenders out of place on just 34s now going to 35s and trimmed those guys.
That’s a good tip 🤙
Just coming into the video, I sure wish you could add some light so we can see what we’re looking at.
I think i am going to stick to my 32 inch falken at3. I love the flexibility and I ant rock crawling with Jks
Did you need to lift your truck at all? I have been looking at those falkens
@@mjwization No, you don't need a lift to run 265/70's 115t. If you go with an e-rated tire then you might get tight at full lock.
The body mount actually serves as 2 purposes. In the event of a crash it stops the wheel from going into the cab and crushing driver.
With the new one you lose the safety aspect
So you’re saying the 35” tire now can go into the cab?
@@currentlyhd7649 there’s no longer the cab mount there to help protect that area so yeah in case of an accident there’s less safety
It would have to be one EXTREME accident for that to happen.
Yeah, the cab mount is also a safety feature. would def be effed if you got into a head on collision. Legs would be crushed. Look it up you’ll find crash test information. But whatever not like a serious off-roader that would actually do this mod is concerned about collision safety lol...
Not to mention that the high strength steel in that area is now compromised from all of that welding due to annealing so strength is finished further.
Awesome video, I need to find someone trustable to do this for me in Ohio.
@DeadPixel I'm in Wilmington.
Great video. Still looks close but no rub.
Just a little 🤏
Any update on when you’ll release the video with the stock front bumper? Thank you for the content!
Damn I love this truck
Okay can we appreciate the beads this man was putting down. Those are some nice looking welds
He was a master at his craft for sure 🤙
Wear rubber gloves when you’re using acetone. It takes 6 seconds once it hits your skin to get to your liver. If you’re like me you your liver takes enough abuse. Great video guys
Thanks for the tip bro!
Very clean looking
3" lift with 33x12.5 tires on a 10" wide wheel with -24mm offset and im rubbing the cab mount when turning hard.
😳
I need to do this and some slight tub mods on my second gen, thanks for the information!
glad we could help!
Where this shop located at? I like the workmanship, very clean and seems a quality work. I'm changing mine to 35 soon. Thank you.
I can't watch your videos anymore! Too much envy on my end. ughhhh fucking badass trucks, *looks back to my boring stock tacoma*. SOMEDAY!
looks nice. Do you know what Toyota is going to add to the 2022 Tacoma trd pro?
Man, that was extensive!
Awesome work, great vid
Thanks bro!
I like how you never touch the 1st gen tacoma :(
Are you talking about SR5?....
@@jeffvanblommestein6767 no, he’s talking about the gen 1 series. Like the different 4Runner gens.
Hmm. I'm wondering if you can just trim the stock body-mount really far and not replace it with a plate. That would basically give you the same clearance . . .
You'd also literally chop a huge chunk off the support for the corner of the cab right under your body. Either rebuild it or don't do anything at all.
How do you take care of the odometer and speedometer issue when getting bigger tires?? That’s really my biggest concern with dealing with the dealer servicing and all that how do you keep the odometer correct??
Hypertech sells a kit that's plug and play. It connect behind your gauge cluster and is adjustable for any tire size using the software on your pc. I have one on my truck, adjusted it multiple times for 33's and currently for 35's
Perfect and good until you get in a car wreck and don’t have the full on cab mount to spare your legs but if bigger tires is worth turning you into LT. Dan then by all means go for it.
Body mounts in an accident, in a body on frame vehicle, is to minimize the amount of frame pulse in a crash that's transferred to the body from the frame, its the bushings not the metal frame bracket that transfer the energy. The tire's not coming busting thru the frame and into the cab
@@shoegum7362 what do the bushings transfer load into? What do you think happens when they're overloaded?
Im not sure if I want to go that big with my tires my 265 KO2 sit real nice!
If I’m not mistaken,I noticed he welded down hand and down hand welds don’t produce as much strength as a vertical weld. I could be wrong but as a Ironworker I know when we weld out in the field with stick welding and if we weld down hand instead of a vertical the inspector would fail the weld if he saw this. Overall cool video👍
But what if it was flipped when they were welding it ?
@Edward Anderson - Yup! You are not wrong bud. Welding downhill just makes a nicer smoother weld that can be easier to control the puddle with, and for the most part it is just a lazy approach to welding that part inplace.
You’re right but one thing I hate about welding up hill is you need to run a lot colder weld and obviously it won’t look as good for the finished product. Most customers are very judgmental on the way a weld looks. They don’t care if it’s right as long as it looks good. 🤦♂️
@@JYates89coupe Exactly. Very much like the folks that lift a truck with blocks and spacers just to "look" the part, but don't add any value to the function of lifting in the first place.
@@JYates89coupe I understand but 2 things,one who’s going to see that being it’s underneath the truck? 2nd,Me personally would rather have a weld look somewhat decent then to have that clip/body mount possibly snap and break off and god forbid that happens while in motion or operating the truck then you got a huuuuuge lawsuits your hands man and the risk of possibly injuring someone? Don’t get me wrong,I’m in no way shape or form going against what you’re saying bud,I’m just speaking in general? If you practice long and good enough you can make that vertical look like a down hand weld,I’ve welded vertical with my Mig and they’ve come out pretty damn good but then again there’s days I’m in the garage welding all day so that definitely helps!👍
Is there enough room to weld along the top outside portion of the new mount? I saw you did sides inside and out but couldnt tell if there was weld on the top inside and outside.
No. Only weld on top will be inside the mount. Obviously isn't access to weld the top of that portion
I’m not tryna hate or anything but I feel like the chopping it slightly & welding it up method is easier & faster too LoL but aye whatever floats your boats 🤙🏼
for sure it is easier and faster, but this gives it a little bit more room than any cab chop
Wow wow awesome big diferente
and the Wrangler/Gladiator can run 37 without mods... hopefully this pushes Toyota to create more wheel space in the 4th gen.
Dude we wish Toyota would listen to us. Totally agree!
It doesn’t seem like the Tacoma frame and parts are built for 35” tires. Will be interesting to see what kinds of longevity impacts come from driving and handling 35” tires.
We’ve had no issues since we switched to bigger tires but it would be interesting to see what happens, I’ve seen multiple people opt for the 35’s 🤙
Will the 2.75 icon lift kit be enough?
You’ll probably need to do a body chop still 🤙
I need this done on my truck is this guy in Utah.? How much was the mounts. Labor. I would do it myself don't have a pro welder. Let me know thanks. They make these for the second gen..kit
Is this done only on the driver side?
Both sides 🤙
My only concern is what an insurance company would say since I’m sure they would say you modified the frame.
Any shops do this in SoCal?
I have a 1 inch Bilstein lift in the front and I was able to fit 35s with just a little bit of rubbing that eventually went away after the tread wore down a bit.
Similar to what we explained on this video. We were also barely rubbing. I am sure if we got a couple more miles on our tires the rubbing would go away. The rubbing will come again once you cycle through the suspension or when you try to park going into reverse by locking your tires fully. Not everyone is going to want to wait for they tires to slim down to fix their rubbing issue as it’s not an actual solution to the problem.
Do you guys have any info on how this would hold up with the toytec 1" bodylift? Will this also work with energy suspension body mount poly bushings?
as long as the bushings fit it shouldn't be a problem. I could be wrong though. I'd reach out to Alpine -- he's super responsive. info@alpinedesignsoffroad.com
People have been swapping the bushings for the energy 9.4101G
Will this work with 33x10.5 ko2s, 17x8.5 -12 offset 4.38 inch back spacing wheels on stock suspension an a high clearance front bumper?
Should work 🤙
Looks easy enough, but dude... Where is the guard on that grinder? Zip disks don't fuck around when they shrapnel. Picked one out of a guy at works cheek, you could see it rubbing his molar. 15 stitches later
I have a 2019 Tacoma TRD OR. I have the BFG KO2s on my truck, but haven't changed the tire size. I was thinking about adding 33" or 35" tires sometime this year, but I'm concerned about the added stress to the CV axles and deeper components such as the front differential. Do people who add larger tires take this into consideration? Do you have recommendations to strengthen these components?
Canyon Overland A lot of people don’t take this into consideration no. A lot of modifications need to be done to make 35s and even 33s work properly but even then it does take a toll on the drivetrain. A 3” lift is basically essential to running big tires, which also requires a diff drop to correct the CV angles. Also you’ll be looking at UCA to improve caster and move the tire away from the cab. The biggest issue is power loss, you’ll ser need to re-gear to 5.29s. It’s not really worth it to me unless you have an almost 100% dedicated overland/off-road rig.
One approach is to do a thing and run till something gives. Upgrade that and do it again until the next part breaks. Eventually and with enough time and money spent, most items of limitation are worked out. However, it will come at a pretty heafty price. You either pay to play up front, or play and pay as you go.
Unfortunately safety is compromised at every step of a modified vehicle. Not to say you can't reengineer the safety back into it, it just doesn't get done by most people that modify their vehicles. Your mileage may vary.
just adding tire size causes minimal stress on the CV, it only has to turn a bit more mass. lifts that causes more CV angles are the CV killers. RCV makes really strong CV, they claim it is stronger than solid axles. Then you have stronger pinion gears that even stock trucks break sometimes. There's no real solution, you can only beef up so much until something else breaks. CV are WAY easier and cheaper to replace and rebuild than diff gears. It can even be a trail repair if you bring a spare CV
I dare you to remove the strut, Jack up the suspension all the way to the bump stops and see if everything clears
what a beast
Definitely more than one inch spacing, did your guy forget to lower back the body before welding
My dad has 32” on his 2rd gen Tacoma
Sorry if someone has asked this before. Did you do anything to the sway bar so it doesn’t rub after going to a true 35” tire? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Get a relocation kit, or completely remove it. Most people with tires this size remove the sway bar for better articulation, and tbh it doesn't really help with body roll all that much anyways.
How can I buy this kit???
Link in the description 🤙
If the state you live in know that you relocated your body mount you would fail inspection
Some states don't have inspections. Thanks, Florida!
So what is the total lift in inches on this truck? Is it 3.5 or is it 6?
It’s actually 2.5 🙌
Got the same king shocks and 275/70/17 BFG MUD TERRAIN for now and stoked
Not feeling good about cutting the frame on my 50 thousand dollar truck till it’s at least paid for🤪
how much does this usually cost for labor and all I'm rubbing and I'm at utah trying to get it fixed asap😔🥺💔
It really depends on the shop but it shouldn’t be more than $900-1k
@@tacomabeast thanks 💖🤘
Is there a reason for 35 inch tires, other than looks? If you're rock crawling I get it, but otherwise?
They make off roading way easier IMO but at the end of the day it’s just preference 🤷♂️
Do yall sell the hardware to do this ?
We sell the relocation kit yes, you can find it on out website here: tacomabeast.com/products/2016-2021-tacoma-front-cab-mount-relocation-kit?_pos=1&_sid=f709ee9ed&_ss=r
What’s the mpg with those tires
Around 15 🙌
Do you have a link for this part?
which one? 😂
I need help making my 3rd gen taco faster. I race my dads hummer and my brothers ford and get smoked. my truck doesn't even have a chance.
OVtune tune it, OVtune turbos, or supercharger, gear it, pedal commander
if you want something fast your in the wrong truck....it beats fords and hummers in the most important task...reliability
What size are the original stock tires?
30
Where is he located if we wanted to get the install done by him?
Why would you want to get an install done by him, this guy knows shit about suspensions he watches to Much RUclips!
What is your offset???
What shop in SoCal can do this?
JBM
Why is the factory mount so big?
It's over-engineered to absorb any tire displacing into the cab from a partial or full head on collision.
I would just buy a suspension lift, but if your broke this works. but if your buying new 35s there's now way your broke. So just buy the lift
Not everyone wants a 6 in lift tho 🤷♂️
Eye pro but know gloves and no guard on the angle grinder! He must have some hands of steel! safety 1st amigo!!!
I’ve been building 4x4s for twenty years and would never recommend doing this!!
Larry. I have zero reason to disagree with you, but I am curious what you would recommend instead. Can you clarify some?
@@insaynbcr if you’re wanting to run a tire that size you have to get the clearance from suspension lift. Cutting the body to fit a tire that size may clear when on the ground and steering but during travel with your suspension articulating it’s going to give you issues.
@@insaynbcr I deleted a couple comments I made last night, I really do enjoy his channel. I had a little too much whiskey and got way to opinionated lol. I hate to see someone take shortcuts when doing mods, if your going to do do it right.
@@larrysmith5578 Agreed! Get the tire clearance with the lift and the right rim tire combo. Honestly if I ever decided to put 35" or bigger tires on my '17 Taco, I would probably just go full SAS with an actual steering box. Hopefully there is something out there that has the wheel speed sensors already integrated in the axle setup to keep the computer happy. With the larger tires and SAS would come larger brakes to help stop the mass.
Currently I am joyfully rolling on 255/85R16 KM3 tires, 2.5" ADS lift with ICON billet UCA's. With both the stock LCAs and the ICON UCAs tuned pretty much at stock alignment still, I get the slightest touch upon full stuff with tires turned roughly 30% either way, on the thin pastic liner well above the unmoletested factory cab mounts. Once I get the Marlin weld in alignment reinforcement kit for the LCAs installed, I plan to take advantage of the ICON UCAs to work out the forward caster adjustment and camber correction they offer. This should effectively weed out any further contact down there.
@@larrysmith5578 Whiskey good! Cheers!
3 inches is unnecessary but yea...
You really think that dinky looking body mount is gonna hold up to the rough trails? I mean... I would have gone with a thicker gauge steel
We’ve had it for 4 months now, done a bunch of heavy trails and no problems.
Yo where you located and how much?????
Does the tundra have these kind of brackets ???
Maybe? The guys that make these parts for us make them for other trucks, so if you want to place a custom tundra order feel free to reach out to our support team at support@tacomabeast.com and they’ll be happy to help you place it 🙌
Flimsy AF. At least box it in from the bottom by welding another plate. There is a reason why Toyota engineers designed that entire bracket as robustly as they did.
Wait so I can fit 34’s with a body mount chop
And a 3inch lift
I’m first yeeeeeeeees
I just wanna run 33s haha
get some 255s, proven to fit with no modifications and no rubbing
👍😀🇵🇷🙏👊P.R.
You don't need to "really abuse" anything to get full suspension travel. 🙄
Title should been how to destroy your tacoma by relocating body mounts..
Huh?
If you are cutting the body of your truck to fit a tire you’re truly a novice!
share your knowledge with us then oh wise one!
Another gimmick..
How is this a gimmick 😂
Toyotas worst design... the location of that annoying bodymount... youd figure the 3rd gen Taco was fixed..uhhhh No.
It's crazy when you realize how much these Toyota's r u s t
All depends on the owner of the vehicle.
@@RE3B00T true I own the second generation for about 4 years. Made it a mission to try to chase the rest living in the midwest during the winter time found myself quite often playing whack-a-mole finding rust spots and fixing them LOL thank God the bed is composite
@@RE3B00T And where it is driven. For example, I have a '97 Taco with 245k+ miles on it and very very little rust anywhere on it. I live the normally wet PNW and play on the coastal sand/beach with it. Also have a '17 Taco with 31K miles and zero rust so far.
This episode is a waist of time you’re going backwards.
I’m first yeeeeeeeees