They could definitely be part of the solution. Hand pain and numbness on long rides can be a complicated problem to solve, so it's good to approach it from all angles. Ergonomics, isolation from vibration, bike fit variables, and physical condition all play a role. I've had dorsal wrist (back of wrist) problems since high school which make the tops and flat MTB handlebars problematic to use for very long. Strength training helps the most, but equipment helps a lot too. Any idea where your pain comes from?
I have 5 or 600 miles on my cruise control system and bar tape, and I wouldn't return to riding without them. They make riding so much more comfortable and have opened up several hand positions I hadn't used before. One word of caution, though: While on a tour, I needed to buy new gloves, and the only ones I could find had a suede-like material on the palms. That material rapidly caused the surface layer of the bar tape to start shredding. Other gloves I have have caused no problems.
The Shockstop system continues to be among my favorite components ever. I also still quite enjoy the drop grips, but the top grips didn't get put back on after I did some cable work. With the kitchen sink bars, just be sure they provide a narrow enough position for proper ergonomics. I had similar bars back in 2016, Origin 8 Gary, and the width was problematic for long days in the saddle. At 185cm and 92kg, I prefer 40cm bars for comfort. I can see the argument for wide bars on heavier gravel riding, but for the road and light gravel, ergonomics should win out. Thanks for watching!
@@overbikedrandonneuring Appreciate the response. I'm going to wait until next month when I can schedule a bike fitting to order the stuff, so I'll go off their recommendations. It's going to be on a steel bike so mostly on road and loaded with panniers and bags, but I like having the option to turn off onto some dirt as well.
Great video. BTW I insert the Dr. Scholls shoe heel gel pads into my riding gloves. They offer added vibration protection and also dampen the pothole bumps too.
@@overbikedrandonneuring I’m just in trial phase, so I just slide the pad into gloves, then I pinch the pad, while inserting my hand into glove. If you secure gloves snugly to your hands, the gel pads stay put. I did think about sewing them in place, but how I’m doing it works pretty well!
I'm a big fan of the drop grips. Way more comfortable than without and I find myself using the drops more frequently now. I don't spend much time up top, but the top grips do provide added surface area to lean on to. I found the tops too bulky with cork tape. Much better with 1.8-2.0mm tape.
Agreed. In the months since I put this video out, I've grown even more attached to the drop grips. I spent most of a 130km ride in the drops a few weeks ago due to cross winds, and the grips were invaluable. The top grips don't get much use, but I still appreciate them when used.
@@CinemaKev24 This is what I meant-do you first wrap the handlebars and fit the grips over the tape or fit them on the bars and start wrapping above the grips.
@@tonyg3091 Redshift has install videos but basically you start with securing the top grips to the bar with the provided clear tape. Then you wrap your bars starting about 3.5 inches from the end, progressing up and around the shifter and terminating near the stem. Then slide on the drop grip, which fits over about a half inch bar tape, so it looks perfect. Since the drop grip covers the bar, you use less bar tape and wont run out when you reach the stem.
With 3T gravel handlebars you won't need the top grips the bars are already shaped like that. The drops however are interesting. And I approve of the reverse wrapping.
Question, is there a recommended length for the drop bar area to be flat, for the grips to go on without leaving an opening where the curve begins. Hoping that makes sense. There's a decent size opening on mine when i put the grip on at the recommended 45 degree angle... wondering if the bar tape would fill it out or not. I like my bars and don't want to buy new if I don't have to.
I think I understand your question. The narrow diameter section of the drop grip is a bit flexible, so it should be able to be installed on a mild curve, like if your drops are a bit short. A ~25mm/1 inch section also has a slightly larger diameter cavity than the clamped area. That length is installed over bar tape. The bar tape filling the void should shape the end of the drop grip to conform with your bar bend and remove that gap, as long as the bend isn't extreme.
I hope that answers your question well. Please let me know if it does. Thinking about it, I may chop a cm or two off my drops to get the drop grips further up the bend on my bars, like yours. That would put them in a more usable position. Cheers!
I'm not a fan either, so I almost always equip aero bars to my bikes. Many friends do that position on round bars, but they are more resilient than me. I would guess some flat aero bar tops are more comfortable than others. The top grip rubber is firm, but has some nice damping qualities and would be better than many, but not all flat aero bars. The Haero Carbon H.380 would be an interesting alternative if clip on aero bars aren't an option.
Yes, the Drop Grips reduce the amount of bar tape needed. 1 set of the Really Long Bar Tape wrapped mine and my wife's regular handlebars. Regular length bar tape would give you some leftovers, or you could wrap a bit thicker and use the whole length.
@@paths.to.ponder Nice! Let me know how it looks for you. Despite the limitations of being near the end of the drops, I've been very happy with the Drop Grips.
My FSA bar was $20. No need for a riser when the bike fits. The Truck Stop and the Redshift Kitchen Sink both suffer from the most narrow size offered being wider than what fits me best, and I am big. No clue how smaller riders are supposed to get an ergonomic fit from these offerings. Do you have a link to these ergo grips for drop bars? I am always on the lookout for an improved setup.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Hand comfort is definitely an issue for me on long rides, so this looks worth a try.
They could definitely be part of the solution. Hand pain and numbness on long rides can be a complicated problem to solve, so it's good to approach it from all angles. Ergonomics, isolation from vibration, bike fit variables, and physical condition all play a role. I've had dorsal wrist (back of wrist) problems since high school which make the tops and flat MTB handlebars problematic to use for very long. Strength training helps the most, but equipment helps a lot too. Any idea where your pain comes from?
Love your open and honest review! Really appreciate the detailed description and unbiased review. Thanks!
I have 5 or 600 miles on my cruise control system and bar tape, and I wouldn't return to riding without them. They make riding so much more comfortable and have opened up several hand positions I hadn't used before.
One word of caution, though: While on a tour, I needed to buy new gloves, and the only ones I could find had a suede-like material on the palms. That material rapidly caused the surface layer of the bar tape to start shredding. Other gloves I have have caused no problems.
Got my stop grips for my surly touring bike, there great
I'm looking at the kitchen sinks(no aero bar) + grips + shock stem combo for my touring bike. Seems like a really comfy setup for long distance.
The Shockstop system continues to be among my favorite components ever. I also still quite enjoy the drop grips, but the top grips didn't get put back on after I did some cable work. With the kitchen sink bars, just be sure they provide a narrow enough position for proper ergonomics. I had similar bars back in 2016, Origin 8 Gary, and the width was problematic for long days in the saddle. At 185cm and 92kg, I prefer 40cm bars for comfort. I can see the argument for wide bars on heavier gravel riding, but for the road and light gravel, ergonomics should win out. Thanks for watching!
@@overbikedrandonneuring Appreciate the response. I'm going to wait until next month when I can schedule a bike fitting to order the stuff, so I'll go off their recommendations. It's going to be on a steel bike so mostly on road and loaded with panniers and bags, but I like having the option to turn off onto some dirt as well.
@@shalakabooyaka1480 Nice! It's much better to have a professional opinion on fit than repeatedly buying parts through trial and error. Good luck!
Great video. BTW I insert the Dr. Scholls shoe heel gel pads into my riding gloves. They offer added vibration protection and also dampen the pothole bumps too.
Thank you! That is quite an interesting solution to vibration damping. Are they sewn in?
@@overbikedrandonneuring I’m just in trial phase, so I just slide the pad into gloves, then I pinch the pad, while inserting my hand into glove. If you secure gloves snugly to your hands, the gel pads stay put. I did think about sewing them in place, but how I’m doing it works pretty well!
I'm a big fan of the drop grips. Way more comfortable than without and I find myself using the drops more frequently now. I don't spend much time up top, but the top grips do provide added surface area to lean on to. I found the tops too bulky with cork tape. Much better with 1.8-2.0mm tape.
Agreed. In the months since I put this video out, I've grown even more attached to the drop grips. I spent most of a 130km ride in the drops a few weeks ago due to cross winds, and the grips were invaluable. The top grips don't get much use, but I still appreciate them when used.
How do you with them? Over the wrapped handlebar? Or no wrapping under the grip?
@@tonyg3091 I dont understand the question...I think you left out a word. You dont need tape for the drop grips, just the tops.
@@CinemaKev24 This is what I meant-do you first wrap the handlebars and fit the grips over the tape or fit them on the bars and start wrapping above the grips.
@@tonyg3091 Redshift has install videos but basically you start with securing the top grips to the bar with the provided clear tape. Then you wrap your bars starting about 3.5 inches from the end, progressing up and around the shifter and terminating near the stem. Then slide on the drop grip, which fits over about a half inch bar tape, so it looks perfect. Since the drop grip covers the bar, you use less bar tape and wont run out when you reach the stem.
With 3T gravel handlebars you won't need the top grips the bars are already shaped like that. The drops however are interesting.
And I approve of the reverse wrapping.
Question, is there a recommended length for the drop bar area to be flat, for the grips to go on without leaving an opening where the curve begins. Hoping that makes sense. There's a decent size opening on mine when i put the grip on at the recommended 45 degree angle... wondering if the bar tape would fill it out or not. I like my bars and don't want to buy new if I don't have to.
I think I understand your question. The narrow diameter section of the drop grip is a bit flexible, so it should be able to be installed on a mild curve, like if your drops are a bit short. A ~25mm/1 inch section also has a slightly larger diameter cavity than the clamped area. That length is installed over bar tape. The bar tape filling the void should shape the end of the drop grip to conform with your bar bend and remove that gap, as long as the bend isn't extreme.
I hope that answers your question well. Please let me know if it does. Thinking about it, I may chop a cm or two off my drops to get the drop grips further up the bend on my bars, like yours. That would put them in a more usable position. Cheers!
Which is much better, flat aero dropbar vs round dropbar + top shift grip when doing the position at 3:10 ? My arms hurt when doing that position
I'm not a fan either, so I almost always equip aero bars to my bikes. Many friends do that position on round bars, but they are more resilient than me. I would guess some flat aero bar tops are more comfortable than others. The top grip rubber is firm, but has some nice damping qualities and would be better than many, but not all flat aero bars. The Haero Carbon H.380 would be an interesting alternative if clip on aero bars aren't an option.
@@overbikedrandonneuring for now all i did was double my bartape on that area since im still torn between aero flat dropbar vs installing top grips 🤣
@@bugsbunny4648 That will work pretty well too. Would you consider aero bars? Could give more comfort and control if your events allow them.
@@overbikedrandonneuring i have cheap aerobars. loved them also. havent mounted them for years. might as well try it again
Yesss!!!
would this work without the custom redshift bar tape? given that tape start after the drop grip, will a normal tape be sufficient?
Yes, the Drop Grips reduce the amount of bar tape needed. 1 set of the Really Long Bar Tape wrapped mine and my wife's regular handlebars. Regular length bar tape would give you some leftovers, or you could wrap a bit thicker and use the whole length.
@@overbikedrandonneuring Will try regular bar tape first starting from where the drop grips end and see how it works out. Thanks a lot.
@@paths.to.ponder Nice! Let me know how it looks for you. Despite the limitations of being near the end of the drops, I've been very happy with the Drop Grips.
Dope 👍
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Surly Truck Stop. Much better bar, and much, much cheaper. Ergo grips, also cheaper and better.
My FSA bar was $20. No need for a riser when the bike fits. The Truck Stop and the Redshift Kitchen Sink both suffer from the most narrow size offered being wider than what fits me best, and I am big. No clue how smaller riders are supposed to get an ergonomic fit from these offerings.
Do you have a link to these ergo grips for drop bars? I am always on the lookout for an improved setup.
I can't get over the backward wrapped tape on the tops...it makes my hands hurt just looking at it, and it wouldn't last a month.
It lasted over a year and never got loose. Just changed it earlier this month.