Видео

5 degrees and wet reminds of the last few days hiking the PCT in Washington/BC back in 2012. And the entire trip to Vancouver in winter a few years ago. Is that is the only weather condition allowed there?

Thanks! I started using bigger road tires in 2015, with 33.3mm Rivendell Jack Brown Greens, and needed a touring bike to fit them. Later, 35mm Vittoria Voyager Hyper. Moved back to~32mm +/- race tires later on, but by then common endurance bikes could fit them. I suspect that the best mix of speed and comfort will come from a relatively narrow tire at the lower end of it's pressure range. But, that target width should be heavily influenced by weight and road roughness. At 230 lbs, 35mm and +/- 50PSI would be really close to my expectations for an ideal endurance setup for real world roads. That would offer similar comfort as ~41PSI in a 45mm, but be more narrow and lighter, at a minor cost of some grip/cornering/braking. It's an interesting problem to think about.

I've found that to be true too. I have a full coverage balaclava for very cold weather and it helps. It gets wet after a short time though, which can be worse than nothing at all. In the past I've used a 3M painters respirator mask which prevents too much moisture from escaping, but restrict breathing a bit. I'm curious to try the heat exchanger mask idea Frostbiker mentioned. The 8210 series N95s are pretty good too.

Good call! I had used those in the past, but sort of forgot about it.

That's right! Winter riding is pretty nice when hot wholesome stews and rice are available at most every restaurant on the road.

Thanks you too! We also have the 1 brevet per month award here, called R12. If timed well, 200k can be done in the day time, but Korea is a lower latitude than the UK. Some regions regularly have dangerous winter road conditions, so the club has options for Zwift 200k once per month December-February. I'm not too keen on paying registration to ride on Zwift for 10 hours though. Stay safe out there!

Nobody is racing in the winter; looks like a good solution. Apple cider sounds like a great energy drink too.

Thanks for the comment! It has been interesting to see product availability increase. I first moved to Korea in 2010 and remember how hard it was to find natural cheese, deodorant, full size towels, and peanut butter. Now there are imports from Europe at the local grocery store I had never seen in the US. How's the cycling in Shizuoka? Looks to be quite scenic. Be careful in the wind for sure. I had a sketchy descent from the shot in the video.

@@overbikedrandonneuring Exactly the same here. I learned to make my own cheese eventually :-) The cycling here is frankly idyllic. We're just at the southern tip of the"Southern Alps" in Japan, so it's a lot of foothills where I live. No proper mountains in my local area, but I'm only about 60 km away from Mt Fuji, so it's not exactly hard to find mountains if I need to :-) The roads are generally very good and the drivers are courteous and friendly. Also, there is always a drink machine and toilet nearby (which is important to me as my age is creeping up...) The only main problem is that as more and more people move to the big cities, the old mountain roads are being left and sometimes go into decline. Depending on where you are, you may be faced with a choice of a few *very* steep farm roads or a *very* busy road where normal traffic goes. Exploring to find new routes is a good hobby, though! I've only just discovered your channel. I'd love to see more videos of rides in your area. It looks amazing!

Thanks for the tips! You must have a lot of expertise cycling in Finland. I had to use the water bladder with insulated straw in Canada when I lived there, but really didn't cycle enough in those years to develop those advanced techniques and equipment. My commute was only 10-15 minutes and recreational cycling was daytime only. That's a great point about dynamo systems. I'll keep that in mind for future videos.

Thanks! I recall reading about that some time ago. I'm not sure when it works, but I think I'll be using my Camelback Podium bottles moving forward which should just keep it warmer.

I've needed no after sales service in the year I've owned the Vecnum. A viewer reported working with them on an issue though. They are a small company, so I would expect the benefits and limitations of that when dealing with A/S service.

For commuting and touring, I would save some money and get the Redshift. It also matches steel bike aesthetics better. I've had the Vecnum for over a year and needed no A/S service. That's good since it is not serviceable by the user. The Redshift is somewhat serviceable, in that you can clean and swap the elastomers and preload wedge. I have had to replace the preload wedge once.

Yes, the 1700 also has reduced brightness over time but can last an entire night with suitable brightness without going into low battery mode. The Lumintop BO1 seems to have better consistency, similar to a Fenix light, but does require a battery swap to get through the night. Thank you for the encouragement! I've been running the Lezyne Mega XL for several years as my head unit. I had been looking to update it recently, but nothing from Garmin, Wahoo, or Karoo seemed to offer a significant boost in functionality or enough battery life to make the change. I recently bought a Coros Dura and will be testing it to see if it is actually usable. It had a terrible launch and lots of bugs, but has several major firmware updates since then. Going out to do some testing now in fact. Battery life alone would make it a top choice if it would just simply work well. I will likely pick up a Wahoo Ace if they update the software to make the wind sensor functional enough to do an A vs. B aero test too. It's real world battery life may not be good enough for randonneuring though.

@ i cant wait to hear about the Dura from you. i do love the battery life. i need a new computer by april. i have the original wahoo bolt and when i loaded the rode woth GPX file for my Brevet last year it went stupid. as soon as i started the ride i only had cadence and speed, lost everything else. the software was up to date and everything it might have been a 1 time thing but im not trusting ot woth nacoagation any more . Im pretty sure I will get the magic shine 1700 after we recover from christmas

@@irondistance4313 It's looking really good after last night. Seems many of the problems have been resolved. More data and impressions to collect though. Lots of GPS units struggle with large file sizes for navigation and recording. I've had a few hallucinations on my Lezyne too. Dura claims very high capacity for that, so I'm hopeful. Cheers!

@ thanks i will keep it in mind and hold out on a purchase perhaps i will message you in about a month and see what your feeling are if your review hasent come out yet

I guess it'd depend on your system weight and tire height + pressure. I've had rim contact with an obstacle with a 30mm (28c) tire at 45 PSI before (slow leak, bad sealant), but it was tubeless so no flat and the rim was luckily okay. Destroyed a rim with a 24c tire at 100psi. Had no issues with 33mm (30c) tires. I'd avoid testing to failure haha.

Probably a strong combo with some soldering, and could be done with most any E-bike specific light. The Magicshine ME StVZO is similar spec (900 lumens) and 1/3 the price. Wish I had the skills and know-how. Could be a fun project to wire up a battery stored in the seatpost or frame to a rear and front light (and maybe a radar and USB), and maybe drill a port and epoxy in a waterproof contact charging head for recharging.

Thank you for the feedback. I don't think I'll ever be able to do 'social media excitement presentation style', but I'm happy to have an audience that doesn't need that. Both stems are great, and the Vecnum is really expensive. I think anyone happy with the Redshift should feel confident continuing to enjoy it. I'm not getting rid of mine, that's for sure. I may stiffen it up some and try to emulate your experience though. It sounds nice. I've been running 60+70 elastomers for a long time, so maybe it's time for 60 or 70 +80.

That's true. I experienced that progression when I first bought it, and just got used to everything. After more experience, the little issues started to pop back into my consciousness. Strange aero bar behavior was first, then rough descents on the drops, and finally a few scary moments descending on the hoods brought it back into full recognition. Descending on the hoods hadn't been an issue when my hoods were angled upwards. I found a level position to be more comfortable for general riding, but that came at the cost of those scary moments going downhill. If you don't use aero bars and are happy descending with the Redshift, then the Vecnum may not provide much benefit.

@@overbikedrandonneuring Interesting, thanks for the reply. Every road ride for me ends with a short gravel descent home which I do on the hoods (conditions vary from smooth, to corrugations where you just want to let go of bars). Unweighted, hoods are angled up tiniest amount. I know it sounds stupid, but I run aero bars with just the pads, and no bars. Before I would sometimes briefly just put my forearms on the handlebars, hands together, so raised pads (spacers similar to yours) is infinitely more comfortable/stable whilst still giving hand/back relief from usual positions (and bonus of being more aero). Removed the bar extensions and as I didn't like seeing them in front of me when not using them, took away the nice "floating" sensation of riding a bike (only doing short rides though, likely return them for longer ones). So Redshift stem likely no suspension/movement when on the pads.

Thank you for the kind words and the smash! I think both stems allow a rider to have a more forward bias in weight distribution (if they prefer) since they protect the hands from impacts and reduce upper body fatigue. The Vecnum does this a bit better since it is more cushy on the drops when descending. Both stems have enough adjustability to target a given load of a road rider's weight distribution. Does that answering the question as you asked it? Cheers!

Both stems have a wide range of stiffness that can be achieved, which will impact shock absorption rates. In my standalone review of the Vecnum, there is data regarding absorption at my preferred setting and the softest setting. As I mentioned, testing the Redshift is impossible using my current protocol. It's absorption varies depending on hand load, load distance from pivot point, and sensor location relative to load and pivot point. Subjectively, my preferred settings on both stems feel similar in absorption at the hoods position. The Vecnum outperforms the Redshift in absorption on the drops, the tops, and using aero bars because it isn't impacted by leverage.

Cirrus Kinekt is priced in line with Redshift. It targets gravel and has a metal spring to better suit rougher conditions. It comes with a hefty weight penalty though. CyclingAbout has reviewed it on his website, which I highly recommend. I'd love to see more product development to compete in this area, but Vecnum seems to be the top choice for road riding. As these are complex, safety critical parts, I'd avoid knockoff versions.

@@overbikedrandonneuring thanks man!

Redshift recently launched stems with 55mm and 70mm lengths.

@@andrewmcalister3462 didn't know that, thanks!

Great to hear! Love the creativity of using the Vecnum alongside the future shock. Did you need a shim to make it fit? Glad to hear you are having good experience with durability. I had concerns with titanium and aluminum together corroding. No issues so far.

@@overbikedrandonneuring Specialized sells a spacer that fits a normal stem to the Future Shock. The Vecnum is slightly taller than the post of the FS, so I cut the spacer in half and separated the halves so that there was spacer between each pinch bolt on the stem and the post. Having both in series is overkill for randonneuring but is great for chunky descents on gravel.

Fan of Community?

Cheers! Glad to hear my experience is similar to yours. I am not getting rid of my Redshift by any means. It will also live on the Polygon once my new bike gets built up this winter. It's a very good stem.

The bars don't rotate with the parallelogram linkage of the Vecnum. They do translate along an arc.

@@oldanslo yes, more or less linearly along the axis of the head tube, yes. But since the bar is actually dropping away from you it should actually tilt back toward you a tiny bit instead.

@@weatheranddarkness Not sure what you are trying to accomplish, but a linkage that rotates the bars towards the rider as it travels downward reduces the net downward motion and therefore shock absorption. And the net downward motion would vary with hand position.

@@oldanslo yes, but then your muscles aren't trying to hold your angle during the translation because the angles don't lean away from you. Better to add travel once you've got the geometry right than live with bad geometry because it gives you more travel.

@@weatheranddarkness Please explain in clear language what you consider to be the 'right' geometry for the motion.

Thank you for the kind words. I look at my bike as if it were designed by a thieving magpie. There is a certain beauty in that.

Form follows function! I hope you get lots of enjoyment out of your Vecnum. We need to have ugly bike contests. I bet randonneurs would do well, although triathletes would be tough competition.

Yes, I had a titanium drop bar bike with a Lauf from 2016-2018. 700x2.4" tires for offroad and 35mm Vittoria Voyager Hypers for on road. Had a custom sized rigid fork originally that set the geometry with road tires was perfect for road riding, but could swap in a suspension fork for good geo offroad (slack HTA, STA, higher BB). I ended up just using the Lauf all the time as there was lots of mixed terrain riding in Ontario. The Lauf was best for mild offroad, but felt sloppy on tarmac. Didn't like the way it cornered loosely and it bobbed under heavy pedaling. I would buy another if I were to do gravel riding regularly.

Thanks for the ideas! Both of those are very minimalist, and the Transx is quite cheap.

Hi there! I am no expert, but isn't your frame too large if you need such a short stem (assuming it's a road bike)? Anyway, I don't think they can reduce the length of the Vecnun without sacrificing performance. But let's see what the future will bring.

@@StefanPolak my new gravel frame came stock 70mm stem; it accounts for longer top tube geo and is meant to improve handling (similar to how mtn bikes have short stems).

Doubtful. The linkage is pretty crowded already and the 90mm can foul on some frames such that they have you print out a compatibility guide. Would a 90mm stem and shorter reach drop bars work for you? I sometimes shorten my reach by rotating handlebars forward which result in the brake levers being nearer when clamped at the correct angle. I've been tempted to trim the drops 1-2cm to allow more rotation.

@stefanpolak yeah like Patrick said, gravel bike stems are getting shorter because top tubes are getting longer. Google “progressive geometry,” it’s all trickling down from the MTB world

@@overbikedrandonneuring it depends on which bike I use it on. I’m partial to bikes with more progressive geometry but 90mm might be doable. I do the same with the drop bars and rotation.

Yeah, some AliExpress ones. Shaves about 200g from the old Shimano bars. I wanted to test full arm support before making an expensive purchase. I'm in love with full arm support, but not these bars specifically. I am building up a new bike this winter that will feature some other full arm support bars that hopefully perform a bit better and have a better design.

@@overbikedrandonneuring I’m in the same market. Which full arm support bars are you looking at? I’m curious if I could pair some nice full arm support bars either the redshift quick releases.

@@rdx913 I'm going with these and crossing my fingers they work out: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ooBVjn5

Thanks! It's fun to get nerdy. Yeah, I bought the Dura recently but haven't had enough time with it to test out some key functions to make a judgement on it. It's initial release was really bad, and I compiled a list of 30 complaints made across various reviews. There have been two firmware updates in the meantime and should have another one this month or January. Some issues have been fixed, others have not, and a few are TBD. Specific to endurance cycling, I need to test turn by turn accuracy and alert behavior (including roundabouts) with a GPX file, off-course and rerouting behavior, and climb pro behavior. I hope to put out a video on it maybe a week after the next firmware update. Stay tuned!

Yeah, a combination of mounting height/angle and beam pattern affect how lights illuminate obstacles and how the lights appear in rider's mirrors. Mounting lights below the handlebar gives a similar beam angle as the classic front rack mount and allows obstacles to be identified well. Very useful since few riders here use a canvas cube out front for gear storage. Helmet mounts are the worst for obscuring obstacles. Hub-level mounting exaggerates them. An even beam intensity goes a long way to help too. There does seem to be a correlation that lights designed with cone shaped beams and ultra bright hot spots aimed at my mirror also have no cutoffs and use over-the-handlebar mounting. The under-the-bars mounting and cutoff lenses available with the 3 lights I have reviewed all support courteous riding with others. The Lumintop B01 and Evo1700 have more even beam patterns and sharper cutoffs than the Gaciron Raptor though, which make them a tad more courteous. Expect any lights I review to do well in this regard.

Thanks! Getting some sleep and riding safely at night is the foundation for much of what my channel targets regarding fast equipment, good fueling, and reduced fatigue with comfortable setup. I remember reading Maria Parker had a consistent and liberal sleep schedule when she won RAAM as well.

I think that's what I'll do moving forward. When injury free, I tend toward ~6-7 ultra distance rides per year. I was under the impression that oils may foul the wax pot, but Silca recently announced a scheme to add a bunch of "Type 5" premium oil to the wax for winter use. If that's the case, then I'll just wipe down my oil-on-wax chain a bit and throw it in the wax pot after an event. Slowly prep the pot to be winter ready haha.

@garretcallan from the manual: The remote control will enter sleep mode if the light is turned off for more than 48 hours without any operation. Click the light’s button to activate it or long-press the light’s button to turn it on, and the remote control can work normally. REMOTE CONTROL PAIRING Turn on the light, press and hold the “○””□” buttons on the remote for about 10 seconds until the indicator alternately flashes blue to enter pairing mode. Then, put the remote close to the light button until the indicators on the remote and light unit are constantly blue for 2 seconds, confirming a successful pairing.

Thanks i got it​@overbikedrandonneuring

The video offers a range of choices at different price points, but ignores halo bikes. You'll notice I prioritize the semi-custom bikes as the best choices due to fit accommodations. The Litespeed Arenberg, overall winner, is currently on sale with 105 12spd starting under 2900USD. Enfranchised cyclists often sell old bike to help finance new bike, but you should always spec to your target price point too. Locally, the Roubaix in 105 12 spd with alloy rims is selling for the equivalent of $2200USD. Check local listings for good deals.

@CarnegieGER I emailed the company directly. It's model xbt-48. Unfortunately it didn't work alongside suspension stem.

@ ok thanks its for gravelbike

I would need to flat about 4 times per day every day for your argument to make sense if I swapped to Gatorskins, for example. As it stands, I flat less with tubeless race tires than when I ran thicker road tires featuring a puncture belt with tubes. And they ride great!

Yes, I shot these using manual settings. I set white balance to match the perceived color of the Raptor, as it was the focus of the video, but that setting yellowed the beam of the EVO compared to it's real-life color. To the eye, the Raptor is quite cool and a bit bluish, while the EVO is more neutral. The Lumintop B01 is rather warm by comparison. The EVO is very homogenous in real life though, so that is accurately represented. The mild hot spot of the Raptor is representative of expected performance too. Cheers!

My pleasure! You'll love the homogenous nature of the Evo beam. Light color on the Evo is neutral to my eye, and is my preferred warmth level. The Magicshine app isn't perfect and light's memory of the previous setting can be forgetful. It's easy enough to set before a long night of riding though.

The warmer light actually throws out more light, but your eyes play tricks on you and the cooler bulbs look brighter. IIRC the sweet spot is something like 3600k or 4600k something like that. At least that's what I was told when I was going to put projecters in my fun car.

@@davidburgess741 Interesting,I would be worried about waterproofing...

My worst luck has been with premium B&M Lights, funny enough. 1 dynamo, 1 USB Type B, 1 AAA battery, and all had reliability issues resulting from poor design choices. More recent offerings like the 3 I've reviewed for this channel have all been reliable and seem built well. I have a frame on order and I would love to develop some custom lighting, but sadly lack the technical skills.

Nice! Yeah, I have the Lumintop B01 which is quite similar to the Fenix. Spare 21700 for long rides. For my riding style, I try to get a hotel overnight for 5-6 hours each night, so a solution that can go 8 hours without any attention is ideal. The Raptor is 15g less than the BO1 + spare 21700 but sadly only offers 6 usable hours on low. The hunt continues!

@mohamednabilhamza8699 depends on where you live. generally, you can get a Strattos 105 for the same price as a mainstream brand bike with alloy frame, and in some cases Tiagra.