Quick recommendation when drilling next to sensitive areas: clean the block's surface well and then use duct tape to cover/seal the openings where you do not want metal shavings in, i.e. cylinder bores, water and oil passages... The debris just slide right off... when you are done drilling, just remove the duct tape...
just to let everyone know,the time serts all worked great. I replaced all the holes. The cars back together and running and driven with no problems! Thx to these videos ,or else the car would of most likely been junked!
This is super helpful video. May I suggest some things to supplement the content: once the tap is started about 6 threads deep, I recommend reversing the tap one-half turn after every full forward revolution to break off the chip. I have seen aluminum chips bind up in the tap flutes and cause some outward thrust to the walls of the hole. (I have also seen guys put the tap in the drill to drive it through the hole thinking it's no big deal because the aluminum is soft. This is a terrible idea). On small powersports engines this out-thrust can crack a part or a water jacket, and in an engine block I'm certain the same thing could happen, and you'd never be able to tell until its too late. On a deep vertical hole like this I also like to remove the tap at the half-way point and clear out the chips. Some chips fall to the bottom of the hole and get compressed by the tap. The vac will not suck them out. I use a pick tool to dislodge the chips, and check with a light to ensure the hole is fully bottomed. Keep up the great work!
Glad I watched this, I just bought a 2011 bmw 328i in beautiful shape, only 80k miles, blown headgasket. Im happy to see that this is possible to do with the engine in the car.
2:19 why risk shavings going into the engine. when i did mine i covered the whole block with masking tape except for the hole i was working on. Aluminum foil would also work well. It doesn't take long and it's extra piece of mind.
Thanks for video great confidence builder on doing this job. Please consider taping off the top the block then cutting out holes out around the timesert installation work area.
You can also use M11x1.5x30mm and VAG/Seat AAE headbolts, Elring part: 302.250. I do this on all my M52/M54 blocks, also good if you are going forced induction.
Nathan ,I think my BMW 330CI Head Gasket (Blowing Coolant out of Cap) has gone. I know your video dates back to 2015 but it is now very helpful. Keep the your videos coming mate. Enjoy them. Thank you. Cheers from Garry
Hi Nathan, First of all I want to congratulate you on your videos, you make it look so simple! I am getting ready to tork down a cylinder head on an E46 M54 2001 Doube Vanos. The head was send to the machine shop and came back perfect. I had to pull it out, because, the gasket was broken between cylenders 4, 5 & 6 I found these out due to a compression test that showed 65 +/- in all of these cylinders. The rest of the cylinders showed 175 each. Need is to said, that no overheating or oil in the water or water in the oil was to be found. The car has 160 thousand milles and after many years i gaved to my 19 year old son. My question is out of curiosity, is this a common mechanical fail in these model? I am appealing to your knowledge in these particular cars.Also, I have puchase a "Torque Angle Gauge" since I need to torque the head back. I cannot find much info about torque specifications and , since I am an old timer, are not familiar with these procedures. Some peole said is 22ft Pounds and 90 Degrees two times. Others 30ft pounds and 90 degrees twise also. Can you please help me on these specifications? will appreciate greatly.Thanks again, Marco from Montreal Canada.
+Marco Quiroga hello go to my facebook page and send me your phone number in a Private message there are some things you need to look out for before you torque that head
Nice video, Nathan, I would like to add some interesting info for the Forced Induction fans: There is room for a little bit longer timesert, I dont remember the max size but its easy to find. The idea is that if you timesert an M54/m52TU block using the longest inserts possible it bocomes a block strong as M50, but lighter and equipped with better cylinder head. (M52tu and M54 have cast iron sleeves ;) )
If you are installing the longest timeserts and head studs, I'm sure that you would have reasons to take your m54/m52tu out for some other improvements in the block :D
Place clean shop towels into the cylinder holes, then tape the deck to cover all the holes. Also, use a tap wrench instead of a ratchet and go back and forth. This will clean the threads as you go. Use tap cutter oil instead of wd-40
I have a 2002 325Ci, I believe it is an M54 Engine. The head Is currently at the machine shop, they told me I will need to buy the thicker (+3) 1mm head gasket because of how much it is warped. Some of the threads in the block feel mushy so I decided to purchase M10X1.50X24.5 Time-Serts and a kit with Time-Sert tools. Here are my questions about this: Do I need to chamfer the head with this engine? How do I remove the alignment dowels? Do I need to counter bore (the tool does not seem to fit properly in some holes)? Did I get the correct Time-Serts? I sent you a message on FB with my phone number, if you could help me I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you for your great videos!
As good as this video was, (and it is very good), I believe this engine was finally replaced by Nathan after one or more of the first timeserts started to pull out of the block, and he had to put in the Bigserts, which, (and correct me if I'm wrong), held, but then there was a rod failure? I suffered a catastrophic radiator failure on the Autobahn, travelling about 160kph in my 528i Touring. My head was warped by overheating, (don't you wish there were an audible alarm when something like that happens?), which pulled a couple of bolts from the block. Now, if I had the time, tools, and a place to work (of which I had none), I'd certainly consider trying out the Timeserts. The cost is relatively modest, and it would be worth a try. However, once the heads and block overheat, the molecular composition of the alloy can be compromised (or so I have been told), making the use of inserts sort of dicey. Besides that, there may have been other engine damage. So, as I have an independent mechanic (actually, a ex-BMW Meister who opened his own shop) who has taken care of my car since it went out of warranty, I decided to go with a used engine with 107,000km. My car has 250,000, BTW. The new (to me) engine has a three month warranty that covers the costs of installation and transport of another engine, and I trust my guy to make sure that everything is in order, and to replace everything that needs to be replaced at this mileage level, including upgraded VANOS and cooling system components. In the end, I expect to pay about 4,000 Euros for everything. That may seem like a lot, since there are many E39's that can be purchased for that. Thing is, I bought mine new in Texas in 2000, and have taken excellent care of it. I moved it to Germany in 2008, and there is not a spot of rust anywhere. Suspension components/window regulators, etc. have been replaced as necessary, and the car RAN amazingly well before the incident. So, I know this car, and the cost is worth it to me. Though I could easily afford it, I've no interest in a newer one. The E60 is something I'd stay far away from, and frankly, in the E39 era, BMW created their most beautiful sedans and wagons. I find everything since then to be stomach turning. But again, nothing but Kudos to Nathan. I also appreciate his reliability videos on the E39. It gave me a good list of things to make sure my mechanic is replacing.
Is a head gasket failure or the preventive replacement of the head gasket something that mechanics just avoid by claiming that the blocks aluminum threads are too soft to handle another round of head bolt torqueing? I've asked a dozen BMW mechanics and got the same answer everytime. Can be retorqued...gonna have to just by another used engine. I'm on my 3rd e46 despite my last two 325s having a head gasket failure and overheating
Hi Nate...you are an inspiration for me as I’m a new bmw owner...your video on the timecerts is informative..but there is a better install of the process...The way you drill and tap is problematic at best as there is no guide to insure the perpendicularly of your process Years ago working for another engine builder five of the head bolt holes on a big block Chevy pulled out. After pulling cyl head off ..turning engine upside down as it was fully assembled.....being very careful I got heli coil installed....but this engine had studs and the very slight misalignment of the insert did not let the head go on very easily as the stud now was not straight. I developed a tool that uses drill guide bushings for the drill bit and the tap. What a difference..always straight Also if you put grease in the flutes of tap the chips will get collected in the grease
Hey really like your vids. I got a question. My 2005 325xi block... I'm checking for flatness on the block and noticed that in between each cylinder, in the very middle, the piston sleeves are not flush with the block. They are on the top and bottom of the block. Just in the middle they are about a 16th of an inch. They are uniform all the way across in the hight. Is this normal or do I have a problem.??? Thanks for your help...
hie Nathan can you help with an idea, i`m in Zimbabwe down in Southern Africa. My M54 head is said to have been over skimmed and was pressure tested results came out good, is there anything i can do rather to buy a new one?
Nathan , i bought a bmw 525i 2002 with no reverse and rebuilded the transmission , it was good for 4 months , changed the oil periodically than it left me stuck on the highway cs it overheated , i towed the car tom the shop and the nightmare started, radiator was replaced , fan clutch, coolant pipe, head gasket , engine head cracked comes to 3400$ , my question is after all this is being done , should i be worry about anything else going bad ? replaced thermostat and water pump also thanks
Nathan ,what do you think of Akins post? VW, head bolts? I wanna try it,for quick fix. Nervous to make screw things up worse, but it could save alot of time and money!
It is whatever you prefer to do but you will have to do all the bolts not just a few, the time serts are $26, i have never done the diesel bolts but they should work as long as the length is right
Hi Nathan, I could really use some good advice before I throw away a bunch of money. I bought a 2004 330i with head gasket blow for cheap, thinking it would be a good deal. Found out the head had a small crack - eh, still worth it. But then I found out about the common block thread issue. I'm trying to decide if it's worth the risk if I spend the money to get another head. I've heard from several bmw mechanics, that if I do get the bolts to torque with time certs, they eventually pull out. I'm really stuck. I want the car purchase to be a waste, but I don't want to waste even more money on a hopeless fix. Help!
Where can you find M52TU engines for 500$? I have a blown head gasket in my 2000 528i. I only drive it 1 mile while puffing white smoke. I’m not sure if it’s warped or cracked… been sitting for almost a year..
the reason I asked how you got the old threads out was bc the bmw engine's block has already had timesert put in it and they have stripped out and some of the bottom of the holes no longer exist. is it possible to buy bigger t imeserts and tap them in or what would u suggest? I did not expect this at all.
+Mark Moore It is for sure possible to get bigger serts but i have not looked into it, i would think you could use a "easy out" that you would use to remove a broken bolt to get the threads out
Nathan's DIY Garage Nathan, help me please I need to use time serts on my bmw 2001 330i M54 block can you write what I will need? 14 inserts 24.5 mm in length right, 28$ on eBay, I got that what else do I need? there's a ridiculous kit on eBay for 400$ I'd rather save money by buying the kit parts separately.. . Nathan, please .. .
Those who have tried this method, did you have to use the "special tool" to set/lock the internal thread on the time sert? Does the bolt cut these threads? If so did you use an old head bolt or could a person use a 10x1.5 tap to set the insert. Thank you.
oh cool thanks. What size counter bore should I get? Also what size installation tool to install the time serts? I found a kit with all the tools but it's $86. I assume much cheaper to buy tools individually
Had several head bolts that were stripped. I was just told by a BMW mechanic that if I do this (add time-serts) it will weaken the block. Is this true, sounds like BS to me, but I thought I'd ask
ok thanks. I just noticed that all are stripped but about 4. ill go ahead and do all of them like u suggest. also, the timesert on ebay are 10×1.5 25mm is this correct? bc they dont sell any other ones.great videos!
+Mark Moore Yes that is correct, i got the last set off amazon with a victor reinz head gasket for about $70 total, dont forget not to seal the valve cover at first so you can go back in after a hour or so of run time and re-torque the head bolts, they will be loose, also 55lbs is really al the tighter you need the head bolts
The Chilton book says 30lbs and then go back twice and do another 90 degrees. Anyways, your saying " do it in sequence at 55lbs and then after a hour, go back and retighten them? Also, how do I get the old thread inserts out? Thanks soo, much for helping.I just had to pull the head with the exhaust manifold on it out the car. I thought I wasn't going to be able to do it and I will definitely need to use a engine hoist to put it back in by myself soo I wont mess up the gasket unless you know a way around that?
I go 3 stages of tight, usually 20lbs the first 40 the seconds and 55 the third tightening from the middle out, if the old time certs are good leave them in it
83.2 ft:lbs to 95 ft:lbs for racing with these specifications of inline six which are prone to blow by and related contourtion right on cylinder 2 and 3
what do you do about the 4 smaller headbolts at each end of the head, Im doing a job on an n51 and Im kinda confused by these kits as they all only come with m-10 1.5 inserts, do you just not retap the smaller diameter bolts? or do you bore up to the much larger M-10/ 1.5?
They don't need doing, only the main clamping blots around the cylinders. It's not as easy as it looks doing this with the engine in place. You will have problems with the drill not aligning correctly at the firewall side of the engine. It's critical to get the threads straight in the block or you risk rupturing the water jackets. After drilling the old threads out you should also counterbore each hole with a 12.5mm drill bit to a depth of 4mm for the top of the time-serts to seat into.
@@arnolduk123 So you only do the inner 10? On the N51 the 4 outer ones are smaller, 1 in each corner that seal around the end cylinders. I havent been able to fins any info on this anywhere
@@Thedeaconoftrade Well I'm not sure about the N51 engine. I was talking about the M54 engine and these tend to pull threads on the middle 3 cylinders (3,4,5) bottom exhaust side threads usually go first. When an engine warps from overheating it is usualy the middle cylinders and the end cylinders are usually unaffected if that helps.
+MrOriuk79 All the videos are up on my channel there is just not one that cover it all, in one video, you will need the timing tool kit and time serts if its a m52tu or m54
+Nathan's DIY Garage ok thanks - what head bolts? because my standard ones are too small for the inserts - the insert just slides over them, doesnt thread on because its too big. where can i get appropriate size cylinder head bolts?
something has to be wrong with the inserts i have because the inside is definitely larger than 10mm - they slide right over the head bolt. you can easily pull them on and off of the bolt. the inserts i purchased are Hoerr Racing Products Time-Sert part no. 12155, size M12 x 1.5 x 24.0
You're supposed to countersink around the hole so that the timesert can sit flush with the surface, the kits come with the correct tap and counterbore bit: www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html
Man you do a lot of really helpful videos but this is NOT how to install these things on this car. The lip that sticks up on the block that "nobody tells you about" shouldn't exist at all because your supposed to use a counter sink bit after you drill the first hole and before you tap the threads so that it finishes slightly below the deck surface. Training video here ruclips.net/video/ggz8AguYtKM/видео.html Doing the inserts after watching your video first has made lots of extra work on this job. I've have to drill a counter sink into my head on all the holes too small for the lip to fit over so that it will lay flat. I've had to recess the head side of the holes for line up dowels also. Also, the bolt holes in the gasket don't fit over the lip that sticks up from the inserts so I've got a long careful date with a round file wile crossing my fingers I don't ruin my head gasket. Had I watched the actual training instruction on these I would have just been able to bolt it on. Don't take me wrong, I'm not hating-I love your videos and they've been a ton of help. Maybe this is new info for you, it sure was for me!
You claim that another engine is a thousands of dollars I've I've gone on eBay and I've never seen it thousands of dollars I've seen the most $900 and I don't know almost grand and of course I've I've seen some for about 14 or maybe 15 other than that oh and those engines have low miles is it possible that or is it if I was to do this pick up another engine that is do I have to do anything with the computer as long as it's the same model anything
+dayyou It seems like only the m52tu does that, the m54 always clears, at this point i have done so many of them prefer the serts no to clear and to chamfer the head so they act as locating dowels so you know your in the correct location
Nils Jakobson At the top of the sert where the flair is the threads do not go to the top, you ca counter sink them into the head or block its your preference, like them to slightly stick up that way it will hold the head in place when installing it.
I like how BMWs look and drive but they are awful for long term reliability because of how they are designed. I had a e36 that the engine blew a head gasket because the plastic impeller broke off the water pump. I have a e39 that the valves got bent in because the plastic timing chain guide broke without warning. The ccv went bad and caused all sorts of problems. I bought a e46 with all the head bolt threads pulled out from an overheat. BMW are engineering marvels but are horrible once they get age on them because of all the plastic usage. The cooling systems are a joke.
+Wipsplash Well i have mastered all of those problems so fixing them is very easy for me , i always say that someone that is not mechanically inclined has to business owning a used car, i think they are easy because everything is fixable, unlike the cheap cars and trucks gm, dodge, and ford put out today, it cost me $100 to do a thread repair on the m62tu and m54 engines, and another $100 to get the car reliable again , and those are items it only needs as it gets around 200k miles, we sold my girlfriends cobalt last year with 65k miles because it was unfixable junk and was falling apart faster than i could put it together,she now drives a 03 e39 i bought for $800 and is a completely reliable daily, so i guess it depends on how you look at bmw and its competition, compared to others i think they are pretty good cars.
I'm mechanically inclined just fine as my rebuilt E39 4L30E transmission and E46 M54 engine demonstrates. I stand by my comment that most BMWs have excessive use of plastic and are designed in a poor manner for reliability. My other vehicles have no CCV that will fill the cylinders with oil when it goes bad. I have no other vehicles that pull head bolts straight out of the block when the head overheats. My other vehicles don't have $1000 dollars worth of cooling system components that need to be changed out every 5 years. BMW window regulators are a joke. How about E39 cup holders, you think that's an awesome design? The ZF 5HP19 trans is known to have premature reverse drum failures in vehicles with even under 50k. I'm not bitter because I had my car break. I bought my 330i on the cheap with stripped head bolts. I repaired the head bolt threads and rebuilt the engine with all internals and complete cooling system. The car only had 110k on it and I see someone has already repaired the threads prior to me. Older BMWs are a nightmare in the wallet for most people.. There's a reason that a $40 thousand dollar car is only worth $3000 10 years later.
Oh i didnt mean that you were not mechanically inclined, most people cant turn a wrench, i dont run the ccv on any of the cars i maintain, my opinion of the pulled head bolts is that it usually does that instead of cracking the head, so ill take a $26 set of time serts instead of a $500 head, you can get all the cooling items you need for about $150 or less, the regulators are soo cheap to buy the average price is around $21 per regulator and they are soo easy to put in, alot of times i buy them in sets of 4 for $90 without motors , i really think the price went dow because shops charge crazy money to fix them, they really are not bad cars , but like i said when i get them i put a couple hundred dollars into them to knock out al the potential problems before they happen although i think i am done with buying $500 e46's that chassis has far more problems and they are small and ride rough, and the subframe problem is soo shitty to deal with, in my opinion the e46 is the worst bmw, also on the trans the gm transmission breaks the reverse drum and the zf int near as common, keep the fluid changed in the zf every 50k miles and dont floor it when its below operating temp and the zf is a very good trans capable of well over 300k mies
Nathan's DIY Garage Lets be for real here. Replacing the radiator, thermostat, water pump, upper and lower rad hoses, fan clutch, fan, transmission thermostat, recovery tank, both plastic cooling hoses on the side of the block, the heater hoses and return to the tank, recovery tank mounting plate and the remaining fittings/y pipes along with the temp sensor and switch will certainly not be $150 bucks even if you bought the crappiest made from used Chinese condoms discounted ebay items. A Behr radiator alone is around $120. I wouldn't touch any $20 buck Chinese regulators. Half of them come broken out of the box and fit poorly. Who wants to replace the same regulators every 6 months. The early E46s had chassis cracking problems, but they worked that out later on. The ride quality is decent in them, perhaps you got a hold of one that some tuner messed the suspension up on. I agree the E39 is more comfortable and better traveling car. My wife said she likes the zippyness of the more compact E46 for local driving and we take the E39 on trips. All that said, I still prefer to take my Silverado that has 260k miles on it for most trips. The only parts I have replaced on it is tires, brakes and 1 water pump.
I use to buy alot of corvettes and build alot of sbc's, im glad that chapter in my life is over, maybe you have that many miles on that truck but if you have not already replaced everything twice you are on borrowed time BIG TIME, i pull my car hauler several times a week with 4k pound plus cars long distances i dont use chevy fords or dodges because i have owned those and they just simply dont hold up, i use a 2002 toyota sequoia with 372k miles on it , i do videos on it sometimes, it has only had 2 oxygen sensors and ball joints at 305k miles, everything else is stock, i could see your chevy argument if i have never owned them but i have and thats not where it is at trust me, not to sound like an ass but i know better than to buy into that.
Quick recommendation when drilling next to sensitive areas: clean the block's surface well and then use duct tape to cover/seal the openings where you do not want metal shavings in, i.e. cylinder bores, water and oil passages... The debris just slide right off... when you are done drilling, just remove the duct tape...
just to let everyone know,the time serts all worked great. I replaced all the holes. The cars back together and running and driven with no problems! Thx to these videos ,or else the car would of most likely been junked!
This is super helpful video. May I suggest some things to supplement the content: once the tap is started about 6 threads deep, I recommend reversing the tap one-half turn after every full forward revolution to break off the chip. I have seen aluminum chips bind up in the tap flutes and cause some outward thrust to the walls of the hole. (I have also seen guys put the tap in the drill to drive it through the hole thinking it's no big deal because the aluminum is soft. This is a terrible idea). On small powersports engines this out-thrust can crack a part or a water jacket, and in an engine block I'm certain the same thing could happen, and you'd never be able to tell until its too late. On a deep vertical hole like this I also like to remove the tap at the half-way point and clear out the chips. Some chips fall to the bottom of the hole and get compressed by the tap. The vac will not suck them out. I use a pick tool to dislodge the chips, and check with a light to ensure the hole is fully bottomed. Keep up the great work!
Glad I watched this, I just bought a 2011 bmw 328i in beautiful shape, only 80k miles, blown headgasket. Im happy to see that this is possible to do with the engine in the car.
This video is worth its length in gold, thank you Nathan for taking the time to share this!!!
I sure do like your channel and everything you post. Its just getting better and better. You've really equipped me with some skills.
2:19 why risk shavings going into the engine. when i did mine i covered the whole block with masking tape except for the hole i was working on. Aluminum foil would also work well. It doesn't take long and it's extra piece of mind.
Thanks for video great confidence builder on doing this job.
Please consider taping off the top the block then cutting out holes out around the timesert installation work area.
Sir, your a real gentlemen , BLESSINGS TO YOU AND THANK-YOU VERY MUCH !!
You can also use M11x1.5x30mm and VAG/Seat AAE headbolts, Elring part: 302.250. I do this on all my M52/M54 blocks, also good if you are going forced induction.
thank you wery much, you saved me
Nathan ,I think my BMW 330CI Head Gasket (Blowing Coolant out of Cap) has gone. I know your video dates back to 2015 but it is now very helpful. Keep the your videos coming mate. Enjoy them. Thank you. Cheers from Garry
Hi Nathan, First of all I want to congratulate you on your videos, you make it look so simple! I am getting ready to tork down a cylinder head on an E46 M54 2001 Doube Vanos. The head was send to the machine shop and came back perfect. I had to pull it out, because, the gasket was broken between cylenders 4, 5 & 6 I found these out due to a compression test that showed 65 +/- in all of these cylinders. The rest of the cylinders showed 175 each. Need is to said, that no overheating or oil in the water or water in the oil was to be found. The car has 160 thousand milles and after many years i gaved to my 19 year old son. My question is out of curiosity, is this a common mechanical fail in these model? I am appealing to your knowledge in these particular cars.Also, I have puchase a "Torque Angle Gauge" since I need to torque the head back. I cannot find much info about torque specifications and , since I am an old timer, are not familiar with these procedures. Some peole said is 22ft Pounds and 90 Degrees two times. Others 30ft pounds and 90 degrees twise also. Can you please help me on these specifications? will appreciate greatly.Thanks again, Marco from Montreal Canada.
+Marco Quiroga hello go to my facebook page and send me your phone number in a Private message there are some things you need to look out for before you torque that head
Nice video, Nathan, I would like to add some interesting info for the Forced Induction fans: There is room for a little bit longer timesert, I dont remember the max size but its easy to find. The idea is that if you timesert an M54/m52TU block using the longest inserts possible it bocomes a block strong as M50, but lighter and equipped with better cylinder head. (M52tu and M54 have cast iron sleeves ;) )
+Konstantin Djelebov I guess head studs would be the best but i do not know if you can still get the head on without taking the engine out
If you are installing the longest timeserts and head studs, I'm sure that you would have reasons to take your m54/m52tu out for some other improvements in the block :D
Well presented. Very helpful.
Place clean shop towels into the cylinder holes, then tape the deck to cover all the holes. Also, use a tap wrench instead of a ratchet and go back and forth. This will clean the threads as you go. Use tap cutter oil instead of wd-40
I have a 2002 325Ci, I believe it is an M54 Engine. The head Is currently at the machine shop, they told me I will need to buy the thicker (+3) 1mm head gasket because of how much it is warped. Some of the threads in the block feel mushy so I decided to purchase M10X1.50X24.5 Time-Serts and a kit with Time-Sert tools. Here are my questions about this: Do I need to chamfer the head with this engine? How do I remove the alignment dowels? Do I need to counter bore (the tool does not seem to fit properly in some holes)? Did I get the correct Time-Serts? I sent you a message on FB with my phone number, if you could help me I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you for your great videos!
As good as this video was, (and it is very good), I believe this engine was finally replaced by Nathan after one or more of the first timeserts started to pull out of the block, and he had to put in the Bigserts, which, (and correct me if I'm wrong), held, but then there was a rod failure?
I suffered a catastrophic radiator failure on the Autobahn, travelling about 160kph in my 528i Touring. My head was warped by overheating, (don't you wish there were an audible alarm when something like that happens?), which pulled a couple of bolts from the block. Now, if I had the time, tools, and a place to work (of which I had none), I'd certainly consider trying out the Timeserts. The cost is relatively modest, and it would be worth a try. However, once the heads and block overheat, the molecular composition of the alloy can be compromised (or so I have been told), making the use of inserts sort of dicey. Besides that, there may have been other engine damage.
So, as I have an independent mechanic (actually, a ex-BMW Meister who opened his own shop) who has taken care of my car since it went out of warranty, I decided to go with a used engine with 107,000km. My car has 250,000, BTW. The new (to me) engine has a three month warranty that covers the costs of installation and transport of another engine, and I trust my guy to make sure that everything is in order, and to replace everything that needs to be replaced at this mileage level, including upgraded VANOS and cooling system components. In the end, I expect to pay about 4,000 Euros for everything. That may seem like a lot, since there are many E39's that can be purchased for that. Thing is, I bought mine new in Texas in 2000, and have taken excellent care of it. I moved it to Germany in 2008, and there is not a spot of rust anywhere. Suspension components/window regulators, etc. have been replaced as necessary, and the car RAN amazingly well before the incident. So, I know this car, and the cost is worth it to me.
Though I could easily afford it, I've no interest in a newer one. The E60 is something I'd stay far away from, and frankly, in the E39 era, BMW created their most beautiful sedans and wagons. I find everything since then to be stomach turning.
But again, nothing but Kudos to Nathan. I also appreciate his reliability videos on the E39. It gave me a good list of things to make sure my mechanic is replacing.
Thanks Nathan.
Hey Nathan, thanks for the video and the link to buy the Timeserts.
+Antonio Di Cappo No problem its really bot hard to do, you can use a small battery impact to run the tap if you are careful .
Is a head gasket failure or the preventive replacement of the head gasket something that mechanics just avoid by claiming that the blocks aluminum threads are too soft to handle another round of head bolt torqueing? I've asked a dozen BMW mechanics and got the same answer everytime. Can be retorqued...gonna have to just by another used engine. I'm on my 3rd e46 despite my last two 325s having a head gasket failure and overheating
You can replace but most of the time you can use the old ones if they come out easy
Hi Nate...you are an inspiration for me as I’m a new bmw owner...your video on the timecerts is informative..but there is a better install of the process...The way you drill and tap is problematic at best as there is no guide to insure the perpendicularly of your process
Years ago working for another engine builder five of the head bolt holes on a big block Chevy pulled out.
After pulling cyl head off ..turning engine upside down as it was fully assembled.....being very careful I got heli coil installed....but this engine had studs and the very slight misalignment of the insert did not let the head go on very easily as the stud now was not straight.
I developed a tool that uses drill guide bushings for the drill bit and the tap.
What a difference..always straight
Also if you put grease in the flutes of tap the chips will get collected in the grease
thank you I'll look them up
HEY NATHANS. DO YOU KNOW WHATS THE DIAMETER FOR THE DOWEL PINS ON THE ENGINE BLOCK M52 ENGINE BMW 1998 528I?
Do you have a video of removing the head from the block?
When I ordered new head bolts they were longer than oem will the new head bolts work or are they too long
Hey really like your vids. I got a question. My 2005 325xi block... I'm checking for flatness on the block and noticed that in between each cylinder, in the very middle, the piston sleeves are not flush with the block. They are on the top and bottom of the block. Just in the middle they are about a 16th of an inch. They are uniform all the way across in the hight. Is this normal or do I have a problem.??? Thanks for your help...
hie Nathan can you help with an idea, i`m in Zimbabwe down in Southern Africa. My M54 head is said to have been over skimmed and was pressure tested results came out good, is there anything i can do rather to buy a new one?
Hi Adam, how did your issue go?
Nathan , i bought a bmw 525i 2002 with no reverse and rebuilded the transmission , it was good for 4 months , changed the oil periodically than it left me stuck on the highway cs it overheated , i towed the car tom the shop and the nightmare started, radiator was replaced , fan clutch, coolant pipe, head gasket , engine head cracked comes to 3400$ , my question is after all this is being done , should i be worry about anything else going bad ? replaced thermostat and water pump also thanks
is this correct?
M10 X 1.5 X 24.5MM
Good work
I suppose if you mess up one of the time serts you could just purchase bigger threaded head bolts? Providing they fit in the holes through the head.
+Mrdubomb I dont know but that s something that i probably should look into, im guessing you can buy bigger certs again i dont know
good stuff! thanks for sharing that!🖒🖒🖒
Nathan what the lengh of a head bolt on M54 engine?
Nathan what about the 2 holes with the alignment dowels? remove them or just install the sert just like the other holes?????
Scotty what did you do with those the same that with the other ones??
Nathan ,what do you think of Akins post? VW, head bolts? I wanna try it,for quick fix. Nervous to make screw things up worse, but it could save alot of time and money!
It is whatever you prefer to do but you will have to do all the bolts not just a few, the time serts are $26, i have never done the diesel bolts but they should work as long as the length is right
why green loctite? i heard to use red, supposed to be strongest.
Do you have a link/source for the inserts?
What size time sert did you use? Thanks.
Hi Nathan, I could really use some good advice before I throw away a bunch of money. I bought a 2004 330i with head gasket blow for cheap, thinking it would be a good deal. Found out the head had a small crack - eh, still worth it. But then I found out about the common block thread issue. I'm trying to decide if it's worth the risk if I spend the money to get another head. I've heard from several bmw mechanics, that if I do get the bolts to torque with time certs, they eventually pull out.
I'm really stuck. I want the car purchase to be a waste, but I don't want to waste even more money on a hopeless fix. Help!
What size is that drill bit and can I use it on a 2001 x5?
Hi mate
What's they call it or how can i find that's thinks
Where can you find M52TU engines for 500$? I have a blown head gasket in my 2000 528i. I only drive it 1 mile while puffing white smoke. I’m not sure if it’s warped or cracked… been sitting for almost a year..
Should I replace the ones that only pulled out or all of the threads ? Since we are talking about aluminum block
All of them will need new serts, use the big serts that are 2 sizes bigger
Nathan ,I'm gonna call you! when's a good time?
the reason I asked how you got the old threads out was bc the bmw engine's block has already had timesert put in it and they have stripped out and some of the bottom of the holes no longer exist. is it possible to buy bigger t imeserts and tap them in or what would u suggest? I did not expect this at all.
+Mark Moore It is for sure possible to get bigger serts but i have not looked into it, i would think you could use a "easy out" that you would use to remove a broken bolt to get the threads out
This must be great for boost!
+kanneebannee They are pretty strong but studs would be stronger
studs are non expanding coefficient to the original
So trying to get this all correct for the time serts.
Erwin Tap- 12mm 1.50 thread pitch
Drill bit- 27/64
Time Sert- ????
Green lock tight
scott pm me on facebook and ill send you my number
Nathan's DIY Garage Nathan, help me please
I need to use time serts on my bmw 2001 330i M54 block
can you write what I will need?
14 inserts 24.5 mm in length right, 28$ on eBay, I got that
what else do I need?
there's a ridiculous kit on eBay for 400$
I'd rather save money by buying the kit parts separately.. .
Nathan, please
.. .
hey Nathan, would you rethread all the threads on the head gasket and put timesert in them or just the ones that are stripped?
+Mark Moore You must do all the holes
Those who have tried this method, did you have to use the "special tool" to set/lock the internal thread on the time sert? Does the bolt cut these threads? If so did you use an old head bolt or could a person use a 10x1.5 tap to set the insert. Thank you.
either or works good its like 2 threads only so its pretty easy to just shove the bolt down
Thanks for the response. My time serts should be here Friday.
This is why I prefer M50
Thanks for the vid.
How do I chamfer the holes? Do I want to chamfer the block or the head? Or does it matter?
+liontitties get a counter drill bit, I just got one at menards for less that $3, counter drill the block
oh cool thanks. What size counter bore should I get? Also what size installation tool to install the time serts? I found a kit with all the tools but it's $86. I assume much cheaper to buy tools individually
Had several head bolts that were stripped. I was just told by a BMW mechanic that if I do this (add time-serts) it will weaken the block. Is this true, sounds like BS to me, but I thought I'd ask
good old bmw techs wanna sell you another motor and junk yours
Hey @Nathan, Do you replace the dowels after performing the time sert service?
Galen, what did you do about the dowels?
ok thanks. I just noticed that all are stripped but about 4. ill go ahead and do all of them like u suggest. also, the timesert on ebay are 10×1.5 25mm is this correct? bc they dont sell any other ones.great videos!
+Mark Moore Yes that is correct, i got the last set off amazon with a victor reinz head gasket for about $70 total, dont forget not to seal the valve cover at first so you can go back in after a hour or so of run time and re-torque the head bolts, they will be loose, also 55lbs is really al the tighter you need the head bolts
The Chilton book says 30lbs and then go back twice and do another 90 degrees. Anyways, your saying " do it in sequence at 55lbs and then after a hour, go back and retighten them? Also, how do I get the old thread inserts out? Thanks soo, much for helping.I just had to pull the head with the exhaust manifold on it out the car. I thought I wasn't going to be able to do it and I will definitely need to use a engine hoist to put it back in by myself soo I wont mess up the gasket unless you know a way around that?
I go 3 stages of tight, usually 20lbs the first 40 the seconds and 55 the third tightening from the middle out, if the old time certs are good leave them in it
83.2 ft:lbs to 95 ft:lbs for racing with these specifications of inline six which are prone to blow by and related contourtion right on cylinder 2 and 3
I usually prefer horse power freaks' s54 b30 1200hp motor building conditions
excllent video @nathan
Nathan I have a 1998 bmw z3 roaster 2.8 motor. Do you think this part will fit in the my block.??
Hello, your car does not have the issue
what do you do about the 4 smaller headbolts at each end of the head, Im doing a job on an n51 and Im kinda confused by these kits as they all only come with m-10 1.5 inserts, do you just not retap the smaller diameter bolts? or do you bore up to the much larger M-10/ 1.5?
They don't need doing, only the main clamping blots around the cylinders. It's not as easy as it looks doing this with the engine in place. You will have problems with the drill not aligning correctly at the firewall side of the engine. It's critical to get the threads straight in the block or you risk rupturing the water jackets. After drilling the old threads out you should also counterbore each hole with a 12.5mm drill bit to a depth of 4mm for the top of the time-serts to seat into.
@@arnolduk123 So you only do the inner 10? On the N51 the 4 outer ones are smaller, 1 in each corner that seal around the end cylinders. I havent been able to fins any info on this anywhere
@@Thedeaconoftrade Well I'm not sure about the N51 engine. I was talking about the M54 engine and these tend to pull threads on the middle 3 cylinders (3,4,5) bottom exhaust side threads usually go first. When an engine warps from overheating it is usualy the middle cylinders and the end cylinders are usually unaffected if that helps.
@@arnolduk123 Interesting, maybe I wouldnt have to do the end bolts on mine then. Thanks
by the way I'm a diy type of person I have worked on many Toyotas, and Hondas but this is my first bmw.
any help will be appreciated.
tnx.
+MrOriuk79 All the videos are up on my channel there is just not one that cover it all, in one video, you will need the timing tool kit and time serts if its a m52tu or m54
How much does a job like this cost ?
Akin, are you serious? you installed them in the stripped out ones?
i use helicoil
what size tap and time serts - m10x1.5 or m12x1.5?
+Adam P The inserts are m12x1.50 and the drill bit is 27/64 and of course the tap is m12x1.50
+Nathan's DIY Garage ok thanks - what head bolts? because my standard ones are too small for the inserts - the insert just slides over them, doesnt thread on because its too big. where can i get appropriate size cylinder head bolts?
the standard head bolts, the exterior of the inserts are 12mm the inside are still 10mm
something has to be wrong with the inserts i have because the inside is definitely larger than 10mm - they slide right over the head bolt. you can easily pull them on and off of the bolt. the inserts i purchased are Hoerr Racing Products Time-Sert part no. 12155, size M12 x 1.5 x 24.0
www.amazon.com/M10x1-5x24-5mm-Time-Sert-head-bolt-10155/dp/B00IPMR4B8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1455833926&sr=8-1&keywords=bmw+head+bolt+inserts
small leak*
I'm not 100% sure but I don't think your supposed to drill any part from the head. the time sert are supposed to sit 6mm deeper flush to the block
+Max Hanna I like doing it this way because its hard to use the locator dowl's so this way the serts act as locators for the head
Ah I got ya
You're supposed to countersink around the hole so that the timesert can sit flush with the surface, the kits come with the correct tap and counterbore bit: www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html
Man you do a lot of really helpful videos but this is NOT how to install these things on this car. The lip that sticks up on the block that "nobody tells you about" shouldn't exist at all because your supposed to use a counter sink bit after you drill the first hole and before you tap the threads so that it finishes slightly below the deck surface. Training video here ruclips.net/video/ggz8AguYtKM/видео.html Doing the inserts after watching your video first has made lots of extra work on this job. I've have to drill a counter sink into my head on all the holes too small for the lip to fit over so that it will lay flat. I've had to recess the head side of the holes for line up dowels also. Also, the bolt holes in the gasket don't fit over the lip that sticks up from the inserts so I've got a long careful date with a round file wile crossing my fingers I don't ruin my head gasket. Had I watched the actual training instruction on these I would have just been able to bolt it on. Don't take me wrong, I'm not hating-I love your videos and they've been a ton of help. Maybe this is new info for you, it sure was for me!
You claim that another engine is a thousands of dollars I've I've gone on eBay and I've never seen it thousands of dollars I've seen the most $900 and I don't know almost grand and of course I've I've seen some for about 14 or maybe 15 other than that oh and those engines have low miles is it possible that or is it if I was to do this pick up another engine that is do I have to do anything with the computer as long as it's the same model anything
You're supposed to chamfer the block so the sert sits flush inside it! you dont want it protruding out and into the head....
+dayyou It seems like only the m52tu does that, the m54 always clears, at this point i have done so many of them prefer the serts no to clear and to chamfer the head so they act as locating dowels so you know your in the correct location
Nils Jakobson At the top of the sert where the flair is the threads do not go to the top, you ca counter sink them into the head or block its your preference, like them to slightly stick up that way it will hold the head in place when installing it.
и чё????
+олег кудрявцев Hello im sorry i do not speak Russian can you please translate?
I like how BMWs look and drive but they are awful for long term reliability because of how they are designed. I had a e36 that the engine blew a head gasket because the plastic impeller broke off the water pump. I have a e39 that the valves got bent in because the plastic timing chain guide broke without warning. The ccv went bad and caused all sorts of problems. I bought a e46 with all the head bolt threads pulled out from an overheat. BMW are engineering marvels but are horrible once they get age on them because of all the plastic usage. The cooling systems are a joke.
+Wipsplash Well i have mastered all of those problems so fixing them is very easy for me , i always say that someone that is not mechanically inclined has to business owning a used car, i think they are easy because everything is fixable, unlike the cheap cars and trucks gm, dodge, and ford put out today, it cost me $100 to do a thread repair on the m62tu and m54 engines, and another $100 to get the car reliable again , and those are items it only needs as it gets around 200k miles, we sold my girlfriends cobalt last year with 65k miles because it was unfixable junk and was falling apart faster than i could put it together,she now drives a 03 e39 i bought for $800 and is a completely reliable daily, so i guess it depends on how you look at bmw and its competition, compared to others i think they are pretty good cars.
I'm mechanically inclined just fine as my rebuilt E39 4L30E transmission and E46 M54 engine demonstrates. I stand by my comment that most BMWs have excessive use of plastic and are designed in a poor manner for reliability. My other vehicles have no CCV that will fill the cylinders with oil when it goes bad. I have no other vehicles that pull head bolts straight out of the block when the head overheats. My other vehicles don't have $1000 dollars worth of cooling system components that need to be changed out every 5 years. BMW window regulators are a joke. How about E39 cup holders, you think that's an awesome design? The ZF 5HP19 trans is known to have premature reverse drum failures in vehicles with even under 50k. I'm not bitter because I had my car break. I bought my 330i on the cheap with stripped head bolts. I repaired the head bolt threads and rebuilt the engine with all internals and complete cooling system. The car only had 110k on it and I see someone has already repaired the threads prior to me. Older BMWs are a nightmare in the wallet for most people.. There's a reason that a $40 thousand dollar car is only worth $3000 10 years later.
Oh i didnt mean that you were not mechanically inclined, most people cant turn a wrench, i dont run the ccv on any of the cars i maintain, my opinion of the pulled head bolts is that it usually does that instead of cracking the head, so ill take a $26 set of time serts instead of a $500 head, you can get all the cooling items you need for about $150 or less, the regulators are soo cheap to buy the average price is around $21 per regulator and they are soo easy to put in, alot of times i buy them in sets of 4 for $90 without motors , i really think the price went dow because shops charge crazy money to fix them, they really are not bad cars , but like i said when i get them i put a couple hundred dollars into them to knock out al the potential problems before they happen although i think i am done with buying $500 e46's that chassis has far more problems and they are small and ride rough, and the subframe problem is soo shitty to deal with, in my opinion the e46 is the worst bmw, also on the trans the gm transmission breaks the reverse drum and the zf int near as common, keep the fluid changed in the zf every 50k miles and dont floor it when its below operating temp and the zf is a very good trans capable of well over 300k mies
Nathan's DIY Garage
Lets be for real here. Replacing the radiator, thermostat, water pump, upper and lower rad hoses, fan clutch, fan, transmission thermostat, recovery tank, both plastic cooling hoses on the side of the block, the heater hoses and return to the tank, recovery tank mounting plate and the remaining fittings/y pipes along with the temp sensor and switch will certainly not be $150 bucks even if you bought the crappiest made from used Chinese condoms discounted ebay items. A Behr radiator alone is around $120. I wouldn't touch any $20 buck Chinese regulators. Half of them come broken out of the box and fit poorly. Who wants to replace the same regulators every 6 months. The early E46s had chassis cracking problems, but they worked that out later on. The ride quality is decent in them, perhaps you got a hold of one that some tuner messed the suspension up on. I agree the E39 is more comfortable and better traveling car. My wife said she likes the zippyness of the more compact E46 for local driving and we take the E39 on trips. All that said, I still prefer to take my Silverado that has 260k miles on it for most trips. The only parts I have replaced on it is tires, brakes and 1 water pump.
I use to buy alot of corvettes and build alot of sbc's, im glad that chapter in my life is over, maybe you have that many miles on that truck but if you have not already replaced everything twice you are on borrowed time BIG TIME, i pull my car hauler several times a week with 4k pound plus cars long distances i dont use chevy fords or dodges because i have owned those and they just simply dont hold up, i use a 2002 toyota sequoia with 372k miles on it , i do videos on it sometimes, it has only had 2 oxygen sensors and ball joints at 305k miles, everything else is stock, i could see your chevy argument if i have never owned them but i have and thats not where it is at trust me, not to sound like an ass but i know better than to buy into that.