As A first timer in attempting that skill, I was impressed on how easy you made it look. Took me awhile to get it all done . I suppose next time will be easier. But thank you for sharing your skills. without this video I am pretty sure I would have made a hash of the job. look forward to more help. once again thanks for sharing.
nice work. i'm also a fan of oversizing and marking in situ instead of trying to cut it to size first time. one question though... at 24:55 you didn't show the perpendicular scribe for the return which looks nowhere near 90... when cutting the large rectangle out did you leave a strip of "meat" on the end to scribe that perpendicular line or use a bevel guage?
Nice one Ben. Just about to box in a fuse board in my garden cabin, so extremely useful. As I will need full access to the board, so I'm magnetising the box so it pulls away easily but thanks to you I've invested in a laser to save time and effort on this and the multitude of other jobs on my "To Do" list!
Good video. I have been using the button fixes so that you can take the top off easily and don't have to have any screw holes in the top. Really easy to fit and super strong too.
Some customers have no idea...if it was my place, a window seat/ storage that can be pulled forward is a no brainer. Best regards to all, frankie, heritage carpenter in Sussex
I kept thinking of ways I'd do it faster and easier, but I enjoyed learning your approach. Laser is very needed and so it the compass.keep up the good work mate!
Surely fixing a structural element to a floating floor isn't ideal. I'd have cut out the flooring so that batten could attach to the subfloor and allow room for an expansion gap between it and the pipework...
I too am a retired joiner,wow that was an ordeal watching you do that boxing!The reliance on a laser of all things ,can you not use a level? I would have measured up made the whole lot outside slightly oversize then brought it in and scribed it! I too would’ve used an access panel but never dreamed of cutting it “after” you fitted the boxing! one slip and you could’ve sliced the pipe! The garden chimes were irritating big time Lol
Everyone does it differently. I go for accuracy over speed but appreciate that you may go for speed, a lot of carpenters do. There was no way I could of slipped and cut a pipe unless I had no control at all! The pipe was a long way back and the blade wouldn't even reach it. The access hatch was put in after because it was delivered late 👍
If you think a laser level is less accurate than using a spirit level then you skipped physics at school. I've used mine for way more than I ever dreamt I would. But yes, still love my Stabilos.
Even the pro's make mistakes, I noticed you cut the top short and said it didn't look right with a bullnose going into the door facings, but had another bit cut when routing the bullnose to finish the job, don't be embarrassed bud it's good to let folk know that we all mess up sometimes, so people starting out don't get put off seeing flawless jobs online so think they are bad when they mess up and give up on wood work etc thinking they must be crap because they keep making mistakes. Let folk know it's okay and it takes practice. Good video, I personally don't use MDF much at all but ply wood has gone down so much in quality lately I'm thinking yo use more mdf for my work.
Hi Gary. Thanks for watching. Here is a link to my amazon shop with the laser in it. If you buy through my shop it will help me fund the channel. 👍 www.amazon.co.uk/shop/builtbyben/list/16FHOS4VLRNB9?ref_=cm_sw_r_mwn_aipsflist_aipsfbuiltbyben_QRJBTJA2PTRTJYPCGDY6
I have recently discovered "tapons", they are a screw designed to go into masonry, without the need to insert rawl plugs or toggles. have you used them before, what are your thoughts on them. Cheers.
You made this look so much more difficult than it needed to be. Just because you have a laser doesn't mean you need to use it for every tiny task. There were times where you needed 4 hands and a level would have been adequate. It looked nice either way
See you two are showing your true colours here. Everyone just uses a laser nowadays. Only bodge job old guys use bubbles. Use it on everything from doors to trusses.
Your a brave man using the multi tool to cut the hole out for the vent knowing there may of been a gas main behind it. Why didnt you do it earlier prior the fitting?.
Thank you Ben very much. Very informative and well produced, good sound and perspectives. Its relatively easy to film something and put it up on YT, but you have delivered a simple and well thought out lesson which, as you say, is difficult to get right and looking good. I learned a lot. Im a DIYer renovating a house in France - you have motivated me to get and learn to use a laser level!
Nice to hear Adrian. Laser levels allow you to be so much more precise especially when levelling across a room. If you do want to purchase one I have put a link to mine on my amazon shop 👍
@@BuiltByBen-YT yeah handy things .I got one that's 3 way 360° and so usefull for certain things like transferring a specific spot level from floor to ceiling and affordable now
Not sure if the perspective and camera angle has distorted the image, but the edge of the little overhang on the door architrave seems to not be running parallel to the surface of the wall. Did you gauge the angle of the walls with a sliding bevel? Shouldn't you have built the box square and then scribed in to the angle?
I offered for it to be the window cill level but with that came a little more expense to either chop the old board out and put one big one on or to join the new one to the front as seamless as possible but with budget in mind the customer went fit this a they saw no advantage in the 1st options
Thanks! I'd never seen a lazer level used before! Now ordered myself one. As a nervous novice I would have loved you showinh each saw, and each setting and blade etc, same with the router it would have been nice to have tuition on that covered also. Those wind chimes were damn annoying! 😂
You demonstrated and explained clearly. You shared know how. For me its not really about showing off cleverness. More about teaching. And you scored well in that. Thanks.
I reckon you forgot to measure the 15mm and cut to the original line and improvised at point of realisation 27.49 so the video wasn’t ruined but your perfectionism wouldn’t cut you a break?
Cool video. A few small deviations from the way i do boxing in, of a similar ilk. That's not a criticism of your work, which is plumb and true. I just do it 'slightly differently'. I would have used 'pinch' clips to hold the lid on, and left the 15mm over hang, near the door architrave, on. Also, make sure to use your G clamps in future, when using your palm router. Seen a fellow joiner have a rather horrific accident, routing whilst not having the work piece secured.i I don't want to come across all 'belt and braces'. I'm retired now, due to ill health, and you are clearly a very good young joiner/carpenter. I would just rather see your future videos, with you fully intact 👍
Yea I don't see it being too much of a problem. I only did to it and not all the way through so there is still some flexibility there. Its still fine to this day 😌
Can't believe how many tradesmen on hear don't use a self leveling laser. Such a brilliant tool for so many applications. The prices for these don't start at high cost unless you go for sophisticated ones with angles and tripods etc
I'm no pro joiner but any 'boxing in' work I've done is to make the whole thing moveable, definitely where it covers access to pipework/electrics etc. Just a couple of screws to be removed for complete access. I don't have laser levels so it's all spirit gear .
Freezing cold water passes through pipes and there is always condensation on the pipe when it reaches the warm house. If the wood is touching it the water soaks in to it
Hi Ben. I've a question regarding Your festool extractor with makita palm sander. I'm using the same combo, but how did you get the extractor to cut off power when working with the cordless tool? Am I missing something?
It's all smoke and mirrors! There is a festool bluetooth button you can buy for the end of the hose. Saves your back bending down everything. I absolutely love it! Especially when chopping locks in doors so you don't need the hoover in the room with you
This is my first video of yours i have watched. i like to watch joinery videos to learn from and your videos are amazing. you cover everything in the video and missed nothing out. you have explained everything in detail about what your doing and how your doing it. keep the good work up and more videos like this. wished i worked for you. i would learn a lot.
Thanks for the video. One thing I need to raise, I am a gas engineer and gas supply pipes when boxed in need ventilation sized depending on the size of the void created. If you want the details let me know.
Nicely done, is the price of the moisture resitant mdf much more then the normal stuff ? Also Is it same as normal i.e. dulls the tools fast too? I generally dont like mdf for this reason and the dust that comes out of it...
It's marginally dearer but not enough to put me off because the benefits are great. Paints up better aswell. It does blunt blades but I price a new blade in to each job so no worries really
easest job i ever had was boxing in pipes at mental health hospitals and there was a lot. Set up in the car parks with a generator and loads of MDF. MDF is so forgiving and easy to work with..but always use corner blocks out of wood or more mdf and screw and glue if you want it strong, as screwing down the end is crap.
Useful video! I would have put the hatch with either the flap opening down, or left or right, not up which makes it awkward to access as you can't really see without it being fully open and it could easily fall down.
Spoilt by the plastic access panel. it woul have been neater to use the mdf cutout as an access panel, a strip of ply around the edge to prevent it falling in and turn button/catches to secure it. when painted it would blend-in far better.
Theres a continuity error here... when laying the top board you were going to have a 15mm edging all round, then at 28 10 you showed a flush fit so it didn't overhang the door frame, then when your routing and sanding outside and laying the board at 29.43 the 15mm edge is back... does look much better with it.....good job
Interesting video and informative use of the laser! And, at last, someone using metric measurements, so frustrating to see, especially younger people, using clumsy imperial measurements! I've been using MDF screws for over twenty years now, definitely worth using, as you say less chance of splitting, because of the thin shaft, and really good grip, because of the the deep and sharp thread. Not sure what happened between 27mins and 29mins though, first you say you've decided to finish the end off flush but then you show an overhang?
Ben, when using MDF beware of the health issues with its fine dust such as when you were cutting the access hatch. A simple dust mask will protect you.
First thing id do is cut those pipes off, replaster the damage. then lower the new popes to skirting level then do a skirting level box section to cover them all. No need for half wall height boxing
Each to their own, I've been a chippy for over 25 years I wouldn't use a laser in this scenario it's too much faffing about, much easier and quicker with a normal level. That job should take no longer than an hour to complete tops! I've seen a lot of people over the years over complicate jobs that are basically straight forward and then get every tool out of the van that they own to complete it, a lot of the time it's not necessary, it just ends up costing the customer a fortune in labour due to the time it takes. Just my opinion of course.
@@BuiltByBen-YT sorry mate I wasn't trying to criticize your work as that's the easiest thing in the world for anyone to do. I appreciate that you're putting it out there for people that may not know 👍
This one was part of a much bigger job so only charged around £180 all in. But if it was a job by itself with nothing else to do it would probably have to be around £300.
The scribing on the top piece didn’t look much, until you bought it outside. That’s some terrible plastering!! You did a great job - looks neat and adds character.
Yes mate. Part of the reason it was so high was to hide more of that rubbish plaster work. It got worse the further it went down. Cheers for watching 👍
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
This taught me an invaluable skill regarding scribing and setting the width to the amount you want to remove from the board. So simple but genius.
Thanks Callum. Yea it's always worked for me 👍
Use a square to if you're anal like me haha
Really like the job you did there.
First job for me would have been to take down that wind chime😂
🤣🤣 they are definitely a marmite kind of thing
What is it with wind-chimes; who wants to make a rowdy night even noisier?!?
Nice to see someone taking a bit of pride in their work. Appreciate the time taken to get it all square and level, plus the scribing. Sub'd.
Thanks Gary. 👍
Rare thing these days
Very nice! The details are clear and precise.
As A first timer in attempting that skill, I was impressed on how easy you made it look. Took me awhile to get it all done . I suppose next time will be easier. But thank you for sharing your skills. without this video I am pretty sure I would have made a hash of the job. look forward to more help. once again thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching David. Glad I could help. 👍
nice work. i'm also a fan of oversizing and marking in situ instead of trying to cut it to size first time. one question though... at 24:55 you didn't show the perpendicular scribe for the return which looks nowhere near 90... when cutting the large rectangle out did you leave a strip of "meat" on the end to scribe that perpendicular line or use a bevel guage?
Nice one Ben. Just about to box in a fuse board in my garden cabin, so extremely useful. As I will need full access to the board, so I'm magnetising the box so it pulls away easily but thanks to you I've invested in a laser to save time and effort on this and the multitude of other jobs on my "To Do" list!
Nice one mate 👍
Oh another great tip on the magnetic catch, thanks!
Good video. I have been using the button fixes so that you can take the top off easily and don't have to have any screw holes in the top. Really easy to fit and super strong too.
Some customers have no idea...if it was my place, a window seat/ storage that can be pulled forward is a no brainer. Best regards to all, frankie, heritage carpenter in Sussex
Yeah, or a shop-bought radiator cover attached with Kekus and fill/paint around it
Great job….those wind chimes really do your head in .
I kept thinking of ways I'd do it faster and easier, but I enjoyed learning your approach. Laser is very needed and so it the compass.keep up the good work mate!
Thanks James
I'm not entirely sure why this came up in my YT feed but I started watching and really enjoyed seeing your meticulous work methods. Really nice job. 😀
Thanks Linda
Surely fixing a structural element to a floating floor isn't ideal. I'd have cut out the flooring so that batten could attach to the subfloor and allow room for an expansion gap between it and the pipework...
Structural? It's only boxing in.
Nope your wrong , You would do what your paid to do not think what you want to do for yourself, big difference when it’s not your property !!
@@Alfiepops Exactly. Hence....DIY!
I too am a retired joiner,wow that was an ordeal watching you do that boxing!The reliance on a laser of all things ,can you not use a level? I would have measured up made the whole lot outside slightly oversize then brought it in and scribed it! I too would’ve used an access panel but never dreamed of cutting it “after” you fitted the boxing! one slip and you could’ve sliced the pipe! The garden chimes were irritating big time Lol
Everyone does it differently. I go for accuracy over speed but appreciate that you may go for speed, a lot of carpenters do. There was no way I could of slipped and cut a pipe unless I had no control at all! The pipe was a long way back and the blade wouldn't even reach it. The access hatch was put in after because it was delivered late 👍
If you think a laser level is less accurate than using a spirit level then you skipped physics at school. I've used mine for way more than I ever dreamt I would. But yes, still love my Stabilos.
There's no way that multi tool would have "sliced through the pipe" with one slip! 🤦♂️
Really good video how to do a great job good skills and a very confident tradesman! Ex chippy!
Back seat drivers don't you just love um😂😂
Even the pro's make mistakes, I noticed you cut the top short and said it didn't look right with a bullnose going into the door facings, but had another bit cut when routing the bullnose to finish the job, don't be embarrassed bud it's good to let folk know that we all mess up sometimes, so people starting out don't get put off seeing flawless jobs online so think they are bad when they mess up and give up on wood work etc thinking they must be crap because they keep making mistakes. Let folk know it's okay and it takes practice. Good video, I personally don't use MDF much at all but ply wood has gone down so much in quality lately I'm thinking yo use more mdf for my work.
Very tidy job thanks for taking the time to make it.what make laser did you use?.
Hi Gary. Thanks for watching. Here is a link to my amazon shop with the laser in it. If you buy through my shop it will help me fund the channel. 👍
www.amazon.co.uk/shop/builtbyben/list/16FHOS4VLRNB9?ref_=cm_sw_r_mwn_aipsflist_aipsfbuiltbyben_QRJBTJA2PTRTJYPCGDY6
a joy to watch reminds me of my late father
I have recently discovered "tapons", they are a screw designed to go into masonry, without the need to insert rawl plugs or toggles. have you used them before, what are your thoughts on them. Cheers.
Hi mate. No I havn't used them yet. But will give them a go soon maybe.
You made this look so much more difficult than it needed to be. Just because you have a laser doesn't mean you need to use it for every tiny task. There were times where you needed 4 hands and a level would have been adequate. It looked nice either way
Just because you have used a saw before doesnt mean you have to be a C*U*N*T
See you two are showing your true colours here. Everyone just uses a laser nowadays. Only bodge job old guys use bubbles. Use it on everything from doors to trusses.
You're quite right. Lasers are so much more accurate
Especially the villains in James bond movies they really love a laser
Are you taking piss ?
Did you change the top
Was flush to start with near the door frame
Then cam back and was protruding with a bullnose ?
Yes, just forgot to mention it in the video 👍
Very nice Ben enjoy seeing it for the first time, got home project I need to attend to will definitely carry same thing, thanks for this.
Was there a reason you cut the access hatch in at a later date? Everyone’s different but I’d usually cut it in at the same time as the main panel
We ordered it in amazon and it turned up late 👍
Your a brave man using the multi tool to cut the hole out for the vent knowing there may of been a gas main behind it. Why didnt you do it earlier prior the fitting?.
Thank you Ben very much. Very informative and well produced, good sound and perspectives. Its relatively easy to film something and put it up on YT, but you have delivered a simple and well thought out lesson which, as you say, is difficult to get right and looking good. I learned a lot. Im a DIYer renovating a house in France - you have motivated me to get and learn to use a laser level!
Nice to hear Adrian. Laser levels allow you to be so much more precise especially when levelling across a room.
If you do want to purchase one I have put a link to mine on my amazon shop 👍
@@BuiltByBen-YT yeah handy things .I got one that's 3 way 360° and so usefull for certain things like transferring a specific spot level from floor to ceiling and affordable now
@@ianthompson6288 they are so good
Excellent professional job.
Thank you😇
great video!
Thanks mate 👍
I learned two things Ben
1 How to box in pipes
2 how much I hate Bamboo Wind Chimes
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 at least you can now box in
3.) You don't need to measure when you have a lazer
Not sure if the perspective and camera angle has distorted the image, but the edge of the little overhang on the door architrave seems to not be running parallel to the surface of the wall. Did you gauge the angle of the walls with a sliding bevel? Shouldn't you have built the box square and then scribed in to the angle?
I can't remember Ian? Once it was all fitted I am pretty sure it was all square and even. Thanks for watching mate 👍
was all ready to say don't cover the compression fittings as they need to be serviceable. Then you installed a service hatch. perfect.
Thankyou mate 👍
should the reference for the level be the window sill? how do you make the choice?
I offered for it to be the window cill level but with that came a little more expense to either chop the old board out and put one big one on or to join the new one to the front as seamless as possible but with budget in mind the customer went fit this a they saw no advantage in the 1st options
how come the top is level with the side then you take it outside and use router and it then has an overhang ?
I just decided it looked better once I tried it but forgot to mention it 👌
Thanks! I'd never seen a lazer level used before! Now ordered myself one.
As a nervous novice I would have loved you showinh each saw, and each setting and blade etc, same with the router it would have been nice to have tuition on that covered also.
Those wind chimes were damn annoying! 😂
Lovely stuff. Please wear a mask though folks when working with MDF.
This is the best boxing in video on RUclips and I should know, I've watched 'em all.😉
Thanks 👍 I'm going to try and focus more on the tutorials on the coming months. Don't forget to subscribe 😉
@@BuiltByBen-YT 'll give a sub bud, why not eh👍
good to see you wearing safety specs etc
Thanks for sharing.
You demonstrated and explained clearly. You shared know how. For me its not really about showing off cleverness. More about teaching. And you scored well in that. Thanks.
Thank you. Kind words
Fantastic! Thanks! 🎸😃
love the fact all of a sudden there was a over hang on the return lol
what impact driver by Makita would you recommend?
Hi mate, I always go for the one with the most torque. If you look on most websites it will state what the torque is for each model
You cut the end flush what the customer wanted... but at the end the overhang was back. Did they change their mind or did it break
We changed our mind again. But forgot to edit that bit out 👍🤣
@@BuiltByBen-YT lol job looked good nice one.
I reckon you forgot to measure the 15mm and cut to the original line and improvised at point of realisation 27.49 so the video wasn’t ruined but your perfectionism wouldn’t cut you a break?
Yeh I rewatched that over three times thinking, what the heck is going on 😂
Hello Mate...... Nice job but (sorry theres often a but isnt there!) why didnt you mitre the corner so both panel edges met and better for the finish?
Cool video. A few small deviations from the way i do boxing in, of a similar ilk.
That's not a criticism of your work, which is plumb and true. I just do it 'slightly differently'.
I would have used 'pinch' clips to hold the lid on, and left the 15mm over hang, near the door architrave, on.
Also, make sure to use your G clamps in future, when using your palm router. Seen a fellow joiner have a rather horrific accident, routing whilst not having the work piece secured.i
I don't want to come across all 'belt and braces'. I'm retired now, due to ill health, and you are clearly a very good young joiner/carpenter.
I would just rather see your future videos, with you fully intact 👍
Thanks for watching Tony 👍will be sure to get the clamps out next time.
Absolutely brilliant enjoyed watching 👀
Thank you. Make sure you subscribe 👍
Look like your fitting to a floating floor, if so why no expansion gap round the side. Could have been left under the skirting?
Yea I don't see it being too much of a problem. I only did to it and not all the way through so there is still some flexibility there. Its still fine to this day 😌
What type of lazer have you got a link
its.co.uk/pd/STHT775941-Stanley-STHT775941-360-Cross-Line-Green-Beam-Laser-Level-_STASTHT775941.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQiAjbagBhD3ARIsANRrqEtbOj39gPlUiTaQA5VZZasJh1LB9KWUTtosSiRAuizFE-rrRodj00MaApLVEALw_wcB
Helpful step by step guide, thanks .... I also liked seeing the simplicity of the access hatch being added .. nice touch
Nice one Dean cheers mate
Great job, thank you 👏🏼
Cheers Mark
Why no dust sheet? Just a thought.
When filming is really hard to remember everything 👍
Can't believe how many tradesmen on hear don't use a self leveling laser. Such a brilliant tool for so many applications. The prices for these don't start at high cost unless you go for sophisticated ones with angles and tripods etc
Fully agree 👍
I'm no pro joiner but any 'boxing in' work I've done is to make the whole thing moveable, definitely where it covers access to pipework/electrics etc. Just a couple of screws to be removed for complete access. I don't have laser levels so it's all spirit gear .
The key part is to make it accessible, not necessarily movable. Which is why I put the hatch in at the end to get to the gas shut off.
Very professional lovely job 🏅
Thanks Julie 👍
Great job and detailed! Appreciate you have taken time to explain which always motivates likes of DIYer. Keep up the good work.
Thank you mate. Cheers for watching 👍
Can you explain what you said if a piece of wood touches a pipe it could draw the water out of it...? at 3.00 mins
Freezing cold water passes through pipes and there is always condensation on the pipe when it reaches the warm house. If the wood is touching it the water soaks in to it
@@BuiltByBen-YT Thank you Ben didn't realise that
No worries. Thanks for watching 👍
Link to the lane /tape please........👌👌👌👍......
So you mean laser?
Hi Ben. I've a question regarding Your festool extractor with makita palm sander.
I'm using the same combo, but how did you get the extractor to cut off power when working with the cordless tool?
Am I missing something?
It's all smoke and mirrors! There is a festool bluetooth button you can buy for the end of the hose. Saves your back bending down everything. I absolutely love it! Especially when chopping locks in doors so you don't need the hoover in the room with you
@@BuiltByBen-YT Thanks for that, I need to look for it... Keep up good work mate.
Will do buddy thanks for watching
This is my first video of yours i have watched. i like to watch joinery videos to learn from and your videos are amazing. you cover everything in the video and missed nothing out. you have explained everything in detail about what your doing and how your doing it. keep the good work up and more videos like this. wished i worked for you. i would learn a lot.
Cheers for your kind words mate 👍
what about access to the shut off valve ;as you did say ????
Watch till the end
lovely job mate, thank you
Thanks Simon 👍
Love the video i need to box my radiator pipes soon, now I know thank you from Les
Nice video - what's the laser please?
amzn.to/3VJczCA here's the link on my amazon shop. Best laser I've used. The 360 bit on top is so helpful for kitchens, ceilings and decks 👍
Well done - that was my question too.
Thanks for the video. One thing I need to raise, I am a gas engineer and gas supply pipes when boxed in need ventilation sized depending on the size of the void created. If you want the details let me know.
Hi very good content can you recommend a budget Lazer .thanks 👍
Thanks mate 👍how much are you looking to spend?
Great work Ben. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Buddy
@@BuiltByBen-YT cheers
what about access hatch for valve
Watch till the end John
What happened with the skirt that abutted the architrave?
What do you mean?
Nicely done, is the price of the moisture resitant mdf much more then the normal stuff ? Also Is it same as normal i.e. dulls the tools fast too? I generally dont like mdf for this reason and the dust that comes out of it...
It's marginally dearer but not enough to put me off because the benefits are great. Paints up better aswell. It does blunt blades but I price a new blade in to each job so no worries really
Very interesting mate. Thanks for sharing. Re the wind chimes… I would have wrapped some tape around them pretty quickly!
🤣🤣🤣 they are the start of the show
easest job i ever had was boxing in pipes at mental health hospitals and there was a lot. Set up in the car parks with a generator and loads of MDF. MDF is so forgiving and easy to work with..but always use corner blocks out of wood or more mdf and screw and glue if you want it strong, as screwing down the end is crap.
Useful video! I would have put the hatch with either the flap opening down, or left or right, not up which makes it awkward to access as you can't really see without it being fully open and it could easily fall down.
Thanks for watching Anne, the hinges are just pop off ones so once open it just releases. But good comment 👌
That's even better!!
I might have suggested the boxing went up to the window cill, then change the cill so it is the top of the boxing in.
Yes that was also discussed but the price for that was over budget
Great video . I don’t do very much boxing in but you have taught me a few things ! Thanks. Adrian
Cheers Adrian 👌
I wouldn't have been pleased coming home to that..... but why did you make the boxing so big ???? only a few low level pipes....
Because the wall was very uneven and damaged above the pipes. The customer wanted it like that and was very happy 👍
Fair enough.....me making asumptions before knowing the full story ....good work
Thanks Ronnie
Really nice job, you are really precise 👍
Thank you Jeffery 😊
Thanks for a great, informative video
Thanks Philip
use the 99p plugs from toosltation and you wont have the problem banging them through the hole, they have no shoulder and theyre just as good
Nice tip
Nice video. Always need to do boxing around the meters in a new buy to let. I will use the tips on my next project.
Thanks for watching mate. Good luck you ya 🫡
Spoilt by the plastic access panel. it woul have been neater to use the mdf cutout as an access panel, a strip of ply around the edge to prevent it falling in and turn button/catches to secure it. when painted it would blend-in far better.
I prefer the plastic but each to their own 👍
Theres a continuity error here... when laying the top board you were going to have a 15mm edging all round, then at 28 10 you showed a flush fit so it didn't overhang the door frame, then when your routing and sanding outside and laying the board at 29.43 the 15mm edge is back... does look much better with it.....good job
Looked nice and tidy in the end .
Thank you 😊
Interesting video and informative use of the laser! And, at last, someone using metric measurements, so frustrating to see, especially younger people, using clumsy imperial measurements! I've been using MDF screws for over twenty years now, definitely worth using, as you say less chance of splitting, because of the thin shaft, and really good grip, because of the the deep and sharp thread. Not sure what happened between 27mins and 29mins though, first you say you've decided to finish the end off flush but then you show an overhang?
Just a change of mind that I forgot to edit 🤣 thanks for watching
I can’t be the only person who thought that the wind chimes actually contributed to the video! Anyways, nice neat job there buddy.
I think I'll start putting wind chimes in all my videos if they do this well
Great job Ben, well done 👍🏼
Thank you very much 👍
Nice bit of boxing.Could you have taken it up to the cill ,then just have it all one level?
Yea but customer wanted it seperate
Great work lovely job 👌
Thanks Gareth
Ben, when using MDF beware of the health issues with its fine dust such as when you were cutting the access hatch. A simple dust mask will protect you.
Yes you are quite right. I never feel the need with a multitool as the majority of the dust falls down but I am fully aware that is stupid logic 🤣
It's definitely not a cheapskate option. It's quite pricey! But thanks for your opinion
It’s not only the dust if your tools are not sharp it will burn the MDF releasing dangerous gases
Noted ✅️
@@pocketfella5176 Formaldehyde
What brand of laser, nice compact unit, good beam
Tasty finish
Cheers Joe 👌
Its the stanley laser. I would recommend 👌
Awesome job. Thank you for sharing this.
Nice work , many would of edited out the fact that the first tube of glue was old 👍👍
First thing id do is cut those pipes off, replaster the damage. then lower the new popes to skirting level then do a skirting level box section to cover them all. No need for half wall height boxing
Great job Ben! Lovely work
Thank you Marc
Each to their own, I've been a chippy for over 25 years I wouldn't use a laser in this scenario it's too much faffing about, much easier and quicker with a normal level.
That job should take no longer than an hour to complete tops!
I've seen a lot of people over the years over complicate jobs that are basically straight forward and then get every tool out of the van that they own to complete it, a lot of the time it's not necessary, it just ends up costing the customer a fortune in labour due to the time it takes.
Just my opinion of course.
Understand your view Danny. I can't see that job Happening in 1 hour but I also know I'm not the quickest. 🤣
@@BuiltByBen-YT sorry mate I wasn't trying to criticize your work as that's the easiest thing in the world for anyone to do.
I appreciate that you're putting it out there for people that may not know 👍
Totally agree buddy the longer he takes the more he can charge
🤣🤣🤣🤣 you literally have no clue. But thanks for the comment. I earn money from you
I didn't expect to learn as much as I did but that was impressive. Great job!
Cheers, Robert. Make sure you subscribe 👍
Brilliant job 👏
Cheers Paul
how much would you charge for this? Do you charge by hour? Ta
This one was part of a much bigger job so only charged around £180 all in. But if it was a job by itself with nothing else to do it would probably have to be around £300.
Is that with you buying materials
@@waynebousie7241 £300 with materials
Wow, your price rises every time 🤣🤣🤣
Good clean job bro
Thanks mate. Cheers for watching the video
Nice one for the video. Some good tips and tricks in there
Thank you mate 👍
What’s your laser???
its.co.uk/pd/STHT775941-Stanley-STHT775941-360-Cross-Line-Green-Beam-Laser-Level-_STASTHT775941.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQiAjbagBhD3ARIsANRrqEtbOj39gPlUiTaQA5VZZasJh1LB9KWUTtosSiRAuizFE-rrRodj00MaApLVEALw_wcB
@@BuiltByBen-YT brilliant!! Cheers Ben!
Nice job btw, couple of great tricks there… scribing being 1!
Thanks mate
great job and great video
The scribing on the top piece didn’t look much, until you bought it outside. That’s some terrible plastering!! You did a great job - looks neat and adds character.
Yes mate. Part of the reason it was so high was to hide more of that rubbish plaster work. It got worse the further it went down. Cheers for watching 👍