Ive never considered removing the burr before i start sharpening the opposite side. I can see how it would be better but i love the feel of those first few strokes when you flip the blade and work into that burr .
I am getting SO much better at sharpening my knifes thanks to your sharpening videos. I haven’t able to take it to a complete new level. Using my Venev stones on my new 20CV Bugout with a final ceramic stone. Then black, green and plain leather. Your fucking awesome man. Best knife channel by far!!!
The newest technique I am developing is a little double tap with sound and touch feedback. The knife came from the factory pretty dull. Do you think I could the get a good bite with a 400 stone lightly using a trailing pass at a slightly higher angle?
Yes, what your doing is a micro bevel, you can do the same thing with a Ceramic Rod or stone as well, it's usually used to to strengthen an edge from chipping making it more tough, or to repair and edge between full Sharpening sessions, and thank you John 👊
I wish there was a way to turn the volume of the steel passing over the diamond up. Love that sound except steels that skate even though that means your in the good stuff most of the time.
Great video! I've been practicing on my cheap kitchen knives and noticed that I would get some rounding or blunting of the tip. Do you know why that might happen and how to correct it? Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
There's a couple reasons why, but your probably lifting to high. a good way to make sure you don't is put your finger on the spine of the tip, when you go across the stone you will feel the tip touch the stone because your finger is there, but stop when you hit the tip, look at the edge and watch your grit pattern so you can make sure your hitting, but that finger trick is common among sharpeners
You have no clue... How cool it is to watch a master work on one of your own favorite knives. I had to pause the video 12 minutes in because I just had to say something. Sorry I hope I'm not trolling and thanks dude
Ok some people sharpen towards the edge like carving, and some people sharpen away from the cutting edge like stropping. And then some people rub in both directions like a filing motion. What is the difference? Is one way better than the others? I'm trying to use a diamond rod to sharpen a 12" 4034 stainless steel khukuri machete.
The stones just tare it up and then you get it all over your stone, I just build calaces, and I really don't need to do my finger trick but my edges are cleaner when I do
@@NeevesKnives Use the kapton tape its way more durable than electrical tape, and it isn't expensive. I like the way you sharpen - Sir! I don't sharpen that way, but that tape will help you out!! I hone straight razors and I sometimes use the kapton tape to protect the spine, if I have to remove a chip from the apex, or any major damage. . Get the 1 mil thick kapton, and the 3/4" wide tape!!
Great video as always. I use the Ultra Sharp diamond stones, usually stopping at the 600 b/c I like the toothy edge. Would you mind telling me exactly which stones you are using here and how they compare to diamond grit rating. Interested in maybe giving them a try just for something different. Also, regarding conditioning, you have two conditioning stones linked in your Amazon listing. Which one would I need with these Venev stones? Thanks in advance.
I'd recommend the second link for conditioning stone it's of medium grt but the coarse one I'd fine to, they are for cleaning your stones off from loading up, the stones I'm using are venev Dragon series 3×8 the grit rating is completely different but they also use a micron rating and you can Google the translation from micron to grit. The micron rating is usually 2 numbers like my 50/40 micron is what I use as a 600 grt it's about 550 grit, so these are a micron rating and diamond plates are a grit rating. On these stones there's another number that people think I'd a grit rating but it doesn't translate the same as a regular grit rating like diamond plates, the 1200 is basically a 5000 grit, that's why I always just look at the micron number which on that stone is 3/2 micron
@@NeevesKnives Thanks! I will do some googling to figure out which Venev stones would be close to 300, 600 diamonds, etc. I would like to start with a course for (re)profiling, then a “medium” that is close to 600 grit. Where would you recommend I buy the stones?
First off great. Video I have a serrated edge shaman that I dropped and at the very tip it broke, should I send back to spyderco or can I send it to you.
Hey bud, now that I’ve gotten decent at freehand sharpening, I would like to step up my stropping game. What would you recommend (wood, leather, etc.) and what compound (diamond, CBN, etc.). Thanks!
I would recommend leather, I personally like the suple leather leather, but many like hard, both compounds are good just depends on the finish, for normal maintenance I like 6 micron, for polished edges 1 micron, diamond works great but isn't as easy to work with as aluminum oxide blocks, the spray is good but the bottles suck they are extremely messy
@@NeevesKnives I have never really gone for a mirror polish, usually like a toothy 600 grit finish, sometimes go one more stone and might even go to my Spyderco ultra fine stone which will give a hazy mirror. If I did want to get a mirror, could I jump from 6 micron to 1 or is that too big a gap? I was planning on getting a couple of bottles of Gunny Juice and thought about 3 and 1.
@@MrEric0822 if your wanting a 600 grt edge you don't even need 1 micron, I mean it won't hurt, but 6 micron would be perfect or 3 micron, so 3 micron is like 4000 grit or something like that. Your going to use it for burr removal and edge maintenance I'd just go with the green or white compound, not all are the same so dont go with the extremely cheap stuff,
You can send it in and ask them to reduce it possibly, I have videos on how to tune your detent, but it will void the warranty on that, but that's how I adjust lock bar tension and detents, you can modd more access to the lockbar for better leverage with your thumb, or you can keep messing with it until it breaks in over time
@@NeevesKnives okay I did watch that video I watch most of your videos but I was a little confused because the detents perfect it's just the frame lock itself is really hard to push over I can do it fine but the skin on my thumb can't I'll just wait before I mess with it it's just sad cuz I love the knife and the detents well tuned but it gets painful to unlock it should get better thanks
@@lucasfontana9824 then you would have to modd better access and maybe smooth out the lockbsr so it's more comfortable, the detent would probably be a little weaker if you did loosen the tension on the lockbar but it wouldn't be so stiff to unlock, mine isn't bad but I heard others that said that as well
I've had a few framelocks come super stiff. Sucks having to wait, but yours will break-in too. Working on a WE Upshot right now in fact. Definitely can relate to having a sore thumb! Lol
This might be a nonsensical question, but would one ever want a gnarly tooth heavy finish on part of the edge, and also have a polished part of the edge? Almost like a combo?
@@shawnfallahi5616 Cedric was his dog, but yes, Pete did some dual grit testing. That technique has sort of resurfaced over the years, apparently, but Gabe, from The Home Slice on RUclips has been reintroducing it and is the one who sent Pete the test knives.
For sure! I recommend that people sharpen knives like civivi knives until they are extremely comfortable and even then they still might want to send it out
Ive never considered removing the burr before i start sharpening the opposite side. I can see how it would be better but i love the feel of those first few strokes when you flip the blade and work into that burr .
Either way its going to come off but it help you go across the stone perfectly instead of fighting the burr with the first couple strokes
I am getting SO much better at sharpening my knifes thanks to your sharpening videos. I haven’t able to take it to a complete new level. Using my Venev stones on my new 20CV Bugout with a final ceramic stone. Then black, green and plain leather. Your fucking awesome man. Best knife channel by far!!!
The newest technique I am developing is a little double tap with sound and touch feedback. The knife came from the factory pretty dull. Do you think I could the get a good bite with a 400 stone lightly using a trailing pass at a slightly higher angle?
Yes, what your doing is a micro bevel, you can do the same thing with a Ceramic Rod or stone as well, it's usually used to to strengthen an edge from chipping making it more tough, or to repair and edge between full Sharpening sessions, and thank you John 👊
I wish there was a way to turn the volume of the steel passing over the diamond up. Love that sound except steels that skate even though that means your in the good stuff most of the time.
One day I will make an asmr for people to fall asleep to
@@NeevesKnives now that would be a cracking idea, No bull! it would for sure work a treat.. 👍
Dayum that those bevels are clean, nice job!
Thank you!
First ..BANG..these are my buddies knives..getem sharp for Shawn..🔪👌
👊 absolutely they are incredibly sharp he will be satisfied
Gonna have to rewatch this one...#knowledge
Good explanation of the process and what you are doing, thx!
Beautiful Edges Brother 😎
Great video! I've been practicing on my cheap kitchen knives and noticed that I would get some rounding or blunting of the tip. Do you know why that might happen and how to correct it? Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
There's a couple reasons why, but your probably lifting to high. a good way to make sure you don't is put your finger on the spine of the tip, when you go across the stone you will feel the tip touch the stone because your finger is there, but stop when you hit the tip, look at the edge and watch your grit pattern so you can make sure your hitting, but that finger trick is common among sharpeners
That was satisfying to watch, great video and awesome information.
Hah! Your hands looked as beat up as mine.
👊 yeah I get complaints but what am I supposed to do 😆 sometimes I say what you never seen a mans hands before 😆🤣
You have no clue...
How cool it is to watch a master work on one of your own favorite knives. I had to pause the video 12 minutes in because I just had to say something. Sorry I hope I'm not trolling and thanks dude
👊 thank you!!
I'm watching this video again and it's amazing because I feel like I'm right there. From beginning to end, how long did you spend on each knife?
@@shawnfallahi5616 about 40 45 min or so the one I filmed took longer because I was recording, and I take pictures and video to send to owner
Dayam! I'm an expert freehand sharpener and I don't even own sharpening stones! 😉 ✌️
😆
Ok some people sharpen towards the edge like carving, and some people sharpen away from the cutting edge like stropping.
And then some people rub in both directions like a filing motion.
What is the difference? Is one way better than the others?
I'm trying to use a diamond rod to sharpen a 12" 4034 stainless steel khukuri machete.
Use electric tape around your finger to protect while sharpening..
The stones just tare it up and then you get it all over your stone, I just build calaces, and I really don't need to do my finger trick but my edges are cleaner when I do
@@NeevesKnives Use the kapton tape its way more durable than electrical tape, and it isn't expensive. I like the way you sharpen - Sir! I don't sharpen that way, but that tape will help you out!! I hone straight razors and I sometimes use the kapton tape to protect the spine, if I have to remove a chip from the apex, or any major damage. .
Get the 1 mil thick kapton, and the 3/4" wide tape!!
@@michaelshults7675 thanks Mike!
Ordered
@@NeevesKnives I believe you will like it!! Its made tough - lol - its a heat resistance tape!! Go on ebay its cheaper..
Nice💯 👍
👍👍👍
Great video as always. I use the Ultra Sharp diamond stones, usually stopping at the 600 b/c I like the toothy edge. Would you mind telling me exactly which stones you are using here and how they compare to diamond grit rating. Interested in maybe giving them a try just for something different. Also, regarding conditioning, you have two conditioning stones linked in your Amazon listing. Which one would I need with these Venev stones? Thanks in advance.
I'd recommend the second link for conditioning stone it's of medium grt but the coarse one I'd fine to, they are for cleaning your stones off from loading up, the stones I'm using are venev Dragon series 3×8 the grit rating is completely different but they also use a micron rating and you can Google the translation from micron to grit. The micron rating is usually 2 numbers like my 50/40 micron is what I use as a 600 grt it's about 550 grit, so these are a micron rating and diamond plates are a grit rating. On these stones there's another number that people think I'd a grit rating but it doesn't translate the same as a regular grit rating like diamond plates, the 1200 is basically a 5000 grit, that's why I always just look at the micron number which on that stone is 3/2 micron
@@NeevesKnives Thanks! I will do some googling to figure out which Venev stones would be close to 300, 600 diamonds, etc. I would like to start with a course for (re)profiling, then a “medium” that is close to 600 grit. Where would you recommend I buy the stones?
I had this brown haze on my Dia-sharp after a few knives. Found out it was coming from my thumb….
Your putting to much pressure with your finger, if you have issues don't drag it just use it as a starting point
@@NeevesKnives … I learned that the painful way. Pretty much like everything else in life.
First off great. Video I have a serrated edge shaman that I dropped and at the very tip it broke, should I send back to spyderco or can I send it to you.
You can send it to me if you'd like
Hey bud, now that I’ve gotten decent at freehand sharpening, I would like to step up my stropping game. What would you recommend (wood, leather, etc.) and what compound (diamond, CBN, etc.). Thanks!
I would recommend leather, I personally like the suple leather leather, but many like hard, both compounds are good just depends on the finish, for normal maintenance I like 6 micron, for polished edges 1 micron, diamond works great but isn't as easy to work with as aluminum oxide blocks, the spray is good but the bottles suck they are extremely messy
@@NeevesKnives I have never really gone for a mirror polish, usually like a toothy 600 grit finish, sometimes go one more stone and might even go to my Spyderco ultra fine stone which will give a hazy mirror. If I did want to get a mirror, could I jump from 6 micron to 1 or is that too big a gap? I was planning on getting a couple of bottles of Gunny Juice and thought about 3 and 1.
@@MrEric0822 if your wanting a 600 grt edge you don't even need 1 micron, I mean it won't hurt, but 6 micron would be perfect or 3 micron, so 3 micron is like 4000 grit or something like that. Your going to use it for burr removal and edge maintenance I'd just go with the green or white compound, not all are the same so dont go with the extremely cheap stuff,
Hey I just got a Medford slim midi and the lockbar tension is very strong it's destroying my thumb is there anything I can do
You can send it in and ask them to reduce it possibly, I have videos on how to tune your detent, but it will void the warranty on that, but that's how I adjust lock bar tension and detents, you can modd more access to the lockbar for better leverage with your thumb, or you can keep messing with it until it breaks in over time
@@NeevesKnives okay I did watch that video I watch most of your videos but I was a little confused because the detents perfect it's just the frame lock itself is really hard to push over I can do it fine but the skin on my thumb can't I'll just wait before I mess with it it's just sad cuz I love the knife and the detents well tuned but it gets painful to unlock it should get better thanks
@@lucasfontana9824 then you would have to modd better access and maybe smooth out the lockbsr so it's more comfortable, the detent would probably be a little weaker if you did loosen the tension on the lockbar but it wouldn't be so stiff to unlock, mine isn't bad but I heard others that said that as well
I've had a few framelocks come super stiff. Sucks having to wait, but yours will break-in too. Working on a WE Upshot right now in fact. Definitely can relate to having a sore thumb! Lol
This might be a nonsensical question, but would one ever want a gnarly tooth heavy finish on part of the edge, and also have a polished part of the edge? Almost like a combo?
Only if it was on separate sides, but it sounds kind of cool
@@NeevesKnives I think the Cedric guy recently did that - toothy on one side, polished on the other
Dual grind, on M4. ruclips.net/video/jPIJkXfUg5E/видео.html
@@shawnfallahi5616 Cedric was his dog, but yes, Pete did some dual grit testing. That technique has sort of resurfaced over the years, apparently, but Gabe, from The Home Slice on RUclips has been reintroducing it and is the one who sent Pete the test knives.
Thanks Jesse.
There are some knives so expensive you just don't want to use and sharpen yourself lol
For sure! I recommend that people sharpen knives like civivi knives until they are extremely comfortable and even then they still might want to send it out