And that among other things is the reason why trailers are parked on the slight decline or jacked up so water moves to back and usually its open or several drain holes being drilled....Also cause you dont want to water to sit in there and rust it away. Also dont leave equipment into the bed of a trailer in the first place, but alas we all make mistakes. To remedy the mistake, drain what water you can by placing it on different directions like getting the water out of the exhaust, least amount that its not flowing into cylinder when valve is opened. Then place it on warm place like garage, remove the spark plugs/injectors/glow plugs. Before that dont even attempt to turn it cause there is high chance engine is water locked and starting attempt can destroy things. After you have done removing the plugs, you can check the potential battery and its condition, drain the oil most importantly and take the first desiliter or so out from the bottom where water is likely to settle. Look for any indication of water getting into the oil. If the oil looks good you can pour it back in, or swap it to be safe and also cause you just drained it so might as well change it if has been a while. Then drain the fuel same way and you can run it trough water separator, specially with the diesel. On gasoline too water separates on the bottom of the tank over time separating, so you can also look into tank to see if there is any water in the bottom of the tank if it was flushed in say few days to mix it in. If not it might be fine to leave it. Take the carb out and check the bulb for the water, if not there things should be fine and can be put together, except the injectors/sparkplugs, cause then you need to turn the engine first slowly and then somewhat rapidly with out starting it to spurt any water that might be in the cylinders out. If nothing comes out and there in compression with finger test put everything back together, fuel lines bleed and prep for starting. The coolant you should check too if water cooled, but if its not freezing temps you can do that after test running it so any added water will mix in and you get uniform measurement with suitable coolant frost point measuring tool. At this point the engine side should be fine, but then comes the electrical side in case of generator. Those are IP44 sockets so put peace of wood to keep the lid open for air movement, open what you can easily, so things drain and dry. If you know how to take things apart further it would be advised to do, but only if you know your ass from your head and know you can put it properly back together, otherwise get someone who does to check it. Contactors etc could and should be sprayed with electrical contact cleaner and protection chemicals and this would be decent idea to do every now and then as maintenance as well, so there wont be corrosion, specially if you live near the sea or moist areas, or the machine is stored near moisture sources like truck bed. After dryings things for day or two, put everything back together and try starting it. Dont touch any metal and very least dont grab it case of generator leaking into the frame and cause elctricution while crabbing contracts your muscled and make you crab even more, so instead if you can measure it via tools, slap the metal parts with opposite hand to your heart to be safer and then you can test it with some tool or device you are not so attached to. You could also measure the output to be sure its the right voltage and herz. The inverter generators are generally even more delicate to flooding, specially lower grade ones that might have leak in the seals, flooding the control board. That should be washed with isopropanol alcohol to replace the water with alcohol and allowed to dry so there wont be water below the components causing shorts. Powering it up might blow it and make things expensive. Never ever leave flooded engine just sit and dry, with out opening those things to prevent corrosion, double that with salt water flooding. At that point you rather dunk it under fresh water to flush the salt water out and then start the process mentioned above, cause salt will corrode things far faster. This includes salty sea air. On the note of air compressor not running, or specially when it makes whine noise but does not turn, you can try to manually turn it and if it does start turning its failed starter capacitor. Just around 25€ and its running good again. Number of compressors i have taken from scrap metal that only had capacitor fail in ridiculous. You can find replacement from water pump systems for free, though those might be blown as well, but generally its the film/bladder in the tank that has blown. Push the tank air nib with something and if air wont come out, that is likely culprit why its broken or why it was thrown, so its highly likely that capacitor and pump are fine to repurpose.
And that among other things is the reason why trailers are parked on the slight decline or jacked up so water moves to back and usually its open or several drain holes being drilled....Also cause you dont want to water to sit in there and rust it away. Also dont leave equipment into the bed of a trailer in the first place, but alas we all make mistakes.
To remedy the mistake, drain what water you can by placing it on different directions like getting the water out of the exhaust, least amount that its not flowing into cylinder when valve is opened. Then place it on warm place like garage, remove the spark plugs/injectors/glow plugs. Before that dont even attempt to turn it cause there is high chance engine is water locked and starting attempt can destroy things. After you have done removing the plugs, you can check the potential battery and its condition, drain the oil most importantly and take the first desiliter or so out from the bottom where water is likely to settle. Look for any indication of water getting into the oil. If the oil looks good you can pour it back in, or swap it to be safe and also cause you just drained it so might as well change it if has been a while. Then drain the fuel same way and you can run it trough water separator, specially with the diesel. On gasoline too water separates on the bottom of the tank over time separating, so you can also look into tank to see if there is any water in the bottom of the tank if it was flushed in say few days to mix it in. If not it might be fine to leave it. Take the carb out and check the bulb for the water, if not there things should be fine and can be put together, except the injectors/sparkplugs, cause then you need to turn the engine first slowly and then somewhat rapidly with out starting it to spurt any water that might be in the cylinders out. If nothing comes out and there in compression with finger test put everything back together, fuel lines bleed and prep for starting. The coolant you should check too if water cooled, but if its not freezing temps you can do that after test running it so any added water will mix in and you get uniform measurement with suitable coolant frost point measuring tool. At this point the engine side should be fine, but then comes the electrical side in case of generator.
Those are IP44 sockets so put peace of wood to keep the lid open for air movement, open what you can easily, so things drain and dry. If you know how to take things apart further it would be advised to do, but only if you know your ass from your head and know you can put it properly back together, otherwise get someone who does to check it. Contactors etc could and should be sprayed with electrical contact cleaner and protection chemicals and this would be decent idea to do every now and then as maintenance as well, so there wont be corrosion, specially if you live near the sea or moist areas, or the machine is stored near moisture sources like truck bed. After dryings things for day or two, put everything back together and try starting it. Dont touch any metal and very least dont grab it case of generator leaking into the frame and cause elctricution while crabbing contracts your muscled and make you crab even more, so instead if you can measure it via tools, slap the metal parts with opposite hand to your heart to be safer and then you can test it with some tool or device you are not so attached to. You could also measure the output to be sure its the right voltage and herz. The inverter generators are generally even more delicate to flooding, specially lower grade ones that might have leak in the seals, flooding the control board. That should be washed with isopropanol alcohol to replace the water with alcohol and allowed to dry so there wont be water below the components causing shorts. Powering it up might blow it and make things expensive.
Never ever leave flooded engine just sit and dry, with out opening those things to prevent corrosion, double that with salt water flooding. At that point you rather dunk it under fresh water to flush the salt water out and then start the process mentioned above, cause salt will corrode things far faster. This includes salty sea air.
On the note of air compressor not running, or specially when it makes whine noise but does not turn, you can try to manually turn it and if it does start turning its failed starter capacitor. Just around 25€ and its running good again. Number of compressors i have taken from scrap metal that only had capacitor fail in ridiculous. You can find replacement from water pump systems for free, though those might be blown as well, but generally its the film/bladder in the tank that has blown. Push the tank air nib with something and if air wont come out, that is likely culprit why its broken or why it was thrown, so its highly likely that capacitor and pump are fine to repurpose.
@@Hellsong89 you win longest comment ever
Great way to justify buying a replacement generator. I bet the inverter pcb is soaking wet thus will fail immediately on startup.
Needs to dry out for a day or 2 then try and start it.
how about covering it.. and taking the generator out of ur dump trailer
how about new gas.. and change the oil before u run it
Your destroying that jenny running it when things are soaked,,shame.
Cardinal rule of all construction is s*** happens
Its a cheap ass champon anyways .