I've watched 100,000 RUclips videos on tiling because I've never been able to figure out how to eliminate the chipping along my cut lines. Yours is the first video that explained how to eliminate that and get factory-quality cuts. All the other tiling pros skip over the minutia like that, but its these little details that help the diy'ers like myself get better. This is the first time I've ever hit the "like" button on RUclips. Thanks guys, keep it up!
Any chance you could pass along the exact buffing pads you guys use? Also can those same ones work for porcelain as well? Thanks and very helpful video!!
Your genuine tips such as mitering a bit more than 45 is a breath of fresh air, no one else gives away these secrets. Your vids deserve more recognition. Good luck in your future endeavors.
Of all the tile videos out on RUclips, yours don’t get enough credit. I appreciate the simplicity and no BS. Very clean job guys and thanks for the info. I know it can be a pain to film while working then add in time for editing, but I’ll gladly watch anything new and take any tips from you guys if you can get any future videos out.
This worked great for redoing the shower/bathtub of my kid's bathroom. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfiuHoZJo3bgdVPFRxQ-iqPpfbEHl2cYt I didn't like the guide, so I took it off. I just used a fine tipped sharpie on the tile and followed that line. It does make a wet mess, and once I started looking like I wet myself I started wearing a towel and apron while cutting. The blade it came with worked great until we wore it out. It was better than the replacement one we bought. I tried looking for just their blade, but failed. Not really for larger tiles unless you stack stuff on either side to support the tiles. Anyway, would definitley buy again.
Very good video. I work for a high end tile company and attest to all his techniques. The gapping on his 45 corners could have been better and ya, overkill on mortar. Check your adhesion and use what's needed and not a ton extra. Messy work takes much longer to prep for grout. Don't let my critiques fool you this fella knows his stuff and does it well.
My handyman tiling is going to look a lot better. Thanks heaps for the greater than 45 degree tip and showing that even experts get chipped edges, I always thought it was my mid range priced blades.
From your newest subscriber. Excellent content. You've set yourself apart from all the other mundane self claimed tile pros that propagate on RUclips. Continued success!
Really helpful. Thanks - Saved me buying/hiring a wet saw which I was considering to get the 45 degree angle but nice to see how it's done professionally with an angle grinder...
Great informative vid been tiling for 6 years and great to learn new techniques from different installers. Be liking and subscribing. Your a natural teacher.
Sheet rock brand makes a hell of a paddle mixer for mixing mortar and stuff it is amazing you can pick one up at your local drywall supply house… best mixer I have ever used it has 4 paddles on it but each end has a different curve and so worth it
I recently bought the De Walt , cool method for hand cutting the the 45 back to 50 . I was using a 120 ? to polish up chips. Ill take your 200 recommendation. Its a fact there is no over 45 setting and that wavy blade does create those issues.
Hell Yeah you fellas got skills!!! Many different ways to do things. Some may disagree with your methods but I like to learn different techniques from others and your finish is exception so the proof is in the fine detail which my wife and i are fanatical about.... perfect finish!!! Thanks heaps guys. About to do some tricky mitres on a splash back or back splash depending on where you are in the world so this video is excatly what I needed!!!
Hmm, like inside miters? It's very rare that i need to honestly. A lot of times i cope them if the surface of the tile has dimensional movement, like say a bevel, or raided perimeters.
When I want more than 45 degrees on my table saw, I can secure a shim on the table that will lift my work piece up and create more degrees. Deflection is another problem, a smaller diameter thicker blade helps. And push slowly.
That all works great too. I'm good with my grinder, and do with larger format i always find myself going that route. And anymore I'm mitering a ton of 2x4' and 4x4' 🥵 I need a bridge saw.
For the 12x24 tiles is it not possible to use the saw bevel and also put a thin, long shim under the edge of the tile your cutting? That would allow for a sharper angle and still be convenient.
Free handing give you so much more control over the outcome. Couple of other things that I don't think Nate mentioned. Is that when cutting meters on a wet saw, you are limited to what kind of meters. On large format tiles, depending on how long your cut piece is, they will not clear the arm on the left hand side of the saw. And the blade only bevels on direction. So yes, a majority of the cuts can be made, but there are most definitely bevel cuts that physically cannot be made with large format tiles on these style wet saws. The other issue qith using a wet saw on meters, is that it is extremely difficult to keep the blade from drifting. As Nate mentioned, the deflection in the blade can cause a less than 45° cut. It can also deflect the trajectory of your cut. Especially when starting your miter. I would always have to start wide, and then keep backing up and shifting over a fuzz, until the blade deflection lined up my cut. When at a 90° cut approach, the blade is fairly ridged and is isn't going to drift upon starting or throughout the cut. Assuming your using a high quality blade. At a 45, the blade immediately drifts upwards as it comes in contact with the face of the tile. I love that people are using miters instead of just schluter edging the sides or even worse, using jolly trim. Amazing video, as always Nate! Love watching other people that give enough shits about their work! So many guys out there just slam the tile to the wall. You put in the time to home the craft and give the homeowner the best possible product! Mad respect!
I’ve wondered about this myself. I only have a basic wet cutter for porcelains I’m currently fitting at home. I have a range of hand grinders so may take up your advice. What I wasn’t sure about however was do I really want to go through the glaze? Will it weaken the corner and potentially chip easier? Better to have a tiny grout line?? Increasing the angle makes perfect sense. Nothing is ever exactly 90 degrees
Yes, leave a tiny grout line to either grout in, or some guys epoxy shut. Miters can be fragile, so depending on the tile and location you may want to use metal trim instead.
DIY here. I have a project that I am using 3x10 beveled subway tile. I don't have any outside corners on my job, but I am trying to figure out how to wrap around two INSIDE corners of a shower cove with these beveled tiles. There are three potential adjoining corner tile situations as I can see it. I could have two adjoining corner tiles that are either cut to cut, cut to bevel, or bevel to bevel. I am curious how you might suggest one deals with those three possible situations? I would think with the cut to cut adjoining INSIDE corner tiles that you could miter them to a nice 45 using the same technique as used in your video. With the cut to bevel adjoining tiles, I would think you would bury the cut tile and then have the beveled tile push up to the face of the cut tile. The bevel to bevel situation seems like the most straightforward. Just have the two beveled edges adjoin with the correct grout line distance. Any suggestions? I appreciate your videos and the tips.
Inside bevel or coping would both work well. I have done it both ways and prefer to cope the tile. If possible, layout the tile as best as you can, and start in the corner with that will be most visible. This way you can set the buried side in, then work on the cope a little easier with an open side, rather than fitting the last tile in the corner, and cutting it to length. I would experiment, and see what I could get to look cleaner honestly.
Bevel to bevel will only work in whatever corner you start in, and it dictates your layout to you in a way that may not be desirable. If you start bevel to bevel in one corner, the other will need coped, or inside mitered.
@@NathanTilesTheWorld Great suggestions. Once you explained it I could see what you were talking about. I looked back at my spreadsheet where I laid out each row of tile, and I now believe that I will work to have adjoining tiles in the corners be cut to cut alignments, and then consistently use a coping method to get a clean grout line. When you cope tiles do you use the table saw or the grinder method? I would think it would have to be an adjustable table saw, but I noted in your video above that sometimes cutting on a angle can make the blade deflect, making the cut not exactly what you want. I'll definitely have to experiment, but was wondering if you have any techniques that ensure clean coping cuts.
Great vid, and excellent mitre cuts! Can't believe you've got such steady hands, ha. I made a few big wooden block support wedges to use with my dinky wet cutter... Don't suppose you've got a video anywhere of trimming bevelled metro tiles / what to do with an internal corner? Cannot find a single video anywhere that goes into any detail *at all*
Yes, but you need a VERY good blade, and buffing pads. I would attempt this on a wetsaw personally before the hand grinder. I've not mitered large format glass personally, but it can be done.
Hi Nathan, did you use normal grout on the corners at the time ? I’m not at the level I could do mitered niches yet but that’s something I want to practice and offer later. Do you like epoxy better on the corners ? Thanks
Question. Why not use a smooth CR blade to make cuts. It will avoid the chips at best or at worse cause less. Saving the step of using diamond pad to remove chips and ease the edges. Though the eased adge is actually preferable.
Just diamond buffing pads. I don't pay attention to the brand as much as i do the pattern. We like the honeycomb pattern pads. Usually a 200 grit, like mentioned 👍
It will make life much easier. Some guys run buffing pads on battery powered grinders(8-10k rpms) with success. Corded grinders spin much faster usually (10-12k rpms) and its a bit dangerous. Most pad manufacturers don't want you going over 5-6k rpms. We run our dials on our buffers from 1.5-4 depending on the tile. The variable speed gives you far more control.
Some guys do clamp their tile down while free handing with the grinder. I've never tried, and tend revert back to holding the tile with one hand, and free handing it with the grinder with the other hand. Who pays attention to safety anyways? 😅
My new Dewalt 24000 is chipping really bad on miter cuts like unusable at all is there anyway to fix that issue or do I just need to buff them out every time
I'm working like you tile setter in Egypt I like your work you very good tile setter can to be friend I want to know a lot about this profession in America
I'm gonna send you some pics. of the tile work in our house. It's not even 4 years old!!! Where da F*ck was all this style tile when we were building our house!!??? We had to use these marble pencil (bars) tile to use a a way to hide the cut lines in our beveled subway tile!!! Where dah heck was all this Schluter profiles then!! Well, at least I know what we can use for the remodels after I buy my Ferrari first!! Great Video Nate. Keep at it. You dropped mad knowledge Bud!! Dirty Jersey out!!
For young man you did pretty damn good work. Be proud of yourself. The only thing I believe I saw was you were using Mastic and especially in the shower Jam where you would put screws in for the door hinges could possibly crush it because mastic will give. I myself always use a good thinset in a shower. Keep up the good work
Nice video guys alot of help for me. Im going to try this to make a niche in my shower in porcelain tiles. When you relieve the front side of the tile. Does it expose the different colour porcelain? Do you just grout it in or just leave it? What did you do on this install? It looks like theres a tiny gap for grout on that edge. Cheers!
@@NathanTilesTheWorld Nice one thanks mate. I've seen a couple more examples where they leave a 2mm gap to match the grout lines too. I think I'm gonna give this ago using the angle grinder technique. I'll buy one of those polishing pads for it too. Maybe a 50 and a 200. I guess if I'm putting a 2mm gap for grout I dont have to make the chamfer right up to the edge. Maybe keep a bit of strength that way.
That's how we do it. If you make that edge too sharp, that edge becomes very fragile. Good luck brother. Look at our Instagram to see lots of images of mitered tile: @visionstoneandtile
After he miters that one tile with the grinder, he comes back and smoothes and polishes it with another attachment...What is that? Buffing, sanding? Thanks
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
I've watched 100,000 RUclips videos on tiling because I've never been able to figure out how to eliminate the chipping along my cut lines. Yours is the first video that explained how to eliminate that and get factory-quality cuts. All the other tiling pros skip over the minutia like that, but its these little details that help the diy'ers like myself get better. This is the first time I've ever hit the "like" button on RUclips. Thanks guys, keep it up!
Wow. I really appreciate that. Means a lot!
Any chance you could pass along the exact buffing pads you guys use? Also can those same ones work for porcelain as well? Thanks and very helpful video!!
Type in Amazon "SHDIATOOL Dry Diamond Polishing Pads 4 Inch"
Something similar to those. Dry pads, honeycomb style.
Good luck!
Oh, and subscribe, lol!
@@NathanTilesTheWorld found them! Thanks again!
Your genuine tips such as mitering a bit more than 45 is a breath of fresh air, no one else gives away these secrets. Your vids deserve more recognition. Good luck in your future endeavors.
I just need to make more of them!
I was breaking tiles left and right trying and I figured RUclips university would have an answer to my problem. Thanks guys.
RUclips is great for this stuff!!
Nathan thank you so much for showing us how to diy.
Especially that you point out the pros and cons of several machines.
Many thanks from Amsterdam!
THE BEST INFORMATIONAL AND DETAIL VIEWS OF HOW-TO I'VE SEEN ON THE INTERNETS!? THANK YOU. A+++++
Man! I cannot thank u enough! This method worked best! Kitchen came out fly! Thanks so much! ❤
Awesome!
Of all the tile videos out on RUclips, yours don’t get enough credit. I appreciate the simplicity and no BS. Very clean job guys and thanks for the info. I know it can be a pain to film while working then add in time for editing, but I’ll gladly watch anything new and take any tips from you guys if you can get any future videos out.
because he's a fucking hack
O.K. may be a four-year-old video but your info is still spot on and up-to-date! Thanks for posting - found the info really useful!
This worked great for redoing the shower/bathtub of my kid's bathroom. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfiuHoZJo3bgdVPFRxQ-iqPpfbEHl2cYt I didn't like the guide, so I took it off. I just used a fine tipped sharpie on the tile and followed that line. It does make a wet mess, and once I started looking like I wet myself I started wearing a towel and apron while cutting. The blade it came with worked great until we wore it out. It was better than the replacement one we bought. I tried looking for just their blade, but failed. Not really for larger tiles unless you stack stuff on either side to support the tiles. Anyway, would definitley buy again.
You guys really take pride in your work. This was a great video!
Very good video. I work for a high end tile company and attest to all his techniques. The gapping on his 45 corners could have been better and ya, overkill on mortar. Check your adhesion and use what's needed and not a ton extra. Messy work takes much longer to prep for grout. Don't let my critiques fool you this fella knows his stuff and does it well.
This is truly excellent content. So much valuable information packed in there. Well done guys.
My handyman tiling is going to look a lot better. Thanks heaps for the greater than 45 degree tip and showing that even experts get chipped edges, I always thought it was my mid range priced blades.
This is one of the best tutorials I ever watched i need this information badly 💯
Holy shit, you have no idea how much this helped me, just changed my whole world in tiling! Thank you!
Happy to help! Check out our insta @visionstoneandtile if you really want to see some stuff!
You guys show some madd skill. I am amazed. Thanks for the tips
From your newest subscriber. Excellent content. You've set yourself apart from all the other mundane self claimed tile pros that propagate on RUclips. Continued success!
thats so much to go thru, but its worth it in the final product. nice work fellas.
Thanks brother! 👊🏼
Man if I could give more than a like button I would bro!!
Good video, good tips!❤
Some times the young guys know what's up! 😺
Awesome video. This is why YT was invented, not for everyone else that wastes people's time with flashy editing and no substance. Cheers!
These two guys are super talented
Thank you!!
Simple and great. Good explanation as to why you do it one way and showing other options. Thanks guys!!!
Great work chaps. Good to see people taking pride in their work.
There is an adjustment screw on the back of the DEWALT saw that will allow it to cut past a 45
Really helpful. Thanks - Saved me buying/hiring a wet saw which I was considering to get the 45 degree angle but nice to see how it's done professionally with an angle grinder...
I really enjoyed the video. Thanks guys I done a few miters jobs
Great informative vid been tiling for 6 years and great to learn new techniques from different installers. Be liking and subscribing. Your a natural teacher.
Wow, I appreciate that. Growth is what it's all about.
Love the work and tips!!
Thanks for sharing! Enjoyed this informative video and do my tile just like you guys. Keep up the great work.
Thank you!!
Sheet rock brand makes a hell of a paddle mixer for mixing mortar and stuff it is amazing you can pick one up at your local drywall supply house… best mixer I have ever used it has 4 paddles on it but each end has a different curve and so worth it
I recently bought the De Walt , cool method for hand cutting the the 45 back to 50 . I was using a 120 ? to polish up chips. Ill take your 200 recommendation. Its a fact there is no over 45 setting and that wavy blade does create those issues.
Great video dude. Straight forward, real great info.
Thank you Craig. Means a lot!
Hell Yeah you fellas got skills!!!
Many different ways to do things. Some may disagree with your methods but I like to learn different techniques from others and your finish is exception so the proof is in the fine detail which my wife and i are fanatical about.... perfect finish!!!
Thanks heaps guys.
About to do some tricky mitres on a splash back or back splash depending on where you are in the world so this video is excatly what I needed!!!
Thanks 👍
Great video. Thank you so much guys
Epic video, watched it twice
I appreciate that a lot. Hopefully it was helpful ❤
Nice video! I tried mitter joint learning from you.
Thanks just the info I was trying to find! 🔥🔥💪🏽💪🏽
What great video a hidden gem. What about inside cuts do you have a video about that?
Hmm, like inside miters? It's very rare that i need to honestly. A lot of times i cope them if the surface of the tile has dimensional movement, like say a bevel, or raided perimeters.
Explained very well great technique well done lads
Using the wet saw, i suggest you put something underneath the tile so you can cut more than 45 deg.
Great workmanship
Thank you, i was always curious about tiling and why there are chips in square edges in every bathroom :)
Simple sloppiness is all 😅
thx for sharing this brother ❤
Good stuff bro!
Amazing job guys.
Nice video. Really good tips !
When I want more than 45 degrees on my table saw, I can secure a shim on the table that will lift my work piece up and create more degrees. Deflection is another problem, a smaller diameter thicker blade helps. And push slowly.
That all works great too. I'm good with my grinder, and do with larger format i always find myself going that route. And anymore I'm mitering a ton of 2x4' and 4x4' 🥵
I need a bridge saw.
cut a block of timber on an angle and fix it to the deck so you atleast have something solid to hold it to. Simple Jig instead of free handing it
For the 12x24 tiles is it not possible to use the saw bevel and also put a thin, long shim under the edge of the tile your cutting? That would allow for a sharper angle and still be convenient.
its entirely possible, yes, but generally not our preference. we like the free-handing life!
Free handing give you so much more control over the outcome. Couple of other things that I don't think Nate mentioned. Is that when cutting meters on a wet saw, you are limited to what kind of meters. On large format tiles, depending on how long your cut piece is, they will not clear the arm on the left hand side of the saw. And the blade only bevels on direction. So yes, a majority of the cuts can be made, but there are most definitely bevel cuts that physically cannot be made with large format tiles on these style wet saws.
The other issue qith using a wet saw on meters, is that it is extremely difficult to keep the blade from drifting. As Nate mentioned, the deflection in the blade can cause a less than 45° cut. It can also deflect the trajectory of your cut. Especially when starting your miter. I would always have to start wide, and then keep backing up and shifting over a fuzz, until the blade deflection lined up my cut. When at a 90° cut approach, the blade is fairly ridged and is isn't going to drift upon starting or throughout the cut. Assuming your using a high quality blade. At a 45, the blade immediately drifts upwards as it comes in contact with the face of the tile.
I love that people are using miters instead of just schluter edging the sides or even worse, using jolly trim.
Amazing video, as always Nate! Love watching other people that give enough shits about their work! So many guys out there just slam the tile to the wall. You put in the time to home the craft and give the homeowner the best possible product! Mad respect!
@@NathanTilesTheWorld forgot to tag you in the comment as well! Keep it up man! Wish you were near ATL! I would damn sure use you on my tile jobs !
Appreciate you, and these thoughtful comments. Very well stated!
Nice but how do you grout the miter joints ? What do you do because no grout is going between those tiles for sure?
I’ve wondered about this myself. I only have a basic wet cutter for porcelains I’m currently fitting at home. I have a range of hand grinders so may take up your advice. What I wasn’t sure about however was do I really want to go through the glaze? Will it weaken the corner and potentially chip easier? Better to have a tiny grout line??
Increasing the angle makes perfect sense. Nothing is ever exactly 90 degrees
Yes, leave a tiny grout line to either grout in, or some guys epoxy shut. Miters can be fragile, so depending on the tile and location you may want to use metal trim instead.
DIY here. I have a project that I am using 3x10 beveled subway tile. I don't have any outside corners on my job, but I am trying to figure out how to wrap around two INSIDE corners of a shower cove with these beveled tiles. There are three potential adjoining corner tile situations as I can see it. I could have two adjoining corner tiles that are either cut to cut, cut to bevel, or bevel to bevel. I am curious how you might suggest one deals with those three possible situations? I would think with the cut to cut adjoining INSIDE corner tiles that you could miter them to a nice 45 using the same technique as used in your video. With the cut to bevel adjoining tiles, I would think you would bury the cut tile and then have the beveled tile push up to the face of the cut tile. The bevel to bevel situation seems like the most straightforward. Just have the two beveled edges adjoin with the correct grout line distance. Any suggestions? I appreciate your videos and the tips.
Inside bevel or coping would both work well. I have done it both ways and prefer to cope the tile. If possible, layout the tile as best as you can, and start in the corner with that will be most visible. This way you can set the buried side in, then work on the cope a little easier with an open side, rather than fitting the last tile in the corner, and cutting it to length. I would experiment, and see what I could get to look cleaner honestly.
Bevel to bevel will only work in whatever corner you start in, and it dictates your layout to you in a way that may not be desirable. If you start bevel to bevel in one corner, the other will need coped, or inside mitered.
@@NathanTilesTheWorld Great suggestions. Once you explained it I could see what you were talking about. I looked back at my spreadsheet where I laid out each row of tile, and I now believe that I will work to have adjoining tiles in the corners be cut to cut alignments, and then consistently use a coping method to get a clean grout line. When you cope tiles do you use the table saw or the grinder method? I would think it would have to be an adjustable table saw, but I noted in your video above that sometimes cutting on a angle can make the blade deflect, making the cut not exactly what you want. I'll definitely have to experiment, but was wondering if you have any techniques that ensure clean coping cuts.
Nice Video ... what blade were you using on the grinder while pulling off the miter by hand? At about timestamp - -6:02
Great explanation. What is the best way to miter large format tiles (30" or larger)? I need to miter 60" tiles.
A good work table, and a little practice if you can. I'd do them by hand with good grinder blades. Check out calidad.
Thank you for very nice tips!
You're welcome!
Great vid, and excellent mitre cuts! Can't believe you've got such steady hands, ha. I made a few big wooden block support wedges to use with my dinky wet cutter... Don't suppose you've got a video anywhere of trimming bevelled metro tiles / what to do with an internal corner? Cannot find a single video anywhere that goes into any detail *at all*
No, but eventually ❤
Great advice, I always wondered why my 45 degree setting on my wet saw gave me crappy cuts. Question, can you miter large format GLASS tile?
Yes, but you need a VERY good blade, and buffing pads. I would attempt this on a wetsaw personally before the hand grinder. I've not mitered large format glass personally, but it can be done.
Hi Nathan, did you use normal grout on the corners at the time ? I’m not at the level I could do mitered niches yet but that’s something I want to practice and offer later. Do you like epoxy better on the corners ? Thanks
Question. Why not use a smooth CR blade to make cuts. It will avoid the chips at best or at worse cause less. Saving the step of using diamond pad to remove chips and ease the edges. Though the eased adge is actually preferable.
I ease all edges either way, so it doesn't matter much to me. Plus the pearl p5 is a killer blade by any standard.
unexpected spiritual awakening there at the end 😵💫..
Awesome video. What disc do you use to clean up the edge? Is that some sort of diamond disc ? That 200 grit disk I mean
Thanks.
Just diamond buffing pads. I don't pay attention to the brand as much as i do the pattern. We like the honeycomb pattern pads. Usually a 200 grit, like mentioned 👍
Thanks for your reply. I will track one of these down!
@@Graters1989 good luck brother. Hit me up on Instagram if you have other questions. @Visionstoneandtile
What if my miter needs to go the other way, for an inside corner?
What type of disk you have on the variable grinder?
Can I mitre before cutting length? I want to make tiler’s job easier (they don’t do mitres where I live)
Good job bro👍
🙏🙏🙏
Great video. 7” blade should also help with deflection.
I should try that sometime!
How long did it take the two of you to finish that edge wall, subtracting the time you took to film the video?
Hi what’s the name of the grinder pad for smoothing the edges of the chipped tile? Amazing job guys love it!
Those are diamond buffing pads. Readily available on amazon, or through tile stores/distributors 🙏
Nathan Merrill Many thanks 🙏🏽
Hey Jeff! It varies a little depending if the hardness of the tile, but typically a 50, 100, or 200 grit 👍
Is the variable speed grinder a must? If so, what speed is good for easing edges?
It will make life much easier. Some guys run buffing pads on battery powered grinders(8-10k rpms) with success. Corded grinders spin much faster usually (10-12k rpms) and its a bit dangerous. Most pad manufacturers don't want you going over 5-6k rpms. We run our dials on our buffers from 1.5-4 depending on the tile. The variable speed gives you far more control.
Great tip, guys! Saved me a lot of hassle and wasted tiles!🏆
So u using like a sandpaper to polished those ships out of the tile ?
Thanks from Austria
skills this group of tilers have skills
when you miter by hand, are you just eyeballing the angle?
You just needed over 45 46 47 48 anything past 45 is good this way it gives you enough room in case the wall is slightly skewed
what was the internal cut length , 90 mill plus ? for adhesive
Would you be able to miter a sharp edge on a larger bridge saw
People do, yes. There are other factors that arise then, but it's doable.
What Brand And Model
Is The Part For Removing
The Bad Edges Or Chips
In The Tile To Buy ?
Can You Put The Link Plz ?
Amén.
Would it help,If you build a guide to support, or rest your tile on, to cut instead of holding the tile with your hand. Which is also safer?
Some guys do clamp their tile down while free handing with the grinder. I've never tried, and tend revert back to holding the tile with one hand, and free handing it with the grinder with the other hand. Who pays attention to safety anyways? 😅
If you have full control over it than you don't a clamp, you already have a clamp👍
That's true. My ears are always open for new techniques still!
Yo my man you are a lifesaver. Now I can snap on this tile job I’m doing tomorrow.
Right on brother!
My new Dewalt 24000 is chipping really bad on miter cuts like unusable at all is there anyway to fix that issue or do I just need to buff them out every time
I'm working like you tile setter in Egypt I like your work you very good tile setter can to be friend
I want to know a lot about this profession in America
Follow my Instagram to see lots of tile photos. @visionstoneandtile
What brand buffer wheels do you prefer and where do you get them?
Question. Where did you get those 4 inch buffing blades at ?
Amazon usually, but there are a few online stores. Tools4flooring, etc
Your Dewalt wetsaw will tilt to mitre so you don't have to do it that way.
I'm gonna send you some pics. of the tile work in our house. It's not even 4 years old!!! Where da F*ck was all this style tile when we were building our house!!??? We had to use these marble pencil (bars) tile to use a a way to hide the cut lines in our beveled subway tile!!! Where dah heck was all this Schluter profiles then!! Well, at least I know what we can use for the remodels after I buy my Ferrari first!! Great Video Nate. Keep at it. You dropped mad knowledge Bud!! Dirty Jersey out!!
Thanks Mike! The audio was a little loud (competing with the speaking parts), but I'm trying to get better. Yeah man, Ferrari first!
I have the grinder. What head do I need to smooth the edge of the cut.
Do you use grout as mortar? There is a lot of mortar in the joints, but it is really white?
It is white modified thinset yes, provided by the gc
You guys got great skills! Thanks for the vid and the tips. Truly helpful.
Thank you Ken
BIG THANKS GUYS
Great video, I hate jagged edges on tiles. Which buffer and pads do you use?
Any wet/dry velcro diamond pads will work really, on a variable speed grinder 👍
200 grit is a good general grit.
Thanks man !
Do you fill the miter gaps with grout or caulk?
The three options i know of are grout, silicone, and epoxy. Epoxy is the best, but is almost it's own trade to master.
There's a fourth actually called akemi. Stone surface guys would actually say this is the best option i believe. I've yet to use it.
For young man you did pretty damn good work. Be proud of yourself. The only thing I believe I saw was you were using Mastic and especially in the shower Jam where you would put screws in for the door hinges could possibly crush it because mastic will give. I myself always use a good thinset in a shower. Keep up the good work
It's white Allset by Schluter 😎
Nice video guys alot of help for me. Im going to try this to make a niche in my shower in porcelain tiles. When you relieve the front side of the tile. Does it expose the different colour porcelain? Do you just grout it in or just leave it? What did you do on this install? It looks like theres a tiny gap for grout on that edge.
Cheers!
From weakest to strongest, you can grout, color match silicone, or color match epoxy that joint full 👍
@@NathanTilesTheWorld Nice one thanks mate. I've seen a couple more examples where they leave a 2mm gap to match the grout lines too. I think I'm gonna give this ago using the angle grinder technique. I'll buy one of those polishing pads for it too. Maybe a 50 and a 200. I guess if I'm putting a 2mm gap for grout I dont have to make the chamfer right up to the edge. Maybe keep a bit of strength that way.
That's how we do it. If you make that edge too sharp, that edge becomes very fragile. Good luck brother. Look at our Instagram to see lots of images of mitered tile: @visionstoneandtile
I don’t have a buffer. Is there another way to smooth out the edges after you cut ?
Yes, diamond buffing pads from Levelin or Titan diamond tools.
I mean, sanding blocks
@@NathanTilesTheWorldugh yeah I saw them. Just for the blocks they are stilll $20. I can’t use sandpaper? lol
What brand of polishing pads do you use?
Whatever Amazon has to offer lol.
After he miters that one tile with the grinder, he comes back and smoothes and polishes it with another attachment...What is that? Buffing, sanding? Thanks
nvw, found answer in comments, great vid
Why didn't you mitre the boarder tile to follow around ?
What pad do u use to smoot the tile
200 grit dry diamond buffing pads from amazon
Is that a special buffer for tile only? Who makes it and what is the model#
It's a metabo variable speed grinder, typically for tile and stone applications.