Making a Princess Seam Dress - New and Improved!
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- Опубликовано: 4 сен 2023
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This video is sponsored by thredUP!
The lacing rings are from Renaissance Fabrics: renaissancefabrics.net/produc...
The wool fabric is from Mill End in Reno, bought in person by Abby Cox, idk if they have more: www.millendfabricsreno.com/
The linen is from fabrics-store.com/fabrics/lin...
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Хобби
"Tell me you have never seen a real woman naked, without telling me you have never seen a real woman naked."
- Someone to the painter of the 1452 painting.
Forget naked, I don’t think that man (almost definitely) ever saw a woman, period.
I literally stopped the video, to stare at the painting for a while. Didn't help 😅
Oh, that painting is one of the ones that’s haunted my art history nightmares since high school.. she’s bald! Her boobs are in her armpit! Send help immediately! 😆
He most definietly had. This is a portrait of the mistress of Charles VII, Agnes Sorel (I love her name). She was known for her attributes. It was very unusual for medieval painters to make breasts this big, and he might have made them that way for the Kings pleasure. But anatomy lessons werent really thought, and her corset probably confused him. The high forhead was all the rage. Women at the courts shaved them that way. They also used blue make up to accent the veins. Odd fashion choice, I know.
what about childrens faces though. i mean the painter was skilled enough to create a recognizable human face, but they CHOSE to give them these expressions
"Where going to take this in a different direction colour wise" Morgan. Choosing red!?! Shocker 😂
Red does look good on her though. 😊
Right? my thought exactly! It is her signature color.
Hahaha...my thoughts exactly!
I thought she already had a red kirtle but I guess not!?
@@susanrobertson984 she does or did gave a red medieval dress but I don't know if it's a kirtle. I think the heraldry dress might be a kirtle?
"buts that's why we do mock-ups"
Rachel Maksy laughs in the distance lol
I love seeing other people’s cats messing around with the fabric while they’re trying to work. It’s such relatable problem and so dang cute 🥰
My biggest space to lay out fabric is in a room I cannot close off, and one of my cats has like Spidey senses for it. The harder I complain, the harder he purrs (and stays right where he parked 😂). Little gremlins ❤
@@mirjanbouma my table is pretty small and right in front of the window so my cats have taken a liking to sitting on it, and I have to use the floor in the living room if I need more space. So it’s a given that I’m dealing with cats no matter what! My female is also very fond of strings and chewing paper so more than half of my patterns have bitten corners or pieces ripped off, and my measuring tape has little holes where she attacked it. She also chewed the end of my wooden ruler, she is luck she’s cute because those are the least of her crimes!
I had a cat that would scoot under the fabric while the dog pounced. Lots of screaming commenced...
@@mirjanboumaI have one cat with spidy senses for fabric and another who can smell anytime I’m working with raw wool (I needle felt). She’s a menace around wool. I’d hate to see what she’d do to an actual lamb 🐑 😳
Every time I set out fabric to cut, my cats think I'm laying out a new bed for them to perch on. 😂 And forget pattern weights - those are cat toys!
22:25 - that works with the source material too - it's a dress for a nursing mother, whose shape in that area might change quite drastically over a year or so. It would make sense for her to own a dress that is quick and easy to adjust in that particular area!
And also to be able to unlace and flip down a side to nurse.
The animated gargoyle was an amusing touch. Looked almost cat-like...🤔
the rare bingus gargoyle
Red kirtle society.❤ How did you not have a red one yet?! This one is lovely. My first historical dress was a kirtle I made following your tutorial for Halloween 2019.
As someone who starts most projects with a vague plan and wings it from there, it's so interesting to see this try-modify-try process done in this way! Gorgeous work. Is it weird that I think it would be funny to do a little applique of a pair of apples in the bodice lining, somewhere floating off towards the shoulder?
😊
for anyone with a worse memory than Morgan (I'm including myself in that group); I mark my sleeves with a piece of painters tape and write on it L or R. It also helps pre sewing shut with marking which side is the right side of the fabric whenever that is necessary, as i always place my pieces of tape on the wrong side. Thank you for your historical whimsy Morgan!
Very helpful, thanks
That's a great idea!
Ooh I'm gonna try this with my next project!! It's gonna have French seams, so I need a way to mark which side is the outside.
MY mother described her grandmother walking down the street, seeing a dress on a woman and following her for a block or so, maybe even speaking to her about the dress, and going home, drawing the pattern for the size she wanted to make it on newspapers, and making the dress, all in a weekend. She made things for her children and grandchildren, as well as for herself. It's so amazing to hear about, but you seem to have a talent related to that. So fascinating to watch and hear the process!
Oh man, a "true to the anatomy of the source material" costume for Halloween would be amazing. :D
21:14 I use colored pins for directional stuff, so Red is always left, and Green is always right. That way they never get mixed up because the ONLY pins in that one (plus an extra one for 'marking" I will stick in an easy-to-see place) are green or red. Everything is color-coded the same every time.
I do that with my ring markers on my knitting. Say four markers for raglan sleeves. One will be red/orange for the stop and start of the rounds and the others will be blue or green (for go).
@@karladenton5034 It seems like such a little thing but it can be an absolute lifesaver! Sort of like ironing lol
There's this moment where you're lining up the red outer layer of the dress with the linen lining and your cat is playing with the swoosh of the fabric and my heart got so happy and full in those 2 seconds🥹💜😭
You should look up a saya encordata, for something different. 13th-14th century Spain. There's an extent piece from the tomb of Lenore of Castille from around the early 1200's but there's also pictures of it all the way into a early 1300's church. Also look up King Alphonso the 10th of castille's Book of games. There's some fantastic depictions of late 1200's clothing from a few different cultures.
Thanks
Ok, the cottage, the bed, the lanterns, this dress... you're definitely up to some 1450s shenanigans! Love it!
I love how you show different ways to make up patterns!
It makes it easy to use your videos as references as you show theres no one way to do a thing. Thank you for that!
This channel is SO FAR out of my normal wheelhouse and now here I am having binge-watched like 5 videos in a row. Great stuff, have a sub!
living for your cat pouncing on the fabric at 16:14 lol, she's helping!
Cats being cats! They always gotta help!
I like to make hip length mock-ups and then use that as a lining. That way I don’t have to line the whole thing and it gives more stability to the lacing.
Ah, thanks for the great idea!!
I’m so glad you didn’t end up with your “apples in your armpits”! That literally made me laugh out loud. Gorgeous dress!
We have a roomba that cleans the floor daily. We have 3 cats. Anything floor skimming worn inside collects dust mice, worn outside in Central Florida gets a flat green bur that can be spread throughout the laundry and never leave until you pick them off individually. This is my extremely awkward way of agreeing with your choice to cut the train off of your kirtle.
It’s beautiful, your projects always inspire me. I’m just going 😮😅🤓
Such a neat breakdown! I do love your other stuff too but it is also fun to see a return to Medieval Dresses in lovely fabrics. I just love it all! Also we must extend credit to your diligent assistant there- so much interest in tailoring from one who goes naked is dedication!
I swear morgan is trying to convert me into a red lover-
This gave me boundless inspiration for my own late renaissance halloween costume!
Honestly, I love seeing all of the changes with garment vs pattern and seeing things like adding pieces, because this totally happens to everyone who makes their own garments. You buy a certain amount of fabric, or you use something leftover that you don't remember where you purchased it, and you don't need to end up in tears. Just add a piece! Thanks for showing us all of that! There's so many creators who hide these things or pretend they don't happen, but they absolutely do!
i am LIVING FOR this new Kitty Era of vids. makes me so so so happy. Also i died with your voiceover circle was hovering over the v suspish anatomy part. ur so funny.
ALSO the dress is so pretty! good job! i love the center lacing
It's a cute and funny way to censor the nudity. It may be a reference of historical art, but yt don't care! A woman's nip is a woman's nip and that's a hard NO.
Kitties always be helping! 😂 Like putting sheets on the bed. 😅
You explain things so well
I don't sew just yet, but I didn't feel like I missed anything.
My dad was in the Navy and once told me that sailors have a phrase “right red returning which means that red buoys are kept to the starboard (right) when returning to port. In the same spirit, I use red glass head pins in the right side parts of a garment to keep on track.
Its not the same in the US as elsewhere. Why? War. web.archive.org/web/20061008142707/www.iala-aism.org/web/pages/publications/docpdf/mbsenpdf/MBS1to3.pdf
My medieval cosplay is more adapting thrifted garments than making anything from scratch. However I always try and make sure that my completed garment "moves" with me. That princess seamed medieval gown moves beautifully. Looking forward to the full reveal!
Medieval and Red on you seem so natural! I stumbled upon you a few years ago looking for how to make a Princess dress and here it is. Thank you!
I really like the visible lacing in the end! At the beginning of the video it seemed like you were going to work around, or get rid of, that detail altogether but I'm glad it stuck around. Now that you say it could become your whole personality, let me be a shoulder devil and say how cool that type of lacing would be as a arm/wrist closure 👀
Fall 1929. Princess seaming was very popular with the transition to 1930s look
I have decided to keep some block / sloper patterns as fabric - easier to store and adjust if needed and they stick to the fabric I am cutting out more easily than paper does.
What fabric do you use? I'd be afraid of warping / fraying
@@mirjanbouma a sturdy cotton.
To be fair I had finally gotten a pair of trousers to fit and rather than put them on paper and then cut I used the pieces of fabric to cut the fashion fabric. I really liked how it works. Have not thought it through long term.
Save all your scraps of fusible interfacing and iron them to the backs of your paper patterns crazy quilt style. It will give the paper some grip … no cost cuz you were probably going to trash those scraps anyway. Even putting a few scraps in the center is helpful but I really like to cover as much as I can around the outer edges. A tissue pattern fully covered with fusible interfacing is magically transformed into a perfect paper/fabric hybrid that folds beautifully (taking up less space than it did as tissue alone), doesn’t shift about and isn’t damaged by pins.
@@cynthiadugan858 that is totally brilliant!!!!
Love the little pet print on the board, so cute!
Your sweater is just an all over color work or fair isle style. Fun to knit.
They are, but they can literally take years to complete when they're an all over pattern like that. Just as well they last 20+ years to justify the effort.
@@michellebyrom6551 A couple months if one doesnt loose interest.
Between you and Bella Mae, I get so inspired to go back and fix those little things to make my projects *just* right.
I used to be too impatient to rework something but now it is a joy to wear the things I make for myself since I don't have those mistakes nagging at me.
It's always a great day when Morgan posts 💚💚💚
Your mustard coloured shirt + black harness look is so pretty!!
I love how into this project your cat is!
I love this dress!!!! My favorite color is red. Plus, I am a bit bigger in the gut (kind of fat, in other words), but this shape would be great for me. I might even try it at some time. Thanks!!
You haven't made one of those dresses in about 2 or 3 years for that time span between making that style of dress you did really good
Could you sew your lacing rings to some sort of fabric tape or bias tape and then sew that to the fabric? Then you could machine sew that on and you would have a straight row of stitches and additional reinforcement for lacing.
I like the blue ribbon more but both are very pretty! Also your everyday style is sooo amazing!
My feline assistant looks just like yours! Same coloring and all! Wish I could post a picture here to show you. Love my gargoyle. Absolutely love your videos as well! This 48 year old woman is learning alot from you! ❤❤❤
kitty is helping in the entire process which i love
This is such a cute dress, I love the lacing rings! I really enjoy watching your whole process and seeing how you change your mind through the making of it, super interesting and makes me feel a bit better about being indecisive 😅 The hair is super cyuute too! ☺️❤️
Almost at midpoint in this, about after the million pins bit, I started to hear Morgan's voice in my head singing "do you want to make a hurdle?" as in "do you want to make a snowman?" from Frozen.... and I bet that is from an Abby video...
I've always loved that painting, whether it is Agnes Sorel or not. I just realized now that she was the mistress of Charles VII who was the Dauphin for whom Joan of Arc fought. - I love the Kirtle you made and enjoyed your video a lot.
blue lacing looked great with the red!
I have a degree in art history, and I specialized in late mediaeval art. The anatomy in this painting is thought to look like that because we think it was probably a portrait of Agnès Sorel, painted after her untimely death. It was commissioned by a man that was in love with her but could never have her. Anyway, if you shift your thinking and look at it another way, it looks like she's lying down, with her head propped up and her breasts off to the side. And her skin is white and her face is lifeless. Now all of this is speculation, I want to be clear on that. But it was commissioned by her would-be lover, and it was painted just after the time of her death, and it would explain why it looks the way it does. In life, she did apparently go around with her breast exposed. The Middle Ages were Magic! 🎶
Right, but that sort of misplaced blob isn't a rare bad boob in medieval art at all if you look at the examples. Greetings, one with a degree in cultural history.
It seems much more likely they just didnt have a reference handy, but sure dude, I guess they couldve painted a dead lady.
@@jasminv8653 Oh of course, because Mary was often depicted as nursing Jesus. But there was a fashion at the time for certain women of the court to have a boob out.
@@bustedkeaton LOL no, this artist was a master, and he didn't have a problem with female anatomy. He could always use another model for the body if that was the case.
@@jasminv8653 Also do note that this is from the Northern Renaissance, where there really aren't a lot of bad boobs going on.
Depending on your fabric, you could cut the sleaves on a diagonal grain instead of straight, so it gains a little bit of elastisaty and you can make the sleave thighter without need for buttons or another cloasure. Thats the way i learned it for historical costume sewing ❤❤❤ btw, the dress came out BEAUTYFUL!!! 🥰
This is a beautiful dress!! I loved it with the blue lacing, but you can always add it as an alternative dress option.
Yeah I enjoyed the contrast!
the cat chasing the lining fabric as you try to lay it out on the table is such a mood ;-; my sons like to do that, too
your naked gremlin is so cute, but my cats actually have some decency and wear nice tuxedos at all times :P
I love all the different ways you've managed to cover up the naked part of the painting throughout the video. Cropping it out, placing various things over it, using it as a neat place for footage
Methinks a metallic lace/ribbon would also complement the dress beautifully.
I LOVE the way that you explained the seams conceptually with miniatures. That was so genius and helpful!
As a knitter the sweater that you like is called Fair Isle Color work sweater typically Icelandic or Norwegian (but definitely in that general geographic part of the world). Just to help you look up more of those types of sweaters.
I couldn't remember the name! I used to have one when I was 11 or so and it was ridiculously warm. It was also one of the lovelier pieces I owned as a child.
I'v been eyeing one like this for 2 weeks in a local second hand shop. Sounds, like 25€ is not a bad deal for it. It doesn't suit me at all, truth to be told (lol), but it looks so cozy and warm!
I have bought the fabric and I still did not decide to make a simple Kirtle or do something more special and you published your video, now I know more or less what I want to do with my base pattern!!!! Thank you for all those little tips and for your beautiful creations!!!!
Girl I’m sure people say this a lot but you are such an attractive person! You always look so good regardless of the era of dress 😁
I love how your kitty wants to be involved in the whole process. What a good co-worker!
I love your cat. Your sewing is magical. This is so relaxing, a nice cup of tea and moment of calm, thank you.
2:20 That's the pattern that got me into sewing too! Thanks, art teacher, for giving me the pattern!
I think you either want enough length to tuck the skirting up in a belt or short enough to avoid a soaking muddy mess…I tend to go long since I get the best of both. Thanks for the video!
Oh my gosh, please tell me everything about that gorgeous cat! What is their name? What kind of cat are they? How old are they? Do they like to cuddle? Please!
I used the OG medieval kirtle tutorial for my wardrobe (shorter sleeves and about ankle length but still using the same pattern) and it was very comfortable since I used a knit fabric. This just gives me more wardrobe ideas.
ages ago, in the SCA, I had always been told that there were no princess seams in the middle ages, and then I saw this painting.
what a sweet cat. I had a black one that insisted on removing my pins from my fabric.
This is making me want to finish my medieval dress I started 3 years ago. You look amazing in this!
this looks so great and was helpful to see your process, but i think the contrasting blue ribbon looks so so much better and more intentional and stylish! or maybe it wants a deeper red ?
I like how you detailed the mock-up. May I also add that you could put the corresponding video ID. on the mock-up as well, if you think you may be confused in the future?
Love the assistant sewing cat!!!!
I made one once in cotton duck for myself as well as a tunic for hubby and a gown for baby then added block painted holly around the hems of all. And yes, I was Evile and used green & red lacing!
I love that the mock up is the same fabric from the green corset
I love the idea of blousing up the skirt with a belt. I've always stayed away from full length every day clothing, but with this new information I might be rethinking that 😁
Princess seam dresses and tops are one of the most forgiving and flattering to all figure types.
They are! ❤ So pretty
I wear pointy bras so modern princess seams are The Devil, they end up squishing my chest and sticking out the bust curve way too low
@@ellaisplottingwhere do you get your bras?
@@zvezdoblyat I swear by Triumph, specifically the Triumph Doreen - the longline shapes your waist too and is so comfy. Expansive size range, no underwires but fantastic shape, incredibly sturdy and comfortable- I live in mine, and the vintage point is perfect for most post '20s, pre '80s 20th century clothing.
@@ellaisplotting it looks great with a fantastic shape that probably looks good under modern clothes as well. But I really hate thick bra straps 😭
I have to say I preferred the contrast lacing to the red.
That Butterick was my first commercial pattern as well! Out of historically accurate stretch velveteen.
40 minutes long ❤❤❤ perfect! Gutted I'm at work and can't watch now, but I'll be getting into bed with a cup of tea to watch this for my early night. ❤
I was just going back and watching other Morgan Donner videos and boom, here's a new one!
I love red so much. This made me so happy! I did "hear" Rachel Maksy scoffing somewhere out there in the world when Morgan said "Mock-ups"...
18:34 20:38 I love your glamorous assistant!
Yes. I’ve found cutting at the floor gets it where I want it. Hence why I make everything washable. Hehehe
Fair Isle and other kinds of colorwork sweaters are also slightly warmer than single-color sweaters because the second color of yarn behind the front layer makes things a bit more plush and stops more airflow to trap heat.
This method of muslin making/pattern testing is absolutely genius.
19:44 I was listening along while working and thought you said "Kirby style." Poyo!
I did think the blue ribbon set it off really nicely too…
I haven’t used lacing rings but I’ve done button closure and lacing with eyelets. FYI I’m a DD (up to J when nursing) and could jump up and down in mine.
I didn't know (or forgot) that you have a naked cat Morgan! I love their fuzzy ears contrasted with the rest of them. I know that isn't relevant to the vast majority of the content in this video, but I got excited haha.
I like your thought process and the way you work! I'm all about trial and error and finding an easier way to do something.
Has anyone ever told you you look like Ramona Flowers? 😊 I love how you always keep your thinking process in your videos! Really been enjoying your content recently.
What is that green mock up fabric? I just keep wondering because it seems more stiff than cotton, and the surface is smooth like it's neopren or something! 😆
Anyways I love the way you explain things, it somehow teaches me so much more than most other sewing channels. Even the closeted historian (?) who actually tries to teach things... It just goes over my head 😁
It's a cotton canvas I picked up a whole roll of in a thrift store years ago, for maybe five bucks. I use it for a ton of mockups because the green is a bit too bright for my taste for an actual project, but it has such a good strength and has lasted forever.
It's always cool to see the process how these get put together. Thanks for the video!
You always teach me something new Morgan and I've been sewing for a long while, thank you!
What? No pockets? Kidding. Another gorgeous result. Great job, Morgan!
totally love this and already want to make one but: have half a million other things I have to finish first. Plus no long stretch of lovely wool. Great fullness of the skirt. Completely off topic - I want that mirror! Gorgeous.
I always do little x's on my "pattern right side up" side to not confuse the sides while sewing
"ma'am, your apples" had me in stitches!! Someone's cutlet hath gone awry! 🤣😅😂
With directional sleeves, carry the right sleeve in your right hand and left sleeve in left hand. It means you never need to struggle to remember which is which! By the way, you look stunning in red!
Only if you aren't a scatterbrained disaster on two legs 😂
(I'm not talking about Morgan btw. It's me, I'm the disaster)
@@mirjanbouma Mark it with chalk. Make it easy on yourself.
@@dianesawyerdooley4424 yeah I've had bad experiences with that.
I mark a bLue and a Red X on the sleeves in thread. That works for me.
I love how you pattern out things. It's taught me a lot and how to trial and error my patterns.
I paused at 4:03 because of my own pet distracting (asking for pets) and when I came back noticed the little paw print on your wood surface ^^
Good call on taking the neck in a bit more! I enjoyed learning about lacing rings! I didn't realize they were a thing!
I've been missing you lately! So glad to come across this in my procrastination this morning!