Smyth Busters: Is It Bad To Mix Gun Oils?
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- Опубликовано: 18 июн 2024
- Today's item of firearm "received wisdom" is the old adage that you should NOT mix gun oils. Is true or it a myth? Brownells Gun Techs™ Caleb and Steve point out that, "All gun oils are not created equal." Caleb tells us about some empirical evidence our friends at Sons of Liberty Gun Works discovered when testing their new SPEC76 gun oil. Different gun oils have different formulas and additives that can lead to "unwanted results" when you combine them. Worst case scenario: two oils react badly to each other and solidify to gum up your gun's action. When you switch from one oil to a new one, you should thoroughly clean ALL the old oil out of the gun before applying the new. There are some situations where it's OK or you may even want to mix gun oils - the guys explain how that works. (Hint: mixing a simple, thin oil like Remington's Rem-Oil with Break-Free probably won't lead to disaster.) Even so, the "myth" is NOT BUSTED. If you don't mix gun oils, you won't have to worry about your gun being sidelined by an adverse chemical reaction!
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This is excellent advice. I once made the mistake of mixing Hoppe's #9 Gun Oil with Ballistol, and was shocked at how horrible it tasted.
Hahaha fav comment so far
Funny.
First comes laugh, then comes cry. Years ago at work the hostler opened the door on a trailer placarded for poison and detected a foul odor. He immediately closed it and put the trailer in the yard. The swing shift supervisor decided to get in it to investigate and was overcome by the fumes, earning a trip to the ER. Not to be outdone, the graveyard supervisor got in the trailer and tasted the shipment, earning himself a hospital stay.
Hahaha!
Ballistol has always tasted bad for me
"My gun is broken."
"No, you're just out of bullets."
LOL
Yeah that cracked me up, "No your out of bullets"
if anyone says the gun is broken because of an oil issue. Id like to know what part it is that the oil broke? I like the other response says...when he mixed them they tasted bad. If it tasted bad, I can imagine how bad they smelled before he drank um...ha ha ha
I have never, even once, completely cleaned old gun oil out of any gun before switching oils. Zero problems.
Same. And I use hopps 9 with gun butter. I use gun butter for the parts that get heavy ware and hopps 9 on everything else. So they do contact each other a little haven’t had any problems actually works very well.
I never have either or heard of anyone doing it. I was actually really surprised by their answer. I know people who mix their own blends of oils and grease and they've never had any problems. If it works for you I say keep using it.
Damn it Jim!! I’m a gunsmith!!!! Not a biologist!!!!
Perfect!
@@EastTNGunDoctor thanks.
😇
Can he define what a "woman" is? If so we need him on the Supreme Court!
I would have fell out of my seat had he said it. As the words were leaving his mouth I was waiting for it. Glad someone said it.
Chemist, but ya I get the point.
Former chem lab guy here. Oil additives (and just about anything in a synthetic oil) can cause a problem if it has not been specifically tested by mixing with other oils/additives. I've seen a common additive that is used in numerous synthetic polymer mixtures turn to a solid as soon as it enters mixture. This may not happen immediately, but may happen when contacting different powder/primer residues and heat. Best to NOT MIX!
Thanks for the input, from what I have read, the additive packages to these oils are all trade secrets, which makes finding incompatibilities difficult.
Thanks for your insite!
What do you use for a cleaner, lubricant, and protectant?
@@5jjt I personally use Hoppes #9 for cleaning (I'm not picky as long as it cleans). I use Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil for lube/protect. It's rated for high temperatures (auto/suppressor) use. It's a little thick, so I popped some in my 0 degree freezer to make sure it would still flow and it does.
If you want an all-in-one product, Radco Industries supplies the US military with their CLP. They sell it to the civilian market as Radcolube CLP.
@@Athonite API has a test standard for motor oils so they are all compatible with each other. That is not so with other lubricants.
ProjectFarm has a great video comparing gun oils and their properties. Definitely worth the watch. The oldies aren't really protecting your firearms particularly well.
Yeah, watched the video. Good one
It’s a good video and I love project farm. But while his tests were informative, they do not perfectly
Mimic the conditions of being used on a firearm
Project farm is heavily underrated.
@@collinis1 I do give him a lot of credit for humility and honesty though, he has done follow-ups in the past, when possible errors were pointed out in his methods.
Not protecting them particularly poorly either.
I'm a gunsmith, not a chemist.
Priceless!
I mixed Hoppes no. 9 with Hoppes no.9 right after using Hoppes no. 9.
I made a gun oil called AR siracha. I grabbed the idea from school of the American rifle. Basically, I combined synthetic motor oil and gear grease. Together to the consistency of honey. Its way better than anything I have used before.
Being a career auto mechanic...47 years.. I have found Snap On tool's air motor oil is perfect for my guns. This oil is designed for high speed rotating parts and withstands high operational pressures and heat. Most importantly it is guaranteed to be anhydrous. It has zero moisture content. Terrific for the last swab-out in gun bores.
I would imagine all air tool oil is fine for guns. So is 0w-30 motor oil. You could probably lube em your whole life with trans oil too, with no ill effects...depending on climate.
I've been debating motor oil and mineral oil (separately). Interesting.
@@Valorius As I said in my other comment, I've thought about using motor oil or mineral oil and I've heard of using 0W-30. Interesting.
interesting . I made it 49 years ( '64 - 2013 ) and used ATF in all my air tools . no problems . but never in guns .
Thanks. Good to know.
Always quality stuff from Brownells! Thanks guys
I love these videos. Very informative and free to the public. Thank y’all.
You guys have really stepped up on these Smyth Busters segments. Keep it up.
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing 🙏
I never had an issue mixing oils of the same type (petroleum based or synthetic based). However i have had issues when i used petroleum or synthetic on a gun that had biodegradable oil on it. But the fix is easy, clean the gun with a solvent (gun Scrubber ect) and then apply the new oil you want to use.
Very informative video and something that I've never thought about. You guys do a great job of being to the point, not hyping your products, and explaining your points. I would imagine that the issue of mixing gun oils is less of a problem for revolvers, bolt action, and single shot rifles. But I could see there might be a chemical reaction that mars the finish on some mixtures. FYI, I think the little bottle with the long nipple is Lucas gun oil. Good stuff for sure.
Love yalls stuff. I switched from hoppes to break free CLP a while back. I just assumed it was best to clean the old oil out.
The Project Farm RUclips channel recently did a comparison of gun oils and the results were very interesting. After watching the video, I think I will stop using Ballistol.
I was reading the comments to see if anyone mentioned the Project Farm video. You beat me to it!
I run all my firearms solely on Ballistol too. I saw that video and, like you, I think I will change. I just like the non-toxic aspects of it and it does do the job. I may admit that it can get a little gummy buildup and also it freaking stinks! What have you considered moving to?
Thank you for publishing this video. So many people don't understand this. I also use synthetics and I don't mix them with petroleum products.
It's possible that some of the few failure to cycle I've had with my semiauto weapons may have been due to mixing gun oil. Can't be that I don't clean my weapons as often as I should.
Speaking from an Industrial Maintenance point of view I've been told by lubrication specialists that mixing oils or grease can damage rotating or sliding equipment. I have seen this happen. "Cold" with very little time in operation didn't seem to be a problem but running for a little time and heat build up changed the lube properties into a non lubricating substance and trashed bearing surfaces. Do a thorough cleaning before putting in a new lubricant.
Great information! Thank you!
Great video. I have been mixing oils for years. I haven't had any problems....
I'd think that's the case for most people. If your oil reacts with other oils, then it's a bad gun oil and shouldn't be used.
@@deucedeuce1572 that’s not true at all, you seem to be assuming everyone needs nothing more then basic light duty gun oils. If your talking the basic stuff found at every hardware store and Walmart to lube up the old hunting rifle to take 2 or 3 shots then your correct there’s no reason to complicate things, however that’s not everyone’s use profile and therefore other lubricants are required.
Personally I use the Lucas oil for hunting, it works great and is very low odor. I’ve mixed with Hoppes and rem oil with no I’ll effects. For things like my 1911 is where other things like heavy grease comes into the picture. It can see hundred of rounds in a session, targets don’t run from the smell of oil, and at the cost of a match grade pistol I want to bring wear to an absolute minimum.
@@jaydunbar7538 "not everyone's"... but I didn't say everyone. Most people just don't get into using crazy oils and have no loyalty to any specific gun oil. They try different things and mix oils on a regular basis. I guess I shouldn't say "most people", but that's been my observation with most gun owners I know (those that actually fire, clean and regularly lubricate their guns).
@@jaydunbar7538 I use grease and oil also. (never had a problem from mixing them or mixing different oils).
I’ve got a couple of K31’s that I really enjoy. I then purchased 3 or 4 old cleaning kits and I’ve been using magic Swiss grease on the moving parts of my semi auto’s like the AR’s, Garands, etc.
Thanks, sure appreciate your informational videos.
Huh! I never thought about this. Much appreciated.
I learned the motor oil trick years ago on a late season, evening dove hunt. The birds were flying high and fast, so I had brought my father's 60's era Ducks Unlimited Rem 1100 12 ga with a 30" full choked barrel. It had been a safe queen for the years after I acquired it and immediately found that it wouldn't cycle; my semi automatic had become a single shot. The extractor looked good, so I removed the barrel and everything was dry as a bone, absolutely zero lubrication. Nowadays I never go shooting without a cleaning kit, but this was the hunt where that lesson dawned upon me. I had no lubricants available, so I popped the truck hood and pulled the dipstick. I slathered the inner workings with a thin film of 10-30 weight oil and commenced to having a fabulous high speed/altitude dove shoot!
Great video and I agree in theory different TYPES of gun oil should not be mixed (in a perfect world). Oils such as synthetics (POE, PVE, etc) and true mineral oils can react negatively, "gumming up" and what not. Quite a common mistake in my world of HVAC. For the most part if you stay with synthetic or mineral you should never have an issue, regardless of brand. Just like a car. How many gun owners have 5+ types of lube on their workbench and have zero issues?
Now, I do not believe for a second that Sons of Liberty Gun Works had an entire police department all hate their oil and every single cop made the exact same mistake of mixing oils (maybe they all hated the oil, but the cause was not behavior based). This sounds like the kind of line vendors tell us all the time trying to explain away their substandard product. Always user error and never the product's fault. BTW, you need a decent amount of oil to react this way, basic lubrication is no where near enough to cause "gumming" unless you dip your firearms into vats of lube. Not to mention that SOLGW states their "S.P.E.C.76" is "Thicker than oil" and claims to "adheres to metallic surfaces at a molecular level." Sounds like they are trying to do something similar to Anderson's "no lube rifle" of treating the metal with their "RF85 process." Creating a low friction surface is very different from "lubrication." I could see how existing oil on the firearm could prevent this from taking place (again, in theory) but they should state that VERY CLEARLY on the packaging that the gun should be cleaned, to the bone, with a solvent to completely remove any other oils and chemicals on / in the metal.
P.S. Per the video's description the account from SOLGW would be anecdotal, not "empirical evidence."
nothing SOLGW says should ever be taken seriously lol, haven't we learned this already?
@@chad9166 I thought the same actually ;)
Lol... when I said "horseshit" the above is what I meant in Infantry language!
The mixing of different types of petroleum products is called “commingling”. This process can quickly result in turning to petroleum products into a gel.
This happens normally when you go with an aerosol to a non aerosol, ie a cleaner to a heavy lubricant. It’s one of the first things they teach you in the petroleum lab school
I love buying and using different gun oils. Have and use 10+ different oils on all my guns at any time. 1911’s mostly. Never any issues. I will now rethink my lifestyle.
Don’t bother rethinking. Since I was 12,now 62, I’ve been over lubing all my firearms with many different types of oil. Whatever oil is on sale, I buy it! I have never had a problem with my firearms!!!! I have never seen this mysterious gum they talk about. Never seen the mysterious build up of dirt and debris. This you-tube wildfire talk of gun oils and cleaners is absolutely laughable!
I respect Brownells but these guys are wrong, keep doing what your doing cause it didn’t break anything, so don’t fix it
@@albertforletta1498 yup!! 👏🏽 these guys just talking up false things
@@albertforletta1498 "I jaywalk and have never been struck by a car, therefore jaywalking is safe" laughable logic there dude
I've mixed desiel oil and thin brake grease together and my AR ran fine in the heat. On a colder day (40 degrees) it would slow the bolt down slightly but I never had cycling failure. After that experience I only use the diesel oil. Grease runs better in the Glocks and Aks.
Well, THIS explains the accuracy problem I've been having. My friend's Glock 19 hits the bullseye when he shoots it twice as often as my Glock 19 when I shoot it. All he ever uses is Ballistol on his Glock and I use 3-in-1 oil mixed with RemOil mixed with Wilson Combat grease mixed with Dr. Pepper.
I also made the mistake of mixing Hoppe’s No.9 with Rem Oil, and my wife hated it, so I went back to just Hoppe’s. The key is to not overdo it. Just a couple of drops on your hands and then rub it well into your beard and chest hair should do it. 👍🏻
Good show
I use the newer safariland CLP for cleaning on all semi automatic firearms I have, and hopper’s black precision oil for bolt guns more or less for nostalgia. I also use hopp’s to help set spray paint set up and reduce IR reflection. I found this out by accident that the oiled areas blended the medium brown colors better under night vision.
Thanks for the didactic information on firearms. My contribution to your request for commentary is the following:
The reference to cleaning and oiling a gun for metallic rust protection and lubrication. The concepts are independent and individual but based on the concept of a cleaning solvent and oiling to create a hydrodynamic wedge between 2 metal parts as well driving off water for rust prevention.
Most synthetics motor oils are compatible with petroleum oils.
The basic Olefin molecule is the lubricating aspect of “oiling”
Most oils also carry naphtha which is the solvent component of “oils”
Some products may contain gums and waxes for surfactant permanece on metal surface once the solvent medium or carrying vehicle has evaporated from the metal
I switched from Break Free to Ballisto (it is better on black powder to prevent tar like fouling) some years ago and had some gummed up firearms. Syncro sip was awesome - at least a 9.5.
Really good one today guys. As a many year user of the Wilson Combat oils, lubes, and cleaners I am a fan. The universal is about as perfect as I have ever found for lube. Hot cold or otherwise it just stays put and works.
Will give it a shot. I like Mobil One synthetic. Excellent oil in hot/cold temps, can get it in many thicknesses and it's one of the best rust preventatives I've ever seen. CV-2 is an excellent grease for sliding parts too. Not sure about extreme temps though as I haven't had the chance to test it myself. (though I'm sure both have been tested by many other people with info online).
@@deucedeuce1572 I have used a fair amount of Mobil One in the machine shop and I use it in both of the family cars. It even makes a decent way oil. I rank it as a top level "all around " oil. For specialty stuff I think there is a small performance gain to be had with specialty lubes. For instance, I do prefer genuine way oil for the lathe. It won't be a huge difference, but I do feel that the Wilson Combat lubes give me a small performance gain on my firearms. I think you will be happy.
Thanks.
Been using full synthetic 10w 40 motor oil. I hardly clean my guns. And they run fantastic even after 1000 rounds of not cleaning. Especially AK47/AKM platform.
Mobil One synthetic for me. Excellent lubricant, can get in several viscosities, works well in weather extremes and is an excellent rust preventative. (and it's dirt cheap).
@@deucedeuce1572 I use the exact same brand. Mobile 1 for the win.
Full synthetic 0W 20 best gun oil I've ever used.
For Over 40 years I have been using a light sewing machine oil it’s always worked fine for me. And for loosening stuck parts and cleaning gunk in your weapon brake fluid and ATF mixed works real well make sure you clean it all off before you put your regular oil on.
I mostly clean with Breakfree CLP and been using Hoppes oil. IDK if that's bad or not. My AR's and AK's bolts and rails also get some Lucas Oil RED grease. So far, so good. But I'll really try this '1' oil regimen in my semi-auto pistols for sure. Thanks for clarifying this.
Great advice there.
It might have been a good idea to give a few examples of gun cleaning products that could be used when changing from one gun oil to another.
Great topic. Mixing chemicals, lubricants and solvents is a recipe for disaster. I have experienced this on guns and fishing reels. Thanks for another great video.
Yes, I'd love to see commentary from some chemical engineers in the industry. Similar to motor oils, it's the additives that can really cause potential problems in lubricants. But gun oils are more proprietary and less transparent than engine oils (which have API certification), so the precise chemical incompatibilities are going to be harder to track.
I use a combo of TW25b and Weapon Shield. Works beautifully and stays where you put it. Just my 2¢.
Ive been mix matching for almost 15 years since ive found a good clp grease. Honestly, ive never had a problem. Hard to reach places amd small springs get the liquid clp/ Lucas oil. Bcg, bores, chambers, slides etc. Or other large components get the clp grease. Never found rust yet *knocks on wood*. I just use a dry cloth or paper towel right before I go range or the farm and wipe the excess off. Then I use those towels or whatever to clean the guns I used for that day. Saves me money this way. 👍👍
I have never had an issue with that. But have had clod weather stop a semi auto in its tracks. So now I run super slick stuff if them !
From my experience, the problem arises from _Mixing Teflon/PTFE and Oil._ The liquid part of the Teflon Spray is just a carrier, it evaporates and leaves the DRY Teflon behind. Think of Mixing - _Flour and Oil_ - it become a sticky mess. I've not had a problem mixing Oil with Oil or Synthetic Oil with Non-Synthetic Oil. The problem is mixing DRY Lube with Wet Lube.
Great video
I have been using Ballistol to clean with, and following up lubing moving parts with FP10, or Geissele go juice. Been working great thus far. The Go Juice seems to capture the carbon on DI firearms BCG's, but it stays slick.
I bought and used many guns, mostly revolvers, semi auto handguns. I used Ballistol 🇩🇪 often. Also Froglube 🐸. Both were fine but in 2022, I prefer Slip 2000 EWL and Clenzoil. Clenzoil is sold in a few spots so I can get a ton of it. It has no fumes or harsh chemicals. It does use a small amount of petroleum. Slip 2000 EWL is great. You can clean, lube guns. No issues with pistol night sights or grips, rubber, wood.
I've had to definitely use Rem oil on my old Mossberg 44 just to get in a penetrate and clean out decades of gunk on the bolt mechanism. Fun bit with the mossberg 44 is how the bolt is assembled, if you don't take it apart to clean properly and routinely, eventually it will just fire every time you engage the bolt. That's how I received the rifle, it was way more difficult to unscrew the rear of the bolt than it should have been, so I'm assuming it had been a while since it had been disassembled. I bought slip 2000 as my new lube with my recent AR build, so I'll be cleaning everything out and switching it all to the slip 2000 for now.
Actually, the main line I use in my firearms is a mix of valvoline red high temp grease and Lucas extreme duty gun oil. It's been working great for me and theres much less wear on the parts compared to using just oil
Lucas extreme Duty Gun oil is pretty hard to beat. It works extremely well and you don’t need much of it.
During the Second World War the German army found out that Sun flower oil did not congeel or gum up the German army firearms even in the extreme cold of the Winters in the Northernmost part of the Soviet Union ie. Leningrad Area
I use the red mix shown on SOTAR. Hands down the best I've seen since Frog Lube.
(USMC infantry and law enforcement veteran here)
Hoppes for small tight areas(chosen arbitrarily, works fine) and Mil-Com grease for heavier moving/rubbing parts on all my firearms and it's worked great
Of all the things in life to worry about, this isn’t one of them for me. Your mileage might vary.
I would think that this would have more adverse effect on an automatic versus like a bolt rifle or revolver...but very valid point all the same
Glad you made this video, I did not know you shouldn't mix them. I generally stick to the same oil so I've never done it, but doesn't mean it wouldn't have happened. I'm still early on in my gun enthusiasm 😂
I would love to hear your take on the use of dry teflon powder (particularly on the rails of a semi-automatic pistol in cold weather). Yes, I have heard a lot about the use of teflon mixed in with wet oils, but no-one has really addressed the use of *just dry teflon powder*. My experience with it has been favorable, but I would like hear from others.
I do not use gun oil from aerosol cans, just a personal preference.
I use Rem oil, Lucas Extreme Duty gun oil, and Militec. I use Rem oil for the inside lube and Lucas for maintaining the finish.
Years ago I read about guys in the military that used one quart synthetic motor oil, one quart transmission fluid, and a bottle of Hoppe's No. 9 mixed together. Supposedly it worked great on their M-16s and M4s and made cleaning easier.
Mobile-1 Full Synthetic > Expensive Gun Oil
This
Glad I watched this
Good stuff. I Never put teflon-based (PTFE) oils in my barrels.
I've used grease, motor oil, and diesel for different reasons on my Browning A5, AR15 bolt carrier, and M1 garand.
That M-Pro 7 CLP is some great stuff.
Marvel Mystery Oil is my CLP ! Works great, and doesn't turn to rock hard yellow varnish like motor oil when used for long term gun storage.
Caleb has a secret mixture of gun oil for his hair. Thousands have gummed up their coiffures trying to find his secret.
I'm not sure ... at camp Upshur in 1982, when returning from the range we scrubbed our rifles (which I'm sure had seen service at Ke Shan) in with toilet brushes in trash cans full of hot water and sudsing Bo Peep amnonia. Then dried them in the sun, and lubed them in whatever 20W was in the little bottle.
They still worked the next day.
I make my own gun oil with Lucas oil stabilizer, red wheel bearing grease, motorkote, and pb blaster max lubricant. Mix according to purpose. Thickest for long term storage, medium for winter shooting, thicker for summer shooting. Works great and lasts a long time. Also, I use rem oil to clean guns. I only use a rag to wipe it off. Never had a problem with residual. Guns don't seem to care what type of oil is used as long as they are wet. Thicker oil in hot temps and thinner in cold.
If I remember right it was Lester Bruno that told my father all he’s used for a very long time is 0/30 Mobil 1 mixed with mineral spirits. It’s what I’ve been using for 13 years now.
Recommendations for Stainless Steel vs Carbon Steel vs Polymer Lubricants would be an appreciated subject to delve into...🤔
If you are iffy about mixing oils, pre mix a teaspoon of "oil a" and the same of "oil b" outside of your gun in a container, to be sure there "compatible"
I run a mix of Motorkote (reduces friction) and Lucas extreme (reduces corrosion and thickens the mix)
I'm testing adding LPX for longevity.
I had not cleaned the M Pro7 oil out of my AR15 when I decided to switch to Frog Lube. My rifle got so gummy it would not function. Now I'm not going to blame either product as much as I blame myself for mixing them although the M Pro7 worked fine before mixing it with Frog Lube. I cleaned all the gunk out of my rifle and switched to Slip 2000 and haven't had a problem in over 1,500 rounds fired.
So then what about grease vs oil. I'm sure it came from my dad's old military days, "if it slides grease, if it twist oil"?
I make a blend of Royal Purple synthetic grease with Royal Purple synthetic oil to the consistency that I like and I call this "unicorn blood" and I use it on all of my firearms with no issues whatsoever.
I just oil everything.
Absolutely. I've been using break-free clp from 1983 on as the local gun shop owner / smith recommended it and told me my base armory was using it also. I've been mixing it with Slip 2000 synthetic grease from 2006 ( I think ) with no I'll effect. No stoppages ever do to this combination. Clp to protect the metals and lube and Slip 2000 grease for all slide rails and contact points barrel bushings and some trigger parts. Guilty as charged
I've always mixed oils. It's kind of essential. Some oils are good for protecting the exterior (light, thin oil), some are good for lubricating internal parts (thicker but still viscous) and some are good for heavy duty, long lasting lubrication like within an AR 15 (heavy thick grease).
I'm a big fan of shooters choice FP10, my experience is it leaves a nice slick film after its been used awhile as well it tends to stay put after application.
I use FP10, but for it's cold weather functionality. I don't really care what kind of additives or special magic it has beyond the low temp operating properties.
That's why I just use CLP on everything. A few certain types get special lubricant but for most it's just CLP
Same here. I've had very good and long experience with Break-Free CLP and don't see much need to mix it up. If someone else has good experience with another gun oil, that's fine. Other oils out there are good, I just like CLP the best. I've used Break-Free on my military and police weapons, so I have confidence in the product.
I too have used regular general use CLPs of different brands, types since the 1990s. Mainly Clenzoil, Ballistol, LPX, Slip 2000 EWL, Froglube/liquid 🐸. I used to apply Hoppes 9 solvent but now just run a swab with CLP in the pistol barrel.
CLP is good for L and P but is really not good at C. How is something that is oiling the gun good at cleaning out the oil and anything under it? It's not. Dedicated cleaner or mineral spirit to clean and then oul or mineral oil to lubricate and protect.
interesting, i have rem oil and hoppe's and have been using whatevers in reach for years. guess they just play well together. but i will keep this in mind when buying new stuff.
My grandfather used motor oil on his guns..they were never wet to the touch . I have a few of them and they look fine.. seems functional. I’ve never fired them.. since before he passed, .. wow, maybe I should take another look at them. Inspect them . It’s been a while lol
Never tried mixing oils intentionally.... Tried a lot of oils. I have had experiences where I was switching oils and did not get the gun as clean as I though I did and the new oil did not want to go onto the metal. But that's is the worst I have even seen.
I'm about to buy a new gun oil, thanks for the info. I'll make sure to clean the old one off
Thanks, again! I was always taught, "Do Not Mix Gun Oils..." I stick with Hoppes, CLP or one other (an outer coating, makes the weapons I put it on, "shine"-primarily to sit) and have been happy with all... But, have debated using some mineral oil, I've read about and seen used; even motor oil, similar to what I've read in the comments. I am open to any ideas that work!
I used Ballistol 🇩🇪 from 1997 to 2022. It's a mineral oil type CLP spray. It's CFC free and can prevent rust, clean lead-dirt. It's safe on wood, rubber, polymer, most after market gun coatings. NP3, Cerakote, etc. Don't use it on paint or nickel. I currently use more Clenzoil CLP and Slip 2000 EWL. Often I get Slip 2000 725 brand gun cleaner too but Simple Green(concentrate) is ✅.
@@DavidLLambertmobile Thanks, brother! I was just apprised of Ballistol (yep, I know who and when it was used by, in the beginning). Having seen the 15 minute ProectFarm video, I'm debating using it, except to loosen the gunk that can build up... As said, I use Break Free CLP, Hoppes and Flitz metal polish and cleaner (used on marine craft, too, good for keeping my guns "shiny" looking and use it, primarily, for storage). Slip 2000 EWL, may be trying that one! Also, Simple Green? Then again, I would believe it! I use it for other things, so makes sense another thing it works on well! Thanks, again!
I have a small bottle of Breakfree CLP and a big spray can of Rem oil. I mix and match all the time. No problems.
Mil-comm... TWB25 gun grease and MC2500 semi fluid..
I clean with rem oil, I lubricate with hoppers elite gun oil. If I'm running suppressed with a dirty gun and it gets dry I just spray the BCG down with rem oil to keep it going until cleaning.
I never cared for Rem oil because I did a run and gun (jungle walk) at knob creek machine gun shoot and found after the event my MAC 10 was dry as a bone. The Rem oil seemed to just evaporate and being a very damp day I had rust forming in the corners on the inside of the receiver.Rem Oil I would not recommend for any firearm.
I switched to TW 25B lube and never had any problems or rust appear.
TW25B keeps my belt fed guns running all day as well.
I use Otis dry lube and Lucas oil gun oil. Both pretty thin. No problems.
For 1911’s and P210 I use Wilson Combat oils. Petroleum based. And some parts get heavy formula and some get light oil. No problems. ARs get different grades of Slip2000. If I mix it’s all the same brand.
OK so what about using grease and oil at the same time? I prefer to use a very light grease on surfaces that slide past each other, especially on fast moving parts where regular oil doesn’t want to stay put. For example, the top of the hammer and bottom of bolt carrier in a modern sporting rifle. However, there are times when my grease and oil may end up together …
I have used Remoil and CLP pretty much interchangeably without any ill effects I can see.
I've been mixing gun oils for years without realizing that I was doing the wrong thing. I'm glad I saw this i think its time to go back and change this way of maintenance.
My guess is that you were doing nothing wrong. Don't change it if it's working for you.
@@curteaton it’s great that nothing bad has happened but it’s still a bad habit that can easily be changed
Wasn't wrong if it didn't cause any problems. Most people I know use more than one lubricant on each firearm, especially using oils on some parts and grease on others.
It's not always a problem.
You can even test different lubes on something besides your gun to check for issues.
Yeah, if you've been doing something for years and never noticed any issues, you should definitely change what you've been doing.
Thanks.
This applies to grease as well. If two oils are of a similar formula where they are compatible it won't hurt. But you better know what the two oils are made from.
THANKS
Good Video.
What about oil compatibility with solvents. Say Hoppys 9 with Remoil? I have been using white grease and Remoil on my M1s for years with no problems after cleaning with Hoppys and Butch's bore solvents. One for copper the other for powder deposits.
I use 30w non detergent motor oil. Never have I had a problem,plus its a lot cheaper.
I make a blend of Royal Purple synthetic grease with Royal Purple synthetic oil to the consistency that I like and I call this "unicorn blood" and I use it on all of my firearms with no issues whatsoever.
One of my Glock armorers schools, I asked the instructor what lube they used at the assembly bench. Whatever we get free.
Correct information
Lucas grease and oil is what I have used for years.
In addition , nothing should be mixed with coffee. And by that I mean NOTHING.
I only drink black coffee extra strong. Can't stand sugar in it and can taste one grain of sugar in my coffee. My family has tried that on me a few times thinking I wouldn't notice and I had to yell at them for making me dump a cup of coffee down the drain.
If God intended for coffee to be sweet he'd have made the bean sweet. Who am I to to try and improve on his perfection? Lol
@@JamesSmullins I honestly, swear to God I thought I was the only human in this planet that drink coffee the way it suppose to be drank. Black and strong.
@@paraAA82 there's not many of us, and I'm glad because that means when people are here and I have coffee brewing they won't ask for a cup leaving it all for me.
I had a good friend who was a retired marine and he said it was stronger than what they had, he didn't like it because it reminded him of too many nights drinking it to stay awake while on duty lol
@@JamesSmullins 👍
100% depends on the coffee.
I hadn't even considered different oils interacting badly but still I don't mix them since I never add new oil on top of old and strip all old traces first .
I'm not picky , just won't use snake oil .
Just look at the manufacturer’s MSDS sheet, and you might find they’re not all different. I’m mainly carrying and shooting revolvers now, so my oil use is VERY little. One or two drops of Lucas on the yoke barrel and extractor rod.