Excellent video. The way you leave your boat between races is almost as important as pre-race set up. My club sails on salt water. I always suggest a good fresh water rinsing and airing out. Unplug the battery to keep stray electrons from causing trouble. Always test your boat before race day. Few things more frustrating that finding your boat doesn’t work at the race venue!
@@sailwars I’m not sure…I’m leaning to a Vintage 36 that I built this winter. I’m the Vintage 36 coordinator for the U.S. Vintage Yacht Group. I should wave the flag, so to speak.
When off the water sheet tension should always be eased. It keeps your bungee healthy and reduces possibility of blowing over on the stand. The tensioner doesn’t need to go through any of the screw eyes. Better a straight run from 2nd forward eye to the clip. If slack the line comes off the drum requiring peeling the scab to rewind. Keep your tensioner happy. The jib and main clew (outhaul) adjusters should be apart to allow the hookidoo to swivel and not detrimentally affect the sail shape. I prefer to use a line on the jib tack as the supplied metal hookidoo doesn’t allow the tack area to move properly. The short keel ROCKS and is how I sail when not competing. I also use a 95 rudder. Under B sail conditions wind 17 and above this configuration will plane as a 95 does. The long keel trips the boat in puffs. Also the short keel allows the boat to “power-up” a bit more quickly making it a light air bandit. Short keel will handle the A+ up to 12. Then the A sail to 17. Above that the B sail is the most fun you’ll have with the 65. It handles beautifully. Thanks Bart. Well done. After re watching I noticed a couple things; The mast stub in is upside down on the pink boat. The stub ring goes between the mast and top vang bearing. The extra rings on the sheets would make it extra hard to remove the rig and aren't legal.
Great video Bart. I take your point about the elastic - I'm gonna leave it detensioned from now on. I've never removed the counterweight. About the main downhaul I only have it slightly tensioned. But what about the forestay and the backstay, do you also detension them?
We have seen df65s raced in the same race with both keels. The shorter keels are normally faster. Some people claim that a short keel and a stock A Rig is just as fast as an A+ with the long keel. The shorter keel weighs less and has less resistance cutting through the water. Now remember, we are talking about winds less than 10 mph. Above that, you need the longer keel with an A+ rig. With the A rig a short keel is good until 12 mph.
A video of the two keel lengths racing together would be great. Im assuming the short keel can get it to hull speed just with a lot more heeling? It would be good to see both sailing close together to see if we can spit the difference.
Excellent video. The way you leave your boat between races is almost as important as pre-race set up. My club sails on salt water. I always suggest a good fresh water rinsing and airing out. Unplug the battery to keep stray electrons from causing trouble. Always test your boat before race day. Few things more frustrating that finding your boat doesn’t work at the race venue!
So true Rob! What boat ate you entering in the Almost Any Boat Challenge?
@@sailwars I’m not sure…I’m leaning to a Vintage 36 that I built this winter. I’m the Vintage 36 coordinator for the U.S. Vintage Yacht Group. I should wave the flag, so to speak.
@ahabva Well, sign up! You know is going to reach it's limit. We want you there! Represent!
When off the water sheet tension should always be eased. It keeps your bungee healthy and reduces possibility of blowing over on the stand.
The tensioner doesn’t need to go through any of the screw eyes. Better a straight run from 2nd forward eye to the clip. If slack the line comes off the drum requiring peeling the scab to rewind. Keep your tensioner happy.
The jib and main clew (outhaul) adjusters should be apart to allow the hookidoo to swivel and not detrimentally affect the sail shape.
I prefer to use a line on the jib tack as the supplied metal hookidoo doesn’t allow the tack area to move properly.
The short keel ROCKS and is how I sail when not competing. I also use a 95 rudder.
Under B sail conditions wind 17 and above this configuration will plane as a 95 does. The long keel trips the boat in puffs. Also the short keel allows the boat to “power-up” a bit more quickly making it a light air bandit.
Short keel will handle the A+ up to 12. Then the A sail to 17. Above that the B sail is the most fun you’ll have with the 65. It handles beautifully.
Thanks Bart. Well done.
After re watching I noticed a couple things;
The mast stub in is upside down on the pink boat. The stub ring goes between the mast and top vang bearing. The extra rings on the sheets would make it extra hard to remove the rig and aren't legal.
Wow, Chris! Bart feels honored to get a cudo from you. 😀
Great tips
Thank you!
Thank you Bart.
You are very welcome!
Great video Bart. I take your point about the elastic - I'm gonna leave it detensioned from now on. I've never removed the counterweight. About the main downhaul I only have it slightly tensioned. But what about the forestay and the backstay, do you also detension them?
Some things can be left with tension. You just need to make sure your main sail and elastic (if equipped) are not tight after racing.
Thaaaaaank youuuuuuuuu!
You are welcome my friend. My goal is to make everyone a better Sailor than I am.
How long is your short keel and how can you get one?
It's about half the length. Any of the companies that sell the DF65 should also sell the short keel. Dragon Sailing is who he bought his from.
What is your theory in the short keel being quicker than the longer one?
We have seen df65s raced in the same race with both keels. The shorter keels are normally faster. Some people claim that a short keel and a stock A Rig is just as fast as an A+ with the long keel. The shorter keel weighs less and has less resistance cutting through the water. Now remember, we are talking about winds less than 10 mph. Above that, you need the longer keel with an A+ rig. With the A rig a short keel is good until 12 mph.
A video of the two keel lengths racing together would be great. Im assuming the short keel can get it to hull speed just with a lot more heeling? It would be good to see both sailing close together to see if we can spit the difference.
We will look into this!
Great idea!