It happened again... and this time it was NASTY
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2024
- I've been using PrimoChill Vue in my editing rig for 6 months now... so how has it held up?
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It happened again... and this time it was NASTY | JayzTwoCents
• It happened again... a...
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That’s what she said.
Jay, Google EK o-ring grease and milling oil contamination. EK (and some other manufacturers) applies too much grease to their o-rings and doesn't clean the milling oil off their blocks. I had a loop get contaminated by this recently. It is no joke. Primochill fittings also have this issue. IMO, your reach would really help bring this issue to the forefront.
Best comment i have seen in a long time........ :D
The commercial just skip that's new?
Anybody check for the link for the toothpaste?🤔🙄😁
weirddd
Take that you Air Cooling scrubs! At least us Water Cooling enthusiasts don't have to worry about air cooling's maintenance issues. You guys have to dust off fans with a compressor, meanwhile we have to...check for leaks, drain out liquids, thoroughly inspect materials for cracks, clean and brush off gunk, wipe off oil, and get rid of dust on fans. Wait a minute...
LOL ... well done sir!
And if it ever leaks you lost ur pc congrats
Welp, I guess an aio would do the trick
@@ekipierrobert1989 ah no. Stop spreading lies.
Whitening toothpaste does often contain some kind of peroxide based oxidizing agent for making the teeth brighter plus sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) as an abrasive. The peroxide stuff has the potential to make o-rings brittle and to damage the nickle coating even more. For scrubbing, pure baking soda mixed with a tiny bit of water to a paste should be as good and less agressive. Just saying.
"This is the first time I've used toothpaste" gross dude. Your dentist must be pissed.
@DamageIncM It's disturbing idea, that doctors in America might be happy that their patients are sick.
@DamageIncM If I were a dentist and some guy who never cleaned his teeth opened his mouth, I would probably throw up right back into that hellhole.
The Dentist would be insanely happy dude.
Hey everyone. Just so you know, this gunk might not have been cause by the erosion. This is what happened with the Primo Chill Vue UV Purple in my build
A whole bunch of gunk formed into my system (waterblocks, tubes, pump, etc.). I cleaned my system before introducing the Primo Chill Vue. I did a 24h leak test with distilled water to futher clean my system. Then I introduced the Vue in my system. Used my system for about 5 hours before I started noticing weird residu in my tubes. At the 7th hour I stopped my computer and saw that this gunk was all over my system. Now I have to tear every part appart to clean them with a toothbrush.
All parts were new. All EKWB nickel parts. None of them erroded or lost its paint in the process.
As you can see, I respected every warnings up on the product's page and still got residu to form and this all under a normal day of use.
Do you want residue? Because that's how you get residue.
Seriously this is all why I just go Noctua fans.
Primo Chill Vue sucks lmao
this is a very advanced level coolant means no aluminum at all nothing with out a nickel interior and no silver componets
@@subradiant_music Can`t say the coolant sucks, if people use crap components then blame the fluid, Primochill cant control what stuff you build a system with.
Maybe using nickle fittings w/a copper block is a bad idea in the first place? Using two different types of metal will generally cause corrosive interaction between the two metals where one leeches into the water, and it interacts w/the other metal.
"This is the first time i have used toothpaste" - Jay 2018
Mandos Aldmer that's a lie one time he used it as thermal paste.
Toothpaste is awesome. I use it to brush my teeth. Works great!
no way dude, i'll try it out. worm guts haven't been cutting it lately.
Side note, toothpaste has been used for polish in other places, too - getting rid of scratches on clear parts of models or lightly scratched CDs come to mind.
Same bro Irate 10/10
I experiment on myself with genetic mutations after I started drinking a tube of toothpaste every week and only after 6months I grew wings... Thanks Crest!
"Go all the way to the end, bottom out. Back, bottom out. Just kinda work it like that."
Jayz Sex Tips?
copper doesn't "rust" as in iron oxide, but it does ...... "crust"?? as in cupric oxide
My Brain literally went "Da Fuk did he just say?!", Cause if Copper doesn't rust, man we are spending WAY too much money to keep the Statue of Liberty green with all that non-rust paint.
oxidation by definition is "rusting".
Yeah but he was showing redish not green. Cupric oxide is that bluish green color I'm pretty sure
@@davidmiller9485 Rust is oxidation. Not all oxidation is rust. It depends on the metal.
@@davidmiller9485 That is definitely not the definition. You're connected to the Internet, you can check this shit in 5 seconds flat. Rust is iron oxide.
"Careful, Careful, woh Shit"- Jay opening anything
True though we shouldn't get ahead of ourselfs here, he's not Linus, but what i wanna know is did he actually smash it? hasn't watched the entire vid yet.
I would stick with automotive coolants that are high quality. I have been using Nulon Red for many builds and some have been in service for 3+ years with mixed metals and everything is spotless when it comes apart.
I've been running G11 car coolant premix (the blue stuff) ever since I built my Ryzen rig in 2019 (when Zen2 came out). Wasn't even expensive/high quality coolant (Mannol AG11) since I bought it in a pinch at a weekend after a screwup but it's been perfectly fine with no residue or anything, and the average temps are still rock solid. I know it kinda sounds bad but the only thing I've done as far as maintenance goes was clean the fans and blow out the rad lol
As a Chemist your best option is to have only the same metal that comes into contact with your coolant. Using Gold plate on all of the coolant systems metal surfaces. Using Teflon tape on all fittings. Auto radiator fluid is also a good addition.
You can see the green of the copper oxide from the corroding copper before you brush it with a toothbrush.
Yep, Copper rust.
sounds to me like the fluid is corrosive and has corroded the fittings which introduced metals to the fluid this made the particles in the fluid flocculate and fall out of solution, definitely the fluids fault for being corrosive.
Yeah, you could probs prove that by isolating metals from the goo.
you could burn the dirt left over if it burns white then theres nickel present
And green would scream for copper. But I would still be interested in the complete composition.
yeah but i doubt theyve got a mass spectrometer handy
Well, I would try to isolate the metals chemically, but yeah its too much effort xD
Necroposting but wanted to say toothpaste (specifically the whitening kind like Jay is using here) makes a great buffing compound for plastic and glass. I use it to put a nice buff on clear 3D prints after normal sanding before adding clear coat. Makes them super clear!
And this is the reason why i stick with Mayhems pastel blue berry!! running 3 years with the fluid, still the same color not higher temperatures off the system. I see a lot people saying that this is the reason why they don't watercool. There are a lot off people that don't have a issue with it and after all changing fluid after a while isn't such big off a deal if you plan out your loop properly.. + like i said i'm running my watercooled setup for 3 years allready with the same fluid and i don't see any reason to change it yet :)
I am MAD you cut out most of the cleaning!
Less talk more cleaning footage!
heard!
including slow motion shots with close-ups.
why not.... both? discussing important subjects can be done while you're cleaning it too.
Leave that cooling fluid for months & thats what happens
and sexy music for comic relief
Eugh. Yeah, as absolutely wonderful as pearlescent cooling fluids look; it's definitely only meant for temporary showroom use. All those particles end up clumping together after a while and causing problems. For actual long-term use you should really just use distilled water. Maybe include some biocides or corrosion inhibitors in there too.
Though it does confuse me how this system ended up having everything separate while others didn't. I would have expected this to happen to all of them.
9:13 "I'm not even kidding, this is the first time I have used tooth paste" @JayzTwoCents
Can we just stop for a second and appreciate how cool the CM cosmos looks?
One of my favorite cases, surprised it’s not talked about more
And that's why distilled water is the best coolant.
This ^
Except now you have to add biocide and possibly silver kill coil, distilled water is readily available and cheaper but pc will need more changes
Lime or just run your loop at 90C LUL no need for biocides.
oh ok, I will try that too.
Lime *loop melts*
This whole video perfectly sums up the reason why I don't do watercooling
Just don't run goofy fluids and make sure you add silver in the loop and only use one type of metal.
That's not it. Getting the loop all working and leak-free is much more work intensive than regular air cooling, not to mention it's much more expensive than air cooling. Not worth it to me for ~10°C better temps, for me the PC has to work without issues and if something fails I want to be able to swap it out quickly, which is not possible with watercooling. Think about it: swapping a GPU is a 5 minute job if you are on air cooling, but with a custom loop you have to drain the loop, disassemble it, install a waterblock on the GPU, assemble it again and fill it. With that said, I'm also not a big fan of having any liquids near vital PC components.
it really depends. I have been running my 5820k on a custom loop for almost 2 years now. Never switched coolant even once, temps are still 70c max at 4.7ghz 1.36v. Just use the right fluid and if you are not using it for the looks you don't have to think about eventual gunky looks. My soft pvc piping looks gunked up now, but the reservoar still retains the same color. So the discoloration of my piping is only related to the fact that they have been running water through them for 2 years constantly. The pump has never been shutoff, still runs even when the computer is turned off. Because of reasons. And if you use soft tubing it really does not take that long. If you want looks, it will take a bit longer. But this loop took just about over one hour to assemble.
If you use quality connections and take special care making sure you don't damage o-rings, leaks are fairly a non-issue today.
I've been water cooling for 4 years, first with flexible tubing and now hard-line- knock on wood, never had a leak.
It can be a fun experience making your own loop, I have mine set up by Pump-GPU-120mm double rad-CPU-360 rad-pump. And trust me, depending on what you run water cooling unlocks a LOT of power, my Vega-64 went from medeocre to 30% more power water cooling it.
It is the difference between consumer and enthusiast.
Maintenance sucks yeah, but if you use quality parts and no-nonsense fluid, it's just a matter of cycling distilled water then adding an additive at the end- If it gums up then you are tearing it down.
john it's not just about the difference in temperatures, with water it takes a lot longer to achieve the maximum temperature
The little goddammit at the beginning killed me. It was just like why did I do this😂
The biggest lesson Jay has taught me about open loop cooling is that it’s not for me.
It certainly isn't for everyone.
Toothpaste is also a nice chrome-cleaner ;-) to clean chrome parts on your car ...
Another thing that I've learned from people who've done jailtime (don't ask!) ..it's also great when having burnwounds, let it dry and you won't feel the pain !
I have tried the burn thing several times but hasn't worked for me, i could feel the burn but the pain would go away if i soaked the burned part with water
Toothpaste isn't recommended for burns.
It's always been to keep the area under running water for ~10 mins. Then you can apply a burn dream to minimize further pain
It's at least not as dumb as someone who told me that running water on a burn causes blisters.
haha yeah well, it's what people do in Italian jails atleast, maybe it's just because they always have toothpaste or something instead of burncreams .
running water on some burns is bad and can make it worse. It sounds dumb but it is correct...
This means you're gonna have to go back and service Terry Crew's PC?
Well, yes, he is going to have to do that. He said so in the video, 2 years I think.
However, Terry's build didn't have Vue (I don't even think Vue was an option back then). It had some more normal coolant that Jay died to look the same color as a stick of Old Spice.
OctoMan PC's, yep you'd better. He's a big man. :)
it didnt have vue fluid
#HimToo
hahahahahahh
9:14 It's also useful for removing minor scuffs on a paint job.
I really enjoy custom water cooling. People are commenting like it's a big hassle over air cooling. It's more work sure, but to me it's an enjoyable hobby. Draining and cleaning the loop once every six months is not a big deal. Also, it looks badass!
the man modeling the t-shirt has level 100 charisma :)
"man"
thats our beloved nick
yes Nick of course :)
HE NEEDS A DECENT PAIR OF SHOES THO!
Jay did Primochill ask you to send them the block for chemical analysis? I'd love to see what happened from a chemical perspective
Nigel Reeves I mean this in the kindest way possible but you're a freaking nerd :p
Issa gud nerd though.
Cl0nec0mmand0 We’re watching some guy work on a high end computer. I kinda feel like we’re all nerds.
I do not think it began as a chemical thing. My guess is the particles in Vue scrubbed chrome plating away, then reacting stated. It may also be the plating is blasted off by Vue particles and started clogging micro channels.
Pretty sure the nature of it's turbulent and fluctuating flow animation was a by product of abrasive and reactive particle in the fluid. Additional heat in the system probably speed up the process.
Thank you for linking the computer cleaner in the description. Just happen to be in the market for one and coincidentally you're using a reasonably priced one for this vid.
Contrary to the corrosion theory I suspect it might be the type of dye that caused the problem. I think pearlescent dy uses coated nanoparticles, an anti-stick coating is used which degrades through constant collision with the tube walls and the exposed metal. This abbrasive effekt might have builded up that gunk since the degraded dye particles will stick together with the metal and seperate from the water because of the increasing density of the gunk.
The corrosion might have happened after the coating of the screws were sufficiently worn out and with metal particles floating about possibly.
Some further thoughts t reinforce my theory:
- A chemical reaction should have gathered metal gunk somewhere, probably different from that that was present in this loop
-The radiator-inlet screw was clean and pretty roughed up, i suspect that the nanoparticles hit the inlet screw the hardest, beating off metal nanoparticles which are more reactive because of the increased surface area. Then gathering on the radiator-outlet.
If you read the text until here youre awesome, thanks
Copper does "rust"(oxidize). It isn't like iron though, coppers "rust" layer protects(not stops, just slows down) it from further oxidation. Gold is the metal that doesn't react with oxygen, if you use pure gold and pure copper to make playing cards held in different hands of a statue and a million years passes with the statue itself untouched by time(or thieves) there will be a gold card in one hand and green powder below the other where the copper card was. Take 100% pure gold and put it in a 100% oxygen environment and 6 months later it will be exactly the same, copper on the other hand will be green rather than copper colored because it will be oxidized. another year and the gold remains unchanged while the copper is being eaten away by the oxygen rich environment with green dust below it. 10 years and the gold is again the same and the copper is half it's size and a pile of green dust. You can also make a vacuum with copper, oxygen, and time the more the copper atoms connect to the oxygen atoms the less oxygen atoms in the enclosed pure oxygen environment, have more copper than oxygen and eventually you will have a vacuum.
Why not just use distilled water if you keep having these issues with different fluids?
It helps ... a lot but corrosion will eventually still occure unless you have near 100 percent ultra pure water ... the type you get for 60 bucks a liter
@@amineabdz ive been using distilled water in my system for like 2 years now and its still fine lol, no kill coil or anything but all my blocks and radiators are copper and the system isn't in direct sunlight. the best fluid you can ever use is distilled water and im using fairly cheap stuff.
@@user-zq4ec5xp7t What about sunlight? (i'm a watercooling noob)
amine abdz Drop some PT Nuke in there. That helps to prevent growth
@@greggreg2458 Algae could grow
This is why clear fluid to cool your watercooled rig is the best thing.
I had a contaminated loop once too, after cleaning and before putting it together again i bought a filter from aquacomputer, you can cut it from the loop with two valves so you can easily clean it. I had no problems with dirt in the cooling-blocks ever since.
Jay, I see damage from electrolysis. Same stuff happens in engine blocks, especially large diesel engines. Anyway, they make coolant additives that will stop the process. I'm assuming it's just some sort of ph adjuster but am not sure.
Legendary he actually put a link for toothpaste 😂
I've been a mechanic most of my life, and I can tell you that one of the main things that accelerates galvanic corrosion is electrolisis that occurs in the system, GM engineers found that the water pump impeller is the source as it rotates in the system. I don't know how much of that theory transfers to pc systems but it's still highly suspect to me when i see this type of occurence in water cooled systems.
5:54: Damn it, I thought that spot was from my screen.
You should get an ultrasonic cleaner.
I used to clean and polish model airplane engine components with toothpaste 40 years ago. A lot of those old model airplane building skills - like Dremel Tool uses, super glue, jigs, templates, etc... - translate well to performing custom computer mods.
Just a quick note Jay, copper does oxidise. Gets the green death (verdigris) all over it but takes a while, and mostly occurs out in the open or damp conditions, probably won't affect blocks due to the fluid additives available
Jay, whoever was holding the camera didn't do the most stellar job of stable movement or focusing on points of interest such as the buildup in the reservoir.
That's why I never use any dyes or additives other than PTnuke on my loop for over 10 years of watercooling. Even after many years, it's never needed maintenance.
enyceexdanny you've never had maintenance on your 10 year old loop?
Ahmed Yasser welp, I wonder what that loop looks like...
I just run automotive coolant. No issues, any tiny leak you can smell before it becomes an issue, designed for car engine temps.
@Wrathlon, using auto coolant interesting. Have you had any issues with bio matter growth?
Copper DOES rust (oxidize).
The green roofs of Canadian Parliament buildings are copper.
They tarnish green as they oxidize.
oh and green pennies.
Better example for americans is the statue of liberty.
Actually the initial copper oxide is a dark brown/black. Example, shiny penny turns into a dull brown penny. The copper also turns into copper carbonate or copper chloride in the right conditions, which is the green colour.
That residue looked like aluminium oxide to me. I would use regular Crest or Colgate toothpaste. The 3D White and other whitening toothpastes use hydrogen peroxide as the whitening agent. Peroxide is one of the most powerful oxidizers around and could compound the problem if it gets into the loop. Additionally, as there are a variety of different metals in the loop - nickel steel, copper, aluminium, and the like, you can have an issue where they interact through the medium of the coolant, especially if there are minerals present in the liquid. Aluminum will be very susceptible to galvanic corrosion in contact with copper, assuming that the two metals are also in contact with a common electrolyte (such as water with some ionic content.) You are likely correct that the copper plugs on the radiator are the culprits.
@JayzTwoCents You need to come up with a way to split a rad in half or open it up/unseal it to see the build up. Or next time one needs cleaning out clean the system but don't flush the rad, test the temps, then flush it like you did and retest. Final test could be replacing the rad with new stock and see just how gummed up the vital heat exchanger really is and how bad it suffers from the beautiful stuff. Love your work man, you've taught me most of what I know brother and I thank you for it, again thank you!!
copper does "rusts". copper oxide is the copper version of rust
Benni That comment is all sorts of wrong.
Benni, keep it that way. I'm in Organic Chemistry now and it physically hurts me. Chemistry can only hurt you.
The more noble a metal is, the less quickly/easily it oxidizes, and copper's more noble than e.g. iron. But apart from that: all metals have a potential to oxidize when in contact with substances containing oxygen, no matter if it's water or air or something else entirely. Even precious metals like gold can be forced to oxidize under the right conditions, however, almost anything else will attract oxygen more strongly, and thus the precious metals are more or less inert in most conditions. Copper will oxidize happily under water however, it just takes a tad longer than iron. And you can't "get the oxygen out of the water" either-it's H₂O after all, and you'll always have a certain percentage of molecules splitting into 2 H₂ + O₂, which will then react with substances in contact with them, even without actively starting that process (using electricity, etc.)
Bigsky I disagree. It would be better if he learns more, he could avoid hurting himself or at least not make comments like he did.
Jay's technically correct as only iron and other iron containing alloys rust, other metals undergo corrosion. While rust is corrosion, not all corrosion is rust
Ahaaaaa, the pc! I had a whole supportive speech ready, Jay
An electric blower was one of the best things I've ever bought. I was getting tired of buying compressed air to clean my rig.
Yeaaaa I don’t have the patience for dealing with the possible issues or maintaining caused from hard line water cooling
Ah, I'm so happy I didn't get the silver fluid I wanted! I know water cooling requires maintenance but ugh.
I love how on that merch sellout clip there wasn't a single soul on the street
I saw that last clip and thought, "Oh yeah. Weed is legal in California now. Makes sense. lol." :P
IABOUT DIED OF LAUGHTER WHEN I SAW JAY WITH THE GOGGLES ON
I thought my monitor colors were dull !
Omfg, that spec on your camera lens drove me nuts. Once I saw it at the 2 minute mark it constantly bugged me lol. Clean your lens!
I have seriously been considering doing a custom water loop sometime in the near future, but this video has seriously put me off! Thank you for saving me £500 and a massive head ache....I am forever in your debt!
That computer cleaner blower is legit! Borrowed it off a friend, need one in my life. My house is literally a fluff generator! My dust filters are always full x.x
PrimoGarbage
That nickel plating trash that EK seem to insist on using in most of their blocks can cause a lot of issues for no gain (well maybe aesthetic). I had a nickel plated GPU block which gunked up my entire loop because it reacted to a tiny silver coil! Of course at the time EK were still denying that nickel was causing issues, now they kindly inform you that you can't use a kill coil with any nickel plated blocks. Nickel is just so unpredictable, I'd say avoid putting it in your loop at all costs.
If you ever need to scrub out tight bendy places like your radiator, try using a trombone snake. It's a cleaning tool made for cleaning out the long inner tubes of a trombone.
Copper does oxidize easily, it has that teal cooler... Just use copper polish to remove it.
Huh, I didn't know CPUs could get smegma
please
LOL !!!! LOL !!!!
Smegma?
better cut half the tube off!
@@rayaan6951 google it
bought some toothpaste, thx.. was realizing im running out
Cleaning a full system with Air cooler is somewhat headache, but cleaning and refilling a Liquid cooled sytem is pain in the behind.
Btw that Air Blower cleaner is awesome as I have(had) air cooled system.
This video is a few years old now and I just wanted to point out that Vue comes with a special prep chemical that you have to run through your system for 72hrs prior to using the Vue coolant.
In addition, there is also an additive called System Reboot that is amazing at flushing out the system. Even if you flushed multiple times with water and the loop looked clear, add the Reboot to the system and after a while you will see a ton of the old Vue mixture in the water.
To me, it would be better if the tubes and res were colored instead of the fluid.
Interesting idea but I like the colored fluid
If you don't have plexi blocks that can look nice with colored soft tubeing
Fluid is definitely better as far as custom colors, but the way some of this shit clogs and solidifies, I wouldn't want to take a chance.
i'd personally use distilled water and RGB lighting effects, as it can allow you to make it any colour you want
Schyzox Music there are actually frosted acrylic tubes that you can get which help diffuse the lights even more. Probably the best setup with the current water cooling supplies.
"This is the first time I've used toothpaste"
- JayzTwoCents, 2018
Just a quick fact. Chrome plating is usually applied on top of copper so what ever will be chromed will first be plated with copper.
As a mechanic, I see this happen a lot on cars, it’s electrolysis caused by the fluid contact with different metals, hence the corrosion and deposits, I’m sure you can find an inhibitor additive to correct this, good luck...
How do you know that crud is not built up inside the radiator tubes? I mean if it was building up on the block and leaving a gritty residue that you polished off using the toothpaste - how do you clean the rad tubes?
He used a pressurized system to force crud out, but there is plenty of ways to clean the radiator tubes. There's acidic solutions you can use to basically clean out any gunk left in the tubes. Stuff like "system prep". He mentioned all this at the end of the video
Never use acid on copper much less a radiator with forein source of soder
He literally explained all that in the video.
13:52 best part
Maybe this is a dumb idea, but I was thinking maybe you should adapt the system and add a quick disconnect in-line filter. Think of it like an oil filter or fuel filter for your vehicle. Small particles of dirt and metal are collected in the filter, before the moving parts to mitigate any damage. when it gets dirty you just drain the system, change or clean out the filter, replace the filter with an easy connection and fill it back up with coolant. Easy!
That kind of nastiness in the way of buildup is the reason I stick to fan cooling. Less to put together, less maintenance and easier cleaning.
the coolant looks cool, But is it really worth all this extra maintenance? With so many different materials used by diff manufactures, I doubt they will ever get it right. looks like smegma your rig has poor hygiene lol
well, if you're someone like jay and both know what you are doing and can do it without a hasle and have the money to do this and that.
its more fun and allows for higher overclocking and stuff, if you would be in jays position why not ?
using a loop is great .primochill vue is the issue still needs some work .there should be no solids in a coolant imo
Yeah, i'd say this fluid is for a showpiece and not really a functional computer. Looks awesome, but not worth the extra hassle, especially for a computer you actually use.
for high performance systems, yes. AIO's don't have the dissipation overhead to be able to cool really, really high performance hardware.
or Coffee Lake, for that matter. basically if what you're trying to cool is very thermally dense and/or produces a LOT of heat, then an AIO will seriously struggle.
In my opinion these kind of fluids are not worth the pain. If you want it to look cool use colored tubing.
So its really just meant for showcasing a computer instead of daily driving.
Yeah. Anyone that does custom watercooling and isn't just showing off for the day, should use distilled water. That's it.
And a biocide. A lot of the concentrates that just have biocides anti-corrosives and a dye are absolutely fine as long as they are fairly ph neutrel. The issue is when you start messing with adding particles and acidity. Running straight water is a great way to grow algae unless you re-fill / clean your loop religiously.
Usually if it's distilled, a silver kill coil is enough.
I'm at 3 months on my Vue and no problems yet. To everyone that doesn't have a custom loop....just build one, don't be haters all your life. There will be blood some times, but its a very fun experience. Most of the components of your loop will carry over to new builds, so yeah its an expensive up front investment but it pays for its self in the long run. Every PC in my home is watercooled but that"s just because I have a problem :D
Baking soda & water makes great cleaner for copper, silver, etc.... Can add more/less water to make a paste or slurry (using distilled water is best though as has less impurities & DONT use spring bottle water) & is great for getting rid of tarnish, gunk, tarnish, etc..... than just rinse/wipe with clean water. That's what I use & keeps fittings, o-rings, gaskets "newer" little longer before need replacing. Just an FYI, hopes it help, & I also do a flush with a baking soda/distilled water slurry & that really helps.
Thx for vid -cheers-
I think if I ever build my own loop, I'm just gonna use vehicle antifreeze. That stuff is designed to last in engines that get a heck of alot hotter than a PC. It also come in a florescent yellow, so it will still look good.
DO NOT DO THAT. The chemicals in the anti freeze will eat the plastic tubing.
LOL please upload a video when you boot that up.
(I think you mean coolant, not antifreeze).
@@skapiche5344 Antifreeze is coolant, you moron. Gary if you go this route make sure you use just a tiny percentage of coolant, like 1 to 5%.
@@RockandrollNegro I stand corrected, no need for insults. Where I'm from the stuff we call antifreeze is used to defrost wimdows. The coolant we put in the engine we litterally just call "cooling fluid" (translated).
50 / 50 Ethylene Glycol to distilled water, same metal fittings. Running clean for 4 years now.Silicon orings and tubing, or glass tubing will be the best.
Well they are meant for aluminium engine block and rad at really high temp.
Thats what I was just imagining. It doesnt matter much what the fittings companies do if the liquid is messed up and the kind of liquid used is up to the user. Btw, your misture is nice.
Nope! You're completely incorrect. This is -WAY- too strong for computer water loops. The glycol will dissolve all of your rubber fittings over time. Besides that the less water you use, the less actual heat you are transferring with it. Nothing man made can transfer heat as well as water, you want as much water as possible and as little coolant as possible. Only add a tiny bit of glycol, like 5% to 95% water. That is, if you're using a computer in the same loop without draining it for 2+ years. If you're disassembling your water system once a year then sure go 50/50, but it damages the system.
Yeah, you are right. Water it more efficient than glycol. But 50/50 mixture drops the temp of max 5 degree c. Also rubber is not recommended. They will swell and then degrade rapidly. That's why silicon is highly recommended. With those 2 things right, you should have a worry free loop, at-least for years.
I hope you do realize that all of your computer water blocks have rubber in them. EK water blocks use rubber for seals (not silicon). All the fittings use rubber in them (not silicon), it's in your loop. 50/50 is for automotive, /NOT FOR COMPUTER USE/. It will destroy your expensive computer water system, break down the metals and cause corrosion. It's way too strong for computers.
This might be too late, but I believe the cause of the corrosion is something called galvanic corrosion. Different metals/alloys have varying electrode potentials. Pure water already contains a small amount of H+ or -OH ions, but if the coolant contains any ionic compounds then the corrosion will progress much quicker. I believe that is the issue im this loop due to the chrome plating and copper being removed.
Great video and I hope this was in any way helpful to you guys.
This problem is caused by the galvanic (electropotential) series. Different metals have different electrochemical potentials. The more noble a metal the less it is vulnerable to corrosion because ions are not as easily formed as with less noble metals. If different metals within the watercooling circle are connected by an electrically conductive medium (electrolyte), an electrical current will be established and the less noble metal corrodes. The galvanic series is also the reason why it is important to consider which metals are being used in the watercooling system. In your system Copper is the most noble metal while Nickel is the most unnoble metal. Thats why parts of the nickel plating was dissolved. A possible solution to the problem of corrosion in watercooling systems might be the use of non-conductive coolants. By the way, the galvanic series is also the reason why sacrificial anodes are used in shipbuilding. But I assume, that you guys know that. If you want to learn more about that check this link: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_series
and just saying: @6:34 Chromium compounds are in general toxic.
plating problems? you have electrolysis problems big time.
sacrificial anode/cathode(pending charge) time.
Shitty coolant. It's all garbage.
Gizmo Thewychdoktor - I agree, dissimilar metals, I know nothing about pc fluid coolant but galvanic action is a something I'd be looking at - unless there are inhibitors in the coolant, and if there are dissimilar metals in the loop with enough free electrons, then corrosion is a possible culprit.
The Vue coolant is known to do this, regardless of galvanic problems
Was hoping someone mentioned this. This is the first thought I had. He needs to go with DI water, plastic fittings and plastic plugs to minimize the amount of electrolysis he's getting.
actschp1
the problem is conductivity between the active surfaces. differential charge and the moving fluid cause the effect as well as apparently,a high acid content in regards to this particular fluid. metal fittings at turn points could be grounded or provide, with plastic turn points,a sacrificial anode pending the direction of charge amount..
(see:zinc on boats ;-). thus the coolant reference and provided link. lots of research into these problems have been posted and what the boffins have come up with is quite amazing given the scale of the problem in both automotive and industrial applications.
the computer thing is a no brainer in comparison. cause and result right there to see. green...blue....yellow(sort of)....clear and hot fluorescent pink are the colors though. oh,the sacrifices one has to make for solutions. ;->
8:40 work it in and bottom out?
..that's what she said?
or that's what he said...let's not judge, it's 2018 after all
Touché!
Hey Jay remember about dissimilar metal corrosion. I’m very familiar with this phenomena. A very thin layer of blue loc tight can reduce it. It happens a lot in marine products. Love your channel. Keep it up.
That computer is 10 times better than any computer I will ever own in my entire life.
2:40 "ooh what's that? I want one!"
2:47 *reads my mind* "...link in description below."
Thank you.
You mixed metals, the basics of batteries...
Add a offer anode or stick to one metal.
Use car coolant the long lasting, worked great for me.
Blowing the air directly into the fan can spin it so fast you can blow out the bearings. I was told that by my friend who is the manager of a BestBuy repair center. I worked 5 years as a repair man and never knew that either.
Here's the deal, a lot of metal stuff is made of "chinesium", as in you can't be certain of the quality of the base material in any way close to acceptable standards. So, when you have humidity and different metals you can have ions released, so you might not see "rust" but the surface gets eaten in the atomic level, while the ions might react to other ions and molecules(like organic polar ones) creating solids that becomes a slushy crap like that. So even if you have the best and most unreactive aqueous coolant, you still might get crap from the metals and polymers!
WANTED: NZXT Kraken X72 Review..
Called it. Had similar results with my loop. No bueno.
HomeBrewedHero Just had the same issue...Back to EK Cryo forever!
My Vue did the same. Primochill won't answer my emails.
Primochill support suck. And they added the 8hr limit after i bought my pre ordered stuff and then complained that it was my fault it started to build up after just 2 days. 😂😂
Yerp. Same here. They've changed the rules to the game midway to make it appear to be our fault when really, it was poor planning, poor testing, and poor engineering on their end. They changed the prep too from the preorders from the initial release to all subsequent releases of this product. They shouldn't do R&D with our machines as test benches. I'm inclined to agree with Jay about the black nickel causing some breakdown in the coolant as this mirrored my findings too when I dissected my loop. Feeling like I shouldn't trust Primochill's coolants anymore but ICE transparent has been great so it's a bad product and a good product. Make what you will with this information. Good luck everyone and keep those overclocks high and your temps low.
That film in the cooler is like a grit blaster.
This problem is possibly caused by galvanic corrosion. That's when you combine two different metals in an electrolyte. The metal that is most negative on the anodic index will suffer from corrosion. When you combine different metals in a cooling loop you'll run into the same problem when your coolant is acting as an electrolyte (=conductive).
Glad to see your cleaning technique at work, but a fluid designed for just EIGHT HOURS of use before it starts breaking down is worse than a bad joke. Even for a typical trade show it would need to be in there for several days. Are these guys even serious???
To the folks at Mayhems or Primochill - my system is a lot more complicated than what you see here with five blocks and five radiators connected to a single pump/res combo. I have had it running for the better part of two years now with a single fluid change in that time which consisted of a full drain and flush. I use plain distilled water with a 10/90 mix of clear additive from a manufacturer I will not mention here. This "liquid" has not left any buildup whatsoever in my blocks, yet using these "colored" variants I would have had to completely disassemble my entire system at least three times in those two years just to keep it running.
My time is valuable. My equipment needs to run 24/7 and it costs me money when it is down. So to have these manufacturers sell me a product that is substandard in performance/quality and have it shamelessly plugged religiously by is disingenuous at best and a recipe for hardware failure at worst.
My advice to guys like Jason - STOP RECOMMENDING JUNK PRODUCTS.
My advice to manufacturers - develop better fluids that last LONGER THAN EIGHT FUCKING HOURS.
My advice to users who want color - use COLORED TUBING with some RGB LED's... and stick to a clear fluid. You will have far less maintenance headaches guaranteed.
How the hell do you have five blocks and five rads in a single system?
Why won’t you mention the manufacturer
No. I want funky coolant and I will sacrifice as much practicality as needed. Deal with it.
Dude Jay it's starting to seem like the watecooling is more of a problems than its worth XD
That's because he uses all kinds of jizz paste in the liquid. Just use distilled water. That's it. Want color in the tubes? Buy colored tubes.
It’s always been. Everyone should know that a quality air cooler is adequate. They’ve just accepted the fact and do it for looks, little extra performance, or for the fun of it as a hobby.
What about GPU cooling? I know that cpus can be quiet, but from I know from experience that a GPU can be pretty damn loud at higher temps.
crazyslimdude6 Depends on the manufacturer. For example, it seems Asus’s Strix has the best noise to performance ratio in the latest generation. You’ll see less of a difference from water cooling that over than a reference or a poorly designed aftermarket cooler.
Ok, but what if you can't afford a 10 series card? I'm running an evga 980ti that had a habit of getting very loud when playing more extreme games.
I guess for this type of build-up, maybe an ultra-sonice bath would be more suitable since some toothpastes come with like silicious-particles. Those are definitely harder than plastic and may dmage your threads a little.
Rinse contamination from toothpaste ions off the metal with demin water. Heat plus contamination will accelerate corrosion also avoid dissimilar metals. Fluid should be electrochemically reducing. Fluid pH also will change with temperature making it slightly more acidic. They should have a corrosion inhibitor in the cooling fluid that forms a passive layer on the metal surface.