It can be done either way. I wasn't a fan of LDO changing them around, small things like this makes it difficult for a first time builder. Unless they provide completely redone instructions, vendors should stick to the actual build manual. IMHO
@BuildItBasement I'm doing a self-sourced one and the din rail holes don't line up with the extrusions. So I remembered seeing your videos and how you changed the direction of the rails. Now I don't have to drill more holes in the din rails that would make them weak. Thanks
I'm actually wasting a bunch of threadlocker as I write this, it is being used as a dip for an unused ABS print. Thus far (1 week) there is no noticeable derogation in the part or its strength. The part is currently drying on a corner of my bench - half coated in blue liquid and the other in blue stick. I have never had issues with threadlocker on plastics. The information I have researched seems more vested in using locker on actual plastic nuts/bolts. I do agree that chemicals can degrade the bonds in the plastics we use - however a quick google search will also lead yo u to articles and answers that nail polish also should not be used on plastics. Acetone is actually used to thin some nail polishes, so I'm not saying one is fine and the other isn't, just YMMV... Thanks for the tip, I know Nero likes to use clear polish.
Amazingly - you're the first person to ask! www.printables.com/model/57542-interlockable-sorting-cups-now-with-lids These are nice - print a few more than you think you need so you can always add to your working tray or store some away! If you need anything else let me know!
I believe the stepper motor jig tool is 3mm thick. The 3mm space below the Rails is for the stepper motor covers to fit tight against the extrusions. If you already have those printed you could also use those.
My jig tool seems a little thinner - but I'll measure it the next chance I get and give you credit in the next video. It's probably one of the least important measurements in the build. But neatness counts! 😀
Good Videos so far. I just received my kit so it was perfect timing for me!. The LDO docs wiring guide says to mount the DIN rails parallel with the bed extrusions.
Rick - Thanks! This build is 95% the same as the V2.4 non "R2", the biggest changes are in the additional parts I'm adding and the inclusion of the Stealthburner and TAP. As for the DIM rails - I'll have to check into that... It seems like a bad idea to mount those with the extrusions as it would leave the bottom plastic to completely warp. As is if you're using the standard acrylic sheet that comes with the kit you will probably need to add clips to hold the sheet from warping too much. Once you take away the additional support from the DIN rails you multiply that need - else you'll end up with an upside-down taco in a month or two of chamber temps in the 60c range. Let me see if there is any logic besides electronics placement. I'll give you a mention in the next video for mentioning this and the jig tool once I confirm!
Yup - I see that, I don't see where they suggest running the rails in the other direction? At least not here: docs.ldomotors.com/en/voron/voron2/build-faq ...
@@BuildItBasement I think it must be an alignment issue with some of the electronics? From the picture it looks like they want to get the Breakout board close to the rear of the printer.
![ARGENTINA vs. BOLIVIA [6-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 10](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/C3wPtKNbAOA/mqdefault.jpg)
I could have sworn I saw you change the din rails so they are going parallel to the extrusions. Because that was a difference with the LDO kit.
It can be done either way. I wasn't a fan of LDO changing them around, small things like this makes it difficult for a first time builder. Unless they provide completely redone instructions, vendors should stick to the actual build manual. IMHO
@BuildItBasement I'm doing a self-sourced one and the din rail holes don't line up with the extrusions. So I remembered seeing your videos and how you changed the direction of the rails. Now I don't have to drill more holes in the din rails that would make them weak. Thanks
Amazing how the little things I do in these videos can be helpful. Thanks for letting me know! Super happy I was off some help!
Clear nail polish is better for screws interfacing with ABS as blue threadlocker will degrade the plastic.
I'm actually wasting a bunch of threadlocker as I write this, it is being used as a dip for an unused ABS print. Thus far (1 week) there is no noticeable derogation in the part or its strength. The part is currently drying on a corner of my bench - half coated in blue liquid and the other in blue stick. I have never had issues with threadlocker on plastics. The information I have researched seems more vested in using locker on actual plastic nuts/bolts. I do agree that chemicals can degrade the bonds in the plastics we use - however a quick google search will also lead yo u to articles and answers that nail polish also should not be used on plastics. Acetone is actually used to thin some nail polishes, so I'm not saying one is fine and the other isn't, just YMMV... Thanks for the tip, I know Nero likes to use clear polish.
Is there a model for your interlocking hex part trays?
Amazingly - you're the first person to ask! www.printables.com/model/57542-interlockable-sorting-cups-now-with-lids
These are nice - print a few more than you think you need so you can always add to your working tray or store some away! If you need anything else let me know!
I believe the stepper motor jig tool is 3mm thick. The 3mm space below the Rails is for the stepper motor covers to fit tight against the extrusions. If you already have those printed you could also use those.
My jig tool seems a little thinner - but I'll measure it the next chance I get and give you credit in the next video. It's probably one of the least important measurements in the build. But neatness counts! 😀
@@BuildItBasement I measured mine and it's 3.2mm thick
Good Videos so far. I just received my kit so it was perfect timing for me!. The LDO docs wiring guide says to mount the DIN rails parallel with the bed extrusions.
Rick - Thanks! This build is 95% the same as the V2.4 non "R2", the biggest changes are in the additional parts I'm adding and the inclusion of the Stealthburner and TAP. As for the DIM rails - I'll have to check into that... It seems like a bad idea to mount those with the extrusions as it would leave the bottom plastic to completely warp. As is if you're using the standard acrylic sheet that comes with the kit you will probably need to add clips to hold the sheet from warping too much. Once you take away the additional support from the DIN rails you multiply that need - else you'll end up with an upside-down taco in a month or two of chamber temps in the 60c range. Let me see if there is any logic besides electronics placement. I'll give you a mention in the next video for mentioning this and the jig tool once I confirm!
@@BuildItBasement yes LDO recommends using the 4 mm clips to hold the bed.
Yup - I see that, I don't see where they suggest running the rails in the other direction? At least not here: docs.ldomotors.com/en/voron/voron2/build-faq ...
I do see it in a picture...
@@BuildItBasement I think it must be an alignment issue with some of the electronics? From the picture it looks like they want to get the Breakout board close to the rear of the printer.