The fan in the shroud should be a fantastic feature. The cone that came with the AtomStack "fiber" laser I tested rapidly filled with smoke and attenuated the laser, making it pretty much useless. I'm really curious to see if it moves enough air, but it must be better than nothing.
I had no idea fiber lasers even existed, after watching the video I thought the fiber was just a light conductor but after reading up on it a bit more they are really different from diode lasers while still being pumped by one. Really informative video though and thanks for uploading!
I don't FULLY understand it all, but that's how I interpret it. Yes, it's a diode source, but it's much different than a standard diode laser. I've used CO2, diode, and now fiber, and I can say that fiber hits different.
@@RobertCowanDIY It's essentially a Q-switched system. Basically the laser effectively has a "shutter" inside it between the laser medium and the the output mirror that keeps the stimulated emission and amplification (the "A.S.E." of "L.A.S.E.R.") from getting started until the laser medium is fully charged with energy from the pump, then "opens" and allows all that energy to be emitted in one very short, very powerful pulse, before "closing" again to charge up once more. It's not actually a physical shutter, most Q-switched lasers use a material like Cr:YAG that absorbs light until the intensity is high enough, then it saturates and becomes bleached, and allows the light to pass. There's also no reason it has to be a diode source. Flash lamps, gas lasers and even concentrated sunlight have been used, but diodes are the smallest, easiest and most efficient.
The pump laser feed into A doped tub. with the piece of fiber in the tube. it basically means they put The doping element.could be erbium, ytterbium, neodymium, thulium . The pump laser is Feeds into this doped tube . And The material changes into a higher energy state, and naturally returns to its normal state. Thus emitting a photon of light At the wavelength . The same way as CO2 laser functions inside the tube with CO2 gas in it. What makes the Fiber Laser efficient is the fact the mirror on one end becomes non-mirrored and re-mirrored so fast . The light has time to build up . Then released all it powe in one short burst . Unlike the co2 that dose not dam up it’s power .
Ironic that the poster touted its metal marking abilities but unless I missed some very short segment only showed samples of aluminum coated cards that any diode laser can also mark.
with that removable center of the base it seems like you could use the main unite on top a large sheet or with a bit of work you could mount this to any larger cnc router table and be able to set it to etch larger materials in a grid
I was thinking of making a 3d printed part that went around the green vent hood thing, so I could reliably reposition it along a larger workpiece? I haven't fully thought it out. But mounting it to a CNC could work as well.
@@RobertCowanDIY it seems like a one of those tools that will grow as you find more uses for it and i look forward to seeing what you are going to do with it
Would interesting of it did etch PCB boards. Either the copper directly with multiple passes, or coated PCB to prepare for chemical etching in small prototyping.
@@RobertCowanDIY A copper PCB layer is normally around 35µm thickness. The website says it can etch copper, so 35µ is not too thick one would think. To remove a paint mask from a solid PCB, I found in the past with CO2 / Diode lasers, that the edges are not very clean, both do to precision but also heat exposure during ablating. Now with a fibre laser with very high scan rate, that might suddenly be different.
@@SarahKchannel Yeah, I've seen it done on 20W lasers and it looks CLEAN, I just haven't personally tested it. But it absolutely should be able to. I'll make a note of that for my next video.
@@RobertCowanDIY A very wild thought, imagine if it would melt surface mount solder paste... you place the parts and have the laser run over the solder spots with components on. Would reduce heat loading of components, vs. putting them into a reflow oven.
20W of 1064nm can just about remove copper, but it will heavily carbonize the substrate, so no, it doesn't work. You need 532/355/266nm for copper. I've made plenty of high-ish density boards by cleaning regular paint off a PCB for etching though.
about the lack of grading on the tower , if only there was a machine that could make those gradings .... nope , no portable metal engraving sort of machine comes to mind ... 😀
Right?! I'm sure you could use the green hood thing to get it done. It has a minimum of 210mm focal length, so you would only need to mark there and up. I might try that.
I received my g2 20w 2 days ago and that laser did not work!! I have been working with thw company to ale it work but no luck.. they say that will get a replacement but we will see that in a day or 2 if they keep their work.. i will update my comments when they replace my laser. Update received, but it is not working. Have to send it back and wait 40 days to get a new one.
If this is an actual fiber laser, then the fiber itself is doped, and is the gain medium. There's a good video on it here: ruclips.net/video/83SKYGcSUHQ/видео.html and here ruclips.net/video/ofEqFlqkiS0/видео.html
Gweike actually just showed this laser doing 30 colors on stainless steel and titanium I'm guessing they made improvements over the early production model he got but it is slower the video i saw took a few minutes but they showed some colored test squares as well as a multi colored mask
You talked about CO2 lasers not having frequency adjustment, that's only true of DC CO2, RF CO2 in most commercial lasers also have frequency adjustment.
Got it. I guess I don't have much experience with those, and almost all of the hobby CO2 lasers out there are just DC. RF lasers for hobby use is pretty rare.
I've been trying to figure this out myself. The very few people that I have seen try it, it didn't work because the material under the copper burns and ruins the whole thing. However, none of them seemed to know what they were doing and they didn't try very hard. At the very least it seems like you could use a non-reactive PCB material so that after the copper is cut through it stops cutting (or ceramic PCB). Or maybe by very carefully tuning the laser to only cut the copper and not burn the lower layers so much. You could start with a strong cut in the copper but then as it gets close to being removed, reduce power a whole lot and make a bunch of low power passes that don't burn the lower layer so much. I don't know if this is possible though because especially epoxy resin makes a mess with even the slightest heat. I have had the most luck with simply painting/laminating the copper and cutting that with a laser then etching like normal. If you use a diode laser it won't touch the copper at all so you just do whatever you want to cut the mask. I believe a fiber laser can do this too and probably better because a tiny etch from the laser on the copper would help the actual etching phase work better.
Me: Hears Con of no markings on stand for height. Me: Hears how the hood can be used to position to engrave something that can't be put under the stand Further me: Looks at Hood, Looks at Stand. Wonders why you can't use the engraver to mark the stand using the hood.
nope. for plastics, it basically removes pigment. you COULD theoretically use it to slightly melt the surface, but it would be nearly impossible to get it right. chemical/solvent smoothing is still the way to go.
Ha, yeah. The e-stop is pretty easy to hit without it rolling backwards, but I will most likely be 3d printing my own legs/feet. It's a very strange design decision. I've also seen that it can be placed flat with the laser on top. Maybe with some elevated feet for ventilation that would work better?
@@SarahKchannel Unfortunately, it's like that sometimes. I can talk with Gweike and see if they can modify the stand. That's a great point about the rollers. Granted, it's a fiber laser, and the wavelength isn't really all that harmful (check out other videos where people put their arms/hands under it while running). For light-skinned people, it won't really do anything. BUT, it would be nice if it stayed in place and the feet are kinda crappy feeling. I'll send the feedback along and see if they can address it. For the other laser of theirs I reviewed, they did make changes based on feedback.
@@RobertCowanDIY If there was any particular use of those rollers I would give them a thumbs up, but then I can not think of anything (a bit like Apple MacPro furniture rollers). I think the cost of those rollers are spent else where with more effect ;)
@@SarahKchannel My thoughts exactly, that's why I brought it up in the video. It's an odd choice. I remember unpacking it and thinking "why the hell did they decide on this?"
Is this actually a fiber laser, or is it a diode laser that's directed through a fiber? For it to be an actual fiber laser, the gain medium has the be the doped fiber.
xTool has been trying to send me an F1 for quite awhile, but I've turned it down. It's a great product I'm sure, but I'd much rather have a true fiber laser than a diode laser. The F1 is a 10W and a 2W diode laser in one housing. Since I already have a CO2 laser, the 10W isn't really all that useful, I would only use it for the 2W, which is the same wavelength as the fiber laser (G2), so they would engrave the same materials. So for roughly the same price, you get a true 20W fiber laser versus just a 2W diode laser. From my understanding, fiber lasers have a finer laser and are more concentrated. So the difference between 20W fiber and 2W diode is significant. I think the F1 has some applications, but I'd rather have a 20W fiber instead of a 'dual purpose' machine. Just my take!
@@RobertCowanDIY Thank you! I understand. I've watched a lot of videos now and can't notice the increase in speed. I would almost say they are equally fast. I also think that the resolution of the F1 appears higher when you look at the business card photos in comparison. It may be a 20W fiber but I can't determine the added value. I am an artist and very critical and perfectionist. I also came across a website that strongly favors the G2 and disparages the F1. However, there are a lot of untruths in there and things are presented in a sugar-coated manner and other positive features of the F1 are left out. Sure it's a battle between competitors, but the truth will come out after a few tests anyway. 20W fiber versus 2W IR sounds unfair...but the results are apparently the same. Mr.Beam also only has 10W but keeps up well with 40W CO2.
@@stararts_official4369 So here's the deal with speed. Everyone's trying to claim they have the 'fastest' machine, but it comes down to power density. How much power can you put into the workpiece in a certain time period? If you move really fast, you only stay at one point for a very short period of time, so you need a bit more power to compensate. For the engraving they usually show (the metal business cards and such), it needs very little power, so they can move quite fast. But some materials might require more power, so you'd need to slow it way down. With a higher-powered laser (like 20W or higher), you don't need to slow it down, you just increase the power. I'm not sure of any other way to say it, but I just don't see a world in which 2W is better than 20W? The results are not the same. Most of the testing you see is just optimizing for the diode to compare apples to apples. If you try to deeply etch steel, the 2W diode will take FOREVER, the 20W will be much quicker and a 50-60W would be even better. It depends on the task at hand. It's always good to have as much power at your disposal. In terms of fine details, a fiber laser should always win based on how the fiber medium transmits the light. I have nothing against the F1, but at the same price point as a fiber laser, the fiber will always be a superior product.
@@RobertCowanDIY ok I understand. But I think for what im doing…the f1 is better. But im not sure. Here is a video…the results from f1 are great in my opinion. The g2 have too less power for good faserlaserexperience. He cant really cut…he cant really engrave. Yes he can, but not really good, because 20W is too less. Engrave metal is not important for me. To print motives or letters on metal is enough for me. I think 2 Lasers in 1 machine is nice to have then. I hope ill make take the right choice. Its a lot of money
Check here: www.lasereverything.net/freelasersettings. click on the "fiber laser parameter library". You can view the spreadsheet of settings and just look for the 20W settings.
Bummer, looks like it hasn't been activated yet. Here's the direct link to the kickstarter. www.kickstarter.com/projects/gweike/gweike-g2-portable-20w-handheld-fiber-laser-engraver?ref=ksr_email_user_watched_project_launched
As far ss i can tell, you must me connected via their cloud to operate. Lightburn not supported. Proprietary software. No ez cad?? Right wrong? I wouldn't use sw or hardware required to be connected to internet. Your opinions welcome. Also guard is getting complaints from pecker fiber machine. Need to.remove it to.make adjustment to.material
Good questions. I did not need to connect to the internet or have an account to use the laser. I'm not sure where you saw that, but you can just connect it to non-networked computer and use it just fine, no internet required. The software is just re-branded ez cad. It's identical and I've been following ez cad tutorials to learn the thing. In my next video, I can try using ez cad directly (not their version of it) to see if there's anything special. But all dialog boxes and settings are in the same place and it looks identical, it just says gwlaser or something at the top instead of ez cad. But I just tried it with my network disabled and had no issues. Regarding the guard, you only use that when you're taking it off the stand. With the stand, you don't need it, so that's not an issue. Hopefully that helps.
@@jppalm3944 Got it, I'll let them know. I think they have some functionality with their app, which might require it. But Gweike has generally been good about not making those things a requirement, which is why I like working with them and reviewing their products.
With just a tiny bit of research, you could have found out that there are diode laser engravers that use a galvo , but I guess it's just easier to pass along misinformation.
I absolutely realize diode lasers can use a galvo. xTool makes one. However, a diode with a galvo head isn't the same as a true fiber laser source with a galvo head. I'm not at all tying to deceive anyone, but a lot of diode laser manufacturers are trying to claim their diode lasers are in fact 'fiber lasers'. There's a difference.
@@RobertCowanDIY I don't have the original anymore, youtube must have *really* not liked something that I wrote. Not sure what though, didn't even have links...
Do not buy this machine!! Remember he is a youtubers, I'm an actual customer with the g2 20w, which doesn't work at all, I got it more than 1 month ago... and company is just making excuses to replace it..
@eithnaankhan8943 I wish I could take pics and videos or screenshots, I bought the g2 20w contact with them and paid them with PayPal and they said I will get it in a few weeks and I did but wasn't working.. long journey I already sent back few week ago..
@gustavobaeza3890 lucky guy im still waiting it may be different for uk buyers I pre orderd August still not received mine and I'm on Facebook G2 page and none of us in uk have had delivery just yesterday we got a estimate date 17 November
How so? The cheapest 20W fiber out there is around $2500-$3000 still. For their introductory price of $1500, it's by far the cheapest 20W fiber out there.
![Gweike G2 20W Fiber Laser Engraver + addons [Unbox/Review/Test] Metal engraving /alu/brass/plastick](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TAxZWqb2yn0/mqdefault.jpg)
The fan in the shroud should be a fantastic feature. The cone that came with the AtomStack "fiber" laser I tested rapidly filled with smoke and attenuated the laser, making it pretty much useless. I'm really curious to see if it moves enough air, but it must be better than nothing.
Hopefully the small fan is enough, but it would be pretty easy to add a larger fan, it gets power from a USB port in the back of the unit.
Looks good, could you try to do a full area test? how is the quality in the very max of the working envelope?
I had no idea fiber lasers even existed, after watching the video I thought the fiber was just a light conductor but after reading up on it a bit more they are really different from diode lasers while still being pumped by one. Really informative video though and thanks for uploading!
I don't FULLY understand it all, but that's how I interpret it. Yes, it's a diode source, but it's much different than a standard diode laser. I've used CO2, diode, and now fiber, and I can say that fiber hits different.
@@RobertCowanDIY It's essentially a Q-switched system. Basically the laser effectively has a "shutter" inside it between the laser medium and the the output mirror that keeps the stimulated emission and amplification (the "A.S.E." of "L.A.S.E.R.") from getting started until the laser medium is fully charged with energy from the pump, then "opens" and allows all that energy to be emitted in one very short, very powerful pulse, before "closing" again to charge up once more.
It's not actually a physical shutter, most Q-switched lasers use a material like Cr:YAG that absorbs light until the intensity is high enough, then it saturates and becomes bleached, and allows the light to pass. There's also no reason it has to be a diode source. Flash lamps, gas lasers and even concentrated sunlight have been used, but diodes are the smallest, easiest and most efficient.
The pump laser feed into A doped tub. with the piece of fiber in the tube. it basically means they put The doping element.could be erbium, ytterbium, neodymium, thulium . The pump laser is Feeds into this doped tube . And The material changes into a higher energy state, and naturally returns to its normal state. Thus emitting a photon of light At the wavelength . The same way as CO2 laser functions inside the tube with CO2 gas in it. What makes the Fiber Laser efficient is the fact the mirror on one end becomes non-mirrored and re-mirrored so fast . The light has time to build up . Then released all it powe in one short burst . Unlike the co2 that dose not dam up it’s power .
Great review and especially good production recently!
Oh, thanks! I actually thought this video was a bit sloppy. It goes to show you never know how people are going to react!
Ironic that the poster touted its metal marking abilities but unless I missed some very short segment only showed samples of aluminum coated cards that any diode laser can also mark.
with that removable center of the base it seems like you could use the main unite on top a large sheet or with a bit of work you could mount this to any larger cnc router table and be able to set it to etch larger materials in a grid
I was thinking of making a 3d printed part that went around the green vent hood thing, so I could reliably reposition it along a larger workpiece? I haven't fully thought it out. But mounting it to a CNC could work as well.
@@RobertCowanDIY it seems like a one of those tools that will grow as you find more uses for it and i look forward to seeing what you are going to do with it
They showed color on this laser yesterday on a live FB feed!
Im getting one of these as well 😊
It can use for jewelry? To engrave a little piece of gold, iron and silver, even it can use to engrave ring and inside of rings?
Would interesting of it did etch PCB boards. Either the copper directly with multiple passes, or coated PCB to prepare for chemical etching in small prototyping.
I'd have to look into that. From what I've seen, it should be possible.
@@RobertCowanDIY A copper PCB layer is normally around 35µm thickness. The website says it can etch copper, so 35µ is not too thick one would think.
To remove a paint mask from a solid PCB, I found in the past with CO2 / Diode lasers, that the edges are not very clean, both do to precision but also heat exposure during ablating.
Now with a fibre laser with very high scan rate, that might suddenly be different.
@@SarahKchannel Yeah, I've seen it done on 20W lasers and it looks CLEAN, I just haven't personally tested it. But it absolutely should be able to. I'll make a note of that for my next video.
@@RobertCowanDIY A very wild thought, imagine if it would melt surface mount solder paste... you place the parts and have the laser run over the solder spots with components on. Would reduce heat loading of components, vs. putting them into a reflow oven.
20W of 1064nm can just about remove copper, but it will heavily carbonize the substrate, so no, it doesn't work. You need 532/355/266nm for copper.
I've made plenty of high-ish density boards by cleaning regular paint off a PCB for etching though.
Very cool man... A fiber laser is on my list to get for my side hustle at some point!
Yeah, you can make a LOT of cool stuff with them, and it's fast, so it's well suited for production work.
I wonder how long it will take before someone tries to make a SLS or LPBF 3D printer with this.
Huh, interesting idea!
about the lack of grading on the tower , if only there was a machine that could make those gradings .... nope , no portable metal engraving sort of machine comes to mind ... 😀
Right?! I'm sure you could use the green hood thing to get it done. It has a minimum of 210mm focal length, so you would only need to mark there and up. I might try that.
I received my g2 20w 2 days ago and that laser did not work!! I have been working with thw company to ale it work but no luck.. they say that will get a replacement but we will see that in a day or 2 if they keep their work.. i will update my comments when they replace my laser.
Update received, but it is not working. Have to send it back and wait 40 days to get a new one.
How did you get it already? The Kickstarter campaign has not even ended yet.
@@doctorpd1959 I got my new g2 20w, plus a complementary air suction vent. I probably received my g2 20w right after the youtubers received theirs.
Can I use this one with my phone to Bluetooth conect?
You said inside the source is a diode laser as well.
Why couldn’t you use a laser diode of the correct wavelength in a “regular” gantry laser design?
If this is an actual fiber laser, then the fiber itself is doped, and is the gain medium. There's a good video on it here: ruclips.net/video/83SKYGcSUHQ/видео.html and here ruclips.net/video/ofEqFlqkiS0/видео.html
Great video!
@@dumle29 oh very interesting!
Thanks for this nice review! Is there any such small and compact fiber laser on the market with MOPA to fully control color on stainless steel?
Gweike actually just showed this laser doing 30 colors on stainless steel and titanium I'm guessing they made improvements over the early production model he got but it is slower the video i saw took a few minutes but they showed some colored test squares as well as a multi colored mask
You talked about CO2 lasers not having frequency adjustment, that's only true of DC CO2, RF CO2 in most commercial lasers also have frequency adjustment.
Got it. I guess I don't have much experience with those, and almost all of the hobby CO2 lasers out there are just DC. RF lasers for hobby use is pretty rare.
Can you do deep engraving on coins
Hi, about Alluminium 6082 not anodised, it can engrave? Thanks
Yep, real fiber lasers can engrave most metals, anodized or not.
How is it at cutting thin copper? Could you use it to etch printed circuit boards?
I've been trying to figure this out myself. The very few people that I have seen try it, it didn't work because the material under the copper burns and ruins the whole thing. However, none of them seemed to know what they were doing and they didn't try very hard. At the very least it seems like you could use a non-reactive PCB material so that after the copper is cut through it stops cutting (or ceramic PCB). Or maybe by very carefully tuning the laser to only cut the copper and not burn the lower layers so much. You could start with a strong cut in the copper but then as it gets close to being removed, reduce power a whole lot and make a bunch of low power passes that don't burn the lower layer so much. I don't know if this is possible though because especially epoxy resin makes a mess with even the slightest heat.
I have had the most luck with simply painting/laminating the copper and cutting that with a laser then etching like normal. If you use a diode laser it won't touch the copper at all so you just do whatever you want to cut the mask. I believe a fiber laser can do this too and probably better because a tiny etch from the laser on the copper would help the actual etching phase work better.
Me: Hears Con of no markings on stand for height.
Me: Hears how the hood can be used to position to engrave something that can't be put under the stand
Further me: Looks at Hood, Looks at Stand. Wonders why you can't use the engraver to mark the stand using the hood.
that is one absurd proposition !
you absolutely could ;-)
What kind of laser is used to make hologram stickers?
I have no idea, maybe google can help you out with that one.
Can you use this to smooth a 3d printed part?
nope. for plastics, it basically removes pigment. you COULD theoretically use it to slightly melt the surface, but it would be nearly impossible to get it right. chemical/solvent smoothing is still the way to go.
Roller feet and E-Stop... hmmmm... the device rolls off the table if you have to hit the e-stop ?
Ha, yeah. The e-stop is pretty easy to hit without it rolling backwards, but I will most likely be 3d printing my own legs/feet. It's a very strange design decision. I've also seen that it can be placed flat with the laser on top. Maybe with some elevated feet for ventilation that would work better?
@@RobertCowanDIY I suppose its like 3D printers, you have to mod them a bit to make them fit into your own workflow and space.
@@SarahKchannel Unfortunately, it's like that sometimes. I can talk with Gweike and see if they can modify the stand. That's a great point about the rollers. Granted, it's a fiber laser, and the wavelength isn't really all that harmful (check out other videos where people put their arms/hands under it while running). For light-skinned people, it won't really do anything. BUT, it would be nice if it stayed in place and the feet are kinda crappy feeling. I'll send the feedback along and see if they can address it. For the other laser of theirs I reviewed, they did make changes based on feedback.
@@RobertCowanDIY If there was any particular use of those rollers I would give them a thumbs up, but then I can not think of anything (a bit like Apple MacPro furniture rollers).
I think the cost of those rollers are spent else where with more effect ;)
@@SarahKchannel My thoughts exactly, that's why I brought it up in the video. It's an odd choice. I remember unpacking it and thinking "why the hell did they decide on this?"
Is this actually a fiber laser, or is it a diode laser that's directed through a fiber? For it to be an actual fiber laser, the gain medium has the be the doped fiber.
This is an actual fiber laser and uses a Raycus 20W fiber source.
@@RobertCowanDIY dope! 😊
I hope gweike give you LF3015E PRO for review
yeah same, been looking at those for my basement hobby shop😂😂
HA! That would be a fun machine to review.
same.
Please can you make a Video…Xtool F1 vs Gweike G2 ?
xTool has been trying to send me an F1 for quite awhile, but I've turned it down. It's a great product I'm sure, but I'd much rather have a true fiber laser than a diode laser. The F1 is a 10W and a 2W diode laser in one housing. Since I already have a CO2 laser, the 10W isn't really all that useful, I would only use it for the 2W, which is the same wavelength as the fiber laser (G2), so they would engrave the same materials. So for roughly the same price, you get a true 20W fiber laser versus just a 2W diode laser. From my understanding, fiber lasers have a finer laser and are more concentrated. So the difference between 20W fiber and 2W diode is significant. I think the F1 has some applications, but I'd rather have a 20W fiber instead of a 'dual purpose' machine. Just my take!
@@RobertCowanDIY Thank you!
I understand. I've watched a lot of videos now and can't notice the increase in speed. I would almost say they are equally fast. I also think that the resolution of the F1 appears higher when you look at the business card photos in comparison. It may be a 20W fiber but I can't determine the added value. I am an artist and very critical and perfectionist. I also came across a website that strongly favors the G2 and disparages the F1. However, there are a lot of untruths in there and things are presented in a sugar-coated manner and other positive features of the F1 are left out. Sure it's a battle between competitors, but the truth will come out after a few tests anyway. 20W fiber versus 2W IR sounds unfair...but the results are apparently the same. Mr.Beam also only has 10W but keeps up well with 40W CO2.
@@stararts_official4369 So here's the deal with speed. Everyone's trying to claim they have the 'fastest' machine, but it comes down to power density. How much power can you put into the workpiece in a certain time period? If you move really fast, you only stay at one point for a very short period of time, so you need a bit more power to compensate. For the engraving they usually show (the metal business cards and such), it needs very little power, so they can move quite fast. But some materials might require more power, so you'd need to slow it way down. With a higher-powered laser (like 20W or higher), you don't need to slow it down, you just increase the power. I'm not sure of any other way to say it, but I just don't see a world in which 2W is better than 20W? The results are not the same. Most of the testing you see is just optimizing for the diode to compare apples to apples. If you try to deeply etch steel, the 2W diode will take FOREVER, the 20W will be much quicker and a 50-60W would be even better. It depends on the task at hand. It's always good to have as much power at your disposal. In terms of fine details, a fiber laser should always win based on how the fiber medium transmits the light. I have nothing against the F1, but at the same price point as a fiber laser, the fiber will always be a superior product.
@@RobertCowanDIY ok I understand. But I think for what im doing…the f1 is better. But im not sure. Here is a video…the results from f1 are great in my opinion. The g2 have too less power for good faserlaserexperience. He cant really cut…he cant really engrave. Yes he can, but not really good, because 20W is too less. Engrave metal is not important for me. To print motives or letters on metal is enough for me. I think 2 Lasers in 1 machine is nice to have then.
I hope ill make take the right choice. Its a lot of money
@@RobertCowanDIY ruclips.net/video/YW39gvGO6iM/видео.htmlsi=b5XbSDWcDD7xlZB-
I just received my G2. Can you suggest a link(s) for settings for different materials?
Check here: www.lasereverything.net/freelasersettings. click on the "fiber laser parameter library". You can view the spreadsheet of settings and just look for the 20W settings.
affiliate link doesn't seem to be working for me
Bummer, looks like it hasn't been activated yet. Here's the direct link to the kickstarter. www.kickstarter.com/projects/gweike/gweike-g2-portable-20w-handheld-fiber-laser-engraver?ref=ksr_email_user_watched_project_launched
Where is the rest of drain bamage????
I'm waiting until there's a competition lined up, then I'll finish it. This laser is going to be used for finishing up the outside though.
As far ss i can tell, you must me connected via their cloud to operate.
Lightburn not supported.
Proprietary software.
No ez cad??
Right wrong?
I wouldn't use sw or hardware required to be connected to internet.
Your opinions welcome.
Also guard is getting complaints from pecker fiber machine.
Need to.remove it to.make adjustment to.material
Good questions. I did not need to connect to the internet or have an account to use the laser. I'm not sure where you saw that, but you can just connect it to non-networked computer and use it just fine, no internet required. The software is just re-branded ez cad. It's identical and I've been following ez cad tutorials to learn the thing. In my next video, I can try using ez cad directly (not their version of it) to see if there's anything special. But all dialog boxes and settings are in the same place and it looks identical, it just says gwlaser or something at the top instead of ez cad. But I just tried it with my network disabled and had no issues.
Regarding the guard, you only use that when you're taking it off the stand. With the stand, you don't need it, so that's not an issue. Hopefully that helps.
@RobertCowanDIY thanks .
They mentioned to connect to their cloud. But maybe my mistake
@@jppalm3944 Got it, I'll let them know. I think they have some functionality with their app, which might require it. But Gweike has generally been good about not making those things a requirement, which is why I like working with them and reviewing their products.
not for that price, can get a 20w for under 5,
Fiber??? Sure, diode versions all day long.
With just a tiny bit of research, you could have found out that there are diode laser engravers that use a galvo , but I guess it's just easier to pass along misinformation.
I absolutely realize diode lasers can use a galvo. xTool makes one. However, a diode with a galvo head isn't the same as a true fiber laser source with a galvo head. I'm not at all tying to deceive anyone, but a lot of diode laser manufacturers are trying to claim their diode lasers are in fact 'fiber lasers'. There's a difference.
I made a fairly extensive comment that might have ended up in spam. Or someone didn't want to see me bashing the unit :)
Huh, I don't see it.
@@RobertCowanDIY I don't have the original anymore, youtube must have *really* not liked something that I wrote. Not sure what though, didn't even have links...
@@Spirit532 huh, it wasn't me, I don't delete comments unless it's just spam or p0rn
Wait a second. It's not Sunday.
Ha, right? I tried to get them to move the kickstarter launch date, but they didn't wanna.
I always thought it was "gweeky"
When I started my 'partnership' with them, I had them say their own name and send me an audio recording of it. It's 'gee-wick', according to them.
Do not buy this machine!! Remember he is a youtubers, I'm an actual customer with the g2 20w, which doesn't work at all, I got it more than 1 month ago... and company is just making excuses to replace it..
They haven't even started shipping these not sure what g2 you used all yoitubers got sample machines g2 have only shipped from China this week !??
@eithnaankhan8943 I wish I could take pics and videos or screenshots, I bought the g2 20w contact with them and paid them with PayPal and they said I will get it in a few weeks and I did but wasn't working.. long journey I already sent back few week ago..
@eithnaankhan8943 I received my laser I would say a week after the RUclipsr got theirs...but the one I received was defective.
@gustavobaeza3890 lucky guy im still waiting it may be different for uk buyers I pre orderd August still not received mine and I'm on Facebook G2 page and none of us in uk have had delivery just yesterday we got a estimate date 17 November
Okay doing the review but in the real world they don’t honour guarantee don’t refund import duty and leave you with a faulty machine
Overpriced to be honest.
How so? The cheapest 20W fiber out there is around $2500-$3000 still. For their introductory price of $1500, it's by far the cheapest 20W fiber out there.
Compared to what?
Fiber 20 watts? Show me cheaper price
@@RobertCowanDIY You can purchase a full size split desktop version for $1400.
@@jppalm3944 I can't link them on youtube but they are everywhere.
@JustinAlexanderBell WHT can't you link them on RUclips?
Give one name, real 20 watt