I could see how it was hard to understand if you were not familiar with the way they are put together. Thanks for asking- glad it helped. mechanically they are pretty simple.
That a lot of moving parts and a lot of adjusting. So it ain’t pull out of the box plug in and let it roll 😂😂 Now at my age that’s too much configuring and adjusting 😂😂😂 but on the other hand I do own a hammer…😂 thank goodness it was already out together….. from the time I have been watching your channel I’ve learned a lot of stuff and the one guaranty thing I learned is you got this. Will be watching for some great project’s come of that rig. That’s for sharing your updates. Take care Sir.
Thanks Steve, I'm amazed how much people know about what they specialize in. You have such great knowledge of milling wood, Scott knows everything about building a house, others know how to fix cars, the list goes on. We are fortunate that we can share.
Amazing build, that thing is MASSIVE! Any plans to run it as an IDEX or hybrid corexy? This is tempting me to finish my V2.4 350 rebuild, but I have exams coming up... Great work man, best of luck with the tuning and rest of the assembly! Hope to see this pushing some plastic! :D
Thanks for watching and your comment. I did get the hybrid and have the motors and wiring installed. The build instructions state to get it running in just core-xy and then after it is aligned to add the hybrid belts. I did get a test print off today, but my nozzle was way too low and ruined the build plate. Have lots more adjusting to do.
Hello Steve, it is the BIG 500 cube model. I have a 500 cube V-core 3.1, but the V-core 4 seems to have many improvements. Not a kit for a beginner. Are you working on any new clocks?
@@woodwaker1 I am slowly working on a small version of the moon phase clock, but it looks like I should be making an extra large version for your printer. :) I have been writing an app to generate gear teeth optimized for 3D printing. All other gear generators make gears optimized for brass or plywood. Printed gears are much better if they are optimized specifically for 3D printing. I have been manually doing these optimizations in CAD and decided it could be turned into an app.
Thanks for the comment. I'm going to try the Oribter 2 filament sensor tomorrow. Using the code you published and hooking it up to the Ebb can bus on the i2c.
@@HelgeKeck It's a mess, need more room, but am planning on re-arranging it. I took your text from a post on filament sensors and made it into a configuartion file and did an include from my printer.cfg. I eliminated all of the errors and can start klipper, now I need to make a short cable from the ebb42 I2c to the orbiter and test. I may need your wise advice!
Why do they continue to use steppers, can u upgrade the servos with the right drives - would the software/hardware control them? And of all materials to use why do they always pick one of the worse ones for thermal expansion, aluminum bed smh. The stratasys 400 & 900 we have uses stainless steel (of course costs associated with commercial printers is to be expected) but glass, carbon fiber or marble/granite would be better. I do like how the bed is what moves in z much like the stratasys do.
I think you may have answered your own questions. The Rat Rig and most consumer grade printers are a compromise between function and cost. I consider the Rat Rig, Bambu and Prusa as prosumer grade printers. They are often used in commercial settings, but cost much less than "professional grade" printers. I did a quick search for the stratsys printers you mentioned and if the information I found is correct, the 400 retailed for $185,000. My Rat Rig was under $2500, for that price I have a printer with a 500mm cube build volume, vs 355 x 254 x 254 mm for the stratsys. I'm sure both have their places, but it is difficult to compare them due to the price difference. I have heard that Rat Rig is going to move into the commercial market and maybe some of the things you mentioned may be part of those printers
Thanks for showing the carbon fiber looking covers for the extruded channel and the other interlocking pieces. Makes sense to me now. 👍
I could see how it was hard to understand if you were not familiar with the way they are put together. Thanks for asking- glad it helped. mechanically they are pretty simple.
That a lot of moving parts and a lot of adjusting. So it ain’t pull out of the box plug in and let it roll 😂😂
Now at my age that’s too much configuring and adjusting 😂😂😂 but on the other hand I do own a hammer…😂 thank goodness it was already out together….. from the time I have been watching your channel I’ve learned a lot of stuff and the one guaranty thing I learned is you got this. Will be watching for some great project’s come of that rig. That’s for sharing your updates. Take care Sir.
Thanks Steve, I'm amazed how much people know about what they specialize in. You have such great knowledge of milling wood, Scott knows everything about building a house, others know how to fix cars, the list goes on. We are fortunate that we can share.
Amazing build, that thing is MASSIVE! Any plans to run it as an IDEX or hybrid corexy? This is tempting me to finish my V2.4 350 rebuild, but I have exams coming up... Great work man, best of luck with the tuning and rest of the assembly! Hope to see this pushing some plastic! :D
Thanks for watching and your comment. I did get the hybrid and have the motors and wiring installed. The build instructions state to get it running in just core-xy and then after it is aligned to add the hybrid belts. I did get a test print off today, but my nozzle was way too low and ruined the build plate. Have lots more adjusting to do.
Glad to see it's finally moving David :D
Thanks you have been a big help. Will see yours in action soon.
Awesome to see it going good sir.
Thanks Dan, It's coming along, but has been a journey
Great looking printer. Is that their big 500x500 printer?
Hello Steve, it is the BIG 500 cube model. I have a 500 cube V-core 3.1, but the V-core 4 seems to have many improvements. Not a kit for a beginner. Are you working on any new clocks?
@@woodwaker1 I am slowly working on a small version of the moon phase clock, but it looks like I should be making an extra large version for your printer. :)
I have been writing an app to generate gear teeth optimized for 3D printing. All other gear generators make gears optimized for brass or plywood. Printed gears are much better if they are optimized specifically for 3D printing. I have been manually doing these optimizations in CAD and decided it could be turned into an app.
@@stevesclocks Sounds like a great idea. I know the gears you designed for the Aracnade slicer worked much better.
great
Thanks for the comment. I'm going to try the Oribter 2 filament sensor tomorrow. Using the code you published and hooking it up to the Ebb can bus on the i2c.
@@woodwaker1 let me know how it turns out. love your workshop btw. i could live there
@@HelgeKeck It's a mess, need more room, but am planning on re-arranging it.
I took your text from a post on filament sensors and made it into a configuartion file and did an include from my printer.cfg. I eliminated all of the errors and can start klipper, now I need to make a short cable from the ebb42 I2c to the orbiter and test. I may need your wise advice!
where is the files for this build
Take a look at this video - ruclips.net/video/OQIUE_i7jwA/видео.html
the first comment lists the files, let me know if you still need something
You don't combine fractions with the metric system if you're going to do that why not just use Imperial.
I'm still trying to use metric when I can, but am old and was raised on imperial
Why do they continue to use steppers, can u upgrade the servos with the right drives - would the software/hardware control them? And of all materials to use why do they always pick one of the worse ones for thermal expansion, aluminum bed smh. The stratasys 400 & 900 we have uses stainless steel (of course costs associated with commercial printers is to be expected) but glass, carbon fiber or marble/granite would be better. I do like how the bed is what moves in z much like the stratasys do.
I think you may have answered your own questions. The Rat Rig and most consumer grade printers are a compromise between function and cost. I consider the Rat Rig, Bambu and Prusa as prosumer grade printers. They are often used in commercial settings, but cost much less than "professional grade" printers. I did a quick search for the stratsys printers you mentioned and if the information I found is correct, the 400 retailed for $185,000. My Rat Rig was under $2500, for that price I have a printer with a 500mm cube build volume, vs 355 x 254 x 254 mm for the stratsys. I'm sure both have their places, but it is difficult to compare them due to the price difference. I have heard that Rat Rig is going to move into the commercial market and maybe some of the things you mentioned may be part of those printers