AUDI 3.0 TIMING CHAIN REPLAMENT P0016 P0018
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- Опубликовано: 13 мар 2021
- In this video I show you how to replace all the timing chains in this vehicle. I also talk about tips and tricks that are left out of the service information.
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I finally got smart and started watching your vids on my TV. Not only is it easier to watch but it drives my wife away! Actually I like how you explain how you do things. You talk like you are talking directly to me. Excellent vid!
Thank you Bill I appreciate hearing that. Funny about your wife.
Great vid. I’m in the process of doing head gaskets on a 2013 Audi Q7. I was gonna wrestle with the heads with engine installed but seeing this, I believe I’m gonna pull the engine instead to tackle it. Will be coming back to watch video again👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Awesome man, I am happy to hear that. It will be alot easier with engine out for sure. hit me up if you have any questions. Or check me out on my Instagram and send me a message.
Step 1: Disassemble entire vehicle 😂😂 I've never done that particular vehicle, but I have done a VW that was almost as nightmarish. It's a ton to keep track of. Awesome video as always brother. 👍👍
Thank you brotha yes it was a nightmare. I appreciate ya watching.
Thank you for being so descriptive 🙏🙏🙏👨🔧😊
You are very welcome. Thank you for watching
Thank god you did it. Its wayyyyyyy beyond my skill set!
Glad I could help!
@@NutsandBoltswithTone word!
Great video Big Guy!! I wish I had your expertise and patience. I have an 2008 A6 with the 4.2 liter. You have to attempt this stuff yourself as the Dealer just takes too much $$$. I did coils and plugs, but broke the rear cam sensor plug 🔌. Audi got me for $375, cuz I just did not understand how easy it was to fix. I just subscribed because of how detailed and interesting your content was on this video!!
Why thank you so much I appreciate that. Yeah the Euro dealers can be very expensive. Thank you for watching.
Fantastic video, very insightful!
Thank you very much, I appreciate you watching.
Looks like a fun Sunday morning DIY project 😅
Oh yeah and then some. Lol. Thanks for watching
Great video I like how you explain everything you’re a good guy thank you for your time for that I subscribe Ty
You are very welcome, I appreciate you watching and the sub.
Awesome and informative. Great details and tips. Appreciated, liked, subscribed and happy.
Awesome, thank you very much. I appreciate you watching.
So so so glad I never had to do this on my A6 3.2 FSI. I figured that they would upgrade the timing system with the 3.0T. What a nightmare.
Yes for sure big nightmare, thank you for watching.
Just wow wow! I just had my 13 A6 severe rattle on start-up and dreaded the inevitable tensioner issue.
Oh that sucks I am sorry to hear about this. Good luck on the repair. Thanks for watching.
Congratulations on taking on this job as I just got a p0018 code and the car has a timing chain rattle on start up so I imagine they are worn out especially at 190k miles. I appreciate the tips on this as just the all data hours saying 26hrs is just intimidating although doable. Do you have a link to the timing set you bought as I plan to replace all I can as it’s no sense in trying to want to do this job twice lol. Thanks again for the tips that egr or T tube that’s under the supercharger is so easy to break . What kinda car was this in as the 2013 q5 I need to do looks to have more room on the backside
sorry it took me so long to get back to you, I have been slammed at work and everytime I thought about it I was not able to look at it.
T40070-T40133 Camshaft Clamp Set Alt
freedom racing has it. I cant recall which vehicle it was, it was the suv and there was quite a bit of room behind the heads.
Hey man, awesome video! Where are you located?
Well thank you I appreciate that. I am in Sacramento California.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone what was the issue with the engine. ? Which part of sac are u located ?
@@NutsandBoltswithTone what is your shop name in Sacramento?
@@aznspc I work at university automotive on Northrop ave.
Great video man. I'm curious what you think about doing just upper tensioners with secondary firewall removal.... If all you need are the those tensioners because of start up rattle can it be done in car? Car runs perfect just had cold start chain rattle for 2 seconds....
Sorry for the late response I have been really busy. If all that has failed is the tensioner or both then I do not see why you could not just replace the tensioners, I would imagine that it will be ok. Thank you for watching and if you have any further questions hit me up on instagram.
HI thanks for the details information. I have an Audi Q7 2015 3.0 TFSI supercharged engine, there is a rattling noise on cold startup, it lasts for about 3 seconds. After some research, i think this due to chain tensioners. Do you recommend changing them or should i learn to live with it?
Thank you for watching, I would definitely take care of the tensioner as soon as you can. Will have more damage if you let it go.
Great video, thanks for sharing, can you post a link for the aftermarket timing chain tool kit , I would really appreciate it 👍
Thank you for watching, here is the link from Freedom Racing
T40070-T40133 Camshaft Clamp Set Alt
www.freedomracing.com/t40070-t40133-camshaft-clamp-set-alt.html?___store=default&gclid=CjwKCAjwyIKJBhBPEiwAu7zll5PMYOguPRW6nwIavbaw_V1wZYDs25po-JIGQj5aLuUyq56QJ39m8RoCVwYQAvD_BwE
Smack in the middle of this job and found your vid. Good tips on timing install, thanks! I'm stuck trying to get the exhaust cam gear bolts out (intakes were easier). I have the holder tool and just can't get them to break. Any tips? I've used a breaker bar and impact guns, neither are working. The crank is locked, but I've yet to put the cam lockers on as I hear the install bolts can break. I'm worried about the crank tool breaking, but can I just torque against the chains? Or must I hold the cam gears with the holder tool? Feels like 1,000 ft/lbs... lol
What is the manufacturer and part number for your cam holder tool? The one you used instead of flimsy tool with the other kit.
I'm glad you found my video. I won't be able to tell you about the tool until Monday. I felt like the intake was harder to break free then the exhaust, the exhaust is pinned to the cam, the intake is not pinned, I honestly used a type of cam holding tool and long ratchet like at least 2 feet long
@@NutsandBoltswithTone thanks for the reply! I ended up breaking it loose just now by making my own adapters with my cam holder tool, and using a cheater bar on my breaker bar. Sometimes you gotta make the tools that work! LMK if you ever dig into a VR6... I may have some pointers for you. Keep on wrenching...
Tip for anyone doing this job: don't rely on the camshaft locks to stop the sprockets from turning. You will guaranteed break the tool to lock the camshaft --- ask me how I know. Instead, drop a 1/2" extension about 6" in length into the area where the head bolts for cylinder 3 and cylinder 6 would go. That will stop the camshaft from spinning way more effectively without breaking the tool.
I've used your video a lot on a salvaged A7 that I bought. I love the content. I'm stuck on the heat shield removal and was hoping you can answer my question on the video about the best tool to get to that 10mm bolt through the control arm access port.
Thank you very much I appreciate it. You are awesome. Can you message me on Instagram and send me a picture to refresh my memory. Thanks for the gift and for watching
Important Question: At 9:04 the heat shield removal. What tool did you use to get through the control arm hole and get that bottom 10mm bolt? I've tried every 10mm wrench and socket that I have. Did you take the springs out to have more room? I can barely get a turn in there. Please help and thank you in advance.
I have no idea how I that out, sometimes I use so many different tools to gain access and get access. Sorry I could not be of any help. Thank you for watching.
Any special tools needed to “change” just the driver side tensioner ?
Sorry meant to say change the driver side.
Thanks
Well the only thing you can do without special tools is remove the rear cover and look to see if the plastic slipper has fallen off the tensioner. And if it has them you know its a problem. But you will need special tools to time the engine and replace the tensioner.. thank you for watching.
Legend
Thank you very much and I appreciate you watching.
How did you remove the driver side heat shield next to the cat? I got the bolt from underneath the wheel arm like you said and one on top but there’s a bolt that’s right up against the cat.. is there a special wrench tool you used?
Honestly I cannot remember I did this job a few years ago. Sorry wish I could be of better help. Thanks for watching
Great job for sure that engine must come out.
Isnt the tranny together as one to the engine then remove?
Actually the repair procedure for this states to remove the transmission and perform repair from underneath the vehicle. Thank you for watching.
What would happen if the timing marks for the camshaft intake and exhaust gears are not within the range? My shop says the exhaust gear is off by about 90 degrees. Car started and ran "fine", CEL P0018 G163 is active. Is there a way to know what damage has already been done?
Unfortunately the only way two ways to see if there is any problems is one reset and fix the timing then recheck or tear down engine. If it were me I would reset the timing, probably will need tensioners. If you have any further questions hit me up on instagram. Thank you for watching
Hey. How did ther engine ran with the P0018 code ? My cousing has an audi s4 b8 wiith the same CEL. We changed camshaft sensors, solenoids, crankshaft sensor, oil, filters... And it still giving this code. Car runs fine, no rattle, nothing. Just starts a bit longer (but it does have an EVAP issue too, so that's maybe why it starts longer). Do you have any suggestiosn on what that could be ? Could be the same issue like in this video ? Worn out guides and the chain itself is streched ? Thank you very much.
If you have a P0018 code then you have a timing issue. I would inspect the camshaft timing and all the marks. Thank you for watching. If you have any further questions feel free to message me on Instagram.
Does anybody know if removing the harmonic balancer will require the engine go be re-timed? I want to change my harmonic balancer pulley and 2 belts. Thanks
That's on the other end of the motor and has nothing to do with engine time. You want more power, huh?
Where is the video with the engine back up and running? Nice job!!
I did not do one of that sorry. This video took like a month to make I had so much footage spread out. Thx for watching
Hello all, I am doing the same thing except not pulling the transmission. I found this is the only video that is real. Tone talks about the heat shields that cover the valves that have to be removed to get full access to the timing covers. CATS have to come loose to access the bolts for the shields. I happened to have pulled the supercharger off because the bearings needed replaced and of course the water pump, thermostat, PVC valve, new injector seals, Walnut carbon cleaning of the intale valves, and now stuck at one point! Tone how did you get the locking pin in the block??? The service manual says to remove the oil cooler (top 2 bolts on the oil cooler impossible top see and just can feel with fingers), then drop the bolts from the A/C compressor to get behind the motor mount where the plug is. I wonder how you did it. It looks like to me it may be easier to pull the CV from the drivers side as I had to remove the lower exhaust heat shield, then the CAT to get to get to the shield bolts. Or did you get the CAT out on the drivers side and that give you access to get to the locking pin? Please let me know, and also I purchased the same kit you have for holding the cams etc. and I have a trust issue with holding the variable cam sprocket for the intakes also as another mentioned. Are all the bolts for the sprockets right hand threads?
Hey bud, ok first I didn't pull any exhaust for upper timing chains tensioner. Ok so originally I pulled compressor to try to access the block plug but actually it doesn't help at all. The plug is behind the engine mount bracket. If you stick your left arm straight up towards the engine mount bracket and right above the bracket and very slightly to rear you will feel it. Cannot see it with mirror, well sometimes I could get visual but usually not. Easiier to just feel with your left hand. Good luck, let me know if you have any problems
My 10' s5 has duel pulley stage 2 apr tune leaking timing cover I have this code was diagnosed timing chain issue because of other code thrown is this possibly because of tune or duel pulley? Do I have to replace timing chain it seems to be running fine only problem is leaking timing cover and noise when I turn at slow speeds
I am actually unsure on whether or not you need to, having the tune makes things a little different for me, we do not mess with modified vehicles. Thanks for watching
Those used to pay good haven’t done 3.0 and I yank the motor for that job
The only reason I pulled transmission was because someone told me it was easier, I figured out it was not. Lol. Thank you for your feedback
I have 2014 sq5 with 90,000 miles, i did timing tensioner on audi dealer 2,000 miles ago, i got p0018,p052e,p310b, do I need to take it back to audi or it has nothing to do with their work ?
Well for the P0018 I would for sure take it back because that is a timin fault. One of the codes relates to low fuel pressure regulation and the other is about the pcv valve. Anytime your vehicle is at the shop and a short time later the check engine lamp comes on or any driveability issues come up should take it back to make sure it is not related. sometimes it is and will be covered. Thank you for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone I toke it back to them, the car was there for two weeks and they said they checked the job and all done right and no codes again, 10 days after the car left the dealership the code come back P0018.
they want me to bring it again and charge for diagnostic... any ideas ?
My S4 is currently in the shop with this same job. It's a 6,500 dollar job.
It is a very big job for sure. Thanks for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone I usually do my own work. But I lack the proper tools and facility to do this job so I had to farm it out. I won't touch a job unless I have both the tools and facility. A competent shop is paramount in having this work done. It's not for the average shade tree mechanic.
@@TwentytenS4B8 you are spot on there. We'll hope all goes well.
What that tells you is that any time you are having a thought of buying a q7, you should go take a look at the inline 6 x5 instead). Anyway, this would be easier if you just dropped the entire drivetrain with subframe, had to do this on my s4 to replace the engine. Oh, and look for a 335i if you want an s4, lol
Same boat with my S4. 3 weeks away from moving out of state. Don’t have the time or resources to get it done in time. Guess it’s going to have to go bye bye.
How much cost to replace Timing chain for audi a8 2011. Thank you
I have no idea, I am not a service advisor. The service advisors are the ones who look up the labor and parts.
I have a 2012 A6 3.0T. I have a little rattle noise on start up, about 1 second. 120k miles.
I checked with VCDS and had:
Camshaft adjustment inlet phase bank 1 : -46.875 °
,and bank 2 : -46.50 °
Sometimes goes between 46 to 48.
Does it seem out of spec? Or everything normal?
Sorry you are having trouble, I am currently at home out of work with a sprained ankle, had surgery a few weeks ago so I do not have access to service information at the moment. Are you getting a check engine light or any codes stored in the computer? Also where are you hearing the rattling? Usually rattle on start up for a short time is an indicator that the timing chain tensioner is starting to fail and maybe just has not failed enough to set a code but it is the tensioner it will set a code and possibly start running rough. If you need more help please message me on Instagram and I can try to help you out. Thank you for watching.
@NutsandBoltswithTone happens on start up every morning, for about 1 seconds, no check engine or codes, car runs good so far. 120k miles
@@luiszubillaga1463 I would listen under the hood and see where the take is coming from.
My thought is you have a tensioner starting to fail.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone yes I'll have to find a shop to replace the upper tensioners .
What year is the audi youre working on
I think it was an 06. it has been quite a while since I did that. Thank you for watching.
You didn't take the engine out for this? Only the transmission and worked from under?
Yes that is all I did but I am in a shop so I have a lift. If I did not have that then maybe I would have pulled motor out. Thank you for watching.
My car just started making a chugging noise from the back of the motor, no engine codes got any suggestions?
I would need a lot more information. If you message me on Instagram your vehicle info and a lot more info on the concern I can try to help you out. Thank you for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone appreciate the help, im about to drop it off at the audi dealership, thinking its belt tensioners for timing chain, luckily caught it before chain slipped
Are these engines reliable?
Yeah as long as you take care of them
once you do this how long before the next one
It will probably be ok after you replace it.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone OK
This video was very...........VERY interesting. You left me with questions that I may know the answer to (👈🏻I know it sounds really stupid).
Here it goes: On the phaser to the intake on either side of the head, you mentioned there is no PIN or KEY that physically lock the phaser to cam so then that would mean that considering you have the rotating assembly locked down properly, you would have to line up the window mark on phaser to chain link THEN seat the phaser to cam and rotate the slack in chain towards the plunger so it will pick up tension then torque down the phaser bolt. Then that would mean the exhaust sprocket has to first be installed for this procedure to take place right???? Did I get the whole procedure correct???
At first the plunger for the cam sprockets threw me off because they looked to be located on the tension side BUT INFACT i forgot the timing assembly is on backside so the rotation would be counter clockwise. Sorry my message was soo damn long but the video was too awesome and covered everything in GREAT DETAIL 😎👍🏻.
First let me say thank you for watching. See the cams are locked down with hold down tools and crank is locked, so as long as the exhaust sprocket is lined up with pin, and tension is correct then you have to make sure window is lined up for intake sprocket. Seems confusing for sure, the 3.0 eco diesel is the same way except there is no pins at all, you set all the chains on all the sprockets, and since the cams and crank are locked you release the tensioner so the tensioner has applied proper tension to chain and then torque down sprockets, this is why replacing the cam sprocket bolts is so important as if not could possibly loosen up and then would have major problems. Seems very confusing. But yes sounds like you have it correctly. The final outcome is this, exhaust sprocket pin has to be lined up and in the sprocket, intake cam in the window and all the cams and crank lined up properly and locked. 2 main problems with this job and would apply to most timing chains is whenever you have a pin on a cam, the pin has to be fully seated in the sprocket, meaning not partially. I have seen where people do not realize the pin is not fully seated in the sprocket and when tightened down, smashes the pin causing future issues, dodges, mini coopers I have seen this multiple times. On this engine the only other issue is making sure the crank is actually locked in the proper spot, in my video I said how you could have the crank pin in the wrong place and the way you can tell is the crank can move slightly. If it is locked in proper spot crank cannot move. I appreciate you watching and for your feedback. Thank you.
Got P0016 & P0018 codes on my S4. Audi quoted me $9700 to do upper and lower timing chains, tensioners, etc. Not sure what to do! I have noticed no loss of power, idles great, nothing wrong on start up. I just don't get it.
Well the most common thing to happen is the tensioners to go bad in the upper chains. You could do just the upper tensioner job with the phaser and everything in upper chains and see. I mean most likely it is just the top tensioners that failed with stretched chains up top. Even if you have to go back and still do all the chains it wont hurt to try the uppers first, if you are doing it yourself. If you are taking it to a shop then if you pay to have upper chains done and you still have a problem then you lose that labor money you spent because it has to come apart. Hit me up on Instagram if you have any more questions. Thank you for watching
@@NutsandBoltswithTone My warranty is thankfully going to cover the whole thing. It's nice watching a video of someone doing the job and knowing what the mechanics will be doing so thank you!
@@bassmasta9117 my pleasure. Im very happy your warranty is covering it. Thx for following back up with me. Good luck.
Who is your warranty through? I just spent$13k in repairs on the timing system,mounts,tstat,pcv and water pump on my 74k mile 3.0tfsi
@@NutsandBoltswithTone I have the P0018 code on my Audi Q7 which is just shy of 150k miles - Camshaft Position Correlation Bank2 Sensor A - and the car runs just fine. I do have a lot of chain tensioner rattling at startup, but again the car runs perfectly fine. However, I can't pass emissions with the code on. What are the chances its just the Cam position sensor? Also I am having a hard time finding where the sensors are - your video is the first thing I have found that shows me. Is the front one Sensor A, or is the it the rear one?
Tone I don't know if it was just me but I could not read any of the red words where they were. Just trying ti help you out brother
Thank you I'll check it out
Wow, your lucky on the A6 S6 you have room to remove the sai valves to get the covers off. On the s4 they stuffed the cats right up behind the sai valves and heat shield so you can't remove either without taking the cats off. Absolute PITA JOB. Currently I have the bank 2 off and exposed the top chain and tensioner. The very top small guide has a small end piece missing but the rest looks OK so far. My code is p0018. Im suspecting the vvt sprocket adjuster pin is worn and letting the timing move at low rpm/idle. Will be getting it off today and inspect. Also have to wrestle the bank 1 cat off to expose that side. Bank 1 look even harder.... FML.
Oh man I am sorry, that sucks. I was very lucky to not have to remove cats for my job. I would think if you have that code and it sets at idle, you have a problem in that upper chain system, tensioner failed, guide issue or something. Keep me posted and hit me up on instagram if you have any questions. Thanks for watching and good luck.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone thanks for your reply. The bank 2 Inlet cam was out 1 tooth retarded. I've replaced the tensioner, the little top guide piece and the vvt adjuster sprocket. Removed sump and retrieved a couple of little pieces of the top guide that had snapped off, I've got all them and no extra from anywhere else, so thats good news no other guides are broken fingers crossed.
Reassembled everything and it fired up perfectly. Very happy and relieved.
My cam timing is adjusting between - 48 and - 47 moving around alittle then settled mainly at - 47. So thats both banks almost identical, lambda is very close to 1. I think I've nailed it. No codes and no misfires or leaks. What a roller coaster ride.
@@LAW-fv6ys awesome thanks for the follow up
@@NutsandBoltswithTone just had my mot test, with no advisories, went for 4 wheel alignment all done. Only issue that remains is a leaking rear sports differential..... Yikes, pray for me....
@LAW-fv6ys what camshaft inlet measurements are correct? 46 , 47 or 48.. just check mine with VCDS and are between 46 to 48
How much did this job cost? Out the door?
Oh I have no idea. It was pretty expensive it was around 30 hours of labor if I remember correctly. And all audi parts
What was the milage on that car?
I believe it is a little over a 100k but honestly not sure at the moment.
Exactly the same as a 2008 Audi A6 with 3.2 engine. Once done, doesn’t seem to hard. But going into it is intimidating.
Crank pin I think you need #1 cyl. At top dead center.
If you have tools, go for it! Not real hard
Very true, it is very intimidating and seems really hard to do, the upper chains are doable in the car and is possible. You have to make sure your crank does not move at all once the crank pin is in or the crank is not timed properly. Thanks for watching I appreciate it.
Where you located shop wise?
I am in Sacramento California. Thank you for watching.
That’s crazy I stumbled across your video I just bought a 2012 Audi a six supercharge and when I start it up it sounds like the exhaust is rattling, but as it start to warm up, it goes away
It mentioned something to me about the timing chain may be scretched
Hey tone put the writing in a different color can not read it in red. Mabey wbite?...
I'll check it out, thx for watching Steven. I appreciate it
@@NutsandBoltswithTone no problem i enjoy themà
Wowww. Why did BMW put the timing on the back. Toyota puts the timing chain on the front.
Stupid design but it's audi that did it.
Can you put a link to the parts
I am sorry I do not have any links to parts, I did this job quite a awhile ago. Thank you for watching.
I have a 09 a6 3.0t ccaa I have this same problem I’m ready to jus sell the car this is way to intense
Most of the time it is just the upper chains and the tensioners. I understand the frustration. Thank you for watching.
You think it’s jus the top end
@@uluvit183 upper tensioners are usually the problem. Do the tensioner job and will probably be ok. There is still a chance could be bigger then that but most of the time is the upper tensioners
Audi quotes this as a 36 hour job. A dealership will charge you $10,000 for this service.
Wow. It was a very big job but mostly because I was unfamiliar. Thank you for watching.
How many miles this car has
I did this job quite a while ago, not quite sure over 100k for sure. Thanks for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone reason for my question is to realize when i would need to do the timing chain replacement. I dont think i would pay $10,000 for the job and i have no garage to do the job myself.
The $10,,000 i could put it into a new vehicle. Thank you for your reply.
@Desi Bravo usually what is the most common to fail is the upper tensioners. That is not gonna be as big of a repair.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone thanks
Is this a Q7?
Yes
@@NutsandBoltswithTone my 2013 Q7 totally failed on the driver side, had it checked out and was told driver side tensioner needs replacement and that should de heads valve fail compression test. Do you think I’d get anywhere just changing the tensioner as it won’t start right now?
Thanks so much
@@rizzotto139 did I read that correctly that you failed compression test and you should do heads?
@@NutsandBoltswithTone yes they said valve job on driver side, honestly I was hoping to get it running so to get something for it and pass the repair off to someone who knows and is into the 3.0 tfsi. Otherwise I feel I’ll get nothing for the truck. In know way would I not inform the potential buyer of this issue
@@rizzotto139 if it's a no start and your timing chain tensioner failed then you were told low compression then most likely is a mechanical failure and you very possibly
Silicon ?! Why not using gaskets ?
Does not require gaskets. Silicone is the proper way. Thanks for watching
In chicago the plastic stuff disintegrate lol
Plastic disintegrates here as well, but sometimes large pieces drop down.
You didnt show the most difficult part. Breaking those cam sprocket bolts loose...
Omg that was so difficult. Even with the kit and having the tool to hold it still didn't want to break loose. Thanks for watching
I’m only getting a p0018 smh
Yeah probably just one side is bad. Do you have any rattle on start up. Message me on Instagram and I can help u more. Thanks for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone I pulled the subframe down just split the motor apart don’t have instagram but will use your video as a guide haven’t done a 3.0t motor yet it’s on a 17 q7 and deaconed to drop everything didn’t want to take chances on any clearance issues
Bank 2 sensor 1 wich is driver side and also random misfire latest was on 3 4 and 5 did an oil change cleaned the vvt solenoids checked wiring ran a scope from cams to crank found deviation bank 2 that’s when on Friday and sat pulled the subframe down with motor and trans removed the trans now I’m ready lol
Omg. No way I can do this. You need a full garage and to be an expert mechanic. Looks like you had to take half the car apart. This is a $10k job easy. I’m screwed!!!
Yes it is a very big job. However the most common cause is the upper chain tensioners. You can replace those at home if you have the tool kit and some know how. You generally do not need to replace those chains just the tensioners. Thanks for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone I saw this can be done in car, but will have to remove valve covers to lock cam and hope mine doesn’t have that smog evap valve on the back with the heat shield in front of the cat. I saw theres one bolt that is inaccessible without having to drop the exhaust and get to that one bolt for the timing chain cover. Audi Jenga stacked this design perfectly (dummies). Biggest thing to replace both up tensioners will be getting the timing right and the process if components removal.
That scares me because that’s will result in a catastrophic failure if incorrect and secondly, if the cat has been removed and the bolts are seized, stripping or breaking those off the exhaust manifold will be game over. The process is very intimidating although the actual fix itself is not. Wish I had some mechanic friends. Uhhhh….
Would you replace both or just the one making the noise which seems to mostly be bank 2 drivers side? Getting to the passenger side would basically be it's own project since it requires the same process.@@NutsandBoltswithTone
Wouldn't let this guy near my cars
Ok sure, not sure why you think that but Thanks for watching