And just like that, everyone suddenly understood why I rock three router tables in my shop! 😅 Bit changes are definitely a pain, but even switching to two routers and keeping a flush trim loaded in one will save tons of time. A super cheap tool to add to your collection is to get a matching allen key for the router lift height adjust and cut the bend off and load that into a drill. Set the clutch to slip easily so you dont hurt the lift but use that to quickly raise and lower your bit. Saves tons of time. Another tip on your vinyl wrapping get yourself an adjustable heat gun and slowly heat the backside of the vinyl to make it more workable. Will help get rid of those few wrinkles. Definitely getting much better though! Really cool to see someone learning from my vids and putting together all these steps on a video of their own! Great job and thanks for rocking the CAF gap gauge 👍
This is literally a revelation to see. I had no IDEA it took that much work to get that result! The finished product is beautiful, and to my eye looks perfectly executed... ANYONE would be proud to have that enclosure in their car. FANTASTIC work! Over time, I've taken kind of the opposite approach... I have one router table (not nearly as nice as yours) and 5 or 6 larger sized routers for various tasks with larger (1/2" and up) sized bits in them for more repetitive tasks (like the one in the circle jig). Then I have about 8 or 9 "Trim" routers (all from HFT) to handle the smaller stuff, some in permanent jigs, and some loose with various commonly used bits in them. It sounds like a lot, but I've accumulated them over the years little by little... ....and I have them because I absolutely HATE changing bits out over and over again. Some of the trim routers were purchased at $29.95 and some a little more, but still, I don't have TONS of total money invested in them total. I only have one really good router. The one in my router table is a $70 HFT basic model for example... CHEAP considering the cost of a good router these days. You have some SERIOUS patience Justin! But man it did pay off, that's a FINE looking enclosure! You just took a quantum leap in quality with this project, it looks perfect!
Check out part 2 here:ruclips.net/video/uT_oAJM_n1M/видео.htmlsi=kLAE27O8-hqjRYRY Subwoofers: parts-express.sjv.io/3P1ELA Ports: parts-express.sjv.io/rndd4D
I appreciate your work. You seem to do your own thing and I never get the impression you are trying to persuade me into buying any certain product. Great job
Thank you for counting the bit changes. I have a Ryobi palm router and thought i was always doing something wrong because it seemed like I spent more time changing bits than actually routing. :)
Stu has a bunch of routers too. I have a cheap/small table top one, a standard handheld and a Bosch 12v palm router. The palm router gets the bulk of the work, the bigger handheld has the circle jig on it for a single purpose router.
Stu has a circle jig mounted to one of his table-mounted routers. Very clever. I have one that I keep in a plunge base and I am starting to realize that I need to get another lift for that one.
Another informative and enjoyable video, Justin. We appreciate you showing the mistakes, then transitioning that to becoming a tutorial to show how you made the correction to fix it. 👍🏽
Only my opinion Justin but with your large fan base, what you should do is buy a couple more “lasers” and sell DIY Audio Guy templates at a much lower cost. You’ll be killing it if you did.
I have been pretty impressed with the simplicity of Dayton Audio's lineup. Well documented equipment that makes it very nice to shop for. And not paying brand premiums is nice too. I have a Dayton neo magnet woofer project in the works now.
Nice work looks great! I've got some Dayton 10" DVC subs, I have mine in two cubes so I can have have them in different spots in the room. Supposedly having subs scattered around the room helps even the room response if they are in the right spots. Sealed to keep the box sizes small and for sound quality but I like ported and bandpass designs also.
your already getting to be a better influencer brother. just keep it up another hole year and you will take off big! to fast to slow down if you even wanted. really appreciate your content to bro.
I got the idea to add the router bit count when I was about half way though the router work. I started to wonder how many times I did it. Those were just the ones I got on camera. I probably changed it 20 times.
I want to build a good SQ system with Dayton's. What's the best 12" Dayton subwoofers and loudest while maintaining the SQ? Should i go 4ohm or 2ohm final impedance?
@DIYAudioGuy OK, I'm gonna go with 2 of these, Wired at 4 ohm final impedance. Which are the ones you recommended right lol Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 15" Reference Series HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm
@@clydesharman2053Prior to the pandemic they were a lot cheaper and every bit as good as mainstream sound quality brands. So that is when I got hooked on them. These reference drives have a shorting ring which reduces distortion. Some people don't like the sound because they associte bass with distortion.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE make sure those swappable bearings are screwed down TIGHT on your router bits every time you use them! Every Time I’ve had a catastrophic failure on my router table, it was due to a bearing failing. You can be seriously injured by a router bit that breaks or bends while in operation. TRUST ME ON THIS!
Lol I literally just typed this same message before seeing yours. It happened to me with brand new Bosch router bits. The little hex screws holding the bearing was loose and caused a huge gouge in my subwoofer cutout. Thanks for letting everyone know this because it seems to be a common problem
Justin, dude, buy more routers! I suggest at least three - a rabbet in a lift like you have, a flush trim in either a lift or buy a router with a micro depth adjustment right on it (I love my Porter Cables but they are no more so I am looking at Bosch from now on), and a roundover in a static plate since it will not have to be adjusted much or ever. I actually find that I need a 4th with a chamfer bit in it as I like to use that about as much as a roundover these days. If you don't have the surface area for that many routers, just copy the shape of your lift onto 1/4" acrylic or aluminum and you can at least lift out and drop in the mounted router you want to use. I see no economy in buying router plates when you can just template your own. And if you want a half decent router that will take 1/4 and 1/2 shank bits and is dead cheap - surprisingly, Skil makes one. It is kind of loud and the micro adjustment feels janky but it actually works pretty well.
Absolutely! I think at this point it's pretty clear that doing this kind of fabrication work with a single router is insane. The other alternative is a CNC machine. And just use the router for edge profiles, like roundovers and chamfers. My challenge, am I really the DIY audio guy if I have a triple router station or a CNC machine?
@@DIYAudioGuy I'm a DIY guy these days (got out about 5yrs ago) and I have a triple router station., so I would say yes! CNC is awesome but your time goes from doing to drawing. JMO.
Sure am glad projects like this don't require a lot of patience, time, effort, or even changing of router bits... If that was the case, I'd have to go back and rewatch a bunch of Mark's videos... 🫣
It's very important to check your bearing hex nut on the router bits because if they become loose then the bearing will move and cause a gouge in the wood. Happened to me with a brand new Bosch router bit
I know about the pain of changing router bits. About five years ago I DIYed myself a CNC router and it changed the way I build. I very seldom use router bits with ball bearings guides, circles, squares, rabbits and dowel pin holes can all be done with the same one quarter inch router bit, I just let the computer do all the math.
This is random but how would a sub cool off if the port never lets out the pocket of air? I invert my subs, and those drivers get crazy hot. I like to put the sub backwards for cooling and better tuning since the coils are heard directly
That's something that I would not worry about unless I was in an SPL competition or if I just pounded on my subs at full tilt all the time. In any case subwoofer coils have been inside of enclosures for decades with no worries.
this is why when doing this type of work for a living more than 1 router lift & a few routers are needed, too much time wasted changing bits so some bits are left permanently in some routers, also you can mess with accuracy when doing various steps changing bits out ... then gluing & neatly wrapping various materials is even more work & time
your box is fantastic but from an aesthetic pov the sharp angle on the pressure fit piece doesn't flow with the roundness of everything else, and it creates an odd exposed shape. i think it would look more pleasing to the eye if it was all round and equally spaced or had a more gradual transition around the woofers. not knocking your build bc it is an amazing box, just my 2 cents
I apricate the tip, but I am not really an "art" person so I don't understand what you mean. I will spend some time looking at some of the pics and see if I can see what you see.
@DIYAudioGuy where you stacked the templates, it created a hard transition from round to straight, it just catches the eye bc it stands out, almost like it's out of place.... where as if it was a smoother transition the lines would all flow together
at this point DIY cnc is more cheaper and simple. its very easy now to build diy cnc, all parts all widely sell, you just like buy and put all of that together. no more ruller, less changing bit, and perfect every time, especially if you build more than 1 box
That is the direction I'm leaning. I'm not sure I want to put in the work to DIY the CNC, but a CNC makes more sense than buying buying a bunch of templates and setting up multiple routers. I see two directions that I can go in. Direction one is to focus on projects for DIY, what all these templates or a CNC. Direction to is to just get the CNC and make cool stuff.
Why do none of these projects mention damping material? It seriously tightens up the bass (improved bass accuracy) without really decreasing frequency response. I've listened to both types and can't say enough good things about it.
@@DIYAudioGuy Really? Just tap on the box with your knuckle. If you generate a tone within the range of the subwoofer's expected frequency curve it will greatly influence the source signal. And let's be honest, did you do a measurement for this test? (My guess ... it will ring hollow when it should be a dead thud well above its crossover frequency.)
@@thecarman3693they’ve done a LOT of tests on this, and due to exactly what you said, it’s not that big of a deal on subs. What you said both knocking on the back and if it’s in the sub frequency you can get ringing? Well, yes, but it’s just not low enough to be in the sub frequency response usually. Think about it. Rap your knuckles--you’re not hearing between 30-80hz usually. Right? So, all the tests confirm this. Just not that big of a deal on subs. That’s why sub companies don’t Include damping in their boxes-if it helped, they would.
Why would anyone want to add a second port instead of a larger port? Everytime I add a second one in WinISD it always makes the port length unmanageable. Why not just go for a single larger port?
You are not wrong. I try to keep videos under 10 minutes, and try to keep them going fast. But I had a TON of footage this time and cutting it down was a struggle. Plus I was trying to convey the painful struggle of making all of those cuts. Thanks for watching.
And just like that, everyone suddenly understood why I rock three router tables in my shop! 😅
Bit changes are definitely a pain, but even switching to two routers and keeping a flush trim loaded in one will save tons of time. A super cheap tool to add to your collection is to get a matching allen key for the router lift height adjust and cut the bend off and load that into a drill. Set the clutch to slip easily so you dont hurt the lift but use that to quickly raise and lower your bit. Saves tons of time.
Another tip on your vinyl wrapping get yourself an adjustable heat gun and slowly heat the backside of the vinyl to make it more workable. Will help get rid of those few wrinkles. Definitely getting much better though!
Really cool to see someone learning from my vids and putting together all these steps on a video of their own! Great job and thanks for rocking the CAF gap gauge 👍
I appreciate you man! You have been inspiring me and many others for years.
This is literally a revelation to see. I had no IDEA it took that much work to get that result! The finished product is beautiful, and to my eye looks perfectly executed... ANYONE would be proud to have that enclosure in their car. FANTASTIC work!
Over time, I've taken kind of the opposite approach... I have one router table (not nearly as nice as yours) and 5 or 6 larger sized routers for various tasks with larger (1/2" and up) sized bits in them for more repetitive tasks (like the one in the circle jig).
Then I have about 8 or 9 "Trim" routers (all from HFT) to handle the smaller stuff, some in permanent jigs, and some loose with various commonly used bits in them.
It sounds like a lot, but I've accumulated them over the years little by little...
....and I have them because I absolutely HATE changing bits out over and over again. Some of the trim routers were purchased at $29.95 and some a little more, but still, I don't have TONS of total money invested in them total. I only have one really good router. The one in my router table is a $70 HFT basic model for example... CHEAP considering the cost of a good router these days.
You have some SERIOUS patience Justin! But man it did pay off, that's a FINE looking enclosure! You just took a quantum leap in quality with this project, it looks perfect!
That is one thing I wanted to convey. Making things look good takes more effort than most people realize.
I like it. Your skills are getting better and better!
Thanks! We need to get you on the live show sometime.
Check out part 2 here:ruclips.net/video/uT_oAJM_n1M/видео.htmlsi=kLAE27O8-hqjRYRY
Subwoofers: parts-express.sjv.io/3P1ELA
Ports: parts-express.sjv.io/rndd4D
I appreciate your work. You seem to do your own thing and I never get the impression you are trying to persuade me into buying any certain product. Great job
I appreciate that.
Thank you for counting the bit changes. I have a Ryobi palm router and thought i was always doing something wrong because it seemed like I spent more time changing bits than actually routing. :)
The struggle is real! I am glad I did the count, I now see a way to save time.
Stu has a bunch of routers too. I have a cheap/small table top one, a standard handheld and a Bosch 12v palm router. The palm router gets the bulk of the work, the bigger handheld has the circle jig on it for a single purpose router.
Stu has a circle jig mounted to one of his table-mounted routers. Very clever. I have one that I keep in a plunge base and I am starting to realize that I need to get another lift for that one.
Another informative and enjoyable video, Justin.
We appreciate you showing the mistakes, then transitioning that to becoming a tutorial to show how you made the correction to fix it. 👍🏽
Happy accidents.
Only my opinion Justin but with your large fan base, what you should do is buy a couple more “lasers” and sell DIY Audio Guy templates at a much lower cost. You’ll be killing it if you did.
It is funny, because in my mind I am small channel. Then I look at my numbers and see 70k real subscribers...You might be on to something.
@@DIYAudioGuy It would be a slam dunk Justin. Easy money and an easy way to build your brand bigger.
I have been pretty impressed with the simplicity of Dayton Audio's lineup. Well documented equipment that makes it very nice to shop for. And not paying brand premiums is nice too. I have a Dayton neo magnet woofer project in the works now.
I have been very happy with these subs they sound amazing.
Yeah, you've most certainly upped your game a bit. Workshop, templates, uniforms, tools and such.
Good work bro, you've come a long way.
It has been a lot of fun, and a lot of hard work.
Nice work looks great! I've got some Dayton 10" DVC subs, I have mine in two cubes so I can have have them in different spots in the room. Supposedly having subs scattered around the room helps even the room response if they are in the right spots. Sealed to keep the box sizes small and for sound quality but I like ported and bandpass designs also.
your already getting to be a better influencer brother. just keep it up another hole year and you will take off big! to fast to slow down if you even wanted. really appreciate your content to bro.
I appreciate that!
Great job!! Love the box! And I have been eyeballing those Dayton aluminum drivers for awhile
Justin just think of all the practice you got changing out those router bits 😊
I got the idea to add the router bit count when I was about half way though the router work. I started to wonder how many times I did it. Those were just the ones I got on camera. I probably changed it 20 times.
You have become the bit master lol
🤣
@@DIYAudioGuy 🤭🤭
So funny, great sense of humour... It all looks amazing though. Very well done
Thanks! That is what I was going for.
Those Dayton audio HO subs are brilliant for the money, using a 315ho in a tiny sealed box myself 🥰
They are great subwoofers!
I want to build a good SQ system with Dayton's. What's the best 12" Dayton subwoofers and loudest while maintaining the SQ? Should i go 4ohm or 2ohm final impedance?
That's a great question, we'll try to answer it on our live stream tonight. Will we over on Toids DIY Channel. 7:30 p.m. Central Time.
@@DIYAudioGuy I'll be watching 👌
@DIYAudioGuy OK, I'm gonna go with 2 of these, Wired at 4 ohm final impedance. Which are the ones you recommended right lol
Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 15" Reference Series HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm
@DIYAudioGuy Does the Subwoofer prefer to be in ported or sealed box .....
@@BramtheMan1 These subwoofers work well in either.
I got a pair Dayton audio reference 10s I have tried several others in last 2 years but keep going back to the Daytons they just sound good
I have never been disappointed with Dayton drivers.
@@clydesharman2053Prior to the pandemic they were a lot cheaper and every bit as good as mainstream sound quality brands. So that is when I got hooked on them. These reference drives have a shorting ring which reduces distortion. Some people don't like the sound because they associte bass with distortion.
OMG! I was laughing about the router bit, bit, quite a bit. 😃
Lol 🤣
Thos bit swaps had my hands hurting just watching that.
Yep.
Great video. You have the perfect videos for us the diy community. Keep up the good work. 👍👍
Thanks!
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE make sure those swappable bearings are screwed down TIGHT on your router bits every time you use them! Every Time I’ve had a catastrophic failure on my router table, it was due to a bearing failing. You can be seriously injured by a router bit that breaks or bends while in operation. TRUST ME ON THIS!
That's one of my greatest fears. I probably over tighten the darn things.
Lol I literally just typed this same message before seeing yours. It happened to me with brand new Bosch router bits. The little hex screws holding the bearing was loose and caused a huge gouge in my subwoofer cutout. Thanks for letting everyone know this because it seems to be a common problem
Good looking out, hadn’t really considered that before
That bass gonna go crazy!!!
(I was going to buy a c-sharp bookshelf speakers from parts express but shipping to Vancouver was $90USD so I gave up lol)
Ouch
@@DIYAudioGuy
real 😭😭
Justin, dude, buy more routers! I suggest at least three - a rabbet in a lift like you have, a flush trim in either a lift or buy a router with a micro depth adjustment right on it (I love my Porter Cables but they are no more so I am looking at Bosch from now on), and a roundover in a static plate since it will not have to be adjusted much or ever. I actually find that I need a 4th with a chamfer bit in it as I like to use that about as much as a roundover these days. If you don't have the surface area for that many routers, just copy the shape of your lift onto 1/4" acrylic or aluminum and you can at least lift out and drop in the mounted router you want to use. I see no economy in buying router plates when you can just template your own.
And if you want a half decent router that will take 1/4 and 1/2 shank bits and is dead cheap - surprisingly, Skil makes one. It is kind of loud and the micro adjustment feels janky but it actually works pretty well.
Absolutely! I think at this point it's pretty clear that doing this kind of fabrication work with a single router is insane. The other alternative is a CNC machine. And just use the router for edge profiles, like roundovers and chamfers.
My challenge, am I really the DIY audio guy if I have a triple router station or a CNC machine?
@@DIYAudioGuy I'm a DIY guy these days (got out about 5yrs ago) and I have a triple router station., so I would say yes! CNC is awesome but your time goes from doing to drawing. JMO.
Sure am glad projects like this don't require a lot of patience, time, effort, or even changing of router bits... If that was the case, I'd have to go back and rewatch a bunch of Mark's videos... 🫣
😎
Looks great! Nicely done
Thank you very much!
It's very important to check your bearing hex nut on the router bits because if they become loose then the bearing will move and cause a gouge in the wood. Happened to me with a brand new Bosch router bit
That sounds dangerous.
@@DIYAudioGuy definitely is lol
I know about the pain of changing router bits. About five years ago I DIYed myself a CNC router and it changed the way I build. I very seldom use router bits with ball bearings guides, circles, squares, rabbits and dowel pin holes can all be done with the same one quarter inch router bit, I just let the computer do all the math.
That's pretty cool! I don't think I am up for the challenge of DIY'ing a CNC, but I am definitely interested in getting my hands on a CNC.
Awesome job, I really like the finished look. Where can I get those templates?
❤I am very interested in doing this work and will do this work till I am on this earth
It is hard work, but for me it is still a fun and enjoyable hobby.
@@DIYAudioGuy Some people work for money but we do our work out of 💕💕💕
@@DIYAudioGuy I'm also an avid car audio fitter installation man
🤷🤦 The router bit change channel 😆✊👍
MAX POWAAAAAAR
MAXX POWAAAAAAR!
Can you build a sub Box with mdf melamine, would that affect the sound? have some scraps laying around in the garage.
Is it MDF or particle board?
I double checked it was particle board
@@DIYAudioGuy I stopped by Home Depot and grabbed a couple sheets of mdf
But I have definitely heard of Dayton Reference subs. They’re one of the most popular diy subs on the planet.
It is a shame that more people don't use them for car audio.
This is random but how would a sub cool off if the port never lets out the pocket of air? I invert my subs, and those drivers get crazy hot. I like to put the sub backwards for cooling and better tuning since the coils are heard directly
That's something that I would not worry about unless I was in an SPL competition or if I just pounded on my subs at full tilt all the time. In any case subwoofer coils have been inside of enclosures for decades with no worries.
You’re listening to the coils to tune? wtf are you takin bout?
Is it perfect for car? I'm thinking about an isobaric box 4x these speakers
Yes it's perfect for a car. That's what I designed it for.
@@DIYAudioGuy 4 ported good? Are they technically durable enough?
So.....how do they sound?
Amazing. From a sound quality perspective this is my best build ever.
this is why when doing this type of work for a living more than 1 router lift & a few routers are needed, too much time wasted changing bits so some bits are left permanently in some routers, also you can mess with accuracy when doing various steps changing bits out ... then gluing & neatly wrapping various materials is even more work & time
Absolutly. Multiple routers all set up and ready to go would make a huge difference.
your box is fantastic but from an aesthetic pov the sharp angle on the pressure fit piece doesn't flow with the roundness of everything else, and it creates an odd exposed shape. i think it would look more pleasing to the eye if it was all round and equally spaced or had a more gradual transition around the woofers. not knocking your build bc it is an amazing box, just my 2 cents
I apricate the tip, but I am not really an "art" person so I don't understand what you mean. I will spend some time looking at some of the pics and see if I can see what you see.
@DIYAudioGuy where you stacked the templates, it created a hard transition from round to straight, it just catches the eye bc it stands out, almost like it's out of place.... where as if it was a smoother transition the lines would all flow together
@@lunchboxjoeb Okay, I see what you mean.
usethe plastic templates to make other templates so you dong wear out the expensive one
👍
Good to see you my friend!
@@DIYAudioGuy Likewise. Love your channel my friend👍
at this point DIY cnc is more cheaper and simple. its very easy now to build diy cnc, all parts all widely sell, you just like buy and put all of that together. no more ruller, less changing bit, and perfect every time, especially if you build more than 1 box
That is the direction I'm leaning. I'm not sure I want to put in the work to DIY the CNC, but a CNC makes more sense than buying buying a bunch of templates and setting up multiple routers.
I see two directions that I can go in. Direction one is to focus on projects for DIY, what all these templates or a CNC. Direction to is to just get the CNC and make cool stuff.
Why do none of these projects mention damping material? It seriously tightens up the bass (improved bass accuracy) without really decreasing frequency response. I've listened to both types and can't say enough good things about it.
My opinion: It does not matter that much for subwoofers.
@@DIYAudioGuy Really?
Just tap on the box with your knuckle. If you generate a tone within the range of the subwoofer's expected frequency curve it will greatly influence the source signal. And let's be honest, did you do a measurement for this test? (My guess ... it will ring hollow when it should be a dead thud well above its crossover frequency.)
@@thecarman3693they’ve done a LOT of tests on this, and due to exactly what you said, it’s not that big of a deal on subs. What you said both knocking on the back and if it’s in the sub frequency you can get ringing? Well, yes, but it’s just not low enough to be in the sub frequency response usually. Think about it. Rap your knuckles--you’re not hearing between 30-80hz usually. Right? So, all the tests confirm this. Just not that big of a deal on subs. That’s why sub companies don’t Include damping in their boxes-if it helped, they would.
Why would anyone want to add a second port instead of a larger port? Everytime I add a second one in WinISD it always makes the port length unmanageable. Why not just go for a single larger port?
I went with a second port in this case because the flange on the 6" precision port is 8.25" I was worried about clearance behind the subwoofer.
Instructions unclear, now my cat is burning. Send help
🤣
😊😅😅😅😊😅😊😊😅
You can see why people buy CNC machines.
My thoughts exactly.
Was coming to the comments to say the same thing😂
I love your channel but this was seriously painful to watch. This whole thing could've been done much quicker.
You are not wrong. I try to keep videos under 10 minutes, and try to keep them going fast. But I had a TON of footage this time and cutting it down was a struggle. Plus I was trying to convey the painful struggle of making all of those cuts.
Thanks for watching.