I'm glad you liked our MOC 9 Airrr bearings. The owner of OUST Bearings Carl is the one that actually coined the term MOC ( machined optimum clearance ) when he first designed the bearings to handle torsional and other non typical loads. Please call us, I would like to put you video on our OUST RUclips channel and website.
I got the moc 5 skate on my street deck now. Not faster than normal but I’ve had them for 5 months and they feel like they did new. Very solid baring. Love the shields. Very strong.
nice video I see you touched for a moment on the wheel bearings spacers ,I noticed that issue right from day one and noticed them starting to get more loose from side to side expecially on my front tires yes I contacted them and they said add grease basically to fill the void of the bearing pocket that probably shrunk more then they should have in their mold process so yes I filed my middle spacers to fit more 1 to 1 and they do but its just a bandaid cuz the pocket dimension in the plastic wheels are to big and the bearings sloppy soon as you put it in .Notice the urathene wheels the bearins fit snug almost perfect and less friction aswell.My thoughts thanks for tuning in .lol
I'll have to do a video on this topic by itself. It's not nearly as critical with the AT wheels as you might think due to the overall flex of the things to begin with. The reason I felt "greasing them" was appropriate was that this minimized the deterioration of the pocket. They still moved a little but that's alright because that might be better than the alternative. The thing to remember about radial bearings and especially the moc 9 high wall high tolerance bearings is that if they are misaligned at all or if pressure is put on the sides of the bearing cases, they won't last long. I highly doubt that electric skateboard wheels will ever be engineered to the same degree as say an automotive bearing. It's just not necessary to get the kind of product life out of the boards. Keep following along and I'll let you know how the AT wheels do after say 500-1000 miles on the OUST bearings. It is unfortunate that the centers of the AT wheels can't be more accurately machined. They charge enough for them... but then you run into the issue of the spacers and bearings not really being a uniform engineering standard either. So because of the materials we are talking about for the hub, it's just not practical to go too crazy with the tight tolerances and probably better to just let them float a little and find their own resting spot in the pocket. Thanks for the reply. It's always great to see what others have experienced. It's very helpful to us all.
Oust Bearings I am dis appointed in the moc 9 they failed in my daughters board she weighs 73 pounds at 10 yrs old and in 1 year they failed i have read they are one of the best on the market maybe we got a bad set these were on the front of the board the board riding is very low abuse just road riding basically no puddles mud nor rain they are wrapped with 59mm bones rough riders and the wheels look awesome in new shape for the age yr old. maybe a bad set i would like to write oust bearings and perhaps get a replacement and give them a try again. i dont want to sell them out just yet..... great video i really enjoyed it. and your right a lot of the top riders use them too and this is why i got them.
Sorry for your experience and I hope this wasn't a catastrophic failure. One thing I will say about them is that because the races encapsulate more of the radius of the actual ball, the clearances may be tighter overall and less forgiving to debris or corrosion if the board isn't frequently used/lubricated. That's hard to say. And yes, it could also have been a bad batch. All I can say for my experience is that I've had good luck with them on the drive wheels of my board. I didn't do much riding at all in 2020 so I'll be doing a review of how the batteries held up after non use for that period. I'm actually setting up for that video now.
@@twelvewingproductions7508 ya i will have to try them down the road many people talk good about them its tough to take that a 10yr old burnt them out. but ya we will try these later i will try some other brands like the seismicskate.com/product/tekton-6-ball-xt-classic-bearings/ so this company products was use in the world record 91 mph down hill so i will try their products and see how they hold up. I will be building another skate board set up for my daughter most likely going with the FLIGHT DECK some thing that will last a long long time and feel new further down the road. any ways great video we will keep you up to date on the other bearings we did get a set of bones ceramics for the new set up and will use the tekton 6 ball for her other skate board.
@@brucetraudt1571 It's important to remember the context of the video. I have absolutely no doubt that there are faster bearings on the market. One of the points of failure that your daughter may have encountered was debris intruding into the bearing. Remember.. the very thing that make these bearings a good choice for slalom skateboards or for the drive bearings of an electric skateboard are the very things that might actually cause them to roll with slightly more resistance in other applications. The fact that the bearing race comes higher up the ball. In the case of your daughter's board, if there was debris that somehow got inside the bearing or if they became damp and were not used/lubricated for a while... any build up of rust is going to immediately start to lock them up due to the increased surface area in close proximity to the ball bearing itself. So similar to any engineered application, a downhill bearing is going to look somewhat different from a slalom bearing... or an 3-skate bearing. Best of luck with your new board!
Theres just more wear on the back wheels because majority of the time as humans we pute most of our weight into our heels thats distributed towards the back of the board the back trucks bushings are probably abit tighter while the front truck is more loose being easier to guide you around you'll probably buy new wheels but if need be you can just rotate them back left wheel to the front right and back right to front left hope this helps have fun and be safe
I'd say a combination of different factors. What you say is likely true in that I can certainly say that as I approach obstacles like expansion joints and such, I tend to shift my weight rearward to unload the front of the board a bit. I can, however, equally say that due to the large size of the wheels I do NOT do this as much as I have done with standard skateboards... even longboards. I'll also submit that the type of torque related damage I'm seeing on the rear wheels (Curved cuts) is also not indicative of the more "puncture" type wear one usually sees in a skateboard wheel. So there are most certainly other factors going on here. Now that I'm getting back to doing some videos... I may have to revisit this and see how the ol board is doing. Maybe take everyone through the inevitable upgrade process I have to go through to be actually happy with the remote. One disappointment I've had with the Evolve board I have is that what is obviously a world class board design was coupled with such a crappy and even dangerous remote.
Thanks Jaimes... I'll have to get on an update. To be honest I haven't been riding much the last couple years because my mother became ill and passed away earlier this year. Taking care of her was a full time job with little time for riding.
Super helpful... thanks... what I’m taking from it is buy a set of really high quality bearings for the back wheels and get some cheaper Abec 9 or 11’s for the front!
Don't be fooled by Oust's BS. They made up that "MOC" term and it's total fugazi, when in reality that's what bearing manufactures like SKF (global bearing maker... $85B annual revenue business, they're huge) call "deep groove radial". Oust is not the only bearing manufacture that makes deeper groove bearings. It's worth reading about bearing configurations from SKF, they have online resources for companies who buy custom bearings for specific functions and SKF goes into detail about the heat tolerances, space tolerances, etc of different materials, cage configurations, ball diameters etc. I won't say what bearings I choose or why (I will say that is not Oust) but when you read about what materials and demands your skating may impose on bearings you can then choose the right bearings for you. I've had some bearings that have lasted me 10+ years of daily skating and countless sets of wheels and lots of abuse.
@@sebastiancamarena2824 ugh, so the best pair of bearings I have ever used were the Bones 6-balls Swiss. I believe they are now called Swiss Big Balls. They are pretty expensive though. I got more than my money out of them, but I don't shell out the $ for them now. I will say, if you mostly skate smooth concrete, lower tolerance bearings will do okay. "Tolerances" are the degree of precision with ball roundness and fit within the raceway. I live in NYC and find that vibrations from rough ground, big weather shifts, and dirt have a big impact and are just abusive on bearings, so I know bearings will get a beating and dont drop $50 on bearings anymore.
You were half right. Oust created the "MOC" term... however if you would bother to watch the video all the way through, or pay close attention to what I am saying in regards to the races... you will understand what this term means, what it does and why bearings with this design are going to be: A: A little more expensive and B: Not listed in an ABEC catalog. These bearings have a rating for how much of the bearing they encapsulate. Not the dust covers or bearing retainers...but how much of the bearing is surrounded by the lower race. Obviously you can't have over half or you would have a hell of a time snapping the bearings into place and a difficult time manufacturing them... but these bearings come awful close. So close that they deal better with lateral loads. That said, I haven't seen a published paper on what actual dimensions accompany the "MOC" rating but since it's at least an internal measurement they use... it has a hell of a lot more clout than a "Skate Rating". What ever the hell that is.
This is a nice bearing review.You are very familiar with electric skateboards, have you ever tried skateboarding at a park with a regular skateboard? We skate at skateparks almost everyday and film our sessions. Check out our channel if you have any interest.
I'll have a look at your channel. As to my skateboarding, I used a longboard back in the 80's to get around but I'm too old and fat to do any skate park riding. I'll stick to the E-boards and electric bicycles. Thanks for your kind words though and I hope you keep checking in from time to time.
Give SHIVER bearings a try...they have built-in spacers and use a NASA grade lubricant. I started out with the OUST and fell in love with them..but since i use both street and AT wheels and carve like it's goin out of style, I'd end up pinching, squishing and later on warping the seal of the bearing. Tried SHIVER and was thoroughly impressed with the results. Any bearing with a built-in spacer, in my opinion, stands a better chance in an electric skateboard wheel/tire. You can find them on amazon at the moment for under $30. I guarantee you'll make a follow up video after you give them a try. Good luck and be safe out there! Carbon GT is the way to be!!!
And forgot to mention..for the AT tire...if you want more speed...upgrade to the MBS 8" T3 tire. They're unbelievably lighter then stock evolve AT tires, last just as long, and allow you to max out the top end speed without sacrificing torque. I've been running them for about 2 years, flawlessly. Best tire, hands down.
Thanks @@Justmethinaround. I'll have a look. The thing that got me looking into the Oust bearings was how far the race came around the bearing. Integrating the bushing might be helpful depending on how they did it. I'll have a look over the course of the next few hundred miles and do a bit more of a review when the weather starts to warm up again.
I have the moc 5’s. They’re not that good and over priced for what you get. My $10 Independent GP-S bearings are faster than these bearings for a reference
I'd not say these bearings were necessarily "faster" if that is what you are looking for. As I went into in the video, I view these bearings as a bit of a "special use" bearing. What makes them cost a bit more is the fact that their construction allows them to take lateral load better than other bearings. Because the channel is deeper and comes up further on the sides of the internal ball bearings, what you say is likely true since this would increase the contact surface. In the case of an electric skateboard, however, "faster" probably isn't nearly as important as longevity. ESPECIALLY when you are talking about the new cadre of electric longboards. Skateboarders aren't usually getting on the board and doing 20 miles in a day. Again, as I went over in detail in the video, the torque on the drive wheels of an electric skateboard are where I think the use case for these bearings really comes into play.
Good video overall! Just one idea: to get more people into it, make it shorter (say 5 min max), summarize your findings, show the differences in the cases you saw necessary and make a final recommendation. Maybe a small introduction (you did it! but one that encapsulates all you talk about). But to be honest, good stuff
Freddy Eduardo Alcazar Barrientos I completely agree with you there Freddy I appreciate the engineers point of view and his knowledge and wisdom. But good grief is he long-winded and I was almost going to count how many times he said " AND'UH AND'UH AND'UH" THINK THERE WAS FIVE MINUTES OF JUST THAT.... lol 🤣 not trying to be rude just stating a fact.
I'm glad you liked our MOC 9 Airrr bearings. The owner of OUST Bearings Carl is the one that actually coined the term MOC ( machined optimum clearance ) when
he first designed the bearings to handle torsional and other non typical loads. Please call us, I would like to put you video on our OUST RUclips channel and website.
Oust Bearings will they fit regular shark Wheels ?
Joshua White every skateboard bearing are the same size to fit every skateboard wheels
Does it every moc bearing have the the metal ball cage? In side them
You only have one vid on your channel. Light it up!
What MOC level should I get for street and truck skating?
I got the moc 5 skate on my street deck now. Not faster than normal but I’ve had them for 5 months and they feel like they did new. Very solid baring. Love the shields. Very strong.
nice video I see you touched for a moment on the wheel bearings spacers ,I noticed that issue right from day one and noticed them starting to get more loose from side to side expecially on my front tires yes I contacted them and they said add grease basically to fill the void of the bearing pocket that probably shrunk more then they should have in their mold process so yes I filed my middle spacers to fit more 1 to 1 and they do but its just a bandaid cuz the pocket dimension in the plastic wheels are to big and the bearings sloppy soon as you put it in .Notice the urathene wheels the bearins fit snug almost perfect and less friction aswell.My thoughts thanks for tuning in .lol
I'll have to do a video on this topic by itself. It's not nearly as critical with the AT wheels as you might think due to the overall flex of the things to begin with.
The reason I felt "greasing them" was appropriate was that this minimized the deterioration of the pocket. They still moved a little but that's alright because that might be better than the alternative.
The thing to remember about radial bearings and especially the moc 9 high wall high tolerance bearings is that if they are misaligned at all or if pressure is put on the sides of the bearing cases, they won't last long.
I highly doubt that electric skateboard wheels will ever be engineered to the same degree as say an automotive bearing. It's just not necessary to get the kind of product life out of the boards.
Keep following along and I'll let you know how the AT wheels do after say 500-1000 miles on the OUST bearings.
It is unfortunate that the centers of the AT wheels can't be more accurately machined. They charge enough for them... but then you run into the issue of the spacers and bearings not really being a uniform engineering standard either.
So because of the materials we are talking about for the hub, it's just not practical to go too crazy with the tight tolerances and probably better to just let them float a little and find their own resting spot in the pocket.
Thanks for the reply. It's always great to see what others have experienced. It's very helpful to us all.
Top notch Sir, much obliged for the insight.
Oust Bearings I am dis appointed in the moc 9 they failed in my daughters board she weighs 73 pounds at 10 yrs old and in 1 year they failed i have read they are one of the best on the market maybe we got a bad set these were on the front of the board the board riding is very low abuse just road riding basically no puddles mud nor rain they are wrapped with 59mm bones rough riders and the wheels look awesome in new shape for the age yr old. maybe a bad set i would like to write oust bearings and perhaps get a replacement and give them a try again. i dont want to sell them out just yet..... great video i really enjoyed it. and your right a lot of the top riders use them too and this is why i got them.
Sorry for your experience and I hope this wasn't a catastrophic failure.
One thing I will say about them is that because the races encapsulate more of the radius of the actual ball, the clearances may be tighter overall and less forgiving to debris or corrosion if the board isn't frequently used/lubricated.
That's hard to say.
And yes, it could also have been a bad batch.
All I can say for my experience is that I've had good luck with them on the drive wheels of my board.
I didn't do much riding at all in 2020 so I'll be doing a review of how the batteries held up after non use for that period. I'm actually setting up for that video now.
@@twelvewingproductions7508 ya i will have to try them down the road many people talk good about them its tough to take that a 10yr old burnt them out. but ya we will try these later i will try some other brands like the seismicskate.com/product/tekton-6-ball-xt-classic-bearings/ so this company products was use in the world record 91 mph down hill so i will try their products and see how they hold up. I will be building another skate board set up for my daughter most likely going with the FLIGHT DECK some thing that will last a long long time and feel new further down the road. any ways great video we will keep you up to date on the other bearings we did get a set of bones ceramics for the new set up and will use the tekton 6 ball for her other skate board.
ruclips.net/video/nlvQ90G4Gmg/видео.html
@@brucetraudt1571 It's important to remember the context of the video.
I have absolutely no doubt that there are faster bearings on the market. One of the points of failure that your daughter may have encountered was debris intruding into the bearing. Remember.. the very thing that make these bearings a good choice for slalom skateboards or for the drive bearings of an electric skateboard are the very things that might actually cause them to roll with slightly more resistance in other applications. The fact that the bearing race comes higher up the ball.
In the case of your daughter's board, if there was debris that somehow got inside the bearing or if they became damp and were not used/lubricated for a while... any build up of rust is going to immediately start to lock them up due to the increased surface area in close proximity to the ball bearing itself.
So similar to any engineered application, a downhill bearing is going to look somewhat different from a slalom bearing... or an 3-skate bearing.
Best of luck with your new board!
Did you use spacers?
Theres just more wear on the back wheels because majority of the time as humans we pute most of our weight into our heels thats distributed towards the back of the board the back trucks bushings are probably abit tighter while the front truck is more loose being easier to guide you around you'll probably buy new wheels but if need be you can just rotate them back left wheel to the front right and back right to front left hope this helps have fun and be safe
I'd say a combination of different factors. What you say is likely true in that I can certainly say that as I approach obstacles like expansion joints and such, I tend to shift my weight rearward to unload the front of the board a bit.
I can, however, equally say that due to the large size of the wheels I do NOT do this as much as I have done with standard skateboards... even longboards.
I'll also submit that the type of torque related damage I'm seeing on the rear wheels (Curved cuts) is also not indicative of the more "puncture" type wear one usually sees in a skateboard wheel. So there are most certainly other factors going on here.
Now that I'm getting back to doing some videos... I may have to revisit this and see how the ol board is doing. Maybe take everyone through the inevitable upgrade process I have to go through to be actually happy with the remote.
One disappointment I've had with the Evolve board I have is that what is obviously a world class board design was coupled with such a crappy and even dangerous remote.
Very good, will continue to watch more.
Any update on this after many months/miles of use?
Thanks Jaimes... I'll have to get on an update. To be honest I haven't been riding much the last couple years because my mother became ill and passed away earlier this year. Taking care of her was a full time job with little time for riding.
Love your videos, keep it up we need all these info, very informative
Super helpful... thanks... what I’m taking from it is buy a set of really high quality bearings for the back wheels and get some cheaper Abec 9 or 11’s for the front!
Awesome, great video.
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it. More to come this summer.
Abec 11 heck yeah.
I have that couch😱best couch ever🤙good info also 👌
Thanks.
Don't be fooled by Oust's BS. They made up that "MOC" term and it's total fugazi, when in reality that's what bearing manufactures like SKF (global bearing maker... $85B annual revenue business, they're huge) call "deep groove radial". Oust is not the only bearing manufacture that makes deeper groove bearings. It's worth reading about bearing configurations from SKF, they have online resources for companies who buy custom bearings for specific functions and SKF goes into detail about the heat tolerances, space tolerances, etc of different materials, cage configurations, ball diameters etc. I won't say what bearings I choose or why (I will say that is not Oust) but when you read about what materials and demands your skating may impose on bearings you can then choose the right bearings for you. I've had some bearings that have lasted me 10+ years of daily skating and countless sets of wheels and lots of abuse.
just say what you use bro come on now why withhold that
@@sebastiancamarena2824 ugh, so the best pair of bearings I have ever used were the Bones 6-balls Swiss. I believe they are now called Swiss Big Balls. They are pretty expensive though. I got more than my money out of them, but I don't shell out the $ for them now. I will say, if you mostly skate smooth concrete, lower tolerance bearings will do okay. "Tolerances" are the degree of precision with ball roundness and fit within the raceway. I live in NYC and find that vibrations from rough ground, big weather shifts, and dirt have a big impact and are just abusive on bearings, so I know bearings will get a beating and dont drop $50 on bearings anymore.
You were half right. Oust created the "MOC" term... however if you would bother to watch the video all the way through, or pay close attention to what I am saying in regards to the races... you will understand what this term means, what it does and why bearings with this design are going to be:
A: A little more expensive
and
B: Not listed in an ABEC catalog.
These bearings have a rating for how much of the bearing they encapsulate. Not the dust covers or bearing retainers...but how much of the bearing is surrounded by the lower race.
Obviously you can't have over half or you would have a hell of a time snapping the bearings into place and a difficult time manufacturing them... but these bearings come awful close.
So close that they deal better with lateral loads.
That said, I haven't seen a published paper on what actual dimensions accompany the "MOC" rating but since it's at least an internal measurement they use... it has a hell of a lot more clout than a "Skate Rating". What ever the hell that is.
This is a nice bearing review.You are very familiar with electric skateboards, have you ever tried skateboarding at a park with a regular skateboard? We skate at skateparks almost everyday and film our sessions. Check out our channel if you have any interest.
I'll have a look at your channel. As to my skateboarding, I used a longboard back in the 80's to get around but I'm too old and fat to do any skate park riding. I'll stick to the E-boards and electric bicycles.
Thanks for your kind words though and I hope you keep checking in from time to time.
Give SHIVER bearings a try...they have built-in spacers and use a NASA grade lubricant. I started out with the OUST and fell in love with them..but since i use both street and AT wheels and carve like it's goin out of style, I'd end up pinching, squishing and later on warping the seal of the bearing. Tried SHIVER and was thoroughly impressed with the results. Any bearing with a built-in spacer, in my opinion, stands a better chance in an electric skateboard wheel/tire. You can find them on amazon at the moment for under $30. I guarantee you'll make a follow up video after you give them a try. Good luck and be safe out there! Carbon GT is the way to be!!!
And forgot to mention..for the AT tire...if you want more speed...upgrade to the MBS 8" T3 tire. They're unbelievably lighter then stock evolve AT tires, last just as long, and allow you to max out the top end speed without sacrificing torque. I've been running them for about 2 years, flawlessly. Best tire, hands down.
Thanks @@Justmethinaround. I'll have a look.
The thing that got me looking into the Oust bearings was how far the race came around the bearing. Integrating the bushing might be helpful depending on how they did it. I'll have a look over the course of the next few hundred miles and do a bit more of a review when the weather starts to warm up again.
I have the moc 5’s. They’re not that good and over priced for what you get. My $10 Independent GP-S bearings are faster than these bearings for a reference
I'd not say these bearings were necessarily "faster" if that is what you are looking for.
As I went into in the video, I view these bearings as a bit of a "special use" bearing. What makes them cost a bit more is the fact that their construction allows them to take lateral load better than other bearings. Because the channel is deeper and comes up further on the sides of the internal ball bearings, what you say is likely true since this would increase the contact surface.
In the case of an electric skateboard, however, "faster" probably isn't nearly as important as longevity. ESPECIALLY when you are talking about the new cadre of electric longboards. Skateboarders aren't usually getting on the board and doing 20 miles in a day.
Again, as I went over in detail in the video, the torque on the drive wheels of an electric skateboard are where I think the use case for these bearings really comes into play.
Good video overall! Just one idea: to get more people into it, make it shorter (say 5 min max), summarize your findings, show the differences in the cases you saw necessary and make a final recommendation. Maybe a small introduction (you did it! but one that encapsulates all you talk about). But to be honest, good stuff
Yep, I felt asleep already!!
Freddy Eduardo Alcazar Barrientos I completely agree with you there Freddy I appreciate the engineers point of view and his knowledge and wisdom. But good grief is he long-winded and I was almost going to count how many times he said " AND'UH AND'UH AND'UH" THINK THERE WAS FIVE MINUTES OF JUST THAT.... lol 🤣 not trying to be rude just stating a fact.