I also recently aquired an 89 extended cab with a dually rear... Wasn't planning on keeping it, but probably will... It'll be the third Ford diesel I've had... Always seem to end up with a Blue Oval...
Best Vid and awesome detailed description I have seen yet! I've been a mechanic for many years can tell you "Really" know what you are talking about. I have yet to follow anyone in 8 years of net and guess what"You have made my list! My only suggestion is to talk a little more clear. It was hard to understand what you were saying about the red paint, although i do know what it is for (Anti tamper warranty paint) Don't ever change bud.
Thumbs up for you on this video. You are thorough, proceed in a good order, and explain specifically as you go along. As one of the guys said in comments below, some your words aren't so clear. But I watched it twice, and putting everything into context I figured out what you are saying. This video is right up there in the top 2 or 3 on this subject. I've looked at probably 40 or 50 RUclips videos trying to learn how to do this for the first time on my 1986 International.
Bet that was a pretty penny. Got a 93 7.3 idi took one of the injection lines off and crank engine getting like drips and few bubbles. Fuel and vac pump is good
This is a great video and I just subscribed to your page. I have an E350 with the same engine, I have a question regarding the injection pump. On the back of my pump at the torque bolt it seems like its been either broken off or it may be a spot for a sensor plug in. Could you give me some input on the torque screw and why it may be broken or was there a DB2 pump offered with a sensor in that same spot ? My 7.3 idi is not currently running and im wondering if that broken screw or missing sensor part is causing the pump to take in air and mess up the flow of fuel. Should i just get a new/reman pump ? Thanks
Thank you for subscribing. The torque screw itself is just a screw all it does is limit fuel at low rpm. At high rpm fuel is limited by an internal leaf spring. Turing the screw out will give more fuel. There are no sensors on the pump except if you have the E40D auto gearbox there will be a throttle position sensor on the side on the pump for the gearbox. If the screw has been turned/missing it will cause fueling problems. Also it might be getting air in the system if the screw is loose or missing this will also cause running problems. You could get a new screw and try adjusting it, might fix the problem. But if the pump has over 150k miles I would consider a new/rebuilt pump as it is starting to get worn out. Hope this helps.
Thank you for answering ! My E350 has 90k miles and is currently dumping white smoke but it's def unburnt fuel so I ordered a set of injectors to swap out. I am considering just doing the pump while I'm doing the injectors anyway. The truck sat for roughly 8 years so im wondering if my problem isn't actually the pump and not the injectors ? What's your take on it ? @@7.3ididiesel36
Did you get all of the old fuel out? If it has been sitting for 8 years then the diesel will have degraded and it also could have water contamination there for it will not burn right causing smoke. If it runs ok and just smokes put fresh fuel in it with some good injector cleaner like Diesel Kleen and drive it some to see if the smoke goes away. If you replace just the injectors there is a chance that the old pump will be too weak pop the new injectors properly. @@daltonshaw3317
@@7.3ididiesel36 Yes I dumped all the old fuel before I got it running and put in fresh diesel along with additive and changed all the filters with a mix of fresh fuel and ATF to help with all components. I have decided to replace the pump along with the injectors. When I pull the pump out can I just put the new (Reman) pump right back in the same way the old one came out and then hook everything back up ? Do I need to set the timing gear top center or anything specific or can it simply be replaced the way it sits when I remove the old pump ? TIA !
My thought is that if I remove the old pump and make sure that nothing moves as it sits, then I can just fit the new pump into the same position as the old pump. Is this correct ?
Good job man ! Best video I seen in the bunch ! You did not have to use any gasket sealant where the pump meets ? No thread lock on the front bolts ? Thanks for the good work !
I’ve got a truck with a hypermax turbo and you don’t need head studs. If you want to do it because it makes you feel better go for it. But you can’t put the heads on the engine when the engine is in the truck with head studs. But anyway great video.
Nice video. I bought a 1990 F350 crew cab. 7.3 IDI. It was starting fine ,after a couple days it just wouldn't start. I pulled the fuel filter and it smelled like bad old fuel. Old diesel smells just like old gas. so I dropped the tank sucked the fuel out , It was orange, the tank was so rusted it turned the fuel orange. Turns out this truck had been setting for 20 years. So I did as much as I could to get the lines blown out. And spent the day trying to start it trying to bled the air out and no luck. seems like the fuel pump is pumping to the injector pump , But then noting from there. Any Ideas of what to try next.
Check the fuel filter it might be plugged but still lest some fuel through, cut it open and inspect it. The orange color in the fuel is mostly from the rust, the rust particles are very small they will go through the filter, they could have deposited in the injection pump and damaged it. Also there is a check valve in the fuel return hose on top of the injection pump take it apart and clean it. Try running some Diesel Kleen mixed with atf through the fuel filter to clean out the pump. If nothing helps might need a new injection pump.
@@7.3ididiesel36 I unhooked the 3/8 line coming from the fuel tank and put a new one to a gallon jug full of clean fuel on the fender in the engine bay I took the fuel filter off cleaned the hole assembly , even the hard pipe coming from the lift pump and the pipe going to the injector pump. I took a piece of stranded number 12 wire made it 6 inches longer than the 2 pipes . and striped back a half in and bent the strands out to make a small wire brush and pushed it through the pipe and put it in a drill. then turned the drill on and very slow pulled it out with it turning. Because there was even small amounts of rust in the pipes. opened the injector pump flushed it, it didn't look to bad. but the solenoid was stuck and I cleaned and freed that up. pulled all injectors and cleaned them and sill won't start. But I didn't know there was a check valve I will clean that. the return to the fuel filter was clogged. and I know the injector pump will be big bucks , don't mind spending money on it but I need to know thats the problem. The lift pump seems to be working because I flushed it with the jug going to the lift pump and another hose going to a empty jug.. And cranked it over, It was orange first then clear. but no pressure from the injector pump. Sorry didn't mean to right a book. LOL
I have a injection pump that is different than the one for my 84 ford f250 when i give it gas it starves for fuel can i adjust the fuel feed to match ,my truck and make it work
The fuel feed is adjustable, I show where to adjust it at in the end of the video. It could possibly work but I don't know have not tried anything like this. There also could be some other problem causing it to starve for fuel, clogged filter, in tank pick up various fuel lines, failing lift pump. Also the injection pump might not have the pressure to pop the injectors if it was made to be used with other injectors. I would try it to see if it works.
Hey buddy I have a question for you. Just installed a reman pump and reman injectors. Idles terrible, has decent throttle response, but white smokes like a dickens. Is it my fuel timing? I’m no expert.
WOW enjoyed your vlog. I have a 94 IDI 7.3 turbo. Have had it only a short time my first diesel so have so much to learn. You briefly mentioned the cruise control. Mine isn't working and I wonder where the control module is. In trying mine it seemed to work for a few seconds and then there was a click in the gas peddle and it shut off. I just don't know where to start to look for the problem. Any ideas?
Thank you. There could be many reasons why the cruse control dose not work. Check the cable that attaches to the throttle on the injection pump, it sometimes comes off. The servo is vacuum controlled there could be a vacuum leak, check vacuum hoses. Also check the wires and contacts in the steering wheel, if your truck has a manual gearbox check the clutch safety switch on the clutch pedal, it will turn off cruise control if clutch is pushed. The control module/ relay is under the dash. Hope this helps.
@@7.3ididiesel36 It is an automatic C-6 I think. I saw one example of some guy removing the steering wheel on his gaser motor home. That was interesting I never knew how that worked. This has been a sharp learning curve for me...but thanks to guys like you and others you help guys like me a ton. I'll keep trying to figure it out and thanks so much for your help.
So the truck I got starts fine some times and other I gotta give a hit of starter fluid. sometimes it'll die as I'm driving...will it start with this not working , I got no clue
when a cold weather idi cold start is needed the factory instructions say pedal to the mat when cold once warm and its cold they say half throttle per owners manual
So no matter what the pump is in Time to the gear if the pin is in the hole right then it’s just timing it to the engine by scooting pump back and forth
The pump is from Diesel Care and Performance Inc. Not all 7.3s are IDI. IDI means indirect injection, there in a preignition chamber in the head. The 7.3 IDI was made from 1986 to 1994, then came out the 7.3 powerstroke from 1994.5 to 2002. The 7.3 powerstroke is a completely different engine It is direct injection, with a computer controlled high pressure oil system that fires the injectors. The only thing that is the same between these engines is the displacement.
do u have a pyro i didnt really catch if u did or not cause i wanna turn my pump up a little bit but i dont have a pyro so what is the safest amount to turn it up without a pyro
Not at the time but I did not turn it up until I installed a pyro. Haven't seen any egt increase driving in town and highway. I only turned it up 3 flats.
pyros are not a safe bet on these engines. better off with a engine temp gauge in the rear port on the block and watch the difernce between front and rear of engine. its also cheaper compared to a pyro. i pull hard with my engine and its nice to know what the hotest part of the motor is. the front 2 temp sensors are nice but really useless for temp purposes as its reading cooled coolant and not actually engine temp.
Very good video. Thanks. Got an update on how the pump is holding up? Think I found the Ebayer you bought from, 'dieselcare' (Ebay ID) out of Mempis. They have pretty good FB. One year Warrantee. Looks like they have gone up to $405. Update: Called O'Reilly, They have them for $556 W/lifetime Warrantee. I'll decide by next week which route to go. I'm a Truck Driver. So I'm not home much to drive the P/U. Usually less than 2000 a year. Maybe more like 1000 Mi/yr
I had a lot of problems buying a rebuilt Stanadyne DB2 fuel injector pump for my 7.3 IDI from "dieselcare and performance" out of Memphis. They sent me the wrong mismatched pump. It was very hard to get to talk to anyone in charge or knew much about the business. But they sure were quick to try and to sell me stuff. I did buy a set of Fuel Injectors from them which are now installed. But they would not refund my money, at least not yet, for the incorrect FIP which I returned. I Google search them and there are lots of complaints on the Better Business Bureau pages about how dishonestly they run their business and don't know what they're doing. I'd suggest anybody check that out first before buying from them. It seems like there may be some new management, big staff turnover in the last year and 1/2 or so. I am sending them a certified letter tomorrow to demand refund of my money. They have their incorrect FIP back, but I don't have my $460 back. I ended up buying another rebuilt FIP from Dieselogic dot com in Jacksonville Florida. They were much more expert, paid attention to me as a customer, answered all my questions right away, or if it was after hours I could text them, and get text answer back the next day. A real quality operation, and I'd go back to them for more business. I'm doing the final set up now, hope to have it started and running smoothly in the next day or 2.
Any idea how to get the throttle shaft pin out ? (where it interfaces with the throttle position sensor) - trying to replace o-rings inside my pump but need to remove this pin to do so
Sorry I don't know but you would probably have to take the pump apart. There is no throttle position sensor 7.3 idi is all mechanical there is no computer for it. The 7.3 Powerstroke that came after the idi had a turbo, was computer controlled, and was direct injected.
Yes the pumps are rebuildable, the one I put in is rebuilt, but to rebuild it yourself would be quite hard the tolerances in these pumps are very tight and everything has to be very clean when reassembling the pump. Also special tools are needed to re calibrate the pump.
Good vid but never ever buy any thing rebuilt off ebay lol that shit wont last more than 20,000 miles bet.... I learnt my lesson buying a turbo off ebay for 500$ for my 1990 f250 lariat xlt 4x4 7.3 diesel.... Ended up buying a 2800$ real turbo conversion kit "banks sidewinder " after the ebay turbo blew up....
I highly doubt it will only last 20,000 miles and even if it does it will take me many years to drive 20,000 miles, I only drive 3,000 miles per year. I have bought lots of cheep rebuilt stuff off ebay never had any problems.
Depends where it's leaking from. Check the fuel lines on the pump they sometimes come loose and leak, also there is a cover with two bolts on the right side of the pump that has a gasket and is easy to replace. If the leak is coming from the head of the pump or the throttle linkage there are internal seals and the pump has to be disassembled. If that is the case I would replace the pump.
@@7.3ididiesel36 dude thats a shity pump a real one cost 500$ to 600$ lol i had to replace my injection pump,plug timer,plugs,wire harness and fuel water separator.... Never ever buy shit off ebay ...
Check the injector return lines for leaks first, even if they are just slightly damp this will allow air to get in and cause hard starting problems. Injection pumps usually last between 150- 200,000 miles. If yours has about this amount of miles you can expect the injection pump going bad. Does it only do it on cold starts after sitting for a while?
The timing marks just get it close so it will run. To get the exact timing it needs to be done with a timing light. It can be done by sound, that is how I did it. More clatter means more advanced, less clatter means the timing retarded. Going on for the third year running like this no problems.
@@7.3ididiesel36 Yea, can do by noise...just sayin...original mark is from factory. Replaces a many many of those beasts. BTW, A quart of ATF serves the same if not better than diesel fuel treatment...just experience from that '93 low-sulfur swithover. So many rolling idle problems. A quart of ATF in fuel tank and that problem disappears in about an hour.
@@nhzxboi I have ATF works relay well. The fuel metering valve would stick in the old pump, the ATF fixed it, but the old pump was worn out so I replaced the pump.
Very an 02 would be a 7.3 Powerstroke, completely different engine apart from the displacement. The 7.3 Powersroke is computer controlled and uses a high pressure oil system for the injectors it dose not have an injection pump like 7.3 IDI.
One of the most informational vids on the subject I've seen.. and you didn't pull the timing cover! Smart man.. haha
Thanks. It's much easier without pulling the timing cover.
Great video, I just picked up a 89 F250 7.3 IDI, with 54K miles I had one in 90 but wanted to review all this stuff that I forgot! nice job.
Thank you.
I also recently aquired an 89 extended cab with a dually rear...
Wasn't planning on keeping it, but probably will...
It'll be the third Ford diesel I've had...
Always seem to end up with a Blue Oval...
Best Vid and awesome detailed description I have seen yet!
I've been a mechanic for many years can tell you "Really" know what you are talking about. I have yet to follow anyone in 8 years of net and guess what"You have made my list!
My only suggestion is to talk a little more clear. It was hard to understand what you were saying about the red paint, although i do know what it is for (Anti tamper warranty paint) Don't ever change bud.
Thank you!
Good instructions to follow, doing mine tomorrow. I won't be turning mine up any. No sense it takinging a chance in motor failure
Thumbs up for you on this video. You are thorough, proceed in a good order, and explain specifically as you go along. As one of the guys said in comments below, some your words aren't so clear. But I watched it twice, and putting everything into context I figured out what you are saying. This video is right up there in the top 2 or 3 on this subject. I've looked at probably 40 or 50 RUclips videos trying to learn how to do this for the first time on my 1986 International.
Bet that was a pretty penny. Got a 93 7.3 idi took one of the injection lines off and crank engine getting like drips and few bubbles. Fuel and vac pump is good
Thanks for the video brotha. Hey what would be the symptoms of needing to replace the injection pump?
You are welcome. When the pump starts to go bad it will be hard to start, rough running/ misfire, loss of power, engine stalling coming off throttle.
This is a great video and I just subscribed to your page. I have an E350 with the same engine, I have a question regarding the injection pump. On the back of my pump at the torque bolt it seems like its been either broken off or it may be a spot for a sensor plug in. Could you give me some input on the torque screw and why it may be broken or was there a DB2 pump offered with a sensor in that same spot ? My 7.3 idi is not currently running and im wondering if that broken screw or missing sensor part is causing the pump to take in air and mess up the flow of fuel. Should i just get a new/reman pump ? Thanks
Thank you for subscribing. The torque screw itself is just a screw all it does is limit fuel at low rpm. At high rpm fuel is limited by an internal leaf spring. Turing the screw out will give more fuel. There are no sensors on the pump except if you have the E40D auto gearbox there will be a throttle position sensor on the side on the pump for the gearbox. If the screw has been turned/missing it will cause fueling problems. Also it might be getting air in the system if the screw is loose or missing this will also cause running problems. You could get a new screw and try adjusting it, might fix the problem. But if the pump has over 150k miles I would consider a new/rebuilt pump as it is starting to get worn out. Hope this helps.
Thank you for answering ! My E350 has 90k miles and is currently dumping white smoke but it's def unburnt fuel so I ordered a set of injectors to swap out. I am considering just doing the pump while I'm doing the injectors anyway. The truck sat for roughly 8 years so im wondering if my problem isn't actually the pump and not the injectors ? What's your take on it ? @@7.3ididiesel36
Did you get all of the old fuel out? If it has been sitting for 8 years then the diesel will have degraded and it also could have water contamination there for it will not burn right causing smoke. If it runs ok and just smokes put fresh fuel in it with some good injector cleaner like Diesel Kleen and drive it some to see if the smoke goes away.
If you replace just the injectors there is a chance that the old pump will be too weak pop the new injectors properly. @@daltonshaw3317
@@7.3ididiesel36 Yes I dumped all the old fuel before I got it running and put in fresh diesel along with additive and changed all the filters with a mix of fresh fuel and ATF to help with all components. I have decided to replace the pump along with the injectors. When I pull the pump out can I just put the new (Reman) pump right back in the same way the old one came out and then hook everything back up ? Do I need to set the timing gear top center or anything specific or can it simply be replaced the way it sits when I remove the old pump ? TIA !
My thought is that if I remove the old pump and make sure that nothing moves as it sits, then I can just fit the new pump into the same position as the old pump. Is this correct ?
I agree with everyone else great video very informative very educational thank you 👍👍👍
Good job man ! Best video I seen in the bunch ! You did not have to use any gasket sealant where the pump meets ? No thread lock on the front bolts ? Thanks for the good work !
I’ve got a truck with a hypermax turbo and you don’t need head studs. If you want to do it because it makes you feel better go for it. But you can’t put the heads on the engine when the engine is in the truck with head studs. But anyway great video.
Excellence Video, Thank You!
Thanks for the video. I'm new to diesels.
You're welcome.
Nice video. I bought a 1990 F350 crew cab. 7.3 IDI. It was starting fine ,after a couple days it just wouldn't start. I pulled the fuel filter and it smelled like bad old fuel. Old diesel smells just like old gas. so I dropped the tank sucked the fuel out , It was orange, the tank was so rusted it turned the fuel orange. Turns out this truck had been setting for 20 years. So I did as much as I could to get the lines blown out. And spent the day trying to start it trying to bled the air out and no luck. seems like the fuel pump is pumping to the injector pump , But then noting from there. Any Ideas of what to try next.
Check the fuel filter it might be plugged but still lest some fuel through, cut it open and inspect it. The orange color in the fuel is mostly from the rust, the rust particles are very small they will go through the filter, they could have deposited in the injection pump and damaged it. Also there is a check valve in the fuel return hose on top of the injection pump take it apart and clean it. Try running some Diesel Kleen mixed with atf through the fuel filter to clean out the pump. If nothing helps might need a new injection pump.
@@7.3ididiesel36 I unhooked the 3/8 line coming from the fuel tank and put a new one to a gallon jug full of clean fuel on the fender in the engine bay I took the fuel filter off cleaned the hole assembly , even the hard pipe coming from the lift pump and the pipe going to the injector pump. I took a piece of stranded number 12 wire made it 6 inches longer than the 2 pipes . and striped back a half in and bent the strands out to make a small wire brush and pushed it through the pipe and put it in a drill. then turned the drill on and very slow pulled it out with it turning. Because there was even small amounts of rust in the pipes. opened the injector pump flushed it, it didn't look to bad. but the solenoid was stuck and I cleaned and freed that up. pulled all injectors and cleaned them and sill won't start. But I didn't know there was a check valve I will clean that. the return to the fuel filter was clogged. and I know the injector pump will be big bucks , don't mind spending money on it but I need to know thats the problem. The lift pump seems to be working because I flushed it with the jug going to the lift pump and another hose going to a empty jug.. And cranked it over, It was orange first then clear. but no pressure from the injector pump. Sorry didn't mean to right a book. LOL
I have a injection pump that is different than the one for my 84 ford f250 when i give it gas it starves for fuel can i adjust the fuel feed to match ,my truck and make it work
The fuel feed is adjustable, I show where to adjust it at in the end of the video. It could possibly work but I don't know have not tried anything like this. There also could be some other problem causing it to starve for fuel, clogged filter, in tank pick up various fuel lines, failing lift pump. Also the injection pump might not have the pressure to pop the injectors if it was made to be used with other injectors. I would try it to see if it works.
Do u have to turn the shaft to line up with the Dowl on the gear ? I’m just curious
Yes.
You think you could move that camera any faster ?
Hey buddy I have a question for you. Just installed a reman pump and reman injectors. Idles terrible, has decent throttle response, but white smokes like a dickens. Is it my fuel timing? I’m no expert.
WOW enjoyed your vlog. I have a 94 IDI 7.3 turbo. Have had it only a short time my first diesel so have so much to learn. You briefly mentioned the cruise control. Mine isn't working and I wonder where the control module is. In trying mine it seemed to work for a few seconds and then there was a click in the gas peddle and it shut off. I just don't know where to start to look for the problem. Any ideas?
Thank you. There could be many reasons why the cruse control dose not work. Check the cable that attaches to the throttle on the injection pump, it sometimes comes off. The servo is vacuum controlled there could be a vacuum leak, check vacuum hoses. Also check the wires and contacts in the steering wheel, if your truck has a manual gearbox check the clutch safety switch on the clutch pedal, it will turn off cruise control if clutch is pushed. The control module/ relay is under the dash. Hope this helps.
@@7.3ididiesel36 It is an automatic C-6 I think. I saw one example of some guy removing the steering wheel on his gaser motor home. That was interesting I never knew how that worked. This has been a sharp learning curve for me...but thanks to guys like you and others you help guys like me a ton. I'll keep trying to figure it out and thanks so much for your help.
So the truck I got starts fine some times and other I gotta give a hit of starter fluid. sometimes it'll die as I'm driving...will it start with this not working , I got no clue
when a cold weather idi cold start is needed the factory instructions say pedal to the mat when cold once warm and its cold they say half throttle per owners manual
Should be on the sun visor too...
BS
@@hook86 facts had one for 24 yrs and live in subzero climate plug it in or its never starting
The white smoke is from a timing problem, not the fuel pressure.
Do you need to reseal that little triangle after turning the pump up or does it have a gasket
No need to reseal it, it has a gasket.
I have two cracked metal lines. I've been trying to figure out if I can replace them in place without pulling the pump.
Yes they can be replaced without removing the pump.
So no matter what the pump is in Time to the gear if the pin is in the hole right then it’s just timing it to the engine by scooting pump back and forth
Yes that is correct.
How do you time it to the engine?
My 89 is leaking engine oil under the IP would that be the o ring where the timing gear sits ,or where the complete housing sits on the block ?
Could be both, most likely the o ring.
7.3 IDI Diesel thanks bro keep up the good work
How do I make sure timing is right I don’t get what the marks do if they are on the old pump
Look at the comment right below yours ...
A few questions. What brand is this? And also stupid question. Are all 7.3 an IDI? What exactly does that mean
The pump is from Diesel Care and Performance Inc. Not all 7.3s are IDI. IDI means indirect injection, there in a preignition chamber in the head. The 7.3 IDI was made from 1986 to 1994, then came out the 7.3 powerstroke from 1994.5 to 2002. The 7.3 powerstroke is a completely different engine It is direct injection, with a computer controlled high pressure oil system that fires the injectors. The only thing that is the same between these engines is the displacement.
@@7.3ididiesel36 got it! Thank you very helpful
What did you do for the tps buddy? I have a 1993 7.3 idi and replaced the pump last night Truck fires up beautifully. But having issues with the tps
Don't have tps with manual gearbox. Only automatic gearbox has tps.
What is a flat? When you turn it up 2 flats?
Flat is one side of the allen key, 3 flats is half turn, 6 flats is one full turn, 2 flats would be slightly less than half turn.
7.3 IDI Diesel
Oh that's cool never heard that
1:57 why does it say F.c. was the unibomber their? lol but seriously i wonder what it means
do u have a pyro i didnt really catch if u did or not cause i wanna turn my pump up a little bit but i dont have a pyro so what is the safest amount to turn it up without a pyro
Not at the time but I did not turn it up until I installed a pyro. Haven't seen any egt increase driving in town and highway. I only turned it up 3 flats.
7.3 IDI Diesel whats the term of flats?
i think he means 90 degrees 3x?
pyros are not a safe bet on these engines. better off with a engine temp gauge in the rear port on the block and watch the difernce between front and rear of engine. its also cheaper compared to a pyro. i pull hard with my engine and its nice to know what the hotest part of the motor is. the front 2 temp sensors are nice but really useless for temp purposes as its reading cooled coolant and not actually engine temp.
SynQ Creamyy flats on a Allan wrench
I Snapped the bolt off of the fuel adjustment cover when i was putting it back on🙂
You will might have to remove the pump to drill it out if it broke off flush, if some of it is still sticking out try to remove it with vise grips.
Very good video. Thanks. Got an update on how the pump is holding up? Think I found the Ebayer you bought from, 'dieselcare' (Ebay ID) out of Mempis. They have pretty good FB. One year Warrantee. Looks like they have gone up to $405. Update: Called O'Reilly, They have them for $556 W/lifetime Warrantee. I'll decide by next week which route to go. I'm a Truck Driver. So I'm not home much to drive the P/U. Usually less than 2000 a year. Maybe more like 1000 Mi/yr
Thank you. Had no problems at all with the pump, mind you I only put around 6000- 7000 miles on it
I had a lot of problems buying a rebuilt Stanadyne DB2 fuel injector pump for my 7.3 IDI from "dieselcare and performance" out of Memphis. They sent me the wrong mismatched pump. It was very hard to get to talk to anyone in charge or knew much about the business. But they sure were quick to try and to sell me stuff. I did buy a set of Fuel Injectors from them which are now installed. But they would not refund my money, at least not yet, for the incorrect FIP which I returned. I Google search them and there are lots of complaints on the Better Business Bureau pages about how dishonestly they run their business and don't know what they're doing. I'd suggest anybody check that out first before buying from them. It seems like there may be some new management, big staff turnover in the last year and 1/2 or so. I am sending them a certified letter tomorrow to demand refund of my money. They have their incorrect FIP back, but I don't have my $460 back. I ended up buying another rebuilt FIP from Dieselogic dot com in Jacksonville Florida. They were much more expert, paid attention to me as a customer, answered all my questions right away, or if it was after hours I could text them, and get text answer back the next day. A real quality operation, and I'd go back to them for more business. I'm doing the final set up now, hope to have it started and running smoothly in the next day or 2.
Thank you sir good vid
You're welcome.
Any idea how to get the throttle shaft pin out ? (where it interfaces with the throttle position sensor) - trying to replace o-rings inside my pump but need to remove this pin to do so
Sorry I don't know but you would probably have to take the pump apart. There is no throttle position sensor 7.3 idi is all mechanical there is no computer for it. The 7.3 Powerstroke that came after the idi had a turbo, was computer controlled, and was direct injected.
Hammer. You got a lot going on on the inside if you want to replace those o rings.
Are these pumps rebuildable
Yes the pumps are rebuildable, the one I put in is rebuilt, but to rebuild it yourself would be quite hard the tolerances in these pumps are very tight and everything has to be very clean when reassembling the pump. Also special tools are needed to re calibrate the pump.
Good vid but never ever buy any thing rebuilt off ebay lol that shit wont last more than 20,000 miles bet.... I learnt my lesson buying a turbo off ebay for 500$ for my 1990 f250 lariat xlt 4x4 7.3 diesel.... Ended up buying a 2800$ real turbo conversion kit "banks sidewinder " after the ebay turbo blew up....
I highly doubt it will only last 20,000 miles and even if it does it will take me many years to drive 20,000 miles, I only drive 3,000 miles per year. I have bought lots of cheep rebuilt stuff off ebay never had any problems.
You didn't have to bend a wrench to get those mounting bolts off?
No the mounting bolts where not too tight. The wrench didn't go on to the bolts all the way though but it got them off.
Weird, I can't even get a wrench in there.
It's quite hard took me a while to get the wrench in there.
Does pump still perform good?
Yes no problems at all.
Why does everyone talk about melting the motor...
Because it's very possible to do. Too much fuel thrown in these motors and you'll tear up your pistons eventually
My IP pump is leaking from the bottom I can see it dripping, could it be rebuild or replace
Depends where it's leaking from. Check the fuel lines on the pump they sometimes come loose and leak, also there is a cover with two bolts on the right side of the pump that has a gasket and is easy to replace. If the leak is coming from the head of the pump or the throttle linkage there are internal seals and the pump has to be disassembled. If that is the case I would replace the pump.
thanks bro
What do you mean by flats?
It means one side of the allen key, 3 flats would be 1/2 turn, 6 flats would be 1 turn of the allen screw.
@@7.3ididiesel36 ok makes sense. Thanks
How long would this take
It took me around 6 hours to do.
How much was it?
$ 375.
@@7.3ididiesel36 that’s it! Man I got a quote from my local auto store they told me like around $950
@@nick70ist1 It is a rebuilt pump. New pumps around the $800- 1200 range.
How much was the pump?
Where did you get it from?
The pump was around $375, I got it from ebay.
7.3 IDI Diesel thanks
@@7.3ididiesel36 dude thats a shity pump a real one cost 500$ to 600$ lol i had to replace my injection pump,plug timer,plugs,wire harness and fuel water separator.... Never ever buy shit off ebay ...
@@bluntman305 Doesn't matter I don't have a problem with replacing it again.
My 7.3 starts and runs for just a little bit then dies injector pump maybe
Check the injector return lines for leaks first, even if they are just slightly damp this will allow air to get in and cause hard starting problems. Injection pumps usually last between 150- 200,000 miles. If yours has about this amount of miles you can expect the injection pump going bad. Does it only do it on cold starts after sitting for a while?
The timing mark means zero with a new pump. Timing light/trigger critical!!!
The timing marks just get it close so it will run. To get the exact timing it needs to be done with a timing light. It can be done by sound, that is how I did it. More clatter means more advanced, less clatter means the timing retarded. Going on for the third year running like this no problems.
@@7.3ididiesel36 Yea, can do by noise...just sayin...original mark is from factory. Replaces a many many of those beasts. BTW, A quart of ATF serves the same if not better than diesel fuel treatment...just experience from that '93 low-sulfur swithover. So many rolling idle problems. A quart of ATF in fuel tank and that problem disappears in about an hour.
@@nhzxboi I have ATF works relay well. The fuel metering valve would stick in the old pump, the ATF fixed it, but the old pump was worn out so I replaced the pump.
How much different is any 02
Very an 02 would be a 7.3 Powerstroke, completely different engine apart from the displacement. The 7.3 Powersroke is computer controlled and uses a high pressure oil system for the injectors it dose not have an injection pump like 7.3 IDI.
Thanks man
what die you pay for a New DB2?
$375, it's a re-manufactured pump.
Thanks, glad the video helped. Sorry that they are so expensive in Canada.
Kyle Johnstone go buy one in the U.S then
where did you find one for $375?
Ebay.
Tengo una que tarda mucho en frío
Ok
It looks hard I don't think I could do it
not too bad i have never had a diesel before. but its definitely not the easiest job 3 outta 5