I wished I had seen this one last year before i OVER-pruned my 4 year old desert king. Its now going to be entering a 2-3 yr growth cycle. I put it back by over pruning. So, No brebas this year...hope to get a few main crop figs, it will be a little miracle if that happens here.
I've watched a lot of fig pruning videos but your explanation with first year, second year comparisons is excellent and very easy to understand. I have some first year trees in dormancy and will prune in early spring.Thank you so much.
after all the videos I've watched about pruning these guys...this was/is by far the one that actually taught me.I have a desert king..4 yrs now..I never pruned it till this past February. It was pretty tall and is now the size and shape of the bush style fig tree you showed us here. Its got 3 nice thick trunks or lower branches, not sure what they actually are hahah!...Anyhow, when the new branches form from the buds below that 40 cm cut, and they grow and grow....how short do we cut those to..when the next pruning happens?Thankyou so much for this..I get it.
Thank you very much! ☺ I'm glad you've enjoyed it. Fig trees transform soo quickly its hard to say what's what at times LOL. I know what you mean though, on my 2nd year pruned fig tree that had 3 scaffolds formed, the new branches that formed right under, which fruited, will be cut back to around 10-30cm. You'll want to leave about 4-8 nodes that the new branches will come off again the following year. And then that cycle is pretty much repeated forever. The more you prune, the more you'll get back in new wood. Its up to you how compact you want the tree to be, and if or not you'd like to up pot the fig to further advance the spacing of the fruiting branches because the pot size is realistically what dictates how much CM you should take off.
@@QualityGardener Thankyou. When I pruned the tree in February for the 1st time, I took alot off!! I also root pruned plus I up-potted the tree into a 15 gallon container. I believe that will do it well for a few years. So it looks like this tree is an open bush form now...and has several buds formed under the scaffold cuts I did in Feb. So, this 4 year old tree (that I blindly over pruned ) is basically back into a 2nd year growth phase.Hmm, this is what happens when we listen to people who dont know how to teach very well so that we understand. I wish I saw yours last year...pre Feb 2024! So the new growth from this year will be pruned to 30-45 cm. And then next year..the new growth under those cuts will be pruned to 10-30 cm leaving 4-8 nodes on each branch. And then keep repeating. Thankyou!!!!
Great consideration I did not think of that! I must say though I am not a huge fan of Desert King main crop so I cant imagine breba to be any better, but take that with a grain of salt as the tree is still very young and could surprise this year! Thank you for watching :)!
@@QualityGardener as above desert king is generally grown for the breba crop and pruned differently as brebas grow on last years growth ruclips.net/video/RB0D_tuKgtQ/видео.html
Thanks for the video. Question: going forward, starting with the 3rd pruning, do you continue to maintain the same heiight of the the 3 main branches, removing the new growth from the previous season? In other words, those 3 branches remain roughly at 40 centimeters and whatever smaller, fruiting branches that grew the previous season are removed?
Great question. I think this video needs an update, as it did not cover that however you are correct. The 40cm scaffolds, (the 3 branches) should remain in tact pretty much forever until you rejuvenation prune (another video I need to make). Just to reaffirm, The 3 scaffolds should not be touched, only the fruiting wood that comes off. Rejuvenation pruning is an action to perform after the tree is say many many years older to restart its entire life (basically to the basic 40cm stick form) which will then begin the scaffold formation cycle. This is mostly relevant to potted figs all though I've seen it been performed on inground tress. Until then, yes you are correct. You maintain the 3 scaffolds, and you just prune the fruiting wood that comes off it every year to a very low height of say 10-30cm as I mentioned here in a previous comment. (With this approach, this stage of pruning is repeated every year unless you'd like to rejuvenate prune.) To reaffirm, once the tree reaches this stage, its pruned like this forever, and then your tree develops / starts to look like one of those typical Japanese ancient looking trees! which ironically this guide is based off). Pruning at this stage, (The one you are asking about) can very greatly as with each advancement of the fig form, the rules become much more open minded or free if I'm to say. The best advice I can give after this, is that it depends on the pot size. The smaller the pot, the more fruiting wood I would take off the scaffolds (3 branches in this video) Hope this helps and thank you for watching and your comment :)!
I would love to do an update video in the future. Its something I have planned. Unfortunately I culled the Black Ischia in this video as I found out that its not the right variety as with many others this year. The rest have done very well though and would love to showcase soon :)
Hi there! Main crop fruit comes / forms on new growth, therefore you get fruit every season when the tree puts out new growth. First year trees typically will not produce much fruit or none at all. Some varieties can do it earlier than others. From my experience, fruit usually starts to form well on 2nd year trees, and if not by then then the 3rd year it should produce a decent amount. Breba crop will form on wood from previous years and I have had some, just nowhere near as much. Desert king is an example of a good breba producer. I'm not much of a breba enthusiast though, my main focus is main crop. Hope this helps! :)
I have had the hardest time finding someone talk about a bush form. Thanks a bunch.
This was great- I really liked the side by side comparison of first to second year tree pruning. Thanks.
Underrated channel. Your figs have excellent form, can't wait to see your harvests. Keep up the great work 😸
I wished I had seen this one last year before i OVER-pruned my 4 year old desert king. Its now going to be entering a 2-3 yr growth cycle. I put it back by over pruning. So, No brebas this year...hope to get a few main crop figs, it will be a little miracle if that happens here.
I've watched a lot of fig pruning videos but your explanation with first year, second year comparisons is excellent and very easy to understand. I have some first year trees in dormancy and will prune in early spring.Thank you so much.
Excellent advice on pruning!
Thanks for this. One of the best videos I've seen on this subject
Good info. Thank you. 👍
Thank you very much for sharing 🌱✂️👍
Great explanation and demonstration. Thanks
Thanks!
Good lesson lad.
Thank you so much that's what I needed.!!!!!!!👌🙌
.
I am very happy to hear it is of benefit! All the best with your fig trees and thank you for watching!
Thank you.😊
after all the videos I've watched about pruning these guys...this was/is by far the one that actually taught me.I have a desert king..4 yrs now..I never pruned it till this past February. It was pretty tall and is now the size and shape of the bush style fig tree you showed us here. Its got 3 nice thick trunks or lower branches, not sure what they actually are hahah!...Anyhow, when the new branches form from the buds below that 40 cm cut, and they grow and grow....how short do we cut those to..when the next pruning happens?Thankyou so much for this..I get it.
Thank you very much! ☺ I'm glad you've enjoyed it. Fig trees transform soo quickly its hard to say what's what at times LOL. I know what you mean though, on my 2nd year pruned fig tree that had 3 scaffolds formed, the new branches that formed right under, which fruited, will be cut back to around 10-30cm. You'll want to leave about 4-8 nodes that the new branches will come off again the following year. And then that cycle is pretty much repeated forever. The more you prune, the more you'll get back in new wood. Its up to you how compact you want the tree to be, and if or not you'd like to up pot the fig to further advance the spacing of the fruiting branches because the pot size is realistically what dictates how much CM you should take off.
@@QualityGardener Thankyou. When I pruned the tree in February for the 1st time, I took alot off!! I also root pruned plus I up-potted the tree into a 15 gallon container. I believe that will do it well for a few years. So it looks like this tree is an open bush form now...and has several buds formed under the scaffold cuts I did in Feb. So, this 4 year old tree (that I blindly over pruned ) is basically back into a 2nd year growth phase.Hmm, this is what happens when we listen to people who dont know how to teach very well so that we understand. I wish I saw yours last year...pre Feb 2024! So the new growth from this year will be pruned to 30-45 cm. And then next year..the new growth under those cuts will be pruned to 10-30 cm leaving 4-8 nodes on each branch. And then keep repeating. Thankyou!!!!
Good tutorial!
Thank you!
Thank u for sharing 🪴
Thank you for watching! :)
Desert king produces breba, and main falls off. You have to prune it differently.
Great consideration I did not think of that! I must say though I am not a huge fan of Desert King main crop so I cant imagine breba to be any better, but take that with a grain of salt as the tree is still very young and could surprise this year! Thank you for watching :)!
@QualityGardener I have heard the breba of desert king are much better than the main... I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
@@socorrogonzalez5891 Ive only had a few from ours ,and they were good. I also had nothing to compare them to, which is ok too.
@@QualityGardener as above desert king is generally grown for the breba crop and pruned differently as brebas grow on last years growth ruclips.net/video/RB0D_tuKgtQ/видео.html
Good information. Thank you with a sub/likie. and greetings from Maryland, US.
Thanks for the video. Question: going forward, starting with the 3rd pruning, do you continue to maintain the same heiight of the the 3 main branches, removing the new growth from the previous season? In other words, those 3 branches remain roughly at 40 centimeters and whatever smaller, fruiting branches that grew the previous season are removed?
Great question. I think this video needs an update, as it did not cover that however you are correct. The 40cm scaffolds, (the 3 branches) should remain in tact pretty much forever until you rejuvenation prune (another video I need to make). Just to reaffirm, The 3 scaffolds should not be touched, only the fruiting wood that comes off.
Rejuvenation pruning is an action to perform after the tree is say many many years older to restart its entire life (basically to the basic 40cm stick form) which will then begin the scaffold formation cycle. This is mostly relevant to potted figs all though I've seen it been performed on inground tress.
Until then, yes you are correct. You maintain the 3 scaffolds, and you just prune the fruiting wood that comes off it every year to a very low height of say 10-30cm as I mentioned here in a previous comment. (With this approach, this stage of pruning is repeated every year unless you'd like to rejuvenate prune.)
To reaffirm, once the tree reaches this stage, its pruned like this forever, and then your tree develops / starts to look like one of those typical Japanese ancient looking trees! which ironically this guide is based off).
Pruning at this stage, (The one you are asking about) can very greatly as with each advancement of the fig form, the rules become much more open minded or free if I'm to say. The best advice I can give after this, is that it depends on the pot size. The smaller the pot, the more fruiting wood I would take off the scaffolds (3 branches in this video)
Hope this helps and thank you for watching and your comment :)!
Do you have an update video? Would like to see how these look like now.
I would love to do an update video in the future. Its something I have planned. Unfortunately I culled the Black Ischia in this video as I found out that its not the right variety as with many others this year. The rest have done very well though and would love to showcase soon :)
Thank you for your great knowledge... please tell me can I replant all the cuttings to from more container figs?
Mark
Gold Coast QLD
Hi there Mark. Thank you for watching! 🙂Yes you can absolutely root the cuttings into new trees again.
so you would only get fruit in your 3rd year?
what about fruitlets in the 2nd year? can you let them grow then prune back?
Hi there! Main crop fruit comes / forms on new growth, therefore you get fruit every season when the tree puts out new growth. First year trees typically will not produce much fruit or none at all. Some varieties can do it earlier than others. From my experience, fruit usually starts to form well on 2nd year trees, and if not by then then the 3rd year it should produce a decent amount. Breba crop will form on wood from previous years and I have had some, just nowhere near as much. Desert king is an example of a good breba producer. I'm not much of a breba enthusiast though, my main focus is main crop. Hope this helps! :)
"promosm"
Wanting to learn, but hard to trust you when you keep saying "dessert" king 😅