Electrical Repair of Nesco Dehydrator
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- I troubleshoot and repair a non-working 12 year old Nesco dehydrator with some basic electrical calculations thrown in.
I show how to figure out how many watts your dehydrator is with some simple calculations.
Dude, you rock! Thank you so much for posting this. I just fixed our broken dehydrator thanks to your excellent video and saved $60! Plus my wife thinks I'm a hero. Getting the crimped / soldered part open to put the new fuse on was the hardest part. Found working a sharp metal point in first (have one with my screwdriver set), then doing the pocket knife bit to open it did the trick. Other than that, it was pretty much as you said. Great job showing your work.
Just wanted to say thank you for this video. We were able to do the exact same fix (thanks to your instructions) which saved me from throwing away my dehydrator which I have loved for a long time. It only cost me about $5 to get the part. My husband soldered the new part in and it works perfectly again. We have extra fuses so if it ever happens again, we'll be ready.
Outstanding. I followed your directions step by step and I have a working dehydrator and 4 extra fuses. Oh yea!
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! Was able to repair my 15 year old dehydrator which I got free from a friend to keep it working for many more years! Can't thank you enough!
I love youtubers they have saved me tons of money Thanks so much!
NOT a thermistor (used to monitor temperature). NOT a current limiting fuse. IS a thermal cutoff or thermal fuse. Look for a cutoff temperature number on the side of the device to order replacement parts.
Running the dryer with only one tray at 160 degrees made my unit overheat...I think.
Thanks for the good instructions.
To summarize: always have an extinguisher ready to go when you attempt to repair anything :) thank you for a great, informative video! It definitely helps!
Thanks for the vid! Wife wouldn't wait for me to get the varistors and ordered another one. Now we have two working dehydrators and spare varistors for both! Thanks again!!!
Great job, mine just died and I ordered the wrong part on Amz. but thanks to you I was able to cancel part and ordered the right one. three days and happy happy. thanks for your time and video.
Thank you sir for posting this. I followed all the steps given and my open country dehydrator runs like new. Greetings from Mexico¡
I found a source of problem that causes the thermal fuse to blow. My Nesco Dehydrator's thermostat had the contacts welded by a tiny piece of metal between the contact faces. The source of the metal was the contact face itself forming a sliver from the arc-plasma during cycling. Using a diamond contact file I was able to resurface the contact faces and restore the operation of the thermostat.
Thank you so much for a great and clear video. I was suspecting a motor issue but you pointed me in the right direction.
Thank you😄, when my dehydrator quit today, I was thinking oh no! Thanks to you I’ve got the thermal fuse ordered and when it arrives I will be able to repair and get back to drying out food! I subscribed too, fairly certain I’m gonna enjoy the rest of your videos 🙏🏼
Thank you. You just saved me like $100
The thermostats ARE a big problem, and probably the cause of many of the "thermistor" (actually thermal fuse) failures. My unit would not heat at room temperature - and they should, even on the lowest setting (unless you are in summertime Phoenix AZ and then you don't need this dehydrator...). When you open the unit, after removing the 12 screws to get all the covers and plates apart, you will see the thermostat screwed to a thin metal plate. On mine, the lower metal strip of the themostat - the strip with the white post at the end - was fully pressed down onto the metal plate; this pushes the white post up and opens the contacts - thus no heat at ambient temps. By putting a washer between the bottom of the thermostat and the metal plate, the thermostat sits off the plate and the bottom strip is not pushed up. But the bottom strip was bent from the factory assembly that caused this problem in the first place so it had to be gently bent downward to allow the contacts to close at room temperature. Another thing to watch is that the bottom of the white post is directly over the "dent" in the thin metal plate when assembling; if it is slightly off-center of the dent, you might again be contacting the white post base on the metal plate, pushing it up; keep it centered when you tighten down the thermostat. Note that after the tweak of the bottom strip (to allow heating at ambient) the calibrated dial is no longer correct and very difficult to make it read correctly. I actually ran the thermostat (removed from dehydrator) in a small oven with an ohmmeter to see when the contacts opened; I tweaked the bottom strip up/down to get about 60C with the knob in the center of the range and then reassembled everything and it works well but is not in agreement with the knob - not calibrated. So I use a fine wire thermocouple poked into the dehydrator and tweak the thermostat adjustment with a screwdriver (knob removed) to get the temperature I need; this is not ideal, but better than throwing away an otherwise nice unit. In summary, it seems these dehydrators are pretty sketchy - lots of failures and the company has no parts available. They are a nice design, but low quality electrical parts and poor assembly. But at least you can open them up and tweak stuff. I guess this last statement should send most consumers running.
Great video. I put the dehydrator on the porch when drying cayenne peppers so the smell wouldn't bother the dogs, then the sun hit it and it died. Probably the fuse, will order one.
Best not to use solder for anything that heats up. The melting point of leaded solder is considerably higher but still best to crimp.
My experience with American Harvest has not been good. In the distant past had two Jet Stream ovens, both failed within a year or two of use. The Lexan lid would crack from the heat or the belt would break. They cost about $200 plus each at the time. Made in the USA. The Chinese made heating element never failed. I should have known better because no brand name ever made a similar sleek looking unit. Theirs were big bulky and cumbersome.
This made in China Nesco/American Harvest dehydrator appears to be much better. Panasonic is the brand I prefer when given a choice.
Great video. Just ordered the fuse. It went out after I decided to dry some peppers on the porch and the sun hit it so it is almost certainly due to the heat fuse blowing.
Some of these have a recall on them, mine did and they sent me a new one. It would be worth checking out.
+Parlusk Thanks. That is something that I was not aware of.
Cool screwdriver
If the thermal fuse blows more than once the problem might be the thermostat in the dehydrator. There are two "pads" on the thermostat's metal strips that move apart when they reach the set temperature. The pads on mine had a buildup of some type that kept them from separating. A few passes with some fine sandpaper removed the buildup and now the thermostat is properly controlling the temperature; and the thermal fuse is not being blown. I replaced the thermal fuse several times before I found out about the thermostat on fixya.com. It may not be that common a failure because that is the only place I saw the information.
The thermostats ARE a big problem, and probably the cause of all the "thermistor" (actually thermal fuse) failures. My unit would not heat at room temperature - and they should, even on the lowest setting (unless you are in summertime Phoenix AZ and then you don't need this dehydrator...). When you open the unit, after removing the 12 screws to get all the covers and plates apart, you will see the thermostat screwed to a thin metal plate. On mine, the lower metal strip of the themostat - the strip with the white post at the end - was fully pressed down onto the metal plate; this pushes the white post up and opens the contacts - thus no heat at ambient temps. By putting a washer between the bottom of the thermostat and the metal plate, the thermostat sits off the plate and the bottom strip is not pushed up. But the bottom strip was bent from the factory assembly that caused this problem in the first place so it had to be gently bent downward to allow the contacts to close at room temperature. Another thing to watch is that the bottom of the white post is directly over the "dent" in the thin metal plate when assembling; if it is slightly off the dent, the metal plate might again be contacting the bottom strip or white post base. Note that after the tweak of the bottom strip (to allow heating at ambient) the calibrated dial is no longer correct. I actually ran the thermostat (removed from dehydrator) in a small oven with an ohmmeter to see when the contacts opened; I tweaked the bottom strip up/down to get about 60C with the knob in the center of the range and then reassembled everything and it works well but is not in agreement with the knob still - not calibrated. So I use a fine wire thermocouple into the dehydrator and tweak the adjustment to get the temperature I need; this is not ideal, but better than throwing away an otherwise nice unit. In summary, it seems these dehydrators are pretty sketchy - lots of failures and the company has no parts available. They are a nice design, but low quality parts and poor assembly. But at least you can open them up and tweak stuff. I guess this last statement should send most consumers running.
They work good for a while. Mine took a shit too. Dam things are made in fucked up China! Nothing made in china is made to help us! Short lived equipment! I figure its fuses. Thanks so much brother for taking the time to make this money saving and very helpfull video! May God Bless !
You don't get your $$ out of Nesco dehydrators. We've owned 3 & each has taken a shit in a short span of time. I just borrowed my daughter's Nesco & that too died in the same week our last one did, & now need to replace two of them.
Both are like brand new. Dried Thai Chil peppers on 135, evenly spaced for air flow.
Nesco is garbage, plain & simple..
Thank you! I will have to check mine out. Mine died on me while using it. I came back to check on my dehydrator and it won’t start no more.
Nice. It did also have a rattle sound or maybe a fan hitting somewhere sound when he was done. Something seemed a little loose.
Thanks, now I know what to look for to repair my dehydrator.
Thanks BTW just took mine apart and took the fuse out, ordered a new one. I think it has the same problem.
I just found this video and thankful! The fan on mine works but not the heat element. The little fuse does look dark so it must be it. Do you think regular hardware stores would carry the fuses? Maybe an auto parts store?! I have a million peaches to make fruit leather with and this was a heck of a time for this to go bad 😓🤦♀️. Thanks so much!
Thanks. I doubt an auto parts or hardware store would carry this but, you could call and find out. Radio Shack is no more. You might try a local electronics store or you might call an electrical supply house like Graybar or Grainger. This video was made around 7 years ago and the only place I could find these fuses was on line.
@@homesteadprepper thank you!! I live in the middle of nowhere so onlines probably my only option anyways!! Thanks for putting this video together for us! 😊 and thanks for the response!! I can’t really read the numbers on the fuse since it’s so dark so it’s going to be tricky 😬
@@Jennifermcintyre Np. It most probably is one of those SF129E fuses.
@@homesteadprepper thanks so much!! I have a different model.. it’s a 40 year old “harvest Made” model that I inherited from my grandmother and I’d bet that its worked perfectly all those 40 years! I had some peach pulp fall into the motor area and I’m afraid that may have caused this… it’s just weird that the fan works but not the heater.. and the heater coil looks fine… I suppose 40 years is a good run!!
I have just taken mine apart and have discovered one of the spring-like wires has broke near to the rivet. Can it be soldered? My fan works, but I've had not heat. (Cindy),
That is the heating element and it can not be repaired safely. Solder would just melt away. It must be replaced.
i have this same dehydrator and the fuse is bad. I tried to ohm the temp control and it does not change my meter. I assume the ohm's should change as you turn the knob( It shows zero ohm's resistance). Am I wrong on this and if not is that what burned out the thermal fuse. If so this should be checked before repairing fuse. Thanks for the video.
I believe that the temp control is a theromstatic and not a rheostatic control.
What burned out your fuse could be any number of things. Just replace it. Take some amp and temperature readings for safety.
Thank you!
Nice fix, good for another 12 give or take a few..lol Take care
+rchopp Thanks. The replacement parts almost never seem to out last the originals. We shall see.
I have a nesco FD-1010. The Thermal cutoff fuse needs replacing. It is a D1115 117°C Thermal Cutoff Fuse. Any idea where I can Find one?
Thank you! That's a very handy video. After confirming no conductivity across the thermistor, I removed it, but the markings aren't the same as yours, and googling didn't give me an answer for what to get. Any way I could email a picture of the thermistor? Spelling out it (best I can do): AUPO BF 133 [symbol] [PSE] TF133º C F2 [DVE] JET
What markings did you have?
@@mebinglesideil26 I apologize for the slow reply! I tried to spell out in my earlier question what the markings were, but I know what I wrote isn't easily readable. I'd be happy to upload the picture(s) I took, but I'm not sure how to do that. FYI, I did buy 5 of the thermistors mentioned in the video, and replaced the presumably faulty one in my Nesco. And the dehydrator came back to life. I do wonder if the specs for my purchased thermistors are different than the original one I replaced, and wonder if that affects how the dehydrator works. If only the company had opted to put in some sort of a resettable fuse that could turn off the device if overheating....
Hey I have the same dehydrator! And the same Fluke 97 =D Does your scopemeter not give an audible beep for continuity testing? Mine does, though it wasn't too obvious how to put that mode on.
Hi my machine recently died, could you tell me the name of the fuse and where I can order them from
excellent video! is this nesco using an induction or synchronous motor?
Excellent video! I like! I wish you creative inspiration! I'm waiting on you new videos! Thanks for watching my videos!
+Stanislav Grymblat Thank you.
Thanks, I just traced to fuse and ordered SF129E fuses from ebay.
R G thank you!
Thats a unique screwdriver, where did you get it?
You can get one at Home Depot or any electrical supply house.
I'm having a slightly different problem.
The heat lines work, but they turn off again after 1-3 seconds.
Do it again and then it turns off again after 1~3 seconds.
Is this also the effect of Thermal Fuse?
I would replace the thermistor.
If the thermal fuse opens, it is open and you won't EVER get any heating. This is a thermostat problem. I left a reply to Douglas Lonngren about my adventures with the thermostat issues. That might help you.
Thank you.
I have a fd nesco 1010 dehydrator that stopped working.
What are the odds of a new dehydrator going out and the old one same week? I ordered fuses, the hubs is game to fix them. Thanks for the "tube"
Will share your tube at my blog! Don't know what page yet, but here is my home page!! kbeltd.wordpress.com/
Great tutorial. Mine just did the exact same thing. I'm going to take it apart in my homeschool science class with my kids and see what we have. What size element fuse did you end up buying? I have the same model.
I would double check yours to make sure it is the right one but, I ordered fuse sf129e for mine.
thx
I just have not been able to unclamp the busted thermistor :(
Thanks for the great video I have the same problem. My dehydrator just died, it is at least 8 years old Just wondering -- how yours worked out... is it still working? I'm probably overthinking this but if f the fuse blows couldn't it be for a reason other than the fuse just wearing out. Although I know we've replaced fuses in coffee pots, and heaters in the past and they kept on working without burning up or blowing the new fuse. So IDK.
Good question. If the fuse keeps blowing shortly after being changed, we can definitely conclude that something is going bad in the device and it is time to start changing out other components or to start thinking about total replacement. Btw, my dehydrator is still going strong.
A fuse can blow from age, electrical surges, lightning,installation, poor manufacture and etc.
Thank you for teaching us. My nesco FD-80 has died. I don't know how to find the fuse for it and have tried on internet for hours. does your fuse fit my machine? second question, what kind of screwdriver are you using and where can I buy it?
You can call Nesco and ask them for the right fuse for your particular dehydrator or you can just start taking yours apart until you find it. I don't think my thermister will fit your machine, you need to make sure so you don't start a fire. The rotary screwdriver in the vid can be purchased at any electrical supply house or Home Depot.
Electronics-Salon 5 PCS Thermal Fuse Microtemp Cutoff SF139E 142°C, 250V/10A
Great video and instructions.Can you post a link for the fuses you ordered? Also, I messed up one of the coils-is it possible to order a replacement or even the whole assembly?
Just type in SF129E 10amp fuse on Ebay and you can buy 1 or more.
I don't know about the dehydrator parts but, you could call the manufacturer and they would probably sell you what you needed.
@@homesteadprepper my fuse said D1115 SPEY 117°C is this the same fuse?
I have a question. We have one of these and it blows are but the air doesn’t feel warm even when set on 125 degrees, should the air not feel warm at that temp??
I would use a thermometer to check the internal temp.
This has been helpful, but I'm having a hell of a time with the crimps. Any tips?
Do you have a crimping tool?
I couldn't get them open myself. I just cut off the old thermal fuse and put the new one through the rivets holding the crimp connectors. Be sure to bend the leads back to hold it in place.
My nesco dehydrator have no heat, but the thermostat seems to function properly( pass the ohm test) . What else should i check?
Check for open heat coil and 120 volts in.
@@homesteadprepper i just found out that the heat can be turn on initially at high heat(160F), but the heat will turn off after a while and won't turn back on again.
It is either the thermostat or it is the thermistor. You will have to see if you have 120 volts from one side of the thermistor to the other side and see if you have 120 volts going in and out of the thermostat. That should find your problem.
homesteadprepper:
is the temperature control a variable resistor? Also where did you order your thermal fuses from?
Temp control uses a thermostat. At 7:41 in the vid is where I ordered the fuses from ebay.
Do you think I could just cut the old thermistor off and solder in the new one? Will that work well?
Yes.
That sounds awful, you have something contacting the fan. You got erroneous readings because the motor was causing magnetic interference. Oh, and that part you replaced is called a thermal fuse. They generally don't just go bad. Your thermostat went out and that's what killed the fuse.
The thermostat is still working 7 years later, today and that is not what killed the fuse.
How did you get the fan to work before replacing the piece? I just diagnosed mine with the same thermistor issue
Giorgio GetLifted I went direct and bypassed the thermister to test it.
@@homesteadprepper thermistor or fuse?
if you got the fan working, why need the fuses?
The thermistor or fuses will keep your house from burning down. I would highly recommend that you do not ever bypass a fuse, thermistor or any safety device.
@@homesteadprepper Thank you for the explanation!
Great video. How did you find out the type of thermistor? Was it on the part you took off?
It was stamped on the part. Barely readable but, enough.
Thanks, I'll try to pry it off and look. But our dehydrator looks very similar to yours except for some cosmetic differences so I bet it will be the same
I just replaced the thermistor (ours used a TF142C, and you are correct, it was on the part) and it works now! I couldn't pry apart the metal crimped onto the old thermistor, so I just cut it off and soldered on the new one. Thanks again. I'm so glad you and others take the time to make videos like this, since I don't think I would have known to do this on my own.
I got a new thermistor, soldered it on to the unclamped ends where I clipped off the old thermistor I couldn't unclamp, but it's only reading the current on one side of it.. and the fan isn't working, what could've gone wrong? And how do I fix the fan?
Do you have continuity through the thermister? I have had new parts thet were bad right out of the box.
homesteadprepper no, there is no continuity actually, I thought it might have been my soldering job never thought it could be new fuse
Try replacing it but, check for continuity be for you install the next new one.
You might have blown the thermal fuse when you soldered it. It can be tricky, most are mechanically attached.
How did you know which fuse to buy?
It will say on the old one what it is.
What happens if you bypass the fuse? The dial/pot is regulating the voltage right?
I strongly encourage everyone to use the proper size fuse for fire prevention.
The fuse protects the device from overloads and fire.
I’m theory, from armchair warriors, your home fire insurance will be voided since you bypassed a critical safety feature. In reality, it will work but will not have a safety feature anymore.
🤣🤣🤣 professional electronics guy 🤦brother I am my guy 🤷lol
You da man. My wife thinks I am smart now. LOL
Was the m1-garand schematic helpful for this repair?
No and your comment was not helpful for anyone either.
Great video!
what are you showing this video abd then recommended they contact a qualified electrician
Seriously.................................that is basic.
Thanks, fuses in the mail. Don't dehydrate outside, in the sun, in the middle of summer/spring, at 160 degree setting. It gets way too hot.
Just ordered a 10 pack on amazon for less than 10 dollars.
Terrible terrible video work
Terrible terrible comment.