Lancol Micro 200 battery tester car battery analyser
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- Usage scope: All car lead-acid starter battery, including regular flooded, EFB, AGM tablet battery, AGM winding battery, GEL battery, etc.
Suitable for: Automobile facory, garage, auto battery manufacturer, auto battery agent, educational institution, DIY enthusiasts, etc.
After running this tester through the various test-cycling options for 'wet flooded cell' on the nearly-new 75Ah Varta battery on my van (with a current-transformer amp-meter connected as well) I am able to report the following:- That for all of the options I tried' the test current of 5 amperes is applied for 5-seconds. Also, the results consist of an 'amperes' reading, a percentage of the charged-state of the battery, the internal resistance of the battery and the voltage at the end of the test. A pass/fail decision is supplied each time. None of the test cycles available gives a reading in Ampere-Hours.
Of course, the ampere-hours reading is what most U.K. engineers are looking-for. That rating disappeared from U.K. batteries for a number of years, leaving home mechanics to evaluate a new battery by it's weight.
I suppose for a time the U.K. automotive battery market was vulnerable to being supplied with batteries that had some of the lead removed and a bit of concrete added instead (in a secret compartment); but, I don't know whether this ever happened. I am sure we would have eagerly bought such heavy batteries.
Now the A/Hr rating is back on the label of U.K. automotive batteries and what we really need is a device to tell us how much of the battery's original storage capacity remains. So, having bought this and tried it, I have returned to my original opinion, which is that a proper tester will cost you over two-hundred pounds.
It was worth trying this tester, at the price I bought it.
Testing the amp-hours of a battery will require a full discharge test. Aside from the fact that a full discharge of a starting battery (car battery) will drastically reduce its life, a full discharge would take several hours - by definition, the C20 rate printed on the battery labelis the capacity as measured by a slow discharge that would completely empty the battery in 20 hours. The C10 number is twice as fast, taking 10 hours (as a result of which the reported capacity would be less because batteries deliver less total energy if discharged quickly). Assuming a 60Ah car battery, a C20 test would require a discharge current of 60/20 = 3 Amps. 3A x 12V = 36 Watts. So your discharger/tester would have to dissipate 36 watts for 20 hours. That's as much power as a typical stand fan, or three energy-saving lamps. A unit that could do that would need quite a bulky heatsink to dissipate that much heat - about the size of a computer heatsink.
@Jeffery Richardson Amp hours (AH) is a terrible way to rate a starting battery, it is a capacity measurement, and has little to do with power output. What we need to know about starting batteries is quick burst output as they only provide current for a few seconds at most. Here in the U.S., we have always used CCA (cold cranking amps for freezing temperatures and lower) and CA (cranking amps for temps above freezing) It is more representative of power output (as a car only needs starting current for 1-2 seconds, because after startup the alternator provides ALL of the vehicle's current needs, as well as toping up the battery. It really is irrelevant how many hours it can output 1 amp) This tester is perfect for our U.S. measurements, been using it for years and absolutely love it. The internal resistance measurement is great because it is a direct indicator of the cell's age and lost output capability.
@@johnny0454 You are totally correct as this type of battery is not a deep(cycle) discharge battery and only really made for short high power discharge to start the vehicle and then be charged again by the vehicle. Deep discharge for a standard lead acid car battery is not good for the battery health and can cause permanent damage..
The display on mine is in an oriental language. Does anyone know how to get the display into English, please?
I know that the little lady on You Tube just presses the OK button and away she goes; but, mine doesn't do that. It just stays on Chinese or Japanese. Mine is more or less living up to my expectation of a Chinese product. I am not surprised at what has happened; but, for a while, I just hoped, that's all.
Easy to understand..
I bought one it is on its way.
What i can use batery 24 Volt ....?
24v not for car..... 24v for lorry
Bought two for a friend and his complaining of inconsistent reading.... How do I solve the issue
Better understand the tests you are carrying out. For instance: CCA (cold cranking amps) is a standard that measures battery cold crank ability at 0 degree Centigrade, therefore, tests carried out in a 18C workshop will appear over inflated because of the way impedance changes with temperature. Also note residual charge readings (the way a battery holds on to an unusually high voltage reading for several hours after charging) best load the battery for 20 seconds or so (leave the head lights on) before doing the test.
GOD PLZ this 2.0TDI IS DYING!
Its a TSI.....
B. Buster sticker is from tsi... Inside is 2.0tdi, cant You hear it?
@@martindonze5214 good info, however I'd like to add that a person should use the CA (cranking amps) rating for battery temps above freezing, only use CCA (cold cranking amps) if the battery itself is below freezing.
Chinese English is unconvincing, so is the confusing Lancol tester.