Why don't you? Just get one and start having fun! At our age, we don't have time to do things we don't like. The little time there is left should be spent on things we would love to do.
That machine you Have is a Singer 15. This should help you find bobbins. The knob you looped your thread around is the stitch length regulator. To "Back stitch" you turn the goods around and go over the stitches a few stitches. Good luck with your old girl! I use a Singer 66 that's the same era as your 15.
Another method for the back stitch is to lift the sewing foot, move the fabric back to the beginning and start stitching again so that you stitch the first stitches twice. And please never connect two bobbin threads with a knot 😮.
You should use clear machine mineral oil rather than whatever that was that you were using. Also, if you are going to run the machine without fabric under the foot, lift the foot so that the feed dogs aren't running against the foot. This keeps the feed dogs sharp and better able to feed the fabric.
AAHHH memories. this machine is very close to the one that I used in 7th grade Home Ec class. Because I could already sew with an electric machine and by letting me use the treadle my teacher freed up a machine for one of the girls, yes we were separated at that time, to use the electric. I even used a treadle when I made curtains for my first born daughters window curtains in the mid 70s.
I own 15 treadle sewing machines, some in the cabinet and some are portable in a wood case 🥰 I love sewing on them, it's very relaxing 🥰 Thanks for your video showing how to fix things 😘
@@JesusisKing222 a treadle machine is easier to use than a hand crank machine (yes, I have both). The treadle leaves both of your hands free to work with while a hand crank machine uses your right hand to “power” it only allowing your left hand to guide your fabric, etc. Hope this was helpful 😊
@@vaccavo Wow! I thought I was bad owning 30, 26 of which are vintage Singer machines. My oldest is a 1923 Singer hand-crank 99 and my newest is a 2005 Brother.
Great job! Glad to see a young man sewing. My grandfather did the sewing for his family from the time he was big enough to operate the treadle as his mother had health issues that made it difficult for her. I also had both of my sons (now in their 40’s) take home economics classes in jr high school so they could sew. Love your video.
I was lucky enough to find one of these fine girls from the original family that originally purchased it in 1917. It was well cared for and for the life of me I can’t believe they would part with it. I call the workings of it complicated simplicity. Luckily we have the internet to help us maintain and hopefully learn how to use these wonderful machines. It’s interesting the “how to sew,” books of this period show the main sewing was still showing how to sew by hand. Good luck, it will be fun to see your journey through learning how to sew with it.
5:18 "Thankfully I remembered which parts get oiled" he says, oiling the threaded accessory mounting holes. You don't actually have to remember, of course, the manuals for these machines are still easy to find online in scanned PDF form. Btw, using a yellow oil like you haven't isn't a great idea. Proper sewing machine oil is clear and non-staining, so you don't have to worry as much about it dripping onto a workpiece that you're sewing and leaving a mark. Class 15 bobbins are the most common style of bobbin you'll find, and you can also substitute modern plastic SA156 bobbins. You're missing a small circular piece of felt around the bottom of the spool pins on top of the machine to keep the spools from chewing through the paint. They're very cheap and highly recommended (or you can make one yourself, of course) Your threading is incorrect. The 15 class has one of the most confusing thread paths though, so it's easy to get it wrong. The thread comes down into the tension discs and wraps counterclockwise, behind both the thin checkspring and the thick bent wire bracket. Then you come down over the front of the bent wire bracket and hook under the checkspring, then you go up through the takeup lever and down through the thread guides leading to the needle. You may or may not find it more comfortable to use both feet on the treadle, with your right foot placed slightly further forward on the pedal than your left. You can then rock the treadle back and forth by pushing down with either foot in an alternating pattern.
It's beautiful! Your thread tension will be a lot more even if you put little pieces of felt(say, 2cm x 2cm) at the base of the spool pins. Just pop a hole in the center and put it over the pin.
I just bought a Singer 127k and after checking the serial number it's from 1873! Still sews like a charm. The only problem is I've run out of things to make!
Great job! You hit the lines on the paper best as possible 🙂. I just bought an old Singer sewing machine two days ago. Even it's a much younger one from 1965 and it's electric was much fun to get it from stuck and not working back to live. And the build quality is so much better than the modern cheap machines with lots of plastic in- and outside, thin sheet metal parts and stuffed with electronics! The old ones can easily last an other 100 years when getting some maintainance every now and than and they do a perfect job! I whish you much joy with your new, old machine! Many greetings from Germany!
You do a better job than some old men I've seen on youtube. You also need the oil bottle with the little straw for neater oiling without drips and runs. How do you loosen the tension on the belt after it's on???? Beautiful job you've done!
Enjoyed the previous restoration video and great to see the final result of all that work with the Machine functioning smoothly.It looks very similar to the series 66 Singer.Apparently back stitching is possible by pushing the back lever to the up position-lifting the foot and moving the fabric forward. Kind regards Aaron
I got the same one from my grandma :) I'm a tailor but at home I only work with the Singer, it can do everything, it just needs a lot of oil but I don't want any other one. I love it and I've subscribed to you ❤❤❤
I also use 2 feet on a treadle machine -- left foot fully on the pedal and toes of right foot on it also. Heel of right foot stays on the floor. Then, it's just left, right, left, right, etc. It's actually a very soothing rhythm. I have an antique White treadle machine that I hope to restore.
Very nice video. When you use a treadle you have to use both feet. One foot is forward from the other so that you use the pressure on your toes of one foot and the pressure if the heel of the other foot. The feet do not stay together but are one forward from the other. This gives ultimate control. To stop the machine instantly pinch the belt! Hope this helps.
You don't have it threaded correctly. The thread goes from the tension spring up to the take-up lever, down to the thread guide on face plate, to thread guide on needle clamp, then through the needle. Here's a really good video showing how to thread it in detail. ruclips.net/video/jT6McEgKwB4/видео.html You may also want to learn how to treadle with two feet, set at a diagonal on the pedal, for better speed and control.
I’m going to add to the great advice others are suggesting- use a spool of thread that is straight wound, as opposed to being cross wound. Use a thread stand for the cross wound spools.
@@JesusisKing222can you please clarify what you mean by a thread stand? Does it sit on the table instead of the machine? What would I look up to find one? Perhaps there’s a video you can link that shows it? Sorry for all the questions-I just purchased an old treadle machine to restore and am excited to sew with it in hopefully just a few weeks!
You might also move the thread spool further bach toward the handwheel & wrap the tread line once around the body of the machine. That way The spool will bounce less. And I only use my left foot, it's prescribed physical therapy for that leg!
Excellent content! I use to repair sewing machines. Free tip: The flat side of the needle goes opposite the last thread guide. So many "repairs" were replacing the needle being sure that the flat side of the needle went opposite the last thread guide.
Please forgive me if I am repeating what someone else has already said... It is best to raise the presser foot when running the machine if there is no fabric between the feed dogs and presser foot - this prevents wear and 'rough grooves' developing on the underside of the presser foot. You will also find a 'felt' under the spool of thread on the spool pin helps it feed the thread better. The spool pin at the handwheel end is probably the better one to use if you can. A 'stack wound' spool of thread works better on a vertical spool pin. For a cross-wound spool of thread you might like to try something that allows your thread to feed off the top of the spool, or 'converts' the vertical pin to a horizontal one. As for the treadling and stitching - they both looked great, and the machine is running very nicely indeed!
The stitches look like they need the tension altering. I have used my grandmother's machine since I was 7 and I am now 71, 61 years of use and my machine is still working beautifully.
I think the 6 months or so taken to refurbish this piece was time well spent. That should last you a very, very long time. A friend from school was taught to use one of these machines by his grandmother. He tailored his own shirts and trousers; he did a very nice job too.
I think the unused notch on the front top of the nose face plate is for the thread when you're loading the bobbin...that way it won't run across the paint like you had it.
Oh this is really helpful! I've recently gotten my hands on a 1927 singer machine and this helped me so much in restoring it to functioning order again and i'm just in love with it :))
My grandfather was a sewing machine repairman. he left several working copies of 8 in working order and 10 more that he did not have time to put in order . the oldest one is 170 years old , it is not working . the oldest worker was born in 1890 . I was very tired when I tried to put it in working order after 30 years of downtime and considering that my grandfather did not pass on his skills. I can sew on them and can carry out basic repairs, but I can't compare with the master.
To sew backwards, just pull up the presser foot lever up (while the wheel is still spining) and slide the fabric backwards; to continue forwards, just drop the food back down. It takes some practice, but it only works on treddle machines because you need a free hand to lift the lever and move the fabric backwards simultaneously. Otherwise, you can stop the needle in the fabric and do a 180 turn and stitch normally.
Two places I didn't see you oil. One. A drop of oil on the bobbin carriage track. Two. The thread take-up lever bearing on the side of the main shaft. There's a groove it rides in.
i also have a vintage singer 15. but mine is a 15k88 model with an after market motor on it (also vintage) my singer specifically is a 1947 so 27 years newer!
It looks like the thread tensions are a bit balanced tighter on the needle than the bobbin side. It might be because of using the paper. The stitches should intertwine between the two layers being sewn.
I learned how to sew on a treadle sewing machine when I was eight years old.. I have owned one for the past 50 years.. You have better control of the machine if you learn to use both feet on the pedal.
At 9:37 it isn't quite threaded correctly, the thread needs to go from the tension disks, around that curved arm just above them, back down into the tension spring, and only then up to the take-up arm and back down through the thread guides to the needle. Correcting this should result in more consistent stitch tension
I can't seem to get the treadle to engage the needle. I've checked the length of the cord, it is neither too long or too short. I trun the upper wheel by handle and the needle goes up and down but it doesn't if I try to pedal. What's wrong?
Quite difficult (and expensive) to get one in good condition I would recommend finding one that is not too bad and restoring it ! I have a whole series where I restored mine !
❤I have buy one too this one beautiful but I miss pedaal it can use electric and just foot manual\my other problem is the bobbins I have one which small classic but that don't fit too..and I dont know ? Type serial this Singer vintage sewing machine?? There is numbers but those for Parts...and to adjust stitches, I must discover that later if I buy the pedaal..thank you for showing and sharing..this sewing machine..🎉
Using both feet on the treadle, one further forward than the other and rather than pressing up and down, you need to do a kind of rocking motion using your heels and toes. Once you get it down you will really feel it flow and your control will improve enormously, and you should never get the accidental backwards stitch that is so frustrating.
Your top thread tension seemed to be too tight, but perhaps you would have better results on fabric. I use a 1910 Singer Red Eye and it sews as beautifully as the day it was manufactured. I’ve made several quilts with it.
Anti Reverse for the treadle can be added, I have considered making something myself Search for = Adding a ratchet stop / brake to a treadle there is an article on Victorian Sweatshop Forum back in 2016 Brake Ball for most Willcox & Gibbs and Singer 24 Chain Stitch Treadle Sewing Machines Keeps machine from sewing backwards. Interesting how just a rubber ball can do the job I am working on a Singer 13k from 1882 and my other treadle is a 201k in a great looking cabinet all the best
I think you did really well not an easy technique to master treadle sewing. I have a treadle, hand crank & electric sewing machines all have their own charms!
I recently got a 1920's Singer treadle sewing machine from my husband; We re-oiled it and bought a new leather belt and put it on the sewing machine. But now my question is;How tight is this belt around the sewing machine? I get the feeling that I have to push the pedal really hard and sometimes it suddenly stops. Do you know what I can do?
The belt should be just tight enough that it turns the flywheel and handwheel without 'slipping'. Any tighter than that just means 'heavier treadling' and working harder than necessary for both you and the machine. The machines are tough, you won't break or really hurt them by having the belt too tight - but everything works better if it isn't. You might have enough space at the ends of the belt to make another hole on one or both ends to loosen it a bit. You can also try 'stretching' the belt a little by removing it from the machine, and holding it as if you are using a towel to dry across your back/shoulders, then pulling each end with your hands.
For cheap practice fabric I go to goodwill and just pickup some old clothes. Ain't much you can't find there. That and vinyl or Eva foam for leather duplication. It won't get the resistance right, but it will get the rest.
Nice machine. Hopefully, you've done some research on how to treadle. You are not demonstrating the right technique in this video. It's not difficult. Just requires practice to get used to. You need to use both of your feet. That is why the foot treadle is wide. Right foot forward and left food slightly back. Provides control.
I have a certificate of ownership relating to a Singer machine dated 1901 which cost stg 8 -7-6d. the number is 14010318 style 7S HO J something D . Any views out there on where it may have been made ...it was purchased by a lady in midlands Ireland one Sarah J Harris.
As others have mentioned, your machine oil is old and cruddy. Oxidated or something. The oil should be clear. I have read that light is its enemy, so I made a little opaque cover for my oil bottle. Just in case you need a small project to sew!
What are you oiling with? It’s brown ish. Don’t use that, you’re making yourself big problems. Fresh clear sewing machine oil is what you need - old yellowing oil gums up the machine. Other products either gum up the works down the line or stain your fabric. Also, that oil gets aerosolized as you hunch over the machine breathing it. Car products are carcinogenic. This is in your living space. 1 + 1 is two. If that’s granny’s old oil pitch it. Hydrocarbons have a clock and spoil like milk. That’d be past ready for the trash.
Small error with bobbin. Your bobbin case is different than the bobbin case shown in the manual that you show in your video. The slanted slot goes the other way. Thus the bobbin should unwind the other way. The bobbin thread always is to reverse direction when going through the slot. Thus your bobbin should unwind clockwise CW, not CCW.
Good demo. Buy you should have replaced the the bobbin tire. ,,remove the hand wheel,,oil the bushing,,,the thread you are using. Use only 100 percent polyester thread,,,,,you did not show which side the flat of the needle goes,,in or outside,,,you must test a machine with fabric,,two pieces. And on the final chech. You must fold the fabric,,,to 6 plies,,as to make sure the machine can pass over bumps,,,,use SEWING MACHINE OIL CLEAR COLOUR ONLY,,,,to get the correct length of the belt. You have to install the belt around the flywheel. ,,over the top in the hand wheel,,pull tight,,then cut. For proper tension. Or you could have installed a Motor Kit ,with a light and make the machine to work by power. Don’t ask me how I know so much. All for your information and guidance,,,not many young people doing this Sewing Machine Technician job anymore. Good luck. Ask me anytime about repairing,,,Mike Tex
You should NOT run the machine with the presser foot down...two things...the feed dogs will scratch the presser foot...and the foot can DULL the feed dogs...If you wish to run the machine with the presser foot DOWN be sure to have fabric in . Its ok to run the machine without fabric IF you keep the presser foot raised.
You skipped all the important steps!!! which holes the oil, How to thread the machine, and the bobbin threading set up! Everything else is the same as a modern sewing machine
It appears that your bobbin is a flat faced one, based on the bobbin holder, the machine would work better with a curved face bobbin. To back stitch without turning your project, just lift the needle and the presser foot and physically move your project seam back a few stitches then continue as usual. Looks wonderful!
Your content slays 🙏🏽🤩
Thanks ! More is coming soon!
Everyone who restores an antique sewing machine deserves a special reward.
As a teenager, I taught myself how to machine-sew with a treadle Singer sewing machine. 50 years on, I'd love to get one.
Its definitely an awesome experience, if your up for it you can restore one, its not that complex, just takes some time :)
Why don't you? Just get one and start having fun! At our age, we don't have time to do things we don't like. The little time there is left should be spent on things we would love to do.
There's lots of vintage Singers out there, they are very durable. Most consumable parts like belts are still available.
I was 9 when mom taught me to sew on her treadle machine. I’ve continued to sew. I’m 67.
That machine you Have is a Singer 15. This should help you find bobbins. The knob you looped your thread around is the stitch length regulator. To "Back stitch" you turn the goods around and go over the stitches a few stitches. Good luck with your old girl! I use a Singer 66 that's the same era as your 15.
Thanks for the advice !
Another method for the back stitch is to lift the sewing foot, move the fabric back to the beginning and start stitching again so that you stitch the first stitches twice. And please never connect two bobbin threads with a knot 😮.
@@ausnein7139Yes most defnetly don't knot the bobbin thread! as for that way I need to try that too!
I've had good luck lifting the presser foot slightly and pushing the material back while the machine still stitches.
Well done, I have an old treadle machine and a hand crank which need attention. Your video was most interesting, thank you.
You should use clear machine mineral oil rather than whatever that was that you were using. Also, if you are going to run the machine without fabric under the foot, lift the foot so that the feed dogs aren't running against the foot. This keeps the feed dogs sharp and better able to feed the fabric.
Thanks for the advice, it was machinist oil, a bit old though... Haha
AAHHH memories. this machine is very close to the one that I used in 7th grade Home Ec class. Because I could already sew with an electric machine and by letting me use the treadle my teacher freed up a machine for one of the girls, yes we were separated at that time, to use the electric. I even used a treadle when I made curtains for my first born daughters window curtains in the mid 70s.
Thanks for sharing
I own 15 treadle sewing machines, some in the cabinet and some are portable in a wood case 🥰 I love sewing on them, it's very relaxing 🥰 Thanks for your video showing how to fix things 😘
Thanks for watching ! Havi g 15 of them is a bit too much, no, haha?
I can’t decide if i want a Singer treadle or a Singer with a hand wheel next!
@@JesusisKing222 a treadle machine is easier to use than a hand crank machine (yes, I have both). The treadle leaves both of your hands free to work with while a hand crank machine uses your right hand to “power” it only allowing your left hand to guide your fabric, etc. Hope this was helpful 😊
I own 50+ sewing machines.
@@vaccavo Wow! I thought I was bad owning 30, 26 of which are vintage Singer machines. My oldest is a 1923 Singer hand-crank 99 and my newest is a 2005 Brother.
Great job! Glad to see a young man sewing. My grandfather did the sewing for his family from the time he was big enough to operate the treadle as his mother had health issues that made it difficult for her. I also had both of my sons (now in their 40’s) take home economics classes in jr high school so they could sew. Love your video.
Thanks ! Most useful skill ever, never buying a bag/wallet/jacket again haha
On such a Singer Maschine, i made my first Shirt and repaired my Jeans, wenn i was a Teenager. Its fifty years ago and the maschine works still.
Thanks for sharing I plan to sew my first coat on this machine, stick around if you want to see that !
You should make a video about it.. Show how to use them.. The manuals are hard to find, after all these years..
Amazing how little has changed in layout and mechanism compared to modern machines.
This is true not many things are different, except the use of plastic, bearings and cogs the mechanism is the same
Looks like you did a good job on this restoration!
Thanks buddy !
I was lucky enough to find one of these fine girls from the original family that originally purchased it in 1917. It was well cared for and for the life of me I can’t believe they would part with it. I call the workings of it complicated simplicity. Luckily we have the internet to help us maintain and hopefully learn how to use these wonderful machines. It’s interesting the “how to sew,” books of this period show the main sewing was still showing how to sew by hand. Good luck, it will be fun to see your journey through learning how to sew with it.
Oh, and one more thing! I use both feet when I sew with my Singer!
Such a good point my leg got sore after 5 mins haha
I have heard several people say that using both feet, one forward from the other, adds control and reduces tiring.
5:18 "Thankfully I remembered which parts get oiled" he says, oiling the threaded accessory mounting holes. You don't actually have to remember, of course, the manuals for these machines are still easy to find online in scanned PDF form.
Btw, using a yellow oil like you haven't isn't a great idea. Proper sewing machine oil is clear and non-staining, so you don't have to worry as much about it dripping onto a workpiece that you're sewing and leaving a mark.
Class 15 bobbins are the most common style of bobbin you'll find, and you can also substitute modern plastic SA156 bobbins.
You're missing a small circular piece of felt around the bottom of the spool pins on top of the machine to keep the spools from chewing through the paint. They're very cheap and highly recommended (or you can make one yourself, of course)
Your threading is incorrect. The 15 class has one of the most confusing thread paths though, so it's easy to get it wrong. The thread comes down into the tension discs and wraps counterclockwise, behind both the thin checkspring and the thick bent wire bracket. Then you come down over the front of the bent wire bracket and hook under the checkspring, then you go up through the takeup lever and down through the thread guides leading to the needle.
You may or may not find it more comfortable to use both feet on the treadle, with your right foot placed slightly further forward on the pedal than your left. You can then rock the treadle back and forth by pushing down with either foot in an alternating pattern.
Never use 3-in-1 oil on a sewing machine. It is dirty.
Hi, pretty good accuracy. Congrats
Cheers !
nicely done on paper.....now for broadcloth or muslin ...I will say that the tension on your stitching looks spot on.
It's beautiful! Your thread tension will be a lot more even if you put little pieces of felt(say, 2cm x 2cm) at the base of the spool pins. Just pop a hole in the center and put it over the pin.
Yes.
I just bought a Singer 127k and after checking the serial number it's from 1873! Still sews like a charm. The only problem is I've run out of things to make!
First sewist ever to have that problem…
Study Victorian tailoring. Period machines are great for period clothes.
Great job! You hit the lines on the paper best as possible 🙂.
I just bought an old Singer sewing machine two days ago. Even it's a much younger one from 1965 and it's electric was much fun to get it from stuck and not working back to live. And the build quality is so much better than the modern cheap machines with lots of plastic in- and outside, thin sheet metal parts and stuffed with electronics! The old ones can easily last an other 100 years when getting some maintainance every now and than and they do a perfect job! I whish you much joy with your new, old machine! Many greetings from Germany!
Danke Schön, Ich hoffe deinen Nähmachine funktioniert gut ! Ich könnte nur ein bisschen Deutsch sprechen haha, Freundlichen Grüßen aus Ungarn :D
Wow! Very cool! Thanks!
You do a better job than some old men I've seen on youtube. You also need the oil bottle with the little straw for neater oiling without drips and runs. How do you loosen the tension on the belt after it's on???? Beautiful job you've done!
There is a little lever at the front that puts the belt aside and out of the flying wheel.
Enjoyed the previous restoration video and great to see the final result of all that work with the Machine functioning smoothly.It looks very similar to the series 66 Singer.Apparently back stitching is possible by pushing the back lever to the up position-lifting the foot and moving the fabric forward.
Kind regards
Aaron
Your first solution solves my problem. Thank you so so much!
Glad I could help ! Thank you for watching !
I know a few people who have a treadle sewing machine similar to yours and they love sewing with it better than using an electric sewing machine.
Ove that machine. They just don’t make them like that anymore. True quality. Made to last.
Spot on
You need to try an ‘80’s Toyota. It has seven stitches plus buttonhole on board and the cockroaches will be fighting over them kind after we’re gone.
Great video and yes you did a great job! Thank you. I can't wait to restore my old 1920 singer now.
I got the same one from my grandma :) I'm a tailor but at home I only work with the Singer, it can do everything, it just needs a lot of oil but I don't want any other one. I love it and I've subscribed to you ❤❤❤
I learned in a treadle machine. I still like it at times even though I have a computerized model now
I too want to get a programmable machine, Since I learned how to program cnc machines at uni, it would be dope if I could us it in my hobby as well.
I also use 2 feet on a treadle machine -- left foot fully on the pedal and toes of right foot on it also. Heel of right foot stays on the floor. Then, it's just left, right, left, right, etc. It's actually a very soothing rhythm. I have an antique White treadle machine that I hope to restore.
ooh great work, Hefesto. congratulations!
Use the spool holder post closer to the handwheel for a smoother top thread feed.
Very nice video.
When you use a treadle you have to use both feet.
One foot is forward from the other so that you use the pressure on your toes of one foot and the pressure if the heel of the other foot.
The feet do not stay together but are one forward from the other.
This gives ultimate control.
To stop the machine instantly pinch the belt!
Hope this helps.
You don't have it threaded correctly. The thread goes from the tension spring up to the take-up lever, down to the thread guide on face plate, to thread guide on needle clamp, then through the needle. Here's a really good video showing how to thread it in detail. ruclips.net/video/jT6McEgKwB4/видео.html You may also want to learn how to treadle with two feet, set at a diagonal on the pedal, for better speed and control.
Thanks for noticing! Two feet is a good idea, I got pretty sore after a while with just one haha :)
Good advice
I’m going to add to the great advice others are suggesting- use a spool of thread that is straight wound, as opposed to being cross wound. Use a thread stand for the cross wound spools.
@@JesusisKing222can you please clarify what you mean by a thread stand? Does it sit on the table instead of the machine? What would I look up to find one? Perhaps there’s a video you can link that shows it?
Sorry for all the questions-I just purchased an old treadle machine to restore and am excited to sew with it in hopefully just a few weeks!
You might also move the thread spool further bach toward the handwheel & wrap the tread line once around the body of the machine. That way The spool will bounce less. And I only use my left foot, it's prescribed physical therapy for that leg!
Very nice restoration, and neat sewing!
Excellent content! I use to repair sewing machines. Free tip: The flat side of the needle goes opposite the last thread guide. So many "repairs" were replacing the needle being sure that the flat side of the needle went opposite the last thread guide.
Please forgive me if I am repeating what someone else has already said... It is best to raise the presser foot when running the machine if there is no fabric between the feed dogs and presser foot - this prevents wear and 'rough grooves' developing on the underside of the presser foot. You will also find a 'felt' under the spool of thread on the spool pin helps it feed the thread better. The spool pin at the handwheel end is probably the better one to use if you can. A 'stack wound' spool of thread works better on a vertical spool pin. For a cross-wound spool of thread you might like to try something that allows your thread to feed off the top of the spool, or 'converts' the vertical pin to a horizontal one. As for the treadling and stitching - they both looked great, and the machine is running very nicely indeed!
Wow, thanks for the many tips, will be sure to use them !
"The spool pin at the handwheel end is probably the better one to use if you can." The longer feed reduces jerkiness.
Currently restoring a Singer 128 treadle (shuttle bobbin) with the Egyptian decal and a hand crank in addition to the regular treadle.
The stitches look like they need the tension altering. I have used my grandmother's machine since I was 7 and I am now 71, 61 years of use and my machine is still working beautifully.
Yeah, I need to do more experiments on the stitching tension for sure, thanks !
@@hefestodesign Clean the tension pressure plates with 409.
I think the 6 months or so taken to refurbish this piece was time well spent. That should last you a very, very long time. A friend from school was taught to use one of these machines by his grandmother. He tailored his own shirts and trousers; he did a very nice job too.
Thanks ! For sure it is a machine that was designed for generations to use.
I think the unused notch on the front top of the nose face plate is for the thread when you're loading the bobbin...that way it won't run across the paint like you had it.
Thanks for the demonstration. They don"t make machines like this one anymore.
Too bad right ? Thanks !
LOL! I am not the first here... but the feeddogs are literally eating the presser foot!! 🤪🤪
Oh, thats not good, will pay more attention next time, thanks for the input :D
@@hefestodesign I thought you had already bought a real industrial machine for sewing heavy materials :-) THis one is good, but not mighty :)
Oh this is really helpful! I've recently gotten my hands on a 1927 singer machine and this helped me so much in restoring it to functioning order again and i'm just in love with it :))
My grandfather was a sewing machine repairman. he left several working copies of 8 in working order and 10 more that he did not have time to put in order . the oldest one is 170 years old , it is not working . the oldest worker was born in 1890 . I was very tired when I tried to put it in working order after 30 years of downtime and considering that my grandfather did not pass on his skills. I can sew on them and can carry out basic repairs, but I can't compare with the master.
good job!
Thanks!
Как прекрасно, что поколение хранит религии родителей! Супер!
Its not just tradition its quality as well :D Nice to hear people are listening in from all over the world !
To sew backwards, just pull up the presser foot lever up (while the wheel is still spining) and slide the fabric backwards; to continue forwards, just drop the food back down. It takes some practice, but it only works on treddle machines because you need a free hand to lift the lever and move the fabric backwards simultaneously. Otherwise, you can stop the needle in the fabric and do a 180 turn and stitch normally.
Two places I didn't see you oil. One. A drop of oil on the bobbin carriage track. Two. The thread take-up lever bearing on the side of the main shaft. There's a groove it rides in.
I've got one just like that (1924). It belonged to my grandma. Termites have attacked the top lid. It didn't require any restoration though.
cool work :)
I'm struggling to have coordination and find the right pace with my machine that is a bit older than this. Any tips/advice?
perfect job !
i also have a vintage singer 15. but mine is a 15k88 model with an after market motor on it (also vintage) my singer specifically is a 1947 so 27 years newer!
It looks like the thread tensions are a bit balanced tighter on the needle than the bobbin side. It might be because of using the paper. The stitches should intertwine between the two layers being sewn.
I learned how to sew on a treadle sewing machine when I was eight years old.. I have owned one for the past 50 years.. You have better control of the machine if you learn to use both feet on the pedal.
Great job on this machine! One note: the old thread should be removed, and not layered.
At 9:37 it isn't quite threaded correctly, the thread needs to go from the tension disks, around that curved arm just above them, back down into the tension spring, and only then up to the take-up arm and back down through the thread guides to the needle. Correcting this should result in more consistent stitch tension
I have almost the same machine.
How do I know what size needles it can use?
I can't seem to get the treadle to engage the needle. I've checked the length of the cord, it is neither too long or too short. I trun the upper wheel by handle and the needle goes up and down but it doesn't if I try to pedal. What's wrong?
كيف احصل على ترابيزة ماكينة الخياطة مثل هذه
Quite difficult (and expensive) to get one in good condition I would recommend finding one that is not too bad and restoring it ! I have a whole series where I restored mine !
❤I have buy one too this one beautiful but I miss pedaal it can use electric and just foot manual\my other problem is the bobbins I have one which small classic but that don't fit too..and I dont know ? Type serial this Singer vintage sewing machine?? There is numbers but those for Parts...and to adjust stitches, I must discover that later if I buy the pedaal..thank you for showing and sharing..this sewing machine..🎉
❤ Thanks
Thank You!
Using both feet on the treadle, one further forward than the other and rather than pressing up and down, you need to do a kind of rocking motion using your heels and toes. Once you get it down you will really feel it flow and your control will improve enormously, and you should never get the accidental backwards stitch that is so frustrating.
Well done lov 🙂
Are the needles hard to find?
Your top thread tension seemed to be too tight, but perhaps you would have better results on fabric. I use a 1910 Singer Red Eye and it sews as beautifully as the day it was manufactured. I’ve made several quilts with it.
I have one, but what I still don’t know is what are the holes underneath the drawer’s are? It’s not for a little key is it?
Many of the cabinets do have a small key for locking drawers.
Anti Reverse for the treadle can be added, I have considered making something myself
Search for = Adding a ratchet stop / brake to a treadle
there is an article on Victorian Sweatshop Forum back in 2016
Brake Ball for most Willcox & Gibbs and Singer 24 Chain Stitch Treadle Sewing Machines Keeps machine from sewing backwards.
Interesting how just a rubber ball can do the job
I am working on a Singer 13k from 1882 and my other treadle is a 201k in a great looking cabinet
all the best
Are you familiar with a Baer & Rempel Phoenix 229? I can’t find any information on it.
I think you did really well not an easy technique to master treadle sewing. I have a treadle, hand crank & electric sewing machines all have their own charms!
I recently got a 1920's Singer treadle sewing machine from my husband; We re-oiled it and bought a new leather belt and put it on the sewing machine. But now my question is;How tight is this belt around the sewing machine? I get the feeling that I have to push the pedal really hard and sometimes it suddenly stops. Do you know what I can do?
The belt should be just tight enough that it turns the flywheel and handwheel without 'slipping'. Any tighter than that just means 'heavier treadling' and working harder than necessary for both you and the machine. The machines are tough, you won't break or really hurt them by having the belt too tight - but everything works better if it isn't. You might have enough space at the ends of the belt to make another hole on one or both ends to loosen it a bit. You can also try 'stretching' the belt a little by removing it from the machine, and holding it as if you are using a towel to dry across your back/shoulders, then pulling each end with your hands.
For cheap practice fabric I go to goodwill and just pickup some old clothes. Ain't much you can't find there.
That and vinyl or Eva foam for leather duplication. It won't get the resistance right, but it will get the rest.
Does the machine sew without electricity ?
Yes. The power is provided by the action of the Treadle.
My grandmother was still making clothes on one of these in the 80s. She never liked the electric motor version.
You are doing a good job, however it looks like the thread tension on the bobbin is too tight.
Nice machine. Hopefully, you've done some research on how to treadle. You are not demonstrating the right technique in this video. It's not difficult. Just requires practice to get used to. You need to use both of your feet. That is why the foot treadle is wide. Right foot forward and left food slightly back. Provides control.
I have a certificate of ownership relating to a Singer machine dated 1901 which cost stg 8 -7-6d. the number is 14010318
style 7S HO J something D . Any views out there on where it may have been made ...it was purchased by a lady in midlands Ireland one Sarah J Harris.
When i turn around clothes i got mess sewing cable
As others have mentioned, your machine oil is old and cruddy. Oxidated or something. The oil should be clear. I have read that light is its enemy, so I made a little opaque cover for my oil bottle. Just in case you need a small project to sew!
What are you oiling with? It’s brown ish. Don’t use that, you’re making yourself big problems. Fresh clear sewing machine oil is what you need - old yellowing oil gums up the machine. Other products either gum up the works down the line or stain your fabric. Also, that oil gets aerosolized as you hunch over the machine breathing it. Car products are carcinogenic. This is in your living space. 1 + 1 is two.
If that’s granny’s old oil pitch it. Hydrocarbons have a clock and spoil like milk. That’d be past ready for the trash.
Small error with bobbin. Your bobbin case is different than the bobbin case shown in the manual that you show in your video. The slanted slot goes the other way. Thus the bobbin should unwind the other way. The bobbin thread always is to reverse direction when going through the slot. Thus your bobbin should unwind clockwise CW, not CCW.
Fixed my 100 year old sewing machine with my phone sim card tool. 🤣😂
❤❤❤❤
Good demo. Buy you should have replaced the the bobbin tire. ,,remove the hand wheel,,oil the bushing,,,the thread you are using. Use only 100 percent polyester thread,,,,,you did not show which side the flat of the needle goes,,in or outside,,,you must test a machine with fabric,,two pieces. And on the final chech. You must fold the fabric,,,to 6 plies,,as to make sure the machine can pass over bumps,,,,use SEWING MACHINE OIL CLEAR COLOUR ONLY,,,,to get the correct length of the belt. You have to install the belt around the flywheel. ,,over the top in the hand wheel,,pull tight,,then cut. For proper tension. Or you could have installed a Motor Kit ,with a light and make the machine to work by power. Don’t ask me how I know so much. All for your information and guidance,,,not many young people doing this Sewing Machine Technician job anymore. Good luck. Ask me anytime about repairing,,,Mike Tex
These machines were obviously not designed for use with artificial fibers. The Simanco company recommended the use of mercerized cotton.
Hai fatto un passaggio sbagliato col filo. La parte della molla col ferretto che si muove in alto e in basso.
You should NOT run the machine with the presser foot down...two things...the feed dogs will scratch the presser foot...and the foot can DULL the feed dogs...If you wish to run the machine with the presser foot DOWN be sure to have fabric in . Its ok to run the machine without fabric IF you keep the presser foot raised.
Zinger
dont run the machine with the presser foot down, it caused damage to the presser foot and teeth
You skipped all the important steps!!! which holes the oil, How to thread the machine, and the bobbin threading set up! Everything else is the same as a modern sewing machine
It appears that your bobbin is a flat faced one, based on the bobbin holder, the machine would work better with a curved face bobbin. To back stitch without turning your project, just lift the needle and the presser foot and physically move your project seam back a few stitches then continue as usual. Looks wonderful!
Thanks for the asvice I eill try it out !
says to @@hefestodesign : I disagree. The domed bobbins are for 66 class machines. This one is more like a 15.
@@andyruina Yep. Class 15 bobbins are flat faced. 66s are domed. They are not compatible. Switching is not an option.