I spent 4hrs. in county jail, because I had a home-made one-man brake bleeder, the sheriff thought the bottle and hose was a makeshift meth lab/bottle.
Try a 1962/63 Ford F100 3 speed manual with nothing boost assets. Not steering, breaks or clutch. With drum breaks all the way around. Fun times if you went into deep water and flooded your drums. Can you say 2 foot and emergency break to stop?
It takes roughly 4 hours, 30 beers, 2 auto parts store runs, and 1,763 cuss words to successfully achieve this. Edit: Some of yous need to learn what a joke is. I’m not stupid, I’m a mechanic for a living, It’s called humor. Thanks for 25k and counting
@@TheVanillaGorilla913 I have a car that has the same kind of brakes as in the video. It is easy. This video nor your comment mentions anything about a particular brand or model of a car.
Quick tip: don't do this because when you let off the pedal, the system actually creates a vacuum and you could be introducing air into your brake lines. There are tools that you can get from any parts store that use vacuum to extract brake fluid and avoid air getting back into the system. It's also cheaper to just grab a buddy (they don't even have to know about cars) to push and hold the brake pedal while you tighten and let off the pedal before you loosen the bleeder. Then have them press and hold. And repeat on all 4 brakes.
@@aaronsovey171 he didn't fill the bottle up with fluid though, so the initial bleed cycles are going to be sucking up air. Need to fill up the bottle 1/3 with clean flui.
except you won't let go of the pedal while the bleed screw is open 1- push the pedal slowly after the bleeder screw is opened,until pedal goes to floor,hold it there and tell your guy to close the screw 2- now you slowly and hard start pumping it couple times till pedal feel hard repeat until you see clear fluid then go the next wheel
Also, brake fluid eats paint so be sure to keep it off of any painted surfaces. Another thing is don’t let any dirt/debris get into your brake master cylinder/fluid.
One thing home boy failed to mention is you have to check the reservoir after every caliper. If you suck air in the lines you have to purge the system and restart the entire process. 😂
I think brakes are one of the easiest things to do on a car. The brake lines and fluids will be harder but easily doable with some RUclips and dedication.
Just a side note . Your cap on your Master cylinder ( I enlarged it ) says use Dot 3 brake fluid and you refilled with Dot 4 . Most mechanics agree that Dot 3 and 4 are ok to mix but just make sure to not use Dot 5 fluid in with Dot 3 . As far as your one man bleeder method , Ive been using it for over 40 years and it works great . I learned it from an old GM Service Manual back in the 1980s . As you mentioned , after you depress the brake pedal about 4 or 5 times , you ll probably need to add more fluid . I use an old Pace Salsa clear glass Jar so I can watch the air bubbles easier .
Listen I’m an ASE certified mechanic all you have to do is open your bleeder port. Pump the brakes three times or until the spongy feeling goes away. Then put a stick or 2/4 or something to hold your break down then close your bleeder. You should never open your master brake cylinder you just added air in there and that’s what causes brakes to get the spongy feeling.
Quick pinch itll do the job, ideally you want to be closing that nut in between pushing the pedal down and bringing it back up, making it an easy 2 man job, or a 4 hour job. Cool help non the less and its great to see more and more people teaching and learning to do their own work
Yeah I was going to say the same. He is letting air back into the system by not closing the bleeder each pump. It will never get a good pedal if you do it like that.
@@TheDeathCards with this method, when you keep pumping till only clean fluid comes out, also look for any tiny air bubbles which might have come out as well (it's best to use a clear rubber hose here)...as long as the end of the hose (in the bottle) is submerged in the fluid in the bottle, air should not be able to get sucked back in..if anything, old fluid will get sucked in instead. And to aviod that, simply use a longer hose, always keeping sure that the end is submerged in fluid. This method is for a one-man-job. But having 2 people do it is more efficient fr👌
Or a brake line is leaking or a master cylinder is is going out or a caliper is broken or your pads and rotors are extremely thin or there is something wrong with the ABS module or the previous mechanic didn’t lube the slide pins or an electrical parking brake is malfunctioning. Welcome to the world of car maintenance 🫠
For obvious reasons only take these steps if you also have this Miata. Not every car can be serviced this way and it is recommended that 2 people go through the actual bleeding process so that the system doesn’t suck up air bubbles after every pedal release.
Pro tip - get a sharpie and draw a line on your bleed valve continuing onto the calliper so when you go to tighten it again you just match up the line that you drew. That way you won’t have it too loose and die or tighten it too much and strip the coils (and die) from a leak
As long as the brake fluid was full when you did your new brake pad/shoes the level will indicate the life left on your brake pads, a faster and easier way to know the life of your brakes, Remember most of the time your parents have the best advice.
This will still leave your pedal a little spongy, but it's easy enough to do by yourself. If you have a friend to help, it'll be really rather quick to do. Doing this yourself will also cost you way less than taking it to the shop. Just make sure you tighten those bleeder nuts back on, otherwise your gonna have a bad time.
Tip from an actual mechanic, make sure you dont unscrew the bleeding screw too much because it can lead to leaking and more air being added to you're brake lines which is what this whole process is trying to eliminate, only unscrew it 1/4 of a full turn.
If your brake pedal is squishy, there is most likely a leak somewhere, it could also be an internal leak caused by bad brakemaster. Don't go cheap when it comes to your breaks and don't take any shortcuts too.
Not necessarily. What you should do is fill your bottle about halfway with brake fluid and the tube submerged in said brake fluid. Keep your hose and a higher angle than the bleed screw as well. It's a bit slower and uses a bit more brake fluid to get a good bleed since the bubbles aren't being jammed right up against the bleeder but it'll get the job done and done decently well. I've had to do it twice now.
In a professional setting never gravity bleed. 2 man bleed provides the firmer pedal. Also, if your brake pedal is spongey for no reason, you need to check for leaks. Caliper pistons, hoses, and lines. Then check for internal leaks at the master cylinder.
@@dewilliams2012 in a professional setting you don't want to gravity bleed because it takes a couple hours for it to completely work. A spongey brake pedal is not caused by leaks. Leaks cause a low brake pedal. Spongey brake pedals are caused by air in the line.
As someone at technician training at this moment, please check your brake split, this is all correct except on different brake splits this order may not specifically be correct. On cars with an electronic brake booster or brake by wure you may need to perform a brake bleed procedure using a software intrrface
This process is a lot easier if you have someone pumping the brakes for you while you check the fluid coming out of the caliper. Thank God my dad was there to help me the many times some shit O'Reillys caliper failed on my Taurus lol.
don't use this video! your have a car with no brakes. and cars don't just suck air in by Magic. if you have air in the lines you have a problem, and it ain't new brake fluid.
A few extra tips! The wrench size you need is 10mm and you also don't have to take the wheel off just crawl under the car and you'll see the brake bleeder valve... it'll save you about 10 mins if you keep the wheels on and it's just as easy
@@hotdogissub5012 It works if he puts brake fluid in there so it covers the hose because once he releases the pedal, if it sucks anything in it would be brake fluid rather than air.
The correct way without a specialty tool is to pump the brakes a couple times, then hold and the second person opens the valve for a second or two. Repeat this process until no air bubbles are seen and the fluid comes out in one solid uninterrupted flow. The steps in this short will cause air bubbles to get sucked back into the line and make the entire process moot.
The bleeder hose needs to arch above the bleeder screw so air does not get sucked in when you release the brake pedal. For one man bleeding. Thank Chris Fixx.
so why does he have to remove the old fluid and add new one before bleeding ? couldn't he just bleed the old fluid, close all the valves and then fill up the reservoir ?
@SIXSPEEDOFFICIAL just a tip. Next time you should use dot 3 brake fluid. The brake fluid reservoir cap says to only use dot 3. I noticed you were using dot 4. I dont know what problem that will cause, or if it will even cause a problem.
The fluid he's using will be fine to use just because it has a higher boiling point compared to dot 3 but chemically is still fairly identical. In this case it's actually okay that he's using dot 4. In fact it's okay to use a higher rated dot fluid on lower dot rated brake lines, but not the other way around. Just don't use dot 5 instead of dot 5.1 since it's composition is different to all the others
If you use a different kind of brake fluid than specified, it can cause the rubber seals in the master cylinder to swell and deteriorate caliper pistol and wheel cylinder boots.
You must have done it wrong this is how I did my brakes as a broke boy till I got myself a big compressor and a vacuum bleeder. The thing that can get you with this method is emptying the fluid reservoir.
Obviously you did it wrong. It works fine for anyone who actually knows what they are doing. Highschool kids are a bit dumb (I know this because I used to be one. 😂)
“You need to bleed your brake fluid.” “Are you sure? I mean, it’s already leaking all over my parking lot after I hit that curb last night.” “Yep, just bleed and replace the brake fluid, and you’ll be safe for the road! 🤡”
Remember the bleeder screw should crack loose by hand. If it feels super tight and you a lil rust or a lot. Use a torch first to crack it loose then wait for it to cool down. Also gives you the chance to see if any of the other 3 screws will break loose by hand. If not then repeat. Definitely don’t wanna snap a bleeder screw in your caliper.
Just a heads up, if you do bleed your brakes, when your crack the bleed screw don’t try to force it, the bleed screw is hollow so if it gets rusty and gets stuck, trying to force it will just brake the bleed screw, instead take a small hammer and tap your wrench back and forth until the rust has been broken up and the bleed screw comes loose with just a bit of force
If your brake fluid is low, you need break pads. the material worn off the pads caused the pistons to use more fluid to work and lower the level in the reservoir. But yes, this is HOW you bleed breakes.
Followed this tutorial, he never told me what to do with the cup of old break fluid, so i improvised and chugged it like it was a night with the boys 👍
Remember to have fluid in the bleeder bottle and the tube completely submerged in the fluid so when you released the brake pedal, air doesn't get back into the lines.
Just turn your front wheels all the way in opposite directions if you don’t wanna have too take off all your wheels . Your bleeder screw should be easily visible with a fully turned steering wheel
The way I like to do it is set a pan under all four bleed screws and loosen them so they start dripping. Over the next 20 mins I just keep adding fluid to the resivour until everything dripping is clear. I find it to be faster and easier to do without a friend.
Forgot to check to see if you need to replace the break pads.. top it off then if they need to be replaced you'll be overflowing the brake fluid which will cause rust to anything it touches..
Just remember to first check your brake pads first before doing this. Yes, you probably need to bleed the brake lines, but you more likely need new pads and/or rotors. It is also better to bleed your brakes after replacing brakes if they are indeed needed. Bleeding brakes without a pressure bleeder is also a lot safer and more efficient with a buddy because doing it by yourself can lead to the pedal still being spongy or, in some cases, too hard. Not saying this video is not informative, just reminding those who are less informed to stay safe and always double check your information.
Just pop the cap off and let it rest on the reservoir while the car is off and pump the brakes until as hard as a rock. After that put the cap back on and then start the car and the breaks should as good as new. I tried it on my 2005 bmw 530i and it worked perfectly. Save yourself the trouble
The bleeder bottle should be elevated, the bubbles will rise and you’ll A, probably be able to see when they stop, and B, use less brake fluid to bleed it.
Fun fact, I can say from personal experience this could also mean that your brake lines are disintegrating. Fun when you are driving and can no longer brake!
You failed to mention to have the hose up and make sure there are no more bubbles in the line, sometimes nipping-up them cracking loose a couple of time frees up some air. If you're going to try to educate people online, especially something as crucial as brakes, you need to be very precise and accurate!
For who dont know.. you dont HAVE to do this, as long as their is plenty of fluid don't got through the hell, this isnt a part of maintenance unless its needed
Abs cars should be done closest to furthest from master cylinder and if you let go of the pedal with the bleeder open you will introduce air into the system. Have a friend hold the pedal while you open the bleeder, then close bleeder and make friend pump the pedal. Repeat until fluid starts comming out clean
Awesome short man! Clear, informative, and correct demonstration of regular car maintenance that every driver should know. I've been doing this since I was a kid and helping my dad do it and it's saved me so much money.
There has to be fluid in the bottle and the end of the hose has to be under the fluid to ensure you don't introduce new air into the system. It's much easier to do it with a buddy than to use a one-man-bleeder the first time you try this. With a buddy pumping the brakes and you controlling the bleed valve you can make sure no new air gets in.
No don’t just rest the cap there.. get the bottle and just put in there upside down so it continues to feed the master with fluid and you don’t have to go check after each side you bleed. Also** you need to build pressure to actually get the air out of the system. Yes bad fluid can cause soft pedals but more than anything it’s the air in the system. You really need to 2 people doing it or the very least a bar you can wedge between the seat and pedal to hold the pressure. So pump up until you feel pressure hold release bleeder and this will force the air out. Repeat several times per wheel and enjoy a solid pedal.
doing it this way will most likely give you air in the system. buy a pressure vacuum bleeder so you don’t have to crack the bleeder everytime you press the pedal
![KAYTRANADA - Witchy (feat. Childish Gambino) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jGK3YVmGZ3Y/mqdefault.jpg)
That was the most concise and complete description of bleeding a brake system I’ve ever seen.
I spent 4hrs. in county jail, because I had a home-made one-man brake bleeder, the sheriff thought the bottle and hose was a makeshift meth lab/bottle.
imagine a kid fucking around with chemistry equipment getting the same treatment lmfao
ASAC Schrader taking no chances out here my man
More dumb cops. Hope you got a ton of money.
Ah the USA, the country you go to jail based on one frustrated cop's word...
@@catalindeluxus8545oh trust me, many countries sadly throw people in cages for much less. At least we can sue our government for their stupidity
Me driving a old datsun:
"if you are not using all your leg strength then you are are not slowing down"
me with my old saturn 😭
@@neptunewrld how old is old?
Try a 1962/63 Ford F100 3 speed manual with nothing boost assets. Not steering, breaks or clutch. With drum breaks all the way around. Fun times if you went into deep water and flooded your drums. Can you say 2 foot and emergency break to stop?
@@patrickdavis9566 2 foot and emergency break? damn, at that point you're almost doing the Flintstones thing bro. Hope to try it one day
the left foot trained by the clutch will easily press the brake into the floor
It takes roughly 4 hours, 30 beers, 2 auto parts store runs, and 1,763 cuss words to successfully achieve this.
Edit: Some of yous need to learn what a joke is. I’m not stupid, I’m a mechanic for a living, It’s called humor. Thanks for 25k and counting
Glad to know this is just part of the human experience
Never had any issues bleeding my brakes.
@@pokefan5022 good for you? You've never owned a shitbox and it shows.
@@TheVanillaGorilla913 I have a car that has the same kind of brakes as in the video. It is easy. This video nor your comment mentions anything about a particular brand or model of a car.
@@pokefan5022 I don’t think it’s that deep and I think he was just telling a simple joke
"who turned out the lights"? Reminds me of one of the best stories of doctor who
Wow you just brought back a very very old memory
🥶🥶😰
that episode hit so different
I'm not the only one :'>
Vashta nerada
i thought you said "first jack off the car"💀
I heard then suck up the car
KA-CHOW!
Car: 🥴🥴
I think I'll be paying someone else to do *that*
*me coming inside covered in motor oil and sweat* I think I did it right the stick shift went limp when I was done so I think we’re ready.
my friend who's a certified BMW mechanic taught me how to do this and he made the whole thing sound so sexual and he knew I would understand this 😂😂
hopefully he doesn't make his own bmw feel jealous when he's working on other vehicles
@@cachesolo1534 ok
"things we learn with pleasure we never forget."
@@cachesolo1534 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I like using the tool that sucks it out. 😏
Quick tip: don't do this because when you let off the pedal, the system actually creates a vacuum and you could be introducing air into your brake lines. There are tools that you can get from any parts store that use vacuum to extract brake fluid and avoid air getting back into the system. It's also cheaper to just grab a buddy (they don't even have to know about cars) to push and hold the brake pedal while you tighten and let off the pedal before you loosen the bleeder. Then have them press and hold. And repeat on all 4 brakes.
That's what the hose and bottle are for; with the fluid in the hose it won't draw air back through the bleeder when you let off the brake.
@@aaronsovey171 i thought so too
@@aaronsovey171 he didn't fill the bottle up with fluid though, so the initial bleed cycles are going to be sucking up air. Need to fill up the bottle 1/3 with clean flui.
The vacuum ones leak putting air in ur lines he's almost doing it perfectly other than removing old fluid not sure why he removed pretty clean fluid
Get a friend to help you out . There’s another tip . Just easier this way
Every single DAMN sentence sounds like a question 💀💀🤣🤣🤣🤣
Like a kid when they say are we there yet?
It's common to use a rising intonation when giving instructions. It's not JUST for asking questions.
He sounds really italian
Hes asking us to male sure hes doing it right
Fr 💀 lol
except you won't let go of the pedal while the bleed screw is open
1- push the pedal slowly after the bleeder screw is opened,until pedal goes to floor,hold it there and tell your guy to close the screw
2- now you slowly and hard start pumping it couple times till pedal feel hard
repeat until you see clear fluid then go the next wheel
Thank you my guy🤝🫡
Me after watching Chrisfix
Lol
😂same bro
ong
Fr
thats your daddy
I feel like my insurance company wouldn't want me watching this video
Also, brake fluid eats paint so be sure to keep it off of any painted surfaces. Another thing is don’t let any dirt/debris get into your brake master cylinder/fluid.
Most important rule: don’t forget to repeatedly check/fill the reservoir. If not you’ll get air in your line and you’ll will have to start over.
One thing home boy failed to mention is you have to check the reservoir after every caliper. If you suck air in the lines you have to purge the system and restart the entire process. 😂
he literally says “make sure that the reservoir does not run low”
I would just delete that comment cuh! He LITERALLY said it.
your pfp is awful, is that a trever henderson creation?
Pro tip, before touching the master cylinder, check that all 4 screws come loose, because if one doesn't, you'll find yourself in some trouble
The screws on each bleeder?
@@LetsLiveThriving yes, the bleeders can get really crusty
I ALWAYS THOUGHT BRO WAS LIKE A WHITE DUDE FROM A DIFFERENT COUNTRY LIKE GERMANY😭😭
Bro said part 21 like apu my guy whatchu mean???
Bro is living in Texas 😂I could tell right away from the blue windshield sticker
Sounds South African
@@paddaboi_ not even remotely close, why do Americans seem to default to "he's South African" when it's any accent they don't know (99% of them)
@@j4y167 Don't put that on all of us. I thought he sounded European. Lmao
If you have an Acura/Honda, follow your manual. EXAMPLE DC5 - front left, front right, rear right, rear left.
If your not familiar with working on cars I'd suggest not touching your brakes.
It's dangerous.
No they're not. They're dangerous if you don't work on them at all and twice as expensive to repair once they fail.
@@fragoutrambo6381 I didn't say don't get them checked. I said if you don't know what you're doing do not touch them!
I think brakes are one of the easiest things to do on a car. The brake lines and fluids will be harder but easily doable with some RUclips and dedication.
Brake jobs and oil changes are the gateway drug to DIY auto repair/modding
Worst advice ever! How do you expect me to stop my car? God forbid I ever drive downhill.
Just a side note .
Your cap on your Master cylinder ( I enlarged it ) says use Dot 3 brake fluid and you refilled with Dot 4 .
Most mechanics agree that Dot 3 and 4 are ok to mix but just make sure to not use Dot 5 fluid in with Dot 3 .
As far as your one man bleeder method , Ive been using it for over 40 years and it works great .
I learned it from an old GM Service Manual back in the 1980s .
As you mentioned , after you depress the brake pedal about 4 or 5 times , you ll probably need to add more fluid .
I use an old Pace Salsa clear glass Jar so I can watch the air bubbles easier .
Im watching this without having a car ..
You’ll be prepared
That's what real men do
Go try it on your neighbor’s car
@@tanjeeschuan4999 🤣🤣
@@tanjeeschuan4999exactly
Listen I’m an ASE certified mechanic all you have to do is open your bleeder port. Pump the brakes three times or until the spongy feeling goes away. Then put a stick or 2/4 or something to hold your break down then close your bleeder. You should never open your master brake cylinder you just added air in there and that’s what causes brakes to get the spongy feeling.
Quick pinch itll do the job, ideally you want to be closing that nut in between pushing the pedal down and bringing it back up, making it an easy 2 man job, or a 4 hour job. Cool help non the less and its great to see more and more people teaching and learning to do their own work
Absolutely it's also easier when you have someone else to yell at when working on the shit box. 👍🏼
A brick and a bleeding bottle like he has will work just fine.
Yeah I was going to say the same. He is letting air back into the system by not closing the bleeder each pump. It will never get a good pedal if you do it like that.
PUMP! HOOOOLD!
@@TheDeathCards with this method, when you keep pumping till only clean fluid comes out, also look for any tiny air bubbles which might have come out as well (it's best to use a clear rubber hose here)...as long as the end of the hose (in the bottle) is submerged in the fluid in the bottle, air should not be able to get sucked back in..if anything, old fluid will get sucked in instead. And to aviod that, simply use a longer hose, always keeping sure that the end is submerged in fluid.
This method is for a one-man-job. But having 2 people do it is more efficient fr👌
Or a brake line is leaking or a master cylinder is is going out or a caliper is broken or your pads and rotors are extremely thin or there is something wrong with the ABS module or the previous mechanic didn’t lube the slide pins or an electrical parking brake is malfunctioning. Welcome to the world of car maintenance 🫠
Ong they forgot about all this but that’s what these tik tok mechanics show people
He also massively overcomplicates the process he’s showing as well
This right here are some MORE of the reasons why your brake pedal is soft. Thank you for spreading awareness!!
Hey guys! Chrisfix here!
🤣🤣
chrisfix voice just pop up
That was actually very well explained for such a "short" video. Thanks man.
For obvious reasons only take these steps if you also have this Miata. Not every car can be serviced this way and it is recommended that 2 people go through the actual bleeding process so that the system doesn’t suck up air bubbles after every pedal release.
Is no one gonna talk about the celery flip at the start of the video???
Pro tip - get a sharpie and draw a line on your bleed valve continuing onto the calliper so when you go to tighten it again you just match up the line that you drew. That way you won’t have it too loose and die or tighten it too much and strip the coils (and die) from a leak
Be very careful with Brake Fluid! It will eat through your car's paint
As long as the brake fluid was full when you did your new brake pad/shoes the level will indicate the life left on your brake pads, a faster and easier way to know the life of your brakes,
Remember most of the time your parents have the best advice.
This will still leave your pedal a little spongy, but it's easy enough to do by yourself. If you have a friend to help, it'll be really rather quick to do. Doing this yourself will also cost you way less than taking it to the shop. Just make sure you tighten those bleeder nuts back on, otherwise your gonna have a bad time.
Tip from an actual mechanic, make sure you dont unscrew the bleeding screw too much because it can lead to leaking and more air being added to you're brake lines which is what this whole process is trying to eliminate, only unscrew it 1/4 of a full turn.
"Ayo who turned off the lights?"
Sometimes the simplest tasks take all day for some reason lmaoo😂
If your brake pedal is squishy, there is most likely a leak somewhere, it could also be an internal leak caused by bad brakemaster.
Don't go cheap when it comes to your breaks and don't take any shortcuts too.
where is the other guy? you can't bleed your brakes alonee 😭
Not necessarily. What you should do is fill your bottle about halfway with brake fluid and the tube submerged in said brake fluid. Keep your hose and a higher angle than the bleed screw as well. It's a bit slower and uses a bit more brake fluid to get a good bleed since the bubbles aren't being jammed right up against the bleeder but it'll get the job done and done decently well. I've had to do it twice now.
I bleed brakes by myself all the time.
@@josealcazar2922
In a professional setting never gravity bleed. 2 man bleed provides the firmer pedal. Also, if your brake pedal is spongey for no reason, you need to check for leaks. Caliper pistons, hoses, and lines. Then check for internal leaks at the master cylinder.
@@dewilliams2012 in a professional setting you don't want to gravity bleed because it takes a couple hours for it to completely work. A spongey brake pedal is not caused by leaks. Leaks cause a low brake pedal. Spongey brake pedals are caused by air in the line.
I love how he starts the video with quick fix when we all know this is nothing close too quick 😂
Can you please do a tutorial on how to change your blinker fluid. My blinkers are flashing funny.
As someone at technician training at this moment, please check your brake split, this is all correct except on different brake splits this order may not specifically be correct. On cars with an electronic brake booster or brake by wure you may need to perform a brake bleed procedure using a software intrrface
You should have somebody holding the brake pedal down at the final pump and then closing the bleed off valve, so no air is in the system
Good idea
But I thought if the hose submerged in the old oil on the other end of the line no air will be able to get into the valve
This process is a lot easier if you have someone pumping the brakes for you while you check the fluid coming out of the caliper. Thank God my dad was there to help me the many times some shit O'Reillys caliper failed on my Taurus lol.
The clear bleed hose should go uphill to the bottle to prevent air from entering the bleeder when you release the pedal.
You put fluid in the bottle and submerge the end of the tube
No. You don't want to release the pedal with the bleeder open. Either pressure bleed or gravity bleed if you don't have a 2nd person
Thank you so much for this. You have no idea how much I appreciate this video. I will use it!
Glad to help out!
don't use this video! your have a car with no brakes. and cars don't just suck air in by Magic. if you have air in the lines you have a problem, and it ain't new brake fluid.
Definitely dont let the reservoir run low or youll introduce air into the lines and have to bleed it all the way through again
A few extra tips! The wrench size you need is 10mm and you also don't have to take the wheel off just crawl under the car and you'll see the brake bleeder valve... it'll save you about 10 mins if you keep the wheels on and it's just as easy
Way easier with the wheels off. I'll take the extra time
@@michaelkaplan7618 hey you do you personally islts easier and more efficient for me to get under the car a do it but to each there own
If you need to bleed your brakes, it's probably because you're replacing your brake pads. But yeah, 10mm for foreign cars.
Id rather lose 10 minutes than have to climb under the car a bunch of times, which takes lots more time than just getting on a knee and leaning in.
"Quick fix"
"Ey yo who turned off the lights"?
What a nice way to put air in your brake system 😂
You're wrongly educated
@@hotdogissub5012
It works if he puts brake fluid in there so it covers the hose because once he releases the pedal, if it sucks anything in it would be brake fluid rather than air.
@@carlosmatatinoco4030 its only going to suck anything in from the master cylinder, so as long as theres fluid in the master cylinder air won't get in
@@carlosmatatinoco4030 that’s why he says make sure the master cylinder doesn’t go low, meaning keep adding fluid.
@@carlosmatatinoco4030 it’s just a home made one man bleeder it works.
The Miata looks like its saying...
Dayumm what's gonna happen to me
Yeah I mean bro understood the assignment but didnt quite execute it correctly
He says bleed the brakes but I’m watching with flush it 😢
The correct way without a specialty tool is to pump the brakes a couple times, then hold and the second person opens the valve for a second or two. Repeat this process until no air bubbles are seen and the fluid comes out in one solid uninterrupted flow. The steps in this short will cause air bubbles to get sucked back into the line and make the entire process moot.
they need to be teaching this in school
The bleeder hose needs to arch above the bleeder screw so air does not get sucked in when you release the brake pedal. For one man bleeding. Thank Chris Fixx.
You couldn’t have explained it more perfectly. Im a mechanic and this is exactly how it should be done
so why does he have to remove the old fluid and add new one before bleeding ? couldn't he just bleed the old fluid, close all the valves and then fill up the reservoir ?
@@rexnihilum7822 because if you don’t keep a constant volume of fluid from reservoir to the caliper you risk trapping air in the lines
@@Packend that’s not what he asked lol
@SIXSPEEDOFFICIAL just a tip. Next time you should use dot 3 brake fluid. The brake fluid reservoir cap says to only use dot 3. I noticed you were using dot 4. I dont know what problem that will cause, or if it will even cause a problem.
The fluid he's using will be fine to use just because it has a higher boiling point compared to dot 3 but chemically is still fairly identical. In this case it's actually okay that he's using dot 4. In fact it's okay to use a higher rated dot fluid on lower dot rated brake lines, but not the other way around. Just don't use dot 5 instead of dot 5.1 since it's composition is different to all the others
Brake fluid is backwards compatible, hes fine
Just wasting money for no reason. Dot 4 is almost double dot3
@@lkporter1989 not where I live. Dot 3 was more expensive
If you use a different kind of brake fluid than specified, it can cause the rubber seals in the master cylinder to swell and deteriorate caliper pistol and wheel cylinder boots.
And drink right after! The fluid has a nice taste.
Instructions unclear: I have now emptied all the blood in my siblings body and replaced it with windshield washer fluid.
Did this give them any extra horsepower?
Instructions unclear. Put steroids into my brake lines and now my truck is a decepticon
I did this in high school auto shop. My teacher tried to drive the car after. It had no brakes. This was you loose all your brakes 🤫
How did it end up?
You must have done it wrong this is how I did my brakes as a broke boy till I got myself a big compressor and a vacuum bleeder. The thing that can get you with this method is emptying the fluid reservoir.
Obviously you did it wrong. It works fine for anyone who actually knows what they are doing.
Highschool kids are a bit dumb (I know this because I used to be one. 😂)
bro thank you for the easy to understand and COMPLETE instructions for slow learners like me.
“You need to bleed your brake fluid.”
“Are you sure? I mean, it’s already leaking all over my parking lot after I hit that curb last night.”
“Yep, just bleed and replace the brake fluid, and you’ll be safe for the road! 🤡”
Remember the bleeder screw should crack loose by hand. If it feels super tight and you a lil rust or a lot. Use a torch first to crack it loose then wait for it to cool down. Also gives you the chance to see if any of the other 3 screws will break loose by hand. If not then repeat. Definitely don’t wanna snap a bleeder screw in your caliper.
People watching this, very important, don’t forget to replace your blinker fluid while you’re already at it, it can be easily overlooked
You can pour the old brake fluid into the blinker, as long as it has the correct color.
Just a heads up, if you do bleed your brakes, when your crack the bleed screw don’t try to force it, the bleed screw is hollow so if it gets rusty and gets stuck, trying to force it will just brake the bleed screw, instead take a small hammer and tap your wrench back and forth until the rust has been broken up and the bleed screw comes loose with just a bit of force
If your brake fluid is low, you need break pads. the material worn off the pads caused the pistons to use more fluid to work and lower the level in the reservoir. But yes, this is HOW you bleed breakes.
next can you show us how to replace blinker fluid?
Instructions unclear, my car started moaning.
Hey man can you do a tutorial for headlight fluid, my dads been saying I need to change it for a week and I have 0 clue
You don't really need to do it from far to near when bleeding. Bleeding works the same as long as you bleed all four.
Blinker fluid tutorial please
Why can’t ALL people post a how to this clear, effective, and efficiently
If you bleed it and it’s still squishy it’s time for a new master cylinder
Assuming you did it right and didn't just put more air in there
In newer cars it is usually the farthest wheel from the ABS module and not the master cilinder
Followed this tutorial, he never told me what to do with the cup of old break fluid, so i improvised and chugged it like it was a night with the boys 👍
It works really well as penetrating fluid and paint remover.
Remember to have fluid in the bleeder bottle and the tube completely submerged in the fluid so when you released the brake pedal, air doesn't get back into the lines.
My brake pedal was squishy because of seized calipers. Old fluid is not always the cause.
This was by far the most well done video about this. Thanks.
dont forget to replace your blinker fluid once every month
And the horn oil
Learning mechanics at college ❌
Learning mechanics on youtube ✅
This was a great, right to the point, and concise how-to video. Nice job and no complaints. 👍👍👍
song name :Midnight sun (ramzoid x hal walker) by zoid land. the album logo has a star with a face
ur a real one mate
Omg thank you I was so desperate
Just turn your front wheels all the way in opposite directions if you don’t wanna have too take off all your wheels . Your bleeder screw should be easily visible with a fully turned steering wheel
MAKE SURE that plastic tubing is TIGHT.. 3/16ths is hard to find, use fish tank aerator hose - it's cheap, and flexible. use a tiny zip-tie if needed.
The way I like to do it is set a pan under all four bleed screws and loosen them so they start dripping. Over the next 20 mins I just keep adding fluid to the resivour until everything dripping is clear. I find it to be faster and easier to do without a friend.
Forgot to check to see if you need to replace the break pads.. top it off then if they need to be replaced you'll be overflowing the brake fluid which will cause rust to anything it touches..
Just remember to first check your brake pads first before doing this. Yes, you probably need to bleed the brake lines, but you more likely need new pads and/or rotors. It is also better to bleed your brakes after replacing brakes if they are indeed needed. Bleeding brakes without a pressure bleeder is also a lot safer and more efficient with a buddy because doing it by yourself can lead to the pedal still being spongy or, in some cases, too hard. Not saying this video is not informative, just reminding those who are less informed to stay safe and always double check your information.
Just pop the cap off and let it rest on the reservoir while the car is off and pump the brakes until as hard as a rock. After that put the cap back on and then start the car and the breaks should as good as new. I tried it on my 2005 bmw 530i and it worked perfectly. Save yourself the trouble
Who turned out the lights gives me PTSD of the last time I had to do this alone 😭
The bleeder bottle should be elevated, the bubbles will rise and you’ll A, probably be able to see when they stop, and B, use less brake fluid to bleed it.
Fun fact, I can say from personal experience this could also mean that your brake lines are disintegrating. Fun when you are driving and can no longer brake!
You failed to mention to have the hose up and make sure there are no more bubbles in the line, sometimes nipping-up them cracking loose a couple of time frees up some air.
If you're going to try to educate people online, especially something as crucial as brakes, you need to be very precise and accurate!
For who dont know.. you dont HAVE to do this, as long as their is plenty of fluid don't got through the hell, this isnt a part of maintenance unless its needed
Abs cars should be done closest to furthest from master cylinder and if you let go of the pedal with the bleeder open you will introduce air into the system. Have a friend hold the pedal while you open the bleeder, then close bleeder and make friend pump the pedal. Repeat until fluid starts comming out clean
WIPE THE MASTER CYLINDER CAP OFF FIRST BEFORE YOU TAKE IT OFF. Brake line contaminants can be really bad so make sure to take proper precautions 👍🏼
Awesome short man! Clear, informative, and correct demonstration of regular car maintenance that every driver should know. I've been doing this since I was a kid and helping my dad do it and it's saved me so much money.
There has to be fluid in the bottle and the end of the hose has to be under the fluid to ensure you don't introduce new air into the system. It's much easier to do it with a buddy than to use a one-man-bleeder the first time you try this. With a buddy pumping the brakes and you controlling the bleed valve you can make sure no new air gets in.
No don’t just rest the cap there.. get the bottle and just put in there upside down so it continues to feed the master with fluid and you don’t have to go check after each side you bleed. Also** you need to build pressure to actually get the air out of the system. Yes bad fluid can cause soft pedals but more than anything it’s the air in the system. You really need to 2 people doing it or the very least a bar you can wedge between the seat and pedal to hold the pressure. So pump up until you feel pressure hold release bleeder and this will force the air out. Repeat several times per wheel and enjoy a solid pedal.
doing it this way will most likely give you air in the system. buy a pressure vacuum bleeder so you don’t have to crack the bleeder everytime you press the pedal
Closed end wrench is better for bleed screw, no need for a flare wrench
You forgot to mention the old brake fluid is brilliant for detailing paint jobs