Fixing a Husqvarna 125B Leaf Blower with a Misleading Issue
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- Опубликовано: 14 дек 2023
- After picking up this Husqvarna 125B (952711925) blower from an online ad, it has me chasing my tail to find the real issue it won't run correctly.
ZAMA C1Q-W37
Ignition Coil p/n: 585836101
troubleshooting, aftermarket carb, new fuel lines, test spark, verify timing, carburetor cleaning, carburetor troubleshooting, replace ignition coil
#smallengine #smallenginerepair #repair #troubleshooting #husqvarna #blower #leafblower #2stroke
Great clip! Have been there on the “is it the carb or coil” dilema. Thanks for taking the extra time to swap out the parts to eliminate a possible carb issue.
You did a nice job overall. Music not necessary. The gold in your video is listening to you and showing us tearing down and putting together. Especially the carb and purge bulb connections. You still had fuel delivery issues at the end. On the high end keep the throttle wide open while adjusting. If that doesn't work the fuel filter at this point is connected incorectly.
the fuel filter usually go on the larger line try swaping the lines
73 subscribers now. Thanks. Look forward to more from you
Hey . Thanks for your attention to details. I have been going in circles with the same issue with this husky. Thank you.
you're welcome! glad it helped out
The symptom strongly suggested a too lean adjustment on the high speed needle. Later on, your "quick prime" is not as useful as a not so quick prime.
Thank you for your insights!
What a pain chasing a bad coil.
Your little music overlay is unnecessary.
And, it's Husqvarna, not huskavarna. There's no A after the husk syllable. About 90% of utubers mispronounce it, though. 😂
I enjoy your videos. You are very patient. Thanks.
thanks! and you'll probably have to listen to me continually say it wrong as it's burned into my brain that way lol
on these small engines always start with 1-1/2 turns out on both high and low and then adjust as necessary.
One thing I’ve learned is that resistance within the ignition system goes up with increasing temperatures. So as the engine gets warm any faults in the ignition system may result in that engine bog you experienced. It’s always really tough to tell if it’s a carb or ignition issue in those cases. If it will reach high rpm but later bogs down it’s likely ignition from the heat buildup pushing it over the edge into ignition failure. If it refuses to rev regardless then it’s more commonly carb.
Awesome advice, thanks!
@@BackyardRepairsanytime! Love the channel
Dang it man it’s definitely the coil for me as well
My man just gave him his old blower piece by piece 😂
At the 18:45 minute mark, it would have become airborne and in my neighbor’s backyard. 😂😂😂
lol....
Heck I've got a Stihl line trimmer will all the same symptoms. Haven't changed the coil out yet but really tempted to now.
There is a resistance test you can do to verify a failed coil that may be worth double checking in your case. On this one, I think it was failing as the engine temp increased which wouldn’t necessarily show up as failed during that resistance test
As the other comment mentioned you may have leaned the carb a bit too much when it was cold. My Echo machines run like crap when cold but they run like perfect when warm. Beastmode does not begin until they have warmed up for 2-3min. If I leaned them out to run perfect when cold they would likely run like crap when warm. Echo recommends a 3min warmup time. For the record I have never owned or worked on a Husky so I know next to nothing about them.
Invest in a pair of hemi stats to fish out fuel lines and filters.
I'll have to add those to the list, thanks!
Check the resistance on that bad coil. You'll likely find it is way out of spec. That said, these Husqvarna 125B blowers are notorious for coming with cheap fuel lines. They deteriorate at about 2 years and gum up the carb. I'm on my second 125B (the first one died from old age). It is coming up on 2 years old so I just went and put in new fuel lines (quality ones). In the event the fuel lines and/or carb are messed up, there is an OEM kit you can get that includes the carb and fuel lines. I believe it is part #581798001 and/or 545081811. Not sure if those fuel lines will be any better than the the originals that came with the blower. Anyhow, the other lesson here is NEVER use an aftermarket carb. Always get OEM. Aftermarket carbs are horrible. Ask me how I know. Not the time to pinch pennies.
I still happened to have that bad coil laying around and ohm'd it out based on your comment, but it had seemingly normal readings (2.24 kohm on the high tension, and 6.23 Mohm on the primary). I'm thinking it was the cut in the coil wire that was jumping spark to the block since it was cut through to the conductor. The wire routing design does seem to cram that wire in against an edge on the plastic housing at a weird angle that would cause the chafing. I could try shrink tubing / electrical taping it and re-installing it for experiments-sake if I get the urge to test that theory in the future. Thanks for the p/n's for the OEM carb kit, I was a bit disappointed to see an aftermarket one when I cracked this open, but not surprised since I see more and more people default to amazon/eBay carb kits in my area instead of rebuilding the OEM. It's on my short list to have an OEM carb on hand for when this aftermarket one gives me issues, since I do like this blower.
I think I would have tested the coil with an ohm meter 1st.
then tapped the sh*t out of it.. I think it was just grounding on the cylinder
My blower leaks gas behind carb when I prime it runs good till gas runs out carb
I put new car and gaskets still does it look like it my leak from intake gasket what you think
A couple things come to mind to check.. first double check the fuel lines are in good shape and are routed to the correct barbs from tank to the carb, then that the gasket is not upside down or the wrong style (main concern is that it's not blocking the small impulse port on the cylinder side of the carb). The impulse port being blocked will still allow you to purge, get fuel into the carb, have it run for a short amount of time, and then die because the engine's pulse is not pumping fuel into the carb. If all those are good then I would suspect the intake rubber isolator is not tight, torn, or otherwise not sealing correctly between the carb and the cylinder. Hopefully this helps out!
I don't know what the hell you are doing but normally you supposed to use a business card not a. Hol bunch of papers to gap the coil nasty guide not the way to go
Thanks for you’re comment. While I can appreciate that convention is to use a business card, a single piece of paper is ~0.0035”. When folded three times as shown here it will net you ~0.011” which is midrange of Husqvarna’s recommendation of 0.008”-0.016”. Multiple ways to skin a cat to get the right thickness if you don’t have a big enough feeler gauge or a business card on hand.
What he did was perfectly fine.
@@joesixpack8305 yeah right I can see you don't have a clue what you doing eather 😂
@@joesixpack8305 I been fixing machines for years never seen that so I guess you and him are the only ones in the intire planet that practices that congratulations for nothing
@@RafaelHernandez-vf5jm Then explain why my leaf blower is 12 years old and still running like it is new. Now go cut my grass.