Step-by-Step Build Instructions for DIY Tilting Solar Mount: Prepare the Poles: Use 4x6 poles buried 3-4 feet in the ground. Ensure they are all straight and level to the top of each other. Use high-strength concrete to stabilize them. Install Bolts: Once the poles are in place, measure down two inches from the top of the post and put a center mark on that two-inch line. Drill a 1-inch hole, and insert an 8-inch-long 7/8 bolt. Repeat for each pole. Build the Frame: Cut treated 2x6 boards into 9-foot lengths. Use a saw to reverse crown the boards, so the high side is down in the center. Put two washers on the bolt, then slide the board onto the bolts. Add another washer to keep the board from locking to the wood. Repeat the process for the next board. Use blocks cut from 12-foot pieces to lock the boards together. Put two screws on each side and screw them together. Build the Rest of the Frame: Divide the nine-foot boards into three-foot sections, and measure and cut pieces for the inside blocks. Screw these in place to support the 2x6 boards. Mount the Solar Panels: Install hangers to hold the solar panels. Measure the outside edge to the center of the next block to ensure they are all the same length. Screw on the faceboard, then attach the cap board. Test the Mount: The completed mount can hold up to 12 large solar panels and cost around $360 to build. The mount can be easily tilted up and down, and it can be moved around to adjust for seasonal changes. Note: It is recommended to use ground contact pressure-treated lumber for this project. Also, make sure to adjust the mount monthly to ensure maximum power output.
I plan on doing the same thing but with the 2x6 boads with a 10% bias to the front side so there is a little more weight to the front/bottom of the rack...
Just finished my solar project and want to give a shout out for a great plan and thanks for your kind assistance! Several people including inspectors, utility workers, material suppliers, and trades people have openly admired the ground stand and wanted to know where I got the plan. Of course, I told them I got it from you. Here are few notes and comments. 1. I live on a wind-swept plain in the upper Midwest where the winters are long and cold and soil is sandy, so I used 12" x 48" Ceme-Tube Plastic Standard Concrete Forming Tubes to get below the frost line, minimize frost lock, and provide sufficient ballast. For additional stability, I also added a second row of posts four feet behind the main row (Picture 1). That, combined with 1 ½” vertical gaps and 1” horizontal gaps between the panels meets national code requirements that structures can withstand sustained winds of 106 mph (which, where I live, is expected once every 3,000 years). 😊Since installing, we have had wind gusts in the 40 to 50 mph range, but you would never know it from the panels as they haven't shown even the slightest movement under those conditions. 2. My panels are each 405 kW and measure 40” x 72” mounted horizontally three high in four vertical columns. At that size, I was pushing the span limits of the wood framing and getting slight sag on the outside edges, so I slightly modified the original plan and mounted the four outside fascia boards on the inside with hangers lined up flush with the front of the struts. Then, I went back and added reinforcing boards on the outside (Pictures 2 and 3). 3. Finally, for additional structural integrity, I added 2x6 boards at each corner mounted perpendicularly at 45-degree angles (Pictures 4 and 5). 4. For adjusting the angle, I used 14 Gauge Slotted Steel Angles mounted on each of the posts (Picture 6). They are more than strong enough for the job because the array is nicely balanced and the wind exerts equal pressure on the top and bottom of the array. And, most importantly, the angle irons provide additional support to eliminate any sag or fatigue that might eventually develop in the wood components of the structure.
Excellent design and video! I have some serious wind in North East Ohio by the lake and will be using your design. I'll be adding some overkill. Concrete and posts at a 45 degree angle about 4' behind to help brace it. 40-60mph gusts. Not many trees around. Thanks for sharing!!!
Excellent idea. I have seen some tilting arrays on a wood structure as you have done. I assume you are using the Uni-Strut to ground the panels together. Even with the cost of the uni-strut and hardware this looks much cheaper than a $6k cost of commercial ground mounts. I am sure there are many trade-offs, but I am trying to get in to emergency power that will grow into a full system over time. If I can make a ground mount that is sturdy like yours and tilts this sounds intriguing. Thanks for the ideas and all the best from north Texas.
Good video James. Here in Alaska it's best to build mounts that can go just past vertical for the solar panels. That way we can catch all the very low sun angles for 6 months out of the year and going 5-10 degrees past vertical greatly reduces snow buildup on the panels, and it also catches all the reflected light from the pristine white snow which can be slightly higher output than pointing the panels directly at the sun. I think the next big thing on solar mounts will be ingenious ideas to help better harvest the full potential of the newer double-sided panels which are able to collect more reflected light than just the front single surface.
I would put some 10ga plates at the pivot to spread the load to the post. The uplift from wind loads has me worried about relying on 1” of material to keep it in place.
Nice work. I suggest you use bushings in your posts. There should be a way to set up automatic positioning by monitoring panel output and using a linear actuator.
Looks good. I need my power in the winter time for heat pump systems. So all mine are fixed tilt from 45 to 66°. I don’t make any adjustments because I have five to ten times the power coming in during the summertime. You need about triple the solar array for the winter time to make it through. Totally off grid. I produced 17 MWh in the last year.
I'm looking into a solar system, I never liked the fixed system. I'm in the tropics and my location is almost in a valley and I was thinking about how to utilizing the sun the entire day as it moves over, I'm glad I saw this idea. Thanks for the video
Nice job. You’ve given me a clue (since I had none) to how I should do my single panel mounted. Thank and I hope you’re better for more videos in the future.
I just ordered 14 panels and researching ground mounts DIY. Found you! I'm in Doyline, Louisiana. Already have a dual axis tracker with 12 panels, probably will put and actuator to tilt with anemometer to know when to go flat for high wind.
I would consider adding another block of material in-between your pairs of arms that is set to be a positive stop when the array is at it's most vertical orientation. My biggest worry with a system like that is it's TOO easy to move, especially when strong winds turn that entire structure into a giant sail.
Love the design and I'll be trying something similar. Quick question: what diameter did you dig the holes to? I was thinking of using an 8" auger but a little quick math says that likely wouldn't have enough strength at the corners of the 2x6
Thank you, James! Question: just to make sure that I got all the dimensions correct, can you confirm what is the center- to-center measurement between the ground posts?
Have you ever considered a manual jack screw ( manual linear actuator) type of setup for you're tilting mechanism? I'm planning on building a similar adjustable wood ground mount and that is what I plan on using on all the posts.... quick question so you're using 4 x 6 posts... what diameter were your holes in the ground?
Step-by-Step Build Instructions for DIY Tilting Solar Mount:
Prepare the Poles: Use 4x6 poles buried 3-4 feet in the ground. Ensure they are all straight and level to the top of each other. Use high-strength concrete to stabilize them.
Install Bolts: Once the poles are in place, measure down two inches from the top of the post and put a center mark on that two-inch line. Drill a 1-inch hole, and insert an 8-inch-long 7/8 bolt. Repeat for each pole.
Build the Frame: Cut treated 2x6 boards into 9-foot lengths. Use a saw to reverse crown the boards, so the high side is down in the center. Put two washers on the bolt, then slide the board onto the bolts. Add another washer to keep the board from locking to the wood. Repeat the process for the next board. Use blocks cut from 12-foot pieces to lock the boards together. Put two screws on each side and screw them together.
Build the Rest of the Frame: Divide the nine-foot boards into three-foot sections, and measure and cut pieces for the inside blocks. Screw these in place to support the 2x6 boards.
Mount the Solar Panels: Install hangers to hold the solar panels. Measure the outside edge to the center of the next block to ensure they are all the same length. Screw on the faceboard, then attach the cap board.
Test the Mount: The completed mount can hold up to 12 large solar panels and cost around $360 to build. The mount can be easily tilted up and down, and it can be moved around to adjust for seasonal changes.
Note: It is recommended to use ground contact pressure-treated lumber for this project. Also, make sure to adjust the mount monthly to ensure maximum power output.
at what location is the hole drilled in the 2x6?
2" from the top @ 2:00 min mark he mentions it.@@Scat.original
I plan on doing the same thing but with the 2x6 boads with a 10% bias to the front side so there is a little more weight to the front/bottom of the rack...
Just remember that when you tilt it with it balanced the lower side will be heavier. The weight will shift towards the downward side.
Saw ya on Facebook, All I can say is what a bunch of A-holes on there.
Best vid on the tube for tilting solar panels
Thank you.. At least i can share and help someone out!
Just finished my solar project and want to give a shout out for a great plan and thanks for your kind assistance! Several people including inspectors, utility workers, material suppliers, and trades people have openly admired the ground stand and wanted to know where I got the plan. Of course, I told them I got it from you.
Here are few notes and comments.
1. I live on a wind-swept plain in the upper Midwest where the winters are long and cold and soil is sandy, so I used 12" x 48" Ceme-Tube Plastic Standard Concrete Forming Tubes to get below the frost line, minimize frost lock, and provide sufficient ballast. For additional stability, I also added a second row of posts four feet behind the main row (Picture 1). That, combined with 1 ½” vertical gaps and 1” horizontal gaps between the panels meets national code requirements that structures can withstand sustained winds of 106 mph (which, where I live, is expected once every 3,000 years). 😊Since installing, we have had wind gusts in the 40 to 50 mph range, but you would never know it from the panels as they haven't shown even the slightest movement under those conditions.
2. My panels are each 405 kW and measure 40” x 72” mounted horizontally three high in four vertical columns. At that size, I was pushing the span limits of the wood framing and getting slight sag on the outside edges, so I slightly modified the original plan and mounted the four outside fascia boards on the inside with hangers lined up flush with the front of the struts. Then, I went back and added reinforcing boards on the outside (Pictures 2 and 3).
3. Finally, for additional structural integrity, I added 2x6 boards at each corner mounted perpendicularly at 45-degree angles (Pictures 4 and 5).
4. For adjusting the angle, I used 14 Gauge Slotted Steel Angles mounted on each of the posts (Picture 6). They are more than strong enough for the job because the array is nicely balanced and the wind exerts equal pressure on the top and bottom of the array. And, most importantly, the angle irons provide additional support to eliminate any sag or fatigue that might eventually develop in the wood components of the structure.
Seen the pictures... Awesome work... Love the upgrades. This is how we help others. Very nice job. Glad i could help out.
Where can i see the pictures? Thanks
Maybe you could post the pictures to your channel
@@COGirl444 Thanks. Didn't know I could. Just posted the pics.
Excellent design and video! I have some serious wind in North East Ohio by the lake and will be using your design. I'll be adding some overkill. Concrete and posts at a 45 degree angle about 4' behind to help brace it. 40-60mph gusts. Not many trees around. Thanks for sharing!!!
I really like your solar frame.
Excellent idea. I have seen some tilting arrays on a wood structure as you have done. I assume you are using the Uni-Strut to ground the panels together. Even with the cost of the uni-strut and hardware this looks much cheaper than a $6k cost of commercial ground mounts. I am sure there are many trade-offs, but I am trying to get in to emergency power that will grow into a full system over time. If I can make a ground mount that is sturdy like yours and tilts this sounds intriguing. Thanks for the ideas and all the best from north Texas.
Good video James. Here in Alaska it's best to build mounts that can go just past vertical for the solar panels. That way we can catch all the very low sun angles for 6 months out of the year and going 5-10 degrees past vertical greatly reduces snow buildup on the panels, and it also catches all the reflected light from the pristine white snow which can be slightly higher output than pointing the panels directly at the sun. I think the next big thing on solar mounts will be ingenious ideas to help better harvest the full potential of the newer double-sided panels which are able to collect more reflected light than just the front single surface.
Looks good. I just put my post right into the ground. No concrete!
Yeah yeah Joe... I am sure that is the way that one is designed lol
Looked at a lot of these this is pretty impressive Thank You.
Glad i could help
Love to add a linear actuator to this
Excellent mount. Probably one of the better designs that I have seen for DIY. Thanks for taking the time to make the videos.
You bet
I would put some 10ga plates at the pivot to spread the load to the post. The uplift from wind loads has me worried about relying on 1” of material to keep it in place.
Very nice mount. I'll be curious about the next video
Nice work. I suggest you use bushings in your posts. There should be a way to set up automatic positioning by monitoring panel output and using a linear actuator.
Looks good. I need my power in the winter time for heat pump systems. So all mine are fixed tilt from 45 to 66°. I don’t make any adjustments because I have five to ten times the power coming in during the summertime. You need about triple the solar array for the winter time to make it through. Totally off grid. I produced 17 MWh in the last year.
Nice 👍
Very detailed and instructive video, great help for me and others! Well done! 👏👏👏!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you!
Great video. Thank you for making it.
My pleasure!
nice Step by step explanation
Thank you
I'm looking into a solar system, I never liked the fixed system. I'm in the tropics and my location is almost in a valley and I was thinking about how to utilizing the sun the entire day as it moves over, I'm glad I saw this idea. Thanks for the video
Go for it!
Nice job. You’ve given me a clue (since I had none) to how I should do my single panel mounted. Thank and I hope you’re better for more videos in the future.
Glad it helped
I just ordered 14 panels and researching ground mounts DIY. Found you! I'm in Doyline, Louisiana.
Already have a dual axis tracker with 12 panels, probably will put and actuator to tilt with anemometer to know when to go flat for high wind.
Very well done. Clear instructions. Thank you! Will be biilding mine this winter.
Awesome!!!!
Thank you so much this gave me great information to start my own project
Use the trailer jack. That way you have a crank handle to tilt your panels
I would consider adding another block of material in-between your pairs of arms that is set to be a positive stop when the array is at it's most vertical orientation. My biggest worry with a system like that is it's TOO easy to move, especially when strong winds turn that entire structure into a giant sail.
I'm considering building this exactly but with it not balanced by ~2", slightly off center so the weight pulls it downward toward the winter position.
You are good!
Love the design and I'll be trying something similar. Quick question: what diameter did you dig the holes to? I was thinking of using an 8" auger but a little quick math says that likely wouldn't have enough strength at the corners of the 2x6
8" auger and widen it out to 10" The biggest i could get for my harbor frieght auger was an 8
@@Tech4UbyJames Awesome, thanks for the quick reply!
Thank you, James! Question: just to make sure that I got all the dimensions correct, can you confirm what is the center- to-center measurement between the ground posts?
That all depends on the size of your panels. On the one in the video it was 9’6”
@@Tech4UbyJames Thanks. Just emailed you at your Gmail address.
With the 7/8 bolts did you use a split lock washer between the nut and last washer? Great video thanks!
What is the distance between the 4x6 posts?
What is total length and width of array.
Great array and video!
This all depends on your panels.
If the rack was split into two halves, that would make tilting it manually even lighter.
Did you devise a way to tie the tilt assembly to the posts to enable monthly adjustment?
Not yet. Just using 1x4's at the moment
but where do you buy the bolts?
Tractor Supply
Did you continue this build in another video? Panel Mounting? ect?
That is coming... Had work get in the way for a while... Now it's time for me!!!
I can’t wait because after this part, I have no clue what I’m gonna do
Are the first 2x6 you put on did you center the hole on it, when you drilled it? or is it offset? thanks great video
Have you ever considered a manual jack screw ( manual linear actuator) type of setup for you're tilting mechanism? I'm planning on building a similar adjustable wood ground mount and that is what I plan on using on all the posts.... quick question so you're using 4 x 6 posts... what diameter were your holes in the ground?
I have a video coming with a winch installed for tilting the array. The holes are 9"
@@Tech4UbyJames I think you said you used a power auger from Harbor Freight?
@@brandonoh777 Yes it was an 8" and we reamed it out to 9" But now i have a new toy... Video coming soon.
Bonjour,
Les poteaux enterrés, ce sont 14x14 - 16x16 .....ils font qu'elle longueur ?
Ils sont bétonnés ? Beau travail 👍
Merci
what is the distance between posts in ground?
That depends on your panels. Mine is at 10'6"
How did you know how long to make the topp and bottom?
What is the length between the 3 4x6s?
That all depends on your panel size.
tuba six!
How much did you cut off the 4x6?
What are your facial boards length.
Material links?
@swan433 I think you misunderstand @Scat.original They are referring to the first 2 - 2x6's he put up, not the 4x6's