I'm an Oval racer so use brushed/NiMh almost all of the time. I have also run brushless/Lipo set-ups; Anyone who believes they need to replace a brushed motor every few months clearly does not know how to take care of a brushed motor. They need cleaning and bearings oiled every few months and as long as you don't overgear and fry them, they will last you at least a year. LiPo's DO need to be taken care of!! Charging bag and no contact racing (which is why I do not think using them in Oval F1 is a good idea overall) is what they were made for. I've seen them go up on track (again, oval is far more hardcore). The reason Kamtec/Mardave/Bat/anyone who makes minis/hotrods/etc. do make do not "embrace" brushless is that these types of cars are a budget class. Lipos and brushless are NOT budget. They are "beginner" cars that are meant to be easy so that litle kids can mess with them and not blow up LiPos or miscontact expensive sensored brushless ESCs. So, running a mini brushed/NiMh vs brushless Lipo makes no difference speed-wise. However, when you get to proper circuit racing, that's when your heavy NiMhs will start to cut your lap-times. TL:DR - Brushed vs Brushless makes no difference at this level. From someone who makes F2 National finals, won the BRCA Hot-Rod World championship last year and runs a 6-cell brushed F1 against 1s 10.5t brushless F1s. I also won the Force Raceway banger series 3 years in a row!
Loving the passionate reply buddy.... All excellent well written points mate and I belive you have helped make my point with national championships and Force championships under your belt I guess your well into the top 10% of racers if not the top 5%.. As stated in the video I agree with your point about a little increase in costs in the initial purchase but over time it works out much cheaper I believe... Thanks for watching and commenting pal its been a really interesting experiment and has created some spirited debates around the hobby... Have a top day buddy 👍
@@captainchaos3053 yep I'd agree with that as for example I might have the option to alter "droop" but do I really understand why I'm changing it or what is the difference between the feel of 1mm or 1.5mm of droop 👍 So you end up fiddling with setup rather than just driving the car and learning to drive around the problem
Finally some real good arguements for this progress. Its amazing how many people are against this. Like you said Bren, the opposers are always the ones with all the kit for battery management etc. Us mere plebs just getting into the sport cant get all this ancient tech so cant be competitive. I really hope someone from the BRCA / 12th groups watch this video and bring the sport into the modern age. At our club we always get the push back about it being too expensive etc... Yeah, it is a little more to buy but when youre spending £10 on a new 21t motor every couple of months and £25 of new cells etc etc then the argument is void!!! Great video mate
Thanks for your comments buddy it's been an interesting 4 weeks since we first started having a go with this and as you say the expense argument is really a none starter and from a speed perspective the cream will always rise to the top... Thanks for watching and commenting mate it really helps.... Which is your local club buddy
Nimh battery management is not old simple, but your telling me you can't buy a charger and a cheap multimeter? The kit to look after a Nimh is waaay cheaper than a good lipo and charger
@@captainchaos3053sorry disagree with you there. If you’re charging NiMH then you already have a charger that can charge a lipo. A decent lipo is only going to cost you £45. That will last 2 years easy. A multimeter won’t help you keep cells in balance. This is Bren’s argument. People coming into the sport from today can't get hold of those old balancers / equalisers. Lipos don’t need any of that. Hence the argument remains, top boys stay at the top and newbies cant get near them.
Another novel tiny car race accomplished ... mostly. I remember the "battery wars" of the 90's, where you had to have the best batteries just to last the race with OK speed. The brushed motors do need a lot of babying, and if you want to go fast you need to do all the tricks down to a good lathing every race or two. Still have my lathe. The coms get pitted, the brushes get warn. Just returning into the race scene again with brushless and LiPo batteries and it's a lot nicer not having to worry about replacing the motors or batteries, not even every few years or more ... if you treat them right. To me, cost savings is not having to replace equipment at all if it can be helped.
Wow if we had to start "lathing the coms" that would be the last straw lol... Brushed motors all have to be sealed and un tampered with... But your right I can't understand the resistance to this just on a easier maintenance basis alone... But makes a good controversial topic and there's nothing quite as satisfying as rocking a boat 😉 Love the idea of "Battery Wars" sound like an all new reality series 😂 Anyway buddy as I'm about to start buggies how about a basic set up video What tweeks change what on the car etc. 👍👍
@@BrensRCracing Yep, a good tweek video would be awesome, you would do a great job doing one. Me? nope, my voice and demeanor would be too boring at this point. I've been setting my buggies up with setup sheets from the pros, trying to find a decent tweek video to help. I have a buddy I pit with that used to autocross locally, and he's into figuring out what each adjustment can do depending on how the buggy is misbehaving. Yesterday my son and I raced on-road and had fun doing that. My car is almost pure stock setup still, with anti-roll bars the only enhancements I've really made. Started out doing I think 6 practice laps before I hit a wall hard and popped the batteries out, and broke an arm. One of the fella's running the race also likes the cars I'm running and gave me a quick speed secret: glue the sidewalls of the front tires. My pit buddy then showed me how to do it using a piece of regular paper, putting a small amount of glue in a little pile (about half a centimeter wide), spinning the wheel slowly (OFF the car of course) till it touched the glue and continuing to spin it slowly till I got the right amount of saturation on the outside of the wheel. These are rubber wheels we run 1/10th scale, not the foam ones you currently run. Made the cars driveable, I made the top of the D and one it (to bump into the C), my son made the top of the C (while I started in last) and won it to bump to the B main. That's how bumps work over here. Three qualifiers to seat you for one of the mains, then you can bump upwards through the mains if you finish in the top 1 or 2 spots.
I’ve really enjoyed all your videos on brushless/lipo. I’ve been going through the same at my local club but with a lot resistance and negative comments that are not based on fact and testing. I currently run 17.5t fixed timing 1s at my local club against 21t brushed 4cell nimh. No additive. My car is actually I tiny bit slower then the really fast guys but still plenty competitive. Everyone told me it would be faster, it’s not fair etc. The reality is it is fine, it is fair. I also agree with you that if you run 2s brushless with the power turned down it still won’t beat the really quick guys. If you turn the power up the lap times do not increase on most circuits as the cars become hard to drive. I will share this video with my local club. I’m hoping we can all start to be more open about the topic and not met with arguments. We are just playing with toy cars.
Lots of "flat caps and stuck in there ways" members of our awesome racing cummunity.... But your right there isn't an advantage the good drivers will still be the good drivers but as I say we will not be being beaten by a lack of knowledge it will be because we have been out driven... As it should be 👍👍👍👍 Thanks for your support and kind words which is your local club?
My jury's out on this , in a recent final at ignition my fully un modified Brushed set up did really well against 3 brushless , i got a 3rd mainly due to it handled better due to the less power and consistency .
Absolutely mate I watched it back and your right and it's an old saying but a true one "power is nothing without control" I still hold the belief its a longer lasting more consistent and over time a cheaper way to go.... But your right not necessarily faster... See you Thursday buddy
I suppose you could run two classes. Novice using brushed motors and call the second one a modified class with brushless for the better drivers. Maybe Novices have to have top 3 finish so many times before they progress
Yeah definitely an option for individual clubs to look into a bit like how the US seems to do things with a "box stock" class and a "Mod" class running the same platform but different electronics etc... Thanks for watching and commenting
Are you just racing to win every time regardless of the competition and how much money you can spend or is it for the fun of it and winning is a bonus well earned ?. Watching the smiling faces and after race sporting banter there speaks volumes .
Oh mate I'm not here to smash the A final far from it watch any of my videos its all about the banter and smiles per mile... Beside my tallent level with this is about maxed out I think but its been a brilliant experiment, with I feel more positive points than negative ones.... Thanks for watching 👍👍👍
Not being funny but do most clubs not still use the mechanical speed control? That would mean you can't just turn it down and also sort of removes some of the skill of driving these things? The increased fire risk is very true, I have seen an 1/8th buggy ignite after a good tumble. That's not the only problem people charging trackside brings risk too. Brushless motors need looking after too. That said I have a 25year old brushed motor that still runs.
Ahh you mean running a specific pinion selection and spur gear... Yeah that's a fair point but you can stii turn down the speed on most hand sets I believe.. All adds to the debate buddy... Still think the fire thing is over played 😉
![Kodak Black - Catch Fire [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A4ch-olIuZo/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm an Oval racer so use brushed/NiMh almost all of the time. I have also run brushless/Lipo set-ups; Anyone who believes they need to replace a brushed motor every few months clearly does not know how to take care of a brushed motor. They need cleaning and bearings oiled every few months and as long as you don't overgear and fry them, they will last you at least a year. LiPo's DO need to be taken care of!! Charging bag and no contact racing (which is why I do not think using them in Oval F1 is a good idea overall) is what they were made for. I've seen them go up on track (again, oval is far more hardcore). The reason Kamtec/Mardave/Bat/anyone who makes minis/hotrods/etc. do make do not "embrace" brushless is that these types of cars are a budget class. Lipos and brushless are NOT budget. They are "beginner" cars that are meant to be easy so that litle kids can mess with them and not blow up LiPos or miscontact expensive sensored brushless ESCs. So, running a mini brushed/NiMh vs brushless Lipo makes no difference speed-wise. However, when you get to proper circuit racing, that's when your heavy NiMhs will start to cut your lap-times. TL:DR - Brushed vs Brushless makes no difference at this level. From someone who makes F2 National finals, won the BRCA Hot-Rod World championship last year and runs a 6-cell brushed F1 against 1s 10.5t brushless F1s. I also won the Force Raceway banger series 3 years in a row!
Loving the passionate reply buddy....
All excellent well written points mate and I belive you have helped make my point with national championships and Force championships under your belt I guess your well into the top 10% of racers if not the top 5%..
As stated in the video I agree with your point about a little increase in costs in the initial purchase but over time it works out much cheaper I believe...
Thanks for watching and commenting pal its been a really interesting experiment and has created some spirited debates around the hobby...
Have a top day buddy 👍
I would also like to add that at club level a stock standard rear pod can still be competitive without the upgrades.
@@captainchaos3053 yep I'd agree with that as for example I might have the option to alter "droop" but do I really understand why I'm changing it or what is the difference between the feel of 1mm or 1.5mm of droop 👍
So you end up fiddling with setup rather than just driving the car and learning to drive around the problem
Love you Bren, I’m so glad someone is telling it like it is!
Thanks buddy for watching and commenting 👍👍have a good one
Finally some real good arguements for this progress. Its amazing how many people are against this. Like you said Bren, the opposers are always the ones with all the kit for battery management etc. Us mere plebs just getting into the sport cant get all this ancient tech so cant be competitive. I really hope someone from the BRCA / 12th groups watch this video and bring the sport into the modern age. At our club we always get the push back about it being too expensive etc... Yeah, it is a little more to buy but when youre spending £10 on a new 21t motor every couple of months and £25 of new cells etc etc then the argument is void!!!
Great video mate
Thanks for your comments buddy it's been an interesting 4 weeks since we first started having a go with this and as you say the expense argument is really a none starter and from a speed perspective the cream will always rise to the top...
Thanks for watching and commenting mate it really helps....
Which is your local club buddy
I live in the South so I either race at Suthampton RC Circuit Club or SMRCCC (Southampton Model Radio Control Car Club - Oval track) @@BrensRCracing
Nimh battery management is not old simple, but your telling me you can't buy a charger and a cheap multimeter? The kit to look after a Nimh is waaay cheaper than a good lipo and charger
@@captainchaos3053sorry disagree with you there. If you’re charging NiMH then you already have a charger that can charge a lipo. A decent lipo is only going to cost you £45. That will last 2 years easy. A multimeter won’t help you keep cells in balance. This is Bren’s argument. People coming into the sport from today can't get hold of those old balancers / equalisers. Lipos don’t need any of that. Hence the argument remains, top boys stay at the top and newbies cant get near them.
Good video.. you have shown how changes could happen.. maybe when we win the lottery we can set this up🎉!!! Xx
Living the dream already.... But a lotto win would be nice
Another novel tiny car race accomplished ... mostly. I remember the "battery wars" of the 90's, where you had to have the best batteries just to last the race with OK speed. The brushed motors do need a lot of babying, and if you want to go fast you need to do all the tricks down to a good lathing every race or two. Still have my lathe. The coms get pitted, the brushes get warn. Just returning into the race scene again with brushless and LiPo batteries and it's a lot nicer not having to worry about replacing the motors or batteries, not even every few years or more ... if you treat them right. To me, cost savings is not having to replace equipment at all if it can be helped.
Wow if we had to start "lathing the coms" that would be the last straw lol... Brushed motors all have to be sealed and un tampered with...
But your right I can't understand the resistance to this just on a easier maintenance basis alone... But makes a good controversial topic and there's nothing quite as satisfying as rocking a boat 😉
Love the idea of "Battery Wars" sound like an all new reality series 😂
Anyway buddy as I'm about to start buggies how about a basic set up video
What tweeks change what on the car etc. 👍👍
@@BrensRCracing Yep, a good tweek video would be awesome, you would do a great job doing one. Me? nope, my voice and demeanor would be too boring at this point. I've been setting my buggies up with setup sheets from the pros, trying to find a decent tweek video to help. I have a buddy I pit with that used to autocross locally, and he's into figuring out what each adjustment can do depending on how the buggy is misbehaving.
Yesterday my son and I raced on-road and had fun doing that. My car is almost pure stock setup still, with anti-roll bars the only enhancements I've really made. Started out doing I think 6 practice laps before I hit a wall hard and popped the batteries out, and broke an arm. One of the fella's running the race also likes the cars I'm running and gave me a quick speed secret: glue the sidewalls of the front tires. My pit buddy then showed me how to do it using a piece of regular paper, putting a small amount of glue in a little pile (about half a centimeter wide), spinning the wheel slowly (OFF the car of course) till it touched the glue and continuing to spin it slowly till I got the right amount of saturation on the outside of the wheel. These are rubber wheels we run 1/10th scale, not the foam ones you currently run. Made the cars driveable, I made the top of the D and one it (to bump into the C), my son made the top of the C (while I started in last) and won it to bump to the B main. That's how bumps work over here. Three qualifiers to seat you for one of the mains, then you can bump upwards through the mains if you finish in the top 1 or 2 spots.
I’ve really enjoyed all your videos on brushless/lipo. I’ve been going through the same at my local club but with a lot resistance and negative comments that are not based on fact and testing. I currently run 17.5t fixed timing 1s at my local club against 21t brushed 4cell nimh. No additive. My car is actually I tiny bit slower then the really fast guys but still plenty competitive. Everyone told me it would be faster, it’s not fair etc. The reality is it is fine, it is fair.
I also agree with you that if you run 2s brushless with the power turned down it still won’t beat the really quick guys. If you turn the power up the lap times do not increase on most circuits as the cars become hard to drive.
I will share this video with my local club. I’m hoping we can all start to be more open about the topic and not met with arguments. We are just playing with toy cars.
Lots of "flat caps and stuck in there ways" members of our awesome racing cummunity....
But your right there isn't an advantage the good drivers will still be the good drivers but as I say we will not be being beaten by a lack of knowledge it will be because we have been out driven...
As it should be 👍👍👍👍
Thanks for your support and kind words which is your local club?
@@BrensRCracing seems to be the case. My local club is Southampton RC circuit club. It’s a nice club.
My jury's out on this , in a recent final at ignition my fully un modified Brushed set up did really well against 3 brushless , i got a 3rd mainly due to it handled better due to the less power and consistency .
Absolutely mate I watched it back and your right and it's an old saying but a true one "power is nothing without control"
I still hold the belief its a longer lasting more consistent and over time a cheaper way to go....
But your right not necessarily faster...
See you Thursday buddy
I suppose you could run two classes. Novice using brushed motors and call the second one a modified class with brushless for the better drivers. Maybe Novices have to have top 3 finish so many times before they progress
Yeah definitely an option for individual clubs to look into a bit like how the US seems to do things with a "box stock" class and a "Mod" class running the same platform but different electronics etc... Thanks for watching and commenting
Are you just racing to win every time regardless of the competition and how much money you can spend or is it for the fun of it and winning is a bonus well earned ?. Watching the smiling faces and after race sporting banter there speaks volumes .
Oh mate I'm not here to smash the A final far from it watch any of my videos its all about the banter and smiles per mile... Beside my tallent level with this is about maxed out I think but its been a brilliant experiment, with I feel more positive points than negative ones....
Thanks for watching 👍👍👍
Not being funny but do most clubs not still use the mechanical speed control? That would mean you can't just turn it down and also sort of removes some of the skill of driving these things? The increased fire risk is very true, I have seen an 1/8th buggy ignite after a good tumble. That's not the only problem people charging trackside brings risk too. Brushless motors need looking after too. That said I have a 25year old brushed motor that still runs.
Ahh you mean running a specific pinion selection and spur gear... Yeah that's a fair point but you can stii turn down the speed on most hand sets I believe.. All adds to the debate buddy...
Still think the fire thing is over played 😉