I will be interested to watch this video because I want to fit some relays into mine. My lights currently run through the column switch at full current.
Wire stripper a bit like the one you have is probably the one tool that I have had the most use out of and saved the most time. Bought it when I was in my teens.
@@neilthompson9270 There are several available from various suppliers of a similar design. I find these work very effectively on different wire / cable thicknesses as they are "self-adjusting". I think Stanley make them. Mine I got years ago, I don't think it was an expensive brand, but purchased from an electrical wholesalers TLC Electrical Supplies.
HI Alex.Did the same to my 1967 Morris Minors halogen headlights but bought a complete kit from ebay for £10 which incuded 2 relays,fuse and holder and all the wiring which basically replaced all the old headlight wires.The result being no voltage drop and the headlights being much brighter.Guessing about 50%.Much brighter now.Can see in the dark now.
I don't know what the wattage was on the headlights of my first car, a Fiat 127 from the same era, but I swear that the LED lights on my bicycle are brighter than the dipped beam from a car from the seventies! That seems a very useful upgrade to me.
Hi Alex great job fitting headlamp relays I’ve done the same on a very old Landrover ( which had sealed beam units ) before Just one thing I noticed might help For safety Have 1 fuse for dip beam 2nd Fuse for high beam So if dip beam blows a fuse You can still use the high beam on the other fuse Or the other way 👍
So at least you will now be able to see where you going good idea to upgrade the headlamps Alex well done however whilst you're in there and under the bonnet could you please find an insulated cover for your positive battery terminal keep up the good work
For the same wattage the halogens shouldn't draw any more current. However they lose their output light quicker as the voltage drops. Relays reduce the voltage drop so that is the main reason the lights look brighter/whiter.
It's better to go 12v for the sum as it sort of "over estimates". If you did it using say 14v it would suspect the lamps to be drawing around 8.5amps. But as my amp clamp shows near the end of video, you see the calculations i used were pretty damn close. Closer than if you had done it by 14v.
@@Alexsassets My concern is that with 14.4v there is more current drawn. Using the figures from your measurements and normal voltage values: V=IR Resting battery voltage = 12.6 Dip 9.85 measured Main 11 measured Dip resistance = 12.6 / 9.85 = 1.28 Main resistance = 12.6 / 11 = 1.145 Alternator voltage at max = 14.4 Dip current 14.4/1.28 = 11.25 amp Main current 14.4/1.145 = 12.58 amp It would be interesting to see measured current and voltage when the engine is running.
If only you were an “AA Relay” member somebody could have come and done it for you… 😊 Seriously, DO NOT put a 20A fuse in a circuit unless you KNOW that the wiring is thick enough to take that much current. The purpose of the fuse is to stop the wiring from melting and catching fire in the event of a short circuit ! 15A should be fine to protect a 10A circuit.
Is there anything this young lady cannot do I wonder ? Alex tackles any jobs, Respect.
You definitely wouldn't be able to do this on a modern-ish car, great video Alex.
P = IV / V = IR, ah yes, this is very good practical application Alex
I will be interested to watch this video because I want to fit some relays into mine. My lights currently run through the column switch at full current.
Wire stripper a bit like the one you have is probably the one tool that I have had the most use out of and saved the most time. Bought it when I was in my teens.
I wish that I knew which make it is, as it’s one tool that I’d like to add to my kit?
Any suggestions?
@@neilthompson9270 There are several available from various suppliers of a similar design. I find these work very effectively on different wire / cable thicknesses as they are "self-adjusting". I think Stanley make them. Mine I got years ago, I don't think it was an expensive brand, but purchased from an electrical wholesalers TLC Electrical Supplies.
Sorted your working out was spot on Alex.
This post was really good .
Nice modification for the Marina and some great advice for people.
HI Alex.Did the same to my 1967 Morris Minors halogen headlights but bought a complete kit from ebay for £10 which incuded 2 relays,fuse and holder and all the wiring which basically replaced all the old headlight wires.The result being no voltage drop and the headlights being much brighter.Guessing about 50%.Much brighter now.Can see in the dark now.
I don't know what the wattage was on the headlights of my first car, a Fiat 127 from the same era, but I swear that the LED lights on my bicycle are brighter than the dipped beam from a car from the seventies! That seems a very useful upgrade to me.
Great job Alex.
You’re amazing Alex 🤔
I would not know where to start when it comes to Electrics 🥴🤣
Hi Alex great job fitting headlamp relays
I’ve done the same on a very old Landrover ( which had sealed beam units ) before
Just one thing I noticed might help
For safety
Have 1 fuse for dip beam
2nd Fuse for high beam
So if dip beam blows a fuse
You can still use the high beam on the other fuse
Or the other way 👍
Hi Alex, excellent video, pure genius. As others have said, all correctly worked out. Well done.
Cheers, Jon B.
I've learned alot from this great video, Thank you. Paul Lucas.
Yay more Alex to watch on my day off! :D x
I'm waiting for more Alex to watch too 🥲
That was a good video!
Nice job, illuminating! I need to do the same on mine.
Glad you are using halogen headlamps instead of possible LED headlamps that some in the US have fitted.
Loving the Marina!
So at least you will now be able to see where you going good idea to upgrade the headlamps Alex well done however whilst you're in there and under the bonnet could you please find an insulated cover for your positive battery terminal keep up the good work
Well done I did my Rover p6 front and rear fogs off a relay an independent switch and the battery , do enjoy old skool auto electrics.
For the same wattage the halogens shouldn't draw any more current. However they lose their output light quicker as the voltage drops. Relays reduce the voltage drop so that is the main reason the lights look brighter/whiter.
Excellent! I can't add to the other positive comments already mentioned as you know your onions when it comes to cars, or is that Ohms
This is totally my bag. 👍
Well done Alex - I’m cack at auto electrics 👍
Using some trunking for the new wiring will improve the look and protect the wiring.
Yes i must invest in some trunking. To be honest i forgot what it was called haha
Out of interest, what wattage were the sealed beams? Great video.
Good question!! No idea.... lamps are now in the Triumph. 😄
@Alexsassets Back in the day those sealed beams were known for giving a good light compared to the tungsten bulbs of the time.
I would use 14.4v not 12v and also be checking the wire size for the power and earth to the headlights, but then I'm fussy about such things.
It's better to go 12v for the sum as it sort of "over estimates".
If you did it using say 14v it would suspect the lamps to be drawing around 8.5amps. But as my amp clamp shows near the end of video, you see the calculations i used were pretty damn close. Closer than if you had done it by 14v.
@@Alexsassets My concern is that with 14.4v there is more current drawn. Using the figures from your measurements and normal voltage values:
V=IR
Resting battery voltage = 12.6
Dip 9.85 measured
Main 11 measured
Dip resistance = 12.6 / 9.85 = 1.28
Main resistance = 12.6 / 11 = 1.145
Alternator voltage at max = 14.4
Dip current 14.4/1.28 = 11.25 amp
Main current 14.4/1.145 = 12.58 amp
It would be interesting to see measured current and voltage when the engine is running.
If only you were an “AA Relay” member somebody could have come and done it for you… 😊
Seriously, DO NOT put a 20A fuse in a circuit unless you KNOW that the wiring is thick enough to take that much current. The purpose of the fuse is to stop the wiring from melting and catching fire in the event of a short circuit ! 15A should be fine to protect a 10A circuit.
I've been away for a while. A Marina? How many cars do you have now?
I have 5. Remi has 4
@@Alexsassets Wow! Best keep those wire strippers handy.
usually the fitting on marinas..... earth problem because of all the copper contacts
You lost me at "the red wire". 💩4️⃣🧠🧠
😆