REVISIT - Changing the NEC/TOKIN Capacitors on a PS3 FAT - Marcel's Lot Part 4
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- Hi, this revisit video shows me attempting to replace the NEC Tokin capacitors on a PlayStation 3 Fat model with tantalum capacitors. It is the follow on video form Marcel's Lot Part 4.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince.
Hi friend, there is no need for desoldering then, you can remove them in chunks with cutting pliers and then you remove the pads with the soldering iron, which is how i do, they break easily.
Using the heat gun takes no effect since there are a lot of thermal dissipation, you would need to pre-heat the board for that. And it also makes a lot of smoke that is not good to breath.
You could test for short applying 1V with the power supply and feed in current, if voltage were all the time 0V you knew for sure you had made a bridge.
BTW CPUs and GPUs seam to be shorted (on beep mode) but they are not, they are have a very low resistance because they have a huge power consumption.
Also something that i've noticed, when screwing the coolers, you can't screw one and then the other, you have to do both, making an X shape, otherwise you might end up breaking a DIE or crack solder balls. This is also recommended for laptops as well.
Vince:"every millimeter counts"
Me:😏" that's what she said "
Seems like theres hope for these PS3s yet, will be especially worth it on PS2 compatible models.
Unfortunately they are just that noisy, even when new, not much you can do about that.
As for the update, the update file would have been on the game disc. This was common practice as back then in the earlier 2000s, not everyone had the internet, especially fast internet and since some updates were required to play some games like this one, it was the best way to roll it out.
This also helped with anti piracy by making sure that updates could still be pushed even if the console was not connected to the internet.
I might be wrong but I think Nintendo still does this with the Switch, I'm sure I've seen some games push a system update from the game cartridge itself.
Adam Keys The psp used that update system
If they're delidded and MX4'd underneath and on top of the lids they are virtually silent, I've just done 2 backwards compatible Phat's that have been lurking in the loft for years with Ylod's, replaced tokin's and delidded and they're both virtually silent now even playing intensive games.
>Tossed not one but 2 60GB OG PS3's back when everybody was tossing around theories about lead free solder or the GPU itself being fucked with no proper fix.
And now they're fixable. Fantastic.
The way you can tell are two easy signs:
1: storage not found intermittently on boot means not enough power.
2: immediate light with no fan spin-up/just the PSU fan alone. This is a power issue(PSU or caps). If it spins up and tries to boot but then fails, it's something else most likely. Note that this is rare - almost all that I have seen are no activity - red/yellow light immediately with no fan.
@@plektosgaming how about on slims ? , mines turns off on certain games
@@eynotj7011 You probably just need to repaste and remove dust buildup on your slim. There are lots of videos on how to do it.
Yup ive chunked like 3 BC away one got an unfortunate end with a 12 gauge😂
@@plektosgaming What do you mean by If it fan starts to spin then stops then yellow light then the 3 red beeps? could be something else??
Lol finally a tutorial on tokin replacement in English so i can understand what they are doing thanks man good vid going to fix my fat ps3 soon
Is your ps3 in ylod ?
@@sagarkinger7068 yea i thought that was implied
@@crteaser9726 how is it now?
How it went?
How did it go?
Good to see the revisits. I channeled my inner Vince last weekend and gave my old Bell & Howell analog multi meter some attention. It's now in good repair and ready for another thirty years. Thanks for the inspiration.
Vince, Love your videos mate, but you CAN change the tip on the hot air to suit the size of the job you are doing! Seems you take the 'one size fits all' approach :P
I picked up a fat PS3 from a boot sale this summer; works fine but the fan is dead noisy. I'd be interested to see if there is a way to make it quieter, and if so, it would be good to see you cover it in a future video. Nice work on the caps replacement.
MrJozza65 needs de-lid that’s why it’s loud. My friend did his and now it’s so quite.
That model is a treasure for moding, it can play everything with cfw, also noise is typical for that model. I suggest fan replacement and heatsink mod if you want to make it amazing console. Nice fix never the less. Cheerio !
heatsink mod?
It's not normal, you need to delid it and apply fresh paste. I didn't use thermal adhesive. Two years later and it still hasn't rammed up to full fan speed. Good luck
No i think its normal what if he delid it and broke something those chips are hard to open i think its best to leave it as is since it works fine
@@mikeanderson1994 the fans are on full for a reason, I had a lot of practice de-lidding. I'm sure he's capable. Ultimately it is his choice, I am just offering my advice based on my experiences. Thanks.
@@itsanarse yes I’m with u cause it really does dry up badly under them heat spreaders
He doesn't need to delid... his thermal paste application was unnecessarily conservative and a bit of a mess. One bead in the center in addition to what he did would have made a huge difference. He also didn't apply pressure to the chips evenly screwing the heatsink back on. I put mx4 on my fat ps3 a few months ago and it's been as quiet as they get under any load. Certainly not this bad.
Hi Vince, I know you probably won't revisit PS3's now but removing the Tokin's is very easy if you use a chisel, yes a chisel, 12mm wood chisel couple of taps with a pin hammer and they're off with no damage to the board/pads or surrounding components, you can remove them all in 5 mins, I kid you not it's very very easy this way.
Great fix! Truly amazing! I can't wait to see if this fixes the old backward compatible one you worked on previously!
Jim Bussey ive got a old jail broken phat ps3 that’s backwards and has failed to the ylod. Soon as I can get me some I’m gonna give it ago
@@bigbadtroll7353 I messed mine up trying to do preventive maintenance.
Cody Simpson that’s not good..
@@bigbadtroll7353 yeah, I already replaced it with another 60 gig ps3. I bought the new one from a pawn shop. I took it home and did the same type of maintenance and nothing happened. I even bought another 60gig ps3 just in case and something went wrong. I don't know how I messed up the first one. It gets the yellow light of death and it has never overheated. Ever since I did the maintenance it never turned back on.
Cody Simpson how did you mess it up? I got a 80Gb ps3 GLOD. Fixed the GLOD, ran the console for a bit after and it randomly shut down. Get a YLOD about a second after I reach the XMB. Wondering if it’s a PSU problem or something on the board.
Very good job. I also learn about my mistakes. I've already killed 2x xbox 360 and PS3 fat console. They are irreparable and only suitable as spare parts. You are my inspiration and I admire your sense of trouble finding. Whenever I find out that you have released a new video, I stop working and watch what you have prepared.
Hello, the reason the fans are kicking up and getting so loud is because both cpu and gpu are getting much hotter then they should, they need to be delided. Remember, under the IHS (integrated heat spreader - the flat metal that covers both cpu and gpu) theres also a lit bit of thermal paste contacting the die of the processors, and this thermal paste is extremely dried up by now, causing them to overheat and the fans going 100% trying to compensate. Deliding is hard, very delicate process. I killed my first ps3 trying to do it, but i learned from my mistakes and saved a friend's fat ps3 in the beginning of this year. A tip for deliding: VERY thin tool, no sharp edges, slow and steady. There's a channel called "NSC Modz", the guy shows the tools he uses and how he does it. I learned from him, made my own tools based on his. That's it. Looking forward for you to try it some time, it's challenging.
21:45 on most consoles, a copy of the software update needed to play the game is stored on the disc. this is to allow those who do not have access to the internet to still play the games.
To make it even better you should delid the cpu and gpu, because that’s the thermal paste that drys up and causes the fans to run at a high speed to try and cool it. I would delid them both and apply new thermal paste on the dies then put the heat spreaders back on and it will run much cooler, and a less chance of ur cpu and gpu dieing
You can just cut the heatspreaders away without thermal adhesive. The rsx is glued down on the 4 chips but they don't need to be glued back on, just thermal compound on the main chip would solve it. As for the cell, that one is a lot more difficult to delid. The heatspreaders on that one is held on by a silicon adhesive and needs to be cut away with a really thin knife. If you are interested I could explain it in more detail so you can try it yourself.
I delidded my fattie with clay knife
Painters knives are also fantastic. There's a good one that I use if you google 5pc painters knives. The number 1 is very thin and short so it's hard to hit the die of the CPU. Just heat up the heatspreader and it goes through fairly easily. Also very cheap!
@@frassyfrass3174 Painters knives are great, i also sharp them with 3000 grid sandpaper.
So nice Mate your showing the Truth, also after Replace with New Thermal Paste the Console gets no much quieter, the PS3 Fat 60Gb is in generall a loud Console same like all others.
My old PS3 was always like an aircraft, used to have to not play it at night when I was younger because it used to keep my dad awake 😂
Lol
never mind! i missed the part where you said you could scratch away the solder mask, so i did that and used one of the rails to solder on and the other side was soldered to the part of the board i scratched away, top man! youre the best vince!
Hey do u know if I’m supposed to change all 4 capacitors or just 1
@@Cool-vp1wh well when I done it I changed 1 out and tested it and it worked after changing that 1 every time.
Hey Vince! Thank you for these! I really appreciate your doing here. May We know what this "magnifier" called you are using in this vid? Thanks! :)
Go on then. Mine will probably go south one day so nice to see every possibility.
Separate note. I have a ps2 tv. Interested in fixing it?
Edit: I only ask because I tried and can’t.
thats one video i would like to see him do
What's wrong with it? A buddy of mine had a pstv and it needed a $5 eeprom chip replacement. Was a pretty easy fix. Seems like it was a very common issue with them when I was looking it up also.
Thats a video I would watch
I have a ps3 fat and it has Ylod i need it fixed
Great video Vince. After watching this RUclips pointed me to a video where the guy cuts the NEC caps out with a sharp blade, so it seems like you don't need to heat them up.
If this actually the solution for fixing the YLOD there's gonna be a bunch of people going into the attic or on Ebay trying to fix these things now. Hoping this console you've repaired doesn't die too soon! This has been an interesting watch.
It is, PCB is way too thicc to be able to break the solder balls under the BGAs from bending of the heat. Neither can heat from CPU/GPU cause the solder balls to melt, they do not run over 190°C that is required to melt solder..
@@StaticVapour590 ikr, that whole "solder balls reball blah blah" is a myth.
@@kevinragsdale6256 Louis Rossmann had a good video about that. Basically, when the board does flex, reflowing or reballing can help, but if there isn't a lot of flex in the board, a dead chip is more likely. If the chip is dieing, heating it up even below the melting point of the solder can temporarly revive it, but it isn't a long term solution. It might however work if you need to get some data and it's encrypted and the key is stored on that chip.
@@coreforge Ive seen hiw video on it. All the ones Ive had that didnt work would be fixed by swapping the capacitors on it
for those who encounter rlod while playing some games, replacing nec tokins with tantalums will help. i replaced 4 nec tokins with 4x4 470uf tantalums & voila, problem solved! it's really weird tho. the nec tokins suddenly stopped working properly after 12 years...average to no usage per day since bought in 2008
My Mate VINCE could you do another ps3 YLOD capacitor vid? Wanted to see how common that issue is. Thanks
You’re killing it, it needs the lids took off the cell and rsx and new paste put under them all will be quiet, still my original ps3 and it’s as quiet as a mouse no matter what’s being played on it
Hey man, thanks for the vid. I have a few questions to you or maybe anyone else that did this before I attempt it myself:
- How has the console hold up? Still working?
- Any other methods for removing the old chips for someone without a heat gun? I saw someone mention in the comments that they destroy easily and you can just desolder the remaining pads.
- Would trying to pre-tin the caps instead of the PCB traces be any helpful? Or are SMD components too fragile for that?
the problem is usually the rsx because of bad design by nvidia same thing happened to the Xbox 360 and the xenon chip
IT WAS NEVER THE TOKINS IT WAS THE RSX
Good job getting the ps3 fixed. I enjoyed the repair job.
put cfw to see temps in webman.
This, also you can change the fan speeds.
@@GenesHand It's a FAT, chances are it's probably idling about 66-68c on the CPU and maybe 54c on the GPU, I have mine Liquid metal'd between the IHS and Die and use MX4 between the heatsink and IHS, and it still reaches these temps. Gotta love 90nm
Ca l my fat before cfw cpu idled at about 80 degrees Celsius and rsx was around 70-75 degrees Celsius. Now with web man fan control the cpu is at 65 degrees Celsius all the time and the rsx is around 60 degrees Celsius at all times
Ca l oh and I also had the 17 blade fan witch isn’t that efficient. So a week ago I swapped it out with a 15 blade fan and I checked non-fan control temps with the 15 blade and the cpu sat around 74-76 degrees Celsius and rsx chip was around 66-72
@@BigeSnek You swapped an official fan for another ? I've been trying to search for better ps3 fat fans but it seems apart from official sony ones, there's none...
Watching your videos is always a leaning experience!
14:53 nice choice of music, gets me thinking of Amadeus 1984 x)
Do you know what song that is?
@@BigeSnekruclips.net/video/TJ6e4x2zoqY/видео.html&ab_channel=MarcoAntonioVillalobos
i found it, and it's not just similar, it clearly is the same music
@@SjP_92 Thanks bro.
I was also able to find one too. It’s the exact same song that was in this video
ruclips.net/video/NbBk5Y7mGyg/видео.html
We used to have a fatty and as memory serves it was always loud.
My ex was fat (her description not mine) and I used to call her a fog horn :)
Vince, I already said this and will say again: buy soldering paste. It is much easier to solder SMD components using paste. Especially if you solder using under a microscope and using the thinnest and pointiest soldering tip you have. Instead of huge and ugly solder blobs, you will get nice factory-looking solder joins.
Could you heat the solder paste with an iron or would a hot air station work better??
Great job =D The one thing I would have done differently - not covered those tantalums with kapton tape - just because it will help contain the heat! Super looking forward to that other YLOD PS3! I think the one I have here to look at is probably just the laser =/ Makes you wonder how many of the ones previously "reflowed" are these caps that were the real issue?
Thought the same on the tape part ^^ let the heat go mate ! ;)
Isn't the intention behind using the tape to prevent shorts with the metal shield ? After all there are big blobs of solder there.
@@AngaarUriakhil yes
one problem though, the caps will touch the metal shielding and could short out. I remember this when doing the same repair a couple of years ago
First you made caterpillar from connector, now a growing tree from capacitors :D This made my day :D This board has very large heat dissipation pads so low temps here might not be sufficient, you can test surface temperature with probe, solder melts around 200C (typically 187C) so you can see when surface barely get to that temp. Anyway you getting better. However, on low voltage-high current devices, resistance between power rails is very low, probably around 10-50 Ohms, if you don't measure 0 Ohms or close to 0 then there is no short as you see it works even when you think you measured short. multimeter will beep on everything lower than 50 Ohms.
Did i see a 3.4x firmware ? U can jailbreak the ps3 till firmware 3.55 very easy lol. Just saying xD. Good video Vince!!!!
You can jailbreak any firmware easy now ;)
It's the gpu with the chips and adhesive. You do absolutely do NOT need to replace the glue on reassembly. That also applies to the cpu,... there is no need to replace the silicone adhesive that holds that down. The new paste and heatsink will hold the ihs onto both chips just fine. You should however always replace the paste under both the ihs's as it dries out over time and becomes ineffective, thus overheating the console and causing potential damage.....
Brother look, the thru holes were all connected on the same ground/pos plane. What probably would have been a bit more "elegant" solution would have simply to have oriented the caps north south/ or up down (by this I mean straight up/down in perpindicular to the long pads and just soldered to the thru-holes. They are electrically exactly the same as the long pads the original caps were on and would have allowed a very easy solution rather than the whole "angled" connection to the original parallel pads. The thru holes would have made excellent condution and soldering pads (I have used them many many times) and would have easily been able to solder with just the iron and not air. That is the solution I would have used.
I am going to produce a set of videos in the next month based just on soldering. starting from the very basic (this is a soldering iron) to the very complex (this is high reliability soldering at both the smb and micro level to wired connections both plug ended soldered and crimped) with the various soldering crimping techniques, where and when each are appropriate etc. To do this I have been collecting over the last year various tools just to demonstrate with. I have my own set of things I have bought over the years but for example how does a normal person afford say a Hakko rework kit rather than a cheaper Chinese knock-off. So I have purchased several broken Hakko sets and I'm going to show how someone might go about "quite cheaply" collecting very good, high quality tools for themselves. Delsoldering stations, SMB rework stations, etc. Just buying the cameras for the videos, and yeah I bought several of these have provided material because I bought fairly decent but broken SLR digitals and have repaired them. So... anyway thought I would toss that out there.
He commented on this in the video, actually. He recommended it right after soldering them at angle.
Have you made the videos?
Another great video, Very interesting to see the fix working, Maybe find someone that will play it for a week and keep us updated as to how long it lasts etc.
I'm very curious about this fix as I have one is the PS2 models I'd love to get working again. I never got rid of it in hopes one day somebody would figure out what was truly going on.
@@vaxick Worth a shot I would think
Thank-you so muh for this video - I learnt so much. It was also refreshing to find someone else with this problem because it is so hard to diagnose I never thought that it might be a capaitor problem, as none of the other sites that i have sen have said that it might be a prolem.
.
Once I will give it a try when i have sourced applicable capcitora.
Honestly I would have went through the trouble to replace all caps that might give an issue in the future for higher quality ones. The NEC/Tokin ones are known to fail at some point.
Still very quiet for a PS3 system. Mine was so loud we couldn’t even talk in the same room and 💥 it ylod on me. Got it working again though. Replaced all thermal pads and paste and the two capacitors like you showed and was all good.
Collin was amazing (both the rally driver and some of the games - since i only played fist two those are the ones i approve of)
I have a ps3 that I fixed by replacing the NEC tokin capacitors. Oddly the first time I fixed it with a used original NEC tokin capacitor, it worked for a month or so(but only a few hours usage total) then was having intermittent YLOD (would turn on for 1 to 2 minutes then YLOD and turn off).. so I opened it up and used just the iron and flux to solder the tantalum capacitors on it.. it worked for a day, then did the 1 to 2 minute thing again so I went full out and used all the tools this time (the heat gun melted the solder and I got much better connections)and made sure everything was fluxed and soldered really well.. well low and behold it has been running 3 hours a day for 3 days and been fine. I'm not sure if I should sell it though given its history because normally I sell these backwards compatible consoles for 150 to 200 but this one I'm worried it would break on the person that buys it even though I THINK it is good to go now. Maybe sell it for 100 with cords and controller? I'm wondering what I should do lol
Yes plz sell it. I want a backwards compatible PS3. $100 is good. And what model is it??
@@BigeSnek I sold it. It was a 60gb model. I may do more of these in the future
Cortland Gambino oh, okay
How long do them capacitors last? Also, do you need to remove the old ones, or can you just solder a bit of wire to the board and to the new capacitors?
Tantalum capacitors can last around 20 years, and while you could solder wires in there too, there would be very little room to do so
It's generally considered better to let the heatsink pressure spread the thermal paste out- you don't get bubbles trapped that way
For smaller heatsinks yes but for such a large area such as these I'd guess you'd have a much harder time spreading it evenly with that method.
Awesome so replacing tokins from that side will fix it hopefully and what about the tokins on the other side I mean on the rear there the GPU is placed. I have never seen some one replacing it... Are they originally in parallel so changing one side is enough??
That Gran Turismo update only brought it up to 3.50. That system is a prime candidate for some custom firmware, since it is still running below 3.55. If resale is on your mind, make sure to mention the firmware number. It could get you a few extra bucks.
Hey, Vince, i have accidentally bought A 476 47UF 6.3V instead of the 477 you're using. Do you think these caps i got would still work? Seems they're half the physical size of what you worked with in the video.
did they work?
@@SirZanZa I still havent replaced them. Totally forgot about them actually until you messaged :D
Boa noite
Parabéns pelo vídeo e pela qualidade do serviço
The system software update is stored on the gt5 disc that’s how it updated it.
Thanks for the video Vince. I'm waiting for caps to arrive from China to replace those NEC/TOKIN caps on a PS3 with the yellow light of death.
How’d it go?
@@eyesvisionsight Worked like a charm! Although I struggled soldering the caps but after a bit fiddling, it worked
mthanry bruhhhh can you link me the caps you used? How many do I need?
@@eyesvisionsight type tantulum 470uf 6v on Ebay
Bibah Videos thank you!!! I wanna fix my old ps3 fat. My brother gave it to me long ago and it was his friends. He had lots of memories with it so I wanna do it for his bday today which is today. It’ll be a late present but nonetheless nice to do
Hi Vince, is the PS3 still working? Just wondering how long it lasted.
Very interesting video! I've been given a fat PS3 that had the YLoD and I'm planning on replacing the capacitors. I've checked on ebay, and I've found some Tantalum 470uf 10v close to where I live. Is the 10v gonna be a problem? How many capacitors should I replace and for how many should I replace them?
As long as you’re using Solid SMD 470uf tantalum capacitors. You can use any with a voltage rating at or above 2volts. You can use 16v if you had to... The voltage is just the amount the chip can handle before it burns out. I ordered some 10 volt on eBay and they worked fine. You can also solder the new capacitors straight instead of crooked by scratching some of the green off the board where the holes are at so they fit. As long as you scratch inside the marked area you will be okay. Just do the positive ends and use the original negative plates. I’m not sure what voltage is actually running through the chips but it’s probably around 1 volt give or take which is why I would just get some 2 volt or higher.
cpu and gpu power caps are always beeping in diode mode because these lines are very low on ohms... just test it on every mainboard, always the same. thats no error just ohms‘ law
I'm looking forward to seeing if it's the capacitors rather than the chips got 3 of the children's phat ps3s now to look at its confidence in having a go but its getting better thanks to watching your well explained video's
Will upgrade mine too when they arrive...
Nice fix Vince! Glad you stuck with it and tried every possibility after repairing the last one the same way. Hopefully this will give a few other peoples dead playstations another lease of life.
Haha no I don't think there is much of a market for fake caps when there is such a huge market for really shitty ones like those NEC Tokins but then I am often wrong. Thanks for the advice on replacements maybe they will save one of these backward compatible ones I saved from the scrap heap, and are stuck in failure syndromes I would certainly expect from shorted out power supply caps.
It seems to me what is happening here is that the CPU and GPU are slowly frying their own caps starting about two minutes after you power them on. So it is only a matter of time until you run into the MTBF due to electrolytic breakdown which I'm guessing is cut in half by every 10C increase in temperature going by the rule of thumb of rate of chemical processes.
I would hope they would be at max 85C rather than 95 but given this cooling solution, consisting of a fan that blows air orthagonal to the board, does not have the intake and outlet on opposite sides of the case, and has a factory setting that prioritizes not making noise over not frying the board, I wouldn't be surprised, it's practically designed to fail.
The paste on top of the lids was certainly cooked well-done in the center on mine indicating 95, changing it was enough to save a CECHL model with an overheating GPU that hadn't got to the caps, but not the backward compatible models with the additional giant heat generating PS2 chip(s) that probably did. I shudder to think what is under the lids, but even more at what would probably happen if I tried to remove them so I'll change the caps, pray for the best and expect the worst
when the capacitors are seated, you can use both your iron tip and the hot air gun on the joint to help the solder to melt and make a good bond. The hot air gun prevents the iron tip's temperature to drop too much when it touches the solder
You could also just use a bigger tip and more heat on your soldering iron. Also investing in a preheater would help.
Just a thought, would it make a neater job to solder multiple thin wires to the underside of the cap and solder the other end into the board holes or long pads directly, then just glue it all down to stop shorts? I'm about to fix a couple so advice would be appreciated.
Have you tried to solder the new capacitors in parallel, ie "Piggyback" method?
He didn’t put bridges at the new capacitors so is it necessary to do that
Cool video man I know it's old but I enjoyed watching it. Back in my day I soldered my own downgraders and did my own micro soldering. Used the Nor tristate and flashers to fix things. I have some old ps3 fats laying around thought I'd fix them up. I thought it would be the solder under the cpu that made the ylod but obviously I was a wrong. Thanks for the capacitor trick. I think this will be much easier I'm going to use trace lines to connect the capacitors together then bend them in the middle and they will only need 1 tack solder onto the traces. Just thought I'd share. Thanks man 😁
Why you don't change the NEC Tokin OE128 capacitors with new ones or even similar ones like VISEN.I think it would be easier.
i hope i can get in touch with u since theres a lot i wanna teach u about based on my knowledge with that suckers but so far pretty good job on the NECS :D
The caps seem to be the primary culprit, reballing not the issue per se. I imagine this can be used to restore tons of bc and fat ps3s. Displaced gamers did a great video on it. Check it out if you wanna see why those caps are the issue.
aged well
That usually means when that paste is still soft usually means that there's not a lot of hours on those chips so hopefully it's not a bad system
Vince u must have an Aladdin's cave full of consoles controllers etc haha what do u do with them all once u have repaired them? Great vid as always.
He sells them on so that he can buy more flux ;)
All those holes you see underneath are vias, and they are actually using them as heat sinks. You usually do this at the bottom of components that you know are getting too hot.
There's no hot component directly other side of these thermal vias. The two big chips, the processor and the graphics chip, sink a good bit of heat into the PCB via the power and ground pins, and the thermal vias help dissipate that heat, just so the whole board doesn't get too hot.
Is there any harm in replacing the nec tokins with new nec tokins?
Great work man!
In order for this console to be bit quieter you really need to remove IHS Plates on both chips and change the paste. There's no need to add adhesive.
really appreciate your videos this was very informative thank you 👍
For the PS3 fan noise, some of the older ones need delidding and repasting to help thermal transfer then the fan won't have to work so hard
Just had my CECHA de-lidded and it's much quieter
So phat model come with 1200uf if you divide that you have to many of the 470uf on those rails, also be easer to put 4 330uf as there smaller easy to and cheaper?
If you still got the PS3, install a 100k potentioresistor so you can adjust the fan speed where it's not as obnoxious but still good airflow.
I fixed mine by doing this!! Thank you so much!!!!
did youy use exact same capacitoras? Some say 330 uf others 470, and what type of case are they? D?
@@flyingmalkie4346 i ordered the 470uf 6.3v type D from ebay item # 322335609193
Is it still holding up? I did mine (changed only one nec) and I died again a couple months later
Attention! I just watched a video about PS3 YLODs and what the problem could be.
As it turns out, the solder balls are *NOT* always at fault. These NEC TOKIN capacitors are “decoupling capacitors”, they store a charge so the CPU and GPU has a constant, stable voltage coming in. If they go faulty, the CPU/GPU will lose that stable voltage, and they are extremely sensitive to sudden voltage drops. *And these capacitors are notorious for breaking down!*
Not saying that the capacitors (or the lead-free solder joints) are *_the_* faults, but *some* of the possible faults. As such, don’t assume the YLOD means bad CPU/GPU solder joints or bad capacitors, assume these are mere possibilities among others (including bad cooling, power supply failure, etc.).
*This video is about that exact thing*
I'm actually interested on how you fixed the previous capacitors.
Hi Vince. Will there be a Christmas special perhaps. I'm thinking maybe buying and fixing a more powerful boat and conquering the mighty river 👍😊
A Christmas special, Vince will probably fix a broken stand leg for a Christmas tree 😎
That type of PS3 was notorious for having a loud fan.
I believe you didnt bridge the positives together. Some say that nectokin have that as an internal connection. I think that by having the original ones on the oposite side of the board ensure that connection making it work anyway. Thanks for sharing
My suggestion is try arctic silver heat sink compound and for the love that is all holy. You don't need that much. a dab the size of a BB, just one. No need to spread it around, the clamping force of the heatsink is going to spread it. Any extra is going to ooze out all over the legs of the chip. Have you ever clamped a heat sink and then unclamped it to verify that it had good spread. Try it one time. I used to work on machines that had gobs of heat sink compound all over the cpu socket. That electrically "NON-Conductive" paste plays hell on cpu's conductive pads. one dab, seat the heat sink, remove heat sink check for coverage adjust if needed.
AS5 is slightly worse than MX2 and significantly worse than MX4 and more expensive here in Europe, there's absolutely no point in using it, hasn't been for more than 10 years.
MX4 is thinner than AS5 and will easily extrude from underneath the heatsink under the pressure, so the layer thickness really isn't that big a deal, and it's probably less paste than you think due to high magnification. There's no "legs of the chip" or the socket where it would potentially interfere here. MX is filled with a ceramic so it is a perfect insulator as opposed to AS5 which has a strong capacitive coupling and is prone to promote electrical interference due to metal particulate.
PS3's cooler mounting also isn't very good so i think prespreading is likely to provide better results, as basically you never know what way the paste will go otherwise because the heatsink assembly goes on both chips at the same time but doesn't go straight down onto them.
thx that you made a revisit. i love it to finish things nicly and clean at least :)
So happy how you spread the thermal compound on the Gpu and Cpu, i was a bit worried that you would just put a little blop in the middle and think it would cover the whole heatshield haha
The fan noise is an indication that the console is on the verge of overheating.
The only way to resolve it is to de-lid both the GPU and CPU
Hi, what is name of polish to use makes shiny for ur ps3 body?
You are so cool. I love your videos. You inspired me to do a similar channel althog its on danish. Ive been going for a half year now, and my repairs is more simple. Im not so talented as you. so thanx for good content. Kh Jens
Oh, those early fat models of the PS3 were noisy! Mine sounded like an aircraft taking off.
delit CPU and RSX and its damn quit again like new :)
Sounds like a Boeing 737 MAX before the MCAS system kicks in. 😂
They were also great for heating a room in the winter.
If you turn a standard multimeter to the lowest non audible setting, positive to negative will result in 0.02 resistance compared to 0.00 on plus to plus, minus to minus, or a soldering short.
Hello sir, I have a question. If I replace one NEC/TOKIN capacitor, will not the console YLOD anymore or I have to replace all of them? Sorry for my bad english.
I didn’t know there were phat models that didn’t play PS2 games. I thought that’s why these are so desirable, because they play PS1 and PS2 games through hardware, not software emulation.
I have a launch unit that died several years ago. I might try replacing the caps and see if that’ll fix it. If not, oh well, it’s already broken...can’t really break it if it’s already broken.
the 3rd generation of fat models don't. I also just realised it the other day. I think one can differentatie them from the no of front usb ports.
After the first video I thought about doing this with mine, but after digging it out from understairs and surviving the tiger attacks, I turned it on expecting instant YLOD but instead it turned on, the fan speed just kept climbing while idling on the Crossbar menu only took like 20 seconds to reach full speed and never calmed down. Back in day I did send it off to somewhere but they cocked up and sent mine to someone else and had the balls to tell me that I still had to cough up or I wasn't getting a PS3(£25 was still cheaper than buying a new console still sucked and I wasn't happy about it) so who knows what they did to it.
@@TK-xc1tt You'd think, but it was spotless inside, I replaced the paste(with what little I had left, seemed like enough though) still no dice, doesn't matter anyway, It was just going to be a fun project.
Hey Vince, when are we gonna get a workshop tour? I think people would be interested in all the tools that you use :)
Nice video Vince, I am looking forward to the 1 pound PS3 video! Could this be your nemesis lol! :)
Question. Why did you not have to connect the positive ends together? I’ve seen another tutorial that says you have to do that
Hi, why some videos required to scratch off the board near/around the NEC Tokin capacitors but yours not required to do so?
Hey this may be a bit of a late comment but what're some of the tools you used for this? Especially that stuff you poured out of the syringe?
Thermal paste
Sorry to bother you but I need help Vince please. I've removed the old tokin caps of my PS3 but it left residual rubbish on the pads/rails which I can't seem to remove or melt it to braid it away. It's like the original Sony solder does not want to melt. (Even at temp 470) Should I keep loading them up with new solder and keep trying to melt it down. Been spending ages without joy.
How much did it cost to you? also how much would it be if we don't have soldering equipment?