Paste wax mixed with a dry lubricant, like graphite or Molybdenum powder works well. I find the dry lube helps to smooth it out, plus it'll help reduce wear over time and not attract dust.
Gotta watch this, I resell and so far this year have found 2 Wilton bullets, a The Ridge and a vintage Craftsman. One will shut but not open. Hoping this helps.
Glad I found this video finally amongst all the vice restorations. After a little over a year, I finally got my father's vice he found back in the 50's in the trash up in NY down to Texas where I live now. Any issues with using white lithium grease when I take it apart and clean it up? Have plenty from a tube I use for my 3d printer...just thought I'd ask.
After a good number of years using vices, my preference for lubrication is heavy mineral oil. I use a 250 grade, yes, that is correct, 250 weight axle oil. It's heavy enough to stay in place, but still flows enough to lubricate well. Grease isn't a good choice. Normal grease is basically mineral soap mixed with oil, on sliding surfaces it's gets displaced and over time it dries out. Anti seize greases aren't appropriate for this application either. Further advice is never to hit a vice, or the work held in it. Light tapping of work is ok but not heavy blows. If drilling or cutting work in a vice, cover the sliding surfaces with rag to prevent swarf and filings getting into sliding surfaces. Also, keep saw blades away from the jaws. When I see a vice with hacksaw marks on the top or sides of the jaws I know it's been misused. The bench vice is one of the most abused tools ever!
Don't hit the vise or anything held in it? Seriously?! That's why I bought it. Mine has a frickin' anvil on it, for God's sake. If I can break it, it's not strong enough. Good advise for a cast iron Chinese vise- perhaps.
Actually it's good advice. Hitting any cast metal you're libel to crack it. That's why you see vises with welds, they hit it, broke it and then welded it back together. Including Reeds, and other fine US made vises. Again, good advice on using oil. If you read the instructions... Or look at the side of the Reeds and other vises, they have two holes with "OIL" stamped or raised in the casting. The type vise with an anvil is a mechanics vise, it's different than a machinist vise which has no anvil. The strike area is only on the anvil, not anywhere else on the vise. These days you can't equate cheap with Chinese anymore. Anna for your info, just because it states "USA" doesn't mean the parts weren't made in China. And have been for half a century now. The Chinese are now making their own, higher quality products. Not just the cheap crap USA manufacturers designed and requested made for them to sell for high dollar in the USA. Wave a flag when you have something to wave it about. Otherwise.. you look silly.
Wow thank you this is really good advice and things that you learn with experience and I am guilty of musing my old beat up vice but I legitimately am going to take all of your advice on my new fathers day gift, I am getting where I enjoy doing things the right way and keeping things nice and not messing them up or breaking them etc, I used to leave tools outside for days never cleaned up and put things away clean but I'm coming around in my old age (I'm 35 lol) anyway thanks for the wisdom
you should try putting a square plate sandwiched between your vise and bench top. use the same mounting bolts. make the plate extend out about a foot square lining up with corner of table. now you will have a surface to hammer things on and a nifty little welding table.
Great break down and thanks for posting! A dear friend of mine just gave me one exactly like this one. It's been used hard, but still has many, many years of life. Mine does not swivel. I've tried getting that bottom center nut out but it's froze. Thanks for posting as this video is very helpful!
FYI, Instead mounting the back hold down bolt straight back like you did. Come off the corner at a 45° and you still have it close to the front and the side too. That gives you more options for holding material both on the front and the side, too.
Mines like that with the 3 holes. I didn't know the corner without a hole went to the corner of your table but I have a craftsman work bench so I wouldn't of been able to even do it that way because of the bracing.
I have always mounted my vises on the edge of my steel tables with the it is hanging over both edges on the corner and the bolts near the edges. This is on steel or wood tables about 3"" thick. I actually cut a 45 degree off the edge of the table to clap somthing all around. You never know what angle will be needed in a shop.
if you roatated the mounting holes a bit, you could get that vise over the end enough to have vertical clearance at the front of static Jaw. Wheel Bearing grease is just fine, stays in place and we are not building cupboards! Anchor that bench to the wall.
Great video. I have a spring on my screw and it snaps when I open it. I open the screw with the handle and it gets tight, then somewhat snaps open (I can see it's the spring that's triggering that). So it's not a fluid opening. Any experience with springs on the screw getting bound up. It's a craftsman 51865
Was looking for the Garage Journal link about vises that you mentioned in your video; didn't see it. I found it and thought I would post it: www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62716
Thank you very much, i made a pair with leather and glue it but it doesn`t stick. Total Fail, let seek for another protection or maybe i made something like yours.
nice video. I am in the process of setting up my own workbench and vise but Im running into a problem with the vise having four mounting points. this makes it difficult to mount it right on the edge of the table because I have put 2x6 skirt all the way around the work bench under the plywood table top for added strength. those are in the way for the washer and nut Im using to mount the vise. I suppose I could still mount it on the edge if I cut one of the mounting points off the vise and just use three out of the four.
its called rock river.. It turns out its a Chinese made vise. I was disappointed by this but its still a good sized, beastly looking vise made from iron.. it can be found if you search for "Fastenal 0269146".. I was proud of myself for finding it for $50 new on craigslist. new one cost about 170.. still, wish I had american made. Anyway, I've already figured out how to mount it. I had bought carriage bolts that looked really nice but that isnt going to work to get it right to the edge of the table... so I returned the carriage bolts and bought 4"x 1/2" diameter long lag screws, kinda like what you got.
you should be fine, i think all or most of bench vises are designed to grab and hold objects horizontally specially if you use your vise for heavy duty, then it is better if you dont put it too much on the edge of a wooden board......
If you rotate the mounting holes (if it is the rotating type) you may find 2 of the holes are closer to the base centre, allowing you to mount the static jaw past the edge of the workbench. Get 8" long Carriage bolts the size of mounting holes to hold it.
Hii, well most anti seize is aluminum dust in grease. If it corrodes into aluminum oxide, it will be abrasive. And grease is cheaper. I dont know if it could corrode. I have seen the oils wash out of antiseize, then it can get wet.
Saving up my pennies to buy 200 year old vintage vise.... And have the challenge to restoring.... I like your vise.
Paste wax mixed with a dry lubricant, like graphite or Molybdenum powder works well. I find the dry lube helps to smooth it out, plus it'll help reduce wear over time and not attract dust.
Gotta watch this, I resell and so far this year have found 2 Wilton bullets, a The Ridge and a vintage Craftsman. One will shut but not open. Hoping this helps.
Thank you! I didn't know the taper pin was there until I watched your video.
Glad I found this video finally amongst all the vice restorations. After a little over a year, I finally got my father's vice he found back in the 50's in the trash up in NY down to Texas where I live now. Any issues with using white lithium grease when I take it apart and clean it up? Have plenty from a tube I use for my 3d printer...just thought I'd ask.
Mine don’t close even after using a vice jaw sheet break on it, how do you fix this? Make it even again?
After a good number of years using vices, my preference for lubrication is heavy mineral oil. I use a 250 grade, yes, that is correct, 250 weight axle oil. It's heavy enough to stay in place, but still flows enough to lubricate well. Grease isn't a good choice. Normal grease is basically mineral soap mixed with oil, on sliding surfaces it's gets displaced and over time it dries out. Anti seize greases aren't appropriate for this application either.
Further advice is never to hit a vice, or the work held in it. Light tapping of work is ok but not heavy blows. If drilling or cutting work in a vice, cover the sliding surfaces with rag to prevent swarf and filings getting into sliding surfaces. Also, keep saw blades away from the jaws. When I see a vice with hacksaw marks on the top or sides of the jaws I know it's been misused. The bench vice is one of the most abused tools ever!
Don't hit the vise or anything held in it? Seriously?! That's why I bought it. Mine has a frickin' anvil on it, for God's sake. If I can break it, it's not strong enough. Good advise for a cast iron Chinese vise- perhaps.
@@dahut3614 yeah stupid advice indeed...
Actually it's good advice. Hitting any cast metal you're libel to crack it. That's why you see vises with welds, they hit it, broke it and then welded it back together. Including Reeds, and other fine US made vises.
Again, good advice on using oil. If you read the instructions... Or look at the side of the Reeds and other vises, they have two holes with "OIL" stamped or raised in the casting.
The type vise with an anvil is a mechanics vise, it's different than a machinist vise which has no anvil.
The strike area is only on the anvil, not anywhere else on the vise.
These days you can't equate cheap with Chinese anymore. Anna for your info, just because it states "USA" doesn't mean the parts weren't made in China. And have been for half a century now.
The Chinese are now making their own, higher quality products. Not just the cheap crap USA manufacturers designed and requested made for them to sell for high dollar in the USA.
Wave a flag when you have something to wave it about. Otherwise.. you look silly.
Wow thank you this is really good advice and things that you learn with experience and I am guilty of musing my old beat up vice but I legitimately am going to take all of your advice on my new fathers day gift, I am getting where I enjoy doing things the right way and keeping things nice and not messing them up or breaking them etc, I used to leave tools outside for days never cleaned up and put things away clean but I'm coming around in my old age (I'm 35 lol) anyway thanks for the wisdom
you should try putting a square plate sandwiched between your vise and bench top. use the same mounting bolts. make the plate extend out about a foot square lining up with corner of table. now you will have a surface to hammer things on and a nifty little welding table.
Excellent idea JD.
J D - of course - it wobbles a lot
Great break down and thanks for posting! A dear friend of mine just gave me one exactly like this one. It's been used hard, but still has many, many years of life. Mine does not swivel. I've tried getting that bottom center nut out but it's froze. Thanks for posting as this video is very helpful!
FYI, Instead mounting the back hold down bolt straight back like you did. Come off the corner at a 45° and you still have it close to the front and the side too. That gives you more options for holding material both on the front and the side, too.
Mines like that with the 3 holes. I didn't know the corner without a hole went to the corner of your table but I have a craftsman work bench so I wouldn't of been able to even do it that way because of the bracing.
I have always mounted my vises on the edge of my steel tables with the it is hanging over both edges on the corner and the bolts near the edges. This is on steel or wood tables about 3"" thick. I actually cut a 45 degree off the edge of the table to clap somthing all around. You never know what angle will be needed in a shop.
Quite thorough. Good Job!
if you roatated the mounting holes a bit, you could get that vise over the end enough to have vertical clearance at the front of static Jaw. Wheel Bearing grease is just fine, stays in place and we are not building cupboards! Anchor that bench to the wall.
Great video. I have a spring on my screw and it snaps when I open it. I open the screw with the handle and it gets tight, then somewhat snaps open (I can see it's the spring that's triggering that). So it's not a fluid opening. Any experience with springs on the screw getting bound up. It's a craftsman 51865
I got a 288 1/2 is a beast.
Do you have any knowledge of the 145? I'm looking for the screw size (diameter and length), thread type, and tpi. Thanks.
I don't know. Check out this FB group: facebook.com/groups/benchvisesforever/
Was looking for the Garage Journal link about vises that you mentioned in your video; didn't see it. I found it and thought I would post it:
www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62716
I just want to say thank you. I was looking for the link and I found the info I needed in the forum thread. You're the Man!
It's a great resource of information; glad you could use it.
"How to take apart." Another thing I'm not gonna remove.....
anyone know the history on a rock island 572 it looks almost identical to this morgan vise?
How old is your vise? Manufacturer? I think I have the same one and I have no clue about the details other than it was made in Japan.
Cheers!
Never bothered to look up its age. Mine was made in Milwaukee.
have a Morgan Chicago 4 inch made in the late 20s
no morgan was ever made in japan... only vise company i really know that did stuff in japan was babco, and they were still based in oakland.
Never going to be as smooth as if you put 3 ounces of grease in that sucker.
Hi, i like the covers for the jaws at the end of the video but, can i use or it is recomended worrking with that angles of protection?. Thanks!!.
Not sure what your question is?
Yes, the angles you use to cover the jaws, i believe a can use the vise with those angles in right?.
Thank you.
Yes, I use then to hold parts I do not want marred up.
Thank you very much, i made a pair with leather and glue it but it doesn`t stick. Total Fail, let seek for another protection or maybe i made something like yours.
Attatch the bench to Your walls studs.
nice video. I am in the process of setting up my own workbench and vise but Im running into a problem with the vise having four mounting points. this makes it difficult to mount it right on the edge of the table because I have put 2x6 skirt all the way around the work bench under the plywood table top for added strength. those are in the way for the washer and nut Im using to mount the vise. I suppose I could still mount it on the edge if I cut one of the mounting points off the vise and just use three out of the four.
+MattacksRC What brand of vice?
its called rock river.. It turns out its a Chinese made vise. I was disappointed by this but its still a good sized, beastly looking vise made from iron.. it can be found if you search for "Fastenal 0269146".. I was proud of myself for finding it for $50 new on craigslist. new one cost about 170.. still, wish I had american made.
Anyway, I've already figured out how to mount it. I had bought carriage bolts that looked really nice but that isnt going to work to get it right to the edge of the table... so I returned the carriage bolts and bought 4"x 1/2" diameter long lag screws, kinda like what you got.
+MattacksRC Thats a big vice! Glad you got it mounted. I used lag bolts on my old bench for the blind holes.
you should be fine, i think all or most of bench vises are designed to grab and hold objects horizontally specially if you use your vise for heavy duty, then it is better if you dont put it too much on the edge of a wooden board......
If you rotate the mounting holes (if it is the rotating type) you may find 2 of the holes are closer to the base centre, allowing you to mount the static jaw past the edge of the workbench. Get 8" long Carriage bolts the size of mounting holes to hold it.
how can i repair vise broken screw?
The lead screw?
MatthewMCRepair yes
What kind of vise? I'm not even sure where to get replacement parts.
MatthewMCRepair winston
A machine shop may be able to create new ACME Square Threads. Weld Eye on the end
you probably want to build an iron frame under that vise for better stability/ support bc it wobbles too much 👈
It does not wobble at all.
MatthewMCRepair - it wobbles were it seats 👀 watch the video dude
@@facesmasher4216 Well the whole bench wobbles...so what. It's been working fine for what I do.
OMG THAT IS THE SAME AS MY FAMILY EIRLOOM VICE lol well pretty much the same
Just use grease. antiseize has metal bits, might become abrasive.
+Scott Downey Intresting you mention that. The abrasive bits in antisieze are softer than the materials I am applying it to, so it should be fine.
Hii, well most anti seize is aluminum dust in grease. If it corrodes into aluminum oxide, it will be abrasive. And grease is cheaper. I dont know if it could corrode. I have seen the oils wash out of antiseize, then it can get wet.
i also use copper antiseize one, the problem with average grease is too thick so it will catch debris and dirt over time which is more abrasive...
WAX WILL NOT PROTECT IT FROM RUST KID.
Still not rusty to this day. I'm also a man now.