Hello Brian. I am simply amazed with your skill, technique and over all approach to your work. I have learned so many cool tricks to creating EVH replicas with your videos. I'm about to start putting together my 3rd VH 1 (white/black) Frankie. That being said, thank you and congratulations on such a supperb and accurate job. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Thank you very much John! I truly appreciate your kind words! I'm glad the videos have been helpful to you as well! Best of luck on your next VH1 project!!! The next "Bee" video should be finished very soon (still editing footage). Cheers!
Hahaha! I wondered if anyone would notice that detail. I did that to prevent the glove from catching the paint (like I suspected happened on the first can). 😜
That’s awesome! I wish you the best of luck. I’m glad you found the video series to be helpful. :) The next video is almost complete, btw. Just putting the finishing touches on it. Cheers!
The level of detail you’re putting in to your work is very satisfying, my OCD is very calm, lol It’s good to see there’s other people who do everything they can to get their work to this degree of perfection, I cop a lot of crap for it but yet so many trust me to work on there guitar's
Hey my friend i got my northern ash body ordered from Locke they said would be about 8 weeks going to about 6 weeks today going to be my 5150 build thanks amazing paint job i bought a 2017 evh bumblebee body looks just as good as mine
You sure know how to spray a can of clear! The second can was laying nice and flat from what can be seen in the video. I'm amazed at how it turned out after buffing, you had some pretty nasty nibs there at the end. Great job!
Thank you very much!!! You're right, that 2nd can definitely laid quite a bit nicer than the first...and I was really happy with the way it turned out overall! I nicknamed this body the "problem child" because it fought me quite a few times along the way! Ha! Thanks for watching and commenting! Cheers!
I spray model airplane Parts in an enclosed garage with no air flow this reduces bugs and nibs,& I water the floor and sweep it and keep it wet in order to reduce atmospheric particles especially if I'm using an automotive spray gun where High volumes air flow disturb the floor the walls and the roof moving debris around, my experience with the spray Max 2K clear is very positive but I would not classify it as a high-end Automotive urethane or polyurethane clear at all, it is more like a straight acrylic due to its low solids which it has to be to come out of a tiny nozzle but for small parts it works great and looks really good after it's wet sanded and Polished.. .
Thanks for sharing the tips! Yes, those are great ideas to incorporate into your painting process. There are so many variables, and you can never be too careful. Thanks for watching.
I’m inspired by your videos! I have a competition Mustang refinish and I was never happy with the stripes color. They’re too yellow green and not Daphne blue. So I’m planning on using the 741 tape to tape off the stripes. Scuff up the surface lightly. Then dust coat it with a few coats of Oxford Daphne nitro, the hit it with Oxford clear nitro. After curing I’ll wet sand and buff. Any thoughts or advice? Thanks in advance.
@@CoffeeDrinker71 yep. Nitro on nitro, worked great. Your EVH striping tutorial was very helpful! BTW, your presentation and voice are excellent. You should do more videos!
@@brywestwhit I’m glad your project worked out, and I’m happy to hear that my video was helpful! Thank you so much for the compliments! I appreciate it! Still trying to get my Nitro Bee project finished, so there will be a few more videos in the near future! Thanks for watching!!!
I've found that if it's spitting that is usually due to the tip of your finger getting in the way. As soon as I started using a spray handle on my rattle cans this problem went away.
@@CoffeeDrinker71 lol, I seen that 😆 you did a great job mentioning that in the video though, so other can be cautious. My suspicion is that's what caused the spitting in this case.
Hey Brian, to save on the amount of 2K needed, when finishing the stripe cleanup, could you immediately use the Duplicolor clear lacquer to build up a bunch of coats for future level sanding? And then after that initial clear coat has cured, do the level sanding and then do the final 2K coats?
Well that's a very good question...and unfortunately I don't have direct experience with. Some of the Duplicolor clear coats have plasticizers in them to help them flex when sprayed on an automotive panel...and I'm not sure if this straight lacquer version does too. I would highly recommend trying it out on a sample board first but that would require you to activate the can of 2K in order to test it out...so I would just proceed with caution.
Great video series! Very helpful and informative. Your video inspired me, so I started a project and took an old Charvel body apart and did a spray job on it with a nod to EVH on just the top horn. both spray colors on mine are gloss and they came out pretty smooth and level with very little nibs and such. Question> Can I spray 2k over that gloss spray paint now or do I absolutely have to wet sand it ?
That's really cool to hear that this video series inspired you! That's awesome! So, if I understand correctly, you only sprayed a few striped patterns on the upper horn...and you are wanting to spray clear coat over just that area, or are you wanting to clear coat the entire body now?
@@CoffeeDrinker71 Yeh, I wanted to do the whole body to protect it. Thank you for commenting on my video as well and offering your experienced tips on the final finishing process. I sure learned a lot from watching your videolog and how you handled things that came up during your paint and finish process. Next I have to create a section in my garage to safely be able to spray that 2k, I thought about doing it outside, but the wind has been unforgivingly intense for days now here in Nashville, so no chance there.
@@jd7295 I'm glad you are finding the video series helpful! Yeah, I know what you mean about the wind lately! It's been crazy here in Indiana as well. You're right, you wouldn't want to invest all that time and energy and then suddenly have something go wrong if you chose to spray outside! Hopefully you can build a simple makeshift area away from the wind...
@@CoffeeDrinker71 one spitty can! 3 minutes of shaking (timed) before and 3 minutes after activating (timed) nozel spitting everywhere.. lucky I started on the back. Tried cleaning the nozel, but nothing worked, defective can I guess. I used the 2nd can and it sprayed fine, but still managed to attract a lady bug and some dust trash. Thinking about clear coating over the lady bug... I'm kidding... fun fun..
@@jd7295 Oh man! Yeah...the joys of rattle can painting. Ugh...sorry you had that kind of experience. I had one spitty can too, luckily on my first can. Let it cure out and it should sink back a little bit, and should be able to level sand out those spots. Ha...on the lady bug!
so i have shot a full can of Spraymax 2k on my guitar but want to do another can to prevent sanding through. My question is when you rough up with the 600 grit do you wet sand or dry sand?
Hi Brian. For the black, I see that you used Duplicolor DAL1677 Black Gloss. Did you have any adhesion issues with the Spraymax 2K sticking to the gloss paint? Would a flat paint give the clear more to grab on to? Or is this a non-issue? I just wanted to get your take on this. I'm in the process of gearing up for my own project and i'm learning A TON from your videos. Your projects turn out amazing!!! Thank you!!
For the black...no, I have not experienced any issues with the gloss paint...but if you think the flat is a better idea then possibly try it on a sample board first. However, recently experienced an issue with the Spraymax and the yellow paint, which is strange. You might want to research this further. Perhaps scuffing the entire body would be advisable? I've heard and read conflicting information about this though.
Hello. Do you find it absolutely necessary to get really fussy and sand perfectly smooth after spraying your first can of clear coat? If there is a tiny bit of orange peel left after sanding with my 800 grit, will my second can of clear cover it up? I'm afraid of burning through to the paint. I'm using the same Spraymax 2K. Thank you
No...if you are worried about burning through then I would stop sanding. Spraying the 2nd can should cover it all up and then you can level sand again with a higher thickness built up. Good luck.
@@CoffeeDrinker71 Thank you very much for the reply Brian. I figured that may be the case, but this is my first time applying any type of spray clear coat. I must say, this product is very impressive. Thanks again!!
Hi Brian. I level sanded and realized I burned thru in 3 little spots. I touched up with paint and my question is should I scuff up the entire guitar again with 600 grit before I clear coat again? It’s perfectly level sanded already
Yes, I believe so. The PDS mentions the "assembly time" of 8-24 hours, meaning you could assemble your automotive panels back onto the vehicle within that time frame. That's all it says about full cure/dry time. So I would assume the same thing would apply here...you could spray your first 3-4 coats, then let it dry overnight, then perform the 600 grit level sanding the next day followed by your 2nd can. I just chose to wait a week in between the first and second cans due to running out of spare time to work on the project.
@@joepangrace1983 It's my pleasure, always! ;) That's cool they got back with you! Good to know about the 1500 grit. I might have assumed that would not provide sufficient "tooth" for the next layers, but if they say it will then I have to believe it. I chose the 600 grit because that is normally how I use the House of Kolor USC-01 urethane clear....plus to help level out the height differences with the edges of the stripes. 🤷♂
Hi brian I considered spray max 2 k but it is a automotive polyurathane finish personally I think the matching duplicolor perfect match clear should be fine for the clear you would just need to do the same amount of coats like 3 or 4 coats and wet sand it I used the perfect match clear on wood years ago and it was fine as well as a plastic car bumper. But I understand why you might be concerned with these you tube videos with guys moaning don't use the duplicolor clear. And Brian urathane has plastic in it including the spray max 2 k as it's automotive clear as well and designed for automotive use also it's just a 2 part catalyst polyurathane. Anyway besides that I really am enjoying watching your videos and keeping it simple for the most part as it's helping me get through all the mumbo jumbo of all the you tube nonsense over freaking paint. And while for me I don't like wood filler at all from your video I figured out after I do my linseed oil to seal my wood I can use the deft sanding sealer to seal the linseed oil in and to get the wood smooth before priming and fill in any open pores and get out rough grain textures before priming. With grey primer but for me I am working on being able to use a quart can of watco maybe satin and in a cup mix in mica grey powder to tint it grey but maybe brush it on so it sticks for the first coat then maybe spray on with my own homed brewed grey at about 4 coats total the mix up my base coat color with reducer or laquar thinner into a cup and again use a spray gun let it dry to the touch in 3 to 4 coats then use watco gloss clear without tinting for the actual clear coat mix into a cup with laquar thinner and use a spray gun and then do the normal wet sand procedure I just need to know if I will get adhesion just tinting and reducing a can of watco with grey pigment powder over the deft sanding sealer.
One thing I will caution you about is the Duplicolor Perfect Match Clear takes forever to cure out. I sprayed some on a Franky project about 10 years ago...it's never fully hardened due to the plasticizers in the formula....unless it's changed since the last time I used it.
@@CoffeeDrinker71 yes the formula changed all of them changed due to epa regulations in 2017 and the formulas changed from 1996. But I know duplicolor now has a non perfect match aycrylic laquar I am going to be testing also rustoleum has an automotive laquar as well. In a can anyway sorry for sounding a bit mad but I am sick of all the junk and nonsense I am seeing on you tube trashing laquar and pushing expensive automotive based stuff meant for cars like ppg on over stuff like mohawk classic instrument laquar or even stew mac with thier stuff which is just marked up mohawk stuff which used to be behlen. Or the problems with getting matching products. Anyway maybe you could test the watco clear brushing laquar gloss over duplicolor but with watco you can't use a foam brush you have to use a bristle brush. Unlike the deft sanding sealer anyway I have a can of duplicolor perfect match clear that's from 2005 formulation that I can test but most likely I will have to do really light coats of it to get it to dry I did test my basecoat without spraying primer first on a, stick and that did dry but I need to test my scratch filler primer old formula from 2005 on a stick and the 3 together before I put on guitar body and I need to get another can of the base coat which is gm code bright aqua which is extremely hard to get but no way I am paying 18 dollars again on Amazon for that I will try the Napa parts store near me or just order it from the auto zone near me over the border. Which is the place that seems to have stock of the 2005 versions of duplicolor before the formulations got messed with. And that's okay to change formulas but the chalenge then becomes finding one brand and sticking with it and that's the problem now and that'd why I am so frustrated plus the stores not carrying everything in the system and then forcing people on Amazon where they mark up the prices. So for example minwax at Lowes and home depot you can get the minwax clear brushing laquar no problem but the minwax laquar sanding sealer nope forced on Amazon where it's marked up to 30 dollars a quart can. And at both Lowes and homedepot they only have the minwax polyurathane sanding sealer that's water based you can't use that with tung oil or boiled linseed oil or laquar. Or even mohawk removed the behlen laquar sanding sealer. So right now the choices are deft sanding sealer on Amazon minwax laquar sanding sealer on Amazon or varathane which is a rustoloem brand universal sanding sealer at homedepot. And that's my point now watco which is a rusteleum brand also used to sell a tintable laquar that's been discontinued again and only seem to have the clear brushable laquar to sell in a, quart can but then it says per epa regulations do not reduce but you can reduce it with laquar thinner. And that's why I get so frustrated plus hearing all these guys trash laquar or continue to call the laquar just nitrocelulose like it is 1950s laquar ohh and all laquar is nitrocelulose based but it's not the same stuff or formula ohh and acrylic is a modify er based on certain chemical compositions which all laquars now have in them. It's just how certain companies formulate them and that's my point they spend too much time getting into technical jargon VS focusing on does it work not work is the person who actually plays the instrument like what you are doing. And that's another factor too for example. if Eddie were around still and one of these guys told him laquar sucks I will only build you a guitar with polyurathane finish and bury the neck in polyurathane Eddie would tell the guy to go screw himself and tell him you do it my way or your not building me a guitar and Eddie hated laquar on his fretboards and necks or at least he did not like how Kramer did that to his 5150 guitar or they put to much laquar on so he ended doing weird stuff just to get all that excess laquar off. And that's another point too.
How long did you/should you leave the garage door open to be fully in the "clear" after this type of small job? Do I need to get rid of the Tyvek suit after each job? Thanks Brian C and ALL in advance. I am doing a very similar job and want to be safe as a beginner.
I would leave the garage open for as long as it takes for the fumes to go away (maybe an hour?). It really depends on your climate and air flow. No, you can re-use the suit. It's just a barrier between the paint and your body...so you can use as long as it's in good shape. ;) Good luck on your project.
Hello Brian. I am simply amazed with your skill, technique and over all approach to your work. I have learned so many cool tricks to creating EVH replicas with your videos. I'm about to start putting together my 3rd VH 1 (white/black) Frankie. That being said, thank you and congratulations on such a supperb and accurate job. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Thank you very much John! I truly appreciate your kind words! I'm glad the videos have been helpful to you as well! Best of luck on your next VH1 project!!! The next "Bee" video should be finished very soon (still editing footage). Cheers!
I'm eagerly waiting for the final results, Brian.
I love the "PPE is necessary" bit on the first can. No gloves on the second can. :) Great work, as always, brother.
Hahaha! I wondered if anyone would notice that detail. I did that to prevent the glove from catching the paint (like I suspected happened on the first can). 😜
Brian, Thank you for the great video lesson, im starting my project now from scratch. thank you again for the videos.
That’s awesome! I wish you the best of luck. I’m glad you found the video series to be helpful. :) The next video is almost complete, btw. Just putting the finishing touches on it. Cheers!
Absolutely fantastic work my man👍
Thank you so much! I appreciate it. This one definitely had it's share of challenges.
The level of detail you’re putting in to your work is very satisfying, my OCD is very calm, lol
It’s good to see there’s other people who do everything they can to get their work to this degree of perfection, I cop a lot of crap for it but yet so many trust me to work on there guitar's
I'm glad you enjoyed the videos..and I'm glad you understand and appreciate the OCD aspect of this. ;) Thank you!!
Hey my friend i got my northern ash body ordered from Locke they said would be about 8 weeks going to about 6 weeks today going to be my 5150 build thanks amazing paint job i bought a 2017 evh bumblebee body looks just as good as mine
Awesome!!! :)
You sure know how to spray a can of clear! The second can was laying nice and flat from what can be seen in the video. I'm amazed at how it turned out after buffing, you had some pretty nasty nibs there at the end. Great job!
Thank you very much!!! You're right, that 2nd can definitely laid quite a bit nicer than the first...and I was really happy with the way it turned out overall! I nicknamed this body the "problem child" because it fought me quite a few times along the way! Ha! Thanks for watching and commenting! Cheers!
I spray model airplane Parts in an enclosed garage with no air flow this reduces bugs and nibs,& I water the floor and sweep it and keep it wet in order to reduce atmospheric particles especially if I'm using an automotive spray gun where High volumes air flow disturb the floor the walls and the roof moving debris around, my experience with the spray Max 2K clear is very positive but I would not classify it as a high-end Automotive urethane or polyurethane clear at all,
it is more like a straight acrylic due to its low solids which it has to be to come out of a tiny nozzle but for small parts it works great and looks really good after it's wet sanded and Polished.. .
Thanks for sharing the tips! Yes, those are great ideas to incorporate into your painting process. There are so many variables, and you can never be too careful. Thanks for watching.
I’m inspired by your videos! I have a competition Mustang refinish and I was never happy with the stripes color. They’re too yellow green and not Daphne blue. So I’m planning on using the 741 tape to tape off the stripes. Scuff up the surface lightly. Then dust coat it with a few coats of Oxford Daphne nitro, the hit it with Oxford clear nitro. After curing I’ll wet sand and buff. Any thoughts or advice? Thanks in advance.
Hmmm...just make sure the original paint that you are spraying over is compatible with your nitro!
@@CoffeeDrinker71 yep. Nitro on nitro, worked great. Your EVH striping tutorial was very helpful! BTW, your presentation and voice are excellent. You should do more videos!
@@brywestwhit I’m glad your project worked out, and I’m happy to hear that my video was helpful! Thank you so much for the compliments! I appreciate it! Still trying to get my Nitro Bee project finished, so there will be a few more videos in the near future! Thanks for watching!!!
I've found that if it's spitting that is usually due to the tip of your finger getting in the way. As soon as I started using a spray handle on my rattle cans this problem went away.
Great tip!! Yeah, I agree..when I pulled my gloves off, I noticed my finger tip must've been accidentally getting in the way!
@@CoffeeDrinker71 lol, I seen that 😆 you did a great job mentioning that in the video though, so other can be cautious. My suspicion is that's what caused the spitting in this case.
Definitely like the nitro better 👍🏼
Hey Brian, to save on the amount of 2K needed, when finishing the stripe cleanup, could you immediately use the Duplicolor clear lacquer to build up a bunch of coats for future level sanding?
And then after that initial clear coat has cured, do the level sanding and then do the final 2K coats?
Well that's a very good question...and unfortunately I don't have direct experience with. Some of the Duplicolor clear coats have plasticizers in them to help them flex when sprayed on an automotive panel...and I'm not sure if this straight lacquer version does too. I would highly recommend trying it out on a sample board first but that would require you to activate the can of 2K in order to test it out...so I would just proceed with caution.
Great video series! Very helpful and informative. Your video inspired me, so I started a project and took an old Charvel body apart and did a spray job on it with a nod to EVH on just the top horn. both spray colors on mine are gloss and they came out pretty smooth and level with very little nibs and such. Question> Can I spray 2k over that gloss spray paint now or do I absolutely have to wet sand it ?
That's really cool to hear that this video series inspired you! That's awesome! So, if I understand correctly, you only sprayed a few striped patterns on the upper horn...and you are wanting to spray clear coat over just that area, or are you wanting to clear coat the entire body now?
@@CoffeeDrinker71 Yeh, I wanted to do the whole body to protect it. Thank you for commenting on my video as well and offering your experienced tips on the final finishing process. I sure learned a lot from watching your videolog and how you handled things that came up during your paint and finish process. Next I have to create a section in my garage to safely be able to spray that 2k, I thought about doing it outside, but the wind has been unforgivingly intense for days now here in Nashville, so no chance there.
@@jd7295 I'm glad you are finding the video series helpful! Yeah, I know what you mean about the wind lately! It's been crazy here in Indiana as well. You're right, you wouldn't want to invest all that time and energy and then suddenly have something go wrong if you chose to spray outside! Hopefully you can build a simple makeshift area away from the wind...
@@CoffeeDrinker71 one spitty can! 3 minutes of shaking (timed) before and 3 minutes after activating (timed) nozel spitting everywhere.. lucky I started on the back. Tried cleaning the nozel, but nothing worked, defective can I guess. I used the 2nd can and it sprayed fine, but still managed to attract a lady bug and some dust trash. Thinking about clear coating over the lady bug... I'm kidding... fun fun..
@@jd7295 Oh man! Yeah...the joys of rattle can painting. Ugh...sorry you had that kind of experience. I had one spitty can too, luckily on my first can. Let it cure out and it should sink back a little bit, and should be able to level sand out those spots. Ha...on the lady bug!
so i have shot a full can of Spraymax 2k on my guitar but want to do another can to prevent sanding through. My question is when you rough up with the 600 grit do you wet sand or dry sand?
The chapter starting at 12:45 shows the way I did this step. I wet sanded with 600 grit after the first can. Hope that helps!
Hi Brian. For the black, I see that you used Duplicolor DAL1677 Black Gloss. Did you have any adhesion issues with the Spraymax 2K sticking to the gloss paint? Would a flat paint give the clear more to grab on to? Or is this a non-issue? I just wanted to get your take on this. I'm in the process of gearing up for my own project and i'm learning A TON from your videos. Your projects turn out amazing!!! Thank you!!
For the black...no, I have not experienced any issues with the gloss paint...but if you think the flat is a better idea then possibly try it on a sample board first. However, recently experienced an issue with the Spraymax and the yellow paint, which is strange. You might want to research this further. Perhaps scuffing the entire body would be advisable? I've heard and read conflicting information about this though.
Hello. Do you find it absolutely necessary to get really fussy and sand perfectly smooth after spraying your first can of clear coat? If there is a tiny bit of orange peel left after sanding with my 800 grit, will my second can of clear cover it up? I'm afraid of burning through to the paint. I'm using the same Spraymax 2K. Thank you
No...if you are worried about burning through then I would stop sanding. Spraying the 2nd can should cover it all up and then you can level sand again with a higher thickness built up. Good luck.
@@CoffeeDrinker71 Thank you very much for the reply Brian. I figured that may be the case, but this is my first time applying any type of spray clear coat. I must say, this product is very impressive. Thanks again!!
Hey mate, did you sand the base coat before hitting it with the 2K clear? Thanks.
Hello! No, I decided not to sand the base coat. I've read mixed guidance on whether or not it's advisable to do that.
Did you do any sanding before applying the clear coat, or can you get away with skipping sanding?
I did not sand the base coat before the clear.
Hi Brian. I level sanded and realized I burned thru in 3 little spots. I touched up with paint and my question is should I scuff up the entire guitar again with 600 grit before I clear coat again? It’s perfectly level sanded already
Hmmm....ok. What grit did you use for the level sanding step?
I ended with 800 it’s really smooth. I scuffed up the surface and just sprayed more layers of clear hopping for the best. I’ll check it in 3 days
@@372trip2 Ok, hopefully it will adhere and be totally fine afterwards. That would have been my best suggestion anyway.
Brian could you have wet sanded and applied more coats after 24 hours? I thought the dry time with this stuff is 24hrs?
Yes, I believe so. The PDS mentions the "assembly time" of 8-24 hours, meaning you could assemble your automotive panels back onto the vehicle within that time frame. That's all it says about full cure/dry time. So I would assume the same thing would apply here...you could spray your first 3-4 coats, then let it dry overnight, then perform the 600 grit level sanding the next day followed by your 2nd can. I just chose to wait a week in between the first and second cans due to running out of spare time to work on the project.
@@CoffeeDrinker71 thanks! Youre always so helpful. Yes actually spray max got back to me and said just scuff with p1500 and spray again in 24 hours.
@@joepangrace1983 It's my pleasure, always! ;) That's cool they got back with you! Good to know about the 1500 grit. I might have assumed that would not provide sufficient "tooth" for the next layers, but if they say it will then I have to believe it. I chose the 600 grit because that is normally how I use the House of Kolor USC-01 urethane clear....plus to help level out the height differences with the edges of the stripes. 🤷♂
@@CoffeeDrinker71 i think the P1500 is a european measurement. It looks like thats equivalent to 800 grit American
@@joepangrace1983 Ooooooh! That makes much more sense!! Ha!! Thanks!!!!
Have u sprayed cars?
Not professionally....I've only done some small projects as a hobby over the years.
Hi brian I considered spray max 2 k but it is a automotive polyurathane finish personally I think the matching duplicolor perfect match clear should be fine for the clear you would just need to do the same amount of coats like 3 or 4 coats and wet sand it I used the perfect match clear on wood years ago and it was fine as well as a plastic car bumper. But I understand why you might be concerned with these you tube videos with guys moaning don't use the duplicolor clear.
And Brian urathane has plastic in it including the spray max 2 k as it's automotive clear as well and designed for automotive use also it's just a 2 part catalyst polyurathane.
Anyway besides that I really am enjoying watching your videos and keeping it simple for the most part as it's helping me get through all the mumbo jumbo of all the you tube nonsense over freaking paint.
And while for me I don't like wood filler at all from your video I figured out after I do my linseed oil to seal my wood I can use the deft sanding sealer to seal the linseed oil in and to get the wood smooth before priming and fill in any open pores and get out rough grain textures before priming.
With grey primer but for me I am working on being able to use a quart can of watco maybe satin and in a cup mix in mica grey powder to tint it grey but maybe brush it on so it sticks for the first coat then maybe spray on with my own homed brewed grey at about 4 coats total the mix up my base coat color with reducer or laquar thinner into a cup and again use a spray gun let it dry to the touch in 3 to 4 coats then use watco gloss clear without tinting for the actual clear coat mix into a cup with laquar thinner and use a spray gun and then do the normal wet sand procedure I just need to know if I will get adhesion just tinting and reducing a can of watco with grey pigment powder over the deft sanding sealer.
One thing I will caution you about is the Duplicolor Perfect Match Clear takes forever to cure out. I sprayed some on a Franky project about 10 years ago...it's never fully hardened due to the plasticizers in the formula....unless it's changed since the last time I used it.
@@CoffeeDrinker71 yes the formula changed all of them changed due to epa regulations in 2017 and the formulas changed from 1996. But I know duplicolor now has a non perfect match aycrylic laquar I am going to be testing also rustoleum has an automotive laquar as well. In a can anyway sorry for sounding a bit mad but I am sick of all the junk and nonsense I am seeing on you tube trashing laquar and pushing expensive automotive based stuff meant for cars like ppg on over stuff like mohawk classic instrument laquar or even stew mac with thier stuff which is just marked up mohawk stuff which used to be behlen. Or the problems with getting matching products. Anyway maybe you could test the watco clear brushing laquar gloss over duplicolor but with watco you can't use a foam brush you have to use a bristle brush. Unlike the deft sanding sealer anyway I have a can of duplicolor perfect match clear that's from 2005 formulation that I can test but most likely I will have to do really light coats of it to get it to dry I did test my basecoat without spraying primer first on a, stick and that did dry but I need to test my scratch filler primer old formula from 2005 on a stick and the 3 together before I put on guitar body and I need to get another can of the base coat which is gm code bright aqua which is extremely hard to get but no way I am paying 18 dollars again on Amazon for that I will try the Napa parts store near me or just order it from the auto zone near me over the border. Which is the place that seems to have stock of the 2005 versions of duplicolor before the formulations got messed with. And that's okay to change formulas but the chalenge then becomes finding one brand and sticking with it and that's the problem now and that'd why I am so frustrated plus the stores not carrying everything in the system and then forcing people on Amazon where they mark up the prices. So for example minwax at Lowes and home depot you can get the minwax clear brushing laquar no problem but the minwax laquar sanding sealer nope forced on Amazon where it's marked up to 30 dollars a quart can. And at both Lowes and homedepot they only have the minwax polyurathane sanding sealer that's water based you can't use that with tung oil or boiled linseed oil or laquar.
Or even mohawk removed the behlen laquar sanding sealer. So right now the choices are deft sanding sealer on Amazon minwax laquar sanding sealer on Amazon or varathane which is a rustoloem brand universal sanding sealer at homedepot. And that's my point now watco which is a rusteleum brand also used to sell a tintable laquar that's been discontinued again and only seem to have the clear brushable laquar to sell in a, quart can but then it says per epa regulations do not reduce but you can reduce it with laquar thinner.
And that's why I get so frustrated plus hearing all these guys trash laquar or continue to call the laquar just nitrocelulose like it is 1950s laquar ohh and all laquar is nitrocelulose based but it's not the same stuff or formula ohh and acrylic is a modify er based on certain chemical compositions which all laquars now have in them.
It's just how certain companies formulate them and that's my point they spend too much time getting into technical jargon VS focusing on does it work not work is the person who actually plays the instrument like what you are doing. And that's another factor too for example.
if Eddie were around still and one of these guys told him laquar sucks
I will only build you a guitar with polyurathane finish and bury the neck in polyurathane Eddie would tell the guy to go screw himself and tell him you do it my way or your not building me a guitar and Eddie hated laquar on his fretboards and necks or at least he did not like how Kramer did that to his 5150 guitar or they put to much laquar on so he ended doing weird stuff just to get all that excess laquar off.
And that's another point too.
Çok güzel bir ürün fakat ne yazık ki Türkiye de yok.
That is very unfortunate. 😥😥
How long did you/should you leave the garage door open to be fully in the "clear" after this type of small job? Do I need to get rid of the Tyvek suit after each job? Thanks Brian C and ALL in advance. I am doing a very similar job and want to be safe as a beginner.
I would leave the garage open for as long as it takes for the fumes to go away (maybe an hour?). It really depends on your climate and air flow. No, you can re-use the suit. It's just a barrier between the paint and your body...so you can use as long as it's in good shape. ;) Good luck on your project.
Can you spray it over bare wood (walnut body) with a blue stained flame maple top
Great question! I'm sure it can be done! But, I have not tried it in this scenario before.