DIY Blow Through Carburetor Build For The Budget Turbo Carbureted LS | Part 3 | Proform Race Series
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- Опубликовано: 1 апр 2023
- This is the final part of the diy blow through carburetor series. In this video we will be going over how you can dial in the transition circuit on the secondary side of the carburetor. We will be going over the primary to secondary linkage as well as showing you where modifications need to be made on the new carburetor. We will also be recapping how to do basic tuning and I will offer guidance on what to do when you start to get everything together. This is the most important video by far but this series is just an intro course. Once you get the idea of what needs to be done, the real work can begin. turbo carburetor is basically done!
I don't think I really need to say this but if you mod you carburetor for blow through, you void any warranty that applies to the carb. DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!
Recap from part 2:
Today we are diving into the second part of building a budget carburetor for turbocharging your own engine. In this video we will be getting deeper into the boost activated power valve or boost referenced power valve. Will will also be talking about the power valve restrictor channels in the metering block of the carburetor as well as the idle feel restrictors at the top of the metering block. The new carburetor that I am building is a 750 E85 race series carburetor by the guys over at @PROFORMParts
Recap from part 1:
Today I will be showing you guys how to build your very own diy blow through carburetor. The carburetor we are working with is an old school barry grant 650 demon. This particular demon was an alcohol carburetor that I had converted to gasoline and then later converted to e85. I've been running this set up for about 7 months and so far I've had no issues. Last time I was on the dyno I put down 529hp and 509lb ft of torque. Engine specs are stage 1 cam (.553/.553 208/212 112LSA), carbureted dual plane intake, 2 inch spacer, 4 inch carb hat spacer, budget turbo carb hat, ebay 78/75 turbo, shorty headers, stock bottom end, stock 862 heads with valve springs, Daytona sensors LS2 coils, Daytona sensors smart spark LS ignition system. This is only part one of the carburetor build on the junkyard LS. Part 2 coming out soon.
#turbols #carburetedls #proformparts
Parts List:
Nitrophyl Floats(not notched):
amzn.to/3zoDkRm
Budget Carb Hat:
amzn.to/3nDLTor
Carb Hat Riser
amzn.to/40TpQJ3
1" Open Carb Spacer
amzn.to/3KmtrK4
Base plate(no vacuum ports)
amzn.to/3KlVkSx
Boost Activated Power Valve
amzn.to/3nyR7SC
Tiny Drill Bit Set
amzn.to/3TWdKwc
Bigger Drill Bit Set
amzn.to/3G5noHp
Holley Carburetor Jetting kit:
amzn.to/40AkN0b
Pin gauge set(small)
amzn.to/3ZvPRN6
Pin gauge set(large)
amzn.to/3Zu5kNU
Wide Band:
tinyurl.com/2p9dnwss
Smart Spark LS Ignition System
tinyurl.com/ez9dxjrm
Smart Spark 4.8/5.3/6.0 Harness
tinyurl.com/33nxaa6d
SSLS LS2 Coils
tinyurl.com/mvrafs8f
Proform Gasoline Carburetor
amzn.to/40MAoto
JMS FuelMAX(Fuel Pump Booster)
www.jmschip.com/product/fuelm... 
Авто/Мото
After 3 videos, I am starting to get a base line on blowthru 101. The picture of idle to transition to part throttle cruise to full power is a bit clearer. I have always run mild VS carbs, to there is a bit to learn there too, but that's ok too.
You need to fabricate vent tube extensions on your carb. Run them into your bonnet a few inchs. Then you can rejet the carb closer to the stock jetting. I run a Procharged 355 on the street. Drives and idles great. Proform 750 center section, annular discharge with billet base plate.
Very nice, I havnt experimented with the extensions yet. My truck is a manual 5 speed on offroad tires so the tuning gets much trickier during low RPM heavy throttle. I know the extensions help under boost but I havnt seen them make any difference while driving around off boost
Killer Info Man. Im just getting into Carb Tuuning and this is GOLD even for a Novice like me!
Thank you! I hope it helps in the future!
You were right it is mind blowing stuff, the huge ifr size makes sense now
Theres even more info but its 🤐
@@adamballinger1358 yea I tried messing with the air bleeds and it just scrambled the hole tune, I was able to get it running to being streetable with just jets, ifr that early activation of the secondaries and that's it
I don't think I really need to say this but if you mod you carburetor for blow through, you void any warranty that applies to the carb. DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!
If you missed out on part 2, there it is! ruclips.net/video/IzVyM-tTw_M/видео.html
I always take cylinder placement into consideration when thinking about heat retention in that particular part of the block, and which cylinders would fail first if it goes lean. With this its safe to assume the hottest leanest cylinders will fail first. This was applied when I was analyzing the engine failure in a turbo 5.3L that had rear cylinder failure on a VERY under-fueled setup. I have yet to test injectors, but I believe the design of the dead-head fuel rail on the LS car manifold, paired with boost, and a return line added in a poor location leads me to believe the rear two went lean and failed due to either vapor lock or poor circulation and flow at the end of the rail.
Yeah, plug readings have to be taken very seriously especially when youre building that much cyl pressure
It's smart to point out that fuel injection and carburetors can fail in different ways yet lead to similar consequences or damage.
What about boosting the 2nd and 3rd 2GC carbs on a Pontiac tripower setup? You can adjust linkage for tip in. I have mine at 50% on one car and 60% on another.
The issue with boosting multiple carbs is getting them to flow the same amount of fuel for good fuel distribution. I tried it on a dual quad and it didn't really work well. Some cyls were going dead lean
👍👍💪💪
Double emojis, must of been a good video 🤔
Just curios on which metering block you use for e-85 , do you use the ones drill for alcohol or gas jetting?...Thanks
For my demon I used the Alcohol metering blocks and for the proform I used the factory E85 metering blocks. You can acomplish it by drilling out the stock metering block. I'll make a video on that for you guys
@@NightWrencher Thanks for that quick response, I'll be watching for it👍.
NightWrencher hello, I have question possibly you can help me out with , for one I know very little about carburetors , my question is I have a 327 , bored 30 over with a Holley 650 double pumper 80670-4 1308 the carburetor was running rich buddy of mine changed the jets to 63 primary 65 Sec,and timed the motor seemed to help a little …But now the problem is when I crack the Secondary’s it want too drop Rpm’s wop bam wop bam …..lol I don’t know how else to exsplain it lol , but the damn thing idles fine and smooth in the primary stage until cracked into Secondary stage do you have any suggestions that might help Nightwrencher , my buddy was saying something about a lighter Acc pump secondary spring dose this make sense or is just a bunch of Mumbo Jumbo waste of time , then he was telling if that didn’t work that i probably need 750 dbl ….I just don’t want to waste any more time or money trying to figure this out the cam in the motor is 560 ? ,so I guess Night Wrencher if anybody could possibly give the right path would hopefully be you ….Thanks Nightwrencher I really appreciate your time and help……Ron 👍
Hey Ron, first off thats not a 650 double pumper. Thats a dual feed 670cfm vacuum secondary carburetor, not a double pumper. Double pumper means accelerator pump on the primary and secondaey bowls. If it has a big vacuum pod on the side then its a vacuum secondary carburetor. Second, since its a vacuum secondary carburetor, even if you suddenly stomp on the gas, there is a delay before the secondaries keep up with the primaries. What I think your buddy meant was a lighter vaccum diaphram spring. In my opinion, that would make the problem worse. Sounds like youre leaning out when the secondaries come in so that would cause the shaking/popping. A lighter secondary spring means the secondaries come in faster which would cause the lean spike to get worse. I would go with a HEAVIER secondary spring so the secondaries open smoother but also jet up 3-4 sizes in the rear and then go from there
If you have the secondary side IFR that much larger then the primary. The idle mix screw (in the secondary) can't be turned out hardly at all correct?
That is 100% correct
@NightWrencher Nice! That's a great idea! How are your crusing AFR's? Like hwy speed(50-60mph) I've been trying to keep afresh leaner the 12.5 just crusing. But then really runinto issues with trasntion (have BRPV up front.
I try to keep my cruising AFR around 13.5-14. I even tow with my truck for several hundred miles at a time and highest I see is 14.2. Going up steap grades with a 3k lb trailer I go into boost without issue(steady 2-3lbs all the way up). Make sure you leave yourself enough slack in the primaries to prevent going into the secondaries when not needed. I have my secondary idle screws out about an 8th of a turn.
Which F1 team you work for?
No F1 team unfortunately 😂
Your understanding of suspension dynamics suggests you sbold be
You got game . Step Strong Brother.