I can't thank you enough! When I made candles years ago I never heard of doing power burns which is crazy because I myself can be a power burner! I also never heard anyone talk about checking the temp of the jar. Because of your channel, I am now doing both of these now that I've gotten back into candle making. Absolutely grateful for the time you put in to making these videos and I hope you keep them coming.😊
I just want to say thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experiences as a candle maker. I recommend you as a resource in beginner candle groups I follow because I find your delivery to be fun as well as informative making it easy to watch and understand. You post relitive content and actually give feedback and answer questions. I know you must put a ton of time into these videos on top of running your own business so I just really want to say thank you!!!
Hi Wade! I'm a 61 retired grandma who wants to start a small candle business. I've wanted to do this all my life, so now I'm going to do it because, well, I'm on the downhill side age-wise! LOL I, too, love your videos. You are a natural at this! 😊 I think you should create a video - for people to pay for, no freebie - or a book, on EVERYTHING to do with candle making and being a business owner. A Candle Making 101 type thing - following up with a CM102. Explaining the scientific side, too. Just a thought! Continue to enjoy your life, because it's apparent in your videos that you do. Thanks again for giving us a chance to learn and fulfill our dreams as you have. Continue to have a fun and blessed life. Thank you, Ronnica
Wow, thank you for posting this! I've been stuck in a wick testing loop for a couple months, basically went back and started over in my processes. Also went back and rewatched videos...I was pleasantly surprised to see that I am monitoring the same things you are!! I needed to finally feel like I was doing something right here, so thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for this, Wade. I used to think that if there is any mushrooming then I can't use that wick at all, even if there's no sooting or overheating. I eventally changed that mindset and your video was confirmation!! Appreciate you!!
Wade is our candle guru. All this advise is so affirming and helpful when it comes to testing. I know for myself I’m super harsh on myself when it comes to testing especially in the first 2 burns. I’m using wood wicks and it’s been a lot of trial and error with finding the right size wick to “perfectly” burn with the specific wax I’m using. I get really in my head when it comes to the first 2 burns and I’m seeing some wax hang up on the sides but the hot throw and the wick burn itself is amazing. Gotta do the full burn test to really determine if the test is a success or not. Wood wicks are tough to deal with I’m finding lol
Thanks for this info.. I've been stuck testing for over a year because my jar get hotter than 175 after during power burns and specially mid jar. I've purchased at least 5 candles from popular brands and they do the same and are visible over wick.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, Wade. I learn a lot from this video. I'm currently doing wick testing and i'm kind of frustrated anymore because I cannot seem to make it 'perfect'. It turns out that they are performing well already based on your explanation.
Hey Wade, I'm so pleased you did this video because I'm testing and I've got mushrooms on the first two burns and thought it was a fail. But after watching this, I've just started the 3rd burn and keeping my fingers crossed as I'm loving the FO and want it in my collection eventually. You've given me hope..!! 🙂
I got a (minor) burn off an artisan candle once as a kid and I’ve hesitated to even test certain vessels ever since because that memory was so strong. So THANK YOU so much for quantifying the surface temperature of the vessel! That’s one of those metrics that usually gets left out; and since I know that I tend to have a higher tolerance for heat (asbestos hands from cooking lol), I’m absolutely not a good barometer here. Having actual numbers as a general range to work off of is super, super helpful. As usual, Wade, your videos are by far the most helpful and transparent information in this niche, on this platform. I appreciate you so much and I hope I get the chance to express that in person someday. Thanks for everything you do-dad jokes included 😉
Thank you very much Wade that helps me a lot, i got a nuclear mushroom and all i had to do is wick down cause i change my supplier for french vanilla. Keep up the good work i just love your tips and tricks
Mushrooms always exist in bath and body works candles. Most of the time they have an uneven burn. I noticed also sometimes there wick turned off the flame when the candle is still considered full. I guess candel making is a real science 😂 thanks for your amazing videos.
Wade, thank you so much for this video. Specifically the part about vessel temp. I have looked all over and gotten all sorts of answers. Most people said keep it under 140, which was hard enough then I was told 125 and I was damn near about to give up. Now that I know that under 170 is perfectly fine, I am relieved and can't wait to not fail every candle I make. Thank you again for all your videos man!
@@BlackTieBarn im just glad to hear it doesn't have to be under 140, or even more so 125. 150-160 is very doable and I've had a few that I've "failed" that were in that range. Your videos have been extremely helpful along this journey, but this tip will be the one that really helps me get to a finished product. Many thanks!
Wade as always great video This cannot come at a more perfect time I’m in the process of finally launching my candle line and I’m working with two waxes. One is the problend 600 which I have down and the new one that I’m working with is number seven formally known as soy bliss and I was stressing because I was getting mushrooms and I thought the jar was too hot but after watching your video, the mushrooms that I have been getting have been very tiny and I didn’t even think about using my infrared for the outside of the glass. I’ve been hitting it on the top of the wax as it’s burning. You always give so much good advice that I love how you did the beginning the middle and the end because now I have a better idea how a candle should burn since I’m a new candle maker. Thank you for always giving such great advice for new candlemakers as well as season candlemakers
I like to start out with a half jar just to see if the FO has a hot throw. I used to waste so much wax on full 9 oz test candles. Also, the half jar kinda lets you know early if your wick is to big. Anyways, after I see that it has a good HT, and the wick size is probably ok, then I do the full size test.
I put a piece of masking tape over the spot of my jars where I want to measure the temperature with my infrared thermometer. This seems to give a consistent temperature measurement for my clear glass jars.
Just got into candles and you are a wealth of knowledge sir. Thank you so much for sharing. I couldn't help but notice the song at the end of the class.... lol what was it?
I LOVE your T-shirt 😅🤣. Tysm for the info! I am struggling to find the right wooden wick for my 8 oz straight side jar soy wax candles. I gave up a year ago, but am back at it! Your info is so helpful and I am hopeful! But yeah that T is awesome 🙌🏻😂
Another great video,and I hope everything is going well with your new premises,I did Watch the update you gave cant wait to see what it looks like all finished 😀
Hello Wade, hope all is well. Great video as always!.. that being said, fingers crossed for a similar video on Wooden Wicks, but if not it was worth a shot! 😂
Hey Wade Great videos! I wonder have you posted a Check list of things an at home candle tester should look for when they test your candles. Please let me know as we are getting closer to that day this would be a great help. Again, Great videos keep up the good work!
Thank you for providing consistently valuable content. I rewatched this video because I had some questions about wick testing and rate of consumption. When choosing between 2 wick sizes, if both perform reasonably well, low/no sooting and HT is where you want it to be, do you choose the lower ROC? And another question about ROC, I have a few candles that had a lower ROC with the bigger wick. Why does this happen? Last question - is there an ROC range that you target when testing? Thank you Wade!
Thank you. Unless you have a very controlled tasting lab, I would take your ROC test results with a grain of salt. Or... perform multiple tests to confirm. Also, increaes in wick size do not necessarily mean high ROC. Wick sizes take multiple things in consideration. Some flame height, some width, roc, yield, etc. For example look at a wick guide for premier 700s. You will see what I mean. Yield is more reliable (generally) than melt pool estimates for example. To answer your question, two wicks that are similar and both work. I'll tend to go with slightly smaller one. If it's a viscous wax, probably the higher one
Thanks as always!! Can you do a video just focused on burning and testing wooden wicks? My wooden wick candles are burning great but some have high flames in the early stage and a lot of flickering yet the mp isn’t full on that first burn…
Hey! I talk about them a lot in many videos including the review videos. And the general concepts apply. But I know what you mean since they do burn differently. But what you described is normal as well. Woodwinds can be SO inconsistent and finicky.
Hi Wade, in your opinion, would the wax type be taken into consideration when evaluating the surface temperature of the container? I am in the process of burn testing palm candles, which is an extremely hard wax with a higher melt point than most. In testing two of my fragrances so far, the container temp. of my straight-sided 12 oz clear glass containers having burned down to about the halfway point or beyond has reached 172, and once higher at 175 in a hot spot, during a couple of consecutive 4-hr. burn cycles, but container temp registers lower in all burn cycles before and after. Would you say that this is a concern? They are not reaching full melt pool until at least the start of the 3rd burn cycle, although for the mid- to lower candle burn cycles the depth of the melt pool increases from 1/4 - 1/2" to 5/8". For this container I am double wicking with the smallest wick size available, however, I could go to a wider diameter container. What would your opinion be? Thank you so much!
You're Phenomenal 🙏🏾 sorry 🤣I am just so excited 😆 I am leaving a reply on almost every video 🤗 so really dumb question.. I am going to watch the full video of course.😎 I'm really confused on testing.. When you test, do you just test one candle from each batch or do you need to test multiple candles from each batch? Surely I'm hoping you don't have to test every candle.. That would not make any sense.. or does it? 🤣 Please don't laugh! Okay, you have my permission to laugh 🤣😎😃
🤣🤣🤣 you're fine. New recipes test until you find right wick. Then do another test to verify. Then I like to pull a single candle from an occasional batch in the future snd retest for consistency. Check out my video about the rule of 2
@@BlackTieBarn 🤣 See you laughed right along with me on that 🤣 Thank you for those tips, that's great advice 🤗 I seriously cannot wait to start!!! Signs have been everywhere for me to take this candle business seriously and stop talking and start walking ☺️ It's all in the making. Just have to get my finances together more for ordering supplies 🤗
Pretty much all wicking videos on youtube talk about container candles. Pillar candles are different kettle of fish, and the information about wicking those is very thin on the ground.
I should add. For pillar candle wicking advice, the older books by David Constable, Norma Coney and Betty Oppenheimer give great advice as to what to look for in the flame and burning properties, but their info is outdated in regard to wick types and current availability. Modern wicking and wick guides are focused on their use in containers and it can take some effort (and much testing) to try to find a good match between the wicks in these books and the wicks available now. The advice given online is mostly contridictory and confusing, and too many candle supply places don't have the knowledge to advise for pillar candle wicking. I almost gave up in frustration.
Also I had no clue you were supposed to measure the temp on the outside. I saw someone else measure the inside of the jar up to the top of the rim which is where I noticed seems to be the hottest spot on my salsa jars.
I see a lot of different info on jar temp, some say 140 and some say 175. Where can I find the information? I just got done with my 10th burn, I have 2 or 3 left. It’s stayed under 140 degrees for most of the burns until the 8th burn it reached 150 degrees I thought it was a fail. There isn’t a lot of information on jar temp. I was wondering how towards the end of a candle could you possibly stay under 140 degrees and it still smell good. This made me feel so much better because when I tested one size down the candle tunneled. I quit once because I got discouraged and I didn’t want to quit again. Thank you for the info.
Hi Wade! Thank you for your videos and the invaluable information that you're willing to share!! Hoping you can help me with a question. I found some jars that I love (ceramic tumblers from Candle Science) we are using IGI 6006 wax and ECO 10 wicks. The candles looked great for a couple of weeks. If you look really hard, like you are actually looking for it, the wax is not adhering to the wall of the jar perfectly. Last night it got really cold and this morning the wax pulled away even further from the jar wall, highly noticeable. Any idea why this would be happening? I really don't want to let go of these jars, I think they are so pretty but we can't sell candles like this. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!!
Completely normal. Wax contracts as it cools (like most things). Some more than others. Most waxes pull away a bit. Totally normal. Cold weather will make it contract even more. I wouldn't worry about it. Even if you could control it for a while, it will still happen later
With my 4oz and 8oz jars that I’m testing I get a hot throw on the first burn, the next few burns the hot throw is faint. So with those size should I smell the hot throw in 30 or the hour like you said
you will get a full melt pool faster because they are smaller... but the overall hot throw will be less because they are small. Candles that size are usually meant for bathroom and small rooms, spaces.
This was so informative! I primarily use tin vessels and was wondering if that's why I have a deeper melt pool? When I get to about halfway down it's almost all liquid after a few hours. However the temperature of the tin is nowhere near 160°is this okay as I use a coconut soy wax
I'd still probably try smaller size just to see if you can prevent completely liquid. But yes very common with tins. And the fact that your temp is still low is fantastic. :)
Can you in fact take out a wood wick I have tested that failed the 2-3 hour mark? For instance, pulling the wood wick out and inserting a thicker size and heat gun the tunnel until full melt pool and let it cool down. Then, light it the next day?
Hi Wade, Question: if your single wick flame is consistently bending (at the candle half way mark), with no drafts, glass jar temp of 150 - would you fail this candle?:I tend to fail the candles. Maybe I shouldn't? Thank you for any advice.
Hi from England. If I get a full meltpool in the first 2-3 hours. And a large mushroom on the wick after 3-4 hours on the first burn? Does that mean my wick is too large? Thanks in advance
I want to say thank you for this valuable information. I have a quick question, what does it mean when you light the wick, the candle begins to turn black on top of the wax? Kind of like the wax is burning. Do you know what is causing this?
I got some wicks from Amazon I hate to waste but I’m not really sure how to identify them…should I just toss them and start with a more reliable source?
I'm struggling with flickering. I'm testing and I don't even have a completely melt pool-so the wick is definetely not too big, but my candle starts flickering after approximately 1 hours burning...I'm pouring only half of the test jar with wax. Maybe this is the problem?
So if the wick is doing well at the start and middle burn, but towards the end the wick is toppling over or only one side of the jar is getting soot, would you then need to wick down? What are possible solutions for this?
Hard to say. Wicks get soft and start leaning often. How much depends on wick type, wax type, jar size, etc. You could try wicking down one but not have it causes the other burns not to perform well
Well done. I'd like to send you some candles, if you are still reviewing viewer candles that is. How can I go about doing that? I'm sure the wait list is long!
Hey Wade. Thank you for your knowledge about this! Still pretty new to candle making and I noticed I get quite a bit of smoke after blowing out my candles using 444 wax and CD wicks, even if there's little to no carbon build up on the wick after. My room then goes from smelling like the fragrance to something like a burnt steak, lol. Is this normal or something you worry about when testing? The candles I've made with wooden booster wicks barely smoke at all after blowing them out which is so nice, but the wooden wicks themselves seem very inconsistent with how they burn like I've heard you mention.
@@aprilherald4602 What wax and wicks are you using? I've recently been experimenting with the ECO 12 and ECO 14 with 464 in 8 ounce tins from candle science and they have been much better about not smoking too much after blowing them out compared to the CDs. They also seem to mushroom less so far in my testing. I've read the CDs have more paper woven in compared to the ECOs which could be the reason they mushroom and smoke more? Not sure.
Does anybody else smell a little bit of a smoke odor when burning their candles. This is with candles that are well trimmed without a flickering flame. Or is this all supposed to be normal since there is a flame lighting the candle. Thx
Hello, I have a question about the wick size. What does it mean to change wick sizes. Because in a lot of videos i see wicks that are super long when they stick it in the jar and pour it and they cut it anyways. So in which situation do you change a wick size? Thankyou for all your helpful videos! :)
Hi. What you are referring to is the length. That doesn't matter as you will trim it anyway. The size referred to the output of the wick. Thickness, number of threads, heat, etc. An eco 4 is larger than an 2 for example. Both can be 6" long thst doesn't matter.
@@BlackTieBarn Ahh alright haha 😳😅 So when a flame is fed too much wax you have to size down and when it is not really melting the wax you have to size up for example?
Hey Jamie. These are actually not Aurus. They ate from ambrosia but similar. Slightly larger I believe. I am mostly using 2 premier 720s but that is with my wax. Not sure what wax you're using
@@BlackTieBarn I use the Aura jar as well double wicked and was wondering if hitting diameter at 2 - 2.5 hrs in the middle to late stage was considered a pass or fail? It seems on top I am hitting diameter by 3 - 4 hrs. Also, once you reach diameter in your test burning stage, do you blow it out or continue burning it? Thanks in advance 😊
? Nope. Been making thse shirts FOREVER. Honestly hsdnt even crossed my mind until you mentioned it. It's a common candle shirt/phrase as well. It actually started based on a more..... well pseudo inappropriate reference. Lol. It's just a shirt with a candle making quote. Shirt just happens to be black and white
My recording schedule and timeline make it difficult for outside editor. Plus the cost usually makes it not worth it to me on a video by video basis. Because they cut into earnings SO much and the the videos still take me a ton of time
Hi, hope someone might have the same issues I'm having currently. I have a ceramic farmhouse vessel from candle science, with the lids they suggest. Had no problem with the lids fitting, until I switched to coco apricot wax. Now, some lids fit and some don't. They simply won't go on, and once they go on, almost impossible to remove. I contacted candle science, but they have no thoughts on it. Anyone here, have any thoughts, tips or tricks if you had a similar issue? thanks.
That's SUPER odd. I can't make sense of that either. Unless maybe you should wait longer to put them on. Perhaps that was forms a tighter vacuum seal once it's cooling? No idea. Really doesn't make sense
![All About Candle Wicks | Details of types of cotton wicks for candle making [Wicks and Wicking]](/img/1.gif)
Learn without limits at skl.sh/blacktiebarn10221 and get 1 month unlimited access to tens of thousands of Skillshare classes for FREE!
I can't thank you enough! When I made candles years ago I never heard of doing power burns which is crazy because I myself can be a power burner! I also never heard anyone talk about checking the temp of the jar. Because of your channel, I am now doing both of these now that I've gotten back into candle making. Absolutely grateful for the time you put in to making these videos and I hope you keep them coming.😊
I just want to say thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experiences as a candle maker. I recommend you as a resource in beginner candle groups I follow because I find your delivery to be fun as well as informative making it easy to watch and understand. You post relitive content and actually give feedback and answer questions. I know you must put a ton of time into these videos on top of running your own business so I just really want to say thank you!!!
Thanks so much Kerri. I really appreciate that and the support. :)
Hi Wade! I'm a 61 retired grandma who wants to start a small candle business. I've wanted to do this all my life, so now I'm going to do it because, well, I'm on the downhill side age-wise! LOL I, too, love your videos. You are a natural at this! 😊 I think you should create a video - for people to pay for, no freebie - or a book, on EVERYTHING to do with candle making and being a business owner. A Candle Making 101 type thing - following up with a CM102. Explaining the scientific side, too. Just a thought! Continue to enjoy your life, because it's apparent in your videos that you do. Thanks again for giving us a chance to learn and fulfill our dreams as you have. Continue to have a fun and blessed life. Thank you, Ronnica
Oh boy I really needed this video! Thanks Wade. I think I'm just way too hard on myself when it comes to testing
👊😆
This video is exactly what I am looking for. Thank you.
Wow, thank you for posting this! I've been stuck in a wick testing loop for a couple months, basically went back and started over in my processes. Also went back and rewatched videos...I was pleasantly surprised to see that I am monitoring the same things you are!! I needed to finally feel like I was doing something right here, so thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Awesome! Thanks for the feedback Bobbi!
Thanks for this, Wade. I used to think that if there is any mushrooming then I can't use that wick at all, even if there's no sooting or overheating. I eventally changed that mindset and your video was confirmation!! Appreciate you!!
No problem!
my attention span to listening is so short but this keeps me until the end even watch it twice. very helpful
Thanks so much!
Wade is our candle guru. All this advise is so affirming and helpful when it comes to testing. I know for myself I’m super harsh on myself when it comes to testing especially in the first 2 burns. I’m using wood wicks and it’s been a lot of trial and error with finding the right size wick to “perfectly” burn with the specific wax I’m using. I get really in my head when it comes to the first 2 burns and I’m seeing some wax hang up on the sides but the hot throw and the wick burn itself is amazing. Gotta do the full burn test to really determine if the test is a success or not. Wood wicks are tough to deal with I’m finding lol
So thankful you chose to share your hard learned knowledge ! Such a saviour !
👍🙏
Thanks for this info.. I've been stuck testing for over a year because my jar get hotter than 175 after during power burns and specially mid jar. I've purchased at least 5 candles from popular brands and they do the same and are visible over wick.
Jars are going to frequently get over 175 during power burns. Some of mine have as well. How are they doing during normal burns
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, Wade. I learn a lot from this video. I'm currently doing wick testing and i'm kind of frustrated anymore because I cannot seem to make it 'perfect'. It turns out that they are performing well already based on your explanation.
Chasing perfection will lead to having nothing. It's an art.... no such thing as perfection. ;)
Im from Missouri. Imma Roo! Anyway thank you so much for your support in our journey I will be sure to send you a candle to test!
❤️
Hey Wade, I'm so pleased you did this video because I'm testing and I've got mushrooms on the first two burns and thought it was a fail. But after watching this, I've just started the 3rd burn and keeping my fingers crossed as I'm loving the FO and want it in my collection eventually. You've given me hope..!! 🙂
❤️ sometimes it is... sometimes it's not. :)
I'm trying to stay positive as I'm watching the 3rd burn lol there is less of a mushroom but I think maybe less HT too. 😏 I'll see how it goes.
I got a (minor) burn off an artisan candle once as a kid and I’ve hesitated to even test certain vessels ever since because that memory was so strong. So THANK YOU so much for quantifying the surface temperature of the vessel! That’s one of those metrics that usually gets left out; and since I know that I tend to have a higher tolerance for heat (asbestos hands from cooking lol), I’m absolutely not a good barometer here. Having actual numbers as a general range to work off of is super, super helpful.
As usual, Wade, your videos are by far the most helpful and transparent information in this niche, on this platform. I appreciate you so much and I hope I get the chance to express that in person someday. Thanks for everything you do-dad jokes included 😉
Haha. Thanks so much. Lol. And sure anytime. I'm in KC but travel a lot. Lol
Thank you very much Wade that helps me a lot, i got a nuclear mushroom and all i had to do is wick down cause i change my supplier for french vanilla. Keep up the good work i just love your tips and tricks
I'll try. Thanks so much!
Mushrooms always exist in bath and body works candles. Most of the time they have an uneven burn. I noticed also sometimes there wick turned off the flame when the candle is still considered full. I guess candel making is a real science 😂 thanks for your amazing videos.
😁
Thank you! Can’t wait for the update videos too!
❤️👍
Wade, thank you so much for this video. Specifically the part about vessel temp. I have looked all over and gotten all sorts of answers. Most people said keep it under 140, which was hard enough then I was told 125 and I was damn near about to give up. Now that I know that under 170 is perfectly fine, I am relieved and can't wait to not fail every candle I make. Thank you again for all your videos man!
Np. Like I said I like to stay between 150 and 160 but 170 is astm guidance. At least last time I checked
@@BlackTieBarn im just glad to hear it doesn't have to be under 140, or even more so 125. 150-160 is very doable and I've had a few that I've "failed" that were in that range. Your videos have been extremely helpful along this journey, but this tip will be the one that really helps me get to a finished product. Many thanks!
Wade as always great video This cannot come at a more perfect time I’m in the process of finally launching my candle line and I’m working with two waxes. One is the problend 600 which I have down and the new one that I’m working with is number seven formally known as soy bliss and I was stressing because I was getting mushrooms and I thought the jar was too hot
but after watching your video, the mushrooms that I have been getting have been very tiny and I didn’t even think about using my infrared for the outside of the glass. I’ve been hitting it on the top of the wax as it’s burning.
You always give so much good advice that I love how you did the beginning the middle and the end because now I have a better idea how a candle should burn since I’m a new candle maker. Thank you for always giving such great advice for new candlemakers as well as season candlemakers
Thanks patty
Perfect timing. I was trying to analyze the findings of my wick tests. Thank you.
👍😁
Your videos are always very helpful and informative, thank you for sharing.
Thank you! :)
Thanks for all of the great info. Just started making candles as a hobby. Love your videos.
Thanks scott!
I like to start out with a half jar just to see if the FO has a hot throw. I used to waste so much wax on full 9 oz test candles. Also, the half jar kinda lets you know early if your wick is to big. Anyways, after I see that it has a good HT, and the wick size is probably ok, then I do the full size test.
This video just kind of saved my sanity.
❤️great!
Excellent video yet again Wade. Thanks for your time and info!
Np Cathy!
I put a piece of masking tape over the spot of my jars where I want to measure the temperature with my infrared thermometer. This seems to give a consistent temperature measurement for my clear glass jars.
Thank you so much wade, the video I didn’t know I needed. Greatly appreciated!
Np Alexis!
Just got into candles and you are a wealth of knowledge sir. Thank you so much for sharing. I couldn't help but notice the song at the end of the class.... lol what was it?
Thank you Wade! I needed this information.
You're Welcome!
Thanks Wade. That was very informative.
Great!
Thank you again for another great and informative video!
Np heather!
I LOVE your T-shirt 😅🤣. Tysm for the info! I am struggling to find the right wooden wick for my 8 oz straight side jar soy wax candles. I gave up a year ago, but am back at it! Your info is so helpful and I am hopeful! But yeah that T is awesome 🙌🏻😂
Well, this is awesome!! I couldn't sleep & I find a notification from Black Tie Barn
🤣
Another great video,and I hope everything is going well with your new premises,I did Watch the update you gave cant wait to see what it looks like all finished 😀
Thanks. Me too. Lol
Hello Wade, hope all is well. Great video as always!.. that being said, fingers crossed for a similar video on Wooden Wicks, but if not it was worth a shot! 😂
Well really it's the same ideology. But I know what you mean as they burn differently for sure
@@BlackTieBarn Indeed good sir!
EXACTLY what I needed!!!!
😁
Thank you Wade. Much appreciated.
❤️ np
Great advice as always Wade :) thanks for sharing 😀
No problem. Thanks Wendy!
Excellent information!
Thanks!
Hey Wade Great videos! I wonder have you posted a Check list of things an at home candle tester should look for when they test your candles. Please let me know as we are getting closer to that day this would be a great help. Again, Great videos keep up the good work!
Such great advice
Ty
Thank you for providing consistently valuable content. I rewatched this video because I had some questions about wick testing and rate of consumption. When choosing between 2 wick sizes, if both perform reasonably well, low/no sooting and HT is where you want it to be, do you choose the lower ROC? And another question about ROC, I have a few candles that had a lower ROC with the bigger wick. Why does this happen? Last question - is there an ROC range that you target when testing? Thank you Wade!
Thank you. Unless you have a very controlled tasting lab, I would take your ROC test results with a grain of salt. Or... perform multiple tests to confirm. Also, increaes in wick size do not necessarily mean high ROC. Wick sizes take multiple things in consideration. Some flame height, some width, roc, yield, etc. For example look at a wick guide for premier 700s. You will see what I mean. Yield is more reliable (generally) than melt pool estimates for example.
To answer your question, two wicks that are similar and both work. I'll tend to go with slightly smaller one. If it's a viscous wax, probably the higher one
Thanks as always!! Can you do a video just focused on burning and testing wooden wicks? My wooden wick candles are burning great but some have high flames in the early stage and a lot of flickering yet the mp isn’t full on that first burn…
Wooden wicks are so tricky!! 😵💫
Yup! Lol
Hey! I talk about them a lot in many videos including the review videos. And the general concepts apply. But I know what you mean since they do burn differently. But what you described is normal as well. Woodwinds can be SO inconsistent and finicky.
@@lovelisali true
@@BlackTieBarn ok, I'm going to go back and check out the other videos. Thanks again!
Hi Wade, in your opinion, would the wax type be taken into consideration when evaluating the surface temperature of the container? I am in the process of burn testing palm candles, which is an extremely hard wax with a higher melt point than most. In testing two of my fragrances so far, the container temp. of my straight-sided 12 oz clear glass containers having burned down to about the halfway point or beyond has reached 172, and once higher at 175 in a hot spot, during a couple of consecutive 4-hr. burn cycles, but container temp registers lower in all burn cycles before and after. Would you say that this is a concern? They are not reaching full melt pool until at least the start of the 3rd burn cycle, although for the mid- to lower candle burn cycles the depth of the melt pool increases from 1/4 - 1/2" to 5/8". For this container I am double wicking with the smallest wick size available, however, I could go to a wider diameter container. What would your opinion be? Thank you so much!
You're Phenomenal 🙏🏾 sorry 🤣I am just so excited 😆 I am leaving a reply on almost every video 🤗 so really dumb question.. I am going to watch the full video of course.😎 I'm really confused on testing.. When you test, do you just test one candle from each batch or do you need to test multiple candles from each batch? Surely I'm hoping you don't have to test every candle.. That would not make any sense.. or does it? 🤣 Please don't laugh! Okay, you have my permission to laugh 🤣😎😃
🤣🤣🤣 you're fine. New recipes test until you find right wick. Then do another test to verify. Then I like to pull a single candle from an occasional batch in the future snd retest for consistency. Check out my video about the rule of 2
@@BlackTieBarn 🤣 See you laughed right along with me on that 🤣 Thank you for those tips, that's great advice 🤗 I seriously cannot wait to start!!! Signs have been everywhere for me to take this candle business seriously and stop talking and start walking ☺️ It's all in the making. Just have to get my finances together more for ordering supplies 🤗
Pretty much all wicking videos on youtube talk about container candles. Pillar candles are different kettle of fish, and the information about wicking those is very thin on the ground.
Agreed!
I should add. For pillar candle wicking advice, the older books by David Constable, Norma Coney and Betty Oppenheimer give great advice as to what to look for in the flame and burning properties, but their info is outdated in regard to wick types and current availability. Modern wicking and wick guides are focused on their use in containers and it can take some effort (and much testing) to try to find a good match between the wicks in these books and the wicks available now. The advice given online is mostly contridictory and confusing, and too many candle supply places don't have the knowledge to advise for pillar candle wicking. I almost gave up in frustration.
Thank you very much for the video. During an early candle test, how long should it take for a full pool to form?
Ty for videos it’s a big help… how far down should I trim my wick? or do wick trimmer automatically cut to right size?
About 1/4"
Also I had no clue you were supposed to measure the temp on the outside. I saw someone else measure the inside of the jar up to the top of the rim which is where I noticed seems to be the hottest spot on my salsa jars.
Thank you for sharing🙂 I use C3 soy wax, what is the best temperature for applying fragrence oil. 70 c or 85 c? Please reply🙂
Great video Wade, so much important information, in this vid, much needed, thank you!!
Of course!
I see a lot of different info on jar temp, some say 140 and some say 175. Where can I find the information? I just got done with my 10th burn, I have 2 or 3 left. It’s stayed under 140 degrees for most of the burns until the 8th burn it reached 150 degrees I thought it was a fail. There isn’t a lot of information on jar temp. I was wondering how towards the end of a candle could you possibly stay under 140 degrees and it still smell good. This made me feel so much better because when I tested one size down the candle tunneled. I quit once because I got discouraged and I didn’t want to quit again. Thank you for the info.
hi wade! thanks for another great video. do you offer classes for beginner candle makers?
Thank Brittany. Not yet but working on it. :)
Hi Wade! Thank you for your videos and the invaluable information that you're willing to share!! Hoping you can help me with a question. I found some jars that I love (ceramic tumblers from Candle Science) we are using IGI 6006 wax and ECO 10 wicks. The candles looked great for a couple of weeks. If you look really hard, like you are actually looking for it, the wax is not adhering to the wall of the jar perfectly. Last night it got really cold and this morning the wax pulled away even further from the jar wall, highly noticeable. Any idea why this would be happening? I really don't want to let go of these jars, I think they are so pretty but we can't sell candles like this. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!!
Completely normal. Wax contracts as it cools (like most things). Some more than others. Most waxes pull away a bit. Totally normal. Cold weather will make it contract even more. I wouldn't worry about it. Even if you could control it for a while, it will still happen later
With my 4oz and 8oz jars that I’m testing I get a hot throw on the first burn, the next few burns the hot throw is faint. So with those size should I smell the hot throw in 30 or the hour like you said
you will get a full melt pool faster because they are smaller... but the overall hot throw will be less because they are small. Candles that size are usually meant for bathroom and small rooms, spaces.
This was so informative! I primarily use tin vessels and was wondering if that's why I have a deeper melt pool? When I get to about halfway down it's almost all liquid after a few hours. However the temperature of the tin is nowhere near 160°is this okay as I use a coconut soy wax
I'd still probably try smaller size just to see if you can prevent completely liquid. But yes very common with tins. And the fact that your temp is still low is fantastic. :)
@@BlackTieBarn thank you! This makes me feel so much better ❤️
Can you in fact take out a wood wick I have tested that failed the 2-3 hour mark? For instance, pulling the wood wick out and inserting a thicker size and heat gun the tunnel until full melt pool and let it cool down. Then, light it the next day?
Yes you can. 👍
Ok so I have a question? The 140-170 would that be at what time frame? Like at the 4th hour burn? Thank you
At any point is the goal. The idea behind astm is try to keep the temp under that point
Thank you so much for replying
Hi Wade, Question: if your single wick flame is consistently bending (at the candle half way mark), with no drafts, glass jar temp of 150 - would you fail this candle?:I tend to fail the candles. Maybe I shouldn't? Thank you for any advice.
Hi Susan I am not too sure what you mean by the flame bending. But if it never gets worse than you described I don't think it's an auto fail
Thank you so much for this video 🙌🏽💖 has anyone used HTP wicks 126 & 116 for soy 464 wax ??
I personally haven't but I've definitely seen it. I think I've seen them in lobby tumblers with 464
I make dough bowl candles, what is your advise on wicking those type vessels.
Honestly no idea. Never used them.
Hi Wade,
Great video as always.
This question is maybe stupid. Do you cure candles before testing or you test them after you make them?
I usually test 2 days after and then again 2 weeks after to confirm my previous results. :)
@@BlackTieBarn Thank you for a quick response!!
Hi from England. If I get a full meltpool in the first 2-3 hours. And a large mushroom on the wick after 3-4 hours on the first burn? Does that mean my wick is too large? Thanks in advance
If it was me, is probably try a wick size or two smaller
I want to say thank you for this valuable information. I have a quick question, what does it mean when you light the wick, the candle begins to turn black on top of the wax? Kind of like the wax is burning. Do you know what is causing this?
Sorry and ash and gear can discolor the wax as well. Happens more with wooden wicks
@@BlackTieBarn Okay, thank you. Is there a way I can fix this?
I got some wicks from Amazon I hate to waste but I’m not really sure how to identify them…should I just toss them and start with a more reliable source?
Hard to say. Without knowing specifically what they are though will be problematic at some point
This is totally not candle related (which - great video!) but could you tell me the brand of your shelves?
I'm struggling with flickering. I'm testing and I don't even have a completely melt pool-so the wick is definetely not too big, but my candle starts flickering after approximately 1 hours burning...I'm pouring only half of the test jar with wax. Maybe this is the problem?
So if the wick is doing well at the start and middle burn, but towards the end the wick is toppling over or only one side of the jar is getting soot, would you then need to wick down? What are possible solutions for this?
Hard to say. Wicks get soft and start leaning often. How much depends on wick type, wax type, jar size, etc. You could try wicking down one but not have it causes the other burns not to perform well
Well done. I'd like to send you some candles, if you are still reviewing viewer candles that is. How can I go about doing that? I'm sure the wait list is long!
Do you have a video on Candle Insurance? 🕯I have candle insurance through Indie Business ... but I just really want the best options.
Not specifically. It's what I currently use as well
Great thanks!!!! 👍 I feel better now knowing you have Indie as well. Cheers 🍻
Around the 10.45 mark in the video, my candles flames look like that, in the middle part of the jar 😢 is that a fail?
Hey Wade. Thank you for your knowledge about this! Still pretty new to candle making and I noticed I get quite a bit of smoke after blowing out my candles using 444 wax and CD wicks, even if there's little to no carbon build up on the wick after. My room then goes from smelling like the fragrance to something like a burnt steak, lol. Is this normal or something you worry about when testing? The candles I've made with wooden booster wicks barely smoke at all after blowing them out which is so nice, but the wooden wicks themselves seem very inconsistent with how they burn like I've heard you mention.
I am having the same issue. Help please
@@aprilherald4602 What wax and wicks are you using? I've recently been experimenting with the ECO 12 and ECO 14 with 464 in 8 ounce tins from candle science and they have been much better about not smoking too much after blowing them out compared to the CDs. They also seem to mushroom less so far in my testing. I've read the CDs have more paper woven in compared to the ECOs which could be the reason they mushroom and smoke more? Not sure.
Does anybody else smell a little bit of a smoke odor when burning their candles. This is with candles that are well trimmed without a flickering flame. Or is this all supposed to be normal since there is a flame lighting the candle. Thx
Every once in a while if there is a draft. Other than that... not really unless extinguishing.
Hello, I have a question about the wick size. What does it mean to change wick sizes. Because in a lot of videos i see wicks that are super long when they stick it in the jar and pour it and they cut it anyways. So in which situation do you change a wick size? Thankyou for all your helpful videos! :)
Hi. What you are referring to is the length. That doesn't matter as you will trim it anyway. The size referred to the output of the wick. Thickness, number of threads, heat, etc. An eco 4 is larger than an 2 for example. Both can be 6" long thst doesn't matter.
@@BlackTieBarn Ahh alright haha 😳😅 So when a flame is fed too much wax you have to size down and when it is not really melting the wax you have to size up for example?
If I get a full meltpool in the first 2-3 hours. Does that mean my wick is too large? Thanks in advance
If it was me, is probably try a wick size or two smaller
Anyone have a starting point with premier 700 wicks with 464 in a 8 oz straight sided jar? Theres so many sizes!
It looks like you might be using an Aura vessel? What double wicks have worked best for that jar for you?
Hey Jamie. These are actually not Aurus. They ate from ambrosia but similar. Slightly larger I believe. I am mostly using 2 premier 720s but that is with my wax. Not sure what wax you're using
@@BlackTieBarn I use the Aura jar as well double wicked and was wondering if hitting diameter at 2 - 2.5 hrs in the middle to late stage was considered a pass or fail? It seems on top I am hitting diameter by 3 - 4 hrs.
Also, once you reach diameter in your test burning stage, do you blow it out or continue burning it? Thanks in advance 😊
❤
Thanks Maria!
What is a hot throw?
The strength of the scent while the candle is burning. :)
Still waiting for video on best wax for wax melts.
Hey Cathy. Sorry, so much on my plate and like a hundred videos planned. Lol I tend to prefer problend 650 and c55 right now though.
Is that shirt a twist on blm?
? Nope. Been making thse shirts FOREVER. Honestly hsdnt even crossed my mind until you mentioned it. It's a common candle shirt/phrase as well. It actually started based on a more..... well pseudo inappropriate reference. Lol. It's just a shirt with a candle making quote. Shirt just happens to be black and white
@@BlackTieBarn oh good. My heart stopped for a sec!
Didn't think about the colours, just the text.
Hey are you still looking for an editor?
My recording schedule and timeline make it difficult for outside editor. Plus the cost usually makes it not worth it to me on a video by video basis. Because they cut into earnings SO much and the the videos still take me a ton of time
Hi, hope someone might have the same issues I'm having currently. I have a ceramic farmhouse vessel from candle science, with the lids they suggest. Had no problem with the lids fitting, until I switched to coco apricot wax. Now, some lids fit and some don't. They simply won't go on, and once they go on, almost impossible to remove. I contacted candle science, but they have no thoughts on it. Anyone here, have any thoughts, tips or tricks if you had a similar issue? thanks.
That's SUPER odd. I can't make sense of that either. Unless maybe you should wait longer to put them on. Perhaps that was forms a tighter vacuum seal once it's cooling? No idea. Really doesn't make sense