First of All, love your channel and your the only reason my wife talked me into getting her another Outback(2013 Outback 3.6R). The 5EAT in her car started lurching HARD just a couple months after we got it, setting a permanent code. Found out from the local Subaru that they had already had it in, they thought I was the previous owning, and they had suggested a rebuilt transmission. I did some research and it seems there is a sensor in the transmission around the torque converter that causes the issue. Of course they don't sell the sensor, but they do sell the Valve Body($1100) which has the sensor. So had it replaced and we've put another 20k since then, including two vacation trips to Gatlinburg, TN. Great car, but I'm glad you and other channels like yours are here!!!
Just did this on my 2011 3.6 OB after watching your video! Everything underneath matched your 2014 OB. I used the crush washer you listed as well as OEM Subaru ATF. I let mine drain for an hour and was able to to get about 4.5 qts drained, the entire system holds 10.4 so roughly 6 more qts of the old ATF remains but I can already notice a difference in shifting after the first drain and fill! I plan to do at least one more drain and fill using this method within the next week or so, possibly a third depending on available funds. Thanks for the upload!
1. remove drain plug 2. reinstall drain plug with new crush copper washer part #11126AA050 3. torque to 20Nm or 14.8 ft lbs 4. measure the fluid that was drained and replace accordingly 5. use Subaru ATF-HD. this has replaced GM Dextron in late model Subaru transmissions 6. place funnel in transmission dipstick tube 7. add new oil / check level 8. drive car for operational temperature several miles or 10-15 minutes 9. check level again, if full hot, you're good to go 10. go for a beer 🍺🍻 you can repeat this drain fill procedure about 3 times to fully change the ATF because this only removes 1/3 of the total fluid amount. *Warning* that's a total of 3 beers for me which then i'll be drunk, make sure to wear a muscle t-shirt wink wink FYI: there's NO transmission oil filter to change. he explains it in other video and i found out by going into the rabbit hole, videos, subaru forums, etc. NOT even behind the battery like other 2009 to 2011 Subaru Twist Oil Filters
Hey Mr. Subaru, love your videos. I just had the valve body and transmission fluid replaced on my 05 OB XT 5EAT with genuine OEM parts. But the tranny still shifts hard sometimes from 1st to 2nd and then downshifts hard from 2nd to 1st. Is this just the car trying to relearn how to shift? This doesn't happen in any other gear changes.
Thanks for the great video. I think this is in my wheelhouse. I feel good about being able to do it myself since i am always concerned about getting hosed at the transmission places.
Great video, thanks for posting. I've realized a shop recently put the wrong fluid in my transmission and I'm thinking about doing the repair myself, but I can see the fluids mixing during three repeated sessions of fluid drain being a potential issue. Would it be best to take it somewhere they can drain all of the fluid at once instead?
I know this is an older video, but nicely done. Would this be the same procedure for my 2017 Outback 3.6R Limited or did they change up cvt's between 2014 and 2017?
Appreciate it man! About to do an 07 LGT 5EAT drain and fill. Everyone is telling me not to, but I feel like it’s a must since idk when it was last done if ever, with previous owner and it’s got 100k miles. Is there a drain plug on the 5eat also?
Will just changing the fluid like you did here have any negative issues/effects on the transmission?? I have 151K on my 2012 3.6 Outback and have no idea when/if it was ever done? Just bought it back in August 2021…
Draining it is a different procedure than a full fluid flush. For some reason experienced mechanics seem to have issues with the fluid flush, but the drain & fill is standard maintenance and should be done every 30-50k.
Have you had to resolve any 5eat trans problems from the heavy auto downshifting you get - this would normally throw an error code. Expensive route is a whole new valve body, cheaper route people have said could be a dodgy speed sensor that needs to be replaced. Keen on experience if you've dealt with those issues?
One fault a speed sensor can cause is a massive thump in the driveline (feels like the car has been rear ended). Stopping the engine and restarting is a temporary cure. I had the speed sensor replaced a year ago and the fault has yet to re occur.
Is this same for 2016 3.6R with the 5EAT? he transmission psi sensor started leaking so going to change it but not sure how much we lost. Is 4 good to start with on this one
Any chance you could make one about changing the instrument cluster out of a 13-14 outback into a 10-12. I have been wanting to do this. Need to know if it works.
I wouldn't say the fluid was that bad. However it's always a good precaution to refresh even a 1/3 of the fluid. On my forester 2011 I did full replacement with pumping old fluid through return line. Shifting became much smother after that.
You only drain 1/3 of the total fluid capacity each time you drain the pan. You drain 3 separate times to insure you changed as much of the ATF as possible in the transmission.
I have the exact same car, SAP exactly. You have exquisite taste Mr. Subaru. Have done the ATF change twice and am at 100k miles using the OEM fluid. I noticed that after 70000 miles, after starting the car on a cold day, the engine really lurches when I shift into drive. Not reverse; only drive. Its quite a lurch. If I let it warm up for around 15 minutes the problem is not as bad, but still there. If I rev it up to 5k RPM in park its much better. For the rest of the day its fine even if it gets cold again, but overnight same problem. On spring, summer, no problems whatsoever. Fluid level is fine for both hot and cold checks. Am I looking at a serious long term problem here with the AT? Took it into the Subaru dealership and they said "dunno, I'll reset the learning computer". Just curious if you have the same problem. Everything else about the car is tip top.
Had the same issue. Problem is that the engine high idles for warm up. Shifting into drive when the engine is idling high will cause the harsh engagement. When you wait 15 mins, idle has dropped down to normal idle speed. Next time, shift from park to N, wait a few seconds, then pull into drive. See if the harshness is still there.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thank you for the great videos and fast responses. I thought maybe I had done something wrong at some point / or the gears were damaged somehow. I also thought maybe some of the idemitsu fluid I put in was bad. I wish I would have found your videos earlier (ESPECIALLY for the spark plug change due to my large gorilla hands fumbling around in there - driver side near steering wheel was a royal pain). Its reassuring to know someone else has noticed this / had this "issue" with the harsh engagement.
Just curious for 2010-14’ Outback 3.6r Offroad upgrade. It has a final gear ratio of 3.083. Can we swap it with the more Stronger 3.58 ratio of the Tribeca 3.6r? Thanks 🙏
Just came across this video and I didn’t realize that you had or have a 3.6 R as well I do my flute about every 30 and I just been running the oem Subaru hp idemitsu fluid, I just wonder if it’s a partial synthetic?
Thank you very much for your great Subaru videos. Would you please comment on the use of a vacuum extractor to drain the automatic transmission pan thru the dip stick tube? I have seen people drain their car's oil from above, and I wonder if such a method would work for the ATF fluid drainage as well. It would save lifting the car and crawling underneath the vehicle, and at my age that's an issue.
@MrSubaru1387 I tried the "TopSider" Manual Vacuum Fluid Extractor and drained the automatic transmission pan in my 2014 Outback 3.6 R through the dip stick tube. On the first attempt, I drained 3 quarts and 13 ounces and replaced the extracted volume with Subaru ATF. On the second attempt, I drained 4 1/2 quarts. One more to go. One more drain and fill to go. 12 quarts of fresh OEM ATF at 30, 287 miles has got to be a good thing.
Hello. My 5EAT has some Castrol synthetic in it. Should I drain and fill it 3 times? Or is there any other way to drop the pan and drain more and or replace any filter?
Is there any way you could do a video on how to change the fluid in a 2010-2014 Subaru Outback 2.5 CVT transmission fluid change video? I love your videos!!!
Does this transmission have an external filter? Rockauto sells one for the 3.6 Legacy. I didnt see you change a filter here, so Id assume the filter is an internal screen filter.
Have you come across the cam sensor issue? Mine pops up occasionally. Car drives normal but I'm pretty sure I need the shim to space it properly. I looked it up and they want 80 bucks for a glorified washer. You should do a video about that.
Hi, I just did my 2013 Subaru Outback 3.6R, and I change my transmission oil in the morning, the car is al cold, and I only drin out 3 US qts oil out, and I put 3 qts new oil, I don’t know why you can take out 4 US qts, is because my car is cold? Please let me know thanks
I just got a bid from a local oil lube change place and they wanted $155 to do this. They scare you into making you it's more labor or because it's the transmission it's more expensive.
Hi Man. I saw you do not remove the pan. No need to clean it inside and change the magnet ? Got a 04 ez30d with the 5eat (no Si-drive, no paddleshift) Transmission service every 40K miles by Subaru but wanna do it myself next time. Tx on beforehands for your answer and advice.
Great tutorial once again. Quick question : does the flat part of the crush washer rest flat against the drain plug? Or does the flat part rest flat against the pan? Thank you!!!
@@TravelingBuildingGrowing thank you! I think that's the right way. When i removed the plug, I noticed it had been previously installed that way by the dealership 👍
Hi. I have the same car. I had my car in the shop in May for valve body replacement. They replaced all my transmission fluid also. Yesterday, my AT temp, park brake, and traction control light came on. I checked my AT fluid level, and it was at low cold. My car was definitely not cold. Any idea of what could cause my fluid to be so low?
This method will mix new and old fluid. Recognize multiple changes will improve the ratio. Have you tried draining, adding 4 quarts. Then remove the trans cooling line at the radiator, start the car and when fluid stops pumping shut off. Then add same amount. Repeat x3.
If you have metal shaving circulating, you have bigger issues than a fluid/filter change will fix. It shouldn't really matter at which drain/refill that you replace the spin on filter.
Yes, just remove the pan and it pulls right out. There is an o-ring on the filter where it seals with the transmission valve body. Also, there are two types of filters - metal and plastic. I'm not sure if they are equivalent in terms of replacement or if there is a need to replace with an alike design.
MrSubaru, I have a 2011 outback 3.6r, the transmission works fine in auto, but i can't paddle shift gears, I know in auto it shifts up/down no problem, any idea what's going on? electronic issues? thank you!
Hello Mr.Subaru, I really appreciate your videos. I don’t know if you are able to help me so I’m giving a shot at sending you a message. I have a 2011 Subaru Outback 3.6R 5EAT. A little while ago a bunch of lights came on my dash along with the transmission generic code of P0700 (only that code). I followed your video about doing a AT fluid flush and did it successfully. After the first flush, I drove a few miles, something really strange happened after a stop sign: It felt like the transmission started to slip (RPM goes really high) and came back really hard, with a strong metal noise (similar sound, when you are parked in an incline/decline and you move the gear from P to D, without the e-brake on. But a way heavier sound). Sounded like someone hit the underside of my car with a big hammer. It happened once. I took to my mechanic friend today (which he couldn’t reproduce any of the issues, of course) and asked him to do a brake fluid flush, bleed them and also do a 2nd AT flush. Sure enough, after driving a few miles, going up a hill in slower speed, the transmission did that weird thing again, twice in the roll. I’m not sure what to do.. take to the dealership? My transmission is going bad? I really appreciate your time in advance. Thank you!
Hello Mr. Subaru and thanks a for the great tutorials! For a 2016 Legacy 3.6 with no dipstick (just drain and fill plugs, and I`m not entirely sure where that fill plug is yet) do you recommend doing anything different besides draining and filling? Thanks!
Hello! how are you?. I'm Mariano from Argentina and I wanted to ask if it would be the same procedure for a subaru legacy 3.0R 2009. I understand that this process does not completely remove the old ATF oil and it needs at least 2 more changes. I would like to know when to change the oil filter, that is, change the oil filter on the first change or on the second or third change. Thank you so much! Bye! PS: I'm using a translator. sorry for my bad English :P
ATF should be changed every 60k miles. Yes, the procedure is quite similar. You can change the spin on transmission filter at any point during the drain and refill.
@@MrSubaru1387 Same procedure on 3.0 engine/5eat. Spin-on filter may be located in the fender beside the battery. Be aware that you are only changing some of the fluid as much still remains in the torque converter. If you are changing due to a potential fluid contamination issue, you should repeat this process at least 2 more times, or check UAMate's method below.
MrSubaru1387 Right, but dexron lll is no longer available as far as I know. Everything I see nowadays is “compatible with dexron lll, lV, etc. I think you used Castrol in the Legacy video?
Yeah, same on my 2002 3.0L. But nope, they got rid of the external filters unfortunately. They only have the internal mesh screen/pickup on this model. I followed the cooler lines out to the cooler and back. Subaru confirmed no filter as well.
@@MrSubaru1387 i know this is a pretty old video, but i have an 09 tribeca, every filter i see is the round screw on kind, and i just replaced the turbine speed sensor 2. Should i replace the filter in the transmission? every part store doesnt seem to even carry it
Hello Mate, may I ask why with 5EAT you didn't take off the cover in comparison to 4EAT ? And also there is no need to change the AT filter, and is it inside the AT? Does every time when you drop of the oil that 4 litres comes out? Thank you for your movies, they are great and hepful :) Regards!
I dropped the pan on the 4EAT because it had 270k miles on it and the pan was leaking and needed a reseal. I didn't drop the pan on the 5EAT because it only had 60k miles on it. There is no external filter to change on the 5EAT like the 4EAT. About 4 qts come out on a drain. About 1/3 of total capacity.
Hey, I just acquired a 2012 3.6r 90k miles. How do you like yours being this was 2 years ago? Are they as good or better than the 2.5 cvt versions? Thanks . Love your videos.
@@MrSubaru1387 would you say they are as dependable or more dependable as the 2.5/cvt combo? Real curious 🤔 about it cause I'm going from 2.5 cvt to this 3.6 5eat.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks for your replies. BTW I'm S.C. too. Anderson (South of Greenville). I love Subarus . I've had a many of them . Sold,trade,etc. Probably 50 . I have a small dealership. This is the first H6 I've ever owned. Very interesting. Itll be one of my keepers for sure.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks. Enough to just drive the car a few minutes between fill, or do you need to wait longer (days/weeks of driving) between drain/fills to make sure fluid is mixed?
I'm checking out a lot of your 4th gen 3.6 videos as I am in the market for one. Would the 5EAT be better for pulling a boat (between 1200-1300lbs) than the 2013 2.5 w/CVT I have now? I'm going to look at a 1 owner 2014 3.6 today w/70k, reviewing your videos for red flags to watch for. Some forums I've visited regard the 3.6 5EAT as one of the best Subarus ever made and I noticed you owned one of these as well, would you generally agree? I understand every car is different. I'm open to any models suitable for pulling a load, up to about 2020 (for $$ reasons) but don't see much about Subaru's towing except that CVTs may not be the best.
For the Gen4 2.5 with the CVTs, when re-filling with new CVT II Fluid I've read you need to top-off the fluid when the fluid is between 93 and 115 F. What are some ways to make sure the new fluid is at that temp range? Or can I just make sure I added back what was drained (assuming it was full to begin with) ? I've seen mention of IR Temp Sensors, OBD Apps for your smartphone, etc. This shouldn't be rocket science. Thanks for your thoughts :)
It kind of is becoming rocket science to repair vehicles. Yes, fluid needs to be up to temp. Usually use a scan tool to read the fluid temp. Yes, it should take the same amount drained.
I went to the shop for my car maintenance this morning again. They told me that my car (at around 100K) needs transmission fluid and differential fluid changes. they found that it is highly likely that my car's previous owner has not changed these two yet, since the beginning. Then I asked what is the typical time/miles interval of transmission and differential fluid change. They told me that typically differential fluid is done every 100K and transmission fluid is done every 60K. But when I looked at your differential fluid change video, it is 30K. Could you share some information on how often these two fluid as well as brake fluid need to be changed in terms of milage, given living in the mid-west? I just wanted to keep these numbers in mind. Thanks very much!
Hey Mr. Subaru, I have a 2013 Legacy 3.6R currently approaching 198,000 miles. For the last year, I’ve noticed harsh/clunking downshifts while coming to a stop. The problem has recently become more pronounced. I’m going to swap the AT fluid like in this vídeo, as it’s been roughly 50K since last drain and fill, but what would be the next step if the problem continues? I’m thinking valve body replacement, but I wouldn’t want to spring for one if the problem is likely bigger than that. What’s your take? Any resources for finding individual valves for the valve body? I’ve noticed Subaru doesn’t sell them individually.
Try using royal purples atf fluid should help a lot I also highly recommend using there hmx engine oil I have 254,000 miles on my 2013 3.6 Outback that’s tuned and has multiple other performance things on it it still runs like new it runs much better in that oil and keep your filters clean as well and use good gas
Do u know how much fluid goes into the 07 Subaru Legacy 2.5 i 4 speed automatic transmission I am looking right now at bunch of transmission fluids and I just don't know how much goes into the transmission I'm just going to drain the plug
Be aware that you are only changing some of the fluid as much still remains in the torque converter. If you are changing due to a potential fluid contamination issue, you should repeat this process at least 2 more times, or drain thru the cooler return hose. Power flushing is not recommended as you run the risk of dislodging particles or debris that can then foul the clutches.
@@bobtheelectrician6692 Thanks. Was not talking about a power flush. But yes, it seems three times is needed to make this work correctly which I will do. Thanks for the tips.
Just bought a 2014 outback limited 3.6 with 98k the Subaru dealership i got it from did the full 100k d service. I just noticed when its warm at idle in park mostly it has a weird noise coming from the engine. Its like a thud thud thud thud its sometimes u can hear it other times u can't. Almost like its coming from the centre of the engine but not 100%
@@tomlantis8016 I'm sorry to hear that. I just bought one with 61,000 miles. I'm hoping someone didn't put the wrong transmission fluid in yours prior to subaru doing the 100k service. It would be worth you doing not 1 but 2 drain and refills in a short period of time and see if it fixes it. Good luck sir
@@mikeessary4925 had the same issue on my 2013. Had it checked out today and was told its just rhymaic noise of the boxer engine but I dont agree. Only at idle.
Is there any other fluid u can use the the transmission or is it best to use the oem? Im looking at doing a full fluid change and what to use the best fluid since im heavy footed
Mr Subaru is right. I actually used Amsoil Signature ATF that they said was compatible with my exact Subie (2011 Outback 3.6R 5EAT). Did triple drain and fills at 90k. Fluid level was perfect each time. Transmission started to ship under full throttle and front tires received less power when the rears slipped. WTH. Went back to Idemitsu ATF-HP (they make the Subaru ATF-HP and my dealer even used Idemitsu during factory service with they couldn't get ATF-HP Subaru brand). Immediately problems started going away on first drain and fill. All issues gone by third D&F. Trust me.... just stick with OEM or Idemitsu. Do a drain a fill every 30k, or 15k if you are towing or severe service. I'm at 163k miles and the transmission shifts like new still.
@@DBravo29er wow you really went Through a mess. I stuck with the oem fluid I did a full flush tho. Just disconnected the transmission cooler lines and cycled over 12 quarts. Shifts like a dream now
@@tomlantis8016 Indeed. Glad you went OEM. It's rarely the best option... but, for our cars, it truly is. It's a hybrid synthetic so shorter drain and fills are the only downside.
Ahhhh, dangitall. I drained mine by mistake and the AdvancedAuto site spec'd MAXLIFE DEXRON III/MERCON 3/GA, which was nowhere near as red as what you added. Worse, I added my engine oil to the drain pan so I couldn't measure what came out. Next to impossible to tell the level on the dipstick but it sure looks at full hot, however after a few days I am getting momentary shudder at 50mph.
Thanks for showing us how to work on the 3.6 cars. i feel like your the only one on RUclips who does.
You're welcome. 👍🏻
I agree man...I have a 3.6 legacy...i love it but not many out there and i havent found much on youtube either.
True dat
First of All, love your channel and your the only reason my wife talked me into getting her another Outback(2013 Outback 3.6R). The 5EAT in her car started lurching HARD just a couple months after we got it, setting a permanent code. Found out from the local Subaru that they had already had it in, they thought I was the previous owning, and they had suggested a rebuilt transmission. I did some research and it seems there is a sensor in the transmission around the torque converter that causes the issue. Of course they don't sell the sensor, but they do sell the Valve Body($1100) which has the sensor. So had it replaced and we've put another 20k since then, including two vacation trips to Gatlinburg, TN. Great car, but I'm glad you and other channels like yours are here!!!
Thanks for sharing the issue and the solution.
Just did this on my 2011 3.6 OB after watching your video! Everything underneath matched your 2014 OB. I used the crush washer you listed as well as OEM Subaru ATF. I let mine drain for an hour and was able to to get about 4.5 qts drained, the entire system holds 10.4 so roughly 6 more qts of the old ATF remains but I can already notice a difference in shifting after the first drain and fill! I plan to do at least one more drain and fill using this method within the next week or so, possibly a third depending on available funds.
Thanks for the upload!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Thanks Mr. Subaru! I used this video today to do some work on my friend's car.
Great video! Is there a filter to replace?
there's no transmission oil filter, yes/no that's on another video. it's when you do a tranny rebuild
Subaru Misconceptions - This Is Not A Filter. here's the video i mentioned
1. remove drain plug
2. reinstall drain plug with new crush copper washer part #11126AA050
3. torque to 20Nm or 14.8 ft lbs
4. measure the fluid that was drained and replace accordingly
5. use Subaru ATF-HD. this has replaced GM Dextron in late model Subaru transmissions
6. place funnel in transmission dipstick tube
7. add new oil / check level
8. drive car for operational temperature several miles or 10-15 minutes
9. check level again, if full hot, you're good to go
10. go for a beer 🍺🍻
you can repeat this drain fill procedure about 3 times to fully change the ATF because this only removes 1/3 of the total fluid amount. *Warning* that's a total of 3 beers for me which then i'll be drunk, make sure to wear a muscle t-shirt wink wink
FYI: there's NO transmission oil filter to change. he explains it in other video and i found out by going into the rabbit hole, videos, subaru forums, etc. NOT even behind the battery like other 2009 to 2011 Subaru Twist Oil Filters
Great videos keep them coming. Hope to see front and rear differential oil change
Already filmed, should be up in the next week or so.
Hey Mr. Subaru, love your videos. I just had the valve body and transmission fluid replaced on my 05 OB XT 5EAT with genuine OEM parts. But the tranny still shifts hard sometimes from 1st to 2nd and then downshifts hard from 2nd to 1st. Is this just the car trying to relearn how to shift? This doesn't happen in any other gear changes.
Thanks, glad you did talk and put the information on the screen. Good Job
Thanks for the great video. I think this is in my wheelhouse. I feel good about being able to do it myself since i am always concerned about getting hosed at the transmission places.
Great video, thanks for posting. I've realized a shop recently put the wrong fluid in my transmission and I'm thinking about doing the repair myself, but I can see the fluids mixing during three repeated sessions of fluid drain being a potential issue. Would it be best to take it somewhere they can drain all of the fluid at once instead?
I know this is an older video, but nicely done. Would this be the same procedure for my 2017 Outback 3.6R Limited or did they change up cvt's between 2014 and 2017?
Appreciate it man! About to do an 07 LGT 5EAT drain and fill. Everyone is telling me not to, but I feel like it’s a must since idk when it was last done if ever, with previous owner and it’s got 100k miles. Is there a drain plug on the 5eat also?
Hi, I just want to know the 2013 Subaru outback 3.6r transmission oil pan gasket number, thanks so much
Will just changing the fluid like you did here have any negative issues/effects on the transmission??
I have 151K on my 2012 3.6 Outback and have no idea when/if it was ever done? Just bought it back in August 2021…
Draining it is a different procedure than a full fluid flush. For some reason experienced mechanics seem to have issues with the fluid flush, but the drain & fill is standard maintenance and should be done every 30-50k.
Have you had to resolve any 5eat trans problems from the heavy auto downshifting you get - this would normally throw an error code. Expensive route is a whole new valve body, cheaper route people have said could be a dodgy speed sensor that needs to be replaced. Keen on experience if you've dealt with those issues?
One fault a speed sensor can cause is a massive thump in the driveline (feels like the car has been rear ended). Stopping the engine and restarting is a temporary cure. I had the speed sensor replaced a year ago and the fault has yet to re occur.
Thanks for all the great videos! They've been super helpful. What type of spray are you using to clean off the oil pan when you're done with the job?
Brake cleaner
Is this same for 2016 3.6R with the 5EAT? he transmission psi sensor started leaking so going to change it but not sure how much we lost. Is 4 good to start with on this one
For a 2012…no reason to remove pan and do filter ?
Depends on how you look at it. I'd replace the filter but i'm crazy about maintenance.
Any chance you could make one about changing the instrument cluster out of a 13-14 outback into a 10-12. I have been wanting to do this. Need to know if it works.
Would this be the same set up as a 2015 legacy 3.6?
Is that a cvt transmission?
No it's a 5 speed automatic (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Legacy_(fifth_generation)#Transmissions)
I wouldn't say the fluid was that bad. However it's always a good precaution to refresh even a 1/3 of the fluid. On my forester 2011 I did full replacement with pumping old fluid through return line. Shifting became much smother after that.
I've drained and refilled it 3x since the video.
Hey there, was it necessary to drain it 3 more times ? Wat difference did it make ?
You only drain 1/3 of the total fluid capacity each time you drain the pan. You drain 3 separate times to insure you changed as much of the ATF as possible in the transmission.
@@MrSubaru1387 How many miles do you recommend between each drain and refill?
I believe the interval is 30k miles.
I have the exact same car, SAP exactly. You have exquisite taste Mr. Subaru. Have done the ATF change twice and am at 100k miles using the OEM fluid. I noticed that after 70000 miles, after starting the car on a cold day, the engine really lurches when I shift into drive. Not reverse; only drive. Its quite a lurch. If I let it warm up for around 15 minutes the problem is not as bad, but still there. If I rev it up to 5k RPM in park its much better. For the rest of the day its fine even if it gets cold again, but overnight same problem. On spring, summer, no problems whatsoever. Fluid level is fine for both hot and cold checks. Am I looking at a serious long term problem here with the AT? Took it into the Subaru dealership and they said "dunno, I'll reset the learning computer". Just curious if you have the same problem. Everything else about the car is tip top.
Had the same issue. Problem is that the engine high idles for warm up. Shifting into drive when the engine is idling high will cause the harsh engagement. When you wait 15 mins, idle has dropped down to normal idle speed. Next time, shift from park to N, wait a few seconds, then pull into drive. See if the harshness is still there.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thank you for the great videos and fast responses. I thought maybe I had done something wrong at some point / or the gears were damaged somehow. I also thought maybe some of the idemitsu fluid I put in was bad. I wish I would have found your videos earlier (ESPECIALLY for the spark plug change due to my large gorilla hands fumbling around in there - driver side near steering wheel was a royal pain). Its reassuring to know someone else has noticed this / had this "issue" with the harsh engagement.
Hello.Very cool videos, just a fairy tale. Tell me, why in the automatic transmission you only drain the oil from the pallet and not the system?
Just curious for 2010-14’ Outback 3.6r Offroad upgrade. It has a final gear ratio of 3.083. Can we swap it with the more Stronger 3.58 ratio of the Tribeca 3.6r? Thanks 🙏
Cool idea, do you. Mean to change the differentials?people do it all the time with 4x4s , very cool
Just came across this video and I didn’t realize that you had or have a 3.6 R as well I do my flute about every 30 and I just been running the oem Subaru hp idemitsu fluid, I just wonder if it’s a partial synthetic?
Thank you very much for your great Subaru videos.
Would you please comment on the use of a vacuum extractor to drain the automatic transmission pan thru the dip stick tube?
I have seen people drain their car's oil from above, and I wonder if such a method would work for the ATF fluid drainage as well.
It would save lifting the car and crawling underneath the vehicle, and at my age that's an issue.
It's doable, I just don't have the tool to demonstrate it.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thank you. I will give it a try and give you a followup. Regards.
@MrSubaru1387 I tried the "TopSider" Manual Vacuum Fluid Extractor and drained the automatic transmission pan in my 2014 Outback 3.6 R through the dip stick tube.
On the first attempt, I drained 3 quarts and 13 ounces and replaced the extracted volume with Subaru ATF.
On the second attempt, I drained 4 1/2 quarts. One more to go.
One more drain and fill to go.
12 quarts of fresh OEM ATF at 30, 287 miles has got to be a good thing.
@@jere4524 Thanks for the update
Hello. My 5EAT has some Castrol synthetic in it. Should I drain and fill it 3 times? Or is there any other way to drop the pan and drain more and or replace any filter?
Is there no filter in the 3.6? You didn't change one in your video and I can't seem to find one either.
MrSubaru- youve saved me thousands, thanks. where is the transmission filter? ive got a 2010 3.6r
There isn't one.
well that's weird, but i guess its better than finding out it's permanently inside like the cvt. thanks again
Is there any way you could do a video on how to change the fluid in a 2010-2014 Subaru Outback 2.5 CVT transmission fluid change video? I love your videos!!!
If I can ever get my hands on my brother's 2011 Outback 2.5 Limited, I will.
If you drain the fluid...on the 3.6 can you fill back up using the dipstick tube
Thanks for letting me know
Does this transmission have an external filter? Rockauto sells one for the 3.6 Legacy. I didnt see you change a filter here, so Id assume the filter is an internal screen filter.
Can you please make a video on how to pait or to clean the intake manifold?
Have you come across the cam sensor issue? Mine pops up occasionally. Car drives normal but I'm pretty sure I need the shim to space it properly. I looked it up and they want 80 bucks for a glorified washer. You should do a video about that.
Hi, I just did my 2013 Subaru Outback 3.6R, and I change my transmission oil in the morning, the car is al cold, and I only drin out 3 US qts oil out, and I put 3 qts new oil, I don’t know why you can take out 4 US qts, is because my car is cold? Please let me know thanks
I just got a bid from a local oil lube change place and they wanted $155 to do this. They scare you into making you it's more labor or because it's the transmission it's more expensive.
Can you tell us what known issues, weaknesses of the 5eat
Hi Man. I saw you do not remove the pan. No need to clean it inside and change the magnet ? Got a 04 ez30d with the 5eat (no Si-drive, no paddleshift) Transmission service every 40K miles by Subaru but wanna do it myself next time. Tx on beforehands for your answer and advice.
I appreciate subaru making that common 14mm (and I'm assuming 10x1.25 pitch), instead of the torx head they put on the 05 outback :/.
Great tutorial once again. Quick question : does the flat part of the crush washer rest flat against the drain plug? Or does the flat part rest flat against the pan? Thank you!!!
I personally place the flat side of the washer against the plug. I do this every time I change my oil.
@@TravelingBuildingGrowing thank you! I think that's the right way. When i removed the plug, I noticed it had been previously installed that way by the dealership 👍
Hi. I have the same car. I had my car in the shop in May for valve body replacement. They replaced all my transmission fluid also. Yesterday, my AT temp, park brake, and traction control light came on. I checked my AT fluid level, and it was at low cold. My car was definitely not cold. Any idea of what could cause my fluid to be so low?
Thanks for another great video
what about the filter? something that old should get a filter replacement
This method will mix new and old fluid. Recognize multiple changes will improve the ratio. Have you tried draining, adding 4 quarts. Then remove the trans cooling line at the radiator, start the car and when fluid stops pumping shut off. Then add same amount.
Repeat x3.
I drain and fill, drive a day, drain and fill, drive a day, drain and final refill.
If you have metal shaving circulating, you have bigger issues than a fluid/filter change will fix. It shouldn't really matter at which drain/refill that you replace the spin on filter.
@@MrSubaru1387 Why didn’t you replace the transmission filter in this video? Is it not particularly important?
MrSubaru1387 my wife has a 2014 subaru Legacy does that have the same transmission as your vehicle or cvt
If it's a 3.6R, it's a 5 AT, same as mine. If it's a 2.5i, it's a CVT.
Is the transmission fluid filter easy to access?
Yes, just remove the pan and it pulls right out. There is an o-ring on the filter where it seals with the transmission valve body. Also, there are two types of filters - metal and plastic. I'm not sure if they are equivalent in terms of replacement or if there is a need to replace with an alike design.
MrSubaru, I have a 2011 outback 3.6r, the transmission works fine in auto, but i can't paddle shift gears, I know in auto it shifts up/down no problem, any idea what's going on? electronic issues? thank you!
Did you change the filter as well? Just wasn't sure
There is no filter.
Nope. That's a strainer/pickup. Not a filter.
Is gearbox computer diagnostics required?
anyone know if the AT has a filter or not??
It does!
Hello Mr.Subaru,
I really appreciate your videos. I don’t know if you are able to help me so I’m giving a shot at sending you a message.
I have a 2011 Subaru Outback 3.6R 5EAT.
A little while ago a bunch of lights came on my dash along with the transmission generic code of P0700 (only that code). I followed your video about doing a AT fluid flush and did it successfully. After the first flush, I drove a few miles, something really strange happened after a stop sign: It felt like the transmission started to slip (RPM goes really high) and came back really hard, with a strong metal noise (similar sound, when you are parked in an incline/decline and you move the gear from P to D, without the e-brake on. But a way heavier sound). Sounded like someone hit the underside of my car with a big hammer. It happened once.
I took to my mechanic friend today (which he couldn’t reproduce any of the issues, of course) and asked him to do a brake fluid flush, bleed them and also do a 2nd AT flush. Sure enough, after driving a few miles, going up a hill in slower speed, the transmission did that weird thing again, twice in the roll. I’m not sure what to do.. take to the dealership? My transmission is going bad?
I really appreciate your time in advance.
Thank you!
Hello Mr. Subaru and thanks a for the great tutorials!
For a 2016 Legacy 3.6 with no dipstick (just drain and fill plugs, and I`m not entirely sure where that fill plug is yet) do you recommend doing anything different besides draining and filling?
Thanks!
2016 is a CVT unit. It's a sealed unit. Subaru says don't touch it.
@@MrSubaru1387
Is my 2017 Outback 3.6r also a CVT?
@@89yello yes
Hello! how are you?. I'm Mariano from Argentina and I wanted to ask if it would be the same procedure for a subaru legacy 3.0R 2009. I understand that this process does not completely remove the old ATF oil and it needs at least 2 more changes. I would like to know when to change the oil filter, that is, change the oil filter on the first change or on the second or third change.
Thank you so much!
Bye!
PS: I'm using a translator. sorry for my bad English :P
I forgot! How often or how many km / miles are these replacements recommended to have the atf clean oil completely?
ATF should be changed every 60k miles. Yes, the procedure is quite similar. You can change the spin on transmission filter at any point during the drain and refill.
@@MrSubaru1387 Same procedure on 3.0 engine/5eat. Spin-on filter may be located in the fender beside the battery. Be aware that you are only changing some of the fluid as much still remains in the torque converter. If you are changing due to a potential fluid contamination issue, you should repeat this process at least 2 more times, or check UAMate's method below.
Is the New Subaru HP fluid compatible with 05-09 4eat that used the dexron lll?
I'm not sure. I continue to use Dexron in the Subaru transmissions that call for it.
MrSubaru1387
Right, but dexron lll is no longer available as far as I know. Everything I see nowadays is “compatible with dexron lll, lV, etc. I think you used Castrol in the Legacy video?
I use Valvoline maxlife Dexron.
This is the CVT? Is there a filter on it that needs replacing?
No. This is a 5AT. No filter to change.
Yeah, same on my 2002 3.0L. But nope, they got rid of the external filters unfortunately. They only have the internal mesh screen/pickup on this model. I followed the cooler lines out to the cooler and back. Subaru confirmed no filter as well.
You have a spin on external filter in the bumper/fender well. The "filter" in the pan is just a mesh strainer, not an actual filter.
@@MrSubaru1387 i know this is a pretty old video, but i have an 09 tribeca, every filter i see is the round screw on kind, and i just replaced the turbine speed sensor 2. Should i replace the filter in the transmission? every part store doesnt seem to even carry it
Tribeca might have a remote filter in the bumper, or not at all.
Would this service be the same for most subaru's?
Quite similar. I do have a video on servicing the older 4EAT automatics.
How many miles does the car have?
Believe it was around 60k here.
Hello Mate, may I ask why with 5EAT you didn't take off the cover in comparison to 4EAT ?
And also there is no need to change the AT filter, and is it inside the AT?
Does every time when you drop of the oil that 4 litres comes out?
Thank you for your movies, they are great and hepful :)
Regards!
I dropped the pan on the 4EAT because it had 270k miles on it and the pan was leaking and needed a reseal. I didn't drop the pan on the 5EAT because it only had 60k miles on it. There is no external filter to change on the 5EAT like the 4EAT. About 4 qts come out on a drain. About 1/3 of total capacity.
@@MrSubaru1387 Oh, I see, thank you very much! :)
@@MrSubaru1387 But is there an internal filter you can change while the pan is off ?
Hey,
I just acquired a 2012 3.6r 90k miles. How do you like yours being this was 2 years ago? Are they as good or better than the 2.5 cvt versions? Thanks . Love your videos.
I love the H6 engines. The 5EAT is great. Prefer the driving feel of it to the CVTs.
@@MrSubaru1387 would you say they are as dependable or more dependable as the 2.5/cvt combo? Real curious 🤔 about it cause I'm going from 2.5 cvt to this 3.6 5eat.
H6 gives less trouble than the 2.5
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks for your replies.
BTW I'm S.C. too. Anderson (South of Greenville). I love Subarus . I've had a many of them . Sold,trade,etc. Probably 50 . I have a small dealership. This is the first H6 I've ever owned. Very interesting. Itll be one of my keepers for sure.
@@MrSubaru1387 Just to clarify... do the 2010-2014 generation of outback 3.6's have a TR690 CVT or a 5EAT?
If you want to do the 3x, should you start the car, run the gears, drive it, etc., between each fill?
Yes.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks. Enough to just drive the car a few minutes between fill, or do you need to wait longer (days/weeks of driving) between drain/fills to make sure fluid is mixed?
I'm checking out a lot of your 4th gen 3.6 videos as I am in the market for one. Would the 5EAT be better for pulling a boat (between 1200-1300lbs) than the 2013 2.5 w/CVT I have now? I'm going to look at a 1 owner 2014 3.6 today w/70k, reviewing your videos for red flags to watch for. Some forums I've visited regard the 3.6 5EAT as one of the best Subarus ever made and I noticed you owned one of these as well, would you generally agree? I understand every car is different. I'm open to any models suitable for pulling a load, up to about 2020 (for $$ reasons) but don't see much about Subaru's towing except that CVTs may not be the best.
Would the 3.6 with the 5eat be better at towing than a 2.5i with cvt?
Undoubtedly.
The 2.5i can barely move itself, much less tow anything.
@@boosted_spirit I did end up getting the 3.6 and that is a fairly accurate assessment of the 2.5.😂
For the Gen4 2.5 with the CVTs, when re-filling with new CVT II Fluid I've read you need to top-off the fluid when the fluid is between 93 and 115 F. What are some ways to make sure the new fluid is at that temp range? Or can I just make sure I added back what was drained (assuming it was full to begin with) ? I've seen mention of IR Temp Sensors, OBD Apps for your smartphone, etc. This shouldn't be rocket science. Thanks for your thoughts :)
It kind of is becoming rocket science to repair vehicles. Yes, fluid needs to be up to temp. Usually use a scan tool to read the fluid temp. Yes, it should take the same amount drained.
I went to the shop for my car maintenance this morning again. They told me that my car (at around 100K) needs transmission fluid and differential fluid changes. they found that it is highly likely that my car's previous owner has not changed these two yet, since the beginning. Then I asked what is the typical time/miles interval of transmission and differential fluid change. They told me that typically differential fluid is done every 100K and transmission fluid is done every 60K. But when I looked at your differential fluid change video, it is 30K. Could you share some information on how often these two fluid as well as brake fluid need to be changed in terms of milage, given living in the mid-west? I just wanted to keep these numbers in mind. Thanks very much!
Diff, trans, and brake fluid are on a 30k mile service drain and fill.
Thanks so much for your selfless reply!
Hey Mr. Subaru, I have a 2013 Legacy 3.6R currently approaching 198,000 miles. For the last year, I’ve noticed harsh/clunking downshifts while coming to a stop. The problem has recently become more pronounced. I’m going to swap the AT fluid like in this vídeo, as it’s been roughly 50K since last drain and fill, but what would be the next step if the problem continues? I’m thinking valve body replacement, but I wouldn’t want to spring for one if the problem is likely bigger than that. What’s your take? Any resources for finding individual valves for the valve body? I’ve noticed Subaru doesn’t sell them individually.
Try using royal purples atf fluid should help a lot I also highly recommend using there hmx engine oil I have 254,000 miles on my 2013 3.6 Outback that’s tuned and has multiple other performance things on it it still runs like new it runs much better in that oil and keep your filters clean as well and use good gas
Also check to see if your maf sensor needs cleaning
Did you order the crush washer and fluids online? Or did you go and get them from a dealer?
Dealership.
Have purchased from subaruparts.com before though. Order a lot from them.
Do u know how much fluid goes into the 07 Subaru Legacy 2.5 i 4 speed automatic transmission I am looking right now at bunch of transmission fluids and I just don't know how much goes into the transmission I'm just going to drain the plug
Its TZ1B7 AWD transmission
Do you know if 3.6 has a transmission filter?
It doesn't.
This is just a straight replacement and not a flush, right? Isn't a flush better on the 5 speed? Thanks for anyone who knows
Be aware that you are only changing some of the fluid as much still remains in the torque converter. If you are changing due to a potential fluid contamination issue, you should repeat this process at least 2 more times, or drain thru the cooler return hose. Power flushing is not recommended as you run the risk of dislodging particles or debris that can then foul the clutches.
@@bobtheelectrician6692 Thanks. Was not talking about a power flush. But yes, it seems three times is needed to make this work correctly which I will do. Thanks for the tips.
Does this car have a transmission oil filter?
No.
Hey Mr. Subaru, should i use dexron or Idemitsu HP on my 03 4EAT?
03 should still call for Dexron. Check your owners manual, if you still have it.
No filter change?
What filter?
Just bought a 2014 outback limited 3.6 with 98k the Subaru dealership i got it from did the full 100k d service. I just noticed when its warm at idle in park mostly it has a weird noise coming from the engine. Its like a thud thud thud thud its sometimes u can hear it other times u can't. Almost like its coming from the centre of the engine but not 100%
Did you find out what was causing it?
@@mikeessary4925 no still does it. Every so often.
@@tomlantis8016 I'm sorry to hear that. I just bought one with 61,000 miles. I'm hoping someone didn't put the wrong transmission fluid in yours prior to subaru doing the 100k service. It would be worth you doing not 1 but 2 drain and refills in a short period of time and see if it fixes it. Good luck sir
@@mikeessary4925 had the same issue on my 2013. Had it checked out today and was told its just rhymaic noise of the boxer engine but I dont agree. Only at idle.
@@tomlantis8016 hey thanks for chiming in. It's bs them passing that off as normal.
Is there any other fluid u can use the the transmission or is it best to use the oem? Im looking at doing a full fluid change and what to use the best fluid since im heavy footed
No reason I see to change up over stock.
@@MrSubaru1387 ok thanks didnt know if i could use something else ive heard that the oem is required
Mr Subaru is right. I actually used Amsoil Signature ATF that they said was compatible with my exact Subie (2011 Outback 3.6R 5EAT). Did triple drain and fills at 90k. Fluid level was perfect each time. Transmission started to ship under full throttle and front tires received less power when the rears slipped. WTH. Went back to Idemitsu ATF-HP (they make the Subaru ATF-HP and my dealer even used Idemitsu during factory service with they couldn't get ATF-HP Subaru brand). Immediately problems started going away on first drain and fill. All issues gone by third D&F. Trust me.... just stick with OEM or Idemitsu. Do a drain a fill every 30k, or 15k if you are towing or severe service.
I'm at 163k miles and the transmission shifts like new still.
@@DBravo29er wow you really went Through a mess. I stuck with the oem fluid I did a full flush tho. Just disconnected the transmission cooler lines and cycled over 12 quarts. Shifts like a dream now
@@tomlantis8016 Indeed. Glad you went OEM. It's rarely the best option... but, for our cars, it truly is. It's a hybrid synthetic so shorter drain and fills are the only downside.
Is that a diesel pretty loud engine sound.
3.6r has a distinct sound, I think it's from the unequal length manifold?
They have equal length exhaust manifolds.
@@MrSubaru1387 is it just the boxer engine sound? I've always wondered this too.
Yes.
Got the same old funnel too 😂
Ahhhh, dangitall. I drained mine by mistake and the AdvancedAuto site spec'd MAXLIFE DEXRON III/MERCON 3/GA, which was nowhere near as red as what you added. Worse, I added my engine oil to the drain pan so I couldn't measure what came out. Next to impossible to tell the level on the dipstick but it sure looks at full hot, however after a few days I am getting momentary shudder at 50mph.
Hello is there a filter to replace??
No.
mines a 2013...i got it with 30k miles and Im not at 154k. ouch
AUSTRALIA 🇦🇺, MY MECHANIC TOLD ME IT WASNT NECESSARY TO CHANGE, 180 klm, 3.6, is this true. ????