For those that are asking, the gear system is called a Howimat. There's not a lot of information on them, so if you find more info make a post about it in the comments!
Just wondering if you're still planning on making a video about the Howmit drive? I'm very interested in it as I'm currently working making a large 5 axis. I'm curious to know how stable your setup is being made from extrusion? I'm currently going back and forth between that and steel square tubing.
Love the work. The pile of "this part was replaced with something else" definitely took up more room than the finished project. Reminds me of my projects.
Nice vid man. FYI, You never want to twist wires together UNLESS they're a differential pair or power and ground. For instance, if you had a serial transmit and receive set, you'd want to keep those separate as twisting them together would cause cross talk, especially at higher frequencies (baud rates). A "pair" when talking about twisted pairs is usually a differential pair, for instance a CAN line would use a coupled or "twisted" pair when routing the circuit. This turns the prospective EMI into common mode noise that is then ignored during differential signal interpretation.
Die punch is great for large fan holes. Excellent project and documentation. A lot of insight can be gathered from this project. Looking forwarded to seeing what other ideas pop up here.
You cool! : D I'm very glad that you're back on RUclips. : D Next step - switch to profiled rail and recirculating ball linear bearings instead of round shafts. For example - the original HIWIN. This manufacturer has proven itself well, but only the original and not a fake product.
Looking forward to seeing your video no the cycloidal ball reducer. I had not been impressed with the other types. It is good to hear that your experience with them confirms my suspicions.
Very impressive! I have built a few large format CNC machines operating on LinuxCNC over the past eight years but have to admit this mechanism next level stuff. Great to see such dedication to the machine building craft.
That's a cool gear mechanism! looks like a simplified Mini Galaxie from Wittenstein. The design trades a little bit of torque capacity and torsional rigidity for simplicity and compactness. Would be great to hear more about this drive and how you made it.
@@bogas78 I only found info on cycloidal ball reducer as most people comment around here, but the principle is by far not the same, here we get the balls reciprocating in a up down motion inside the disk, please help a friend out if you guys got more luck! Meanwhile waiting for the content owner to show up in the comment section. Much appreciated!
46:23 When you are trying to show a small piece in frame and want the video camera to focus the part, you must use the palm of your hand as a background or piece of paper, or else the video camera has hard time focusing. Excellent work on you 5 axis. I like the rigidity of the brackets...
The Backlash - belts stretch and contract. Maybe a little bit but they do. Thry to compensate it or remove the belts entirely with gears if possible. At least the gears have predictable backlash and it could be compensated with the software easily. Love the video great work keep on going
If linuxCNC use pivot point for it's TCPC, the centers of ration need to be located perfectly to have perfect rotation. Same as on industrial machines : cut one one side, do a 180°, recut, measure the tickness and adjust accordingly the pivot center. the hard thing is that you need to compensate the rotation AXIS of 2 axis, switching back and forth as you compensate as they are sort of linked.
When you're machining aluminum, and you can't use coolant, try and use an air vortex cooler. We used to do this when cutting open sealed boxes so we could harvest circuit boards out of them. Worked great for clearing chips from the endmill, and keeping temps down. It does require a beefy compressor/air supply though.
I want to see everything you have. I will not understand much of it (I don’t even know how to turn on a computer) ,but I’m trying some. Thank you for allowing me to learn at least a little from you.
A redesign of articulating head to get some more clearance to the table, longer belts, rotate mechanisms upwards.
10 месяцев назад+13
Would you be willing to do a deep dive on your drive (halomat)? I havent found it online or to be used for industrial purposes. Also as you mentioned alot of people are finding out the hard way that harmonic drives or cyclodal drives arent good when they are 3d printed. Just to talk more about how they work and how to design them for the correct reduction ratio and so on.
Hi Dylan! Thanks for this video! I'm glad you found a solution to the flex spline problem. I'm looking forward to the video about the gear reduction device you used. Happy New Year and I hope you enjoy Texas!
since people have been asking. its called a planar ball reducer they are known and studied and there are reasons they are not used. ie Hertzian contact instead of line contact of cycloidal or harmonic. meaning they have lower stiffness. they are really just a differently shaped cycloidal drive. also called cycloidal ball transmission
Yeah pretty much. I’m not sure how zbl is achieved without the drive on the same axis. Stiffness could be improved using 3 wave peaks. But I can’t see mounting a motor without a worm or recirculating balls powering the drive platen that introduces backlash.
The backlash is coming from the slop in all 3 axis with the round rails in an improper load bearing application on 2 of them on the side of the bearing housing.
Awesome work on the machine, and interesting way of getting it to work. But the downside of that design is rigidity. You can take shallow cuts with small tools. I know its a hobby machine but it gets really old really fast waiting forever for the machine to nibble out anything bigger. For the time and energy put in this I would have made the machine base around 5 axis table / table to get more rigidity. Don’t get me wrong you made an amazing machine, just my two cents in the matter.
Great video! I work on CNC machines for a living and i learned a bunch from this. The controller i work with the most is Fagor. They have offsets that can be used to correct the TCP errors you were trying to describe in the video. I would expect there is an equivalent with your controller especially as some head designs require these to be used as they cannot be physically aligned. I can send you information on how the offsets are used on Fagor controls if you think it would be of any help.
Holy cow that was a lot of tape and glue and facing work. I thought aluminum plate could be bought fairly precise and flat? Do you think the work facing it was needed?
The rails are crappie, mate. That's at least one of the big problems, in my opinion. Go with 100mm granite block and 50mm the rest and 35 to 50mm rails to stop the twisting.
Thanks for the heads-up on the gear reduction. I'm very interested in the design especially as used in 4th axis. I'm not sure if you are using a tool length touch off sensor? If you are not it should help your accuracy. It also reduces the tool change effort so you can throw in a chamfer bit. (much easier and better looking than hand finish) f360 chamfer operation is a very easy last step, especially when you have a plate full of parts.
I'm rebuilding my router for the third time. Last iteration was close to your current implementation. Next build ditches the aluminum plate for cast iron table saw tips filled with grouting cement. Even with 3/4" al plate I was seeing too much flex which may be what you think is backlash.
Amazing, and something along the lines of what I have been trying to figure out for a while. Just very very new to CNC and the computer control side is where I get stuck. It is awesome you moved to NM as well. Just be careful, we call it the land of entrapment for a reason. Is there any way to contact you? Would love to talk with you on a few questions. One day would love to get a chance to work with you, might also be able to offer you some shop space. Keep safe. Razor
I'm thinking of building a 3 axis machine with similar xyz dimensions. I'm on a budget so I'm wondering how you like the aluminum chassis vs steel? Are there any good example projects that you know of on the web?
Thanks for posting the project. Building the prototype is one thing. Finding software to do something with it is quite another. The usual solutions are very expensive. I built a 5 axis solution for my aim of decorating the surfaces of my wood turned objects. The A axis is a usual rotary but my B axis solution is very simple, very rigid and cheap to make. It is suitable for an 800w dc motor at least. I wouldn’t bother hanging a 2.2kw spindle on it = too heavy. I use an inexpensive 32 bit control card with GrblHal, and use Grblgru control software = free. GrblHal has backlash compensation as well as G93 capability amongst other features. Grblgru can wrap any DXF or SVG file that’s suitable around a STL model of my workpiece and generate the GCode necessary for use. Here’s a short video of my solution. ruclips.net/video/Q3nN6Hr2vbg/видео.htmlsi=5a5KZ6NJwH-PuzLd. Happy prototyping.
Haha... "if acetone causes cancer ... ". That's likely one of the several likely outcomes. I'm pretty reckless with my health, so this advice isn't criticizing... it's just FYI ... Anything that produces VOC (volatile organic compounds) is very bad to be inhaling. Fumes from gas, diesel, paint, paint thinner, brake cleaner, Varsol, acetone and even isopropyl alcohol. Exposure to these things will cause liver and kidney failure, chemical sensitivity, arthritis, respiratory issues chronic rashes. I know an old painter who got chemical sensitivity and pretty much had to live in a bubble. Death is not the worst thing that can happen. My father died fairly quickly from lymphoma (mechanic for 40 years) one of those tough old guys who washer stubborn stuff off his hands with WD40 and varsol... he got the easy way out as chemical sensitivity means if you pass someone in a hallway wearing too much perfume you have a severe reaction , you can use soap or shaving cream etc. Again... smelling my hoodie right now, most people wouldn't want to be sitting next to me because I smell like exhaust fumes. I'm not the safety police, just a passerby 👍
at 29:46 you use a German word, but (as a German) I cant tell what that word is supposed to be. And I cant even think of anything that sounds remotely similar that might fit either.
@@satchelsieniewicz5824 I mean thanks for stating what it is called, but that was not at all my question. I just wanted to know what that supposedly German word he used for it was.
I'm asking myself, why do you think you need a 5 axis CNC? I get the 4th if you're really into milling on the OD of round parts, but the 5th axis on the head seems kinda overkill for almost anything hobbyists do.. With one or two more clamping positions usually almost everything can be done with only 3 axis 5 axis is used in big industrial settings where time is money, and still have the problem of lacking rigidity in comparison with classic 3 axis machines. The machine kinematics are hard to figure out, as you've found out yourself.. so i just don't understand why it's necessary, or do you just like it? Then I get it, otherwise you'd definitely be better off just doing 3 or 4 axis
@@DylanEdmiston I doubt many even do more than fixed axis milling, and if you're working with fixed axis you could as well do it in a separate clamping (I hope i use the right words here :D) I think the problem is really the rigidity you sacrifice for the fifth axis isn't really worth the benefits... I've worked with 40 ton parts on huge portal mills (both on fixed heads and 5axis), and very rarely I used the 4th And 5th axis, in fact even on those huge machines the lacking rigidity limited the precision and cutting ability quite a bit... Yes doing an angled surface with a big mill in one go is neat, but that's again just time saving and can be done on a 3 axis as well with the right tools.. and time saving usually isn't a really big factor for home gamer mills right? Don't get me wrong, I love the project you did, it's really cool, and if you get the kinematics figured out I'd love to see it do simultaneous milling, I just think it's not the appropriate choice for 99% of home gamers, and hence the lack of projects using that approach to 5 axis..
For those that are asking, the gear system is called a Howimat. There's not a lot of information on them, so if you find more info make a post about it in the comments!
Just wondering if you're still planning on making a video about the Howmit drive? I'm very interested in it as I'm currently working making a large 5 axis.
I'm curious to know how stable your setup is being made from extrusion? I'm currently going back and forth between that and steel square tubing.
Love the work. The pile of "this part was replaced with something else" definitely took up more room than the finished project. Reminds me of my projects.
Thanks for documenting your project, I hadn't heard of that ball bearing harmonic thing before, neat
Nice vid man. FYI, You never want to twist wires together UNLESS they're a differential pair or power and ground. For instance, if you had a serial transmit and receive set, you'd want to keep those separate as twisting them together would cause cross talk, especially at higher frequencies (baud rates). A "pair" when talking about twisted pairs is usually a differential pair, for instance a CAN line would use a coupled or "twisted" pair when routing the circuit. This turns the prospective EMI into common mode noise that is then ignored during differential signal interpretation.
Interesting
That's a good bit of information.
Agreed. It would make sense for A+/A- to be twisted together, and B+/B-, but spindles are 3-phase so that would not make sense.
Die punch is great for large fan holes. Excellent project and documentation. A lot of insight can be gathered from this project. Looking forwarded to seeing what other ideas pop up here.
You cool! : D I'm very glad that you're back on RUclips. : D Next step - switch to profiled rail and recirculating ball linear bearings instead of round shafts. For example - the original HIWIN. This manufacturer has proven itself well, but only the original and not a fake product.
Looking forward to seeing your video no the cycloidal ball reducer. I had not been impressed with the other types. It is good to hear that your experience with them confirms my suspicions.
Very impressive! I have built a few large format CNC machines operating on LinuxCNC over the past eight years but have to admit this mechanism next level stuff. Great to see such dedication to the machine building craft.
Fantastic project. I’m super interested in a deep dive on the ball bearing reducing drive you are using.
That's a cool gear mechanism! looks like a simplified Mini Galaxie from Wittenstein. The design trades a little bit of torque capacity and torsional rigidity for simplicity and compactness. Would be great to hear more about this drive and how you made it.
How is it called? Tried to google it, but I can’t find anything about it. Thanks!
@@robytryall I'm trying to find informatiuon about it as well and without any result
Yes, very similar, though this one is easier to manufacture.
@@bogas78 I only found info on cycloidal ball reducer as most people comment around here, but the principle is by far not the same, here we get the balls reciprocating in a up down motion inside the disk, please help a friend out if you guys got more luck! Meanwhile waiting for the content owner to show up in the comment section. Much appreciated!
Hey @@DylanEdmiston! Is there a chance you can give us a documentation on the wave ball reducer?
Definitely very interested to get more info on your harmonic drive with steel balls thing ;)
46:23 When you are trying to show a small piece in frame and want the video camera to focus the part, you must use the palm of your hand as a background or piece of paper, or else the video camera has hard time focusing. Excellent work on you 5 axis. I like the rigidity of the brackets...
Or use manual focus and set it at the correct depth for the shot.
The Backlash - belts stretch and contract. Maybe a little bit but they do. Thry to compensate it or remove the belts entirely with gears if possible. At least the gears have predictable backlash and it could be compensated with the software easily. Love the video great work keep on going
If linuxCNC use pivot point for it's TCPC, the centers of ration need to be located perfectly to have perfect rotation. Same as on industrial machines : cut one one side, do a 180°, recut, measure the tickness and adjust accordingly the pivot center. the hard thing is that you need to compensate the rotation AXIS of 2 axis, switching back and forth as you compensate as they are sort of linked.
When you're machining aluminum, and you can't use coolant, try and use an air vortex cooler. We used to do this when cutting open sealed boxes so we could harvest circuit boards out of them. Worked great for clearing chips from the endmill, and keeping temps down. It does require a beefy compressor/air supply though.
I want to see everything you have. I will not understand much of it (I don’t even know how to turn on a computer) ,but I’m trying some. Thank you for allowing me to learn at least a little from you.
A redesign of articulating head to get some more clearance to the table, longer belts, rotate mechanisms upwards.
Would you be willing to do a deep dive on your drive (halomat)? I havent found it online or to be used for industrial purposes. Also as you mentioned alot of people are finding out the hard way that harmonic drives or cyclodal drives arent good when they are 3d printed. Just to talk more about how they work and how to design them for the correct reduction ratio and so on.
its called a planar ball transmission or cycloidal ball reducer
Whoa now thats cool man! I'm getting ready to build my first machine right now and stumbled across your channel. I look forward to watching more!
Hi Dylan! Thanks for this video! I'm glad you found a solution to the flex spline problem. I'm looking forward to the video about the gear reduction device you used.
Happy New Year and I hope you enjoy Texas!
Thanks Gary!
Crazy project, well done! Really interested in learning more about that gear reduction!!
This is so impressive mate. As someone that put together a 3 axis router and barely played around with mach3 to cut wood, this is totally bananas!
since people have been asking. its called a planar ball reducer they are known and studied and there are reasons they are not used. ie Hertzian contact instead of line contact of cycloidal or harmonic. meaning they have lower stiffness. they are really just a differently shaped cycloidal drive. also called cycloidal ball transmission
Yeah pretty much. I’m not sure how zbl is achieved without the drive on the same axis. Stiffness could be improved using 3 wave peaks. But I can’t see mounting a motor without a worm or recirculating balls powering the drive platen that introduces backlash.
The backlash is coming from the slop in all 3 axis with the round rails in an improper load bearing application on 2 of them on the side of the bearing housing.
awsome stuff, thanks! Could you write down the name of the special drive you´re using now or how i can find it?
its called a planar ball transmission or cycloidal ball reducer
Remarkable offer to show thank you for your wonderful content
Thanks for showing this off, Dylan!:)
I also love your safety shoes ... :P
I thought i was a fixed ideas type of person... Until i saw this video... 😅
You are amazing bruh
You're back lets freaking go!
Awesome work on the machine, and interesting way of getting it to work. But the downside of that design is rigidity. You can take shallow cuts with small tools. I know its a hobby machine but it gets really old really fast waiting forever for the machine to nibble out anything bigger.
For the time and energy put in this I would have made the machine base around 5 axis table / table to get more rigidity.
Don’t get me wrong you made an amazing machine, just my two cents in the matter.
Great video! I work on CNC machines for a living and i learned a bunch from this.
The controller i work with the most is Fagor. They have offsets that can be used to correct the TCP errors you were trying to describe in the video. I would expect there is an equivalent with your controller especially as some head designs require these to be used as they cannot be physically aligned. I can send you information on how the offsets are used on Fagor controls if you think it would be of any help.
Interesting. Yeah that would be great thanks. You should see my email under my about. You can also find me on Instagram at ironmandylane
Holy cow that was a lot of tape and glue and facing work. I thought aluminum plate could be bought fairly precise and flat? Do you think the work facing it was needed?
The rails are crappie, mate. That's at least one of the big problems, in my opinion. Go with 100mm granite block and 50mm the rest and 35 to 50mm rails to stop the twisting.
You can spray wd40 on bit to keep aluminum from clogging bits
Great project, would love a video on the gearbox design! What was the name?
Thanks for the heads-up on the gear reduction. I'm very interested in the design especially as used in 4th axis. I'm not sure if you are using a tool length touch off sensor? If you are not it should help your accuracy. It also reduces the tool change effort so you can throw in a chamfer bit. (much easier and better looking than hand finish) f360 chamfer operation is a very easy last step, especially when you have a plate full of parts.
I'm rebuilding my router for the third time. Last iteration was close to your current implementation. Next build ditches the aluminum plate for cast iron table saw tips filled with grouting cement. Even with 3/4" al plate I was seeing too much flex which may be what you think is backlash.
Those inductive limit switches/proximity sensors are huge! why are they soo big? ive seen them in much smaller sizes, like 1/2 in diameter.
Would love to have a cnc one day.
Yay! Safety sandals! ;)
Nice built, well done!
How do you get your contours so clean using just a CNC? What bit and step over do you use?
Happy new year
Video on the gear reduction!
Amazing, and something along the lines of what I have been trying to figure out for a while. Just very very new to CNC and the computer control side is where I get stuck. It is awesome you moved to NM as well. Just be careful, we call it the land of entrapment for a reason. Is there any way to contact you? Would love to talk with you on a few questions. One day would love to get a chance to work with you, might also be able to offer you some shop space.
Keep safe.
Razor
I'm thinking of building a 3 axis machine with similar xyz dimensions. I'm on a budget so I'm wondering how you like the aluminum chassis vs steel? Are there any good example projects that you know of on the web?
Congratulations. What drill bit do you use to do the flattening? What you do at minute 2:25 of the video
I would print a fan blade to go on end mill its blows the chips away keep everything clean
That is so cool😮 absolutely loved it❤ awesome job buddy💪💪
Super cool project
Is the backlash in the head or can it be that your rails can't stand the weight when the head is tilted?
And btw, awesome job!
Ever think of using Mightee bites instead for at least the first operation.
That’s a good option. I don’t currently own any.
Good job.Next one six axis?
Thanks for posting the project. Building the prototype is one thing. Finding software to do something with it is quite another. The usual solutions are very expensive. I built a 5 axis solution for my aim of decorating the surfaces of my wood turned objects. The A axis is a usual rotary but my B axis solution is very simple, very rigid and cheap to make. It is suitable for an 800w dc motor at least. I wouldn’t bother hanging a 2.2kw spindle on it = too heavy. I use an inexpensive 32 bit control card with GrblHal, and use Grblgru control software = free. GrblHal has backlash compensation as well as G93 capability amongst other features. Grblgru can wrap any DXF or SVG file that’s suitable around a STL model of my workpiece and generate the GCode necessary for use. Here’s a short video of my solution. ruclips.net/video/Q3nN6Hr2vbg/видео.htmlsi=5a5KZ6NJwH-PuzLd. Happy prototyping.
Hi very cool project! What resin do you use to print the prototypes?
Sirayatech blu 👌🏻
felicidades!!
What software are you using for cam?
You are perfect man
Great job. Very motivating 😊
Impressive machine!
Excellent work bro!
You mention you don’t like the LinuxCNC Interface.
Did you try to change from the Standard UI?
I love it, well done :D
Really impressive!!
Very nice❤. Lot of work.
Haha... "if acetone causes cancer ... ". That's likely one of the several likely outcomes. I'm pretty reckless with my health, so this advice isn't criticizing... it's just FYI ... Anything that produces VOC (volatile organic compounds) is very bad to be inhaling. Fumes from gas, diesel, paint, paint thinner, brake cleaner, Varsol, acetone and even isopropyl alcohol.
Exposure to these things will cause liver and kidney failure, chemical sensitivity, arthritis, respiratory issues chronic rashes. I know an old painter who got chemical sensitivity and pretty much had to live in a bubble. Death is not the worst thing that can happen. My father died fairly quickly from lymphoma (mechanic for 40 years) one of those tough old guys who washer stubborn stuff off his hands with WD40 and varsol... he got the easy way out as chemical sensitivity means if you pass someone in a hallway wearing too much perfume you have a severe reaction , you can use soap or shaving cream etc.
Again... smelling my hoodie right now, most people wouldn't want to be sitting next to me because I smell like exhaust fumes. I'm not the safety police, just a passerby 👍
Lol hmmm
Is the aluminum profile size 80mm×80mm?
coool project, any chance in business collab?
Whats the name of the drive? I found similar things but not quite the same and would love to read more about it !
👆🏻
wow awesome, johnnyQ90 could upgrade to this from his pocketNC...he prototypes all the time.
I'd like one with 3in. ball screws and 30hp motor
at 29:46 you use a German word, but (as a German) I cant tell what that word is supposed to be. And I cant even think of anything that sounds remotely similar that might fit either.
yeah i can't figure out what search terms to use
its called a planar ball transmission or cycloidal ball reducer
@@satchelsieniewicz5824 I mean thanks for stating what it is called, but that was not at all my question. I just wanted to know what that supposedly German word he used for it was.
@@Moehre040 yeah no idea what that is just thought you were looking for the mechanism like me. trying to be helpful
Nice work
How long did that first set of parts you made take?
About 2-3 months
👍👍
4th axis with a trunnion and a vice you can clock will give you pour mans 5th axis
Software?
What Clue is this for glueing the Parts together
In the attic with the candlestick
You might want to get rid of this "Amm" in your speech first and broadcast then
I'm asking myself, why do you think you need a 5 axis CNC?
I get the 4th if you're really into milling on the OD of round parts, but the 5th axis on the head seems kinda overkill for almost anything hobbyists do..
With one or two more clamping positions usually almost everything can be done with only 3 axis
5 axis is used in big industrial settings where time is money, and still have the problem of lacking rigidity in comparison with classic 3 axis machines.
The machine kinematics are hard to figure out, as you've found out yourself.. so i just don't understand why it's necessary, or do you just like it?
Then I get it, otherwise you'd definitely be better off just doing 3 or 4 axis
Depending on the features there are def parts that cannot be reasonably machined on anything other than a 5 axis.
@@DylanEdmiston I doubt many even do more than fixed axis milling, and if you're working with fixed axis you could as well do it in a separate clamping (I hope i use the right words here :D)
I think the problem is really the rigidity you sacrifice for the fifth axis isn't really worth the benefits...
I've worked with 40 ton parts on huge portal mills (both on fixed heads and 5axis), and very rarely I used the 4th And 5th axis, in fact even on those huge machines the lacking rigidity limited the precision and cutting ability quite a bit... Yes doing an angled surface with a big mill in one go is neat, but that's again just time saving and can be done on a 3 axis as well with the right tools.. and time saving usually isn't a really big factor for home gamer mills right?
Don't get me wrong, I love the project you did, it's really cool, and if you get the kinematics figured out I'd love to see it do simultaneous milling, I just think it's not the appropriate choice for 99% of home gamers, and hence the lack of projects using that approach to 5 axis..
toe clamps, dingus
If you could only stopp "AAAA" and "UUUMM"
Axeees? What the hell is axeees?
What 5 axis Cad/cam are you using
nice!