Your right about the extra time, but if I don't move the guides out of the way I can't make sure the tension of the blade is correct. The check for proper tension is moving the blade no more than 1/4 to 1/8 in with my finger. The guides are in the way. plus, the guides are important to get a straight cut, and worth the time it takes to get them set right. thanks for the feedback.
@cliffscuts5948 does it not have a set amount of turns on the tension handle or a torque spec? Once the guides are set so you have the proper clearance, you shouldn't have to touch them. I'm not familiar with that saw but, simply pushing down on the blade with your finger seems a little Mikey Mouse.
The manual for the machine called out the 1/4 to 1/8 deflection, a set number of turns or a torque spec would be a great quick check to get going milling, but the finger method is a pretty common thing, I've tightened many an alternator and fan belt that way on cars and other machinery. also, my grizzly band saw calls out the same method for its tension check of the metal blades. once the tension is set and I stop work I turn the tension hand bar two full turns to take tension off the blade. and when I start up days later, I turn it back two full turns. that is unless I get in a hurry and forget to tension the blade and start the engine. If that happens then I replace the blade because I messed it up. Thanks for the interest I hope I've answered your question and I'll try to get the question into my next video for everyone to learn from. Subscribe and like !! Cliff@@SteveBowers-h5p
Sorry to hear you're not likening your sawmill; I've cut a lot of lumber with mine. I don't think mine is a wood miser by any means. what's the issue with yours?
Good video. I have a 26" Bozeman from Princess Auto which is almost identical to the TMG. It does take longer to adjust things on these cheaper mills but not bad once you do it a few times. It really helps if the tracking is still good after installing a new blade. My yellow guard plugs up as well but I have been running without it.
I agree the tracking can take time when it's not good. I think I will try running without that yellow guard also thanks for the idea. I also think that changing the blade, and setting the guides is so important for the correct and continued operation of the saw, why rush it, take the time you need to double check everything is tight and spaced properly. thanks for the comment!@@leftyleeman
Seems like a lot of extra work and time to losen off the guides??
Your right about the extra time, but if I don't move the guides out of the way I can't make sure the tension of the blade is correct. The check for proper tension is moving the blade no more than 1/4 to 1/8 in with my finger. The guides are in the way. plus, the guides are important to get a straight cut, and worth the time it takes to get them set right. thanks for the feedback.
@cliffscuts5948 does it not have a set amount of turns on the tension handle or a torque spec? Once the guides are set so you have the proper clearance, you shouldn't have to touch them. I'm not familiar with that saw but, simply pushing down on the blade with your finger seems a little Mikey Mouse.
The manual for the machine called out the 1/4 to 1/8 deflection, a set number of turns or a torque spec would be a great quick check to get going milling, but the finger method is a pretty common thing, I've tightened many an alternator and fan belt that way on cars and other machinery. also, my grizzly band saw calls out the same method for its tension check of the metal blades. once the tension is set and I stop work I turn the tension hand bar two full turns to take tension off the blade. and when I start up days later, I turn it back two full turns. that is unless I get in a hurry and forget to tension the blade and start the engine. If that happens then I replace the blade because I messed it up.
Thanks for the interest I hope I've answered your question and I'll try to get the question into my next video for everyone to learn from. Subscribe and like !!
Cliff@@SteveBowers-h5p
New owner of this saw and it is of such poor quality that it is unusable Do not buy its is a waste of money and Customer service will not help
Sorry to hear you're not likening your sawmill; I've cut a lot of lumber with mine. I don't think mine is a wood miser by any means. what's the issue with yours?
omg could have changed 4 times by now
How would you have changed the blade? I'm open to suggestions. what type of a mill do you have?
Good video. I have a 26" Bozeman from Princess Auto which is almost identical to the TMG. It does take longer to adjust things on these cheaper mills but not bad once you do it a few times. It really helps if the tracking is still good after installing a new blade. My yellow guard plugs up as well but I have been running without it.
@@cliffscuts5948 same as u same way without loosen guides 10 mins tops goes on to the same place old came off almost every time
I agree the tracking can take time when it's not good. I think I will try running without that yellow guard also thanks for the idea. I also think that changing the blade, and setting the guides is so important for the correct and continued operation of the saw, why rush it, take the time you need to double check everything is tight and spaced properly. thanks for the comment!@@leftyleeman
A small planter!
how does 9" x15" sound 9 inches tall 15 inches long in a V with the ends acting as legs to keep the body for the ground for good drainage?
Yes please!
Looks like you’re all set up to make something super cool for me!
thanks Brenda Private what do you consider cool for you. it has to be fast so I can take it to you in pinedale!
A small planter!