Thank you. My dealer told me my fridge was shot and needed a new one. One year old norcold. Watched your videos and now it works perfect again and it didn't cost me anything but an hours time.
Darren, I asked Dometic to explain the relationship between the thermistor and the buttons on the eyebrow board. They could not! Your explanation makes perfect sense! Thank you!
Thank you for telling me about the arctic mode. The thermister was hanging off the bottom and the fridge had turned into a freezer. I had no idea how to get it warmer because it literally couldn't go any lower. You're a life saver
YES! Thank goodness. Just purchased my first caravan ever and all of a sudden my fridge has frozen almost everything! Noticed that little cable hanging and tucked it back into the slider. I saw a fellow camper had poked a hole into the slider and zip tied the cable to it so it stopped falling out :) I’m going to do that. Fingers crossed my fridge no longer freezes all of my contents! 🤞🏻
Finally! Somebody explained the relationship between the control panel buttons and the thermistor. Thanks! I wish the Dometic owners manual explained this.
Thank you so much! My fridge has not been working properly for a week or two and I thought I was going to have to pay $$$$$'s to fix it Thanks to your very clear instructions; it is in artic mode 👏👏👏 Going to put the mister - it had slid to the bottom- back on now.
Hi Bill, Thanks so much for your continued involvement in our channel. We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks Happy Camping, My RV Works Media Team
@@MyRVWorkswhat the highest you can put it up on the fin mine is on the right side the clip was rusted I removed it clean it and placed it a little higher than it was
Found 2 fixes just by watching your videos . Frig temp better after sliding up on the whachamacall it . I will be putting a trap on the drain hose . PLUS everything else i found needed to be done by watching your videos . thank you so much
This was a great video Mr. Koepp, helping remove some of the gas/electric voodoo magic. I had been reading the manual, but your teaching skills really broke it down. Reminded me of some military instructors. They had your style of instruction, since they actually could use, and have used the systems they were talking about. Many of the college instructors, no real world skills. Thanks again, sir!
Awesome info! I knew about the slide thing on the fins, but didn’t know about the logistics of the buttons on the outside and how they worked together. Thanks! 👍
I recently bought a used fifth wheel and couldn't figure out how to turn my refrigerator temperature down, it was literally a freezer until I watched your video which makes perfect sense, I saw the wire dangling near the fin but no slider for it so I duct tape it on the Finn and now it works perfectly, thank you so much the only thing is I don't have the slider for 12345 on this refrigerator?
Thank you from all the less smart people. This really helped me. I like the way he tries to put it simply but in the end you understand the complexity of it .
Thanks for the info on Arctic Mode... news to me how I could cool things down quickly. When I start my fridge I add a few half gallon milk cartons of ice to help it along. My Dometic is in a 2016 Leprechaun and does not have the buttons that tell the boiler how long to stay on, maybe they "moved on" from those buttons. I have a button to select electric, one for LP and one for Auto. Very simplified. Thanks for your videos. I choose to have technicians do the work when I need it but I like understanding the problems and the process. ✌☮
You get a 5 out of 5 stars. Giving us examples to understand made all the difference. Now I know where to start with my DIY fix on the 2020 frig. thanx.
Great video, once again. It's interesting that the thermistor seems to be one of the least documented features of a refrigerator. I read about it in a manual somewhere but, in all of the blogs on the Facebook not one even suggested to check the inside of the fridge to see if its setup properly. Thanks again for the excellent insite into the world of RV's.
Well you haven't answered my question but I did find the manual for my Norcold N811 and on page 9 is say to move the Thermistor to the left for colder temps and right for warmer temps moving it only one or two fins at a time. I have tried this and it works.
Can you explain HOW the position of the thermistor on the fin makes a difference in temperature reading? In other words, why does being higher on the fin make my fridge colder than when it is in the lower position?
The temperature in these fridges varies from coldest at the top, to warmest at the bottom. The fins are very cold near the top, because the freezer is right there.
Mine in a Coachmen Class A just has a plastic clip with nothing buried in or connected to it. I'm pretty tech savvy, been voiding warranties since 1975, I spent 10 yrs in radio learning from some great engineers and was a digital systems specialist (fancy copier dewd) for 16 yrs... but for the LIFE OF ME, i can't see how this simple piece of plastic could possibly have *any* influence whatsoever in affecting my fridge temp. No wires on that fin either, traces, etc... its justa fin with a plastic clip on it. 🤔😳🤪 For the OP: but winded for about :53 worth of info... but thanks for the upload mahn! 🖖
So right now it's August 2020 I'm in Southern California experiencing a heat wave My frigerator all of a sudden started heating up. (I'm new to full-time rving) I put my front control settings to number 9 which is the maximum and I still can't get the refrigerator to go low enough I'm running around 60F terrible, all my food is going bad😨 Then I came across this video thank you very much, I knew of the back sensor in fact I moved it low during the winter time because my fins were freezing up. I completely forgot about it now I moved the sensor up higher on my fins, hopefully my refrigerator will start working now. Thanks for the video I wouldn't have thought about moving that sensor back up again since I normally don't touch it 👍
Thanks for your information, I live in sequim and I'm a full time live in,, sometimes my frig. seems to cool down and I usually shut it off for a few minutes turn back on then reset the temp. to about 7 and after an hour or so I look into the frig. and see the fins starting to frost up but only about 1/2 of them. not sure what causes that? but I did like your youtube info.,, if anything else fails I might give you a call,,, thanks again,,, Tom
We are tired of having to turn off fridge once every couple of months to defrost... because the ice build up on the fins is packed solid clear to the middle of the fridge. Any suggestions to help with this? 2003 Itasca Suncruiser.Class A. Wondering too, if it matters that the little thingy that slides up and down , if it matters that it is all rusty.... Fridge temp hovers around 34--39 degrees. We have a little digital temp thing we have hanging near top rack close to fins.
Hey Darren, Where in the plastic part does the Thermister live. Part if the plastic clips on the fin and the other part looks like the thermistor should go into that part . If so it doesn't touch the fin though
Refrigerator Temperature Settings Norcold Polar 7 Series (N7V, N7X, N7LX) Models Polar 8 Series (N8V, N8X, N8LX) Models (One button display controller) Refrigerator Temperature Settings has three (3) temperature settings. Touch and hold the ON / OFF button. The power ON indicator light will go out. Continue to hold the Power ON / OFF button. The power ON indicator light will come on after 20 seconds and go off again after 23 seconds. Continue to hold the Power ON / OFF button. The power ON indicator light will come on again after 30 seconds. Release Power ON / OFF button. The color of the power ON indicator light shows the current tem-perature setting of the refrigerator: Green shows the COLD temperature setting. Amber shows the COLDER temperature setting. Red shows the COLDEST temperature setting. Factory preset is on green temperature setting Touch and release the Power ON button and the Power ON / indicator light will flash on and off, which indicates that the temperature setting can be changed. While the Power On indicator light is flashing, touch and release the Power ON button to change to each of the three (3)temperature settings, one at a time. When the desired temperature setting is shown, touch and hold the Power On button for ten (10) seconds to exit the temperature setting mode. The Power ON / indicator light will stop flashing and return to the solid GREEN or AMBER depending on whether you are currently using propane or electric.
I bought a new RV with them same brand of refrigerator (Dometic), but mine has a freezer on top. (8 cubic feet of fridge) The manuals did not come with the new rig that tell me how to adjust the temp - so hopefully you can help me with an answer. As you stated on top is the 1-5 coldness with a button to adjust, on the inside is the up and down slider. Currently the top button is on the highest (Coldest) setting of 5 and the slider is in the middle of the fin. I have it running on electric mode. When I used to put water in ice cube trays in the freezer of my other RV, the water made ice cubes overnight 12 hours. I put water in the ice cube trays in this new RV, the ice was not frozen all the way through after 18 hours like before. Should I move the slider in the refrigerator up? Should I change the 1-5 adjustment to 3? Any ideas or advice would be appreciated.
Are there normally issues with adjusting and running an RV refrigerator in winter weather...or how does freezing weather effect how to adjust our RV refrigerator?
One common strategy is to block off about 80% of the lower ventilation access. That is to say we need the air to be drawn into that lower vent but we can restrict it with cardboard or something so that the boiler has a chance to generate enough Heat to support the ammonia vaporization in the boiler.
On my Norcold I tried this and moving the thermister up or down did not change the temperature. Moving it to the left side fins made it colder and right side warmer.
The up/down procedure works on Dometic refrigerators. On Norcold you count the fans. You are correct moving the thermistor one-way warms up and the other way cool it down.
Does it matter which Finn the slide thing goes on someone told me it should be on the 3rd then. Also, I have some wire that's supposed to go inside the fin but you don't show that on here so I'm not sure where it goes
Help!! I have a dometic fridge. It just quit working. Im disabled. Losing my food check light on. There was a sheet of ice across back freezer wall. I slid the thermeter all way up.
You say can disconnect probe off fin and dangle. I have problems after 80f to keep fridge cold. I added a fan inside fridge and in the back. I added blue blocks of ice to help. So during the hot season is it ok to leave prob at air temp, and if so what number should i use.
Here are two videos from our refrigerator playlist that may help. Your issue may be shedding the heat off of the cooling unit on the back side. ruclips.net/video/IT_5HGe4q-k/видео.html And here is another one that might help: ruclips.net/video/ZHgOVrjibZ4/видео.html
In my 2016 Norcool I replaced the thermistor today, the coils heat up and have a nice blue flame, but still doesn't cool down very much. Refrigerator works great in electric any suggestions. (The freezer is cool but test water bottle doesn't freeze up).
I looked and my Norcold N891F in my 2016 Jayco Alante 26ay does not have a slider, only a 1" long wired black thermistor(?) mounted high on one of the fins. Does any of this info apply to my unit?
I have dometic rm1350 and the drain keeps freezing up and the tray also not fins but under fin on plastic. I checked drain tube it has cap on end also no blockage. I have the thermistor that is attached up top and not sure how it supposed to be set what's cold or warmer lol also replaced doors after dealer messed them up but the seals keep getting moldy they seem like they close good but hard to tell. My fridge is on 37 with 3 on setting it was on 4 and 5 but hubby bumped it down to see if it will help. Any help be nice. I'm at a loss.
Please help. I have my thermistor set all the way down on the fins and it's still keeping the fridge at 20 below zero. Everything is frozen. The thermistor was just replaced and the problem is still there. TIA!
Thanks. Is it ok to think that when I start my refrigerator from OFF state that I should set it to 5 so it will get faster to the optimum temperature, and then when it reach it lowering to the lower value will just maintain it more precisely? Like if 5 is coarse and 1 is fine tuning
The boiler is not going to get any hotter, or cool the refrigerator any faster, based on the setting. The best analogy I can offer would be that of a toaster. Where you have settings 1 2 3 4 5 based on how you like your toast. So, it's not so much coarse or fine, it has to do more with how long the burners going to stay on, or in the toaster analogy - how long the heating element is going to stay on to either warm the bread or burn it. That 5 setting Works directly with a thermistor. The thermistor tells the board it's out of temp range. The board then looks up at the 1 2 3 4 5 board to determine how long to turn on the boiler. I hope this helps.
Will this work on a Norcold N811V that is Automatic? I have a ARP Controller on the frig an run it on electric 90% of the time with 2 small fans from ARP Controls on the top pointed at the fins running full time with Thermistor on a middle fin and frig is too cold. Should I move it left or right in addition to down on the fin?
By 'Arctic' mode are you saying you're leaving it at the highest cold setting? If that's the case, and you have to leave your refrigerator on the coldest setting for it to be effective, you may want to go around back and check the ventilation up the backside of the cooling unit. I've done several videos on the proper airflow through the back of the cooling unit. If you can't scrub the heat off the back cooling unit, and especially the condenser coil at the top, you will have cooling performance issues on the inside. That is to say, a healthy happy refrigerator should not have to be on the coldest setting to operate.
Thanks for the videos. I have a Dometic 2554 installed without a roof vent and been having a lot of problems cooling on LP. Changed all circuit boards, added 12 fans, changed LP regulator, cleaned orifices, etc. but still no luck. I am down to the thermister and was wondering if I could put in bypass (artic) mode by just unplugging from lower board. I understand I could do the ohms test but wanted to try just unplugging in for now. Can I do that to test? I assume if so, it will not damage the lower board? Thank you.
You are correct, unplugging the thermistor from the lower control board will put the refrigerator into limp mode. This procedure will not harm your refrigerator nor the control boards. In limp mode the refrigerator will continue to operate without regard to food compartment temperature. But you make another important point. You state that the issue is revealed when the refrigerator is in LP mode. Does the refrigerator work fine in AC mode? If your refrigerator is working fine on AC mode but your issue is revealed in LP mode that it will not be your thermistor. That device is common between both of them. This also rules out your Cooling unit and the ventilation through the backside since all of that is common to both the AC and the LP operation. So your issue is going to be with your LP components. Verify that you have proper LP pressure to the burner orifice. Those can develop a blockage. Verify the burner is not obstructed or filled with a fine rust. Also inside of your boiler (accessed from the top tube) there is a flu baffle that might be missing on has failed. On our website myrvworks.com/manuals/ you'll find a service manual for your refrigerator. Just filter for "Dometic/Refrigerator" and look for the manual titled: "Dometic RM2xxx Service Manual Americana & Americana Plus.pdf". Good luck and happy camping!
@@MyRVWorks I wish you were in Florida. You are correct it works in AC mode. I have not checked the LP pressure but the flame may be weak. It does kick out a lot of heat so I was hesitant to get the LP checked, but there is little left. I now have 4 x 12 volt fans I installed pulling out heat in back, I put Rockwool insulation around everwhere I could (they installed it incorrectly--I did watch you video on this issue) , I cleaned the orifice, the burner tube and the baffle, but I don't know how high to position the baffle. The manual says somewhere around 1 1/2 inches above burner. Not sure how the baffle can fail? Since my last post I did check the thermistor in ice water and you are correct. It was within specs. I guess it could be the selenoid valve, but manual says that is rare. Sounds like I need a manometer to confirm 11" WC? Thanks again. Your channel is outstanding and I appreciate you taking time to help out the uninformed.
I just looked at my baffle and it looks like it broke in two. Dometic Part 2932667021. Any idea where I could find one? Web searches are coming back with no hits. I would post a picture but I don't think I can.
We will put together a video on this topic because it's a pretty popular one. One thing to look for is that drain tube out the back side. It's good to put a P-trap in that line. Any moisture that's in the ambient air could work its way in that drain tube to inside your food department. When it hits the cold fins it becomes ice. Another thing to look for is proper ventilation up the backside cooling unit.
is it important to be on the first fin? I found that if I put it beween the 1st and 2nd fin it is tighter and could remain in place. On the first fin it tends to slip down
You bring up a very valid question. The only way I should properly answer this question is to refer to the service manual for your specific model of refrigerator. There are different locations where the thermistor should go on the fins with respect to the different model numbers. Some I've seen on the left, some I've seen on the right and some I've seen in the middle. So for you, let's find your service manual and see if we can't identify exactly where the manufacturer expects that thermistor to go. The more accurately we are to the spec the better results you should expect to get from a refrigerator. On my web site resources tab I do have a lot of service manuals. Just searched for your refrigerator manufacturer and you should be able to find it. I don't have all of the manuals but I do have quite a few. hope this helps. Happy camping.
Yes, that is a heating element run along the doors to prevent condensation from building up at that location. Some refrigerators have a switch where you can turn that on or off. On our website we have many manuals for refrigerators, you can see if you can find your operation manual and it will describe more details there: myrvworks.com/manuals/
question I have a Dometic fridge in a class A Georgetown ,Model RM3962 it stays to cold ,I have changed 2 thermisters and main control board and still no luck ,,the only ele part left is the eyebrow controller
![Natanael Cano - Amor Eterno [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EO4prCs6WpM/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you. My dealer told me my fridge was shot and needed a new one. One year old norcold. Watched your videos and now it works perfect again and it didn't cost me anything but an hours time.
They don't call em stealerships fer nuthin'! 🤪
As a retired electrician and an RV owner your analogies make Perfect sense to me ,very good video
Darren,
I asked Dometic to explain the relationship between the thermistor and the buttons on the eyebrow board. They could not! Your explanation makes perfect sense! Thank you!
Thank you for telling me about the arctic mode. The thermister was hanging off the bottom and the fridge had turned into a freezer. I had no idea how to get it warmer because it literally couldn't go any lower. You're a life saver
YES! Thank goodness. Just purchased my first caravan ever and all of a sudden my fridge has frozen almost everything! Noticed that little cable hanging and tucked it back into the slider. I saw a fellow camper had poked a hole into the slider and zip tied the cable to it so it stopped falling out :) I’m going to do that. Fingers crossed my fridge no longer freezes all of my contents! 🤞🏻
Great explanation! Who knew a dangling thermistor toggles the fridge into "artic mode". This guy... that's who. Thanks brother!!
Finally! Somebody explained the relationship between the control panel buttons and the thermistor. Thanks! I wish the Dometic owners manual explained this.
I'm new to this RV business and your video definitely help me out to understand my fridge. Thumbs up thank you
thank you! Darn manual just doesn't give you enough info. Now I "GET IT!" Thanks for explaining in a way that easy to understand.
Thank you so much!
My fridge has not been working properly for a week or two and I thought I was going to have to pay $$$$$'s to fix it
Thanks to your very clear instructions; it is in artic mode 👏👏👏
Going to put the mister - it had slid to the bottom- back on now.
It never fails, every time I watch one of your videos I learn something. Thank you for taking the time to produce these great videos.
Hi Bill,
Thanks so much for your continued involvement in our channel.
We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks
Happy Camping,
My RV Works Media Team
@@MyRVWorkswhat the highest you can put it up on the fin mine is on the right side the clip was rusted I removed it clean it and placed it a little higher than it was
This guy really knows what he is talking about. An excellent resource.
Found 2 fixes just by watching your videos . Frig temp better after sliding up on the whachamacall it . I will be putting a trap on the drain hose . PLUS everything else i found needed to be done by watching your videos . thank you so much
This was a great video Mr. Koepp, helping remove some of the gas/electric voodoo magic. I had been reading the manual, but your teaching skills really broke it down. Reminded me of some military instructors. They had your style of instruction, since they actually could use, and have used the systems they were talking about. Many of the college instructors, no real world skills. Thanks again, sir!
This channel should have EVERY person who uses an RV following it!!
Awesome info! I knew about the slide thing on the fins, but didn’t know about the logistics of the buttons on the outside and how they worked together. Thanks! 👍
I recently bought a used fifth wheel and couldn't figure out how to turn my refrigerator temperature down, it was literally a freezer until I watched your video which makes perfect sense, I saw the wire dangling near the fin but no slider for it so I duct tape it on the Finn and now it works perfectly, thank you so much the only thing is I don't have the slider for 12345 on this refrigerator?
Thank you from all the less smart people. This really helped me. I like the way he tries to put it simply but in the end you understand the complexity of it .
Thanks for the info on Arctic Mode... news to me how I could cool things down quickly. When I start my fridge I add a few half gallon milk cartons of ice to help it along. My Dometic is in a 2016 Leprechaun and does not have the buttons that tell the boiler how long to stay on, maybe they "moved on" from those buttons. I have a button to select electric, one for LP and one for Auto. Very simplified. Thanks for your videos. I choose to have technicians do the work when I need it but I like understanding the problems and the process. ✌☮
Thanks for the tip! It was a little long winded but I really didn't mind, very helpful. Editing too much is a bad thing.
You get a 5 out of 5 stars. Giving us examples to understand made all the difference. Now I know where to start with my DIY fix on the 2020 frig. thanx.
Great video, once again. It's interesting that the thermistor seems to be one of the least documented features of a refrigerator. I read about it in a manual somewhere but, in all of the blogs on the Facebook not one even suggested to check the inside of the fridge to see if its setup properly. Thanks again for the excellent insite into the world of RV's.
Well, if you liked that one you are going to love this one: ruclips.net/video/ZfCIDGfQID0/видео.html
@@MyRVWorks What do you mean by artic mode?
Well you haven't answered my question but I did find the manual for my Norcold N811 and on page 9 is say to move the Thermistor to the left for colder temps and right for warmer temps moving it only one or two fins at a time. I have tried this and it works.
Can you explain HOW the position of the thermistor on the fin makes a difference in temperature reading? In other words, why does being higher on the fin make my fridge colder than when it is in the lower position?
I would assume it’s because heat rises
The temperature in these fridges varies from coldest at the top, to warmest at the bottom. The fins are very cold near the top, because the freezer is right there.
My fin had a cord that went in it that had become disconnected.
Mine in a Coachmen Class A just has a plastic clip with nothing buried in or connected to it.
I'm pretty tech savvy, been voiding warranties since 1975, I spent 10 yrs in radio learning from some great engineers and was a digital systems specialist (fancy copier dewd) for 16 yrs... but for the LIFE OF ME, i can't see how this simple piece of plastic could possibly have *any* influence whatsoever in affecting my fridge temp. No wires on that fin either, traces, etc... its justa fin with a plastic clip on it. 🤔😳🤪
For the OP: but winded for about :53 worth of info... but thanks for the upload mahn! 🖖
Amazing info! I put in a used dometic and that sensor was just loose inside. Now it is all setup!
Finally someone makes sense!! Thanks so much!
Great video learned a lot. I always wondered how that worked.
Thanks for easy to understand dynamics of Refrigertor parts to operation!
Hope my analogies didn't mess folks up too much! As a former engineer I have a tendency to over-explain things LOL!
Cheers,
Darren Koepp
Makes it understandable and entertaining at the same time! Lol
We edited out more of my silly comments but just trying to help folks grasp how the 'brain' in these things keeps things cool.
So right now it's August 2020 I'm in Southern California experiencing a heat wave My frigerator all of a sudden started heating up.
(I'm new to full-time rving)
I put my front control settings to number 9 which is the maximum and I still can't get the refrigerator to go low enough I'm running around 60F terrible, all my food is going bad😨
Then I came across this video thank you very much, I knew of the back sensor in fact I moved it low during the winter time because my fins were freezing up.
I completely forgot about it now I moved the sensor up higher on my fins, hopefully my refrigerator will start working now.
Thanks for the video I wouldn't have thought about moving that sensor back up again since I normally don't touch it 👍
Thanks for this great information. I have subscribed, I like how informative your videos are.
Well done Sir
Is this a gas only thing? I'm parked with electricity. Does this video apply?
Perfect!!! I was just able to adjust my frig!!! Great video's Thank you
Thanks for your information, I live in sequim and I'm a full time live in,, sometimes my frig. seems to cool down and I usually shut it off for a few minutes turn back on then reset the temp. to about 7 and after an hour or so I look into the frig. and see the fins starting to frost up but only about 1/2 of them. not sure what causes that? but I did like your youtube info.,, if anything else fails I might give you a call,,, thanks again,,, Tom
I'm assuming if it says automatic instead of settings 1 2 3 4 all I have to do is move the fin. Thank you for clearing up both adjustments.
What is artic mode? My fridge has no slider just a wire screwed to a fin. And it only gets to 40
Excellent information
Thank you So much loved the video freezer is good just the fridge does not cool below 50
Man I really enjoyed your video keep it brother.
Thanks for the help! RV newbie here.... When might you use the gas setting only? Just when there wouldn't be plugged into electric or being towed?
Correct!
My fridge stopped cooling and I noticed the wires was off of the white sliding thing. Is there a certain way to put it back on ?
It all makes perfect sense, but what if you don’t have the panel on the outside to adjust?
This was great! Thank you Darren
I can tell you are a “bit” passionare about your trade.Excellent video,TKS
I appreciate that!
Love it, thanks
Super advice! Thanks a million!
We are tired of having to turn off fridge once every couple of months to defrost... because the ice build up on the fins is packed solid clear to the middle of the fridge. Any suggestions to help with this? 2003 Itasca Suncruiser.Class A. Wondering too, if it matters that the little thingy that slides up and down , if it matters that it is all rusty.... Fridge temp hovers around 34--39 degrees. We have a little digital temp thing we have hanging near top rack close to fins.
Thank you that was very helpful
Nice video
Brilliant 🤯 Thank You 🧊
Thanks god bless
Would have been nice to see the things inside the fridge you were talking about.
Excellent, as usual! 😀
thank you very much sir
Great info
Another great video
Good job!
Hey Darren, Where in the plastic part does the Thermister live. Part if the plastic clips on the fin and the other part looks like the thermistor should go into that part . If so it doesn't touch the fin though
Refrigerator Temperature Settings Norcold
Polar 7 Series (N7V, N7X, N7LX) Models
Polar 8 Series (N8V, N8X, N8LX) Models
(One button display controller)
Refrigerator Temperature Settings has three (3) temperature settings. Touch and hold the ON / OFF button. The power ON indicator light will go out. Continue to hold the Power ON / OFF button. The power ON indicator light will come on after 20 seconds and go off again after 23 seconds. Continue to hold the Power ON / OFF button. The power ON indicator light will come on again after 30 seconds. Release Power ON / OFF button.
The color of the power ON indicator light shows the current tem-perature setting of the refrigerator:
Green shows the COLD temperature setting.
Amber shows the COLDER temperature setting.
Red shows the COLDEST temperature setting.
Factory preset is on green temperature setting
Touch and release the Power ON button and the Power ON / indicator light will flash on and off, which indicates that the temperature setting can be changed.
While the Power On indicator light is flashing, touch and release the Power ON button to change to each of the three (3)temperature settings, one at a time. When the desired temperature setting is shown, touch and hold the Power On button for ten (10) seconds to exit the temperature setting mode. The Power ON / indicator light will stop flashing and return to the solid GREEN or AMBER depending on whether you are currently using propane or electric.
Thanks!
Thank you , Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I bought a new RV with them same brand of refrigerator (Dometic), but mine has a freezer on top. (8 cubic feet of fridge)
The manuals did not come with the new rig that tell me how to adjust the temp - so hopefully you can help me with an answer.
As you stated on top is the 1-5 coldness with a button to adjust, on the inside is the up and down slider. Currently the top button is on the highest (Coldest) setting of 5 and the slider is in the middle of the fin. I have it running on electric mode.
When I used to put water in ice cube trays in the freezer of my other RV, the water made ice cubes overnight 12 hours.
I put water in the ice cube trays in this new RV, the ice was not frozen all the way through after 18 hours like before.
Should I move the slider in the refrigerator up? Should I change the 1-5 adjustment to 3?
Any ideas or advice would be appreciated.
Hi. Is there a video troubleshooting for upper board refrigerator norcold N611. Thanks
Should that thermister be held against the fin by that white slider?? Ours is loose and the fridge does not shut off on shore power.
Are there normally issues with adjusting and running an RV refrigerator in winter weather...or how does freezing weather effect how to adjust our RV refrigerator?
One common strategy is to block off about 80% of the lower ventilation access. That is to say we need the air to be drawn into that lower vent but we can restrict it with cardboard or something so that the boiler has a chance to generate enough Heat to support the ammonia vaporization in the boiler.
On my Norcold I tried this and moving the thermister up or down did not change the temperature. Moving it to the left side fins made it colder and right side warmer.
The up/down procedure works on Dometic refrigerators. On Norcold you count the fans. You are correct moving the thermistor one-way warms up and the other way cool it down.
Yay, you rock. Thank you!
Does it matter which Finn the slide thing goes on someone told me it should be on the 3rd then. Also, I have some wire that's supposed to go inside the fin but you don't show that on here so I'm not sure where it goes
Yes it helped thx
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 I've been watching all of your videos.
My freezer works great but fins don't get cold stay same warm or room temp warm
I have a RM2351.
It uses a tank of propane in less than 24 hours.
Pressure tested fine and swabbed for leaks.
What would cause this??
Help!! I have a dometic fridge. It just quit working. Im disabled. Losing my food check light on. There was a sheet of ice across back freezer wall. I slid the thermeter all way up.
You say can disconnect probe off fin and dangle. I have problems after 80f to keep fridge cold. I added a fan inside fridge and in the back. I added blue blocks of ice to help. So during the hot season is it ok to leave prob at air temp, and if so what number should i use.
Here are two videos from our refrigerator playlist that may help. Your issue may be shedding the heat off of the cooling unit on the back side.
ruclips.net/video/IT_5HGe4q-k/видео.html
And here is another one that might help:
ruclips.net/video/ZHgOVrjibZ4/видео.html
In my 2016 Norcool I replaced the thermistor today, the coils heat up and have a nice blue flame, but still doesn't cool down very much. Refrigerator works great in electric any suggestions. (The freezer is cool but test water bottle doesn't freeze up).
I looked and my Norcold N891F in my 2016 Jayco Alante 26ay does not have a slider, only a 1" long wired black thermistor(?) mounted high on one of the fins. Does any of this info apply to my unit?
My fridge doesn't have the lever 😫 I don't know if someone took it out or what. But everything freezes and we can't turn it down
Nice god bless
I have dometic rm1350 and the drain keeps freezing up and the tray also not fins but under fin on plastic. I checked drain tube it has cap on end also no blockage. I have the thermistor that is attached up top and not sure how it supposed to be set what's cold or warmer lol also replaced doors after dealer messed them up but the seals keep getting moldy they seem like they close good but hard to tell. My fridge is on 37 with 3 on setting it was on 4 and 5 but hubby bumped it down to see if it will help. Any help be nice. I'm at a loss.
I can't find anywhere the placement of thermistor on Norcold N10 model.
Please help. I have my thermistor set all the way down on the fins and it's still keeping the fridge at 20 below zero. Everything is frozen. The thermistor was just replaced and the problem is still there. TIA!
Thanks. Is it ok to think that when I start my refrigerator from OFF state that I should set it to 5 so it will get faster to the optimum temperature, and then when it reach it lowering to the lower value will just maintain it more precisely?
Like if 5 is coarse and 1 is fine tuning
The boiler is not going to get any hotter, or cool the refrigerator any faster, based on the setting. The best analogy I can offer would be that of a toaster. Where you have settings 1 2 3 4 5 based on how you like your toast. So, it's not so much coarse or fine, it has to do more with how long the burners going to stay on, or in the toaster analogy - how long the heating element is going to stay on to either warm the bread or burn it. That 5 setting Works directly with a thermistor. The thermistor tells the board it's out of temp range. The board then looks up at the 1 2 3 4 5 board to determine how long to turn on the boiler. I hope this helps.
My refrigerator does not have the 1-5 buttons on top. Only the slider. It is freezing everything.
Will this work on a Norcold N811V that is Automatic? I have a ARP Controller on the frig an run it on electric 90% of the time with 2 small fans from ARP Controls on the top pointed at the fins running full time with Thermistor on a middle fin and frig is too cold. Should I move it left or right in addition to down on the fin?
Is leaving the fridge in ARTIC mode a good thing or bad thing?
By 'Arctic' mode are you saying you're leaving it at the highest cold setting? If that's the case, and you have to leave your refrigerator on the coldest setting for it to be effective, you may want to go around back and check the ventilation up the backside of the cooling unit. I've done several videos on the proper airflow through the back of the cooling unit. If you can't scrub the heat off the back cooling unit, and especially the condenser coil at the top, you will have cooling performance issues on the inside. That is to say, a healthy happy refrigerator should not have to be on the coldest setting to operate.
My freezer is iceing over when refrigerated ok what do I do to stop that
Thanks for the videos. I have a Dometic 2554 installed without a roof vent and been having a lot of problems cooling on LP. Changed all circuit boards, added 12 fans, changed LP regulator, cleaned orifices, etc. but still no luck. I am down to the thermister and was wondering if I could put in bypass (artic) mode by just unplugging from lower board. I understand I could do the ohms test but wanted to try just unplugging in for now. Can I do that to test? I assume if so, it will not damage the lower board? Thank you.
You are correct, unplugging the thermistor from the lower control board will put the refrigerator into limp mode. This procedure will not harm your refrigerator nor the control boards. In limp mode the refrigerator will continue to operate without regard to food compartment temperature. But you make another important point. You state that the issue is revealed when the refrigerator is in LP mode. Does the refrigerator work fine in AC mode? If your refrigerator is working fine on AC mode but your issue is revealed in LP mode that it will not be your thermistor. That device is common between both of them. This also rules out your Cooling unit and the ventilation through the backside since all of that is common to both the AC and the LP operation. So your issue is going to be with your LP components. Verify that you have proper LP pressure to the burner orifice. Those can develop a blockage. Verify the burner is not obstructed or filled with a fine rust. Also inside of your boiler (accessed from the top tube) there is a flu baffle that might be missing on has failed. On our website myrvworks.com/manuals/ you'll find a service manual for your refrigerator. Just filter for "Dometic/Refrigerator" and look for the manual titled: "Dometic RM2xxx Service Manual Americana & Americana Plus.pdf". Good luck and happy camping!
@@MyRVWorks I wish you were in Florida. You are correct it works in AC mode. I have not checked the LP pressure but the flame may be weak. It does kick out a lot of heat so I was hesitant to get the LP checked, but there is little left. I now have 4 x 12 volt fans I installed pulling out heat in back, I put Rockwool insulation around everwhere I could (they installed it incorrectly--I did watch you video on this issue) , I cleaned the orifice, the burner tube and the baffle, but I don't know how high to position the baffle. The manual says somewhere around 1 1/2 inches above burner. Not sure how the baffle can fail? Since my last post I did check the thermistor in ice water and you are correct. It was within specs. I guess it could be the selenoid valve, but manual says that is rare. Sounds like I need a manometer to confirm 11" WC? Thanks again. Your channel is outstanding and I appreciate you taking time to help out the uninformed.
I just looked at my baffle and it looks like it broke in two. Dometic Part 2932667021. Any idea where I could find one? Web searches are coming back with no hits. I would post a picture but I don't think I can.
What do I do if my fridge keeps freezing up? I have it on the warmest level
We will put together a video on this topic because it's a pretty popular one. One thing to look for is that drain tube out the back side. It's good to put a P-trap in that line. Any moisture that's in the ambient air could work its way in that drain tube to inside your food department. When it hits the cold fins it becomes ice. Another thing to look for is proper ventilation up the backside cooling unit.
is it important to be on the first fin? I found that if I put it beween the 1st and 2nd fin it is tighter and could remain in place. On the first fin it tends to slip down
You bring up a very valid question. The only way I should properly answer this question is to refer to the service manual for your specific model of refrigerator. There are different locations where the thermistor should go on the fins with respect to the different model numbers. Some I've seen on the left, some I've seen on the right and some I've seen in the middle. So for you, let's find your service manual and see if we can't identify exactly where the manufacturer expects that thermistor to go. The more accurately we are to the spec the better results you should expect to get from a refrigerator. On my web site resources tab I do have a lot of service manuals. Just searched for your refrigerator manufacturer and you should be able to find it. I don't have all of the manuals but I do have quite a few. hope this helps. Happy camping.
My thermetic doesn't have a 1234 board
Does anyone know why the dometic fridge would be hot inbetween doors
Yes, that is a heating element run along the doors to prevent condensation from building up at that location. Some refrigerators have a switch where you can turn that on or off. On our website we have many manuals for refrigerators, you can see if you can find your operation manual and it will describe more details there: myrvworks.com/manuals/
Just tell me is 1 colder the 4
I just looked and my Thermister is missing!
question I have a Dometic fridge in a class A Georgetown ,Model RM3962 it stays to cold ,I have changed 2 thermisters and main control board and still no luck ,,the only ele part left is the eyebrow controller
Thank you!!! Now I know!
Hello, do you happen to know why mine might be freezing over?
🏅
Lol I though that was a piece of junk in the RV good thing I didnt through it away
40 ohms is not 40 degrees. This video is a little miss leading.
Talk in english
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You are a fruit.