This phase of the build is the first pass. I'll be settling in and milking this layout with multiple passes for years to come. Technically, I haven't really gone into details, vehicles, rolling stock, locomotives, etc, etc. 😁
The bridge looks fantastic Boomer! I never thought so much detail could be put into a shelf layout. In my humble opinion, the large layouts can't even come close to the realism you have created with River Road! And, Dusty is fast becoming a must see on every episode. Even though she did do a little fishing in your aquarium awhile back we all make mistakes. She's just special! CHEERS
I am sad to see that you’re stopping your posts . It has been wonderful to watch your videos as I have learnt so much. To be able to have had such a professional modeller demonstrating outstanding techniques, with well put together commentary . I know those that watch your videos and myself will truly miss you. As fellow modellers we wish you well and thank you.
Thank you for the new concrete technique. I should of asked my father inlaw as this is what he does in antique furniture restoration.. Well done!. Thank you
It would have never occurred to me use wood as you have here. And then, the concrete painting technique: all the greys, the wet sanding, adding seams and contour by painting between tape on the pillars, using Varathane to seal the wood, and conceal the wood grain beforehand - just mind blowing stuff. You are a gem in the community, and I for one thank you for sharing with us.
It's amazing what one can achieve through paint and texture for sure. All stuff I learned in film and theater. All I did was miniaturize the concept. ;-) Cheers.
Why did you use wood and not styrene? I’m going to be adding and overpass to my layout soon and my preferred medium is styrene so I’m wondering if it’s not suitable to this sort of application but I can’t think why that would be the case having never built this type of structure before.
Wow! What an incredible video. I’ve never seen such an approach to an otherwise forgettable detail on a model. It really illustrates a professional approach. Good job. I’m learning by the bucket loads.
As for starting a "shelf" - "module" type layout. One could use an old kitchen counter from, a stone counter rehab replacement. Kitchen counters are usually about 25"deep. With the 3/4" thick, backsplash to support the backdrop. Build a undercarriage with legs and rollers. Then you can roll it out of the way if needed, to clean or hide it in a closet, when your better half deems it nesesary. If you get the part of the counter where the sink was, Bonus! Bridges building time! Cheers!
Excellent concrete tutorial, often we see gray on layouts, but concrete is one of the most complex things to model in my opinion, so many colors and shades of grays and tans, much more complex than we initially think
Very interesting construction Boomer. Absolutely will borrow the idea to leave the end parts unglued. Didn’t think of it, but absolutely makes sense. Even for modeling in paper. Next, those pillars, they look magnificent. Plus the abutments, whether painted or un-painted. Such a great model, with so little material. Definitely agree on the camber. Road bridge kits are just too flat. Even the slight visual camber on the fascia edge changes the entire perspective of the bridge. It truly transcends all the way along the road surface. Also, like the slight angle of ‘attack’ on the backdrop side of the bridge. Which of course provides an opportunity to further the road’s perspective on the 2D surface, into the distance. Last but not least, very much like the tie in with the forest and hill vignette. Truly makes the height of the bridge work and ties in the different scenes in a very believable way.
Yes. I have to fair out the forest section into a structure to make things work for the plan I have in there as well. This is why I never fixed the overpass in case I need to shift right or left to accommodate the space.
Nice to see you add the cross slope to the bridge. It's on of the department details 98% of modelers miss and it shows. Minor detail, but having overseen the construction of several bridges, all of the form work we ever used were steel, so the horizontal lines on the columns are more accurate. I don't think a sona tube would be strong enough to withstand the tremendous forces of the concrete as it's poured.
Not sure what you mean? They use Sonotube liners for bridge construction in Canada (with steel) up to 60" in diameter for columns up to 20 feet high. Most notably "rural" subjects which this one is.😁
@@donhanley1213 Commercial Sonotube Construction (without additional) forms can handle full fluid pressure @ 60" diameter by 20 feet high. This model depicts 18' foot high columns @ 56" Diameter.😁
Very nice Boomer! I have been using the basswood sheets for my modules now! No more of the messy wallboard mud! So much cleaner and lighter. Learned a lot from your techniques! Thanks! 👍🍻
Good work I'm doing almost the same build. Gotta show those cars and trucks👍👍I like running long trains but you put the nail on the head by illusions. A highway overpass can help simulate long trains one half at a terminal the other just parked. Good concept that would work great.
Nice looking. To get wood to look like concrete can be challenging. I’m trying some different stuff for asphalt but I’m using rock tumbling aggregates that have turned out pretty nice. Even has the sparkles like asphalt. Still work in progress. I’ll be interested to see your method. I just love Dusty.. she’s got a beautiful coat.
I know this is not railroad related, but your knowledge in gluing different materials together could help. My pepper grinder made of wood has a plastic cap in the top cylinder that keeps falling off, and was wondering what type of glue would be best for a good bond. It looks like dellron plastic.
Delrin (Delron) plastic is a nightmare to glue. I would try medium or thin CA. Make sure you rough up (sand) the Delrin plastic first really well with coarse sandpaper then glue it with CA.
Yep, there´s more then one concrete grey, the after war rebuild part of Le Havre (France) is amongst the best examples where to find diverse concrete colours btw.
They do it all the time with this size of columns. Depending on the situation they use them as liners with reinforcement, etc., as well. It's the economic way of doing forms of this smaller size. Besides, the form lines are evident anyway regardless.😁
@@Christiane069 You raise a valid point because they do use forms for much larger columns for sure. But in this case tubes are fairly standard up to five feet or (60") in diameter. After this they have to be custom made with additional forms etc. Here is a link for sizes: www.sonotube.com/resources/concreterequirementssizechart.aspx
Great question! Wet sanding uses water like a lubricant - similar to oil suspension. It suspends the gritty surface in a way that it "feathers" away thin layers of paint without being overly aggressive on the underlying layers - thus revealing multiple thin layers and shades in a way that is normally hard to achieve with acrylics. It also leaves a unique finish as well. Why? Because Acrylic paint is not inherently transparent - like oil paint, although acrylic has rich (fast-drying) pigment which really pops when this method is applied. Furthermore, wet-sanding leaves a beautiful polished finish as well for subsequent washes without having to clear coat between layers. You will see this in part 2.😁
I am not sure if I'm going to be happy or sad to see River Road finished.
Either way, I am learning much.
This phase of the build is the first pass. I'll be settling in and milking this layout with multiple passes for years to come. Technically, I haven't really gone into details, vehicles, rolling stock, locomotives, etc, etc. 😁
The Bob Ross of model building ✊✊🚂🔥🔥🔥🔥
😁
In addition to being a cute side-show, adding the cat establishes scale quite nicely.
O.K. 😁Thank You!
You are making all of your viewers better modelers. Thanks!
Wow! That was the plan. Cheers.
The bridge looks fantastic Boomer! I never thought so much detail could be put into a shelf layout.
In my humble opinion, the large layouts can't even come close to the realism you have created with River Road!
And, Dusty is fast becoming a must see on every episode. Even though she did do a little fishing in your aquarium awhile back we all make mistakes. She's just special!
CHEERS
Lol . . . The aquarium is her water dish . . . no fish. ;-)
Love it!🦾
Thank you!
This cat integration is awesome!
;-)
I am sad to see that you’re stopping your posts . It has been wonderful to watch your videos as I have learnt so much.
To be able to have had such a professional modeller demonstrating outstanding techniques, with well put together commentary .
I know those that watch your videos and myself will truly miss you.
As fellow modellers we wish you well and thank you.
I won't be stopping. Just pulling back from regular uploads.😁
Why do I suddenly want to add an overpass to my industrial layout??? Another awesome tutorial!!!! Thanks!!!!
Roadway overpasses make for nice featured view blocks or scene separators. Makes the smaller layout feel much larger as well! Cheers ~ Boomer.😁
Thank you for the new concrete technique. I should of asked my father inlaw as this is what he does in antique furniture restoration.. Well done!.
Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
It would have never occurred to me use wood as you have here. And then, the concrete painting technique: all the greys, the wet sanding, adding seams and contour by painting between tape on the pillars, using Varathane to seal the wood, and conceal the wood grain beforehand - just mind blowing stuff. You are a gem in the community, and I for one thank you for sharing with us.
It's amazing what one can achieve through paint and texture for sure. All stuff I learned in film and theater. All I did was miniaturize the concept. ;-) Cheers.
Why did you use wood and not styrene? I’m going to be adding and overpass to my layout soon and my preferred medium is styrene so I’m wondering if it’s not suitable to this sort of application but I can’t think why that would be the case having never built this type of structure before.
Wow! What an incredible video. I’ve never seen such an approach to an otherwise forgettable detail on a model. It really illustrates a professional approach. Good job. I’m learning by the bucket loads.
Thank you. Part 2 Final should be fun . . . 😉
Master modeler RESPECT ✊ 🚂🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thank you dear sir! You are awesome!😁
Wonderful building. Thank you.
Thank you.😁
The camber is subtle but really adds to the realistic look.
It's the minor details that make the difference for me. ;-)
Thanks, got some grate tips.
Glad to hear it!
Very fine craftsmanship. So cool to be able to watch this process, and hear your commentary. Take care - Bill.
Thank You! I appreciate the feedback. Cheers ~ Boomer.😁
Mad Skills. Looks Incredible !!!
It's a nice view block, or scene divider.
Bravo
😁
Awesome Boomer. I haven’t seen this type of over pass build covered by anyone before. Thank you
More to come!
Incredible work!
Thank you. Just having fun! Cheers.
As for starting a "shelf" - "module" type layout.
One could use an old kitchen counter from, a stone counter rehab replacement.
Kitchen counters are usually about 25"deep.
With the 3/4" thick, backsplash to support the backdrop.
Build a undercarriage with legs and rollers.
Then you can roll it out of the way if needed, to clean or hide it in a closet, when your better half deems it nesesary.
If you get the part of the counter where the sink was, Bonus! Bridges building time!
Cheers!
Cool idea!
Excellent concrete tutorial, often we see gray on layouts, but concrete is one of the most complex things to model in my opinion, so many colors and shades of grays and tans, much more complex than we initially think
Totally agree!
Very interesting construction Boomer. Absolutely will borrow the idea to leave the end parts unglued. Didn’t think of it, but absolutely makes sense. Even for modeling in paper.
Next, those pillars, they look magnificent. Plus the abutments, whether painted or un-painted. Such a great model, with so little material.
Definitely agree on the camber. Road bridge kits are just too flat. Even the slight visual camber on the fascia edge changes the entire perspective of the bridge. It truly transcends all the way along the road surface.
Also, like the slight angle of ‘attack’ on the backdrop side of the bridge. Which of course provides an opportunity to further the road’s perspective on the 2D surface, into the distance.
Last but not least, very much like the tie in with the forest and hill vignette. Truly makes the height of the bridge work and ties in the different scenes in a very believable way.
Yes. I have to fair out the forest section into a structure to make things work for the plan I have in there as well. This is why I never fixed the overpass in case I need to shift right or left to accommodate the space.
graffiti under the bridge/overpass! always necessary. really appreciate your eye for detail.
I will probably add few fresh spots. ;-)
Another thorough, excellent tutorial on scale model making of a structure rarely covered. Thanks, Boomer! Cheers from Wisconsin.
Thank you kindly!
Nice to see you add the cross slope to the bridge. It's on of the department details 98% of modelers miss and it shows. Minor detail, but having overseen the construction of several bridges, all of the form work we ever used were steel, so the horizontal lines on the columns are more accurate. I don't think a sona tube would be strong enough to withstand the tremendous forces of the concrete as it's poured.
Not sure what you mean? They use Sonotube liners for bridge construction in Canada (with steel) up to 60" in diameter for columns up to 20 feet high. Most notably "rural" subjects which this one is.😁
@@boomerdiorama Just going off my experience here in the States, but if they use Sona tubes that big the I stand corrected.
@@donhanley1213 Commercial Sonotube Construction (without additional) forms can handle full fluid pressure @ 60" diameter by 20 feet high. This model depicts 18' foot high columns @ 56" Diameter.😁
I've been watching for a few years and for some reason I never thought the highway came across the tracks. Guess I wasn't watching well enough. HA!
This model depicts the "Rural" 204th Overpass in Langley which crosses the CP Mainline/SRY Rail Link, and IPEX Plastics Industry.😁
Very nice Boomer! I have been using the basswood sheets for my modules now! No more of the messy wallboard mud! So much cleaner and lighter. Learned a lot from your techniques! Thanks! 👍🍻
Sounds great!
@@boomerdiorama Much improvement! 👍
Good work I'm doing almost the same build. Gotta show those cars and trucks👍👍I like running long trains but you put the nail on the head by illusions. A highway overpass can help simulate long trains one half at a terminal the other just parked. Good concept that would work great.
Yes indeed! Thanks 👍
Can't wait for this tutorial but it's here lol
Cheers.
Amazing work once again!
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice looking. To get wood to look like concrete can be challenging. I’m trying some different stuff for asphalt but I’m using rock tumbling aggregates that have turned out pretty nice. Even has the sparkles like asphalt. Still work in progress. I’ll be interested to see your method. I just love Dusty.. she’s got a beautiful coat.
Yup. Dusty is cool.
Very informative video. Thank you very much. Is there a video showing the construction of the overpass?
I showed it.
I know this is not railroad related, but your knowledge in gluing different materials together could help. My pepper grinder made of wood has a plastic cap in the top cylinder that keeps falling off, and was wondering what type of glue would be best for a good bond. It looks like dellron plastic.
Delrin (Delron) plastic is a nightmare to glue. I would try medium or thin CA. Make sure you rough up (sand) the Delrin plastic first really well with coarse sandpaper then glue it with CA.
@@boomerdiorama thanks. Cheers!
Another MasterClass Boomer. Thank you
Thanks again Mark! Cheers ~ Boomer.
Now that is cool, Boomer I'd have that as a model in it's own right. Excellent tutorial and advice. Thank you Sir. Cheer's JV
You are welcome. Thank you!
I would like to see a rough track plan of River Road.
There have been revisions. I plan to redraw the track plan when the remaining track is layed this fall.😁
Yep, there´s more then one concrete grey,
the after war rebuild part of Le Havre (France) is amongst the best examples where to find diverse concrete colours btw.
😁
I have already placed a call with PETA for abusing your cat by taking away Dusty's perch. JK. Another great video.
Dusty should be able to squeeze in between the Overpass and IPEX. ;-)
Apologies if I have missed this. How are you planning to finish the back?
I will finish the bridge in the "Overpass Final" video. I don't do backdrops until the layout is primarily finished.😁
💯💯💯💯💯
😁😁😁😁😁
Cheers!
As ever an excellent tutorial. But what did you do to your thumb?? Looks sore.
Swinging a heavy hammer on a weekend project. It's been awhile. ;-)
I am not sure that they use "SONO" tubes for very large piles. I think they use forms (re-usable.)
They do it all the time with this size of columns. Depending on the situation they use them as liners with reinforcement, etc., as well. It's the economic way of doing forms of this smaller size. Besides, the form lines are evident anyway regardless.😁
@@boomerdiorama OK, I stand corrected.
@@Christiane069 You raise a valid point because they do use forms for much larger columns for sure. But in this case tubes are fairly standard up to five feet or (60") in diameter. After this they have to be custom made with additional forms etc. Here is a link for sizes: www.sonotube.com/resources/concreterequirementssizechart.aspx
💪🏾👍🏾💪🏾
Cheers Spencer!😁
In the intro, I note that Dusty keeps a bottle of Vallejo airbrush thinner. Is your cat trying to convince you to spray these paints? :)
I have the Vallejo thinner around for a pinch. ;-)
What's the advantage of having the sandpaper wet? I've never wet sanded before but now I'm curious!
Great question! Wet sanding uses water like a lubricant - similar to oil suspension. It suspends the gritty surface in a way that it "feathers" away thin layers of paint without being overly aggressive on the underlying layers - thus revealing multiple thin layers and shades in a way that is normally hard to achieve with acrylics. It also leaves a unique finish as well. Why? Because Acrylic paint is not inherently transparent - like oil paint, although acrylic has rich (fast-drying) pigment which really pops when this method is applied. Furthermore, wet-sanding leaves a beautiful polished finish as well for subsequent washes without having to clear coat between layers. You will see this in part 2.😁
Which Varathane do you use or recommend?
I use (Water-Borne) Flecto Varathane Satin. It's water based (Acrylic). Not enamel or lacquer.
Hey Boomer - could you let me know the approximate height of the wooden dowels you used to model the columns, please? Many thanks!
3.5 inches @ 25.5 Feet HO 1/87 Scale.
@@boomerdiorama Thank you! Greatly appreciated.
balsa wood is really a reed
Hey James! Nice to hear from you. I thought maybe you moved to Antarctica . . . lol. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama If Antarctica is the south shore of Nova Scotia then I vacation there. Has Dusty find a new spot to keep a eye on you yet?
@@jamesbraxton6132 Yes. Dusty certainly has found a new spot on the layout. I show it in the pending "Overpass Final" episode.😁
You have way to much TIME ON YOUR HANDS.
Lol . . . lol. It keeps me out of trouble. 😁