That's great work. Someone commented in your previous video about how they had learnt more from your videos in a few months than decades of reading articles. I couldn't agree more. It's great to see how many people you have reached and inspired. You are a very good teacher. Your video production is top notch too.
It feels like all the late night modeling, etc. are finally paying dividends after all these decades. It's a great feeling indeed. I am almost scared to finish it because I don't know what I will do next. The process is a fantastic experience though. ;-)
So after a year of thinking about this I came back a few times last week to watch it in preparation to paint a wooden barn I’d made. Siding was individual styrene boards with gaps between them and I was so exited to try this method. Man, it’s was so much fun and the final result is stunning. I’m going to do more wooden structures now because I’m hooked. Thank you for the inspiration.
I saw the barn. It looks fantastic. Once you learn to scribe and paint plastic with acrylics there is no going back to wood. Believe me, I built and painted many wooden kits in the past and plastic is the way to go if you are up for the learning curve. Cheers.😁
I love this demonstration of using the airbrush to fade and ghost the bleached finish onto the (plastic) wooden deck. It’s giving me the courage to experiment and who cares if you make mistakes along the way ! Cheers Boomer
It's amazing how the airbrush renders an otherwise "opaque" paint transparent in this case. It's the reverse of the oil pin wash method with more color vibrancy.
Been using and Aztek 3000 for a very long time. It's an extension of my hands. I have taught at least 20 professional artist's the same. No 2 artist's are a like. Great tool, and even greater in the hands of an artist like you or I. I can never shut up about using a airbrush. "See!" Great skill sir. You can pull women's silk stalking's over a wood piece as a filter, using a emerald light green paint, to show algae/moss buildup on wood. Great JOB. Makes me happy to see a Master Craftsman use an Airbrush like me.
I appreciate you sharing your experiences with the airbrush. I could not imagine being in the hobby without one. Glad to hear it has become a part of you. Thank you for sharing the stocking trick! Cheers ~ Boomer.
I'meaning how nice is this layout in person, câmeras can't show eyes interpretation of colours and light, this is beautiful in the screem imagine it alive!
Fantastic work in creating the effect wi an airbrush, Navy non-skid was a combination of fresh new sandblasting grit and paint, two basic colors black and machinery grey. Super hard on your hands and knees when crossing the equater going from a polywig to a shellback.
I am working toward highlighting individual boards on the side of box cars and your video is evidence that this can be done with the airbrush! Thanks for your detailed tutorial.
Such a masterpiece from a true master of his craft. Congratulations, and continued thanks for inspiring me to just dig in and not be afraid! Model on Boomer!!
So true: we over do it. I've noticed that when I focus on a single effect (say a whitish salt deposit on a rock wall) that is all I see. The following day I'm thinking the overall impression is rather over the top operatic. So now when it seems I've done nothing -I walk away as I have probably done too much. This seems especially true with light earth tones. And yes guys, use that IPA, desaturate and tone down that paint and build up in layers! Again some wonderful advice from you. It's encouraging how you look at your surroundings and actually see and then translate that into a model. Thank you dear Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama I probably don't understand what you mean as I find the work very real knowing full well it is creating an illusion, telling a story... In that respect it is quite similar to my acting experience.
Looking real good! I will definitely agree with you on the airbrush, at first I was a little clumsy with it, but after using it for a while now I found I cannot live without one ever again!
The Weathered Deck. Hints of Rust. Sound like romance novels. I guess at your level it is like writing a novel. Layers are like chapters that lead to the finale.
Really great video. I have watched it several times and glean more with each viewing. How do you do your rivet detail. I want to scratch a truss bridge, which will have many rivets. Archer makes decals and some modelers make their own rivets. Any suggestions? Thanks, Kennedy
Dear Boomer, Very awesome how you’ve shown these techniques. Absolutely am going to get out the airbrush and tie up my aptitude. By the way, have been going along the Fraser river on Google earth, several times now. Took me a while to find the barge slip. Found it though, my patience was rewarded. Must say there that your representation of the railcar ferry ‘bridge’ has become a very realistic representation of its bigger version. Curious though why this ferry service is still in operation, when I see the amount of railroad bridges crossing the Fraser, in the north south direction. Predominately a bit further east, those land bridges. A question therefore; does the railcar ferry service the islands west of Vancouver? Curious also to find a good read on the history of this particular service and others. Thanks 🙏 for sharing!!
Here is a great one for the money. Should last twenty years: usaairbrushsupply.com/products/omni-5000-gravity-feed-airbrush My compressor: aircompressorsusa.com/makita-mac-700-review/
I just eye ball everything as listed in the videos as "percentage" according to the bottle. I go by feel. Sorry to disappoint you, it just comes with age when you have been doing it as long as I have. ;-)
Excellent!!! This is a master class on how to paint/weather styrene to look like wood... Well done sir! One thing though... I feel like I need to buy/donate a handle to your airbrush, perhaps a new needle (one that's not bent) as well!! LOL... That poor thing needs some TLC... Spare parts are available for it based on the info you put up at the beginning of this video. Did you lose the handle, or just choose not to put it back on? Anyway... Well done. I've always been a big proponent of using real wood for "wood" parts, but you've clearly shown that styrene is just fine with a little bit more effort.
I know now is not the time to let you know that the 3-way stub turnout is not very correct. I just went back to "The Barge Slip Build | The Ramp Head & Deck Part 8" to see how it was constructed. I have not been subscribed but for a few months. A stub turnout and split switch turnout are identical for construction except for the switch points. Regular frogs are used, bolted or cast but considering other traffic may be on the barge and slip, self-guarding would probably not be used. Stub points are actually part of a long or full-length rail and are spiked to the ties except for the point area where slide plates are used under the rails to support them. The points form almost a true curve when they are thrown by an amount equal to that of a split switch throw and are connected with 2 more connector bars between the point rails to hold the gauge but they "float". For practical purposes, the curve of the turnout starts where the points are last spiked and continue to the toe of the frog and this curve is in the points and stock and closure rails as one unit but for the cut to provide the joint. This is where the term "bending the iron" comes from. The lead of a stub turnout is slightly less than for a split switch turnout because the split switch points are considered straight. Split switch points are connected with joint bars in full size turnouts except for switches over 20 feet in length, then they are welded in about where the joint bars would be as these are considered high speed mainline turnouts. Fortunately, your trackwork is very good and the kinks in the switch point ends don't create problems for you. I don't even suggest going back to redo your work but I thought you might like to know just for information and for anyone else also.
I built the turnout from a photo from the prototype. Not sure what you mean. The three-way is sufficient and functional from my point-of-view and frequent visits to the actual location. Thanks for sharing though. 😁Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama Your work is great. The track works great. Just thought you might be interested for future reference and for others information also. I thought you had said you had not gone all the way up to the 3-way switch and was relying on photos to build from.
That's great work. Someone commented in your previous video about how they had learnt more from your videos in a few months than decades of reading articles. I couldn't agree more. It's great to see how many people you have reached and inspired. You are a very good teacher. Your video production is top notch too.
Thank you very much! The greatest compliment a teacher can receive is what you just mentioned. ;-)
I defy any one watching this for the first time to not believe this is hand laid wooden planks. Wow!
Lol . . . that's the idea. ;-)
There’s nothing more satisfying than weathering
Yes indeed it is!
Speechless….. and this is just part one 😊!
Thank you. Lot's of details to go as well!
You sir, are the Rembrandt of model railroading! When I grow up (I am 65 now) I hope I can come close to your skill level.
😁Thank you dear Sir. I appreciate the compliment! ~ Boomer.
Some people like Picasso but I for one get the same joy and emotion when I see a model done ,painted, this well.
It feels like all the late night modeling, etc. are finally paying dividends after all these decades. It's a great feeling indeed. I am almost scared to finish it because I don't know what I will do next. The process is a fantastic experience though. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama you deserve all the accolades.
@@bobainsworth5057 Thank you Sir.
So after a year of thinking about this I came back a few times last week to watch it in preparation to paint a wooden barn I’d made. Siding was individual styrene boards with gaps between them and I was so exited to try this method. Man, it’s was so much fun and the final result is stunning. I’m going to do more wooden structures now because I’m hooked. Thank you for the inspiration.
I saw the barn. It looks fantastic. Once you learn to scribe and paint plastic with acrylics there is no going back to wood. Believe me, I built and painted many wooden kits in the past and plastic is the way to go if you are up for the learning curve. Cheers.😁
So beautiful, nothing more to add.
Thank you. Well into the paint phase now. Feels good finally. ;-)
Thanks for sharing. Looks real. Wow.
Thank you.
Stunning. Simply stunning.
Thank you Larry! Cheers!
Another grate job. Still learning.
You can do it!
I love this demonstration of using the airbrush to fade and ghost the bleached finish onto the (plastic) wooden deck. It’s giving me the courage to experiment and who cares if you make mistakes along the way ! Cheers Boomer
It's amazing how the airbrush renders an otherwise "opaque" paint transparent in this case. It's the reverse of the oil pin wash method with more color vibrancy.
Wow! More talent in your "trigger finger" than most have in their entire body! Thank you for the inspiration...
Thank you so much 😀
Beautiful work. That styrene looks amazing. Impossible to tell it is not wood.
Thank you.
Great tips about shading your colors
Glad it was helpful!
Absolutely stunning!
Thank you! Cheers!
I am definitely going to use my airbrush more after seeing your video!
You should! Cheers ~ Boomer.
Been using and Aztek 3000 for a very long time. It's an extension of my hands. I have taught at least 20 professional artist's the same. No 2 artist's are a like. Great tool, and even greater in the hands of an artist like you or I. I can never shut up about using a airbrush. "See!" Great skill sir. You can pull women's silk stalking's over a wood piece as a filter, using a emerald light green paint, to show algae/moss buildup on wood. Great JOB. Makes me happy to see a Master Craftsman use an Airbrush like me.
I appreciate you sharing your experiences with the airbrush. I could not imagine being in the hobby without one. Glad to hear it has become a part of you. Thank you for sharing the stocking trick! Cheers ~ Boomer.
Outstanding work Boomer, your tutorial is great👍👍👍
Thank you Ron. I am always pleased to hear when someone benefits from it. Cheers ~ Boomer.
I'meaning how nice is this layout in person, câmeras can't show eyes interpretation of colours and light, this is beautiful in the screem imagine it alive!
It does look great live for sure! . . . especially in the morning with my favorite Americano!
WOW......Just WOW....Great paint work....
Thank you! Cheers!
Fantastic work in creating the effect wi an airbrush, Navy non-skid was a combination of fresh new sandblasting grit and paint, two basic colors black and machinery grey. Super hard on your hands and knees when crossing the equater going from a polywig to a shellback.
Thank you! Cheers!
WOW FACTOR!!!
Thanks. The deck looks awesome. ;-)
I am working toward highlighting individual boards on the side of box cars and your video is evidence that this can be done with the airbrush! Thanks for your detailed tutorial.
Yes, absolutely! That is part of the reason for the tutorial. You can't paint rolling stock this way as well. Cheers.
Inspiration overload! Time to start building! Amazing work as usual Boomer. Cheers! John
Have fun!
Absolutely fantastic, Boomer, can’t for part 2 Regards Jeff
Great! Thank you!
Such a masterpiece from a true master of his craft. Congratulations, and continued thanks for inspiring me to just dig in and not be afraid! Model on Boomer!!
Awesome! Thank you!
So true: we over do it. I've noticed that when I focus on a single effect (say a whitish salt deposit on a rock wall) that is all I see. The following day I'm thinking the overall impression is rather over the top operatic. So now when it seems I've done nothing -I walk away as I have probably done too much. This seems especially true with light earth tones. And yes guys, use that IPA, desaturate and tone down that paint and build up in layers!
Again some wonderful advice from you. It's encouraging how you look at your surroundings and actually see and then translate that into a model. Thank you dear Boomer.
The hobby is an unreal experience when you think about it. Furthermore, we all seek comfort and this is a healthy way of doing it. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama I probably don't understand what you mean as I find the work very real knowing full well it is creating an illusion, telling a story... In that respect it is quite similar to my acting experience.
Looking real good! I will definitely agree with you on the airbrush, at first I was a little clumsy with it, but after using it for a while now I found I cannot live without one ever again!
Thanks for sharing!
The Weathered Deck. Hints of Rust. Sound like romance novels. I guess at your level it is like writing a novel. Layers are like chapters that lead to the finale.
😁
Great video can’t wait to try this method. Hope it turns out as good as yours. As always thank you for your tips.
Enjoy the learning experience. I learn as I go. ;-)
That looks amazing!
Thank you. It was worth all the preliminary work!
Awesome what I have waited for
Me too! ;-)
Searched several thesauruses, gonna go with pulchritudinous.
Lol . . . ;-)
Lacey Mosley 👍
Thank you! Cheers.
Really great video. I have watched it several times and glean more with each viewing. How do you do your rivet detail. I want to scratch a truss bridge, which will have many rivets. Archer makes decals and some modelers make their own rivets. Any suggestions? Thanks, Kennedy
Awesome, thank you!
Dear Boomer,
Very awesome how you’ve shown these techniques. Absolutely am going to get out the airbrush and tie up my aptitude.
By the way, have been going along the Fraser river on Google earth, several times now. Took me a while to find the barge slip. Found it though, my patience was rewarded.
Must say there that your representation of the railcar ferry ‘bridge’ has become a very realistic representation of its bigger version. Curious though why this ferry service is still in operation, when I see the amount of railroad bridges crossing the Fraser, in the north south direction. Predominately a bit further east, those land bridges. A question therefore; does the railcar ferry service the islands west of Vancouver? Curious also to find a good read on the history of this particular service and others.
Thanks 🙏 for sharing!!
Yes. The Barge Slip serves Vancouver Island and all the associated mills, industries, etc.
😊
Cheers.
what exact tamiya numbers were used for this great raw umber? i couldnt find a ready to use raw umber from tamiya...
thanks in advance
Just Mix Red Brown with Black 50/50 to start.
I’d say 90% of my modeling involves a good IPA as well. Wait… we are talking about the same thing aren’t we?
Cheers!
Outstanding work! Thanks again for the teaching element you add to your videos. What airbrush set-up would you recommend for a beginner?
Here is a great one for the money. Should last twenty years: usaairbrushsupply.com/products/omni-5000-gravity-feed-airbrush
My compressor: aircompressorsusa.com/makita-mac-700-review/
@@boomerdiorama thank you much!
When you mix your ratio of ipa to pigment what unit of measurement do use? For example: 8 tsps ipa to 2 tsp pigment.
I just eye ball everything as listed in the videos as "percentage" according to the bottle. I go by feel. Sorry to disappoint you, it just comes with age when you have been doing it as long as I have. ;-)
Excellent!!! This is a master class on how to paint/weather styrene to look like wood... Well done sir!
One thing though... I feel like I need to buy/donate a handle to your airbrush, perhaps a new needle (one that's not bent) as well!! LOL...
That poor thing needs some TLC... Spare parts are available for it based on the info you put up at the beginning of this video. Did you lose the handle, or just choose not to put it back on?
Anyway... Well done. I've always been a big proponent of using real wood for "wood" parts, but you've clearly shown that styrene is just fine with a little bit more effort.
I adjusted to it long ago. If I change it now I will end up bent . . . lol.
I know now is not the time to let you know that the 3-way stub turnout is not very correct. I just went back to "The Barge Slip Build | The Ramp Head & Deck Part 8" to see how it was constructed. I have not been subscribed but for a few months. A stub turnout and split switch turnout are identical for construction except for the switch points. Regular frogs are used, bolted or cast but considering other traffic may be on the barge and slip, self-guarding would probably not be used. Stub points are actually part of a long or full-length rail and are spiked to the ties except for the point area where slide plates are used under the rails to support them. The points form almost a true curve when they are thrown by an amount equal to that of a split switch throw and are connected with 2 more connector bars between the point rails to hold the gauge but they "float". For practical purposes, the curve of the turnout starts where the points are last spiked and continue to the toe of the frog and this curve is in the points and stock and closure rails as one unit but for the cut to provide the joint. This is where the term "bending the iron" comes from. The lead of a stub turnout is slightly less than for a split switch turnout because the split switch points are considered straight. Split switch points are connected with joint bars in full size turnouts except for switches over 20 feet in length, then they are welded in about where the joint bars would be as these are considered high speed mainline turnouts.
Fortunately, your trackwork is very good and the kinks in the switch point ends don't create problems for you. I don't even suggest going back to redo your work but I thought you might like to know just for information and for anyone else also.
I built the turnout from a photo from the prototype. Not sure what you mean. The three-way is sufficient and functional from my point-of-view and frequent visits to the actual location. Thanks for sharing though. 😁Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama Your work is great. The track works great. Just thought you might be interested for future reference and for others information also. I thought you had said you had not gone all the way up to the 3-way switch and was relying on photos to build from.
@@royreynolds108 I wish I had drawings (blue prints) for the whole barge slip and track work. If so, I would have built it all in "O" Scale. ;-)
No Volume. Might be my device.
Volume should be good. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama it was my device. Great work my friend. Cheers.
@@joebakewell7566 Thank you!😁