Engine Building Part 1 - Installing the Crankshaft in a 350 Chevy for a '76 Vette
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- This is the first video in the engine building series for the Chevy 350 engine. In this video we install the crankshaft, check main bearing clearance, and crankshaft end play.
automotive engines diagnosis repair rebuilding
automotive engines diagnosis repair rebuilding pdf
best book for rebuilding engines
books on how to build engines
books on rebuilding car engines
books on rebuilding engines
chevy performance engines
crate engines vs rebuilding engine
ford performance engines
gm performance engines
guide to rebuilding engines
high performance engines
how to build 4.6 ford engines
how to build a car engine at home
how to build a car engine for dummies
how to build a car engine from scratch book
how to build a car engine step by step
how to build a car engines
how to build a custom car engine
how to build a fast car engine
how to build and modify gm chevrolet engines
how to build and modify gm ls-series engines
how to build big block chevy engines
how to build big block ford engines
how to build big-inch gm ls-series engines
how to build buick engines
how to build car engine from scratch
how to build car engines
how to build chevy engines
how to build classic hot rod v8 engines
how to build clone racing engines
how to build drag race engines
how to build ford engines
how to build ford fe engines
how to build high performance chrysler engines
how to build high performance engines
how to build high performance pontiac engines
how to build high torque engines
how to build honda engines
how to build killer big-block chevy engines
how to build max-performance ford 5.0 coyote engines
how to build max-performance ford fe engines download
how to build small-block ford racing engines
how to build your first car engine
how to build your own car engine from scratch
how to remove carbon buildup in engines
performance crate engines
rebuilding alfa romeo engines
rebuilding audi engines
rebuilding auto engines
rebuilding big block chevy engines
rebuilding bmw engines
rebuilding boat engines
rebuilding car engines
rebuilding chevy big block engines
rebuilding chevy engines
rebuilding classic car engines
rebuilding diesel engines
rebuilding diesel engines cost
rebuilding engines for a living
rebuilding engines for dummies
rebuilding ford big block engines
rebuilding ford engines
rebuilding ford fe engines
rebuilding g35 engines
rebuilding gm ls engines
rebuilding small block ford engines
tools for rebuilding engines
When you go from a higher to a lower setting on your torque wrench, in this case from 70 ft lbs to 65 ft lbs, you should go down from 70 to a lower number say 40 ft lbs, then back up to 65 to take up the back lash in the screw to get a truer setting.
You are absolutely correct. I did that briefly out of the camera shot. I'll make that point in the next video, thank you
Yes sir, you are a mechanic and not a hack by that statement.
Another way I do if anyone likes...do them all at 65 then do the 70s and one more quick check on the 65s
Thanks for the video. Don't plan on building an engine, but I love the shared knowledge you provide.
Thank you very much my friend
Really enjoying your videos buddy. I’ve always been interested in building my own engine from the ground up and your videos are answering all of my questions. I have plans of finding an old lesser known muscle car and going through it, the engine being the soul or the heart of the car. Anyway, thank you SO much for taking the time and putting forth the effort to make these videos.
That's awesome! Thanks for watching Sam
I know this is late, but if you're still looking for a lesser known one, may I suggest the Olds 4-4-2?
When I prep a block I usually wash it down with a pressure washer and hot water and then I have it magnafluxed. If it passes muster I take it back to my shop and spend some time cleaning up the casting flash on the outside. I don't grind it smooth just make the ugglys go away. Before I put the die grinder down I check all of the oil return hole in the valley paying particular attention to the ones in the corners. I have found oil return holes completely plugged with flash and others where the flash will break away with a push of my finger. I take the block back to the machine shop for a through cleaning, boring, decking, and other necessary machine work. When the machine shop is finished I take the block back to the shop where I wash it with hot water and Dawn dishwashing soap. All of the oil passages are rod brushed until they rinse clear. Finally I scrub the bores with Comet and immediately rinse and spray with WD40. The final step is a cylinder wipe down with paper towels and WD40. When the paper towels come out clean I am ready to start assembling.
That is a great process. My machine shop does all of that too. I'd be a bit careful with the paper towels though, they can breakdown and leave tons of fibers behind. Sounds like you're doing a great job, keep it clean with lint free cloth.
Do you clean the wd40 off before assembly or will it not affect anything?
Hey Pete! Thank you for putting your videos in order. So many You Tube contributors just up load without a care in the world to the order. I can click on your channel and know for certain that a series will work with the auto play feature. Thanks again Sir.
That's awesome! I try to help as much as possible. Thanks David
I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR ATTENTION TO DETAIL AND YOUR EFFORT TO TEACH ! I LOVED YOUR MOPAR AND FORD 302 BUILDS... I LOVE THE FACT THAT YOU ARE AN ENGINE LOVER LIKE ME AND NOT " BRAND" SPECIFIC...ALTHOUGH I LOVE PONTIAC MOTORS ! I WOULD LOVE TO SEE YOU DO A HYPO 421 428 OR 455 ! WITH TODAYS TECH IMPROVEMENTS YOU CAN REALLY MAKE GEMS OUT OF SOME OLD ENGINES ! ELECTRONIC IGNITIONS AND FUEL INJECTION MAKE IT A WHOLE NEW WORLD !!!!!!!
KEEP UP THE GOODNESS !!!!
Thanks Daniel, I'm not an engine loyalist, I like something about them all. I'm guessing you use AutoCad and leave your Caps Lock on......lol
My wife works at Sarrett tool making company. Where your caliper came from.👍 Best tool making company in the U.S. that's for sure.
They make some of the best measurement equipment for sure
Hi from Australia. Pete thx for doing this small block series. Going over your videos for a 350 rebuild for my 69 Nova. Really appreciate how thorough your videos are. 👍👍
Thanks Mick! I'm glad they help
Nice video. I subscribed. I haven't built a 350 in about 15 years so this is a perfect refresher.
Thanks for the sub! Welcome my friend
Great Video.I am learning alot from your videos. Thank you
Thanks Richard
Thanks for your videos Pete. I’ve been binge watching your channel. I’m going to be assembling the engine in my 87’ 560SL in the next couple of weeks. I have already dissembled the engine entirely except for the crankshaft because I’m scared to death to remove it. It’s my first time ever rebuilding an engine, but I know I must remove the crankshaft in order to properly clean the block. I wish you were here to calm my nerves. I’ve been documenting the process of restoring my 560SL on my RUclips channel. The car has not been started since 2008.
That's a big project, but you can do it
Done right! Nice to see.
Thanks again Keith
Great video Pete seems like I learn more techniques from each different mechanic and your video was pretty good.
Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge. Blessings
We all learn from each other, thanks Mike
I know this thread is several years old but a guy I know watched it and asked me a question and I thought the answer to that question would be appropriate here since I did not see it in the video.
The publisher stated that he did torque the bolts in steps which would have been nice to mention in the video. Also the thrust bearing needs to be set in place. Most builders will torque all the main caps in steps and then loosen the rear main cap and lightly tighten to around 15 lbs. Get a plastic or rubber hammer and strike the back of the crankshaft where the flywheel rides and that will set you thrust bearing halves. Now torque to specs. .004-.008 is the acceptable spec for the 350 crank end play where as I tend to shoot for .006. If the thrust is too tight after checking it several times then the thrust bearing halves need to be sanded. To do this you will need a a sheet of 400 grit wet or dry and a sheet of 1000 grit wet or dry. You also need a smooth flat surface such as a piece of glass or aluminum large enough for the sandpaper to fit on. Take the bearing halves and put them together like they would be if surrounding the crank journal. Use a large stainless hose clamp to hold them together. Now put some marvel mystery oil and something to lube the paper while sanding. Sand only the face of the bearing that points towards the front of the engine. You leave the rear side alone due to the thrust from the torque converter or clutch.
Measure the bearing thickness and note that on the bearing in the location you measured. Do this in several places. Most performance bearings are built with multiple ramps so measure carefully and record the thickest overall measurement. Now sand the forward side of the bearing halves in a figure 8 pattern, stopping ever so often to clean and check the measurement until you have removed the desired amount to achieve the .006 of end play.
I hope this helps someone. That end play is important so take your time and make sure it right. The effort and time you take to do it will make you proud that you did it right the first time.
Great comment
We are all mechanics down here, either self taught or having a diploma like me. I like watching your videos as the learning process never ends especially with newer technologies. Thank you for posting and thumbs up!
A suggestion, these videos were made a while back, could you remake them but this time use diagrammes and sketches of parts on a white board like these bearing clearances etc.
I could but there are so many pictures and diagrams online
What about a dial bore gauge? Maybe less chance of scratching. Love the videos 👌🏼👌🏼
You can use a bore gauge, but I'm trying to show how to do it with standard tools most people own. Thanks for the comment
great video Pete I remember doing this in school
A set of snap gauges comes in handy all the time for inside dimensions: use tips that have a slight convex grind/polish, which is kind to surfaces and lets simple calipers to be used afterwards once matching dimension is locked down. It's cheaper than having a dedicated bore gauge, with more uses. A set [of 5 or 6] is going to be anywhere between $35 and $200 depending on features/coatings etc. For most engine work, single side telescoping is all that you'll ever need [and that makes the tool cheaper to own]. The set I have used for years is a 5 piece [Starrett No. S229GZ], which I take care of by wiping down with just a little SP350 before putting back in the toolbox.
Actually anyone can afford a dail bore gage. U can buy good name brand ones used on ebay.also check Craigslist and Facebook market place.
U can also buy cheap imported ones and they work quite well.i own a machine shop and use the cheap ones(calibrated they work well i have checked using my brand named ones)
Using a plastic gage is the old school way...
Also never trust any machine shop when ur building motors..and especially if ur doing it for other people. Alway always check the work the best u can. Anyone can make mistakes...plus if we know ur the average joe....certain things are let go because we know u will only bring that car out 5 times a yr.maybe lite the tires once or twice but thats it..no matter what u tell us most cars don't leave the house..or trailer...if we know ur going to race it and beat it....well thats a different story
@@redneckswitwheels I have a question do u have IG?
Very nice! Enjoyed the video and very informative! You have a new subscriber. Thanks Pete!
Thanks Gerry and welcome!
Thanks for the video, In reference to machine shop, research all the suppliers and contractors you use, often one of the greatest assets a business person has, they have saved my employer from many mistakes and possible lawsuits.
Absolutely, thanks Jonathan
I love watching your videos.
Thanks my friend
Would liked to The ve seen more on the resr main seal and thrudt bearinh installation and less of the bolt torqueing
Ok, on the next one.
Great video. Keep up the good work.
Thank Boss!
Master work
Thank you
Great video ! Can't wait for the next one .
It's already out he Melvin, thanks!
BFS. Haha Sense of humor in this crazy world is mandatory.
Everyone is always so serious
Nice i have always want to subscribe to ur channel but never had a chance to do it but like always great videos and well explain
Thank you my friend
Happy New year to you and your Family 🤗 👌
Thank you, same to you Charles
Thanks Pete
Love your videos
Good stuff!!
Thanks!
very nice
Thanks
Thank you very much
You are welcome
I really like the plasti-gauge. Seems like it would be extremely accurate.
It does the job
Very nice channel.
Thank you my friend
When you measure bore with bearing shells fitted it should be crown to crown. Otherwise you risk adding tolerances from eccentricity and joint face relief on shells.
Great tip!
@@PetesGarage also, bearing wall thickness is measured at crown for grading.
Great video!! Question; have you ever had to fix crank bolt threads or even drill and tap a bigger bolt in? I damaged about a quarter inch of threads on the beginning part of the threads with my balancer removal tool. Do you think that is fine? Thanks!!
I have had to fix them, use a tap and see how it looks
@@PetesGarage I tapped the threads with original size 7/16 20 tap but that first quarter inch of threads are toast. The rest of the threads are perfect.
I think it will be fine
@@PetesGarage It was! Thanks so much
Hi im 22 and building my first 350 vortec for my studebaker avanti. I installed my new crank and bearings. When i go through my first pass of torque, my crank spins freely during my second the crank locks up. Any ideas or advice?
Did you check all of the bearing clearances? Possible something under one of the bearings?
@@PetesGarage my dumb ass had the main caps on backwards... That was all. Hopefully nothing got scored
Thanks!
Welcome!
I know this might be a dumb question to ask.
But is building an engine cheaper than buying an already built one?
For example is it cheaper to buy a 2.3L MUSTANG ECOBOOST CRATE ENGINE or build one yourself?
Any advice would be appreciated
It really depends on the level of quality you want in parts. With identical parts a crate would be about the same. If you want to change parts to increase performance it's better to build yourself.
Staggering the rear main seal. Do you do that on a Small block ford as well? Great video thanks for making these.
I do that on every engine that has a symmetrical, split rear seal.
@@PetesGarage Thanks very much, Pete, for sharing your knowledge. I'm doing this with the engine still in and working from below on 351W. Any way I can be certain I'm not crimping the gasket by staggering it like this? I see people using Permatex Black gasket maker just at the gasket. Any thoughts on that? Also, did you apply sealant beneath the gasket. Thanks so much!
What is the benefit of installing the crank before the Camshaft does it matter which way. Or is doing the crank first best?
It really does not matter. I put in the rotating assembly first so if I drop a rod nut or bolt it doesn't nick the cam.
awesome!
Thank you my friend
you're welcome! but thanks to you! your videos are very helpful!
cool bon boulot
What do you use to wash off the bearing and bearing surfaces? I've heard to use rubbing alcohol...denatured alcohol...brake clean. I just wanna know what is the best to use.
Any of those will work just fine. I use alcohol IPA
❤️ your channel!🚙💨💨💨💨💨🔥🔥🔥🏁🏁🏁
Thank you!
Is this instal of the crank and most the parts on the small block..the same as a big block Chevy? Thanks awesome videos!
Yes it is
Nice. I have a V-6 crankshaft in the bottom of a Nissan 3.3L VG33E long block, from my 1998 Pathfinder, 166,000 miles. Very clean and owned by an elderly couple since new. Oil pan is off. Block is sitting on its top in a tire giving me access to crank. It is a spare motor. It was having rod and/or main bearing knock. I found shavings in oil and filter. It had been oil starved from previous owner, due to a leak they didn't notice. First I had moonlighting mechanic try to refresh bearings. Nothing changed. I'm not sure he did it well. I had it pulled out and replaced with used motor. I want to restore the crank, flush motor with cheap vegetable oil and then diesel and put it back in. Any suggestions? My first time doing any motor block repair. Thanks!
You have to check all of the cylinders and pistons, cam, anything that moves.
You answered a question I had on installing a clocked rear main seal , but I wish you would have went into a little more detail on the location of the clocked rear main seal and the sealer you used, did you put sealer behind the seal on both the block & cap ? did you wait to let the stuff tack up ? how long to tack up before you installed the cap. ?
Just as long as the break in the seal is not in line with the cap. Put sealer behind the seal on just one side, block or cap. I use Hi Tack, you can put it on right away.
Go Sabres!
Too bad they didn't make it
How about slowing down a bit on the torque pattern? Or showing it on paper. Thanks.
You could always hit pause
@@PetesGarage Hi Pete and thanks for the reply. I did hit pause and you're correct the torque pattern is pretty simple cross pattern working from the center out. Thanks again.
Ik you made this video a year ago but Pete would all of the torque settings you use for this 350 would it be the same for a big block Chevy say a 454? And thank you for the videos!!
No, a big block is different. All engines are really different. You need the torque specs for each engine.
I know most DIY engine builders won't have a ball caliper to measure main/rods bearing IDs but a flat tip caliper is going to throw your measurements of a few thousandths, just saying
Thanks Daniel
What happens when you use a standard 2 Bolt L48 block? Will the crank break?
No
When using plastigage do you have to install all the other mains can can I just torque down 1 main without having to install the rest
You can do all or 1 at a time
Don't forget arrows on the caps face forward.
Great tip!
How many foot pound of torque can it take to turn a brand new engine thats been primed without spark plugs in the heads? also is this ok to do? i dont mean as a hobby,lol but just to check things? i assume it is since a lot of people turn their engines while they prime them and also to check pushrods and things like that, i have worked around engines all my life but im not a real pro in rebuilding them.
I have a 347 that i had professionally built and i have it siting on a cradle because its gonna go in a car a few months down the road, the engine was primed and its a beaut but it takes like 42 pounds of torque to turn this thing and i was wondering if that was normal, thank you for your time.
Depending on the compression it could take quite a bit. As long as it turns smoothly it's ok.
Which anaerobic sealant did you use? I see Permatex 51531 but they also have a 51813 and I can’t see what the difference is
Either will work fine
Just got block back from machine shop , it was cleaned by the machine shop but I want to double check that the galleys are 100% clean what can I do to clean the galleys and remove all the wd40 that was sprayed
You can spray it down with IPA
Also don't forget to use assembly lube on bearing surfaces before final installation and torquing of bearing caps.
I did do that, I tried to make the video shorter, I guess I should show every step.
Nah. I know you use assembly lube Pete. My comment was for the person that's never done a rebuild before and is contemplating it. Just watching your back,so to speak. The videos are fine. Keep em coming. ;-)
Real nice job so far, Pete. What would you do without all the Y-Tube certified engine builders? It's not the space shuttle people.
Thanks my friend. Well, I appreciate every comment. There is something to be learned from them all. BUT, I do delete profanity and insults. If it's not a constructive comment that adds value I delete it.
Actually anyone building an engine thinks of it as important as the space shuttle. The tolerances in engine building are as tight as some on the shuttle.
Getting ready to stroke my 350. How do you keep your block from flash-rusting? Soak it in WD-40? I'm really enjoying your videos. Thanks!!!!
Yes WD works well
Many videos on how to use plastigauge, but they are always "correct". What to do when it's not, or just one is off, get new bearings?
Yes
Why didn’t you show where you put your bfs?!
It's a secret
so for a 600 hp sbc with .003 bearing clearance what oil do you recommend?
10W30 Penn Grade racing oil
I think plastigage works good.
It does the job
Does the permatex for the rear main seal go all the way around or just at the top of the seal?
All the way around
Pete, i have always torqued the mains in increments of 40, 55, 70, but you went right to 70lbs. have i been doing it wrong ? never had any issues.
I go in 3 steps to...did you miss it?
When checking clearances do you do all the bearing at once or one by one when the plastiy gauge?
One at a time
The best way to do it...is to learn to do EVERYTHING URSELF THE RIGHT WAY... NEVER TRUST A MACHINE SHOP......
ASK ME HOW I KNOW....
i am
A
Machinist
Thanks for the comment
@@PetesGaragehow about making videos and showing it the right way. U should never trust a machine shop. U should verify everything every time
@@PetesGaragealso using dial calipers isn't how u check a bore. U will never get a correct measurement
What if your specs are out. Also could you show in more detail how to set up dial guage and about end play in crankshaft
If the specs are out it needs to be reground or different sized bearings put in
Pete's Garage thanks for reply...your videos are interesting...can you show a bit about thrust washers...
On the next engine, sure
I too let the machine shop check the clearances.
It is much simpler if you have the money.
what kind of bearings is this ?
Brand or type?
Why no oil windage tray on the main caps ?
They're not really needed depending on the crank you choose
How would I go about making sure the end play is okay without that tool? Thanks Len.
You really need something to measure, those are pretty cheap
Feeler gauge
Any hints of what the next project might be ?
I have another 440 and a few other things in the works
What's the best cleaner for the bearing if you have touched it? Rubbing alcohol?
Alcohol or any degreaser like laquer thinner
Pete's Garage Thanks Pete. I really enjoy these in depth videos.
Is this applicable to later model gm 5.7s? Like an 88 silverado motor?
Yes
Good video . ? do you lube main bolts
Only if the manufacturer says to, like ARP
bore gauge and micrometer is the only real way
Perhaps
Straight to 70lb ft?
I go 3 steps
No FM foreign material
What brand is that assembly lube
Any lube with PTFE is good
Hey Pete just found your channel. I trust my machine shop to do the measurements, if I had to redo their work then I don't trust them and I need to find a new machine shop.
P.S. I appreciate the fact you call it an engine and not a motor!!! Just hit the sub button for ya!!! Keep Rocking!!!
That's cool....keep Rockin' my friend
HOW MUCH WAS TOTAL MACHINING ?
It was around $500
Well if you dont have a dial bore gauge I guess thats why you let the shop do it for ya? What the hell????????
I have a bore gauge, but if the machine shop is doing the machine work, they have to check it to match the piston.
Pete. Where in New York r u located? I recognized your area code
Outside of Buffalo
@@PetesGarage im in Buffalo black Rock area
@@PetesGarage i followed this video to bring my 350 back from the dead
Thanks Chris
You don’t torque in stages???
Yes I do. I only showed the final stage here.
My crank is tight
Take it apart and figure why
@@PetesGarage I found crack going to braze weld it's aluminum.
Can motor honey be a good lube for bearings
I don't think so. It's an oil treatment, not an assembly lube.
Wats the torque number?
Depends on the block and main size
350
7:33 Boop
Ok, I am missing that
@@PetesGarage I saw a little piece of your mallet broke off and fall inside around this time.
You have a good eye, I caught that and removed it.
Should have oil on the seal and the bolt threads
ruclips.net/video/XlNig19tWg8/видео.html
Pete's Garage yes, understand, but torque on bolts are too inconsistent w/o lubricant.
Front Line Media WRONG about oil on the threads. You WILL get an inaccurate reading by oiling the threads and can over torque them, not to mention this will seriously affect TTY bolts. You can also get too much oil into the bolt hole and cause a hydrolock issue and then not get enough torque. Seriously bad advise, man.
Do u know the torque spec on a sbc 2 bolt mains. Thanks
That's easy to find online