The only upgrade I can see needed on the tuning plate is an eyelet in the middle to lift it out with a hook! How much is the build kit for a UDS from your company?
Yeah! I hear that! Our new setup will be available soon! GO TO: www.smokerplans.com/optin-36437355 and subscribe to be notified when it becomes available!
So to increase the temps, I need more air? But I need to have it flowing over/through the coals? Not around them? I built a DIY UDS and haven’t been able to get above 220ish. So it works. Just not well. I don’t want to add bigger inlets (drill bigger holes and buy new pipes). I’ve increased the number, and size, of the holes in the basket, but haven’t tested it yet. If inefficient, should I add pipes so the air is flowing directly under the coals?
It really depends on the size of those pipe connections. One way to tell is if your charcoal lasts more or less than 10 hours. If you’re using 15 pounds of charcoal and it lasts less than 10 hours you are likely cold drafting or down drafting. Down drafting: watch for Smoker coming out your intakes periodically. Cold drafting is air running around the fire but not being heated. You should get close to our greater than 1 hour of burn time per pound of charcoal. If your charcoal lasts longer than that and you still can’t get hot enough then you might have a lack of enough air flow. Could be the intakes or the stack Hope this helps! Join SmokerBuilderU.com for free to post about this in our community
You say the heat shield helps air get to the charcoal basket without bypassing it, but it seems like the opposite would happen. It looks like air would go up the side of the heat shield (in the gap between it and the drum wall) Unless the blockoff plate extended all the way to the drum wall, which it looks like isn't the case. Am I wrong?? Thanks!
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The only upgrade I can see needed on the tuning plate is an eyelet in the middle to lift it out with a hook! How much is the build kit for a UDS from your company?
Yeah! I hear that!
Our new setup will be available soon!
GO TO:
www.smokerplans.com/optin-36437355
and subscribe to be notified when it becomes available!
Great information Frank !!
👍👍😉😁✌🇺🇸👊
thanks bro!!
How do you feel about the Cotten Gin Harvester set up and defuse plate
So to increase the temps, I need more air? But I need to have it flowing over/through the coals? Not around them? I built a DIY UDS and haven’t been able to get above 220ish. So it works. Just not well. I don’t want to add bigger inlets (drill bigger holes and buy new pipes). I’ve increased the number, and size, of the holes in the basket, but haven’t tested it yet. If inefficient, should I add pipes so the air is flowing directly under the coals?
I used a coupler-nipple-elbow connection, so adding a short pipe to each inlet will be relatively easy.
It really depends on the size of those pipe connections.
One way to tell is if your charcoal lasts more or less than 10 hours.
If you’re using 15 pounds of charcoal and it lasts less than 10 hours you are likely cold drafting or down drafting.
Down drafting: watch for Smoker coming out your intakes periodically.
Cold drafting is air running around the fire but not being heated.
You should get close to our greater than 1 hour of burn time per pound of charcoal.
If your charcoal lasts longer than that and you still can’t get hot enough then you might have a lack of enough air flow. Could be the intakes or the stack
Hope this helps!
Join SmokerBuilderU.com for free to post about this in our community
You say the heat shield helps air get to the charcoal basket without bypassing it, but it seems like the opposite would happen. It looks like air would go up the side of the heat shield (in the gap between it and the drum wall) Unless the blockoff plate extended all the way to the drum wall, which it looks like isn't the case. Am I wrong?? Thanks!
Pretty sure my bbq guru and the fireboard both have an open lid detection option to prevent such overshoots