JAPANESE KNOTWEED: Growing in YOUR backyard?
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- Yikes! Bob discovered invasive, fast growing, Japanese Knotweed growing in his own backyard! Time to see how much has come up so far this Spring and cut it low, or pull it out by the roots if possible. Japanese Knotweed can be very difficult to eliminate, especially if you don't stay on removing it!
Bob has been a RUclipsr since 2010, sharing decades of landscaping and gardening experience in videos on BOBscaping (the "channel"). We grant you a nonexclusive, nontransferable, limited right to access, use and display the channel, provided that you comply fully with these Terms & Conditions. All data and information provided on BOBscaping is for informational and entertainment purposes only. BOBscaping makes no representations as to accuracy, completeness, currentness, suitability, or validity of information on this site and will not be held liable for any errors or omissions in this information or any losses, injuries, or damages arising from its use. All information is provided on an as-is basis. Use your discretion before making any decisions based on anything you have seen here.
#knotweed #japaneseknotweed #noxiousweeds
I find that if you have a small patch of it, go out every two days and snip it right at the ground whenever it pops up, and plant Virginia Creeper or day lillies to out compete it. Because both Virgina Creeper and Day Lillies have rhizomes like knotweed, they are competing underground by their root system. Oh ya, almost forgot, it hates salt, so if you can use that and dont want to grow anything else that might be something to try. Wherever I use salt on the sidewalk in the winter, it seems to avoid those areas.
Thanks for sharing. Very interesting. I find that just by mowing the grass it stops Japanese Knotweed from spreading. Just like Bamboo.
I was badly mis-sold on our house and garden but I have managed to turn Japanese Knotweed into a powerful positive. I have a video of my garden on my Channel. I called it the 'Japanese Knotweed Garden.' I hope to write a book about my Journey with this plant. The main Council want to build more houses in our area which will put us all at risk from flooding. As it is our garden floods and the blocked off stream which was not on the Land Registry causes a problem with our patio. But I will turn this into a positive. 🐝🦋
I’m killing knotweed in my yard with ease and I hope I don’t regret my experiment in the spring. A year ago I acquired 3 kittens and decided to use pine pellet cat litter. It’s the same stuff used in horse stalls for bedding. When the pellets get a little wet they quickly expand & break apart into sawdust. I use a sifting litter box- the bottom is full of holes, a kitty colander if you will. This box nests in a solid bottom box into which I sift the cat pee sawdust. One day I thought, I bet this combination of acidic pine dust and pee ammonia will kill that knotweed that’s growing up next to the house. So, this past summer, every time I had filled a kitchen trash bag with used litter, sans poop, I’d haul it to the back yard and dump it at the base of the offending plants, a couple inches deep.
Now I know what you’re thinking. That’s gross and must stink like crazy. But it’s not that bad. The sawdust isn’t saturated because those pellets the cat actually pees on start breaking down and the surrounding dry pellets absorb the wet & break down too. Then the wet & not so wet sawdust mixes together in the sifting process. On top of that, the pine wood neutralizes the worst of the cat pee. This is the least offensive litter I’ve ever used.
Once spread around in the garden beds, it doesn’t take long for the remaining odor to dissipate. I admit it has it’s yukky factor. But it works at least as well as glysophate without the risk. I used quite a bit of roundup on my 5 acres for years before I & the general public became aware that it’s a carcinogen. In 2005 I was diagnosed with stage 3 breast cancer. This pee pee sawdust is a much more appealing solution to me.
Now the question is, what’s it going to take to recondition the soil in the spring? I’m hoping the worst of the ammonia will have been neutralized and that much of it and the acids from the pine is diluted and drawn down deeper into the soil when the snow melts. I plan to shovel off the litter & then do soil testing to see how much amending will be needed so I can put in some nice foundation plants. Wish me luck!
I’m very interested to know the outcome of your experiment
And...?
Be sure to keep us posted with updates! Meow meow
Great job, Bob. Been binging JK videos for natural ways to eradicate it...& don't want to set the neighborhood ablaze. Glad to find a short & simple video that I can share 'round!
Right on!
@@bobscaping Posted it & got responses already. That stuff is taking over around here. Thanks from upstate New York!
Cutting it helps spread it as only 10mm of stem can cause a new plant were it then becomes rampant
I'm trying to keep a close eye out for its return, there were a couple small spouts last year that I removed.
If I remember correctly, they are like bamboo in that they have mitochondria (which animals have), which is completely unlike other plants. So as well as photosynthesizing, they have aerobic resperation (what our muscle cells do). So they can put much greater amounts of energy quickly into growing.
While I don't know anything about that, I do know that some plants store energy to re-grow in their underground parts, and in the case of this plant, they are known as "rhizomes."
I think all plants have mitochondria?
I have about 5000 sq feet of this stuff to tackle, worrying about it spreading into the forest from the road frontage. I've been cutting it with a machete and I've been noticing the more often it's cut the slower and weaker it gets but I still haven't gotten to getting all the affected area once, but the driveway that was over-ran last year when I bought the driveway it's only able to grow to 2' or so from like 8-10' initially.
Thanks for sharing, sounds like a battle!
Yikes .. it takes a lot of discipline to control this stuff.
Yikes! What a nightmare! How's the battle going? Any tips or tricks on the efforts that are most worthwhile?
To tackle a huge patch like you have, (make a few trails first on the inside and also blaze a trail around the perimeter), start inside the clump and spray all the stems first, then start at the back and work your way out spraying the undersides of the leaves. Next, go around the perimeter of the patch, carefully spraying all the leaves around the outer edge. Lastly, open your nozzle to full stream and spray over the top of the patch from all sides. Take heart, next year the knotweed will be stunted and easier to spray.
1)The ultimate date for spraying Knotweed is on or around September 15, after the bees are done pollinating.
2) Use 2 ounces Glyphosate and one ounce of a sticker per gallon.
3) Tighten your nozzle to just more than a mist (depending on distance away from the plant) and cover every inch of each plant, first the stem, then leaves and undersides of leaves too if at all possible.
4) The silver bullet to eradicating knotweed is this... when you are done thoroughly spraying... wait for the herbicide to be totally absorbed/dry and spray it all over again one more time! (2nd spray could be done the next day.)
After only having 10 percent eradication of the knotweed clumps I treated year after year (for 10 years)... I finally used the double spray in one day technique and found 90% eradication the following season.
Bob, are you overrun with knotweed yet? Because from everything I've read and seen, that's exactly what NOT to do with Japanese knotweed: don't pull it up breaking off the rhizomes underground.
Hope all is well.
Checked that area a few days ago and didn't see any new sprouts, maybe we can attribute it to Luck!
@@bobscaping Fingers crossed! Nasty stuff.
Hi Bob. Thanks for making this video and proving you don't need pesticides to remove unwanted plants. I would love your thoughts on my 'Japanese Knotweed Garden' video. We were very badly mis-sold on our garden and house. But I have managed to turn the Japanese Knotweed into a powerful positive. Did you know that Bamboo (Japanese Knotweed) honey won an award in the USA? There is a video about it on RUclips. They are also making Japanese Knotweed Paper in Europe which saves trees. I've made organic Japanese Knotweed plant based soap. Oxford Bio confirmed that Japanese Knotweed has been used in the cosmetic industry for well over a decade for anitageing products. This plant is high in Resveratrol. Japanese Knotweed has also been used to treat Lyme's Disease. This plant cured my Asthma. My Government MP wrote to the Health Minister about my success with this herbal plant. I love it. Keep it away from neighbours fences and it stays put. Also mowing the lawn keeps it from spreading.
Totally edible and is an important plant that helps heal Lyme disease.
Really?? First I ever heard that!
Interesting
Source?
Our neighbors said that they have had wine made from it at a wine fair.
@@wandaleevidito BRUH. Seriously?
Can we get an update, how are things moving along with the knotweed?
Some day when I'm back there, among what's now overgrown with tall weeds (with my tick spray on) I'll take a fresh look. When I went back there a couple months ago, I didn't see any. The wild grape vines and poison hemlock also need constant attention.
Hi, how has the knotweed been? I am trying this method. But my yard is really overrun. I have so far only tried pulling them out at the root. Some were very large and heavy rhizomes. They appear to grow back thinner and smaller. Just not sure what to do next. Considering mowing over them, as my neighbor’s yard is all grass and my knotweed stops abruptly where their lawn is. So my hope is mowing helps but I’m reading online people saying not to do that. But I understand the letting it grow and cutting it, I suppose my real issue is there’s so much of it it’s hard want to let it grow.
It's a tough problem! That stuff is super aggressive, and you have to really keep after it. I did find a small sprout coming up last week from the patch in the video and pulled it and as many roots as possible out. I'll keep checking back on it and doing the same. Good luck with yours!
Use the green shoots blue herbicide in the fall. I use a soil knife to cut a hole in a thick stem and inject the tube. That seems to have cut down a local plot. Then knocked down dead stems in winter, maybe gather them into a pile. Now impatient in spring and give a pull from close to ground. Give it a shake to knock the dirt and leave then on top of a dead stem pile or put on a log with the roots up and exposed to air to dry out. Or park then in a crook of a tree ( along with the garlic mustard)
Very helpful! How is this patch doing now? Do you have newer or better methods to suggest that you've had more success with?
Do all the rhizomes eventually need to get pulled out after all of the cycles of cutting low before it grows past a foot high?
There were one or two sprouts there a couple weeks ago that I pulled out, trying to get as much root as possible. It's not an easily accessible area for more frequent checking. The whole idea is to weaken the amount of stored energy in the root.
@@bobscaping thanks for the update! Best wishes in getting rid of it!
bobscaping Have you ever tried other plants to deter Japanese Knotweed? Quash and pumpkins make Japanese Knotweed retreat. I think common nettles may have deterrent effects on Japanese Knotweed, but I am not sure.
Haven't tried planting any alternatives as this is in a fairly hard to reach area that doesn't get strong sunlight. Not far from this area, Poison Hemlock is working hard to gain a foothold.
Do you know if steam or propane fire weed killer can be used? What do you do with the shoots you pulled out? How do you dispose? I don't want to spread it further.
The only method I've ever used is physical removal, placing it in black plastic garbage bags for the weekly trash pickup.
@@bobscaping sorry not sure where you live but where I live I have been told that what you dig up must be burned.
@@bobscaping Hmm in the UK this is controlled waste, can't be disposed without license.
@@wandaleevidito spread it out to bake on asphalt parking lot , leave propped on a log with the roots facing up on nearby log
@@wandaleevidito that's what I do in us: new york
Ok you want to get rid of it..
I'm looking to grow some..
This plant just doesn't want to die..because it's sooooo medicinal.
For lyme etc..
I'd like to know what area does it grow.
And if I can grow some in a pot.
Because I live in NYC and well it's difficult here
That plant would probably grow on top of concrete with enough water!
Ok but where do I get some to plant it
It grows on stream banks and many other places, shouldn't be hard to find. Since it's classified as a noxious weed, there may be laws about transporting or propagating it.
@@bobscaping ok Bob thank you..got it!
I just thought it was like any other pesky weed
We went for a drive today, and I was seeing it growing everywhere... roadsides, big patches near farms, along streams... it's real easy to spot right now since it has white blossoms on it.
Can I grow grass with the bamboo? My whole yard is nothing but Jappanese knotweed.
That's a good question! You would likely have to rely on frequent mowing and a consistent broadleaf herbicide application program to make it work, but just guessing there.
Now u do know Japanese knotweed are edible and you can use it for medicinal purposes.
Only thing I really know about it is that I don't want it taking over any part of the yard, and that it can do so very fast.
Spray glyphosate before the first frost
While glyphosate is still sold in big box stores (last time I noticed was earlier this year) there are a bunch of lawsuits, so anyone still using it should be well aware of its potential adverse health outcomes. And as with any herbicide, be sure to read and follow label directions! I still see way too many homeowners out there spraying pesticides in shorts and flip-flops.
@@bobscaping thank you
I used commercial strength weed killer. Store bought weed killer is only 2% active ingredient. You will need 40% or higher found online and a syringe. Then in the fall use a cordless drill to make a hole in each of the growing stock a few inches above the ground and use the syringe to inject weed killer into each stock.
There is no need to cut down the plants. They will die naturally over the winter and you can remove them in the spring when they are completely dead.
You will notice drastic reduction of growth the next year and the next but it may take a few years of application to kill it all.