13B Rotary - After Rebuild Checklist - Finding Something Wrong?
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- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
- Everything you need to check after you stack your rotary engine to make sure your engine rebuild is ready to go! Unfortunately for me, this one needs to come back apart, but this provides an epic learning experience for you!
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/ radpotential
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You are a brave man to show everything. Good job, this will help everyone. I have a ‘79 12A that needs a rebuild. This is all very helpful. Thanks!
You give us the confidence with these engines
Watching these videos after putting my 12a together a couple months ago is a little anxious😂 waiting to hear everything I did wrong. So far so okay. Not perfect but we’ll see…I’ve already accepted the chance of having to pull it out and apart again….
Thanks for showing the compression test
Really enjoyed this adventure.
Nice, lunch time video!
In u job u can't get through with smooth sailing all the time. U must have challenges an that is how you gain experience I love challenges!!
I find Torqueing the front hub bolt will change end play, so i personally do not ugga dugga it tight, i torque it to spec everytime to get correct readings.
i just recently did my first rebuild. i definitely did some stuff wrong. time to tear it down and di it right
First, I love your videos and I have learned a lot from them.
Second, The fact that you include your mess ups, troubleshooting, and diagrams/references is awesome.
Third, I watched this entire video wondering why the timing gear orientation was important on 91 and earlier and you never delivered... I need this answer 🤣
Timing gear drives the distributor on the early cars. So if it's on backwards. Your timing is off by 3 degrees
Boy I'm happy that turned out better than it was going. Explains the clunk at the beginning for sure. 12lb thing is a good rule of thumb for future builds for me. Need to check my PP motor now lol
To answer the trivia question my guess is because from 91 and prior it used a CAS/distributor style and models afterwards had a Hall effect like cam/crank sensor
Yessir!!!
I always pressure test the coolant system before running the engine. I would find a way to put it on an engine stand and run it for a 15/20 minutes then check it.
I doubt you're going to find anything issue internally; waiting for the results .......... :)
Good job, just found the chanel and am enjoying the videos.
I'll be watching a few of your instructional vids soon.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
Good on you -from Australia 👍
No lube on the iron during the assembly could cause that friction I think. Maybe soak it a little with oil inside each chamber
I just wanted to say your a gun mate and very honest god bless you n you will only get better
Thanks man!!!
Good luck solving this problem
Love the set up. Thanks for the idea!
Just a fyi. Its a dial indicator, not a caliper.....
Just watching an not reading In cements. But did you forget the keyway drift key for the flywheel?
They are new rotor bearings that were pressed in, right? Were they checked for clearance? If they are very tight it could be causing some binding.
E shaft has plenty of endplay. That eliminates the bearings from being an issue
@@RADPotential hmm, but end-play is axial, the tightness seems radial, which tight bearings when the e-shaft is spun could cause some tightness, especially with assembly lube. Just a thought. Hope you find the smoking gun.
Another thought is that the e-shaft might be out of spec on runout (slightly bent)
My guess is something with oil control rings🤷♂️. Or maybe one or a few aftermarket corner seal height is off from machining🤷♂️
What happen if you run zero end play?
quick question, is it possible to run a TII flywheel and clutch with an NA tranmission?
Nope. The diameter of a t2 flywheel won't fit in the NA bell housing
@@RADPotential I was just watching the flywheel video, it also seems like the starter position is different...
sum ting wong?