Maybe that's the difference. I think they're still not supposed to *move* axially, and didn't when they were new, but maybe whatever feature allows them to rotate like that also makes them loosen up under load after a while.
@@imnoexpertbut In my make, you can tap the inner race with a hammer from one side and it will "pop" out, allowing you to move the axis of rotation. After you are done setting it, you can tap it from the other side. I think after some time it can happen that it goes into this other mode, can you try it with yours? It is quite fiddly until you get the technique down :P Check this out ruclips.net/video/1jG52W5U_Cs/видео.html
I think a single sacrificial tr8 bronze nut can be cut on two pieces - the one that does an actual preload and a counternut. Same setup for other side of the bearing.
@@imnoexpertbut I suppose that 'counternut' part should handle it fine without a set screw if it tightened with enough torque to prevent a slip between those components.
@@oleksandrgrytsenko Hah! That's perfect. Even though they hadn't failed yet, I made the same change as in the video to my Z axis bearings, and tried your suggestion. The brass nut didn't stay put by itself, but I was able to add a set screw and that worked great. If I need more in the future I'll probably just buy these openbuilds nuts!
They're too tall to fit underneath the axis carriage plate; I only have 28mm of clearance. If they don't fit under the plate, they would still work, but I would get less axis travel. I could mill out a big pocket between the linear rails, if I had a big mill. :) I could possibly bolt on risers for the linear rails, but that would reduce my Z travel slightly, and might affect rigidity slightly. The low-profile blocks I made were pretty simple, so that was the easiest option.
I ended up using double angular contact bearings, which are similar to tapered roller bearings in application, but from what I understand angular contact bearings tend to be a little more precise (less clamping force required to eliminate backlash).
Thanks for Sharing,
Just thinking that maybe the Blocks
Where not in line and therefore not running
Concentric.
These flange bearings are meant to rotate axially- they do that to compensate for axial misalignment
Maybe that's the difference. I think they're still not supposed to *move* axially, and didn't when they were new, but maybe whatever feature allows them to rotate like that also makes them loosen up under load after a while.
@@imnoexpertbut In my make, you can tap the inner race with a hammer from one side and it will "pop" out, allowing you to move the axis of rotation. After you are done setting it, you can tap it from the other side. I think after some time it can happen that it goes into this other mode, can you try it with yours? It is quite fiddly until you get the technique down :P Check this out ruclips.net/video/1jG52W5U_Cs/видео.html
I think a single sacrificial tr8 bronze nut can be cut on two pieces - the one that does an actual preload and a counternut. Same setup for other side of the bearing.
And then drill them for a set screw? That's a good idea.
@@imnoexpertbut I suppose that 'counternut' part should handle it fine without a set screw if it tightened with enough torque to prevent a slip between those components.
Hey! Now OpenBuilds store actually has a tensioning nut with a set screw :)
openbuildspartstore.com/tension-nut/
@@oleksandrgrytsenko Hah! That's perfect. Even though they hadn't failed yet, I made the same change as in the video to my Z axis bearings, and tried your suggestion. The brass nut didn't stay put by itself, but I was able to add a set screw and that worked great. If I need more in the future I'll probably just buy these openbuilds nuts!
Very nice videos 😊👍 Why don' you use BK12 and BF12 type supports?. They're very inexpensive.
They're too tall to fit underneath the axis carriage plate; I only have 28mm of clearance. If they don't fit under the plate, they would still work, but I would get less axis travel. I could mill out a big pocket between the linear rails, if I had a big mill. :) I could possibly bolt on risers for the linear rails, but that would reduce my Z travel slightly, and might affect rigidity slightly. The low-profile blocks I made were pretty simple, so that was the easiest option.
@@imnoexpertbut I had to add shims on mine. I have no tools. I printed them in plastic :) Using some playwood and dreaming of aluminium.😊
couldn't use tapered rollbearings instead ?
I ended up using double angular contact bearings, which are similar to tapered roller bearings in application, but from what I understand angular contact bearings tend to be a little more precise (less clamping force required to eliminate backlash).