Take the 3d printed cab and make it a mould for resin and then use iron filings in the resin to make the cab heavy. So the same for the new buffers and boiler plastic and it should make it add a lot of mass.
Very enjoyable update and I'm glad the cab drawings helped 🙂 That stay-alive is hugely impressive, as you say. Having watched you squeeze one into this pug makes me wonder if I can get these into a Hornby Ruston 48, Peckett W4 and Hattons Andrew Barclay 🤔 By the way, the plate covering the cabside window opening is something I have seen in photos so not totally unrealistic on the original model I don't think, I've even seen wooden boards added in that position. However, your cab is a lot better looking and allows the lovely cab details to be seen, maybe more realistic for the exact loco you're modelling? The dumb buffers are indeed wooden blocks, at least the examples I've seen were 👍 Excellent work on this, Rob - you could make an income offering 3D printed cab details as an upgrade kit, I'm sure 😉 put me down for three, please
only just found your channel Thursday after watching part 1 of this, then mere days after subscribing, out comes part 2! A word on liquid gravity, I couldn't find out what metal it is but the metal itself as far as I can tell is already not as dense as lead, in addition the fact that its spheres makes the whole volume filled much less dense as Spheres have an extremely poor packing efficiency, for these reasons I would always use lead (while wearing gloves)
Tungsten is 1.7x the density of lead, so even including the putty matrix it should add weight more effectively than lead, shouldn't it? The toxicity of lead makes me wary, wearing gloves to put it in is a good plan but the risk of accidental exposure afterwards is concerning.
in that case Tungsten is far far better, as to the exposure, each to his own, its not uranium but it can do harm, I have a great great grand aunt who died as a result of lead makeup
The thought occured to me, why not print or castthe body in white metal or its print equivalent. Or use the, or a Dapol kit to make moulds,, andthen cold cast.
Did you ever finish this project? As I have a Hornby pug that I'd like to do the same too. If you'd be willing to share the motor mount CAD file I'd love to give it a try. Thanks.
Nice work. Thanks for the idea of using Tungsten mud (that's what fishermen out here in Australia call it.) Are you planning on releasing the STL's or selling actual cab parts? If so put me on your mailing list 😊
Still in the pipeline. I was trying to track down people from the original development team. Haven't been very successful, but Simon Kohler has said he'll talk to me about it. I've got all the kit and would like to get it working too.
@@LittleWicketRailway I also have all the kit Phase 1 to 3, accessory modules and hand held slave units, locos and turntables with modules in, all brand new condition, got back into model railways a year and a half ago after 25 plus years away.
If you missed part 1 then check it out here: ruclips.net/video/Lk2XQdFbV_k/видео.html
Very tidy
Take the 3d printed cab and make it a mould for resin and then use iron filings in the resin to make the cab heavy. So the same for the new buffers and boiler plastic and it should make it add a lot of mass.
Great. Look forward to part 3.
Maybe you can fit some putty below the roof of the cabin?
Impressive punch, that little stay alive packs😍
It will be interesting to see how you get on with Weathering ;)
Hi Rob, I'm sure you have lots on, but when is part 3 of this series. Thanks Chris
Very enjoyable update and I'm glad the cab drawings helped 🙂
That stay-alive is hugely impressive, as you say. Having watched you squeeze one into this pug makes me wonder if I can get these into a Hornby Ruston 48, Peckett W4 and Hattons Andrew Barclay 🤔
By the way, the plate covering the cabside window opening is something I have seen in photos so not totally unrealistic on the original model I don't think, I've even seen wooden boards added in that position. However, your cab is a lot better looking and allows the lovely cab details to be seen, maybe more realistic for the exact loco you're modelling? The dumb buffers are indeed wooden blocks, at least the examples I've seen were 👍
Excellent work on this, Rob - you could make an income offering 3D printed cab details as an upgrade kit, I'm sure 😉 put me down for three, please
Been waiting for this 👍
Cast the cab detail in white metal?? Do you sell kits for a conversion like this?? Great job by the way...
Could you make the crew figures out of lead or somethong heavy to help with weight? Just a thought. Loving the vids
Thanks Peter. A metal crew might help. Open to all suggestions.
you could look into getting four metal buffers instead of 3d print to add more weight.
Good idea! Light Railway Stores sell packs of four white metal dumb buffers iirc...
Easier said than done, providing that one has a 3-D printer!
only just found your channel Thursday after watching part 1 of this, then mere days after subscribing, out comes part 2!
A word on liquid gravity, I couldn't find out what metal it is but the metal itself as far as I can tell is already not as dense as lead, in addition the fact that its spheres makes the whole volume filled much less dense as Spheres have an extremely poor packing efficiency, for these reasons I would always use lead (while wearing gloves)
Tungsten is 1.7x the density of lead, so even including the putty matrix it should add weight more effectively than lead, shouldn't it? The toxicity of lead makes me wary, wearing gloves to put it in is a good plan but the risk of accidental exposure afterwards is concerning.
in that case Tungsten is far far better, as to the exposure, each to his own, its not uranium but it can do harm, I have a great great grand aunt who died as a result of lead makeup
Any progress on the project after a year?
The thought occured to me, why not print or castthe body in white metal or its print equivalent. Or use the, or a Dapol kit to make moulds,, andthen cold cast.
Did you ever finish this project? As I have a Hornby pug that I'd like to do the same too. If you'd be willing to share the motor mount CAD file I'd love to give it a try. Thanks.
I was wondering if you could provide a link for the stay alive?
Hi John, here's a link to Digitrains
www.digitrains.co.uk/shop-by-brand/lais-dcc/stay-alives/stay-alive-square.html
Thanks for watching
Nice work. Thanks for the idea of using Tungsten mud (that's what fishermen out here in Australia call it.)
Are you planning on releasing the STL's or selling actual cab parts? If so put me on your mailing list 😊
Am I missing something? I can't find part 3....
Hi Rob, this is a very informative video, great content, what happened to the video you were going to do on the Hornby Zero 1?
Still in the pipeline. I was trying to track down people from the original development team. Haven't been very successful, but Simon Kohler has said he'll talk to me about it. I've got all the kit and would like to get it working too.
@@LittleWicketRailway I also have all the kit Phase 1 to 3, accessory modules and hand held slave units, locos and turntables with modules in, all brand new condition, got back into model railways a year and a half ago after 25 plus years away.
This is excellent mate, defo need you to print me some parts for mine please
Definitely. I'd love to see if you could add lights and sound too.
Late comment but I have and Idea. Pull out all the liquid gravity and fit it where the liquid gravity sits
Replace with tungsten putty
💔 'PromoSM'