i liked watching you build the anchor. if you could leave that part in for future climbs that would be sweet. gives me an idea of what a pro would do in that given situation.
Nice commentary at the end. Having done Three Pines recently, The Dangler has been on my shortlist since. I agree with the romantic notions of what a route really is but these esoteric alternatives are definitely worth exploring. Well said and well climbed.
I’m getting into climbing, since I’m surrounded by the alps (live in Salzburg now since over two years) and usually hiked. On a side note: Since we never see him, I imagine the video maker looks like some type of Al bundy but super fit, just judging by his voice and the stressed sounds he does sometimes I just can’t put a face on this man voice, but I do enjoy his skill level so much, the voice and the way it’s being filmed. Thank you for this cool stuff!
Go have a look at the ‘direct finish’ straight up after the crux of *_”Modern Times”_* Thin gear then large cam & bush(escape Rt bombay/slot 5.7) From bush at base of shallow corners {a well protected long reach; go up white cap stone w/clean streak thru lichen}Good holds & gear where you need👉😳🗿🫣vertical exposure😄& another ‘out-there’ climb at a ‘sane’ grade is “Traverse of the Clods”
I think a lot of people don't realize what daisy are really for....keeping from dropping things while aid climbing. each pocket is far far weaker than everything else in the system (which are usually 20-25kn). I must admit I've used them for hooking into belay, but I've ditched them now for simplicity and so that partners don't use them. Your big danger using that is leading onto next pitch and having someone fall before putting in piece (probably not the case here). the end of chain should be full strength, but do you really want to test a series of shock loads onto anchor. nothing beats using good piece of 10mm nylon (aka the lead rope) or something like quad anchor or kong slyde or petzl's version. cordlette works too, but I found too time consuming stowing it away every time.
@@allanchong4772 The real problem is that he's only tied into the anchor with a single piece of static webbing, which can break well below MBS if shockloaded without dynamic rope in the system. Break a daisy loop, shock load the chain, and there'll be no one tied to the anchor anymore to belay the second up. Clove hitch is faster and much safer, so I don't get why somebody would insist on using the wrong piece of gear for the job.
@@peterpwn9558 don't get me started on dyneema....you're losing a lot with age and a lot with knots/bends and you're maxing force with static shock. there haven't been a lot of accidents, but i'm convinced that belay loads are generally light as long as there is one piece in. even so, I started using real nylon dynamic cord for all anchor things a few years ago. use the rope when possible. but almost every climbing video on youtube, I see generally sketchy stuff. 6 pitches up the freeblast, watched (IRL) a guy clip a single dogleg quickdraw to 1 of the anchor bolts and his belay loop and put his partner on belay. Andy Kirkpatrick's multipitch climbing site has an enormous amount of really good belay options. I agree with almost everything he says after 40yrs in the game. I got away with a lot of crap, and came to his same conclusions over the decades.
I remember when this was considered 5.8+ after Kevin Bein did the FA. But Kansas City is really the 'Separate Reality' of the Gunks. Or maybe 'Stannard's Roof' at Lost City. Cool video.
I climbed "Kansas City" (didn't send) about 2 months after I posted this video and it occurred to me then that it may be a better fit for "Separate Reality of the Gunks". That said, IMO, "The Dangler" is much more well known and popular then "Kansas City" and especially considering the photo op "The Dangler" presents (much like "Separate Reality" itself), I think the analogy in the title still holds true.
i liked watching you build the anchor. if you could leave that part in for future climbs that would be sweet. gives me an idea of what a pro would do in that given situation.
Nice commentary at the end. Having done Three Pines recently, The Dangler has been on my shortlist since. I agree with the romantic notions of what a route really is but these esoteric alternatives are definitely worth exploring. Well said and well climbed.
I enjoyed the commentary and anchor building!
I’m getting into climbing, since I’m surrounded by the alps (live in Salzburg now since over two years) and usually hiked.
On a side note: Since we never see him, I imagine the video maker looks like some type of Al bundy but super fit, just judging by his voice and the stressed sounds he does sometimes
I just can’t put a face on this man voice, but I do enjoy his skill level so much, the voice and the way it’s being filmed. Thank you for this cool stuff!
Wow, that guy following is really handsome! XD What a great experience on this climb!
Love your channel, never climbed the Gunks but you sure makes me want it. This video was done very well keep it up!
Best Non Ice Climbing Channel on RUclips! You'd be great at Ice, your ability to hold is unreal!
Thanks Man. Ice is fun. Have done it a couple times but nothing to serious.
@@FirstPersonBeta Ha, We can introduce you to the screeming barfies!
Im glad you didnt use the girth hitched dyneema as the one leg.
Beautiful climbing !
Go have a look at the ‘direct finish’ straight up after the crux of
*_”Modern Times”_*
Thin gear then large cam & bush(escape Rt bombay/slot 5.7)
From bush at base of shallow corners {a well protected long reach; go up white cap stone w/clean streak thru lichen}Good holds & gear where you need👉😳🗿🫣vertical exposure😄& another ‘out-there’ climb at a ‘sane’ grade is “Traverse of the Clods”
The best 10ft of climbing in the Gunks!
Thanks as always, Seth. So appreciate your content and wisdom. HMU when you need them Katanas resoled again!
“Best 10 ft of climbing in the gunks” - some old guy climbing 3 pines while I was building an anchor 😂
Got pumped from watching this
Amazing. Like the content and the commentary.
Nice to see you back at the Gunks! Any chance you'd ever swing by Ragged Mountain?
Get tradical at ragged!
Spends 4 minutes building the most convoluted, bomber anchor, proceeds to clip himself into it with a daisychain that's only rated to 3,5KN.
But will catch the guy following!
I think a lot of people don't realize what daisy are really for....keeping from dropping things while aid climbing. each pocket is far far weaker than everything else in the system (which are usually 20-25kn). I must admit I've used them for hooking into belay, but I've ditched them now for simplicity and so that partners don't use them. Your big danger using that is leading onto next pitch and having someone fall before putting in piece (probably not the case here). the end of chain should be full strength, but do you really want to test a series of shock loads onto anchor.
nothing beats using good piece of 10mm nylon (aka the lead rope) or something like quad anchor or kong slyde or petzl's version. cordlette works too, but I found too time consuming stowing it away every time.
@@allanchong4772 The real problem is that he's only tied into the anchor with a single piece of static webbing, which can break well below MBS if shockloaded without dynamic rope in the system. Break a daisy loop, shock load the chain, and there'll be no one tied to the anchor anymore to belay the second up. Clove hitch is faster and much safer, so I don't get why somebody would insist on using the wrong piece of gear for the job.
@@FirstPersonBeta Your second will still need a belayer at the top.
@@peterpwn9558 don't get me started on dyneema....you're losing a lot with age and a lot with knots/bends and you're maxing force with static shock. there haven't been a lot of accidents, but i'm convinced that belay loads are generally light as long as there is one piece in. even so, I started using real nylon dynamic cord for all anchor things a few years ago. use the rope when possible.
but almost every climbing video on youtube, I see generally sketchy stuff. 6 pitches up the freeblast, watched (IRL) a guy clip a single dogleg quickdraw to 1 of the anchor bolts and his belay loop and put his partner on belay.
Andy Kirkpatrick's multipitch climbing site has an enormous amount of really good belay options. I agree with almost everything he says after 40yrs in the game. I got away with a lot of crap, and came to his same conclusions over the decades.
Хорошая работа!
beautiful place😍😍😍😍😍😍
I remember when this was considered 5.8+ after Kevin Bein did the FA. But Kansas City is really the 'Separate Reality' of the Gunks. Or maybe 'Stannard's Roof' at Lost City. Cool video.
I climbed "Kansas City" (didn't send) about 2 months after I posted this video and it occurred to me then that it may be a better fit for "Separate Reality of the Gunks". That said, IMO, "The Dangler" is much more well known and popular then "Kansas City" and especially considering the photo op "The Dangler" presents (much like "Separate Reality" itself), I think the analogy in the title still holds true.
I want to see Ape Call
Buszzzzzzco
Lol