Get a code tester like the Actron CP9690. It checks live, record, graphing, oxygen sensor test, oil light reset, ABS, and MORE! It comes in a black pouch. It has OBD I cables for Ford G.M, Chrysler, and 2 Toyota. A code 111 on Ford is a pass code. Code 222 is 3 quick flashes. There is a separator code 111. If you get vacuum at the EGR at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve. If you get oxygen sensor running rich and lean codes, replace the MAP sensor. Rich codes can be the CTS or high fuel pressure.
That isn't always accurate. You need a code- tester like a Actron CP9690. It checks codes and has code-connect to diagnose codes. Just because you get a code saying a part don't always mean it's that part. The CP9690 shows the code in print and has code- connect to tell you possible solutions. Otherwise you'll replace un-necessary parts. EBAY has it. It comes in a black pouch. It has a cigarette-lighter cable. It uses 4 aaa batteries, not included. It's well-lit! Get the USB cable to update it.
I totally agree. Just because you get an oxygen sensor code doesn't mean you should replace it, it's likely working fine and telling you that there's a vacuum leak or something wrong with the fuel system. However I do disagree with getting the scan tool. Researching your code, especially on Explorer forums, can be far more valuable than a code reader. Just my experience.
@@HsCSpanky Using wires isn't accurate. You NEED a code tester with code-connect because it tells you the right solution for that code. The tester reads in print the code for that vehicle. Oxygen sensor codes can mean the sensor detects a condition affecting the O2 sensor. On Ford, if you get improper vacuum to the EGR, replace the charcoal canister purge valve. If you get rich oxygen sensor codes, replace the MAP sensor. Check for leaking injectors, etc. Code testers match the code to that vehicle on-screen. I have the CP9690 and Snap-On scanner. If both oxygen sensors say rich, it's the engine is rich. Code testers cost but you have a better idea rather than using a wire. They show the code on the screen. Disconnecting the battery for about 15 minutes erases the memory code. After replacing a part, retest. It's common for new codes to pop up. Run fuel- injection cleaner in the tank to clean injectors etc. Run the engine or better yet drive it to erase unnecessary codes. A thermostat that's opening too soon can cause rich codes. Even a digital Ford code tester is better than a wire. Get a tester with a definition. On some Ford's, it's common to get certain codes, but guys are having a hard time getting rid of those codes. It's like there's a bug in Ford systems that Ford can't get rid of.
you could diagnose the problem yourself too, especially on these older ones a lot of the sensors can be tested with a multi meter. But a good scan tool would be faster probably.
@@fordman7479 The Action CP9690 has code-connect to match symptoms and the cure. Testing sensors takes time and you STILL might mis-diagnose. Plastic parts break. You have to know the specs to test it. You can get both oxygen sensors rich and not know it's the MAP sensor. The EGR can get vacuum at idle and you wouldn't know it's the charcoal canister purge valve. Different cars have different codes. A digital code tester doesn't tell you the correct part like code-connect.
Hey man, thanks for the videos on your 94 explorer. I have a 94 explorer too that I use as my daily driver and it's as loyal as it gets. It's also fun messing around with older engines! I was curious if you think I should preform this test on my truck? I have no check engine light, everything's smooth and great on it. Just wondering if this is something I should do just to check all the bases! Thank you!
To check the transmission fluid, get a fluid pump-Lubrimatic 55-001, a T-30 bit, and a CTA 7420 cone adaptor. On You-Tube, watch vids. how to check and fill the fluid.
A CP9690 can check the codes if the bulb is burnt out. It shows the definitions of codes. OBDI just shows codes. It checks KOEO, KOER, solenoid and relay test, it checks memory codes, and MORE! A Snap-On scanner is better suited for OBDI. It has troubleshooting feature on the menu to diagnose codes. EBAY has both. You need personality keys, manuals, cables, adaptors, a battery clamp cable for the adaptor. Ford OBDI uses a Ford-1B adaptor. It uses a 9 volt square battery. Get a battery pak and wall charger cable to review test results away from the car. See if you can find a case. Ford OBDII uses a K2-A personality key.
Angel Duran I believe that's a splice into the check engine light. So you're connecting the computer output to the check engine light to count the pulses.
Get a code tester like the Actron CP9690. It checks live, record, graphing, oxygen sensor test, oil light reset, ABS, and MORE! It comes in a black pouch. It has OBD I cables for Ford G.M, Chrysler, and 2 Toyota. A code 111 on Ford is a pass code. Code 222 is 3 quick flashes. There is a separator code 111. If you get vacuum at the EGR at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve. If you get oxygen sensor running rich and lean codes, replace the MAP sensor. Rich codes can be the CTS or high fuel pressure.
Very simple and well done, thanks for the video!
Dave L thanks for the comment, I'm glad I can help!
are you kidding
@@buckmaster5552 No.
Holy smokes!! The gas gauge works 🙂
It won't matter if it touches metal. They're reference ground wires
That isn't always accurate. You need a code- tester like a Actron CP9690. It checks codes and has code-connect to diagnose codes. Just because you get a code saying a part don't always mean it's that part. The CP9690 shows the code in print and has code- connect to tell you possible solutions. Otherwise you'll replace un-necessary parts. EBAY has it. It comes in a black pouch. It has a cigarette-lighter cable. It uses 4 aaa batteries, not included. It's well-lit! Get the USB cable to update it.
I totally agree. Just because you get an oxygen sensor code doesn't mean you should replace it, it's likely working fine and telling you that there's a vacuum leak or something wrong with the fuel system. However I do disagree with getting the scan tool. Researching your code, especially on Explorer forums, can be far more valuable than a code reader. Just my experience.
@@HsCSpanky Using wires isn't accurate. You NEED a code tester with code-connect because it tells you the right solution for that code. The tester reads in print the code for that vehicle. Oxygen sensor codes can mean the sensor detects a condition affecting the O2 sensor. On Ford, if you get improper vacuum to the EGR, replace the charcoal canister purge valve. If you get rich oxygen sensor codes, replace the MAP sensor. Check for leaking injectors, etc. Code testers match the code to that vehicle on-screen. I have the CP9690 and Snap-On scanner. If both oxygen sensors say rich, it's the engine is rich. Code testers cost but you have a better idea rather than using a wire. They show the code on the screen. Disconnecting the battery for about 15 minutes erases the memory code. After replacing a part, retest. It's common for new codes to pop up. Run fuel- injection cleaner in the tank to clean injectors etc. Run the engine or better yet drive it to erase unnecessary codes. A thermostat that's opening too soon can cause rich codes. Even a digital Ford code tester is better than a wire. Get a tester with a definition. On some Ford's, it's common to get certain codes, but guys are having a hard time getting rid of those codes. It's like there's a bug in Ford systems that Ford can't get rid of.
you could diagnose the problem yourself too, especially on these older ones a lot of the sensors can be tested with a multi meter. But a good scan tool would be faster probably.
@@fordman7479 The Action CP9690 has code-connect to match symptoms and the cure. Testing sensors takes time and you STILL might mis-diagnose. Plastic parts break. You have to know the specs to test it. You can get both oxygen sensors rich and not know it's the MAP sensor. The EGR can get vacuum at idle and you wouldn't know it's the charcoal canister purge valve. Different cars have different codes. A digital code tester doesn't tell you the correct part like code-connect.
Hey man, thanks for the videos on your 94 explorer. I have a 94 explorer too that I use as my daily driver and it's as loyal as it gets. It's also fun messing around with older engines!
I was curious if you think I should preform this test on my truck? I have no check engine light, everything's smooth and great on it. Just wondering if this is something I should do just to check all the bases!
Thank you!
Wouldn't hurt to learn how and get more familiar with your vehicle. I doubt you'll come back with any codes though.
True, Thanks man! I'll have to give it a go sometime!
To check the transmission fluid, get a fluid pump-Lubrimatic 55-001, a T-30 bit, and a CTA 7420 cone adaptor. On You-Tube, watch vids. how to check and fill the fluid.
A CP9690 can check the codes if the bulb is burnt out. It shows the definitions of codes. OBDI just shows codes. It checks KOEO, KOER, solenoid and relay test, it checks memory codes, and MORE! A Snap-On scanner is better suited for OBDI. It has troubleshooting feature on the menu to diagnose codes. EBAY has both. You need personality keys, manuals, cables, adaptors, a battery clamp cable for the adaptor. Ford OBDI uses a Ford-1B adaptor. It uses a 9 volt square battery. Get a battery pak and wall charger cable to review test results away from the car. See if you can find a case. Ford OBDII uses a K2-A personality key.
Saludos cordiales
What's the little gray box for.
Angel Duran where?
@@HsCSpanky that little gray box that's part of the connector but it's separate. The one with white and purple strips
Angel Duran I believe that's a splice into the check engine light. So you're connecting the computer output to the check engine light to count the pulses.
@@HsCSpanky what if I don't have that little gray box. Does it really matter?
Angel Duran as long as you have the two wires to connect, that's all that matters. When you're done, wrap any exposed contacts with electrical tape.