Hey, interesting video! I love the design and your testing. Would you consider doing an undercut for the channels, so the aluminium is stuck inside. I think while pushing gold inside metals for decoration, this is the way to go. Alec Steel had done similar engravings on damascus steel daggers. I don't know if it would work on wood and how much of an undercut is needed and whether the created edge isn't burning away. Best regards
Thanks Patrick. Appreciate the feedback, definitely some refining needed to perfect it. I’ll have a look at the Alex Steele stuff, I’m regularly dipping in and out of his content but must have missed that one. If you’re interested I have some more ‘maker’ projects on a second channel youtube.com/@Neily_Makes. Thanks again
im interested in melting lead and aluminum etc... what should iget first? i dont want to get crap that only works a few times but i would have to get this and that over time. so what would i buy and expect to spend?
Dude try pouring one leg at a time trying to chase all of the legs in Port all in that quickly did you see where it’s not working out well for you so again for one leg at a time let it cool you’ll have a lot more control over it and then do each leg separately you’ll have better control it’ll work a lot better good luck
I wonder if you used a dovetail bit in the router, would it create an undercut for the aluminium? Also, mix some lead into the aluminium. It will lower the melting temperature considerably (less than 200c) and leave less char
What type of aluminum were you using? The difference in how aluminum scrap from cans and pipes or such flows compared to a specific alloy for casting in massive. A356 is truly wondrous. Also, when you pour and get the skin on the outside? That's aluminum oxide. Try to pour through that without breaking it for a much cleaner and stronger finish.
I think the way aluminum contracts when cooling will always prevent it from bonding. Undercutting the channels with a dovetail bit will help some,; but I bet you'll still have gaps. You can also drive some screws into the wood so the heads are below the finished surface to give the aluminum some "anchors".
Metal and wood never chemically bond so you need use geometry to lock it in place. Using say dovetail groove gives the mechanical locking in some extent and as mentioned screws can work as anchors to tie it down. Problem is dept of cut in peace like this, but its possible to achieve just need smaller screws. Water helps to prevent burning, but it also create steam that can be dangerous well as cause bubbling. One strip of such narrow channel needs to be casted at the time since aluminum will solidify and create oxide layer real fast in situation like that.
Thanks. Good idea, I was thinking that drying out the wood would help a bit (reducing any steam created). I tried to use the blow torch in the 3rd trial but I think I was fighting a loosing battle due to the contraction of the Al and how much it burns the wood.
@@MetallurgyData how high can wood hold temperature before it undergoes decomposition from burning? Do you if there are chem treatments/baths which could increase such temps, or assist in bonding?
I think it would be fine large scale live edge tables , fine work ,not so much , you could embed, soft stones into it like, golden Micah, some types of crystal are soft like selenite,
Interesting idea. "It took a little more trial and error than expected" lol, I know the feeling. I personally liked the way it looked before charring at the end, but to each his own. Glad you posted the trials as well.
Very nice work!
“I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work" - Thomas Edison 😂
"aluminum would just solidify from the surface and not fill from the base" similar fundamentals to Tesla needing a 6000 tonne casting press?
Try using tin or pewter. At least it will not catch the woods on 🔥
Is it possible to use molten copper, or will the temperature be too hot?
This is not an attractive result.
Hey, interesting video! I love the design and your testing. Would you consider doing an undercut for the channels, so the aluminium is stuck inside. I think while pushing gold inside metals for decoration, this is the way to go. Alec Steel had done similar engravings on damascus steel daggers. I don't know if it would work on wood and how much of an undercut is needed and whether the created edge isn't burning away.
Best regards
Thanks Patrick. Appreciate the feedback, definitely some refining needed to perfect it. I’ll have a look at the Alex Steele stuff, I’m regularly dipping in and out of his content but must have missed that one. If you’re interested I have some more ‘maker’ projects on a second channel youtube.com/@Neily_Makes. Thanks again
im interested in melting lead and aluminum etc... what should iget first? i dont want to get crap that only works a few times but i would have to get this and that over time. so what would i buy and expect to spend?
Dove tail your channels.
Dude try pouring one leg at a time trying to chase all of the legs in Port all in that quickly did you see where it’s not working out well for you so again for one leg at a time let it cool you’ll have a lot more control over it and then do each leg separately you’ll have better control it’ll work a lot better good luck
I wonder if you used a dovetail bit in the router, would it create an undercut for the aluminium?
Also, mix some lead into the aluminium. It will lower the melting temperature considerably (less than 200c) and leave less char
thats a NO!
What type of aluminum were you using? The difference in how aluminum scrap from cans and pipes or such flows compared to a specific alloy for casting in massive. A356 is truly wondrous.
Also, when you pour and get the skin on the outside? That's aluminum oxide. Try to pour through that without breaking it for a much cleaner and stronger finish.
I think the way aluminum contracts when cooling will always prevent it from bonding. Undercutting the channels with a dovetail bit will help some,; but I bet you'll still have gaps. You can also drive some screws into the wood so the heads are below the finished surface to give the aluminum some "anchors".
Metal and wood never chemically bond so you need use geometry to lock it in place. Using say dovetail groove gives the mechanical locking in some extent and as mentioned screws can work as anchors to tie it down. Problem is dept of cut in peace like this, but its possible to achieve just need smaller screws. Water helps to prevent burning, but it also create steam that can be dangerous well as cause bubbling. One strip of such narrow channel needs to be casted at the time since aluminum will solidify and create oxide layer real fast in situation like that.
Cool vid; I wonder if putting the wood in an oven first might assist bonding the Al?
Thanks. Good idea, I was thinking that drying out the wood would help a bit (reducing any steam created). I tried to use the blow torch in the 3rd trial but I think I was fighting a loosing battle due to the contraction of the Al and how much it burns the wood.
@@MetallurgyData how high can wood hold temperature before it undergoes decomposition from burning?
Do you if there are chem treatments/baths which could increase such temps, or assist in bonding?
Spectacular! Seems very difficult, but I love the end result
I think it would be fine large scale live edge tables , fine work ,not so much , you could embed, soft stones into it like, golden Micah, some types of crystal are soft like selenite,
I think your better off torching your grooves and inlaying wire. Cool project though. I also wondered how tricky this would be.
Interesting idea. "It took a little more trial and error than expected" lol, I know the feeling. I personally liked the way it looked before charring at the end, but to each his own. Glad you posted the trials as well.
Lol show the part where you broke out the fire extinguisher my bro! Great video and cheers!