I use a 3/8" Forstner bit and drill a hole about 1/4-3/8 deep( depending on the thickness of the piece I'm working with...the depth can be any depth you choose)). Then I use the right size drill bit for the size screw I'm using and finish drilling through the wood. I screw the screw into the hole and into the other piece. I then use a 3/8 plug cutter and cut plugs out of the same wood that I'm working with ( I think that those little dowels used in this video do not come in different kinds of wood such as Cedar or Oak, etc., and they will not match the grain of the wood being used ). I take a piece of the same kind of wood that I'm using and make a strip just a little thicker than the depth of the Forstner hole after putting in the screws, cut the plugs, glue them into the holes, let dry a few minutes and for me, I use my random orbit sander and sand the plugs flush with the wood surface. I can quite often match the grain of the plug so closely with the grain of the wood that after sanding, the plug all but disappears from view. Even when the plug doesn't match up with the grain lines, it still looks good and has a nice contrast.
I'm working on a project where I'm using dowels in mdf but don't have enough clamps for the glue up, so I'm planning on using screws as terrible little makeshift clamps.
there is better way strip the surface and work under the stripped wood then cover it again. this way you can cover the screw with original material which will look like nothing has ahppened
Much more uniform when staining.. I agree with you. Countersinking is a good method but for finishing, nothing better than original surfaces and grains
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I use a 3/8" Forstner bit and drill a hole about 1/4-3/8 deep( depending on the thickness of the piece I'm working with...the depth can be any depth you choose)). Then I use the right size drill bit for the size screw I'm using and finish drilling through the wood. I screw the screw into the hole and into the other piece. I then use a 3/8 plug cutter and cut plugs out of the same wood that I'm working with ( I think that those little dowels used in this video do not come in different kinds of wood such as Cedar or Oak, etc., and they will not match the grain of the wood being used ). I take a piece of the same kind of wood that I'm using and make a strip just a little thicker than the depth of the Forstner hole after putting in the screws, cut the plugs, glue them into the holes, let dry a few minutes and for me, I use my random orbit sander and sand the plugs flush with the wood surface. I can quite often match the grain of the plug so closely with the grain of the wood that after sanding, the plug all but disappears from view. Even when the plug doesn't match up with the grain lines, it still looks good and has a nice contrast.
Nice
You should make a video of this!
Hi, good job. Where i can by this tool?
Good job
Thankyou!
what kind of drill bit are you using and what size? thanks nice job!
tks! i use a drill with 3mm for screw and 8mm for tenon,
I wanted to know too
@@CAT.Creative You ever gonna disclose what kinda bit that is?
If you're going to use a dowel to plug the hole, why not just make your joint with the dowel and skip the screw?
I'm working on a project where I'm using dowels in mdf but don't have enough clamps for the glue up, so I'm planning on using screws as terrible little makeshift clamps.
What kind of bit is that?
Wood plug cutter.
there is better way strip the surface and work under the stripped wood then cover it again. this way you can cover the screw with original material which will look like nothing has ahppened
Much more uniform when staining.. I agree with you. Countersinking is a good method but for finishing, nothing better than original surfaces and grains
You caught the wood with the saw.
Apparently it has never dawned on the creators of these videos that someone might be trying to cover screws on wood which is only 1/2 inch thick 🙄....