Hi....I live in a log home and it was time for a re-stain. I had a sand blaster company come in and blast the old stain off. Then there were a few areas that had rot. I cleaned them out like you did on your deck and then I used automotive Bondo simply because i never knew wood bondo existed at that time. I put the mixed Bondo in plastic ziplock bags and cut the tip out of one of the corners and filled the open holes in my logs like a icing bag. Worked well and if it hardened up before i got it out it was easy to just get rid of the bag and no mess. I did not have to use much of a trowel or spreader as I was sandng with a orbital sander. After i sanded the logs it matched perfectly to the sand blasted logs and the best part was it took the color of the newly applied log stain and was hard to tell it was repaired.
I’ve done this a lot of times. If you use a multi tool to clean out the moist dry rot and use the liquid Rot Stop you will end up with a longer lasting repair. If the hole is all the way through, use the multi tool to create a place for new wood or install a mesh screen to hold the Bondo. Make sure to use the dry rot killer before the Bondo. You can also use a good deck primer after the rot killer.
A specific "rot killer" isn't necessary if you remove all the existing rot. I also dry the cavity completely with a heat gun which kills any remaining bacteria or algae and leaves dry fibers for the BONDO to cling to. I have repairs to Victorian scroll work that were done twenty years ago and they have never peeled or failed.
I know this an older video. I'm building a deck and this video caught my eye. I didn't know bacteria was a thing in a knot hole, that it would keep deteriorating. Great tip. The bondo is another great tip. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Scott, you're a superior instructor. No one's videos are as worthwhile as yours. Yours are the only ones anyone needs to watch for tutelage on home repairs.
I used PC Woody 2 part wood epoxy with very good results on my old outdoor deck last year. I removed the dry rot and let it dry thoroughly before I painted on several coats of wood hardener. I let the hardener dry thoroughly, before I filled with epoxy. My deck has a solid color stain so I finished with a coat of stain which blends it all in. The epoxy is holding up very well in a harsh climate even with constant wet weather and freeze, thaw cycles this Winter.
Good to hear, this is what I am doing also - applying the wood hardener first and then the epoxy. Hoping to extend the life of my deck a few more years before replacing. Winter's can be really harsh here in NH on decks. This video also was very helpful.
My experience with Bondo: 1) Mix small batches, smaller than you think you need. For most cases, I would say no ,ore than a glop about 1" in diameter at a time. For larger holes, repeat as necessary as opposed to making a bigger batch. 2) Be conservative with the hardener. The more that you add, the quicker it will set. Adding less will provide more open (workable) time, but it will take a bit longer to cure. With some practice, you will figure out what works for you. 3) Once the Bondo gets a bit gummy, it is usually too late and unworkable. 4) Always work in in well ventilated space; the fumes are really bad. Bondo is great stuff, but it does take some practice to make it work well.
Thank you for this! We have a small hole, sort of a splintered off spot on the side of one board in the middle of our deck from our movers and I was afraid we were going to have to replace the whole board. It’s also on the edge of the board so thank you so much for the tip on contouring with tape! I feel much more confident on fixing this now. This is the first time I’ve ever took on a project like this on my own. Restoring the entire thing and it was a bit daunting at first.
Wearing gloves, I knead a mixture of saw dust and PL Premium in a disposable tray. I mix in enough saw dust so it is not super sticky to my gloves I can even shape it to make the end of a board for example. You have plenty of working time to use it. At least 30 minutes. It appears to be harder than wood and it has not rotted even after a couple of years of exposure when I applied it on my deck. One 10 oz tube of PL will make a lot of this putty like material.
I have used this and I still use it. I filled minor natural wood cracks to prepare my new picnic table for stain and clear coat. My table is 10' long using (5) 2" X 12" boards. I have not had a problem with knot hole filling but I have saw 'aged' shrinkage of material in cracks I filled, requiring another spread to fill them cracks. I do like it and will continue to use it, but, remember, it's not bullet proof. Also, as I see the morning dew beading on top of my finished filler, I now wonder how it handles the stain. They state on the can that it does well with stain, but, we will see. Great video man!
I've used wood filler inside of Kitchen cupboards that the previous owner had drilled holes in the shelves (?) Light sanding then white paint. Now when visitors are looking for a glass or cup they can't see the damaged areas. I put tape under the cabinet to hold the filler until dry, then removed it.
Mate I like the cost-effectiveness of this, but I experienced terrible "shrinkage" problems with the fill🥲. Roughly what ratio are you getting good result with, please?
Fantastic product. I used it on a couple of outdoor door jambs and worked great. I used much less hardening paste though and gave lot of time to work with. Great video. Thank you for sharing
Timely video. Today I’m going to use Bondo wood rot repair, then the Bondo wood filler on a few areas of my shed tongue and groove siding boards. I’m only going to mix very small batches and use less hardener. Wish me luck! Update: for my project , this dries too quickly. I hate sanding! Nextime I’ll use something that allows me to work at smoothing it out before drying.
I use automotive bondo for dry rot and plugging knots. I have a mailman that wears spikes on his shoes in winter, grrrr! what I find handy is using playing cards to apply the product to the required areas. No clean up just throw them away!
THANK YOU , I am doing this now. Going to harden the rotten wood with wood petrifier and then fill with minwax appoxy. and then paint with Cabot Deck Over to save the old wood. wish me luck.
The Bondo, and other polyester wood fillers don't extend project time, but in most cases I've used epoxy wood fillers. They have performed a bit better over time, for my projects.
Good tips and thanks for sharing. I am repairing a few rotted parts and filling a few bolt holes from the old gazebo that was taken down. I will put wood hardener first over the rotted wood and then do this. Thanks for showing. I have used Bondo on my countertop before I did a 2part epoxy finish - great stuff.
Kudos, Scott, that you show how to first try to repair and not replace! I've had good results on my deck with Bondo and Durham's water putty. Durham's is a lot easier to mix up, more working time, and doesn't have the chemical smell. Cheaper too, so I would try that first. Neither one takes stain well so be prepared for a visible patch. But it's a deck. I also have a box of System3 RotFix that I plan to use on a rotting window sill under a set of expensive wood casement windows that weren't properly flashed. Looks like a good product, epoxy -based. I've not used it yet but it might be another option.
@@cynthiayee5116 Plastic repair material in powder form. Will not shrink, stays put. Use to repair walls, furniture, woodwork or plaster Clean with water while still soft, sand or chip off after dry. Interior/exterior use
re: "wood hardener" liquid products that you brush on before patching. It's a stabilizer and, in my experience, don't expect it to harden any soft / decaying wood.
Nice one Scott. One of my outdoor beams has some dry rot and I've been using plain old Bondo for years. Come summer I'm using your method. Seems like it will work better.. VERY useful video. Thanks a bunch!
I hadn't thought of the Bondo wood filler. I've found out that the general purpose Bondo is not the best way to go. With the wood contracting and expanding the GP Bondo will a lot of times eventually come out.
Automotive BONDO does not contract and expand very much at all...it is the wood that expands and contracts. The wood expands and contracts due to moisture, rather than temperature. You can prevent movement of the wood by insuring that it is sealed on ALL sides with a good paint or stain.
Gorilla wood filler...doing a freshly installed deck, but wood has a lotta knots, so gonna treat them all, the deck needs to cure till NEXT spring before it gets painted, so I hope it all goes good, couldnt afford really nice deck boards, so gonna do what I gotta do! Thank you for the how to, sorta same as what I thought, but double checking myself, I'll be 70 in July, have done a ton of decks thru the years, and lumber quality this time on fixed income, deck is 64'x24.5' Not a little project to pull up and replace all my decking, redo stringers, steps that span a 16' drop to ground...not an easy deal...and my lumber supplier had wood that had SO MANY KNOTS, geez...but doing what I can with what I have!
Shortly, I will be trying my hand at repairing my wood decking, and will be using your video as a tutorial. One question though. Can you advise on the best way to clean a plastic putty knife after use?
A have a similar sized hole on a rounded wood floor board. I was going to use loctite with their expandable material but now that I see this wood filler, I think I'll try this first. Hopefully it will stand against summer heat
Nice. Working on mine now and found this very helpful. I have exterior wood filler and was wondering how well it would work and also the different apps. for it in this project.
I'm not a pro by no means but I seen what I call rookie mistake. Ever seen clear coats where you see the filler smudges around nail holes. It's cuz people don't apply the first coat of sealer first then fill the nail holes/cracks. The filler gets in the grain and keeps the coating from soaking into the wood. Especially bad with like the old wood you are dealing with in the video. I bet anything there was a big wood filler blotch there around the repair. My suggestion do a light sand brush the coating on around where you are fixing then Bondo if you don't want to wait until after first coat. I usually take it a little further and run some painters tape along the edges of the crack I'm filling to make sure the filler stays in the imperfection and not in the grain. But never before a first coat. Just my technique. Couldn't help but add my 2 cents I was cringing the whole time with the wide dried out grain that was getting filled with bondo.
Hi, On the 3M Bondo website, some users have pictures of this stuff not taking stain. Their experts replied that it doesn't look the same as wood after you stain it. Did you stain it, and how did it come out?? I dont want splotchy results.
That’s fantastic. I have done a good amount of deck repair over the last few years. My go to was pc woody (pc products) but the set time is lengthy. I am Thinking about bondo given the extra strength and quick set times so I can cover more quicker. How does this bondo stack up compared to tue pc woody for example?
Can someone provide details on how to add color to Bondo Wood Filler to match my deck? I plan to waterproof the deck - will not paint/stain my deck - so mixing up the Bondo Wood Filler with color to match my wood is the goal. I know it won't be a perfect match. But have already applied the Bondo Wood Filler to some areas as a test, and the color difference between the bondo and deck is huge and ugly looking - can clearly see the patched areas. Thanks, Matt
I also have a deck that is about 2 years old and we stained it 2 years ago and I have a lot of imperfections. Lots of boards with tons of lines and cracks. I guess it was a bad year for the lumber Would you suggest that product for my situation? I also live in a country that is extremely hot and extremely cold. What are your thoughts? My deck looks like it's 30 years old. Not cool
I would have used Minwax Wood Hardener prior to filling it up with bondo. I only use Minwax products. No! Not affiliated with the company in any way, shape or form.
Compared to Bondo, Durham's is much less expensive, easier to apply smoothly, and gives you more time to work with it. However, Durham's is resistant to staining and is better suited for painting.
Can i use this to fill in screw holes on my decking? I messed up and had to adjust the rim joist so all the boards that were screwed into it need to be moved slightly
What is the specific product you used to fill? I have used A specific outdoor wood filler but it’s still shrunk. Does that shrink at all I live in the Midwest with a lot of rain and snow
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes to a degree. Try to stain it. Most times it looks like a solid color. You can blend it with skills. I have done it multiple times.
How long do you recommend I wait for using this on a new deck to fill in some knots and some saw gouges left by the builder during construction. We are in Georgia, so it’s hot and the PT wood should dry pretty fast. what are your thoughts. Thanks, great video and channel!
For a difference between the carbondo and this wood Bondo because I've experienced and filled wood holes with carbondo and over the years in New England weather what expands and contracts and the repair works its way out does this Bondo wood product expand and contract with the wood or is it just like the auto Bondo ....what's the difference??¿
Car Bondo is red or pink and use this on painted decks ...this wood Bondo is yellowish Brown and use this product on non-painted decks... can't tell you about staining or absorption of sealant or long-term effects of products . Wood Bondo is just as hard as the car Bondo.... is that just the only difference ? because I know ,I've worked with both and I've never went back to see if either product came out and no one's ever bitched ,Sooooooo?????????
What happens if you don't use the hardener at all? I don't want the time crunch involved with the product hardening so quickly. Will it harden over say a 24 hour period?
It will never cure(harden). It is a two part product A+B. If you use just one part you are not using the complete product. Generally people use too much hardener. If you too small amount of hardener may take an hour or more but it will eventually harden.
Bondo works well indoors but using Bondo outdoors With the weather from dry to wet the wood will expands and contracts And causing the bongo to eventually crack the best thing to use is flexible wood Two-part epoxy Especially if you’re just going to paint over the repair
Looks like would easier to work if more water added to the mix, its would be more creamy paste.. Then before its completely dry can use sponge to polish.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yeah its probably best to do it right about 1-3 months in but for us we haven't been able to go back down there for a while so probably going to have to just treat it as soon as we can. Also why patch up the knots in the first place? sometimes I think they look cool, the bondo doesn't look as good in certain situations to me
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi....I live in a log home and it was time for a re-stain. I had a sand blaster company come in and blast the old stain off. Then there were a few areas that had rot. I cleaned them out like you did on your deck and then I used automotive Bondo simply because i never knew wood bondo existed at that time. I put the mixed Bondo in plastic ziplock bags and cut the tip out of one of the corners and filled the open holes in my logs like a icing bag. Worked well and if it hardened up before i got it out it was easy to just get rid of the bag and no mess. I did not have to use much of a trowel or spreader as I was sandng with a orbital sander. After i sanded the logs it matched perfectly to the sand blasted logs and the best part was it took the color of the newly applied log stain and was hard to tell it was repaired.
like the zip lock bag trick thanks
I forgot wood bondo exist too sometimes. My brain goes straight to automotive bondo
Did it hold up ?
@@alessandrocerciello1627 Yes it did......very happy
I’ve done this a lot of times. If you use a multi tool to clean out the moist dry rot and use the liquid Rot Stop you will end up with a longer lasting repair.
If the hole is all the way through, use the multi tool to create a place for new wood or install a mesh screen to hold the Bondo. Make sure to use the dry rot killer before the Bondo. You can also use a good deck primer after the rot killer.
Thanks for the tips Matt 👍
A specific "rot killer" isn't necessary if you remove all the existing rot. I also dry the cavity completely with a heat gun which kills any remaining bacteria or algae and leaves dry fibers for the BONDO to cling to. I have repairs to Victorian scroll work that were done twenty years ago and they have never peeled or failed.
I know this an older video. I'm building a deck and this video caught my eye. I didn't know bacteria was a thing in a knot hole, that it would keep deteriorating. Great tip. The bondo is another great tip. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Scott, you're a superior instructor. No one's videos are as worthwhile as yours. Yours are the only ones anyone needs to watch for tutelage on home repairs.
Thanks Dean! Appreciate the kind words 👍
I used PC Woody 2 part wood epoxy with very good results on my old outdoor deck last year. I removed the dry rot and let it dry thoroughly before I painted on several coats of wood hardener. I let the hardener dry thoroughly, before I filled with epoxy. My deck has a solid color stain so I finished with a coat of stain which blends it all in. The epoxy is holding up very well in a harsh climate even with constant wet weather and freeze, thaw cycles this Winter.
Good to hear, this is what I am doing also - applying the wood hardener first and then the epoxy. Hoping to extend the life of my deck a few more years before replacing. Winter's can be really harsh here in NH on decks. This video also was very helpful.
@@samv7487 I'm in Pennsylvania so I'm even more confident that it should work well for you in NH
My experience with Bondo: 1) Mix small batches, smaller than you think you need. For most cases, I would say no ,ore than a glop about 1" in diameter at a time. For larger holes, repeat as necessary as opposed to making a bigger batch. 2) Be conservative with the hardener. The more that you add, the quicker it will set. Adding less will provide more open (workable) time, but it will take a bit longer to cure. With some practice, you will figure out what works for you. 3) Once the Bondo gets a bit gummy, it is usually too late and unworkable. 4) Always work in in well ventilated space; the fumes are really bad. Bondo is great stuff, but it does take some practice to make it work well.
Thank you for this! We have a small hole, sort of a splintered off spot on the side of one board in the middle of our deck from our movers and I was afraid we were going to have to replace the whole board. It’s also on the edge of the board so thank you so much for the tip on contouring with tape! I feel much more confident on fixing this now. This is the first time I’ve ever took on a project like this on my own. Restoring the entire thing and it was a bit daunting at first.
Wearing gloves, I knead a mixture of saw dust and PL Premium in a disposable tray. I mix in enough saw dust so it is not super sticky to my gloves I can even shape it to make the end of a board for example. You have plenty of working time to use it. At least 30 minutes. It appears to be harder than wood and it has not rotted even after a couple of years of exposure when I applied it on my deck. One 10 oz tube of PL will make a lot of this putty like material.
I absolutely want to say that this video is excellent and explains very well how to do it and that I am really grateful for this level of detail.
I have used this and I still use it. I filled minor natural wood cracks to prepare my new picnic table for stain and clear coat. My table is 10' long using (5) 2" X 12" boards. I have not had a problem with knot hole filling but I have saw 'aged' shrinkage of material in cracks I filled, requiring another spread to fill them cracks. I do like it and will continue to use it, but, remember, it's not bullet proof. Also, as I see the morning dew beading on top of my finished filler, I now wonder how it handles the stain. They state on the can that it does well with stain, but, we will see. Great video man!
I've used wood filler inside of Kitchen cupboards that the previous owner had drilled holes in the shelves (?) Light sanding then white paint. Now when visitors are looking for a glass or cup they can't see the damaged areas. I put tape under the cabinet to hold the filler until dry, then removed it.
I have tried all sorts but still feel old sawdust and PVA glue works really well,
Mate I like the cost-effectiveness of this, but I experienced terrible "shrinkage" problems with the fill🥲. Roughly what ratio are you getting good result with, please?
Fantastic product. I used it on a couple of outdoor door jambs and worked great. I used much less hardening paste though and gave lot of time to work with. Great video. Thank you for sharing
Timely video. Today I’m going to use Bondo wood rot repair, then the Bondo wood filler on a few areas of my shed tongue and groove siding boards. I’m only going to mix very small batches and use less hardener. Wish me luck! Update: for my project , this dries too quickly. I hate sanding! Nextime I’ll use something that allows me to work at smoothing it out before drying.
Best of luck on the project 👍
I’m rewatching this video. Thank you again for a great explanation
I made the mistake of mixing too much hardener for bondo, for longer working times, use less, maybe 1/3 less, and ensure you mix well.
I use automotive bondo for dry rot and plugging knots. I have a mailman that wears spikes on his shoes in winter, grrrr! what I find handy is using playing cards to apply the product to the required areas. No clean up just throw them away!
THANK YOU , I am doing this now. Going to harden the rotten wood with wood petrifier and then fill with minwax appoxy. and then paint with Cabot Deck Over to save the old wood. wish me luck.
The Bondo, and other polyester wood fillers don't extend project time, but in most cases I've used epoxy wood fillers. They have performed a bit better over time, for my projects.
I've used P.C. Woody with very good results.
Thanks for the feedback!
Good tips and thanks for sharing. I am repairing a few rotted parts and filling a few bolt holes from the old gazebo that was taken down. I will put wood hardener first over the rotted wood and then do this. Thanks for showing. I have used Bondo on my countertop before I did a 2part epoxy finish - great stuff.
Awesome video! The two part bond is a great filler to use.
Kudos, Scott, that you show how to first try to repair and not replace! I've had good results on my deck with Bondo and Durham's water putty. Durham's is a lot easier to mix up, more working time, and doesn't have the chemical smell. Cheaper too, so I would try that first. Neither one takes stain well so be prepared for a visible patch. But it's a deck. I also have a box of System3 RotFix that I plan to use on a rotting window sill under a set of expensive wood casement windows that weren't properly flashed. Looks like a good product, epoxy -based. I've not used it yet but it might be another option.
Durham is a indoor wood filler .
@@cynthiayee5116 thank you, good to know
@@cynthiayee5116 Plastic repair material in powder form.
Will not shrink, stays put.
Use to repair walls, furniture, woodwork or plaster
Clean with water while still soft, sand or chip off after dry. Interior/exterior use
re: "wood hardener" liquid products that you brush on before patching. It's a stabilizer and, in my experience, don't expect it to harden any soft / decaying wood.
Nice one Scott. One of my outdoor beams has some dry rot and I've been using plain old Bondo for years. Come summer I'm using your method. Seems like it will work better.. VERY useful video. Thanks a bunch!
Outdoor beam? Beams generally have a structural purpose and a cosmetic fix to hide a underlying problem is probably not the best solution.
@@taddmcmichael9061 You are right. I came to my senses and had the beam replaced a week after my "fix". Thanks.
@@kersi-sandiego6036 That is good, those kind of fixes stink monetarily. Mother nature can be a b*tch on how she treats our investments.
Nice job, happy you showed how to use the bondo & also how fast it can set up!
I hadn't thought of the Bondo wood filler. I've found out that the general purpose Bondo is not the best way to go. With the wood contracting and expanding the GP Bondo will a lot of times eventually come out.
Automotive BONDO does not contract and expand very much at all...it is the wood that expands and contracts. The wood expands and contracts due to moisture, rather than temperature. You can prevent movement of the wood by insuring that it is sealed on ALL sides with a good paint or stain.
genius tip for the curbed parts of the board !!
Gorilla wood filler...doing a freshly installed deck, but wood has a lotta knots, so gonna treat them all, the deck needs to cure till NEXT spring before it gets painted, so I hope it all goes good, couldnt afford really nice deck boards, so gonna do what I gotta do! Thank you for the how to, sorta same as what I thought, but double checking myself, I'll be 70 in July, have done a ton of decks thru the years, and lumber quality this time on fixed income, deck is 64'x24.5' Not a little project to pull up and replace all my decking, redo stringers, steps that span a 16' drop to ground...not an easy deal...and my lumber supplier had wood that had SO MANY KNOTS, geez...but doing what I can with what I have!
thanks for sharing this project with us! Keep it up!
For sure, thanks for the support 👍
Great video: told me exactly how to use the product without a lot of preliminaries or extraneous jibberjabber. Thanks!
I'll have to bookmark this video for next year. I've already stained my deck this year, but I never thought about filling in knots that way.
See you next year 👍
Durhams rock hard putty works well also. Mix with half water and exterior carpenters glue. Also has very fast setup time.
How's the bondo holding up? Usually bondo is hard and doesn't move with the deck that expands and contracts
I swear you have a video for all of my house issues lol
Shortly, I will be trying my hand at repairing my wood decking, and will be using your video as a tutorial. One question though. Can you advise on the best way to clean a plastic putty knife after use?
A have a similar sized hole on a rounded wood floor board. I was going to use loctite with their expandable material but now that I see this wood filler, I think I'll try this first. Hopefully it will stand against summer heat
Nice video, but wondering how Bondo worked with the stain ? Does it color match better with a solid color stain ? Many Thanks...
How does Bondo take finishes? Paint I can guess on my own but what about sealers and/or translucent stains?
Nice. Working on mine now and found this very helpful. I have exterior wood filler and was wondering how well it would work and also the different apps. for it in this project.
It actually chisels really well if you have a good chisel and good hammer.
I used the Bondo for some rafter repair, I too was VERY surprised how quickly it set up.....much faster than the automotive version.
Yeah, no time to mess around for sure.
It's not for structural repair, only cosmetic.
Looks great!
Thanks!
yup, Bondo is the way to go. Knots give it character and a story though.
Excellent job thanks for the video
Great video! Very good tips and clear instruction. Thank you so much!
I'm not a pro by no means but I seen what I call rookie mistake. Ever seen clear coats where you see the filler smudges around nail holes. It's cuz people don't apply the first coat of sealer first then fill the nail holes/cracks. The filler gets in the grain and keeps the coating from soaking into the wood. Especially bad with like the old wood you are dealing with in the video. I bet anything there was a big wood filler blotch there around the repair. My suggestion do a light sand brush the coating on around where you are fixing then Bondo if you don't want to wait until after first coat. I usually take it a little further and run some painters tape along the edges of the crack I'm filling to make sure the filler stays in the imperfection and not in the grain. But never before a first coat.
Just my technique.
Couldn't help but add my 2 cents I was cringing the whole time with the wide dried out grain that was getting filled with bondo.
My question is also how do you color match this to the rest of your deck?
What would you recommend on on 6 x 6 decking posts that are splitting/checking?
Just got my deck replaced about a month or so ago. It was way past time to do it. The existing wood deck was just a mess.
Hi, On the 3M Bondo website, some users have pictures of this stuff not taking stain. Their experts replied that it doesn't look the same as wood after you stain it. Did you stain it, and how did it come out?? I dont want splotchy results.
There might be a health risk to sanding pop. Older pressure treatments used arsenic.
That’s fantastic. I have done a good amount of deck repair over the last few years. My go to was pc woody (pc products) but the set time is lengthy. I am
Thinking about bondo given the extra strength and quick set times so I can cover more quicker. How does this bondo stack up compared to tue pc woody for example?
I am using mini wax stainable wood filler
Can someone provide details on how to add color to Bondo Wood Filler to match my deck? I plan to waterproof the deck - will not paint/stain my deck - so mixing up the Bondo Wood Filler with color to match my wood is the goal. I know it won't be a perfect match. But have already applied the Bondo Wood Filler to some areas as a test, and the color difference between the bondo and deck is huge and ugly looking - can clearly see the patched areas. Thanks, Matt
I also have a deck that is about 2 years old and we stained it 2 years ago and I have a lot of imperfections. Lots of boards with tons of lines and cracks. I guess it was a bad year for the lumber
Would you suggest that product for my situation? I also live in a country that is extremely hot and extremely cold.
What are your thoughts? My deck looks like it's 30 years old. Not cool
Great video for the project I have.
Does it stain? Would something like odies oil work on it?
I would have used Minwax Wood Hardener prior to filling it up with bondo.
I only use Minwax products. No! Not affiliated with the company in any way, shape or form.
Durham's Rock Hard. Difficult to sand so make it as smooth as you can upon application.
Compared to Bondo, Durham's is much less expensive, easier to apply smoothly, and gives you more time to work with it. However, Durham's is resistant to staining and is better suited for painting.
very helpful. thanks!
Think this would work on knot holes in a fence?
what did it look like when you sealed/stained the areas that you bondo’d?
What if driveway sealers are used? It will be flexible and potentially filling up the void with summer heat...
Excellent video
This is really helpful! Thanks.
If the hole goes all the way through what should I use? This is a round piece of scrap wood I want to use for a sign. It would need to accept paint.
Can i use this to fill in screw holes on my decking? I messed up and had to adjust the rim joist so all the boards that were screwed into it need to be moved slightly
You used way too much hardner in there. Only a pea sized amount is necessary for that much bondo. Not surprised it hardened within a couple minutes...
What is the specific product you used to fill? I have used A specific outdoor wood filler but it’s still shrunk. Does that shrink at all I live in the Midwest with a lot of rain and snow
I hope you use a solid stain. Bonds does not take stain in a semi transparent. If you have faux skills it would be ok.
I think this Bondo Wood Filler is stainable and paintable. We shall see 🤞
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes to a degree. Try to stain it. Most times it looks like a solid color. You can blend it with skills. I have done it multiple times.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Just trying to help.
Thanks for answering my question before I asked it. What do you mean by Blend it with skills?
@@germainemarzen997 You can do a graining tool to do faux wood look.
How long do you recommend I wait for using this on a new deck to fill in some knots and some saw gouges left by the builder during construction. We are in Georgia, so it’s hot and the PT wood should dry pretty fast. what are your thoughts.
Thanks, great video and channel!
For a difference between the carbondo and this wood Bondo because I've experienced and filled wood holes with carbondo and over the years in New England weather what expands and contracts and the repair works its way out does this Bondo wood product expand and contract with the wood or is it just like the auto Bondo ....what's the difference??¿
Car Bondo is red or pink and use this on painted decks ...this wood Bondo is yellowish Brown and use this product on non-painted decks... can't tell you about staining or absorption of sealant or long-term effects of products . Wood Bondo is just as hard as the car Bondo.... is that just the only difference ? because I know ,I've worked with both and I've never went back to see if either product came out and no one's ever bitched ,Sooooooo?????????
PC-Products PC-Woody Wood Repair Epoxy Paste, Two-Part
Great advice.
Thanks!
Would you do same w gorilla tape if knot was going through wood?
Will this product work on a bigger hole area 3” x 4” . Will be sanded professionally afterwards and new finish
Helpful info. Thank you. 👍🏻
No problem 👍
thanks, for the tip on the duck tape and much hardener to use
Good video. Thank you.
Great video
Nice video thank you
Now does this take deck stain good or do you really notice it?
Thanks for this video. Please, is the wood filer you used a water prove?
Your welcome, yeah it is approved for interior and exterior use 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thank you for the reply, and I'm going to buy the water approved wood filler to use.
Best regards
What if the hole does go all the way through, do you have any suggestions?
What happens if you don't use the hardener at all? I don't want the time crunch involved with the product hardening so quickly. Will it harden over say a 24 hour period?
It will never cure(harden). It is a two part product A+B. If you use just one part you are not using the complete product. Generally people use too much hardener. If you too small amount of hardener may take an hour or more but it will eventually harden.
Is this like traditional bondo
How’s that makita sander? I have every tool but not the sander with makita
I am definitely not a pro when it comes to sanders but man that thing is handy 👍👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs ok have to grab one
Really clear video, gives me the confidence to try it
What if you have a knot hole that goes all the way through?
Can you forgo the cream hardener?
Can we do it on the fence too. Thanks
Bondo works well indoors but using Bondo outdoors With the weather from dry to wet the wood will expands and contracts And causing the bongo to eventually crack the best thing to use is flexible wood Two-part epoxy Especially if you’re just going to paint over the repair
Well that's only with the bongo. See this here is bondo. Its much better
Looks like would easier to work if more water added to the mix, its would be more creamy paste.. Then before its completely dry can use sponge to polish.
I'm surprised jalapeño solutions didn't turn up at the mere mention of Bondo...
Lol.....
What is the strength of the bonds compared to say “fir” or standard deck wood? 2x the strength, etc.?
I tired this with my threshold and didn’t hold. Maybe I didn’t do it right
Was this the first time you treated this deck?
We just installed a new deck at our lake house and have yet to treat it for this season..
It is 😞 should probably seal thing up after about 1-3 months letting the boards dry out a bit. It’s been about 18 months for this one.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yeah its probably best to do it right about 1-3 months in but for us we haven't been able to go back down there for a while so probably going to have to just treat it as soon as we can. Also why patch up the knots in the first place? sometimes I think they look cool, the bondo doesn't look as good in certain situations to me
@@itzNickyJayBeats
If you don’t patch the knots any openings and cracks will hold water and lead to wood rot.
I like using the point of a 5-in-1 tool rather than a utility knife.
I have fibreglass decks on my home and at the cabin and they wear like iron and there is little maintenance.
Need to use a wood putty that matches the wood color. This will stand out like a sore thumb.
Can I assume screw holes on the deck can be filled as well, mixing a small amount of course.
You didn’t pin the top comment fillers.